Yah, it's handy to know that perception is 99.99% of reality. The Universe will be inclined to move in the direction of your thoughts. On the other hand: If you argue for your limitations, guess what? You win, they're yours!.
This guy has to be the COOLEST dude on RUclips. Never said a bad word, never appeared to be frustrated, ALWAYS POSITIVE, ALWAYS GOOD SPIRITED, ALWAYS SMILING. We need more people like Chuck in this world. You inspire people, please keep posting Sir, I'll watch every video you make.......
Saw this just now. I come from a cattle ranch SE of Orlando. We jetted down wells in the 50s and 60s for windmills for cattle. Used galv pipe in 8' lengths. Pump was a PTO pump on tractor. Water source was 3 55 gal drums of warer. For 2 in well, wr used 1/2 in pipe to flush down inside the 2". No extra pressure nozzle on 1/2" pipe. Once into water cavity, used pitcher pump to be sure plenty of good water. Then built windmill with a large cylinder. Almost never had to use well point and wells worked fine for 50 to 60 yrs and more. Every 3 or 4 yrs would service the mill gearbox and check leathers in cylinder. Low maint and no electrcity required.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I want a 2" pipe for a diaphram 24v pump. Using the method you described with 1/2 inch pipe tonclear out the 2" sounds good to me!
I essentially did the same thing when I was a kid almost 50 years ago with a garden hose. I started pushing this hose into the ground and the water would push the dirt out and I pushed the hose even further deeper. Grandma came out and asked what I was doing. I'm not sure she knew the extent of how far down I pushed the hose(probably 20 feet) but she made sure to tell me that I'd better get it out of there before Grandpa got home.... Good memories!!!
I worked on oil well drilling rigs for 15 years and I became tool pusher and did that for 2 years until I hurt my back pretty seriously. I understand the Hydraulics of what you're using there but you really should have kept that 4 inch above ground level about one foot depending on whether it is a flood zone or not, to keep your ground water from getting in your well and you need a cap on that 4-in pipe also. That is no problem you just bring your plumbing out the side of your 4-in, probably something you may want to think about, it's very important. maybe dump a little bit of cement around your 4-in to ensure you have less possibility of groundwater contaminating your well. But good job my friend. My only advice is to start with that pump sooner.
I always wanted to dig my very own oil well ❤😁 🤣 Until then, myself and others have to rely on the gubberment to provide even water-(heavily polluted with addatives, chemicals and contaminants ☹ ) But seriously, good points you've made in your comment. 👍
I agree 100%. While he was successful in "getting water" this is absolutely an "irrigation only" setup in its current form. Based on the pressure (PSI) and flow (GPM), I can't imagine it being very good at that either. Overall I applaud the effort (not a one person job) and respect him showing us how "not to" in the first half (ok, 75%) of the video. It's just as important to understand what not to do as it is what to do. The most important factor in "quickly and easily" digging a well is living in a state with a favorable water table (Florida) very close to a large body of water (St Johns River). Works every time (especially during the rainy season). For context, if you call a contractor to dig your well in the state of Florida they will tell you that you have to dig/drill to about 150'-250' to reach the Florida Aquifer where the water is treatable (carbon filters, decalcifiers, etc.) and then potable (drinkable). Lastly, if your well is anywhere near farms be sure to have the water tested, very likely it's contaminated.
Chuck to the rescue Chuck is a just a wizard when it comes to moving water around to where you want it to go. Whether it's a well or landscape drainage. He's a real artist and it can do person and just a great person to be around.
Thanks!..much thanks for sharing...check valve and little slits..I will use 20' of 2"..I already know it works..paid $800..soft sand ..water at 6'..when inspector came..said too close to septic..prices now up to $1200..over 3 years...FIGURE CARL..got on utube..saw your show..really a blessing sir...😅
How do you address the problem of gravel before reaching water? Does the water jet push the stones aside? What if it were a big stone? Can u push it aside? Just askingg.
@@appledrains, by sharing your knowledge, explaining the materials you’re using, others can accomplish it from there. If you aren’t able to travel around helping those in need, others watching this channel can. Thank you for staying positive and sharing wisdom!
We don't need to give water or food to people living in Africa, we need to give them U-Hauls. When I was in Africa, I kneeled down and picked up some "soil" and showed it to the locals. "You see this? Know what this is? It's sand. Know what it's going to be a hundred years from now? SAND! You live in a freaking desert!! Ahhhh! Ahhhhhh!! Ahhhhhhhh!!!" They were not amused.
One of the neatest video's I've ever watched....I'm a DYI person, retired, HVAC is still my trade and I Learned something today, that makes me feel good.... So patient a man, so clear a video...My earnest thanks to you my man...Truly, thank you.
This dude is so chill he is seriously awesome. He's the Bob Ross of well digging. And over here about every 10 ft were gonna install a happy check valve
I did this many years ago in coastal North Carolina with 2” x10’ galvanized pipe with a sand point and check valve at the end. I wired a cheap 50’ garden hose with a makeshift nozzle to the outside of the pipe so it sprayed down, attached the hose to a water source and started pushing it down. When the water stopped coming out of the hole I knew I was in the aquifer. Went additional 10’ down, hooked up a cheap centrifugal pump and started to water the lawn. High pressure water and fancy nozzles are not necessary. My nozzle was a piece of 1/2” metal tubing jammed into the end of the hose with the end flattened. Keep it simple.
I have helped my dad put in wells many times for lawn sprinklers. He alway drove a galvanized 4” casing using. 3’ length of railroad track with a 1” x36” galvanized pipe welded to it. You picked it up and dropped it to drive the casing then flushed it out using the same procedure as you used. Brought back a lot of good memories for me Thanks
@@prophet1782 somewhere between 40’ to 60’you will find water in central Florida that’s good for irrigation And usually it’s good for drinking also you just need to have it tested. Florida has several underground rivers deep under ground these are great for human consumption. I have never put in or helped put in a well that that failed to provide water.
In Australia we connect a device called aslurpy to a garden hose or pump and feed it down the 100ml casing ,by adrain tube it brings all cut debris and sand up to ground as casing sinks allow slurpy to follow run drain through a tank strainer and when gravel is sighted correct level has been achieved allow slurpy to create a void at end of casing then retrieve it (slurpy) lower spearpoint down casing to approx 300ml to 600 ml below end of casing and connect to pump
Did that with a 2-1/2” pipe and a small water pump. Went down 58 ft and the pipe dropped 2 ft! Hauled it up and started pumping water into it with a half inch hose, to remove the sandy sediment. All of a sudden, we’re getting more water out than we put in. It came nice and clean after about 15-20 minute. Stopped the pump and secured the pipe with grout. Had to run a line out and cap the well so we could finish with clean the cavity. Once we got clear water, tested ok, hooked to the house line and away it went. That was back in the 70s.
Congratulations on your well. This is the 1st time I have been on your channel so my question is more of an observation. Palmettos are a surefire tell that your land is "wetlands" prone to flooding. I hope your, "tiny house" cottage is being built with the known " flood plane" or high water mark. I built a camp in just such an area and was not too fortunate and it succumbed to hurricane caused back water flooding. I rebuilt but I put it on an array of large plastic foam filled barrels. Additionally I sunk 4 very sturdy post, one on each corner with metal rings made from some 6" scrap pipe. This system allows up and down movement to allow for 25' of flood water. Wells can be ruined, at least the pump can, by flooding also so I would give it a fighting chance by an elevated well house. Not preaching doom, just wise preparation, something living through well over 7 decades of Louisiana hurricanes and floods sort of forced at least a modicum of education (school of Hard Knocks University with PHD in hard headedness) on mother nature.
To keep the pressure nozzle from getting stuck, put a section of steel pipe on the end so it can't get outside the pipe. You should let the pump run wide open without shutting the pump off. You are just filling the pressure tank with silt. Not a good idea. You can also use poly pipe instead of pvc for your well point.
Love your attitude, as soon as you said; FOUND ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD it reminds me of me. Not every thing has to come from AMAZON, HOME DEPOT, LOWES, or CABELAS. I always say, "the wheel has already been invented all we have to do is know how to use it." Gracias great job bro.
Any time you're jetting, if you can add compressed air to the jetting water, it will increase the pressure, and volume and help float the jetted material out. We've used this method to pull out timber piles from an old bridge 12" timber piles, sunk 40' into bay bottom. And I've used it at home to jet in timber piles for a bulkhead, using water from my faucet (approx. 40 psi) and a small air compressor one-inch dia. PVC jet pipe, in sandy soil with a little clay.
It's amazing to me that you hit ground water at 3', and your well will be 30 to 40'. My well here in AZ, on an aquafur, is at 600'. My well in CA is about the same. Good info, thanks for the video.
