For years my old farm house no one lived in it but I went out there lots time in summer. Every year I would pay a plumber $60.00 year just to drain my pipes so would not freeze. Finally honest plumber came out and showed me cut water off going to house then open all faucets flush toilet and they would not freeze. I was so thankful to him.
@@SooSmokie ...but you have to know what to Google, and to even realize there is something you should be googling! For instance, when smart phones were invented, you would never have thought to look for something you did not know existed - you had to hear about it first.
@@iamamish i mean you can google how to drain water lines in house and find multiple answers. I literally tought myself how to re-plumb my entire house in a week or so. It's really a matter of whether you can teach yourself something. It's really whether you're willing to learn or not. Some people just refuse to teach themselves something unless they have it put in plain terms for them
Yeah really, isn't the aweful! School costs alot! Paying for an apartment, getting up early for class, paying back loans for computers! And lots more! So happy for modern ways!
I’ve been building a small homestead for a couple of years now. This is the most thorough, accurate, clear cut, informed, humble, and easy to understand tutorial I’ve ever watched. Not only well driving, but on any construction project. And I’ve watched hundreds of videos. I’m also in medical school. For the love of God, could you please come in and teach a couple lectures on cardiac surgery?
Just came across this video. Excellent advice throughout. A couple thoughts from this retiree's former experience: 1. First and foremost, the presentation on maximum water depth is spot on. If the water table is below 25 feet from the ground surface, suction lift hand pumps are not practical. 2. Make sure you are in an area where the water table is in unconsolidated sediments, sands and such. No bedrock. Some areas with sand also can contain some rocks, you may have to move the well location a few times. 3. Ask around to see if the shallow groundwater is readily drinkable without treatment. In some areas, the shallow groundwater can have high solids content, odor, bad taste, you name it. Most areas will have good water. But no guarantees either way, it's worth checking beforehand. 4. Well point drive/slide hammers are available commercially. I've used them in groundwater work. Search "piezometer point slide hammer" or "well point drive hammer" and you can find them. If you buy a groundwater industry product, be prepared for some sticker shock, as they'll likely be a few hundred dollars. As an alternative, look into fence post and T-post drivers from vendors such as Tractor Supply. IMPORTANT - whatever you buy, make sure the working diameter of the hammer fits with the well pipe diameter you're using. I don't know enough to specify a specific hammer for a specific well pipe, sorry. Maybe other viewers can? I always used matched slide hammer/piping/well points from groundwater supply vendors in my work, but again but this would be an expensive route to take and there are alternative products. 5. Hopefully you'll never have to remove the well. Great points were discussed in this video regarding the evils of soil pressure and friction associated with the couplings and the well point. It will likely not be easy but more often than not it can be done. The tripod suggestion is on target, a rigged winch/come-along can work. For safety's sake - watch those cables and stay clear, there will be a lot of tension. If you are fortunate and end up with a working slide hammer, you can also add a length of well pipe extension above ground, slip the hammer over it, add the threaded drive cap, and pound upwards instead of downward as when you installed the well. Again, all hammer/pipe/cap diameters must work with each other. But at this point you'll know if this will work if you successfully used this method to install the well. 6. If you're in an area with nearby industry, gas stations, feedlots, etc. make your first call to the local or state environmental protection office. They will have information as to whether there are any known sources of groundwater contamination in your area. Don't put your well anywhere near your septic system's leach field! Regarding the first three items - initial information sources can include the usual suspects (family, friends and neighbors). Local feed stores, hardware stores that sell the points might work. County agricultural extension offices, local county or state environment protection offices may work, also the State Geologist's office. Local engineering or environmental consulting firms are a possibility. Be patient if contacting these offices, as finding that right person may take some doing. Some scientists and engineers love helping the public when a non-routine question such as this comes up, others not so much! Be careful with providing TMI as the subject of permitting may come up with certain regulatory offices. If you don't wish to contact the government offices because of privacy concerns, you could instead do a computer search on ground water quality in ___ County ___ State. Similar search for groundwater depth. Naming convention as to whether to use "groundwater" or "ground water," one or two words? Use both alternatives in your searching. Apologies for rambling, hope this helps. Good luck!
So a good way to get this data without triggering permitting agencies is to ask for a water quality report? Map? I’m looking for property and doing research on what data to look for and where. I want to make sure the water I use for my small plot homestead will be safe for my family & animals. Thank you for taking the time to write your comments.
I previously looked up water table depths for an acquifer (since our ground water higher up seems to be seasonal). It's over 120 feet deep. Is there a way to do this without hiring a rig and having all kinds of permits come with it? (By law, they have to register any wells they drill.) and what kkind of pump is useful then? Something with an internal screw going down the pipe, as it seems from this video that there's a limit to a lift/suction pump to 25-30 feet.
@@salsa090968 You can call the local or state environmental agency and ask about water quality in your County. Their web sites can contain useful info as well. You are interested in buying property and are screening general locations. Ask if there are any maps that show known contaminated areas or specific sites/locations (one example that comes to mind - present and former gas stations).
Thanks for the video. Lack of clean drinking water has killed more people than smallpox. Your video is the best I have seen on this subject. Does that mean you just saved more lives than curing smallpox? I think that is worth a thumbs up for this guy.
I have 1 question. WHY AM I JUST NOW LEARNING ABOUT THIS!!!! Been a prepper my entire life. Watch youtube every day and Im just now coming across this. Thank RUclips algorithm! Good job.
Nice job, on your tutorial. I have a couple of points, however. 1.) If you use Teflon tape, and pipe dope on top, you will have a great seal, and IF you have to take it apart, for some reason(You probably will, your first time.), then the tape will minimize the mess. Also, I have been around pipe dope and Teflon tape for more than 30 years, and I have seen them BOTH leak, but I have NEVER seen the combination of the two leak. On another note, I prefer the grey pipe dope. It is less apt to cracking with age. 2.) There is such a thing, called a "Fence Post Hammer", that will work for your "well hammer". Good job.
I spent a great deal of time doing plumbing when i renovated bathrooms. Most jobs we just did the plumbing since it wasn't anything major, my boss taught me to always wrap teflon several times around the thread and then spread a layer of silicon around that.
We had a post hammer, but I think one of the workers my dad uses on the farm “misplaced” it. If you have neighbors with a post driver tractor attachment, it makes real short work of any pole/post driving job.
Best technology video ever . . . . no serious . . . engineers and tech people love to know how things work. I was held fascinated by the engineering and design tech of old school water wells.
You guys have no idea how much y’all have changed our lives. Through your super instructional videos, we’ve gained the confidence to start doing things on our own and have since built two rooms, saved tons of money and are getting ready to implement a hand pump and who knows what else. I just want to say thank you so much to you and Brooke for your time.
Drove about 3 of these when I lived in Michigan! The guy who recommended not adding pipe dope to the first few threads!? He’s right! This is a damn good video!
This was excellent! And I like the way you were not goofy, silly, or trying to act like a comedian and telling stupid jokes or acting like a fool, which unfortunately far too many RUclipsrs engage in. And another huge thumbs up for not playing background music to further annoy your viewers. And you got right into the content without telling us your life story first. First class presentation.
So thankful for this. My wife and I are moving to our property this coming Tuesday. We have no water, no electricity. Thank you for making this. I am installing next week. I'll let ya know how it goes. 💪🙏
I moved off grid in southern Colorado about ten years ago, drilled a 120 feet deep well and had a Grundfos solar powered pump installed. Best ten grand I ever spent.
