Thanks @@BadHomeownerI still got some valuable information from your video, I guess I could use this technique here, but I'd have to go a lot deeper like I had mentioned. Thanks again.
I remember when my grandfather's property was annexed by the city and he was told to disconnect his well pumps and cap them off that he was not allowed to use them anymore and had to start paying for City Water Service. It wasn't 12 hours later middle of the night, like 2:45am we were out there digging a trench rerouting the top of the well pipe (masking the "cap" so it was still there and visible) three and a half feet down trenching it over to the old barn and then all the way over to the house 200 ft away installing the pitcher pump in a hidden location. There was no way in hell the city was going to convince my grandpa (raised by communist hungarians) that he needed to pay for water that was rightfully his just 8 or 10 ft down on his own property. That was some of the best well water ever because he had an old fashioned 40 and 60 ft well tap which went into the deep aquifer. Delicious water.
Communist Hungarians ? Do they still live in a communist country? How is the quality of life? I hear life is dreamy in China , Cuba, Valenzuela, Cambodia.
Did his well only pull water from directly under his property and no further or did it pull water from the aquifer simultaneously extending under multiple properties?
@@LongerThanAverageUsername I would guess that the 40 foot was the second well as that pipe looked a lot newer. He stopped using that one sometime before I was born. The 60 ft was definitely better water and a deep aquifer. Everybody else in the neighborhood, all 5 of them, had 60 ft wells. I remember reading the municipal services annex notice where about a dozen locals were named. We lived 15 miles out from the edge of suburbia and 25 miles to center of downtown proper. It was so nice to never have to really pay for groceries. We were a completely self sustaining neighborhood until that happened. There were about 4 or 5 wind turbines when I was about 7 or 8. They were mostly gone by the time I was 11 though. The city eventually upgraded from no to 20 amp service and they were literally annexing everything that made it a "community". There was also a community pitcher pump and open bucket well roughly in the middle of the neighborhood, but it was always locked. It had a sign. "Danger: Open well. 15ft".
@@LongerThanAverageUsernameIt's an aquifier, what the hell do you think😂 why ask questions you already know the answer to? Makes you look a bit douchy.
@@jmaxwell5314 I had to use a grounding plate instead of a grounding rod for my recent electrical install because I tried like 10 times and just hit rocks after like 2ft. Inspector said it was the first time he'd seen a plate used.
I’ll say! Bore diggers in Gin Gin, Queensland, Australia, charge $10,000 for a bore. Watch this video and you’ll be saving yourself $10,000. This guy is genius!
Environmental professional here and I found this both intriguing and interesting. When installing wells it is imperative that a "seal" in the form of a bentonite plug be set at the top of the screened area so that any "perched" water from above (usually polluted) does not contaminate the aquifer, assuming that one has penetrated the upper aquitard. Given the shallow depth of this well and the observation of grey "blue clay" you are only in a perched water situation and that you intend this for irrigation, not for potable purposes, I don't see an issue. Suggest a pumping test to see just how much well storage you have. Since you don't have a proper well gravel "filter pack" depending on the granularity of the surrounding soils, the production of this well may diminish as the screen slowly gets plugged up with fines. You may get lucky though if a natural filter forms in lieu of a gravel filter.
Hey great video! This is actually my job. You did amazing work as a diy. Consider of putting the valve at the bottom of the well and pulling the end cone in the peripheral pipe, so dirt wont clog the suction oipe in the long run. In boreholes we put peripheral pipes called filters where the water column exists. Have in mind that pressure pumps have a limited capability of sucrion depth and probably they will work on cavitation, wearing the pump really fast. There are also other diy ways to pump the water. A hand pump like tge old days would be a nice idea and a good diy project too, you could turn it into motor pump too. Great content!
@bunberrier he mentioned cavitation which is tiny air bubbles "exploding" inside the pump wearing away the materials. Ideally the pump is at the bottom and pushing the water up rather than sucking like a straw. No way for air to get in the works if it is always under water.
@@bunberrier When you try to lift water by sucking you do this by lowering the pressure above it (be it air or water). At about 30ft (9 m) you reach a point where the water will boil off due to the low pressure and you will be pumping water-vapour. The seal of the pump (shaft between motor and pump) relies on the cooling/lubricating effect of the water being pumped through the pump as this seal is usually two very flat pieces of ceramic sliding/rotating against each other. Without cooling and lubrication these wear down faster (and can become an air-leak). Water-vapour does not cool or lubricate well. Even for pumps that are so-called self-priming, we always fill the pump with water first and if we can the suction-pipe too to give the pump an easy start and prolong its lifespan. When there are very low pressure zones in the pump, cavitation can occur (typically on the vanes or near the seal). Bubbles of low pressure form and when they move to a region with higher pressure, they collapse. This collapse is, unfortunately, not symmetrical and the result is a tiny water-jet impacting the material, blasting some of it off ( similar to a shaped charge warhead ).
When I did mine I wanted 45 ft. That’s what the city does for all their sprinkler systems. Once I got to 27’ everything I sent down just disappeared. I tried bentonite but it didn’t help. I did gravel around the head and it’s been pumping beautiful since 2013. I guess I did it right. It runs 3-4 hours a week and even after a drought that lasted over a month never have I been short of water. If I had to do it again I would use galvanized pipe and just use a jack hammer with a home built fitting. That’s actually how the guys that do it for a living here do it. Except they have a 100lb sled that slams it down. My first pump was a cheap Lowe’s pump. It lasted 10 years. I now have a Gould which pulls way more more. I only use it for watering not my house water.
I am looking to do the same thing, but run the sprinkler system at my house. What type of GPM are you getting with your pump? Do you happen to know which model it is?
The term for why the water helps dig is *liquifaction*. They make kits for deep well hand drilling for ~$1k. Really cool to see you fabricate the process
I just came across your video today, it's late August of 2024. I wanted to Thank You so much for taking the time to video your experience and posting this. I didn't use a pressure washer and all I can say is, WOW! Yes! That is definitely the way to go! I had to sink a stainless steel point a few years ago and pounded and pounded and pounded. My shoulder hurt for 18 months after that experience. Thanks for the great ideas! Next time, Yes! $100 pressure washer and a hose!
1:55 use angle grinder its much easier and its not safe to drill well next to the house cause pulling out too much water, soil under the house could colapse
In Florida, after the 2 hurricanes, many had no access to water or sewer or septic. Our lake flooded up to 1" below our sliding glass doors. I give credit to the Lord for protecting our home. I have lives here 16 years and never seen water this high. Your video popped up and I immediately thought I have to have this for me and my neighbor. Instead of putting lake water through lifestraws and berken system, we can use this pump water. I can make solar for it, or just keep the hand pump. If the water is ever used as a source of control, it will not affect us with this. I like the idea of irrigation, too, as pumping from lake to water lawn and plants is illegal here. I love this video. Oh, I have to make sure the pump is high enough to be above our 100 year catastrophe lake height. Our bedrock is about 35ft down. Inbetween is mostly limestone.