Here in S. Ga/N. Fla, it's not unusual to have ground water seeping into any hole over 3' or 4'. A trick I learned was to hand dig a 2 foot deep hole in the creek bank, about 3 feet from the creek, and after carefully dipping it out a few times and letting it settle (careful not to knock dirt in or collapse the walls), it would stay full of clean water. The creek water looked and was nasty, but the water in the hand dug well was drinkable! Yes, I did drink it occasionally, and nowadays it may have poison chemicals or heavy metals in it, but I never got sick! The book "My side of the mountain" inspired alot of exploration and experiments in my preteens, back in the '60's. What don't kill ya makes you stronger, they say. I regret that most kids have no experiences like this. Everything is virtual for them, including staying alive. They may not understand that there is no literal reset button, so they won't know how to be resourceful in a life and death situation. Dead is dead!
There are many aquifers in my area between layers of limestone. This requires heavier material and heavy pounding unfortunately. most wells in my area are around 50-75 feet. However, they are pretty much connected through the aquifers to neighboring wells. This creates a problem. There are pretty high standards in this area as to the procedures used to prevent cross contamination. One of our neighbors decided to DIY a well to supply his hogs with water and ended up contaminating the water supply to around 50 farms in the area. This comes in the form of E-coli ( coliform ) bacteria that is found in the top soil almost everywhere. In this area there are requirements for the installer to take special care to wipe down with chlorine any pipe segments inserted into the hole or well piping to prevent such contamination. We had to bust through limestone to around 200 feet to get to a source of sparkling fresh water. Unfortunately, the installer was not careful enough and either passed through and dragged down a layer of the contaminated aquifer, or introduced coliform from the surface. The end result was, about two weeks later, the fresh sparkling water started to smell foul ( sulfur smell), and was contaminated with coliform e-coli bacteria. Since it was an aquifer source, ( underground stream ), and not just ground water seepage in sand and clay, the entire aquifer became polluted with a bacterial bloom. Normally, in a well like the one you dug the problem can usually be resolved by back flushing with a lot of chlorine. In our case however, that would not practically stop the problem due to the huge volume of water that was contaminated. So after several thousands spent we ended up with the same problem no matter what we tried. Spraying down the ground where you are digging with chlorine and laying down your pipes on clean plastic sheeting is probably a good idea. Coliforms are bacteria that are always present in the digestive tracts of animals, including humans, and are found in their wastes. They are also found in plant and soil material. Can you drink well water with coliform bacteria? Don't drink the water without treating it until you find and fix the problem. Coliform is a large group with many different kinds of bacteria. Most Coliform bacteria are harmless. Various types of Coliform live in the soil and even on surfaces in your home, but they do not occur naturally in groundwater. Is coliform harmful to humans? Most coliform bacteria are not harmful. However, some can make you sick. A person that has been exposed to these bacteria may have an upset stomach, vomiting, fever, or diarrhea. Children and the elderly are more at risk from these bacteria. How do you get rid of coliforms? How Do I Remove Coliform Bacteria From My Drinking Water? The water can be treated using chlorine, ultraviolet treatment system or ozone, all of which act to kill or inactivate E. coli. Systems using surface water sources are REQUIRED to disinfect to ensure that all bacterial contamination is inactivated, such as E-coli. Will shocking a well get rid of coliform? When done properly, shock chlorination will kill all the bacteria existing in a well. A recent Penn State study of wells contaminated by coliform bacteria found that shock chlorination and installation of a sanitary well cap successfully removed the bacteria for one year in 15 percent of the wells. ( note: low success rate and need for repeated treatments ) Is coliform and E. coli the same? E. coli is a sub-group of fecal coliform. When a water sample is sent to a lab, it is tested for total coliform. If total coliform is present, the sample will also be tested for either fecal coliform or E. What diseases can coliform cause? Although most strains of E. coli are harmless, others can make you sick. Some kinds of E. coli can cause diarrhea, while others cause urinary tract infections, respiratory illness and pneumonia, and other illnesses. What are the symptoms of coliform infection? Symptoms and Causes Stomach pains and cramps. Diarrhea that may range from watery to bloody. Fatigue. Loss of appetite or nausea. Vomiting. Low fever < 101 °F/ 38.5 °C (not all people have this symptom). What happens if you put too much bleach in well? Image result If you put too much bleach in your well, it can destroy the good bacteria found in the well, which can be a significant problem! The company also says that you should dilute the bleach with water so the pipes do not get ruined. Can you boil water with coliform? Boiling water kills coliform bacteria, but does not remove nitrate. Do NOT boil water with both coliform and nitrate. What temperature do coliforms grow? The growth of coliform and all bacteria was rapid at 55-60 ° F. Which is, in the U.S. the average underground temperatures. Again, I cannot overemphasize the importance of taking extra special care to prevent this contamination when drilling a water well intended to supply drinking water to humans or other animals. These bacteria types are not normally found in normal ground water, and it only takes one to ruin an otherwise perfect well.
That is exactly why they have rules for drilling wells and should be done by a licensed driller. I don't care if you kill yourself but you have not right to kill your neighbors
I'll make a suggestion. Leave the four inch pipe about 4 to 6 inches above ground level. This will keep all the sand from falling the pipe as you drill making drilling much easier. Try it. Works. Keep drilling!!! Ed
you spent a lot of time developing a very good RUclips. One item in your planning and jetting process that I missed mention of, is the fact that a shallow well pump as you have is good for a maximum of 25 feet depth of water. And that’s with a perfectly good pump.
Adjust ur pressure switch higher kick on at 30psi off at 50psi and make sure ur bladder tank has air in it to carry ur pressure and flow usually the air leaks out that's why they throw them away but great vid!
One of the best presentation on how to make it happen i have seen. Have my rye on a peice of land needing water and electricity. This makes it all work easily. Thank you.
I enjoyed your video. I drilled a couple of shallow wells about 20 feet deep *many* decades ago using a bit that I think my uncle made using a piece of 1.5" or so steel pipe with teeth welded to it and 3/4" galvanized pipe for the drill stem. We ran water down it from a garden hose and I'm not sure whether the bit did more of the cutting or the water did. I like your method better, although mine would be able to handle rocks or roots easier. I drilled the well, then my dad pulled the bit and drill stem out and put a casing in the bore hole. I wish I remembered more about that process. We used those wells for irrigation. Other people have commented about having the well casing above the grade so I don't need to mention that. Your well is over 30' deep so your pump is working really hard just to lift the water at 0 GPM; you are right at the limit to what a suction pump can lift. That pump you found looks like a jet pump; those can go over 100' if you use them in jet mode; you might want to reconfigure it to operate as a jet pump instead of a simple suction pump. But I'm not sure you can do that with just a single pipe.
Now, I am confused. Cool stuff. I’m on a well @165’. Works good now for fifty years, “getting ready”. I’m told a new one lasts 15 years. Haha, probably smells like rice too. Cheers
@@alexbernal4988 I neve said he was pumping 30 feet, I said the well was >30'. The limit from a suction pump is about 25 feet or so, but the water level is probably not going to be all the way at the bottom. I'm not going to watch the video again just to see if the water table is really 3' from the surface. Not sure what your problem is.
The well is 30 feet deep. That doesn't mean the water level is 30 feet deep. I was assuming the water is *near* the bottom (20 feet or so), otherwise why dig the well so deep. As you approach 25', the pump is working hard just to lift the water up the pipe; a jet pump is more efficient. And if the water level is over about 25 feet down, you *need* a jet pump or a submersible. I've never claimed to be an expert but I do have some experience with this (mostly in east Texas where the water's about 10 feet down) 🙂
Sir you have no idea how much you have helped me, with this video. You unleashed an unstoppable self-reliant homeowner when you said "if you think you can do it then you can do it". This comes shortly after i had been crying and praying to God to give me the ability to maintain my property by myself because i don't have a lot of money to pay and no way can i locate as much as one plumber had quoted at once. And i would have to get matrrials and do all prep work for him to replace my pump or it would cost even more. If i have to do all of that then i might as well fix it myself. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!
Glad it all worked out fine :-) I heard about this way of drilling over 30 years ago :-) I was a sales agent for Johnson Screens , still have their handbook :-) I know this is all done on a budget , yet the well point is , rather primitive , yet miles ahead of the hacksaw slots used in similar attempts here 30 years ago . Once the well tip has bottomed , use water to loosen fine sand and form a gravel pack . Would be nice to know for how long you are able to pump at the initial volume . Nice to have a nearby well to use for water , wonder how much you actually used :-) Anyway , nice to see something that I was involved in many years ago . Just a thought , if one can afford a Johnson /similar well screen , well life will be extended at lower pumping costs . Have a nice day :-)
A crew put in dozens of wells down our road this year to dewater for a sewer dig. They had a 20' steel pipe hooked to a high pressure pump with drilling fluid. Wells went in in about two minutes. You need special equipment to do this right.
mud pump add on big 3" outer pipe with a T and a cap that seals well enough to center pipes. drill saw hole in cap for pipe to fit. use pressure washer to stir up sand and mud pump to suck up as much entrained sand in water before it settles out. turbulence and water velocity are you friends. Super cool video. Fun virtual trip to the woods.