You can buy a pipe driver. Look for the very heavy steel tee post driver. Don’t bother with the light weight ones. Mine is about 30 pounds but is longer than what you are using. At 14 feet I hit blue clay and it was pretty tough going until I broke through that at 20 feet. After that it was fairly easy. Took most of one day but I’m no spring chicken at nearly 70. Good video.
Did this 30 years ago on my farm in Indiana. This covered everything very well. This is by far the best explanation / tutorial I have ever seen. Great job!!!
Well, I clicked on this just because I find the subject interesting. Currently, I have a motorized pump setup from a previous owner that seems to be either dried up or the screen down there is clogged. I ttried to pull the pipe using a come a long and rail road ties for an A frame but it didn’t budge. Only the come a longe handle bent so I left it. I’d like to get it going again so now I have the incentive to pick a new spot now that I’m here with great info on the subject. I’m going to install a well after the current freeze simply because everything covered here is so true, easy to follow and understand. For anyone reading, please know this information can’t be found in a simple search and can be applied to many aspects. Please also know, the wealth of information here is worth saving. So save the video, write it down, record it, do whatever you can do to keep it so you can refer to it. Thank you so much for posting. May God Bless.
Try driving it an inch or so.. kinda like tightening a stuck bolt a smidge, to get it to break loose. Also an old time car jack- high lift- and a length of chain wrapped around the pipe, sometimes works for extracting. Junkyard best spot to find them anymore!!
@@tomgrams2333 Hi Tom: I tried a 10 lb. sledge until it mushroomed. I put a pipe wrench on there with a 6’ piece of 1” black pipe to twist while my friend pounded. No go. Next time I’ll drill a 5/8” hole in there with a bolt to grab on with a hydraulic pull ram that I have left over from my body shop days. If that doesn’t work, I’ll have to find another spot. Thanks for helping me. May God Bless.
All these years wasting time watching Netflix or playing video games while raising 4 kids on my own. I LOVE learning and your show is really fun. Now Im not only watching yours but others that help me learn the things I want to learn. Yours was the first. LOVE it!
A very good instruction on well points. 50+ years ago my father and I installed several of them(from Sears). My father made an adapter for his jack hammer to drive the point and pipe. I stood in the bucket of the loader, with the jackhammer to drive the point down. Dad lowered the bucket as the pipe went into the ground. It worked well. This was before OSHA. Good Luck, Rick
Bought a 100 yr old colonial house and found a old well. Went to the archives for the county and found out it was the first hand dug well in the area which would make sense since it is just outside the old carriage house. Your video is very helpful with the pump itself. Thank you
I’ve been building a small homestead for a couple of years now. This is the most thorough, accurate, clear cut, informed, humble, and easy to understand tutorial I’ve ever watched. Not only well driving, but on any construction project. And I’ve watched hundreds of videos. I’m also in medical school. For the love of God, could you please come in and teach a couple lectures on cardiac surgery? 764 Reply
An old timer plumber told me that if I wanted to have 100% no leak fittings, was to use Teflon Tape AND Pipe Dope, so that's what I do from now on. Never had a leak ever after that. Great video Dave !!
@@JM-yx1lm, That's exactly what he told me to do to make every connection 100% no leaks from the beginning. Wrap a couple times with Teflon, then dope over the tape. I've had leaks with just Teflon, and leaks with just dope, but never with both. Some people are lucky and never have any leaks using just one, but not me. Lol.
This video is the most comprehensive explanation of a point well installation I have ever seen. Answered all my questions and more. Excellent job. Keep making your videos. You are a natural teacher. Thank you!
One of the best videos I have ever seen. You should be a teacher or a instructor. You were very thorough and I give an A+ for your efforts! Thank you so much!
Nice video. Very helpful. I’m looking forward to doing mine. Note for everyone: divining rods are complete fiction and aren’t based on anything other than gullibility. Don’t waste your time or money. They only play on human psychology. The local DNR and government water authority will have all of the data and science you need to make a good estimate. Hope everybody enjoys again. I love the video. Thank you very much for the help.
New subscriber, because this is one of the BEST videos I've ever seen on RUclips. I'm a university professor, but you're a better teacher than I will ever be.
We're digging out an old well and I think we're going to use this exact setup. I'm glad you mentioned the smooth bore being perhaps the biggest difference between American made and those overseas. The ball valve is genius and so is washing out the pipes before putting them in the ground.
I’m getting ready to do a hand pump well and am so grateful that God led me to your video. Thank you for such complete, clear and concise info on parts needed and each step in the process. You are a Godsend.
Many years ago an old timer told me that you can tell you are into water if you dump water into the pipe and it goes down . The faster the pipe takes water the better the well . Great video! Brought back good memories of the cabin at Rose City ,MI.
Couple of tips I have for you. Your drive coupling the one your going to replace , always keep it tight or it will split when driving. A nice size engine flywheel welded to an axle shaft makes a good driver. A person on each side lifting and dropping the flywheel makes good work. I have pulled new wells with a log and a piece of chain and a large block. Lay down the block close to the well pipe to set the log on, adjust to get good leverage. Hook the chain around the end of the log close to well pipe. Have one person lift the end of the log opposite of the well pipe. Wrap the chain two wraps around well pipe the push down on the log. Pipe will lift out of the ground. Keep repeating sliding the chain down on the well pipe each time. I hope this method makes sense to you. Thanks for your videos. ATB
Wow.. It's always nice to get info from someone who has actually done it. Not read about it in a book. Very thorough with your explanation. Thanks Dave
On the ball valve when you drain it for freezing. Leave the valve cracked half way as the “ball” WILL hold water freeze and break!!! I have replaced MANY!!! Great vid!!!
There is a hand hydrant valve assembly that has a 5 foot pipe with a check valve under the frost line i guess that would not work with a non pressurized water source just wondering if that would work with a picture pump
I think that the no pipe dope on the 1st 2 threads tip is a great tip. For all applications, like hydraulics, air, or gas. Even for Nitrogen gas used for laser cutting. This whole video is full of great tips.
I have worked with these for a few years. Your explanation was fantastic. I like your style and the way you addressed those areas you were not comfortable discussing. In my area, the ground water is quite hard which requires replacement of the well point every so often. I have 2 points: one in the ground and one waiting. When I must replace, I pull the pipes out, swap the point and reinstall. I take the one just received and treat it with a bath of CLR rust remover inside a section of pvc pipe I keep on hand for just that job. This dissolves all the growths off the silt screen and reconditions the point for return to service [after a good cleansing].
Dave, A+ on the instructional. Clear, concise, and to the point. My biggest pet peeve with YT creators is the unnecessary blathering of unnecessary information. You sir, are the epitome of what creators should aspire to. You got my subscription and looking forward to exploring your channel further.
Good to have someone presenting this kind of information without any b.s. or dramatics. Especially now, knowing how to do things like this can...and will.. be the difference between life and death. Making use of modern technology is great and I hope we never see the time when it's not available... but someday.. next week..next year..whenever, wherever... when the shtf... well... better to have and not need than to need and not have. Remember: Those who will not use the brains and skills they have are no better off than those who have none. They are by their own choice subject to the will and control of those who would be their masters. Your life. Your choice.
Don't leave many comments for tubers but you are the senpai of explanation. I am attracted to the fact that you basically answer any question without the need of any questions... With this video I am sure a CAVEMAN can do this! Surprised I haven't found you sooner! Thank you very much for your effort best wishes to you and your family.
That was an excellent description of how to drive a well. I use to help my father drive wells in the 50’s in Arkansas. He did it the same way. He made his own driver. He took a 40” piece of 6” pipe with a driving cap and then poured about 75 lbs. babbitt in the pipe. This would give you a longer stroke when driving the pipe.