If you need to go deeper in the future and you can get past that hard spot... Leave your casing alone. Take a marker and carry a STRAIGHT line from the bottom to the top, this will be your "High Side". You'll have to remove your current end and add your pvc drill bit back on. Use a heat gun, put a small bend in the PVC, say 8" back from your bit/serrated end. You want to bend in the SAME direction as your marked line or "high side". Maybe another 8" back and put another slight bed on your high side mark. Trip back in the hole, pick a direction or a set point, and work as you did before, watching your high side. Right before you get back on bottom, start "Directional Drilling" :) Hopefully you can work around what ever you're hitting. If you still can't get around it, get another direction you want to drill and start again. This is how we Directional Drill in the Oilfield except we have a MWD Tool that tells me what direction the bit is going. I've used this same tecnique to drill under driveways to run cables. I just kept my High Side between 23:00 and 01:00 which is facing the sky, or 350° and 10° in the Oilfield. You did good letting the water do the work.
Very nice. I have an old artesian well with a pump from the 70s that doesn't work anymore. We have been on county water since they put a line in the neighborhood in the late 2000s. Going to put a new pump on it for watering the lawn around the house. One thing you should do, tag your well casing. With the date, depth, and GPM it produces. When you get old and grey it will be useful information for the next person if it's still producing.
Good job, I would make a few suggestions. 1. Use sch. 40 4" pipe for the casing and inner pipe instead of thin wall. 2. NO gravel under the grout seal, dig that hole as deep as you can get it. Use Portland cement or fine grained Bentonite. 3. Move that animal enclosure at least 100' from the well ALSO make sure the well is at least 100' from the septic system drain field and tank and 50' from any sealed septic lines. 4. Use a skill saw to cut 6" long slots in the submerged section of liner pipe to allow water to come in. 2 or 3 rows of longitudinal slots spaced evenly around the pipe spaced about 6" apart.
I have one but it's 22 ft deep. Wish I had it dug 40 ft deep. Water is much better quality when deeper and better for your lawn. FYI in case you decide to get one.
Just had this pop-up randomly , and happens to be a situation where Im concerned about my water.. Anyway this vid is very much one of the best DIY vidz Ive seen - attention to detail n explanationz , graph even .. Awesome job Sir.
I bought a house that has a well and I didn’t even know it. It’s in a suburb. One day my uncle told me it’s a well so I hired a guy to pull it all out and change out everything. My other neighbor told me the previous owner digged it himself about 35 yrs ago. The well is only 18 ft deep so I just use to water plants.
@@davidbryant3532 well, I don’t know the exact detail of how the guy did it. But it’s a small hole down about 5-6” diameter. I figured he used some hand tools to do dig it. Or even those pounding method.
Wow it would be great to live outside of alluvium or glacial till and be able to go more than 1' without hitting cobbles and boulders. This was a cool project tho. Well MacGuyverd
Same here, and the water table is between 40 and 60 feet deep. So that would be a long slow process. I have 3 wells on my parent's old farmyard. One is salty and almost no water, the 2nd is hard and almost no water. The third is VERY hard, both calcium and magnesium, but all the water you could want. I have rural water these days though. It's much better than trying to do anything with what comes out of the wells.
@@xlerb2286 I'm sorry to hear you have suboptimal water from your wells. If you didn't have hard water, would you use it or are there other properties of the water that cause you to prefer your other source?
@@devon9075 The water is 120 grains hard, and it's high in iron and magnesium so it makes a great laxative ;) Plus there's a cattle operation in the region that has contaminated the ground water in the area so I'd need to add a chlorine treatment or similar. But rural water is $20 a month basic charge plus a very low cost based on gallons used. I've never had a water bill more than $35. And it's great water. The well is still there as a backup just in case.
We used a pressure washer to dig an electrical run right underneath tree roots. Conduit pipe went in super easy and we saved ourselves the cost and hassle of a ditch witch and tree removal. This is a great video. I want to use this method to put in a wash station next to my greenhouse. We're at the overlap of costal and piedmont regions in a watershed. So our soil make up is identical to yours.
I'd like to know how he keeps it all from freezing up in winter... yeah, he's got a frost free spigot, but, all that exposed plumbing around the pump would freeze solid in my northwest U.S. location fracturing both plastic and metal piping. Any Feedback?? Where are you located?
Our water/sewer bill has gone up 4x in the last 10 years. It is assumed that all water goes in the sewer, which is 2x the water cost. My town does allow a separate meter for lawns/gardens/ect. so you don't have to pay the sewage portion. Buying and installing the second meter is upwards of $1500.
@@BadHomeowner In the UK we get charged for rain water removal. Well really I suppose it's for the use of the street drains because the stuff seems to flow away all by it's self.
those jet pumps say they can only do 25 ft lift, but you're getting 40 ft... do you notice more cavitation and faster degradation of the the pump internals?
When putting the well point in, I like how he stands on the very tip of his toes on the 2nd rung of the ladder instead of just going up one step. I just thought that was funny :-)
@@sophiaadams73 they put the steps there for a reason didn't they. If it wasn't safe to go higher, there wouldn't be more steps. Or there would be huge writing saying "no step" just like it does on the very top of pretty much every single a frame ladder in the world.
I don't understand? when you insert a 4 inch pipe with water , Eventually dirt muds goes inside the 4 inch pipe ,How do you drain that ? then 2 inch pipe same situation, How do you get rid of Muds inside the pipe. ? Looks like LOTS of water you have to use to get rid of Muds, Am Right?
What do you do if you run into rock?.... take a steel rod and hammer to it' bust it up and continue or try a different location? Also why did you not get fred to stand on the roof to help you hold the pipe while you were glueing it up? Haven't seen him around lately' is he still hanging around?
@@BadHomeowner - I had the exact same thought as SinisterThoughts. I couldn't believe what I saw here. You must have miracle soil that allows you to sink plastic pipe in the ground so easily. Here in Wisconsin it is constant rocks. We have to use heavy gauge galvanized steel pipe and drive it in with a sledgehammer. Sometimes it felt like I was at a solid dead stop. But I just had to keep slamming it until I either cracked the rock or pushed to the side of it. It was 2-3 days of pounding to get about 20 feet down. Also (and maybe this could vary by region), but I was warned not to go too deep; that you can go through and beyond the vein of water. It was recommended to me that ideally you want to be 4-5 feet into the water. I kept dropping a weighted string down the pipe and checking to see how much of the string was wet, until I got my proper depth.
@bradwaldoch194 I've also driven a steel well point here, hit a rock, and broke my well point. (I made a video about this). I wouldn't say pipe sunk "easily". You still needed 2000 PSI from the pressure washer to break up the clay and push up the sand. There's a lot of force going into the ground in order to make this happen. But the pressure washer makes it looks easy due to the high pressures
This was very cool to watch, even though I don't need a well. Our house sits on top of an underground stream, at the bottom of a hill, and a basement sump system pumps about 5 gallons of clear cold water every 10 minutes; a PVC pipe leads it down to the bottom of our property where it drains into a ditch and eventually into the town sewers. I have no idea how this was permitted; it was like this when we bought the house and we didn't ask any questions. Anyway, we don't drink the water but it's handy for irrigation and filling a big tub for cold outdoor baths during the very hottest part of the summer. Sooner or later I'll have the water tested and if it's clean, I'll use it to flow water through the coop so the chickens will have a near-constant flow of fresh, cold water and I won't need to be cleaning and refilling a bucket every 3-4 days!