Wow! I’m impressed! Just proves if there is a Will then there is a way! Good job my friend!! My mother paid $5 grand in 1994 to have her well dug. I have the receipt.. And now they want over $25 grand. If not more to dig a well. Haven’t really priced it lately. But when I look at the receipt for $5 grand.. I just wonder why !! Because we all know wages have not gone up like that.. We should not need 2 people in the family working to survive.. it is really sad.. I feel bad for young people today.. getting price gouged at every angle.. my mother was a stay at home mom.. my dad took good care of his family.. He wasn’t lazy. That’s what men are supposed to do. Not anymore they have made it impossible for the hard working man.
I put my shallow well down 26 feet with a similar process using a regular trash pump (mud pump) instead of jet pump. Using a bit of bentonite in your drill water helps keep the hole walls from seizing on your drill pipe.
Great video. The best part is this guys attitude. He knows he will be successful in this endeavor and methodically takes the steps to get there. Really nice work, Sir.
Love the video and your positive outlook. I learned a great deal on how I too can install a new shallow well for our next project. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Pretty ingenious I love this- live in Northeast nevada- cost of a new well here if yours quits recovering is about 30k presently- this would be an excellent alternative to depen my well or drill new
Need that pressure to be more like 50. If that is a shallow well you may consider pumping to a storage tank so that you work off the storage and the little well can just fill the storage as it can little by little
Storage tank is a must if renting out tiny house. Think of four people doing back to back showers, toilet use etc . The air B&B will refund if they complain. The air B&B rating will be lowered too much to a point to get removed from listing.
@@uGoGop if they plan on using this as potable water in the rental, they are in for a rude awakening. There is no way this well is legal. People scoff at public health regulations but we have them for a reason, and pumping ground water from this shallow of a well is almost guaranteed to be all kinds of contaminated.
U are really hard working n have experience in achieving the target . U have to have gutts n hard labour in doing so as I have seen many time in making French drains, the horizontal drain by digging 2- 3 ft with fabric n stones n covering it up . The results great. By doing 4- 6 upright drains u can get work done n happy with low cost n much easier way. Just like me u have to have techniques one way or the other to get the job done. Thanks
I used the drive point system 1 1/4 pipe with heavy duty couplings and high impact dope. hit water at 35 ft went an extra 5 ft . at the peak of the dry season. took about 4 hrs of hard ramming and put a 1 1/4 ball value just below the hand pump. best 28 bucks ever spent, no priming needed . the system is fast and not to hard, if you use the correct tools and materials. don't cheat. if you don't know about the drive point system , research it. cheap and fast.
You can clean out an old well by pumping air out of a compressor. I used a shop rated compressor with three eights hose and as the sir bubbles up the sand comes out. It worked fine I. Four inch casing and took the fine sand out to eighty feet. You will need a big gas powered compressor that will power a breaking hammer for six inch casing.
That was amazing and I am so glad that the pump they were throwing away worked , you do suck great work ,thanks Chuck I used your methods to fix my mom's garage everytime it rained water wood come in and at one point there was three inches of water over the whole floor I did everything you say to do and the water problem is fixed when it rains no leaks not even a drop ,no moisture no mold , perfectly dry the way it should be and that made my mom very happy and me to thanks Chuck for your videos I am forever grateful ,God Bless you and your family
ok what did he say, to dig a drainage trench around it .. ? dig around lay some drainage pipe and then pea rock around that and fill w/sand, dirt.. ? please do tell ..
I talked to a driller in Cleveland Texas, he said it would cost $8200.00 to drill! My property is very close to the Trinity River and Sam Lake so in my opinion I won't have to go down very far to reach water, maybe 20-30 feet hopefully. The driller said that the property I bought (.71 acres) was in a place called Trinity Valley. He said it is in a flood zone. I will travel to my place for the first time after x-mas and check the last time this area had a flood. I think the water is close here, not far down. In this area he said the water is calcium and iron, I guess a rusty color but I will need a filter. I will look for a water line on the trees to determine if a flood has happened. This was an inspiring video sir, thank you. One question I have is where can I find the materials and supplies?? You said you will list them, but where do I find your supply list? Thanks for making such a great video! Bob👍
On your pressure hose would it help to have some flags every few feet. Then you would know how deep the end of the hose is and might be able to avoid extending the hose below the end of your pipe. If you have 20 feet of pipe then when the 20 foot mark on your hose is even with the top of the pipe your tip will be as deep as you want to go. Use some colored electrical tape or even some paint to mark the hose, use alternating colors like they use on anchor chain to know how much hose you have inserted.
Hey, hi. I should have asked this question 35 years ago. I have a well on my lawn. It's not deep... 40' maybe. When we capped it, we had to set up an overflow because there was too much water flow. We tapped into the well casing about 6' below the surface, ran a hose down into the woods, and let the extra water flow away because if we didn't release the extra water, it would come up over our well casing and flood our lawns and property. The overflow pipe runs at 14 gallons per minute, non-stop for 35 years, 24/7. It has enough pressure to push water up over the roof of our home. I am 71, and finally am trying to find some solutions for all this water. I do have an absolutely fantastic drip and/or soak system around out vegetable garden and flower beds. I have a fish pond that is constantly providing fresh and clean water and oxygen. The water just won't stop. I realize that this must seem like I was blessed. I am, but I'm looking for other things to do with it .... I'm 71, not a kid anymore. Thank you
Works good in clay and sand. Here in Washington State we have glacial till. Hard to blow out 2 inch rocks. When we drilled wells we had to oversize the 1st 18', then put down a 6" steel casing and fill the area between with bentonite clay pellets. But not to do with a plastic pipe as the clay expands when wet and I've seen it crush a sch 40 - pvc 6" pipe.
I have succeeded in drilling with your method and had better results by adding an air compressor line fixed to your cutting head. This will send all material back up into the air.also put a 90 degree elbo at the top of your pipe. To assist the rotation of you cutting, attatch a wheel that slides up your pipe as it drills deeper. Air pressure is a kry factor, you are working too hard....
That free shallow well pump sounds like it is tied may work for a long time or may not but none the less cool find. Also it may be rebuild able. I would probably build a small shed (water utility shed) over the well and pump with a little extra room to store related maintenance items like oil for the pump if required etcetera
I’m so happy I had a chance to see your video, although we’re not in the same particular geographical location, I tend to be outside of Chicago due west by a couple of hours, very near a serious River you may know it, Mississippi River I don’t know they tell me it’s a good size river… L O L I just want to say thank you for posting this video. It gave me a lot of ideas. I wasn’t thinking about before, and I look forward to trying some of them to see how well they work here. I have to mention another point, your positive attitude, smiles, and general good demeanor, really brought great positive vibes to this project. You did on video for us. It comes through the video, loud and clear and I just want to tell you how much I appreciate that as I was kind of feeling, overwhelmed by everything, I’ve been reading about pumps and wells and the cost of drilling them, etc. etc.. However, once watching your video, I feel refreshed and really much more positive about this entire project I must do. I just want to say thanks again for all your efforts, patience and laughter to this point I can’t tell you how much it brought to me and my project. Thanks again my friend. I look forward to seeing other things you do just to hear your smiles and laughs… Sincerely, Jerry.
I really enjoyed the video and I love your excitement. I have the same problem with a 30 foot well, I can open the valve all the way or it runs out of water but about half or less it works great
Mine won't even run more Than 5 gallons of water before it looses prime I'm going to try a seal on the casing so suction is put on the water in the aquifers instead of just the water in the casing
I run mine into large holding tank, with float shut off, then suck from there with 1/4hp to pressure a larger tank, that way I have large amounts of water and can pressure quickly, even 2hp pump pulling from 30ftonly gets 5gpm ( 1hp in ground at 30 ft pushes 100gmp... With 1.5in outlets) but if the pressure pump is at same level as water works great. I fill 80 gallon in about 3.5 minutes from empty, but can run 6 showers, 3 sinks and 2 garden with decent pressure for 20 minutes... Forever if I don't mind low pressure to garden ( they let out most water, shower and sinks are low water flow heads)
Brilliant video on sinking pipe to make a wel, one thing that I might add to this video that would help him a lot and that wound be add some blue tape at sections of the hose so you don't get as many blowouts at the bottom of the pipe especially if you are using that method. Jmo
Love watching. First time saw how water pump installed and a new way of digging well. Very impressive. I love it. A year ago bought a small property with spring. This is a good idea. Thanks for sharing.