Old plumber turned me on to rectoseal number 5. It is much better seal and lasts forever. I could not find an old pump so I took a cylinder hone and cleaned up the bore. If you open the ball valve all the way you can trap water behind the jacket and it will crack, always leave ball valves slightly open over winter... Great video, I really appreciate all the information. You're increasing My carpentry confidence!!
Hello there, through all the thousands of the messages i want to thank you for the easy information and for the video to make viewers like me to understand how to make a well around the house. One of the best tutorial i got. May God bless you and the family
My grandfather had a pitcher pump outside the farmhouse. . Kept a can of water to seal the leather washer...always had that iron flavor....no extra money for stainless or brass pipe. Poor as dirt.
Great video, It is not usual for anyone to talk on a point such as this and remain interesting. Your plan is right on the money and steps understandable. The extra tips about the joint compound, and cleaning out the pipes is on the one, because I would not have known or thought about that until after I installed the pipes and pump . Those are the things that will make a big difference with the taste of the water which are very important to me when I drink the water. I have to say again, you made a nice instructional video and it shows. So many tubers are now concentrating on fluff, instead of strong, interesting, and thought out content. Nice job! Now I can install my well and pump like a pro.
One good reason to drive a 2" stand of pipe is that the larger inside diameter gives you room to run a liner sleeve inside if your 2" pipe develops a leak over time. Let's say you drive a well with 2" diameter pipe, and over 10 years, the screen in your drive point wears out and you get sand/silt in the bottom. You can run inside with a 1" pipe stand and jet out the sand. Then you can run a liner inside and re-complete your well with a smaller I.D.
We have a high water level in my area. We all ready have a pump but if, and when the grid goes down, we may need this. I have an old well pump...I think it is in fine shape. But, I will have it checked by the man who cleaned my well. You created an AWESOME video, and I have been concerned about the water in my prepping plan. My husband is not on board, so it is frustrating as my children are not in the immediate vicinity, and I am IT in terms of the research, gathering, planning and close to freaking outing LOL. Thank you for your help. Note...when my best friend got divorced, she, and the one she called on, me, to help her replace a headlight, etc. She called me one day, and I went over. She had the pipes of the sink apart, as she had dropped an earring in there. Now, she couldn't get it back together. I said, "We can probably do this, but when Jerry, (My husband) does this, he uses this white plumber's tape". We did get the pipes together, and I seriously mistakenly got that tape the right direction. Voila...No leaks. My husband always had to leave one leak.I was so ready to get a Plumbers license LOL.
WOW. I watch a lot of youtube videos on everything from woodworking, to auto repair, to homesteading, and this is the best edited, most clear, most complete video I've ever watched. Great job!! Subscribed.
When I drove mine, I took a 3” heavy wall pipe about 3’ long and welded a 16lb sledgehammer head to the end so it fit over the well point pipe to drive it, worked perfectly.
Back when I was a kid we drove a well for the cottage we were building. As soon as you gave that taste test I could remember how that first water tasted out of our newly driven well. It lasted for about a month. Also it seems like the older pitcher pumps had a bit longer stroke on them. Thanks for taking that pump apart and showing how they work especially with the leathers. Great visual aid. Hope you and your family have an excellent Fall season.
yup:new pumps got like 5 pumps in 1...alot leathers and go like 60 feet: more softer slow pumps but just keeps going/waters keep comeing at slower rate /smaller pipe :>)
I'm in central Minnesota and have put in close to a dozen of these Wells and had to watch your video and I've got to say nice job overall exactly what I do
I threaded my own pipe, used regular couplings, used a regular pipe cap to drive it. Not only did it go in at 18 feet of rocks and gravel, but it came out again five years later, with no damage. They're pretty tough. Keep turning clockwise as you are driving it.
Man I’m so glad I found your channel, and this video. We’ve been talking about doing a hand pump well for years, but never really knew how to get started. We have an old pump house that has a hand pump from the early 1900s, and I’ve always wanted to try to restore it but again… never really knew how. Now I do. Keep making great content man, this is probably some of the best videos on RUclips. Glad there are guys like you out there, doing this kind of stuff and then teaching the rest of us how we can too.
Dude! You're seriously the best teacher EVER!!! Your videos are going to be our GO-TO spot for everything we need to do at our new property! Thank you and Brooke for sharing your expertise! Can't wait to keep watching all your projects at your new property. Have fun!
The fitting you had in your right hand is actually what it called black iron which is a malleable iron, not recommended for drinking water and has a lacquer coating that helps prevent it from rusting for a short time, typically black iron is used for hydronic heating. The one is your left looks like stainless steel. Stainless steel is used is a wide variety of applications and is food safe. For your pipe dope I would recommend teflon tepe+leak lock. (leak lock comes in a bright blue container) Really good stuff imo and is potable water safe.
I grew up with these type of pumps and you just gave the best explanation of the complete operation of how these pumps work . I like the closing valve .
Of all the tutorials I have EVER seen, this guy is the best instructor I've watched! Man, you should do instructional videos every day!! You are great at what you do. Thank you!
A great explanation of how these pumps work. 60 years ago, my dad installed a 25' driven well in the garage of our house, where no one could see it, and we had potable water after hurricanes. Worked fine. I never knew until lately I grew up homesteading, prepping, and doing bushcraft. I just thought we were poor. I'd have held my head up more if I knew back then doing what poor people do would become trendy. As much as I like your videos, you're kind of a cowboy (I'm sure you've been told that before, and are aware it's part of your appeal), and I do wish you would recommend your viewers check permit requirements in their local areas. These guys are considered a Class IIIC well in Virginia (driven, less than 50', used for drinking water). - Permit required? Yeppers! - Grouting required? You betcha! - Could the hand pump be, by design, a violation of the "no unprotected openings into the interior of the well" clause? Depends on the mood of your inspector.
Thank You for the great video. We plan to put this type of well in as a backup to our electric pump driven well. Preppers gotta do what preppers gotta do.
I love these videos. They make me smile as I live in AZ and water is 1000+ feet down. I remember the days when I was in NY when the water was at the surface.
Great video! Thx! Best way to pull stubborn pipe well pipe is to use a heavy duty hydraulic car floor jack (2 ton or so) or just a regular hydraulic jack, wrap a chain around top collar of pipe, and the other on the end of the jack and jack it upward. You can use wood or the like as a base for the jack so it won't sink into the ground. Usually once you get the pipe moving, it gets easier and you can just keep cinching the chain down the pipe as it rises. 😉👍
You can buy a 1-1/4" brass one way check valve and install under the pump (before or after your manual valve) This keeps prime without the need to operate the manual valve each time. (The check valve is also available at menards, same location/isle as the well drive couplings.) When I did my well a few years ago I also installed a "T" under the valves. The T also has a check valve and shutoff valve which is then plumbed to a shallow well jet pump. On demand water just like a normal well.
I have the same amount of experience with driving wells that you had before you made your first video. I've pumped a lot of wells but never put one in, so learning a bit about the process was pretty cool. Thanks for taking us along for the ride. I will say it again, you guys are living my dream with your place in the UP.
I’m going to attempt to go 100ft because I can’t afford a professional with a drilling rig, any suggestions would be very much appreciated? Thank you , I learned so much! Getting to old to keep drinking & filling up my 2, 100 gallon containers!