Hey brother, @7:22 , I had that issue but added a cap and drilled a hole large enough to fit pressure washer extension through and not the bulky end to prevent sticking.
Need to witch with copper rods before you dig call it bs but I am at a property right now that gets 60-80gpm when the neighbors and everyone else around gets 5-15gpm the only difference is the person that dug this well picked the spot using witching rods
your video showed up as i was reviewing my video, punching down. i used a deep rock, and drilled 90 feet over some weeks. cold, rain, sleet, snow (i'm not the post office, i stayed in) and got water. your project was simple, clean and i'm impressed by your thinking. the only recommendation i would make to you, is never pull your stem. in the cold, it will break when you try to replace it. if you ever have to pull it, use threaded sections so that you can pull it, and uncouple it. ya, it is a hassel, but replacing broken pvc is as well. my bud out in west texas could not keep his sister from pulling 300 feet of pvc, and it all had to be replace and they had to hire a well servce to fish out the broken pipe. good video, well done
you "used a deep rock." Are you saying you drilled through rock? if yes, How?? I'm also in TX and trying to figure out how to self drill through rock w/o a drill rig...
I did exactly the same thing and one night as I was taking a break and admiring my handy work with an ce cold Beer, I saw a huge snake appearing out of the brush and dissapearing into the plastic pipe. I thought is was probably just "clinging on for dear life" on the inside of the pipe, but NOPE, she was gone, all the way down about 65 feet down, SO, we only use the water for the garden and I swear I can smell dead snake everytime I put the pump on, but it could just be my imagination, LOL! Close that sucker up every night before you do anyting else or your water will take on the flavour/smell of dead snake or dead Rat.
I live in the country. Unfortunately my house is hooked up to a rural water district. When I first moved in the people who owned the house before me didn't pay their water bill for the last 2 months they were here. The rural water district made me pay THIER bill to get water turned on. Ever since then I've wanted to drill a well and get off their water. Would this work to supply water to a home?
I have a capped well but no idea the condition or depth. House from 37 but cap doesn't look old. Septic cut looked pretty new moving in. Put back a woodstove where their was one before and a chimney in good shape so saved there getting that in with no permit. Out of funds for well now and probably a new septic field like before
I find it incredible that a house is built on such soft boggy ground, amazed its still standing 😮 Here in Scotland we just walk out our doors and get thousands of litres of water free, it falls from the sky!!!!!😂😂😂😂
Awesome!! Thanks for making this video. You literally saved yourself like $5000.00 where I live it's around $5000.00 to drill a 50 foot well lol I new it could be done as a DIY . 👍
Great video. I would suggest you make a call or for the top of the 2 inch drill pipe that will get the dirty water out away from the 4 inch casing right now. You have all the sludge going back down the 4 inch casing.
@@wachinpntdry.Spot on comment. My one house with shallow well had a foot valve with a casting hole that caused a lot of pump cycling as water drained back into the well. The check valve after the pump wont stop that.
My dad used a twist post hole digger with a tee handle and sections of extension and waterdown the hole to make easy mud . If you could pull out 6 or 8 inches dirt each time its like 100 scoops and only 50 of them are over 20 feet long . People help you when it gets bigger . Like rolling a snowball
Hope you are in a warm climate where it never freezes, otherwise everything will burst. In cold climates, we build insulated pump-houses with a heat source for winters.
I live in NY and have a water well, and we don't have that. There is an iron cover over the well and that's all below ground, which I suppose provides some heat insulation.
@@artichoke60045 I think they primarily meant the pump, that can't stay out in freezing temps, you have to drain it and undo a little valve for expansion. We moved ours into our cellar in the end which worked out really well as it won't ever freeze down there.
Don't forget to dump some "small" particle chlorine crystals down the well and let it sit over night. This is to sanitize the system. The next day let the water run for a while to flush the chlorine out. It will have the flavor for a while but it will clear up fairly quick. You can use liquid bleach but the crystals will sink to the bottom and sanitize all the way to the bottom.
Hi, Question, Could you have just skipped the 20 feet of 4-inch pipe, since the 2-inch went down beyond that, then the 1 1/4-inch down further beyond that? Thanks!
Yes you could. I wanted a 4 inch casing to make the initial digging somewhat easier, and in order to install a well cap (which comes in 4 and 6 inch sizes) to keep out debris and stabilize the 1-1/4 in pipe. And some areas may require a casing of a certain diameter if you want it to be "legit". But no it's not technically required.
This was super interesting to watch. 40ft for water and dug by hand seems unbelievable when compared to the shenanigans that go on in India. In my city (and a lot of india), water is a big issue. Just about every single house has a borewell which really depletes the water table. In my ~500 family apartment complex, all the borewells ran out in the summer. A new one was drilled and finally hit water at around 1600 feet, which is frankly absurd.
That was interesting, but you got really lucky. I've seen people with metal sand point wells hammering with sledgehammers and still only getting their well pipe down at a rate of one inch for every 25 hits with the sledgehammer. You were blessed with soft subsoil and no obstructive rocks.
Add a compressor hose with a .25" jet at 100psi + attached to the side of or the pressure washer line. I also add a vacuum line with screen. Works great.
Thanks for doing this. It is awesome. There was a spring on my property that went dry after some construction in the area. I may try to use this technique to restart it.
Sometimes they will use a technique called dewatering to suck out all the surface water in order to build a foundation. It should return over time, but also you can just try digging deeper and find the water where it is.
Could you tell me for the Ryobi pressure washer, where did you get the additional black hose that would fit with the machine and also was the straight metal shaft that digs the ground, is it included or did you buy separate? I am trying to shop at Home Depot. Thanks
I don't know what the exact parts would be for Home Depot, but the hose is linked in the description, and this is the metal wand that I used: amzn.to/3Tm3SNu.
That was most cool. tHanks for the video. (I've wanted to drill horizontally to put in a drain. The idea is to go about ten feet and end up with a 4" pipe. My problem: I think about it too much and don't experiment with drilling techniques. tHanks again for the video!)
I wonder how much better galvanized and threaded fittings would work in rocky soil. Where I would dig has a high water table next to a creek and what used to be the creek and prior owner had a well there at maybe 10 ft deep?
40 feet till water... LOL! dude you are so blessed! The only thing I would change is putting 2 or 3 screws in the PVC joints...glue can fail and if your way down there and its stuck.....
Primed and glued PVC joints are stronger than the pipe itself. Purple primer is cheaper than good screws. Don't try to out-engineer the engineers, you'll only hurt yourself.
Absolutely not. Not only would u not want to wash dishes or shower with this water u wouldn’t have enough to run a small home. Water at only 37 foot depth still has toxins and heavy metals and parasites and bacteria in it not to mention chemical run off from the surrounding houses .This would all need to be filtered.
If you get down into blue clay, get yourself some "clay cutter". It's a additive to put into the water, that breaks down the clay. We use it in hdd. Works like a charm. Or you can use the less expensive but way more messy but also way more fun option and just use dishsoap.
LOL. water table is like 300' down out West and it's all rock to get there. The idea that you could use a hand auger and a pressure washer to even get 10' down is hilarious.