Love your videos,I live in Louisiana now but I used to live in Waycross Ga and put in many shallow wells. Close to how you are doing it I always connected the mud pump to the 2" and pumped out a basin then ran my 1" with a sand point
chuck i put an air hose down the center of a 2 inch pipe alongside the power washer jet, and occasionally open the air and it blows all the cuttings out the top like a oil well. its pretty cool to see how much water comes flying out the top carrying rocks and mud. then the shaft is cleaner and wont cave in so bad.
You know, you may need to go with some 10 gauge Romex or a 10 gauge extension cord. I think a 10 gauge will carry 30 amps 50 ft. and the Amps drop further. So your extension cord if it gets hot while the pump motor is running is a good indicator and will weaken the pump motor and destroy it. That's something to consider. It's like running a 15 amp table saw on a 16 gauge extension cord, not a good thing!
This is all bad advise for a proper electrical connection. Even if you didn't have a 16 gauge extension cord and plugged a 15 amp table saw into a general use branch circuit outlet directly; it will most likely trip the 15 amp break you are plugged into since it's overcapacity to beginning with. I see your point here, but there are proper installation methods for hardwiring, over current protection and disconnecting. Romex outside is a bad idea
Well, well, well.......another 'hole-in-one'!!.......Great spirit you have Chuck...Going to dig our own well...Thanks for the tutorial...Very best wishes. Tony and Carolyn...
Really enjoyed you sharing your well digging adventure! Along with a 'Pump' found by the side of the road!! LOL ... am going to try doing that drilling for water in my back yard. The cost of City water to grow a garden isn't cost effective anymore! It's like buying Gas for the car to go fishing. Ya catch 3 fish and they cost more in the gas you pay then the fish is worth! Takes the fun out of it....Thanks again for the great Video! :^)
What a fun guy to watch 😂 he reminds me of an old buddy of mine who I used to work with. Enjoying reliving those days again and now I hear his name is Chuck. That’s my old buddies name too. What da ya know😆thanks for such a great video. I’ll send it to my brother who needs to put in a well too. Great stuff
I think the location of where you dig makes a HUGE difference. Florida was formed differently than other northern states, and doesn't have as much heavy rocks, thick soil and clays..like the island videos of the people digging underground homes, is amazing, because the soil is totally different than what we have in Ohio.. NO WAY could we dig those homes here like that...and likely couldn't blast the well that easy, either..
Maybe you should try it! Maybe it’s possible! But until you try, all you can do is talk about how it can’t be done.. Just saying Try it! You might be surprised
@@appledrains We have lots of rocks, shale and about one to two feet of hard, dense clay..but I may consider trying it if and when we decide to put in a well ..I was thinking maybe a cistern would be better..
@@kellycarver2500 I'm from metro atlanta and I have a client who had to hit 500 ft for his new home! The clay and bedrock is no joke. There's a big ass pile of broken up granite near the well site. Florida is super easy dirt
@@nubianking4203 Yep, I believe it. Most ppl don't think it makes a difference, but it sure does. I dug for 3 days by hand here, and only had a kiddie pool. Need a power washer, I think. There's a foot thick layer of pure clay and loads of shale, heavy dirt and stone. He had to go 500 ft for his well?
@@appledrainsI think you just don't understand. I also live in NE Ohio and the clay is no joke. It's feet thick here. Wells are almost always in the range of 150-250 ft. deep here.
Great video. Will this method work in heavy clay soil that starts about one foot below ground level and can continue for 20 feet? Thanks again for the video.
Same request come back, maybe even video it For a heavier clay soil or similar perhaps glue a straight pipe connector on the end of the first pipe and rather than cut plastic teeth, epoxy in the appropriate diameter of metal pipe with your precut teeth or alternatively if a hole saw fitted the socket cut the top off and insert.
This video is so badass ! Very well put together, sincere, and full of all good things man. You have inspired me to fulfill my dream job ( bringing water to those who have none ) 😊 I am certain that some call you a saint brother... I consider you to be nominated as one anyway. Truly a noble deed providing your skills and time to help others. You sir just went to the TOP of my hero list!! 👍 🏄♂ ⛲
With a open bottom well like you just washed down you need to pump the heck out of it for a while to create a cavity at the bottom. The cavity will create a low pressure spot and the surrounding water will rush in trying to equalize the pressure, once this happens you only want to pump the well at a volume that allows clear water. The well will start pumping sand if you are trying to pump more water then the surrounding ground can handle if you continue to pump it beyond the clear water stage you will collapse the cavity and sand in your well point and check valve. You can speed up the creation of the cavity by running a water hose down beside your 1” pipe and add water to your well which will let you run your pump at full volume without worrying about sanding in your new well, as the water starts to clear up reduce the amount of water you are adding. The large cavity that you can create the more water volume you will have because the surrounding water will move to fill it up faster.
Thank you for this very informative video. It sounds as if the well is dug in a sandy area such as Florida or other coastal areas. I wonder if I would get the same results in an area such as Boquete in Panama high lands where volcanic soils are predominant.
This works in special ground rocks would prohibit this. Plus a lava flow definatly. But informative still. We here in Idaho our wells vary from 180 feet to 360 feet and all through solid lava. It's a whole different gorilla lol. Great video. I enjoyed it
Roy love watching your video's am from the UK I know this is a old video but I think the motor just needs a clean of the Armitage need cleaning with sand paper and some new brushes they don't need to be for that motor as long they fit there all the same some cheap washing machine one's might do the trick
After inserting the well point, it would also be beneficial to pump clean water back into th it for a while to flush out clay and fines surrounding the outside of the well Point screen...This would create a larger area of coarse sand to reduce drawn down issues.
I live in Lancaster County Pennsylvania most of the wells around here are between 100 and 700 ft deep I wish it were as simple as what you just did, you need a professional drilling company with heavy duty equipment to get down deep here in PA
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This guy was always in positive mode and that’s what we all need for a better success.
Armando Rios ----- I totally agree with you 100 💯%!!!! Cheers!!!
@@JuanRamirez-xw5qk
Cheers 🥃 for a better success in life, with positivism….
Oh yes, in deed, he's patience and perseverance and skills are really outstanding that its like contagious and encouraging
@@gregsantos9731
Absolutely 👍
Yah, it's handy to know that perception is 99.99% of reality. The Universe will be inclined to move in the direction of your thoughts.
On the other hand: If you argue for your limitations, guess what? You win, they're yours!.
This guy has to be the COOLEST dude on RUclips. Never said a bad word, never appeared to be frustrated, ALWAYS POSITIVE, ALWAYS GOOD SPIRITED, ALWAYS SMILING. We need more people like Chuck in this world. You inspire people, please keep posting Sir, I'll watch every video you make.......
So where's the fun in that?
You wouldn't like me very much.
Well said sir.
He is cool!
Saw this just now. I come from a cattle ranch SE of Orlando. We jetted down wells in the 50s and 60s for windmills for cattle. Used galv pipe in 8' lengths. Pump was a PTO pump on tractor. Water source was 3 55 gal drums of warer. For 2 in well, wr used 1/2 in pipe to flush down inside the 2". No extra pressure nozzle on 1/2" pipe. Once into water cavity, used pitcher pump to be sure plenty of good water. Then built windmill with a large cylinder. Almost never had to use well point and wells worked fine for 50 to 60 yrs and more. Every 3 or 4 yrs would service the mill gearbox and check leathers in cylinder. Low maint and no electrcity required.
The windmills were used to actually pump the water up and into the troughs for the animals???
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I want a 2" pipe for a diaphram 24v pump. Using the method you described with 1/2 inch pipe tonclear out the 2" sounds good to me!
@@kuzadupa185 yes, windmills pumped water up into troughs for cattle.
Super cool story thank you for sharing @jebbrown6541
I essentially did the same thing when I was a kid almost 50 years ago with a garden hose. I started pushing this hose into the ground and the water would push the dirt out and I pushed the hose even further deeper. Grandma came out and asked what I was doing. I'm not sure she knew the extent of how far down I pushed the hose(probably 20 feet) but she made sure to tell me that I'd better get it out of there before Grandpa got home.... Good memories!!!
😂😂😂
I did the same thing as a kid, except I got the hose stuck in the ground and couldn't get it out.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
lol
The laws of physics you cannot draw water more than 30 ft , you need an injector valve at the bottom of the well to push the water up
I worked on oil well drilling rigs for 15 years and I became tool pusher and did that for 2 years until I hurt my back pretty seriously. I understand the Hydraulics of what you're using there but you really should have kept that 4 inch above ground level about one foot depending on whether it is a flood zone or not, to keep your ground water from getting in your well and you need a cap on that 4-in pipe also. That is no problem you just bring your plumbing out the side of your 4-in, probably something you may want to think about, it's very important. maybe dump a little bit of cement around your 4-in to ensure you have less possibility of groundwater contaminating your well. But good job my friend. My only advice is to start with that pump sooner.