If you can pull water 25ft you’ve done well. The best I’ve done was 22ft and I’ve put in a few. I made my own driver and it works great. Imagine a fire extinguisher with the bottom cut off and two rebar arms. I poured in about 40 pounds of lead and welded a plate over the lead and it’s been great. That’s probably a bit difficult to envision. I did an up grade by welding a steel rod to the plate in the extinguisher and drilled a hole thru the drive cap. Keeps me centered on the pipe. Your spot on about cleaning out the pipe and watching out for to much pipe dope! Nothing like a glass of oily tainted water. Long winded I know but if you tie a weight to one end of a string and a clean rag on the other end you can just drop the weight thru the pipe and pull the rag thru. This is by far the most informative video I’ve seen on the topic.
Thank you for producing this video! This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen on youtube!!! You were informative, direct, to the point, explained everything really “well” and made it easy to understand for someone like me who is not very mechanical. I wish more content producers were able and willing to make videos like you!
Excellent Dave!! Thank you!! My husband watched with me.. I keep asking for this to be installed on our property.. Maybe it will happen now! Thank you!
70 odd years ago my parents had a pulley and a long cylinder (galvanized, I think). At the bottom of this cylinder was a cork like thing and when the water bucket hit the water it would turn and allow the cylinder to fill up with water and slowly close. Then we would pull the cylinder on the pulley and empty the water into a bucket. I suppose they hand dug to get to the water initially. I just remember it was the BEST water and so cold. This was in South Alabama. My Aunt had a hand pump well. Thank you for sharing ALL of the info .
If your leathers are dry, you can use up that gallon of prime water without getting your pump primed unless you take steps to conserve the water. When you are priming, you should raise the pump handle all the way before pouring in water. Then only push the handle down an inch or so while you are pumping. You can make short strokes up and down with the pump handle near the top end of it's travel and keep your prime water in the pump. If you push the handle all the way down, you empty the water above the plunger out of the pump. I listen for the sound of a bubble coming through the water in the pump each time I raise the pump handle that inch of travel. That's air leaving the column. When the bubbling stops and the pumping is suddenly harder, you're done. Raise the handle all the way to the limit and you might lose prime again though. Hopefully, your leathers will be swollen enough by then to seal and pump out the air.
My well is 26' and I use a hand pump to bring water up to the top of the well pipe in the springtime before I hook up my electric well pump. Water is held at the top of the pipe with a second check valve (I have one at the well point and another at the top of the pipe). That helps me get water to the top easier but the pumping is still noticeably more difficult.
Thank you for sharing. Witching with welding rod helps find water. Also looking for a few wide leaf plants in a area, is a good indication there is activity of water.
Thank you for this video. Just recently got the ability to move out into the country. We now have well water and septic and I have no experience with either. My grandparents had both but unfortunately my grandfather is no longer around to ask all the questions. We have to redo both and this is some great info to add into the mix, thank you.
Please make sure you have your septic pumped every two to three years, or the results will be a nightmare. If not pumped out regularly, all that icky goo will back up into your house, and you sure don't want that! If you are using the old system at all it would be wisdom to have it pumped out right now since you may not know when it was last done. Call a local septic company, and they can let you know the frequency that it should be done. Last time I had mine done, it cost @ $200.
Used to have a hand pump at my grandparents cabin we kids love to get water and on the way back with the pail we would twirl the pail to see if water would stay in the pail. Good memories. Thanks very informative. 😊🇺🇸
I don't know if it's been mentioned, but make sure your ball valve is made of lead-free brass / rated for potable water. You don't want lead leaching into your drinking water. Probably not a big deal but worth mentioning. (Brass often has lead added because it improved machinability enormously.) Stainless Steel would also work well.
@@mauricesmith4270 that's not true at all. Plenty of leaded brass fittings on the shelf. I've even had to sign a thing at the hardware store stating that I would not use it for potable water.
Finally someone took the initiative to speak about a simple hand driven well w pitcher pump. My oleman taught me how to do when I was 10. He told me then...Son you may need to know how to do this one day , if power goes down or maybe you buy a piece of land and need water or to check the water. Having a pitcher pump , pipe and point may make you a King one day He who has access to clean water will have the advantage. Gotta have it!
Your video was a God sent. We have the the remains of 2 wells. One right inside the garage and 1 outside. We can hear the water in the one inside the garage. We just didnt know how to bring the water up. I believe your video may have solved our problem. Got to give it a try. THANKS
i watched you all install this set up and have been waiting for some follow up like this to explain the nitty gritty, so thanks for the pertinent info. i appreciate that.
Great video! I'll be doing this soon. If you need to pull a well/pipes up. Use a T-Post puller. They sell them at Harbor Freight for about $40. It would work great.
I've watched quite a few videos on this subject. Wanting to learn what supplies would be needed. You sir have done that best video explaing the parts and process. Thank you for the information
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For years my old farm house no one lived in it but I went out there lots time in summer. Every year I would pay a plumber $60.00 year just to drain my pipes so would not freeze. Finally honest plumber came out and showed me cut water off going to house then open all faucets flush toilet and they would not freeze. I was so thankful to him.
No shame in that. Nobody knows everything and we all need help now and then. It's called being a human
@@357bullfrog9 exactly! Even though you can google the info in seconds and people are too stupid to do so, But yeah, no shame...lol
@@SooSmokie ...but you have to know what to Google, and to even realize there is something you should be googling! For instance, when smart phones were invented, you would never have thought to look for something you did not know existed - you had to hear about it first.
@@iamamish i mean you can google how to drain water lines in house and find multiple answers. I literally tought myself how to re-plumb my entire house in a week or so. It's really a matter of whether you can teach yourself something. It's really whether you're willing to learn or not. Some people just refuse to teach themselves something unless they have it put in plain terms for them
Honesty with integrity. Beautiful knowing some will give, expecting nothing in return.
I honestly feel like l just attended an advanced college level class in well digging and maintenance. You sir are a natural born teacher! Thank you.
Well said. He's definitely good at relaying information.
Yeah really, isn't the aweful! School costs alot! Paying for an apartment, getting up early for class, paying back loans for computers! And lots more! So happy for modern ways!
I’ve been building a small homestead for a couple of years now. This is the most thorough, accurate, clear cut, informed, humble, and easy to understand tutorial I’ve ever watched. Not only well driving, but on any construction project. And I’ve watched hundreds of videos.
I’m also in medical school. For the love of God, could you please come in and teach a couple lectures on cardiac surgery?
Yes, what you said!!!
😂😂😂
I thought the same thing! Excellent instruction. Clear, smart, easy.
Homemadedriver you can buy at Amazon. Com
I find it interesting that a prospective do tor wants to homestead. How did you come to that?
This is one of the best RUclips tutorials I have ever watched.
I helped my dad dig 5 shallow wells in the 60s and 70s. They still work!
Sycamore trees.... are a sign of water.... your video was the best advice! Thanks!
Just came across this video. Excellent advice throughout. A couple thoughts from this retiree's former experience:
1. First and foremost, the presentation on maximum water depth is spot on. If the water table is below 25 feet from the ground surface, suction lift hand pumps are not practical.
2. Make sure you are in an area where the water table is in unconsolidated sediments, sands and such. No bedrock. Some areas with sand also can contain some rocks, you may have to move the well location a few times.
3. Ask around to see if the shallow groundwater is readily drinkable without treatment. In some areas, the shallow groundwater can have high solids content, odor, bad taste, you name it. Most areas will have good water. But no guarantees either way, it's worth checking beforehand.