What's even more hilarious is that you have no idea where the man is and your assessment is wrong anyway. I've drilled several wells in the west. Maybe if you're not knowledgeable, you should be quiet.
@@jimibmorein Arizona you wont find water within a hundred feet of the surface unless you are in floodplain like buckeye but that water is all old farm runoff loaded with chemicals.
Nice video, but I am confused. You say you need a check valve that looks to be mounted above ground. How does this keep the well pipe primed? I have only used foot valves for this with jet pumps.
Same way as a foot valve. like how if you stick a straw in your soda and then put your finger on the top of it, you can pick up the straw and the liquid stays in the straw.... same thing here. Turns out it doesn't matter where on the pipe the check valve is. Can be at the top, bottom, or in the middle. It'll work just the same. I like the check valve at the top because it's much easier to access for maintenance purposes.
If you use some plywood with some old inner tube around the pipe will help you alot ,,I did this 50 years ago junky pump & old pipe ,,all that was available!!
Your cuttings are coming up your drill string running over the top and going back down the annulus. It would be better if you could also pump higher volume low pressure water down the drill string forcing cuttings up the annulus to clean the hole. Put a t at the top of your 4” surface casing and add a flow line to direct returns away from the well.
We have a great well and pump right now however the pump is 3 phase so I'm going to build a backup system that I can either run on a generator or a simple hand pump. This video is awesome and I can't wait to start my new well. Thanks for posting 🇺🇲
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You must live in Florida, Here in Southern California, you'd have to go a whole lot deeper than 40 ft.
@@scdhl4 not Florida, but yea I'm on the east coast.
Thanks @@BadHomeownerI still got some valuable information from your video, I guess I could use this technique here, but I'd have to go a lot deeper like I had mentioned.
Thanks again.
do I need a well point if i have well already?
Great job! I was wondering at 12:00 why you didn't place the 40' length of pipe on top of the roof so you weren't fitting the bend?
I remember when my grandfather's property was annexed by the city and he was told to disconnect his well pumps and cap them off that he was not allowed to use them anymore and had to start paying for City Water Service.
It wasn't 12 hours later middle of the night, like 2:45am we were out there digging a trench rerouting the top of the well pipe (masking the "cap" so it was still there and visible) three and a half feet down trenching it over to the old barn and then all the way over to the house 200 ft away installing the pitcher pump in a hidden location.
There was no way in hell the city was going to convince my grandpa (raised by communist hungarians) that he needed to pay for water that was rightfully his just 8 or 10 ft down on his own property.
That was some of the best well water ever because he had an old fashioned 40 and 60 ft well tap which went into the deep aquifer. Delicious water.
Communist Hungarians ?
Do they still live in a communist country?
How is the quality of life? I hear life is dreamy in China , Cuba, Valenzuela, Cambodia.
Did his well only pull water from directly under his property and no further or did it pull water from the aquifer simultaneously extending under multiple properties?
@@LongerThanAverageUsername I would guess that the 40 foot was the second well as that pipe looked a lot newer. He stopped using that one sometime before I was born. The 60 ft was definitely better water and a deep aquifer. Everybody else in the neighborhood, all 5 of them, had 60 ft wells. I remember reading the municipal services annex notice where about a dozen locals were named. We lived 15 miles out from the edge of suburbia and 25 miles to center of downtown proper. It was so nice to never have to really pay for groceries. We were a completely self sustaining neighborhood until that happened. There were about 4 or 5 wind turbines when I was about 7 or 8. They were mostly gone by the time I was 11 though. The city eventually upgraded from no to 20 amp service and they were literally annexing everything that made it a "community".
There was also a community pitcher pump and open bucket well roughly in the middle of the neighborhood, but it was always locked. It had a sign. "Danger: Open well. 15ft".
@@LongerThanAverageUsername Is your head only partially embedded in your posterior, or do you have the whole thing all jammed up in there?
@@LongerThanAverageUsernameIt's an aquifier, what the hell do you think😂 why ask questions you already know the answer to? Makes you look a bit douchy.
You got pretty lucky with that soil, I can't imagine sinking a PVC pipe around here and not hitting 20 boulders on the way down.
Right. I'm on a granite slab on a mountain.
Doctor: Hey there, I just looked at your x-rays and you bilateral heel fractures. What happened?
Me: I was digging a hole and jumped on the shovel 😂
Yeah he is just lucky. To get water at such small feet and go deal with only clay is just luck. Some places are filled with rocks.
@@jmaxwell5314 I had to use a grounding plate instead of a grounding rod for my recent electrical install because I tried like 10 times and just hit rocks after like 2ft. Inspector said it was the first time he'd seen a plate used.
Never happen in New England.
This is actually gold instructions for people who live in the countryside, no one's gonna bother you about doing that
I’ll say! Bore diggers in Gin Gin, Queensland, Australia, charge $10,000 for a bore. Watch this video and you’ll be saving yourself $10,000. This guy is genius!
@@EmilyBieman that's what I reckon, aswell. Property is already pretty expensive these days, so that makes a big difference
Unless your in California
@@EmilyBiemanthey charge $40,000 in California
@@julesverne2509 I thought you can get unlimited groundwater. I recently watched climate towns video on water in the US
Awesome project, the pump plumbing video would be appreciated.
Environmental professional here and I found this both intriguing and interesting. When installing wells it is imperative that a "seal" in the form of a bentonite plug be set at the top of the screened area so that any "perched" water from above (usually polluted) does not contaminate the aquifer, assuming that one has penetrated the upper aquitard. Given the shallow depth of this well and the observation of grey "blue clay" you are only in a perched water situation and that you intend this for irrigation, not for potable purposes, I don't see an issue. Suggest a pumping test to see just how much well storage you have. Since you don't have a proper well gravel "filter pack" depending on the granularity of the surrounding soils, the production of this well may diminish as the screen slowly gets plugged up with fines. You may get lucky though if a natural filter forms in lieu of a gravel filter.
What are fines?
@Jabariray Fines are very small sized particles such as dust and silt. "fines" do not include sand or clay.
@@canuckfixit7722 dust?
@@NobleNobbler Yes but in the soil not the air.
I’ve been doing a lot of research on digging my own well, and this is by far the best video I have found so far on You Tube University!
Hey great video! This is actually my job. You did amazing work as a diy. Consider of putting the valve at the bottom of the well and pulling the end cone in the peripheral pipe, so dirt wont clog the suction oipe in the long run. In boreholes we put peripheral pipes called filters where the water column exists. Have in mind that pressure pumps have a limited capability of sucrion depth and probably they will work on cavitation, wearing the pump really fast. There are also other diy ways to pump the water. A hand pump like tge old days would be a nice idea and a good diy project too, you could turn it into motor pump too. Great content!
That makes sense about the well point. Why would operating the pump against that lift shorten its life? Higher current?
@bunberrier he mentioned cavitation which is tiny air bubbles "exploding" inside the pump wearing away the materials. Ideally the pump is at the bottom and pushing the water up rather than sucking like a straw. No way for air to get in the works if it is always under water.
Question for you , is there water everywhere ??? Or there are certain spots ?
@@littlerock5909 pretty much everywhere if you dig deep enough, 8 ft for him could be 900ft in a terrible location.