I always wanted to dig my very own oil well ❤😁 🤣 Until then, myself and others have to rely on the gubberment to provide even water-(heavily polluted with addatives, chemicals and contaminants ☹ ) But seriously, good points you've made in your comment. 👍
@@EyesWideOpen2 0
I agree 100%. While he was successful in "getting water" this is absolutely an "irrigation only" setup in its current form. Based on the pressure (PSI) and flow (GPM), I can't imagine it being very good at that either. Overall I applaud the effort (not a one person job) and respect him showing us how "not to" in the first half (ok, 75%) of the video. It's just as important to understand what not to do as it is what to do. The most important factor in "quickly and easily" digging a well is living in a state with a favorable water table (Florida) very close to a large body of water (St Johns River). Works every time (especially during the rainy season). For context, if you call a contractor to dig your well in the state of Florida they will tell you that you have to dig/drill to about 150'-250' to reach the Florida Aquifer where the water is treatable (carbon filters, decalcifiers, etc.) and then potable (drinkable). Lastly, if your well is anywhere near farms be sure to have the water tested, very likely it's contaminated.
@@EyesWideOpen2 Want to really have your mind blown regarding contamination? Have well water tested...
@@jjann54321 As in it's just as bad?
Chuck to the rescue Chuck is a just a wizard when it comes to moving water around to where you want it to go. Whether it's a well or landscape drainage. He's a real artist and it can do person and just a great person to be around.
Thanks!..much thanks for sharing...check valve and little slits..I will use 20' of 2"..I already know it works..paid $800..soft sand ..water at 6'..when inspector came..said too close to septic..prices now up to $1200..over 3 years...FIGURE CARL..got on utube..saw your show..really a blessing sir...😅
Thank you
Your video could save lives! There are people in this world who don't have water!
Lots of comments from 3rd world comments asking me to come and help! I wish the world could learn how to do this! ❗
How do you address the problem of gravel before reaching water? Does the water jet push the stones aside? What if it were a big stone? Can u push it aside? Just askingg.
@@appledrains, by sharing your knowledge, explaining the materials you’re using, others can accomplish it from there. If you aren’t able to travel around helping those in need, others watching this channel can. Thank you for staying positive and sharing wisdom!
We don't need to give water or food to people living in Africa, we need to give them U-Hauls.
When I was in Africa, I kneeled down and picked up some "soil" and showed it to the locals.
"You see this? Know what this is? It's sand. Know what it's going to be a hundred years from now?
SAND! You live in a freaking desert!! Ahhhh! Ahhhhhh!! Ahhhhhhhh!!!"
They were not amused.
Your right down the road from me, I've been trying to get my son to dig me a well for 2 years. I hope when I share this with him he'll help me
One of the neatest video's I've ever watched....I'm a DYI person, retired, HVAC is still my trade and I Learned something today, that makes me feel good.... So patient a man, so clear a video...My earnest thanks to you my man...Truly, thank you.
This dude is so chill he is seriously awesome. He's the Bob Ross of well digging.
And over here about every 10 ft were gonna install a happy check valve
What’s a happy check valve??
@@fredtrainer7837 The cousins of happy little trees😂
I did this many years ago in coastal North Carolina with 2” x10’ galvanized pipe with a sand point and check valve at the end. I wired a cheap 50’ garden hose with a makeshift nozzle to the outside of the pipe so it sprayed down, attached the hose to a water source and started pushing it down. When the water stopped coming out of the hole I knew I was in the aquifer. Went additional 10’ down, hooked up a cheap centrifugal pump and started to water the lawn. High pressure water and fancy nozzles are not necessary. My nozzle was a piece of 1/2” metal tubing jammed into the end of the hose with the end flattened. Keep it simple.
No
@@benjaminmmatol1166 Ok
Good idea! Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for that.
The flattened metal acts as a jet so the pipe jets-down in a hurry…
I have helped my dad put in wells many times for lawn sprinklers. He alway drove a galvanized 4” casing using. 3’ length of railroad track with a 1” x36” galvanized pipe welded to it. You picked it up and dropped it to drive the casing then flushed it out using the same procedure as you used. Brought back a lot of good memories for me
Thanks
But first you need to know that there's water there isn't it. ??
@@prophet1782 somewhere between 40’ to 60’you will find water in central Florida that’s good for irrigation And usually it’s good for drinking also you just need to have it tested. Florida has several underground rivers deep under ground these are great for human consumption. I have never put in or helped put in a well that that failed to provide water.
@@hvacmike1175 Oh Ok Thanks Mike.
I'll throw a shrimp on the Barby for you.
lol..we do the same its a game changer for the wanna be tough guys
In Australia we connect a device called aslurpy to a garden hose or pump and feed it down the 100ml casing ,by adrain tube it brings all cut debris and sand up to ground as casing sinks allow slurpy to follow run drain through a tank strainer and when gravel is sighted correct level has been achieved allow slurpy to create a void at end of casing then retrieve it (slurpy) lower spearpoint down casing to approx 300ml to 600 ml below end of casing and connect to pump
Did that with a 2-1/2” pipe and a small water pump. Went down 58 ft and the pipe dropped 2 ft! Hauled it up and started pumping water into it with a half inch hose, to remove the sandy sediment. All of a sudden, we’re getting more water out than we put in. It came nice and clean after about 15-20 minute. Stopped the pump and secured the pipe with grout. Had to run a line out and cap the well so we could finish with clean the cavity. Once we got clear water, tested ok, hooked to the house line and away it went. That was back in the 70s.
Congratulations on your well. This is the 1st time I have been on your channel so my question is more of an observation. Palmettos are a surefire tell that your land is "wetlands" prone to flooding. I hope your, "tiny house" cottage is being built with the known " flood plane" or high water mark. I built a camp in just such an area and was not too fortunate and it succumbed to hurricane caused back water flooding. I rebuilt but I put it on an array of large plastic foam filled barrels. Additionally I sunk 4 very sturdy post, one on each corner with metal rings made from some 6" scrap pipe. This system allows up and down movement to allow for 25' of flood water. Wells can be ruined, at least the pump can, by flooding also so I would give it a fighting chance by an elevated well house. Not preaching doom, just wise preparation, something living through well over 7 decades of Louisiana hurricanes and floods sort of forced at least a modicum of education (school of Hard Knocks University with PHD in hard headedness) on mother nature.
I did this diy in vegas, 3 months later i’m already at 3 feet down, I’m almost there! Whoohoo!!!
600 more ft by then Las Vegas water nazis will come arrest you
When I was much younger I would have done this. Wonderful lesson from a WONDERFUL TEACHER!
I love this dude wish he was my neighbor. Great attitude
To keep the pressure nozzle from getting stuck, put a section of steel pipe on the end so it can't get outside the pipe. You should let the pump run wide open without shutting the pump off. You are just filling the pressure tank with silt. Not a good idea. You can also use poly pipe instead of pvc for your well point.
Love your attitude, as soon as you said; FOUND ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD it reminds me of me. Not every thing has to come from AMAZON, HOME DEPOT, LOWES, or CABELAS. I always say, "the wheel has already been invented all we have to do is know how to use it." Gracias great job bro.
Any time you're jetting, if you can add compressed air to the jetting water, it will increase the pressure, and volume and help float the jetted material out. We've used this method to pull out timber piles from an old bridge 12" timber piles, sunk 40' into bay bottom. And I've used it at home to jet in timber piles for a bulkhead, using water from my faucet (approx. 40 psi) and a small air compressor one-inch dia. PVC jet pipe, in sandy soil with a little clay.
Where was the old bridge?
I really enjoy watching this, thank you very much, we need people like you in South Africa
It's amazing to me that you hit ground water at 3', and your well will be 30 to 40'. My well here in AZ, on an aquafur, is at 600'. My well in CA is about the same. Good info, thanks for the video.
Here in S. Ga/N. Fla, it's not unusual to have ground water seeping into any hole over 3' or 4'.
A trick I learned was to hand dig a 2 foot
deep hole in the creek bank, about 3 feet from the creek, and after carefully dipping it out a few times and letting it settle (careful not to knock dirt in or collapse the walls), it would stay full of clean water.
The creek water looked and was nasty, but the water in the hand dug well was drinkable!
Yes, I did drink it occasionally, and nowadays it may have poison chemicals or heavy metals in it, but I never got sick!
The book "My side of the mountain" inspired alot of exploration and experiments in my preteens, back in the '60's.
What don't kill ya makes you stronger, they say.