4. Well point drive/slide hammers are available commercially. I've used them in groundwater work. Search "piezometer point slide hammer" or "well point drive hammer" and you can find them. If you buy a groundwater industry product, be prepared for some sticker shock, as they'll likely be a few hundred dollars. As an alternative, look into fence post and T-post drivers from vendors such as Tractor Supply. IMPORTANT - whatever you buy, make sure the working diameter of the hammer fits with the well pipe diameter you're using. I don't know enough to specify a specific hammer for a specific well pipe, sorry. Maybe other viewers can? I always used matched slide hammer/piping/well points from groundwater supply vendors in my work, but again but this would be an expensive route to take and there are alternative products.
5. Hopefully you'll never have to remove the well. Great points were discussed in this video regarding the evils of soil pressure and friction associated with the couplings and the well point. It will likely not be easy but more often than not it can be done. The tripod suggestion is on target, a rigged winch/come-along can work. For safety's sake - watch those cables and stay clear, there will be a lot of tension. If you are fortunate and end up with a working slide hammer, you can also add a length of well pipe extension above ground, slip the hammer over it, add the threaded drive cap, and pound upwards instead of downward as when you installed the well. Again, all hammer/pipe/cap diameters must work with each other. But at this point you'll know if this will work if you successfully used this method to install the well.
6. If you're in an area with nearby industry, gas stations, feedlots, etc. make your first call to the local or state environmental protection office. They will have information as to whether there are any known sources of groundwater contamination in your area. Don't put your well anywhere near your septic system's leach field!
Regarding the first three items - initial information sources can include the usual suspects (family, friends and neighbors). Local feed stores, hardware stores that sell the points might work. County agricultural extension offices, local county or state environment protection offices may work, also the State Geologist's office. Local engineering or environmental consulting firms are a possibility. Be patient if contacting these offices, as finding that right person may take some doing. Some scientists and engineers love helping the public when a non-routine question such as this comes up, others not so much!
Be careful with providing TMI as the subject of permitting may come up with certain regulatory offices. If you don't wish to contact the government offices because of privacy concerns, you could instead do a computer search on ground water quality in ___ County ___ State. Similar search for groundwater depth. Naming convention as to whether to use "groundwater" or "ground water," one or two words? Use both alternatives in your searching.
Apologies for rambling, hope this helps. Good luck!
Thanks for taking the time to write all of that, I found it very helpful.
thx ,, this was life saving information,, I am 700 feet from where a gas station used be
So a good way to get this data without triggering permitting agencies is to ask for a water quality report? Map? I’m looking for property and doing research on what data to look for and where. I want to make sure the water I use for my small plot homestead will be safe for my family & animals. Thank you for taking the time to write your comments.
I previously looked up water table depths for an acquifer (since our ground water higher up seems to be seasonal). It's over 120 feet deep. Is there a way to do this without hiring a rig and having all kinds of permits come with it? (By law, they have to register any wells they drill.) and what kkind of pump is useful then? Something with an internal screw going down the pipe, as it seems from this video that there's a limit to a lift/suction pump to 25-30 feet.
@@salsa090968 You can call the local or state environmental agency and ask about water quality in your County. Their web sites can contain useful info as well. You are interested in buying property and are screening general locations. Ask if there are any maps that show known contaminated areas or specific sites/locations (one example that comes to mind - present and former gas stations).
Thanks for the video. Lack of clean drinking water has killed more people than smallpox. Your video is the best I have seen on this subject. Does that mean you just saved more lives than curing smallpox? I think that is worth a thumbs up for this guy.
Thanks
I have 1 question. WHY AM I JUST NOW LEARNING ABOUT THIS!!!! Been a prepper my entire life. Watch youtube every day and Im just now coming across this. Thank RUclips algorithm! Good job.
Still watching this even after two years. Thank you so much for posting this.
Nice job, on your tutorial. I have a couple of points, however. 1.) If you use Teflon tape, and pipe dope on top, you will have a great seal, and IF you have to take it apart, for some reason(You probably will, your first time.), then the tape will minimize the mess. Also, I have been around pipe dope and Teflon tape for more than 30 years, and I have seen them BOTH leak, but I have NEVER seen the combination of the two leak. On another note, I prefer the grey pipe dope. It is less apt to cracking with age. 2.) There is such a thing, called a "Fence Post Hammer", that will work for your "well hammer". Good job.
Kudos for the tip - doubling up on the 'sealant' for such an important fixture doubles as peace-of-mind.
I agree. Best to take a little extra time the first time
I spent a great deal of time doing plumbing when i renovated bathrooms. Most jobs we just did the plumbing since it wasn't anything major, my boss taught me to always wrap teflon several times around the thread and then spread a layer of silicon around that.
John-my dad was a plumber and he also used teflon and grey dope. And yep, I have and used the "russian hammer" many times!
We had a post hammer, but I think one of the workers my dad uses on the farm “misplaced” it. If you have neighbors with a post driver tractor attachment, it makes real short work of any pole/post driving job.
Yes, .. I agree with the fella that said that THIS is THEEEE BEST video on well water / ground water extraction ever that I have seen on RUclips
Best technology video ever . . . . no serious . . . engineers and tech people love to know how things work. I was held fascinated by the engineering and design tech of old school water wells.
You guys have no idea how much y’all have changed our lives. Through your super instructional videos, we’ve gained the confidence to start doing things on our own and have since built two rooms, saved tons of money and are getting ready to implement a hand pump and who knows what else. I just want to say thank you so much to you and Brooke for your time.
Hey bro, I’ve read that steel galvanized pipe will have a lot of lead in it. Is this true or is that false. Installing one of these at home
Drove about 3 of these when I lived in Michigan! The guy who recommended not adding pipe dope to the first few threads!? He’s right! This is a damn good video!
This was excellent! And I like the way you were not goofy, silly, or trying to act like a comedian and telling stupid jokes or acting like a fool, which unfortunately far too many RUclipsrs engage in. And another huge thumbs up for not playing background music to further annoy your viewers. And you got right into the content without telling us your life story first. First class presentation.
There was crappy background music tho
@@rickjames6492 worked enough to keep you interested right?
I agree.
As always, you make me feel like I could actually do this. Thank you
You can
So thankful for this. My wife and I are moving to our property this coming Tuesday. We have no water, no electricity. Thank you for making this. I am installing next week. I'll let ya know how it goes. 💪🙏
Well? How'd it go!? 😊
@@narc-anon7774 Yeah I wanna know too
You still alive?
I moved off grid in southern Colorado about ten years ago, drilled a 120 feet deep well and had a Grundfos solar powered pump installed. Best ten grand I ever spent.
You can buy a pipe driver. Look for the very heavy steel tee post driver. Don’t bother with the light weight ones. Mine is about 30 pounds but is longer than what you are using. At 14 feet I hit blue clay and it was pretty tough going until I broke through that at 20 feet. After that it was fairly easy. Took most of one day but I’m no spring chicken at nearly 70. Good video.
I have a heavy post slammer with handles on each side, I was gonna use that for my driver..
Did this 30 years ago on my farm in Indiana. This covered everything very well. This is by far the best explanation / tutorial I have ever seen. Great job!!!
Well, I clicked on this just because I find the subject interesting. Currently, I have a motorized pump setup from a previous owner that seems to be either dried up or the screen down there is clogged. I ttried to pull the pipe using a come a long and rail road ties for an A frame but it didn’t budge. Only the come a longe handle bent so I left it. I’d like to get it going again so now I have the incentive to pick a new spot now that I’m here with great info on the subject. I’m going to install a well after the current freeze simply because everything covered here is so true, easy to follow and understand. For anyone reading, please know this information can’t be found in a simple search and can be applied to many aspects. Please also know, the wealth of information here is worth saving. So save the video, write it down, record it, do whatever you can do to keep it so you can refer to it. Thank you so much for posting. May God Bless.