@@bunberrier When you try to lift water by sucking you do this by lowering the pressure above it (be it air or water). At about 30ft (9 m) you reach a point where the water will boil off due to the low pressure and you will be pumping water-vapour.
The seal of the pump (shaft between motor and pump) relies on the cooling/lubricating effect of the water being pumped through the pump as this seal is usually two very flat pieces of ceramic sliding/rotating against each other. Without cooling and lubrication these wear down faster (and can become an air-leak).
Water-vapour does not cool or lubricate well.
Even for pumps that are so-called self-priming, we always fill the pump with water first and if we can the suction-pipe too to give the pump an easy start and prolong its lifespan.
When there are very low pressure zones in the pump, cavitation can occur (typically on the vanes or near the seal). Bubbles of low pressure form and when they move to a region with higher pressure, they collapse. This collapse is, unfortunately, not symmetrical and the result is a tiny water-jet impacting the material, blasting some of it off ( similar to a shaped charge warhead ).
I got to send this video to my neighbor. Let him do this first, and then I do mine lol. thanks, awesome info.
ah the sacrificial neighbor.
Lol. Just in case the water table is 400ft deep
You sir are honorable. Or wait I meant a coward.
Awesome idea, plumber here, you used cpvc glue (yellow) pvc glue is clear and much stronger and stays water tight.
Speaking of CPVC, that kind of plastic piping has much stronger mechanical and weathering properties, and better than ABS plastic as well.
When I did mine I wanted 45 ft. That’s what the city does for all their sprinkler systems. Once I got to 27’ everything I sent down just disappeared. I tried bentonite but it didn’t help. I did gravel around the head and it’s been pumping beautiful since 2013. I guess I did it right. It runs 3-4 hours a week and even after a drought that lasted over a month never have I been short of water. If I had to do it again I would use galvanized pipe and just use a jack hammer with a home built fitting. That’s actually how the guys that do it for a living here do it. Except they have a 100lb sled that slams it down. My first pump was a cheap Lowe’s pump. It lasted 10 years. I now have a Gould which pulls way more more. I only use it for watering not my house water.
But how did you know you were not going to encounter hard rocks and ruin your pipes and tools ?
Roflmao
@@Nonyabusiness911 did you test the water? His looked pretty darn clean. Plus it's alkaline
I am looking to do the same thing, but run the sprinkler system at my house. What type of GPM are you getting with your pump? Do you happen to know which model it is?
That sled is called a pile driver.
The term for why the water helps dig is *liquifaction*.
They make kits for deep well hand drilling for ~$1k. Really cool to see you fabricate the process
I just came across your video today, it's late August of 2024. I wanted to Thank You so much for taking the time to video your experience and posting this. I didn't use a pressure washer and all I can say is, WOW! Yes! That is definitely the way to go! I had to sink a stainless steel point a few years ago and pounded and pounded and pounded. My shoulder hurt for 18 months after that experience. Thanks for the great ideas! Next time, Yes! $100 pressure washer and a hose!
1:55 use angle grinder its much easier and its not safe to drill well next to the house cause pulling out too much water, soil under the house could colapse
In Florida, after the 2 hurricanes, many had no access to water or sewer or septic. Our lake flooded up to 1" below our sliding glass doors. I give credit to the Lord for protecting our home. I have lives here 16 years and never seen water this high. Your video popped up and I immediately thought I have to have this for me and my neighbor. Instead of putting lake water through lifestraws and berken system, we can use this pump water. I can make solar for it, or just keep the hand pump. If the water is ever used as a source of control, it will not affect us with this. I like the idea of irrigation, too, as pumping from lake to water lawn and plants is illegal here. I love this video. Oh, I have to make sure the pump is high enough to be above our 100 year catastrophe lake height. Our bedrock is about 35ft down. Inbetween is mostly limestone.
The wells in my area typically run about 400 feet deep. It would be wonderful if they were as shallow as those in your neighborhood.
If you need to go deeper in the future and you can get past that hard spot... Leave your casing alone. Take a marker and carry a STRAIGHT line from the bottom to the top, this will be your "High Side". You'll have to remove your current end and add your pvc drill bit back on. Use a heat gun, put a small bend in the PVC, say 8" back from your bit/serrated end. You want to bend in the SAME direction as your marked line or "high side". Maybe another 8" back and put another slight bed on your high side mark. Trip back in the hole, pick a direction or a set point, and work as you did before, watching your high side. Right before you get back on bottom, start "Directional Drilling" :) Hopefully you can work around what ever you're hitting. If you still can't get around it, get another direction you want to drill and start again. This is how we Directional Drill in the Oilfield except we have a MWD Tool that tells me what direction the bit is going. I've used this same tecnique to drill under driveways to run cables. I just kept my High Side between 23:00 and 01:00 which is facing the sky, or 350° and 10° in the Oilfield. You did good letting the water do the work.
Very nice. I have an old artesian well with a pump from the 70s that doesn't work anymore. We have been on county water since they put a line in the neighborhood in the late 2000s. Going to put a new pump on it for watering the lawn around the house. One thing you should do, tag your well casing. With the date, depth, and GPM it produces. When you get old and grey it will be useful information for the next person if it's still producing.
Good job, I would make a few suggestions.
1. Use sch. 40 4" pipe for the casing and inner pipe instead of thin wall.
2. NO gravel under the grout seal, dig that hole as deep as you can get it. Use Portland cement or fine grained Bentonite.
3. Move that animal enclosure at least 100' from the well ALSO make sure the well is at least 100' from the septic system drain field and tank and 50' from any sealed septic lines.
4. Use a skill saw to cut 6" long slots in the submerged section of liner pipe to allow water to come in. 2 or 3 rows of longitudinal slots spaced evenly around the pipe spaced about 6" apart.
do u have to order Sch. 40 ?
@@doneown503 No, any major hardware store will have it in stock.
too late, he is done
@@earthenergyhex Yeh, but others will follow.
I want a well like this just for watering my garden and lawn
I have one but it's 22 ft deep. Wish I had it dug 40 ft deep. Water is much better quality when deeper and better for your lawn. FYI in case you decide to get one.
Just had this pop-up randomly , and happens to be a situation where Im concerned about my water.. Anyway this vid is very much one of the best DIY vidz Ive seen - attention to detail n explanationz , graph even .. Awesome job Sir.
I bought a house that has a well and I didn’t even know it. It’s in a suburb. One day my uncle told me it’s a well so I hired a guy to pull it all out and change out everything. My other neighbor told me the previous owner digged it himself about 35 yrs ago. The well is only 18 ft deep so I just use to water plants.
Get it tested to be safe. If it has bad chemicals, you don’t want that in your plant, if edible! Testing is cheap!
@@ahumanbeing6875 I bought a test kit on Amazon, the result is good. Hopefully that test kit is enough.
@@davidbryant3532 well, I don’t know the exact detail of how the guy did it. But it’s a small hole down about 5-6” diameter. I figured he used some hand tools to do dig it. Or even those pounding method.