I regret that most kids have no experiences like this.
Everything is virtual for them, including staying alive.
They may not understand that there is no literal reset button, so they won't know how to be resourceful in a life and death situation.
Dead is dead!
Shallow water is potentially contaminated especially over a clay subsoil which traps surface water. Deep aquifers are clean so go deep.
There are many aquifers in my area between layers of limestone. This requires heavier material and heavy pounding unfortunately. most wells in my area are around 50-75 feet. However, they are pretty much connected through the aquifers to neighboring wells. This creates a problem. There are pretty high standards in this area as to the procedures used to prevent cross contamination. One of our neighbors decided to DIY a well to supply his hogs with water and ended up contaminating the water supply to around 50 farms in the area. This comes in the form of E-coli ( coliform ) bacteria that is found in the top soil almost everywhere. In this area there are requirements for the installer to take special care to wipe down with chlorine any pipe segments inserted into the hole or well piping to prevent such contamination. We had to bust through limestone to around 200 feet to get to a source of sparkling fresh water. Unfortunately, the installer was not careful enough and either passed through and dragged down a layer of the contaminated aquifer, or introduced coliform from the surface. The end result was, about two weeks later, the fresh sparkling water started to smell foul ( sulfur smell), and was contaminated with coliform e-coli bacteria. Since it was an aquifer source, ( underground stream ), and not just ground water seepage in sand and clay, the entire aquifer became polluted with a bacterial bloom. Normally, in a well like the one you dug the problem can usually be resolved by back flushing with a lot of chlorine. In our case however, that would not practically stop the problem due to the huge volume of water that was contaminated. So after several thousands spent we ended up with the same problem no matter what we tried. Spraying down the ground where you are digging with chlorine and laying down your pipes on clean plastic sheeting is probably a good idea.
Coliforms are bacteria that are always present in the digestive tracts of animals, including humans, and are found in their wastes. They are also found in plant and soil material.
Can you drink well water with coliform bacteria?
Don't drink the water without treating it until you find and fix the problem. Coliform is a large group with many different kinds of bacteria. Most Coliform bacteria are harmless. Various types of Coliform live in the soil and even on surfaces in your home, but they do not occur naturally in groundwater.
Is coliform harmful to humans?
Most coliform bacteria are not harmful. However, some can make you sick. A person that has been exposed to these bacteria may have an upset stomach, vomiting, fever, or diarrhea. Children and the elderly are more at risk from these bacteria.
How do you get rid of coliforms?
How Do I Remove Coliform Bacteria From My Drinking Water? The water can be treated using chlorine, ultraviolet treatment system or ozone, all of which act to kill or inactivate E. coli. Systems using surface water sources are REQUIRED to disinfect to ensure that all bacterial contamination is inactivated, such as E-coli.
Will shocking a well get rid of coliform?
When done properly, shock chlorination will kill all the bacteria existing in a well. A recent Penn State study of wells contaminated by coliform bacteria found that shock chlorination and installation of a sanitary well cap successfully removed the bacteria for one year in 15 percent of the wells. ( note: low success rate and need for repeated treatments )
Is coliform and E. coli the same?
E. coli is a sub-group of fecal coliform. When a water sample is sent to a lab, it is tested for total coliform. If total coliform is present, the sample will also be tested for either fecal coliform or E.
What diseases can coliform cause?
Although most strains of E. coli are harmless, others can make you sick. Some kinds of E. coli can cause diarrhea, while others cause urinary tract infections, respiratory illness and pneumonia, and other illnesses.
What are the symptoms of coliform infection?
Symptoms and Causes
Stomach pains and cramps.
Diarrhea that may range from watery to bloody.
Fatigue.
Loss of appetite or nausea.
Vomiting.
Low fever < 101 °F/ 38.5 °C (not all people have this symptom).
What happens if you put too much bleach in well?
Image result
If you put too much bleach in your well, it can destroy the good bacteria found in the well, which can be a significant problem! The company also says that you should dilute the bleach with water so the pipes do not get ruined.
Can you boil water with coliform?
Boiling water kills coliform bacteria, but does not remove nitrate. Do NOT boil water with both coliform and nitrate.
What temperature do coliforms grow?
The growth of coliform and all bacteria was rapid at 55-60 ° F. Which is, in the U.S. the average underground temperatures.
Again, I cannot overemphasize the importance of taking extra special care to prevent this contamination when drilling a water well intended to supply drinking water to humans or other animals. These bacteria types are not normally found in normal ground water, and it only takes one to ruin an otherwise perfect well.
That is exactly why they have rules for drilling wells and should be done by a licensed driller. I don't care if you kill yourself but you have not right to kill your neighbors
Holy novel Batman.
Talk about a value added comment... Whoa!
@@marcs3982 Right! That was a week's worth of school!
We drinken dus eigenlijk verdunde stront. 🤨
Thanks Top Man
You just need to believe you can do something, by learning from the best like you ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I'll make a suggestion. Leave the four inch pipe about 4 to 6 inches above ground level. This will keep all the sand from falling the pipe as you drill making drilling much easier.
Try it. Works. Keep drilling!!! Ed
you spent a lot of time developing a very good RUclips. One item in your planning and jetting process that I missed mention of, is the fact that a shallow well pump as you have is good for a maximum of 25 feet depth of water. And that’s with a perfectly good pump.
Thank you for sharing this. My well point is shot, like 50 years old so I'm going to use your information
Adjust ur pressure switch higher kick on at 30psi off at 50psi and make sure ur bladder tank has air in it to carry ur pressure and flow usually the air leaks out that's why they throw them away but great vid!
yeah and never strap them by water heater , suspend by shark bites only
One of the best presentation on how to make it happen i have seen. Have my rye on a peice of land needing water and electricity. This makes it all work easily. Thank you.
Thank you. You can do it
I enjoyed your video. I drilled a couple of shallow wells about 20 feet deep *many* decades ago using a bit that I think my uncle made using a piece of 1.5" or so steel pipe with teeth welded to it and 3/4" galvanized pipe for the drill stem. We ran water down it from a garden hose and I'm not sure whether the bit did more of the cutting or the water did. I like your method better, although mine would be able to handle rocks or roots easier. I drilled the well, then my dad pulled the bit and drill stem out and put a casing in the bore hole. I wish I remembered more about that process. We used those wells for irrigation.
Other people have commented about having the well casing above the grade so I don't need to mention that.
Your well is over 30' deep so your pump is working really hard just to lift the water at 0 GPM; you are right at the limit to what a suction pump can lift. That pump you found looks like a jet pump; those can go over 100' if you use them in jet mode; you might want to reconfigure it to operate as a jet pump instead of a simple suction pump. But I'm not sure you can do that with just a single pipe.
Now, I am confused. Cool stuff. I’m on a well @165’. Works good now for fifty years, “getting ready”. I’m told a new one lasts 15 years. Haha, probably smells like rice too. Cheers
@@alexbernal4988 I neve said he was pumping 30 feet, I said the well was >30'. The limit from a suction pump is about 25 feet or so, but the water level is probably not going to be all the way at the bottom. I'm not going to watch the video again just to see if the water table is really 3' from the surface. Not sure what your problem is.
The well is 30 feet deep. That doesn't mean the water level is 30 feet deep. I was assuming the water is *near* the bottom (20 feet or so), otherwise why dig the well so deep. As you approach 25', the pump is working hard just to lift the water up the pipe; a jet pump is more efficient. And if the water level is over about 25 feet down, you *need* a jet pump or a submersible. I've never claimed to be an expert but I do have some experience with this (mostly in east Texas where the water's about 10 feet down) 🙂
Sir you have no idea how much you have helped me, with this video. You unleashed an unstoppable self-reliant homeowner when you said "if you think you can do it then you can do it". This comes shortly after i had been crying and praying to God to give me the ability to maintain my property by myself because i don't have a lot of money to pay and no way can i locate as much as one plumber had quoted at once. And i would have to get matrrials and do all prep work for him to replace my pump or it would cost even more. If i have to do all of that then i might as well fix it myself. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!
Happy to help
Hi you are great with what you"be teach us this morning may God Almighty put more grease to your elbow .
The tank should have an air bladder in it. You should check the psi on the air bladder also.
What are you saying?
Im totally new to this 😮
Glad it all worked out fine :-)
I heard about this way of drilling over 30 years ago :-)
I was a sales agent for Johnson Screens , still have their handbook :-)
I know this is all done on a budget , yet the well point is , rather primitive , yet miles ahead of the hacksaw slots used in similar attempts here 30 years ago .
Once the well tip has bottomed , use water to loosen fine sand and form a gravel pack .
Would be nice to know for how long you are able to pump at the initial volume .
Nice to have a nearby well to use for water , wonder how much you actually used :-)
Anyway , nice to see something that I was involved in many years ago .