Try driving it an inch or so.. kinda like tightening a stuck bolt a smidge, to get it to break loose. Also an old time car jack- high lift- and a length of chain wrapped around the pipe, sometimes works for extracting. Junkyard best spot to find them anymore!!
@@tomgrams2333 Hi Tom: I tried a 10 lb. sledge until it mushroomed. I put a pipe wrench on there with a 6’ piece of 1” black pipe to twist while my friend pounded. No go. Next time I’ll drill a 5/8” hole in there with a bolt to grab on with a hydraulic pull ram that I have left over from my body shop days. If that doesn’t work, I’ll have to find another spot. Thanks for helping me. May God Bless.
I can remember priming the old well pump at our playground in the 60s,so all the kids could drink.
All these years wasting time watching Netflix or playing video games while raising 4 kids on my own. I LOVE learning and your show is really fun. Now Im not only watching yours but others that help me learn the things I want to learn. Yours was the first. LOVE it!
Thanks
A very good instruction on well points.
50+ years ago my father and I installed several of them(from Sears). My father made an adapter for his jack hammer to drive the point and pipe. I stood in the bucket of the loader, with the jackhammer to drive the point down. Dad lowered the bucket as the pipe went into the ground. It worked well. This was before OSHA. Good Luck, Rick
Bought a 100 yr old colonial house and found a old well. Went to the archives for the county and found out it was the first hand dug well in the area which would make sense since it is just outside the old carriage house. Your video is very helpful with the pump itself. Thank you
Wow that's cool. What state
@@rppope1006 Missouri Cole Younger lived and grew up here.
The old one was made in Rockford,IL. I was born and raised there and I never knew that we manufactured hand pumps back in the day. That's super cool!
I’ve been building a small homestead for a couple of years now. This is the most thorough, accurate, clear cut, informed, humble, and easy to understand tutorial I’ve ever watched. Not only well driving, but on any construction project. And I’ve watched hundreds of videos.
I’m also in medical school. For the love of God, could you please come in and teach a couple lectures on cardiac surgery?
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Know zero about wells and pumps but must say, you explained everything so well that I can do this! GREAT JOB Sir....
An old timer plumber told me that if I wanted to have 100% no leak fittings, was to use Teflon Tape AND Pipe Dope, so that's what I do from now on. Never had a leak ever after that. Great video Dave !!
Thanks for sharing
Man i doubt an old timer plumber said that but ok. What do you do put pipe dope then Teflon and the more pipe dope?
@@JM-yx1lm, That's exactly what he told me to do to make every connection 100% no leaks from the beginning. Wrap a couple times with Teflon, then dope over the tape. I've had leaks with just Teflon, and leaks with just dope, but never with both. Some people are lucky and never have any leaks using just one, but not me. Lol.
@@augustreil LE PUEDEN PLNER TEFLÓN O SILICON TAMBIÉN PARA QUE NO HAYA FUGA DE AIRE
This video is the most comprehensive explanation of a point well installation I have ever seen. Answered all my questions and more. Excellent job. Keep making your videos. You are a natural teacher. Thank you!
Glad it helped!!
@@Bushradical does this well pump water in winter Wisconsin? Do I need a different pump cuz I’m thinking parts freeze????
@@jolee6751 Do you know where the Upper Peninsula Michigan is?
17:45 answers your question
@@SW-zu7ve yes, so this would work in Northern Wisconsin
One of the best videos I have ever seen. You should be a teacher or a instructor. You were very thorough
and I give an A+ for your efforts! Thank you so much!
Nice video. Very helpful. I’m looking forward to doing mine. Note for everyone: divining rods are complete fiction and aren’t based on anything other than gullibility. Don’t waste your time or money. They only play on human psychology. The local DNR and government water authority will have all of the data and science you need to make a good estimate. Hope everybody enjoys again. I love the video. Thank you very much for the help.
New subscriber, because this is one of the BEST videos I've ever seen on RUclips. I'm a university professor, but you're a better teacher than I will ever be.
Top-notch editing! All knowledge, No BS. Well done.
We're digging out an old well and I think we're going to use this exact setup. I'm glad you mentioned the smooth bore being perhaps the biggest difference between American made and those overseas. The ball valve is genius and so is washing out the pipes before putting them in the ground.
best of luck RB.
Might need a piston bore hone to true up a foreign made pitcher pump?
I’m getting ready to do a hand pump well and am so grateful that God led me to your video. Thank you for such complete, clear and concise info on parts needed and each step in the process. You are a Godsend.
Many years ago an old timer told me that you can tell you are into water if you dump water into the pipe and it goes down . The faster the pipe takes water the better the well . Great video! Brought back good memories of the cabin at Rose City ,MI.
Pipe--DOPE! I installed a well by watching your video, here in the UP, today. 3/16/24
Man I hope you know how much you're helping the uninformed city slicker that has to bootstrap fast to prepare for end games 🙏🏼
Couple of tips I have for you. Your drive coupling the one your going to replace , always keep it tight or it will split when driving. A nice size engine flywheel welded to an axle shaft makes a good driver. A person on each side lifting and dropping the flywheel makes good work. I have pulled new wells with a log and a piece of chain and a large block. Lay down the block close to the well pipe to set the log on, adjust to get good leverage. Hook the chain around the end of the log close to well pipe. Have one person lift the end of the log opposite of the well pipe. Wrap the chain two wraps around well pipe the push down on the log. Pipe will lift out of the ground. Keep repeating sliding the chain down on the well pipe each time. I hope this method makes sense to you. Thanks for your videos. ATB
Thanks
Great job explaining this procedure. The ball valve enhancement was a great suggestion.
Would a check valve do the same thing as the ball valve..
It should but then you’d probably need to take it apart before it freezes.
Ioooopoopop LLP op2 ki k1.
U3i[92778
@@barbarasteed3966 that's what I was thinking
Wow.. It's always nice to get info from someone who has actually done it. Not read about it in a book. Very thorough with your explanation. Thanks Dave
That’s the best example of a well done job and honest explanation. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I pulled from my 30 ft well, 20 ft to my cabin with this exact pump. They work very well.
On the ball valve when you drain it for freezing. Leave the valve cracked half way as the “ball” WILL hold water freeze and break!!! I have replaced MANY!!! Great vid!!!
Didn’t know this; thank you!
Was just thinking the same thing. Stay frosty my friend
There is a hand hydrant valve assembly that has a 5 foot pipe with a check valve under the frost line i guess that would not work with a non pressurized water source just wondering if that would work with a picture pump
I think that the no pipe dope on the 1st 2 threads tip is a great tip. For all applications, like hydraulics, air, or gas. Even for Nitrogen gas used for laser cutting.
This whole video is full of great tips.
I have worked with these for a few years. Your explanation was fantastic. I like your style and the way you addressed those areas you were not comfortable discussing.
In my area, the ground water is quite hard which requires replacement of the well point every so often. I have 2 points: one in the ground and one waiting. When I must replace, I pull the pipes out, swap the point and reinstall. I take the one just received and treat it with a bath of CLR rust remover inside a section of pvc pipe I keep on hand for just that job. This dissolves all the growths off the silt screen and reconditions the point for return to service [after a good cleansing].
Sounds like a good system.
Test water for contaminates drinking from surface water. I am old water well driller now retired.
Dave, A+ on the instructional. Clear, concise, and to the point. My biggest pet peeve with YT creators is the unnecessary blathering of unnecessary information. You sir, are the epitome of what creators should aspire to. You got my subscription and looking forward to exploring your channel further.