@thienthan324 he is drilling your grammar
@@CarnivoreConservativei red thus drilling yo gramma
By far best video on how to do well
Wow it would be great to live outside of alluvium or glacial till and be able to go more than 1' without hitting cobbles and boulders. This was a cool project tho. Well MacGuyverd
Same here, and the water table is between 40 and 60 feet deep. So that would be a long slow process. I have 3 wells on my parent's old farmyard. One is salty and almost no water, the 2nd is hard and almost no water. The third is VERY hard, both calcium and magnesium, but all the water you could want. I have rural water these days though. It's much better than trying to do anything with what comes out of the wells.
@@xlerb2286 I'm sorry to hear you have suboptimal water from your wells. If you didn't have hard water, would you use it or are there other properties of the water that cause you to prefer your other source?
@@devon9075 The water is 120 grains hard, and it's high in iron and magnesium so it makes a great laxative ;) Plus there's a cattle operation in the region that has contaminated the ground water in the area so I'd need to add a chlorine treatment or similar. But rural water is $20 a month basic charge plus a very low cost based on gallons used. I've never had a water bill more than $35. And it's great water. The well is still there as a backup just in case.
@@xlerb2286that laxative line got me chuckling, thanks for the good laugh!
We have some things in common. When I worked for the Mob 20 yrs ago every project started with a hole as well.
It's very nice to have a water well that a small generator or hand pump can run in case of emergency's.
We used a pressure washer to dig an electrical run right underneath tree roots. Conduit pipe went in super easy and we saved ourselves the cost and hassle of a ditch witch and tree removal. This is a great video. I want to use this method to put in a wash station next to my greenhouse. We're at the overlap of costal and piedmont regions in a watershed. So our soil make up is identical to yours.
Cool! Let me know how it goes
Good back up well to operate commodes and get a purifier to be able to use water for emergency baths and cooking if main deep well goes out!
I'd like to know how he keeps it all from freezing up in winter... yeah, he's got a frost free spigot, but, all that exposed plumbing around the pump would freeze solid in my northwest U.S. location fracturing both plastic and metal piping. Any Feedback?? Where are you located?
I made a video about this, it's a common question: ruclips.net/video/RHVqbrsPRVk/видео.html
Our water/sewer bill has gone up 4x in the last 10 years. It is assumed that all water goes in the sewer, which is 2x the water cost. My town does allow a separate meter for lawns/gardens/ect. so you don't have to pay the sewage portion. Buying and installing the second meter is upwards of $1500.
Same here, we pay for the same water 3 times: supply + sewage + stormwater.
@@BadHomeowner In the UK we get charged for rain water removal. Well really I suppose it's for the use of the street drains because the stuff seems to flow away all by it's self.
those jet pumps say they can only do 25 ft lift, but you're getting 40 ft... do you notice more cavitation and faster degradation of the the pump internals?
I cover this exact question here: ruclips.net/video/RHVqbrsPRVk/видео.html
@@BadHomeowner Awesome, thanks. I didnt know that your water table was only 10 ft down, missed that when I watched your video. Keep up the good work
When putting the well point in, I like how he stands on the very tip of his toes on the 2nd rung of the ladder instead of just going up one step. I just thought that was funny :-)
Yes! I was yelling at him the whole time to climb the darn ladder!
@@sophiaadams73 I've worked on 40-ft ladders my whole life. We're talking 3 ft here lol
Glad I'm not the only one. Cheers.
@@sophiaadams73 they put the steps there for a reason didn't they. If it wasn't safe to go higher, there wouldn't be more steps. Or there would be huge writing saying "no step" just like it does on the very top of pretty much every single a frame ladder in the world.
I would have used that roof to my advantage and not fight the pole or ladder ;-0
I would love to try this, but, where I live there are a lot of rocks under the ground, and the water table is about 75 feet down or more.
I have no intention of drilling a well but it was fun watching you lay some pipe 😊
I don't understand? when you insert a 4 inch pipe with water , Eventually dirt muds goes inside the 4 inch pipe ,How do you drain that ? then 2 inch pipe same situation, How do you get rid of Muds inside the pipe. ? Looks like LOTS of water you have to use to get rid of Muds, Am Right?
How is mud going to get through the wall of a solid pipe? I don't understand the question.
I used about 200 gallons of water to dig the hole.
ok got it . 200 gallon for 40 ft down , thank you.
How did you find out the height of your water table?
How does one get water for the pressure washer while trying to install a well to get water. Did you use some sort of holding tank?
Either that or city water. Depends on how remote you are.
And if you see oil coming out...don't tell ANYONE.
Next thing ya know ….
uh oh.. that aint oil.. hit a sewer line
@@desktorp Thats why everything is mapped and you call the city and they can come out and mark for you where you do not drill or dig.
My reply was mainly for country side. You know, the vast majority of land.
@@lemonyskunkketts7781 bro it was a joke lol
What do you do if you run into rock?.... take a steel rod and hammer to it' bust it up and continue or try a different location? Also why did you not get fred to stand on the roof to help you hold the pipe while you were glueing it up? Haven't seen him around lately' is he still hanging around?
What an awesome video. I'll be doing this on our ten acre partial me and my wife recently purchased.
Maybe I missed it, where did you install the metal pipe and valve?
I uploaded a full timelapse of this project on my channel that you can watch if you're interested, and it includes installation of the yard hydrant.
This is actually gold instructions for people who live in the countryside, no one's gonna bother you about doing that
How do you know water to find the underground water and at which level (feet) underground?
The new waterfall in the subway was glorious LOL
Ha yea, lucky I don't have anything underneath me
@@BadHomeownerdo I need well point if I have well already dug ?
Hi, Is there a separate video yet for the plumbing? I think I will invest and try your methods.
I will work on getting that out
I can't hardly believe you could make a 40 foot hole without hitting solid rock!
All sand and clay
@@BadHomeowner Where I live in South Western PA I dig 6 inches to a foot and we are almost guaranteed to hit shale.
@@BadHomeowner - I had the exact same thought as SinisterThoughts. I couldn't believe what I saw here. You must have miracle soil that allows you to sink plastic pipe in the ground so easily. Here in Wisconsin it is constant rocks. We have to use heavy gauge galvanized steel pipe and drive it in with a sledgehammer. Sometimes it felt like I was at a solid dead stop. But I just had to keep slamming it until I either cracked the rock or pushed to the side of it. It was 2-3 days of pounding to get about 20 feet down.
Also (and maybe this could vary by region), but I was warned not to go too deep; that you can go through and beyond the vein of water. It was recommended to me that ideally you want to be 4-5 feet into the water. I kept dropping a weighted string down the pipe and checking to see how much of the string was wet, until I got my proper depth.
@bradwaldoch194 I've also driven a steel well point here, hit a rock, and broke my well point. (I made a video about this). I wouldn't say pipe sunk "easily". You still needed 2000 PSI from the pressure washer to break up the clay and push up the sand. There's a lot of force going into the ground in order to make this happen. But the pressure washer makes it looks easy due to the high pressures
If I ever win a lottery I'm wanting to hire you.