Just a thought , if one can afford a Johnson /similar well screen , well life will be extended at lower pumping costs .
Have a nice day :-)
A crew put in dozens of wells down our road this year to dewater for a sewer dig. They had a 20' steel pipe hooked to a high pressure pump with drilling fluid. Wells went in in about two minutes. You need special equipment to do this right.
I wish I could do this
WOW! This is great! I'm 11 months late, but REALLY needed to watch this! Thanks so much!
One of the best methods if not the best that I have seen so far. Thanks a lot for sharing
mud pump add on big 3" outer pipe with a T and a cap that seals well enough to center pipes. drill saw hole in cap for pipe to fit.
use pressure washer to stir up sand and mud pump to suck up as much entrained sand in water before it settles out.
turbulence and water velocity are you friends.
Super cool video.
Fun virtual trip to the woods.
Wow! I’m impressed! Just proves if there is a Will then there is a way!
Good job my friend!! My mother paid $5 grand in 1994 to have her well dug. I have the receipt.. And now they want over $25 grand. If not more to dig a well. Haven’t really priced it lately. But when I look at the receipt for $5 grand.. I just wonder why !! Because we all know wages have not gone up like that.. We should not need 2 people in the family working to survive.. it is really sad.. I feel bad for young people today.. getting price gouged at every angle.. my mother was a stay at home mom.. my dad took good care of his family.. He wasn’t lazy. That’s what men are supposed to do. Not anymore they have made it impossible for the hard working man.
I put my shallow well down 26 feet with a similar process using a regular trash pump (mud pump) instead of jet pump. Using a bit of bentonite in your drill water helps keep the hole walls from seizing on your drill pipe.
good job ilike that thank you for you IDEA
Great video. The best part is this guys attitude. He knows he will be successful in this endeavor and methodically takes the steps to get there. Really nice work, Sir.
Love the video and your positive outlook. I learned a great deal on how I too can install a new shallow well for our next project. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Pretty ingenious I love this- live in Northeast nevada- cost of a new well here if yours quits recovering is about 30k presently- this would be an excellent alternative to depen my well or drill new
Need that pressure to be more like 50. If that is a shallow well you may consider pumping to a storage tank so that you work off the storage and the little well can just fill the storage as it can little by little
Storage tank is a must if renting out tiny house. Think of four people doing back to back showers, toilet use etc . The air B&B will refund if they complain. The air B&B rating will be lowered too much to a point to get removed from listing.
@@uGoGop if they plan on using this as potable water in the rental, they are in for a rude awakening. There is no way this well is legal. People scoff at public health regulations but we have them for a reason, and pumping ground water from this shallow of a well is almost guaranteed to be all kinds of contaminated.
U are really hard working n have experience in achieving the target . U have to have gutts n hard labour in doing so as I have seen many time in making French drains, the horizontal drain by digging 2- 3 ft with fabric n stones n covering it up . The results great. By doing 4- 6 upright drains u can get work done n happy with low cost n much easier way. Just like me u have to have techniques one way or the other to get the job done. Thanks
Very nice! I wonder if you could make a 2 inch well casing and feed the 1 inch suction pipe inside?
I used the drive point system 1 1/4 pipe with heavy duty couplings and high impact dope. hit water at 35 ft went an extra 5 ft . at the peak of the dry season. took about 4 hrs of hard ramming and put a 1 1/4 ball value just below the hand pump. best 28 bucks ever spent, no priming needed . the system is fast and not to hard, if you use the correct tools and materials. don't cheat. if you don't know about the drive point system , research it. cheap and fast.
You can clean out an old well by pumping air out of a compressor. I used a shop rated compressor with three eights hose and as the sir bubbles up the sand comes out. It worked fine I. Four inch casing and took the fine sand out to eighty feet. You will need a big gas powered compressor that will power a breaking hammer for six inch casing.
That was amazing and I am so glad that the pump they were throwing away worked , you do suck great work ,thanks Chuck I used your methods to fix my mom's garage everytime it rained water wood come in and at one point there was three inches of water over the whole floor I did everything you say to do and the water problem is fixed when it rains no leaks not even a drop ,no moisture no mold , perfectly dry the way it should be and that made my mom very happy and me to thanks Chuck for your videos I am forever grateful ,God Bless you and your family
ok what did he say, to dig a drainage trench around it .. ?
dig around lay some drainage pipe and then pea rock around that and fill w/sand, dirt.. ?
please do tell ..
I talked to a driller in Cleveland Texas, he said it would cost $8200.00 to drill! My property is very close to the Trinity River and Sam Lake so in my opinion I won't have to go down very far to reach water, maybe 20-30 feet hopefully. The driller said that the property I bought (.71 acres) was in a place called Trinity Valley. He said it is in a flood zone. I will travel to my place for the first time after x-mas and check the last time this area had a flood. I think the water is close here, not far down. In this area he said the water is calcium and iron, I guess a rusty color but I will need a filter. I will look for a water line on the trees to determine if a flood has happened. This was an inspiring video sir, thank you. One question I have is where can I find the materials and supplies?? You said you will list them, but where do I find your supply list?
Thanks for making such a great video!
Bob👍
On your pressure hose would it help to have some flags every few feet. Then you would know how deep the end of the hose is and might be able to avoid extending the hose below the end of your pipe. If you have 20 feet of pipe then when the 20 foot mark on your hose is even with the top of the pipe your tip will be as deep as you want to go. Use some colored electrical tape or even some paint to mark the hose, use alternating colors like they use on anchor chain to know how much hose you have inserted.
Hey, hi. I should have asked this question 35 years ago. I have a well on my lawn. It's not deep... 40' maybe. When we capped it, we had to set up an overflow because there was too much water flow. We tapped into the well casing about 6' below the surface, ran a hose down into the woods, and let the extra water flow away because if we didn't release the extra water, it would come up over our well casing and flood our lawns and property. The overflow pipe runs at 14 gallons per minute, non-stop for 35 years, 24/7. It has enough pressure to push water up over the roof of our home. I am 71, and finally am trying to find some solutions for all this water. I do have an absolutely fantastic drip and/or soak system around out vegetable garden and flower beds. I have a fish pond that is constantly providing fresh and clean water and oxygen. The water just won't stop. I realize that this must seem like I was blessed. I am, but I'm looking for other things to do with it .... I'm 71, not a kid anymore. Thank you
Works good in clay and sand. Here in Washington State we have glacial till. Hard to blow out 2 inch rocks. When we drilled wells we had to oversize the 1st 18', then put down a 6" steel casing and fill the area between with bentonite clay pellets. But not to do with a plastic pipe as the clay expands when wet and I've seen it crush a sch 40 - pvc 6" pipe.
I have succeeded in drilling with your method and had better results by adding an air compressor line fixed to your cutting head. This will send all material back up into the air.also put a 90 degree elbo at the top of your pipe. To assist the rotation of you cutting, attatch a wheel that slides up your pipe as it drills deeper. Air pressure is a kry factor, you are working too hard....
A deep well pump is needed for water deeper than 12 feet. The deep well pump utilizes a jet system at the depth of your well
That free shallow well pump sounds like it is tied may work for a long time or may not but none the less cool find. Also it may be rebuild able. I would probably build a small shed (water utility shed) over the well and pump with a little extra room to store related maintenance items like oil for the pump if required etcetera
That was a really exciting and fun adventure! Thanks.
Plus I learned a new job skill.
I’m so happy I had a chance to see your video, although we’re not in the same particular geographical location, I tend to be outside of Chicago due west by a couple of hours, very near a serious River you may know it, Mississippi River I don’t know they tell me it’s a good size river… L O L
I just want to say thank you for posting this video. It gave me a lot of ideas. I wasn’t thinking about before, and I look forward to trying some of them to see how well they work here. I have to mention another point, your positive attitude, smiles, and general good demeanor, really brought great positive vibes to this project. You did on video for us. It comes through the video, loud and clear and I just want to tell you how much I appreciate that as I was kind of feeling, overwhelmed by everything, I’ve been reading about pumps and wells and the cost of drilling them, etc. etc.. However, once watching your video, I feel refreshed and really much more positive about this entire project I must do. I just want to say thanks again for all your efforts, patience and laughter to this point I can’t tell you how much it brought to me and my project. Thanks again my friend. I look forward to seeing other things you do just to hear your smiles and laughs… Sincerely, Jerry.
I really enjoyed the video and I love your excitement. I have the same problem with a 30 foot well, I can open the valve all the way or it runs out of water but about half or less it works great
Does this info apply to western states?
Mine won't even run more Than 5 gallons of water before it looses prime I'm going to try a seal on the casing so suction is put on the water in the aquifers instead of just the water in the casing
@@russday1400 I would like to know that answer as well since I live in rural Houston area.