Good to have someone presenting this kind of information without any b.s. or dramatics. Especially now, knowing how to do things like this can...and will.. be the difference between life and death. Making use of modern technology is great and I hope we never see the time when it's not available... but someday.. next week..next year..whenever, wherever... when the shtf... well... better to have and not need than to need and not have. Remember:
Those who will not use the brains and skills they have are no better off than those who have none. They are by their own choice subject to the will and control of those who would be their masters. Your life. Your choice.
well said
Don't leave many comments for tubers but you are the senpai of explanation.
I am attracted to the fact that you basically answer any question without the need of any questions...
With this video I am sure a CAVEMAN can do this!
Surprised I haven't found you sooner!
Thank you very much for your effort best wishes to you and your family.
That was an excellent description of how to drive a well. I use to help my father drive wells in the 50’s in
Arkansas. He did it the same way. He made his own driver. He took a 40” piece of 6” pipe with a driving
cap and then poured about 75 lbs. babbitt in the pipe. This would give you a longer stroke when driving
the pipe.
Old plumber turned me on to rectoseal number 5. It is much better seal and lasts forever. I could not find an old pump so I took a cylinder hone and cleaned up the bore. If you open the ball valve all the way you can trap water behind the jacket and it will crack, always leave ball valves slightly open over winter... Great video, I really appreciate all the information. You're increasing My carpentry confidence!!
Hello there, through all the thousands of the messages i want to thank you for the easy information and for the video to make viewers like me to understand how to make a well around the house. One of the best tutorial i got. May God bless you and the family
I'm a introvert also homesteading in NC , it was nice to meet you through this video.
I drank some old well pump water on a old farm once was the coldest water I ever had.
@@isaackvasager9957 yeah we was discing a bean field with a 1066 int i think in Indiana when we found it.
Wells that run with pumps are literally heated by the pump.
I had an old hand pump well at grand dad's farm house in Indiana and it was the best water I ever tasted. Still not forgotten it 35 yrs later.
My grandfather had a pitcher pump outside the farmhouse.
.
Kept a can of water to seal the leather washer...always had that iron flavor....no extra money for stainless or brass pipe. Poor as dirt.
Great video, It is not usual for anyone to talk on a point such as this and remain interesting. Your plan is right on the money and steps understandable. The extra tips about the joint compound, and cleaning out the pipes is on the one, because I would not have known or thought about that until after I installed the pipes and pump . Those are the things that will make a big difference with the taste of the water which are very important to me when I drink the water. I have to say again, you made a nice instructional video and it shows. So many tubers are now concentrating on fluff, instead of strong, interesting, and thought out content. Nice job! Now I can install my well and pump like a pro.
One good reason to drive a 2" stand of pipe is that the larger inside diameter gives you room to run a liner sleeve inside if your 2" pipe develops a leak over time. Let's say you drive a well with 2" diameter pipe, and over 10 years, the screen in your drive point wears out and you get sand/silt in the bottom. You can run inside with a 1" pipe stand and jet out the sand. Then you can run a liner inside and re-complete your well with a smaller I.D.
Nice add friend.
I was wondering about this.
@@northcoastrealty4362 Great Point
That is exactly the info I needed to know in order to replace the leathers and make an old handpump workable again. Thank you!
We have a high water level in my area. We all ready have a pump but if, and when the grid goes down, we may need this. I have an old well pump...I think it is in fine shape. But, I will have it checked by the man who cleaned my well. You created an AWESOME video, and I have been concerned about the water in my prepping plan. My husband is not on board, so it is frustrating as my children are not in the immediate vicinity, and I am IT in terms of the research, gathering, planning and close to freaking outing LOL. Thank you for your help. Note...when my best friend got divorced, she, and the one she called on, me, to help her replace a headlight, etc. She called me one day, and I went over. She had the pipes of the sink apart, as she had dropped an earring in there. Now, she couldn't get it back together. I said, "We can probably do this, but when Jerry, (My husband) does this, he uses this white plumber's tape". We did get the pipes together, and I seriously mistakenly got that tape the right direction. Voila...No leaks. My husband always had to leave one leak.I was so ready to get a Plumbers license LOL.
WOW. I watch a lot of youtube videos on everything from woodworking, to auto repair, to homesteading, and this is the best edited, most clear, most complete video I've ever watched. Great job!! Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub
I remember a buddy wanting to make homestead videos a while back ;)
When I drove mine, I took a 3” heavy wall pipe about 3’ long and welded a 16lb sledgehammer head to the end so it fit over the well point pipe to drive it, worked perfectly.
Back when I was a kid we drove a well for the cottage we were building. As soon as you gave that taste test I could remember how that first water tasted out of our newly driven well. It lasted for about a month. Also it seems like the older pitcher pumps had a bit longer stroke on them. Thanks for taking that pump apart and showing how they work especially with the leathers. Great visual aid. Hope you and your family have an excellent Fall season.
yup:new pumps got like 5 pumps in 1...alot leathers and go like 60 feet: more softer slow pumps but just keeps going/waters keep comeing at slower rate /smaller pipe :>)
I'm in central Minnesota and have put in close to a dozen of these Wells and had to watch your video and I've got to say nice job overall exactly what I do
I threaded my own pipe, used regular couplings, used a regular pipe cap to drive it. Not only did it go in at 18 feet of rocks and gravel, but it came out again five years later, with no damage. They're pretty tough. Keep turning clockwise as you are driving it.
Man I’m so glad I found your channel, and this video. We’ve been talking about doing a hand pump well for years, but never really knew how to get started. We have an old pump house that has a hand pump from the early 1900s, and I’ve always wanted to try to restore it but again… never really knew how. Now I do. Keep making great content man, this is probably some of the best videos on RUclips. Glad there are guys like you out there, doing this kind of stuff and then teaching the rest of us how we can too.
Dude! You're seriously the best teacher EVER!!! Your videos are going to be our GO-TO spot for everything we need to do at our new property! Thank you and Brooke for sharing your expertise! Can't wait to keep watching all your projects at your new property. Have fun!
The fitting you had in your right hand is actually what it called black iron which is a malleable iron, not recommended for drinking water and has a lacquer coating that helps prevent it from rusting for a short time, typically black iron is used for hydronic heating. The one is your left looks like stainless steel. Stainless steel is used is a wide variety of applications and is food safe. For your pipe dope I would recommend teflon tepe+leak lock. (leak lock comes in a bright blue container) Really good stuff imo and is potable water safe.
I grew up with these type of pumps and you just gave the best explanation of the complete operation of how these pumps work . I like the closing valve .
Hey Hollywood...that is one of the best hand pump well vids to date. Thanks so much. With Bi den, I mean, rolling blackouts...this is a great idea.
Of all the tutorials I have EVER seen, this guy is the best instructor I've watched! Man, you should do instructional videos every day!! You are great at what you do. Thank you!
Dude.. well done... pun intended.
Seriously though, super awesome explanations and advice. I thank you for your time and efforts!
A great explanation of how these pumps work. 60 years ago, my dad installed a 25' driven well in the garage of our house, where no one could see it, and we had potable water after hurricanes. Worked fine. I never knew until lately I grew up homesteading, prepping, and doing bushcraft. I just thought we were poor. I'd have held my head up more if I knew back then doing what poor people do would become trendy.
As much as I like your videos, you're kind of a cowboy (I'm sure you've been told that before, and are aware it's part of your appeal), and I do wish you would recommend your viewers check permit requirements in their local areas.