Bad back limited fixed income etc
This was very cool to watch, even though I don't need a well. Our house sits on top of an underground stream, at the bottom of a hill, and a basement sump system pumps about 5 gallons of clear cold water every 10 minutes; a PVC pipe leads it down to the bottom of our property where it drains into a ditch and eventually into the town sewers. I have no idea how this was permitted; it was like this when we bought the house and we didn't ask any questions. Anyway, we don't drink the water but it's handy for irrigation and filling a big tub for cold outdoor baths during the very hottest part of the summer. Sooner or later I'll have the water tested and if it's clean, I'll use it to flow water through the coop so the chickens will have a near-constant flow of fresh, cold water and I won't need to be cleaning and refilling a bucket every 3-4 days!
Best recommendation I got in a while it's so refreshing to see this project, subscribed without question, thank you sir.
Hey brother, @7:22 , I had that issue but added a cap and drilled a hole large enough to fit pressure washer extension through and not the bulky end to prevent sticking.
in california just had my well dug. it was 397 feet before hitting water. ended up going down 435 feet.
wow!
What part of CA?
Need to witch with copper rods before you dig call it bs but I am at a property right now that gets 60-80gpm when the neighbors and everyone else around gets 5-15gpm the only difference is the person that dug this well picked the spot using witching rods
@@xxskitsxx15 Had a friend in heavy construction, showed how to use the rods, he used bent coat hangers. He was serious that it worked.
@@scottcrowley2061 it really does. This world is divine.
your video showed up as i was reviewing my video, punching down. i used a deep rock, and drilled 90 feet over some weeks. cold, rain, sleet, snow (i'm not the post office, i stayed in) and got water.
your project was simple, clean and i'm impressed by your thinking. the only recommendation i would make to you, is never pull your stem. in the cold, it will break when you try to replace it. if you ever have to pull it, use threaded sections so that you can pull it, and uncouple it. ya, it is a hassel, but replacing broken pvc is as well.
my bud out in west texas could not keep his sister from pulling 300 feet of pvc, and it all had to be replace and they had to hire a well servce to fish out the broken pipe.
good video, well done
you "used a deep rock." Are you saying you drilled through rock? if yes, How?? I'm also in TX and trying to figure out how to self drill through rock w/o a drill rig...
Lucky for you at lower elevations area. Here in San Jose California, I used an 4” abs 200ft deep, but haven’t see any water
The alfalfa farmers got it all
@@signifyingcracker3944Many such cases.
@@signifyingcracker3944 Yeah I saw a video about that awhile back. Criminal what they allowed them too do.
I did exactly the same thing and one night as I was taking a break and admiring my handy work with an ce cold Beer, I saw a huge snake appearing out of the brush and dissapearing into the plastic pipe. I thought is was probably just "clinging on for dear life" on the inside of the pipe, but NOPE, she was gone, all the way down about 65 feet down, SO, we only use the water for the garden and I swear I can smell dead snake everytime I put the pump on, but it could just be my imagination, LOL! Close that sucker up every night before you do anyting else or your water will take on the flavour/smell of dead snake or dead Rat.
@@acmhfmggruIn his defense, the snake did the poisoning by itself.
Not to mention the fermented snake juice, really got my surströmming fetish going last night. My wife kicked me out again, thanks a lot!! 😤
How do u know the snake was a she?
@@acmhfmggru lol
A chlorine tablets will help
Did you hook up and sink that steel pipe and nozzle the water is coming out of separately from the pump discharge ?
Yes, FYI I published a separate video that has a complete timelapse of everything.
I live in the country. Unfortunately my house is hooked up to a rural water district. When I first moved in the people who owned the house before me didn't pay their water bill for the last 2 months they were here. The rural water district made me pay THIER bill to get water turned on. Ever since then I've wanted to drill a well and get off their water. Would this work to supply water to a home?
Is it billed to the address or resident? If resident, they cannot legally bill you!
I have a capped well but no idea the condition or depth. House from 37 but cap doesn't look old. Septic cut looked pretty new moving in. Put back a woodstove where their was one before and a chimney in good shape so saved there getting that in with no permit. Out of funds for well now and probably a new septic field like before
I find it incredible that a house is built on such soft boggy ground, amazed its still standing 😮
Here in Scotland we just walk out our doors and get thousands of litres of water free, it falls from the sky!!!!!😂😂😂😂
This house has been here for over 100 years, no issues!
8 feet. Must be nice. In south texas we are somewhere around 60-400 ft to hit water.
Awesome!! Thanks for making this video. You literally saved yourself like $5000.00 where I live it's around $5000.00 to drill a 50 foot well lol I new it could be done as a DIY . 👍
Great video. I would suggest you make a call or for the top of the 2 inch drill pipe that will get the dirty water out away from the 4 inch casing right now. You have all the sludge going back down the 4 inch casing.
for that style pump would be best if you put a foot valve on the bottom of the 1 1/4 in pipe. pump will last longer and never lose its prime.
I'm using a check valve instead. There's a well point at the bottom of the 1-1/4 pipe so you can't put a foot valve there.
@@wachinpntdry.Spot on comment. My one house with shallow well had a foot valve with a casting hole that caused a lot of pump cycling as water drained back into the well. The check valve after the pump wont stop that.
My dad used a twist post hole digger with a tee handle and sections of extension and waterdown the hole to make easy mud . If you could pull out 6 or 8 inches dirt each time its like 100 scoops and only 50 of them are over 20 feet long . People help you when it gets bigger . Like rolling a snowball
Ps . The snowball gets so big it peels the turf up .😅 sound leally scrunchy like an elephant
Hope you are in a warm climate where it never freezes, otherwise everything will burst.
In cold climates, we build insulated pump-houses with a heat source for winters.
Things do get cold here, but since I only use for irrigation I just drain everything in November so it doesn't freeze
I live in NY and have a water well, and we don't have that. There is an iron cover over the well and that's all below ground, which I suppose provides some heat insulation.
@@artichoke60045 I think they primarily meant the pump, that can't stay out in freezing temps, you have to drain it and undo a little valve for expansion. We moved ours into our cellar in the end which worked out really well as it won't ever freeze down there.
A light bulb was more than enough most winters, way below we used a heater too. The way dad pulled wells in similar in the 50'. Worked fine!
The pump can easily be moved into the basement or insulated pump house
Don't forget to dump some "small" particle chlorine crystals down the well and let it sit over night. This is to sanitize the system. The next day let the water run for a while to flush the chlorine out. It will have the flavor for a while but it will clear up fairly quick. You can use liquid bleach but the crystals will sink to the bottom and sanitize all the way to the bottom.
I like it!! May have to give it a try.
I’d like to do this but there’s solid limestone bedrock about 6” below the soil so n my area.
Very resourceful- Lucky you didn't hit a large rock on the way down. Drillers will go on standby with their special core bit.
Hi, Question, Could you have just skipped the 20 feet of 4-inch pipe, since the 2-inch went down beyond that, then the 1 1/4-inch down further beyond that? Thanks!
Yes you could. I wanted a 4 inch casing to make the initial digging somewhat easier, and in order to install a well cap (which comes in 4 and 6 inch sizes) to keep out debris and stabilize the 1-1/4 in pipe. And some areas may require a casing of a certain diameter if you want it to be "legit". But no it's not technically required.
Should have put it over that roof of that building next to you and that way it would support that long length
while feeding.
Yes, or assembled it as he inserted it which he previously learned is easier in smaller sections.