I run mine into large holding tank, with float shut off, then suck from there with 1/4hp to pressure a larger tank, that way I have large amounts of water and can pressure quickly, even 2hp pump pulling from 30ftonly gets 5gpm ( 1hp in ground at 30 ft pushes 100gmp... With 1.5in outlets) but if the pressure pump is at same level as water works great. I fill 80 gallon in about 3.5 minutes from empty, but can run 6 showers, 3 sinks and 2 garden with decent pressure for 20 minutes... Forever if I don't mind low pressure to garden ( they let out most water, shower and sinks are low water flow heads)
Brilliant video on sinking pipe to make a wel, one thing that I might add to this video that would help him a lot and that wound be add some blue tape at sections of the hose so you don't get as many blowouts at the bottom of the pipe especially if you are using that method. Jmo
Wow Chuck !! You just saved me a TON of work and worry !!
Thank you for your great idea. I will try this DIY water boring in my country, Malaysia.
Wow! Your instinct, perseverance and skills and luck too for that free water pump made it!!! Wow!!! Now I'm a subscriber of yours. 😊
Love watching. First time saw how water pump installed and a new way of digging well. Very impressive. I love it. A year ago bought a small property with spring. This is a good idea. Thanks for sharing.
Next time leave your 2" casing above ground and when finished run the pump for a couple of hours to clean out the sand and mud
Love your videos,I live in Louisiana now but I used to live in Waycross Ga and put in many shallow wells. Close to how you are doing it I always connected the mud pump to the 2" and pumped out a basin then ran my 1" with a sand point
Tip cleaners for an Oxy/acetylene torch would work perfect for cleaning your nozzles
chuck i put an air hose down the center of a 2 inch pipe alongside the power washer jet, and occasionally open the air and it blows all the cuttings out the top like a oil well. its pretty cool to see how much water comes flying out the top carrying rocks and mud. then the shaft is cleaner and wont cave in so bad.
This sounds like Russell Crawford method
Well done sir , no pun intended.
Love what you are doing. I am gonna try this method and have own water well...
Good job. The Well... Well Done!
You know, you may need to go with some 10 gauge Romex or a 10 gauge extension cord. I think a 10 gauge will carry 30 amps 50 ft. and the Amps drop further. So your extension cord if it gets hot while the pump motor is running is a good indicator and will weaken the pump motor and destroy it. That's something to consider. It's like running a 15 amp table saw on a 16 gauge extension cord, not a good thing!
This is all bad advise for a proper electrical connection. Even if you didn't have a 16 gauge extension cord and plugged a 15 amp table saw into a general use branch circuit outlet directly; it will most likely trip the 15 amp break you are plugged into since it's overcapacity to beginning with. I see your point here, but there are proper installation methods for hardwiring, over current protection and disconnecting. Romex outside is a bad idea
were so happy for you! we stumbled on your video at 2:30am, we were happy it came out succesful!
Loved your video & I learned something about drilling a well in sandy/clay soil. Well Done!!
Well, well, well.......another 'hole-in-one'!!.......Great spirit you have Chuck...Going to dig our own well...Thanks for the tutorial...Very best wishes. Tony and Carolyn...
Really enjoyed you sharing your well digging adventure! Along with a 'Pump' found by the side of the road!! LOL ... am going to try doing that drilling for water in my back yard. The cost of City water to grow a garden isn't cost effective anymore! It's like buying Gas for the car to go fishing. Ya catch 3 fish and they cost more in the gas you pay then the fish is worth! Takes the fun out of it....Thanks again for the great Video! :^)
What a fun guy to watch 😂 he reminds me of an old buddy of mine who I used to work with. Enjoying reliving those days again and now I hear his name is Chuck. That’s my old buddies name too. What da ya know😆thanks for such a great video. I’ll send it to my brother who needs to put in a well too. Great stuff
I think the location of where you dig makes a HUGE difference. Florida was formed differently than other northern states, and doesn't have as much heavy rocks, thick soil and clays..like the island videos of the people digging underground homes, is amazing, because the soil is totally different than what we have in Ohio.. NO WAY could we dig those homes here like that...and likely couldn't blast the well that easy, either..
Maybe you should try it! Maybe it’s possible! But until you try, all you can do is talk about how it can’t be done..
Just saying
Try it! You might be surprised
@@appledrains We have lots of rocks, shale and about one to two feet of hard, dense clay..but I may consider trying it if and when we decide to put in a well ..I was thinking maybe a cistern would be better..
@@kellycarver2500 I'm from metro atlanta and I have a client who had to hit 500 ft for his new home! The clay and bedrock is no joke. There's a big ass pile of broken up granite near the well site. Florida is super easy dirt
@@nubianking4203 Yep, I believe it. Most ppl don't think it makes a difference, but it sure does. I dug for 3 days by hand here, and only had a kiddie pool. Need a power washer, I think. There's a foot thick layer of pure clay and loads of shale, heavy dirt and stone. He had to go 500 ft for his well?
@@appledrainsI think you just don't understand. I also live in NE Ohio and the clay is no joke. It's feet thick here. Wells are almost always in the range of 150-250 ft. deep here.
Watching from Pretoria in South Africa. Brilliant work
Wow this was pretty well demonstrated and I just learned from this video a lot. Thanks
Great video. Will this method work in heavy clay soil that starts about one foot below ground level and can continue for 20 feet? Thanks again for the video.
If you do try it in clay soil, please come back and post your feedback. My home has soil that's pretty heavy on clay, too.
Same request come back, maybe even video it
For a heavier clay soil or similar perhaps glue a straight pipe connector on the end of the first pipe and rather than cut plastic teeth, epoxy in the appropriate diameter of metal pipe with your precut teeth or alternatively if a hole saw fitted the socket cut the top off and insert.
You could also use high-pressure air hose to blow that well
This video is so badass ! Very well put together, sincere, and full of all good things man.
You have inspired me to fulfill my dream job ( bringing water to those who have none ) 😊
I am certain that some call you a saint brother... I consider you to be nominated as one anyway. Truly a noble deed providing your skills and time to help others. You sir just went to the TOP of my hero list!! 👍 🏄♂ ⛲
Truly a beautiful Florida landscape !! Love it , Florida Native !!
Folks and Guppy pro making a profit on the Nature
To keep cutter tip from turning crossways put a 1 ft long stinger between your tip and flex hose.
With a open bottom well like you just washed down you need to pump the heck out of it for a while to create a cavity at the bottom. The cavity will create a low pressure spot and the surrounding water will rush in trying to equalize the pressure, once this happens you only want to pump the well at a volume that allows clear water. The well will start pumping sand if you are trying to pump more water then the surrounding ground can handle if you continue to pump it beyond the clear water stage you will collapse the cavity and sand in your well point and check valve. You can speed up the creation of the cavity by running a water hose down beside your 1” pipe and add water to your well which will let you run your pump at full volume without worrying about sanding in your new well, as the water starts to clear up reduce the amount of water you are adding. The large cavity that you can create the more water volume you will have because the surrounding water will move to fill it up faster.
Thank you for this very informative video. It sounds as if the well is dug in a sandy area such as Florida or other coastal areas. I wonder if I would get the same results in an area such as Boquete in Panama high lands where volcanic soils are predominant.
no
What a great score finding a pump like that, this was awesome to watch thank you
Might it be possible to add to, or replace, with a larger pressure water tank to extend pump switching duty cycle?
This works in special ground rocks would prohibit this. Plus a lava flow definatly. But informative still. We here in Idaho our wells vary from 180 feet to 360 feet and all through solid lava. It's a whole different gorilla lol. Great video. I enjoyed it
Thanks 🙏 Chuck it was very interesting, by the way where is that place?
Roy love watching your video's am from the UK
I know this is a old video but I think the motor just needs a clean of the Armitage need cleaning with sand paper and some new brushes they don't need to be for that motor as long they fit there all the same some cheap washing machine one's might do the trick
Awesome info and great positive reinforcement! Thanks!
Yeah, his positive attitude/encouragement was nice
Such a positive person
Awesome Work 👍
After inserting the well point, it would also be beneficial to pump clean water back into th it for a while to flush out clay and fines surrounding the outside of the well Point screen...This would create a larger area of coarse sand to reduce drawn down issues.
Wouldn't it be easier to set the pressure on your other pump up a little?
We ran 3/4 inch pipe a half mile over a good hill and got decent pressure.
do not know where you are located but the other day i watched a video about declining aquifers all over the world. good luck with that.
Very practical. Thanks for sharing.
I live in Lancaster County Pennsylvania most of the wells around here are between 100 and 700 ft deep I wish it were as simple as what you just did, you need a professional drilling company with heavy duty equipment to get down deep here in PA