These guys are considered a Class IIIC well in Virginia (driven, less than 50', used for drinking water).
- Permit required? Yeppers!
- Grouting required? You betcha!
- Could the hand pump be, by design, a violation of the "no unprotected openings into the interior of the well" clause? Depends on the mood of your inspector.
Thank You for the great video. We plan to put this type of well in as a backup to our electric pump driven well. Preppers gotta do what preppers gotta do.
I love these videos. They make me smile as I live in AZ and water is 1000+ feet down. I remember the days when I was in NY when the water was at the surface.
Great video! Thx! Best way to pull stubborn pipe well pipe is to use a heavy duty hydraulic car floor jack (2 ton or so) or just a regular hydraulic jack, wrap a chain around top collar of pipe, and the other on the end of the jack and jack it upward. You can use wood or the like as a base for the jack so it won't sink into the ground. Usually once you get the pipe moving, it gets easier and you can just keep cinching the chain down the pipe as it rises.
😉👍
You can buy a 1-1/4" brass one way check valve and install under the pump (before or after your manual valve) This keeps prime without the need to operate the manual valve each time. (The check valve is also available at menards, same location/isle as the well drive couplings.) When I did my well a few years ago I also installed a "T" under the valves. The T also has a check valve and shutoff valve which is then plumbed to a shallow well jet pump. On demand water just like a normal well.
Though winter freezing can be a problem.
I have the same amount of experience with driving wells that you had before you made your first video. I've pumped a lot of wells but never put one in, so learning a bit about the process was pretty cool. Thanks for taking us along for the ride. I will say it again, you guys are living my dream with your place in the UP.
Thanks
I’m going to attempt to go 100ft because I can’t afford a professional with a drilling rig, any suggestions would be very much appreciated? Thank you , I learned so much! Getting to old to keep drinking & filling up my 2, 100 gallon containers!
If you can pull water 25ft you’ve done well. The best I’ve done was 22ft and I’ve put in a few. I made my own driver and it works great. Imagine a fire extinguisher with the bottom cut off and two rebar arms. I poured in about 40 pounds of lead and welded a plate over the lead and it’s been great. That’s probably a bit difficult to envision. I did an up grade by welding a steel rod to the plate in the extinguisher and drilled a hole thru the drive cap. Keeps me centered on the pipe. Your spot on about cleaning out the pipe and watching out for to much pipe dope! Nothing like a glass of oily tainted water. Long winded I know but if you tie a weight to one end of a string and a clean rag on the other end you can just drop the weight thru the pipe and pull the rag thru. This is by far the most informative video I’ve seen on the topic.
I just came upon your video and I learned everything to be comfortable to set up a well pump.
Thank you for producing this video!
This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen on youtube!!!
You were informative, direct,
to the point, explained everything really “well” and made it easy to understand for someone like me who is not very mechanical.
I wish more content producers were able and willing to make videos like you!
The detail was excellent and all of the nuggets of "good to know" info from experience will save me the experience of finding out for myself. Thanks!
Excellent Dave!! Thank you!!
My husband watched with me.. I keep asking for this to be installed on our property.. Maybe it will happen now! Thank you!
70 odd years ago my parents had a pulley and a long cylinder (galvanized, I think). At the bottom of this cylinder was a cork like thing and when the water bucket hit the water it would turn and allow the cylinder to fill up with water and slowly close. Then we would pull the cylinder on the pulley and empty the water into a bucket. I suppose they hand dug to get to the water initially. I just remember it was the BEST water and so cold. This was in South Alabama. My Aunt had a hand pump well. Thank you for sharing ALL of the info .
Wow…the BEST BY FAR explanation on how to build an off grid water supply!
If your leathers are dry, you can use up that gallon of prime water without getting your pump primed unless you take steps to conserve the water. When you are priming, you should raise the pump handle all the way before pouring in water. Then only push the handle down an inch or so while you are pumping. You can make short strokes up and down with the pump handle near the top end of it's travel and keep your prime water in the pump. If you push the handle all the way down, you empty the water above the plunger out of the pump. I listen for the sound of a bubble coming through the water in the pump each time I raise the pump handle that inch of travel. That's air leaving the column. When the bubbling stops and the pumping is suddenly harder, you're done. Raise the handle all the way to the limit and you might lose prime again though. Hopefully, your leathers will be swollen enough by then to seal and pump out the air.
My well is 26' and I use a hand pump to bring water up to the top of the well pipe in the springtime before I hook up my electric well pump. Water is held at the top of the pipe with a second check valve (I have one at the well point and another at the top of the pipe). That helps me get water to the top easier but the pumping is still noticeably more difficult.
Thank you for sharing. Witching with welding rod helps find water. Also looking for a few wide leaf plants in a area, is a good indication there is activity of water.
AHAHAHAH
First vid on this topic that actually tells you what exactly to get. Thanks
Thank you for this video. Just recently got the ability to move out into the country. We now have well water and septic and I have no experience with either. My grandparents had both but unfortunately my grandfather is no longer around to ask all the questions. We have to redo both and this is some great info to add into the mix, thank you.
Please make sure you have your septic pumped every two to three years, or the results will be a nightmare. If not pumped out regularly, all that icky goo will back up into your house, and you sure don't want that! If you are using the old system at all it would be wisdom to have it pumped out right now since you may not know when it was last done. Call a local septic company, and they can let you know the frequency that it should be done. Last time I had mine done, it cost @ $200.
Used to have a hand pump at my grandparents cabin we kids love to get water and on the way back with the pail we would twirl the pail to see if water would stay in the pail. Good memories. Thanks very informative. 😊🇺🇸
I don't know if it's been mentioned, but make sure your ball valve is made of lead-free brass / rated for potable water. You don't want lead leaching into your drinking water. Probably not a big deal but worth mentioning. (Brass often has lead added because it improved machinability enormously.) Stainless Steel would also work well.
Oh, please.
They are all lead free it's been that way for years
@@mauricesmith4270 that's not true at all. Plenty of leaded brass fittings on the shelf. I've even had to sign a thing at the hardware store stating that I would not use it for potable water.
You need to check for lead free.. you not completely wrong but they do make cheaper valve for like boiler and chiller systems.
Finally someone took the initiative to speak about a simple hand driven well w pitcher pump. My oleman taught me how to do when I was 10. He told me then...Son you may need to know how to do this one day , if power goes down or maybe you buy a piece of land and need water or to check the water.
Having a pitcher pump , pipe and point may make you a King one day He who has access to clean water will have the advantage. Gotta have it!
Your video was a God sent. We have the the remains of 2 wells. One right inside the garage and 1 outside. We can hear the water in the one inside the garage. We just didnt know how to bring the water up. I believe your video may have solved our problem.
Got to give it a try. THANKS
You, sir, are thorough, clear, and well organized. You are an exceptional teacher. Thank you!
i watched you all install this set up and have been waiting for some follow up like this to explain the nitty gritty, so thanks for the pertinent info. i appreciate that.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good description. Step by step. I've never done this but I feel with you experience, I too could have free water.
Thanks Dave
your welcome
Great video! I'll be doing this soon. If you need to pull a well/pipes up. Use a T-Post puller. They sell them at Harbor Freight for about $40. It would work great.
I've watched quite a few videos on this subject. Wanting to learn what supplies would be needed. You sir have done that best video explaing the parts and process. Thank you for the information
Howdy Dave, I was very pleased to watch this clip. Congrats! Well done and well explained!
May the Lord bless you!
this is probably the best video on hand pump well that i have ever seen. thank you. new subscriber here! :)