This was super interesting to watch. 40ft for water and dug by hand seems unbelievable when compared to the shenanigans that go on in India.
In my city (and a lot of india), water is a big issue. Just about every single house has a borewell which really depletes the water table.
In my ~500 family apartment complex, all the borewells ran out in the summer. A new one was drilled and finally hit water at around 1600 feet, which is frankly absurd.
Great watching video... would be excellent for us in the villages all over Papua new Guinea. Thank you sir.
That was interesting, but you got really lucky. I've seen people with metal sand point wells hammering with sledgehammers and still only getting their well pipe down at a rate of one inch for every 25 hits with the sledgehammer. You were blessed with soft subsoil and no obstructive rocks.
Well I tried first with driving a sandpoint and had a similar experience. I didn't get nearly as far with that method.
In the future you could add a hand pump in case you’re ever in a no-power situation for an extended length of time
Yea I've always wanted a hand pump, haven't gotten around to installing one
Add a compressor hose with a .25" jet at 100psi + attached to the side of or the pressure washer line. I also add a vacuum line with screen. Works great.
water at 8 ft? huh you next to the river?
You could feed the other end of the pressure washer hose through the pipe before you put it in and add extensions. No ladder needed. Much easier.
Well that assumes you already have some idea how deep the hole will go. I had no idea how far I would go before I started.
Thanks for doing this. It is awesome. There was a spring on my property that went dry after some construction in the area. I may try to use this technique to restart it.
Sometimes they will use a technique called dewatering to suck out all the surface water in order to build a foundation. It should return over time, but also you can just try digging deeper and find the water where it is.
Could you tell me for the Ryobi pressure washer, where did you get the additional black hose that would fit with the machine and also was the straight metal shaft that digs the ground, is it included or did you buy separate? I am trying to shop at Home Depot. Thanks
I don't know what the exact parts would be for Home Depot, but the hose is linked in the description, and this is the metal wand that I used: amzn.to/3Tm3SNu.
@@BadHomeowner Thank you so much, exactly what I was looking for.
That was most cool. tHanks for the video.
(I've wanted to drill horizontally to put in a drain. The idea is to go about ten feet and end up with a 4" pipe. My problem: I think about it too much and don't experiment with drilling techniques. tHanks again for the video!)
I wonder how much better galvanized and threaded fittings would work in rocky soil. Where I would dig has a high water table next to a creek and what used to be the creek and prior owner had a well there at maybe 10 ft deep?
40 feet till water... LOL!
dude you are so blessed!
The only thing I would change is putting 2 or 3 screws in the PVC joints...glue can fail and if your way down there and its stuck.....
PVC glue never fails, if done right. I would not fracture the pvc with a hole for a screw, that would create weak spots that could fail.
the PVC glue used on PVC is a chemical welding.
Primed and glued PVC joints are stronger than the pipe itself. Purple primer is cheaper than good screws.
Don't try to out-engineer the engineers, you'll only hurt yourself.
Do you think it is enough to supply a small home...? Bathing, dishwashing, laundry...?
Absolutely not. Not only would u not want to wash dishes or shower with this water u wouldn’t have enough to run a small home. Water at only 37 foot depth still has toxins and heavy metals and parasites and bacteria in it not to mention chemical run off from the surrounding houses .This would all need to be filtered.
This is so helpful and such a great video. Thank you for taking the time to make it, you're doing God's work for real.
You can do steel pipe and just push up and down with a regular hose filling water in the spot
our water is 350ft down what are my options?
I'd spend the money on calling a company out. It'd sure be a lot though.
Dig 351ft well
If you get down into blue clay, get yourself some "clay cutter". It's a additive to put into the water, that breaks down the clay. We use it in hdd. Works like a charm. Or you can use the less expensive but way more messy but also way more fun option and just use dishsoap.
I'll try that next time. I'm digging another well in a few weeks.
Well, well, well, this just came up in my flow for some reason.
Me too - just popped in! Like me, you are a sucker for the next crazy project!
I would really like to see how you hooked up all of the plumbing. Great video!!
I go into some more detail on that in this video: ruclips.net/video/PGjU2Csw26Q/видео.html
LOL. water table is like 300' down out West and it's all rock to get there. The idea that you could use a hand auger and a pressure washer to even get 10' down is hilarious.
Of course "out west", depends where you are and the water table.
What's even more hilarious is that you have no idea where the man is and your assessment is wrong anyway. I've drilled several wells in the west. Maybe if you're not knowledgeable, you should be quiet.
Same here, no way. But I hope tons of people do this. Great stuff
@@jimibmorein Arizona you wont find water within a hundred feet of the surface unless you are in floodplain like buckeye but that water is all old farm runoff loaded with chemicals.
I think the point is that any water regardless of depth should be tested for toxins, chemicals, and any harmful substances.
If you have to go through limestone, do you have to have a more industrial drill?
Strong work, thank you for the concrete details and inspiration.
I thought shallow well pump can only pull water from 25 foot how would you manage to put water from 40 foot with a simple shallow well pump? Thank you
I answer this here: ruclips.net/video/RHVqbrsPRVk/видео.html
Nice for the Prairie areas, but I live in the Mountains where everything is 20% dirt, 80% rocks!
and in the mountains you have gullies and run off etc etc
Arizona here. Impossible to install using this method in our area. We don’t even have basements. Unless you use dynamite.
@@georgevanaken925 I heard it is against the law to collect rain water in AZ is that true?
@@tiswhatitiz You’re “allowed” to collect rainwater on your property in Arizona.
Use water condensation towers , there is water everywhere 😊
Is it just massive luck that you don't hit any large rocks as you drill down?
I have hit a rock before, and I answer this question here: ruclips.net/video/RHVqbrsPRVk/видео.html
Great video job well done the horse next to well good idea what is the electrical voltage on your pump?
This pump works on either 110/220 volts.
Nice video, but I am confused. You say you need a check valve that looks to be mounted above ground. How does this keep the well pipe primed? I have only used foot valves for this with jet pumps.
Same way as a foot valve. like how if you stick a straw in your soda and then put your finger on the top of it, you can pick up the straw and the liquid stays in the straw.... same thing here.
Turns out it doesn't matter where on the pipe the check valve is. Can be at the top, bottom, or in the middle. It'll work just the same.
I like the check valve at the top because it's much easier to access for maintenance purposes.
If you use some plywood with some old inner tube around the pipe will help you alot ,,I did this 50 years ago junky pump & old pipe ,,all that was available!!
Your cuttings are coming up your drill string running over the top and going back down the annulus. It would be better if you could also pump higher volume low pressure water down the drill string forcing cuttings up the annulus to clean the hole. Put a t at the top of your 4” surface casing and add a flow line to direct returns away from the well.
Yea that's a good point and I talk about it here: ruclips.net/video/R8D3_EgZSSA/видео.html
We have a great well and pump right now however the pump is 3 phase so I'm going to build a backup system that I can either run on a generator or a simple hand pump. This video is awesome and I can't wait to start my new well. Thanks for posting 🇺🇲
3 phase converters to run 3 phase motors on single phase electrical service are widely available and may save you time & tomfoolery.
This works in Florida, with home depot bits and modest prayers. water is just a few feet below your feet;