Hi Geoff nice update mate. I do like the class 68 I think Santa may be bringing me one in scotrail livery. Always enjoy watching your trains. I think we could all do an outtakes as it always goes wrong when we're filming. Lastly I've seen those track connectors and I'm thinking of using them on my new lift out section, when its built. Thanks for sharing cheers Andy
thanks Andy , yes the 68 is a very nice model . the Layout was running most of the day ( as its fully automated ) but as soon as i video it derails . it happens to the best folks lol
Hi Geoff! great update and very informative, The track alignment jig looks vey nice and will be ideal for scenic areas, and that board for the signals will prove very useful. All the best Tony
Hi Nicholas . yes both Methods work with no issues but I do like the look of these new track aligners especially in scenic areas with the sleepers . looking forward to seeing how to set up the dr5088 video
Hi Geoff, great update and some very interesting bits in there. I do like the track joiners, they look very good quality and simple to use and install. If I were to start again, I may be very tempted with the Digikeys stuff.. Whooppps!!, that was a bumpy ending..lol, great vid, cheers, Chris
@@flinthillsmodelrailway Going no where so far, just collecting loads of boxes and trying to think about what design I want. I also have to clear out the old solar hot water system from the loft to make way for the baseboard etc. Very slow job I'm afraid as not feeling too good with health problems.
Hi Geoff, cracking video with lots of great content 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Your channel is becoming dangerous to watch, 😱, just picked up some of those MP1 point motors and a copy of iTrain 💰 😉 you have me sold on those delicious signals too 💸😍 Congratulations on the new additions, all look at home in Flint Hills already 😉 Keep up the great work and very best wishes from County Wicklow ☘️
Wow thankyou Paul for those kind words . Just hope all goes well with those Point motors . the other good news is Bob Fuller is making a great series on using Itrain which I have also found very useful to explain and expand on . Just made some more signals today so seeing flashing lights now . stay safe Geoff
Excellent and informative video Geoff as ever, I actually understood some of it, lol! Slow progress on my layout but track is going down! Hopefully speak soon mate, cheers John
Hi Geoff, great update. I do like the CR signals, I've also had a chance to watch your previous signal build vid as well - only thing is the cost, all the CR, Berko, Ekon etc are quite pricey. I think it's time to design some parts on the 3d printer ! Enjoyed the vid 👍.......Andy
hi Andy , your right the Signals are expensive however its much much cheaper to buy the kits and make them , plus in my case to make them as common anode if i dont muck up lol , Geoff
Really good update Geoff. Interesting bit on the track alignment - clever bit of new kit - although I didn't realise you need to solder the rails to it? Some great running shots and your new rolling stock from Revolution Trains is most impressive. Cheers Euan
Hi Euan , you might be right as there was no instructions with the kit so i assumed you had to the solder the rails to it to ensure its stayed aligned . thanks for the support Euan . Geoff
Great video Geoff, very interest info regarding signals, I haven’t gone there yet. I take it the voyager is a dapol one? I had one few years ago. Fitted a FCC’s decoder awful. The socket had badly corroded, when I got it going, it wouldn’t go round corners. I got rid and got the farish one, lol
Hi John , yes the voyager in this video is the dapol one, Yes the sockets are not great and I had to change one in my other voyager. Both are temperamental and hate the Slope and the diamond crossing despite me checking the back to backs . the wheels and bogies are the nightmare - the extra coach to make it a super voyager has a different wheels and bogies. I might see if i can change the others to the same Bogies the Fairish model does work better but I hate the coupling. thanks again for your support Geoff
Hi Geoff, Great video, certainly I'll be re-watching the signals bit as per my FB post the other day when I get to that part of the layout. One question on alignment, how did you align over the slope between the baseboard joins on the Woodland scenics incline kit?.. This is my debate at the moment, go 6-7mm Ply and cut in a slope or go incline kit, my incline is approx 2% so the starter kit should do it fine.... I saw the model tech kits before, I've 8 crossings, 7 on the level on a straight line, so yep i'll be getting those for sure.. Oh did I mention the points halfway up the incline :)
hi Alan, ok I simply ignored the Board joint and went straight over with the incline and with the cork .when dry I then got a Sharpe Kitchen knife and sliced through where the joint is . I glued my copper sleepers either side of the joint and then run the track over the joint and cut the sleepers away . once i was happy with the track I then soldered the rails to the copper Sleeps on both sides and simple cut the track with either my tracker cutter or with my dremel . your point should be fine as long as its not on a board joint lol
@@flinthillsmodelrailway Cool so you glued the sleepers to the cork which was glued directly to the Incline foam, does it seem stable enough... More I look at it this is seeming a viable option, might need to relocate those damn points though. Thanks Geoff.
yes all glued and yes very stable with no track aliment issues . what ive seen done for the points is to cut a small section of the incline away where the point motor will go and also take 6mm off the riser on both side and fit a piece of 6mm ply . you can then cork over and fit the point as normal and have some stong enough underneath for the point motor to fit to
Yes ive 2x N gauge tracks code 80 flex running up my riser. Ive added some polystyrene and plaster cloth afterwards at the sides to i can create the scenic bits , Geoff ps no need to Apologies- all great questions which has got me thinking that i should have explained in more detail. the good new is you can ask me directly
Hi Geoff, a great evaluation of our ProTrack Rail Aligners :) . Just wanted to respond to some of your thoughts: For the faceure boards, I would recomend adding a small spacer along it to shift it away slightly from the board edge to prevent the aligners interfering. The gold plated copper that is exposed on the sleepers it there as an option to those who would prefer to solder from the outside. I would recomend painting over the rail aligners after as you suggested. The height issue is definitly something that our rail aligners will struggle to solve. However these are intended to be used for that very last mm of alignment and highly recomend using other products like the DCC alignment dowels. In all a very good video, I've hit that subscribe button and I look forward to seeing more 👍
Hi , so kind of you to watch and reply . yes thinking afterwards I have had to make a hole in the Create ends for the dowels so it would not be any different for your track alignment . Yes that makes sense now for folks to solder to the outside but I do like the inside option better . Thankyou for your comments and the sub . all the best Geoff
I model UK steam N gauge but your layout is still an inspiration. I look forward to each instalment.
thankyou for those kind words
Hi Geoff nice update mate. I do like the class 68 I think Santa may be bringing me one in scotrail livery. Always enjoy watching your trains. I think we could all do an outtakes as it always goes wrong when we're filming. Lastly I've seen those track connectors and I'm thinking of using them on my new lift out section, when its built. Thanks for sharing cheers Andy
thanks Andy , yes the 68 is a very nice model . the Layout was running most of the day ( as its fully automated ) but as soon as i video it derails . it happens to the best folks lol
Hi Geoff! great update and very informative, The track alignment jig looks vey nice and will be ideal for scenic areas, and that board for the signals will prove very useful. All the best Tony
Thanks tony for the positive feedback. the makers of the jig has also commented after seeing my video . have a look at their comments
I used both of your methods for baseboard joins, copper clad PCB for the fiddle yard and screws for the scenic side :D
Hi Nicholas . yes both Methods work with no issues but I do like the look of these new track aligners especially in scenic areas with the sleepers . looking forward to seeing how to set up the dr5088 video
Hi Geoff, great update and some very interesting bits in there. I do like the track joiners, they look very good quality and simple to use and install. If I were to start again, I may be very tempted with the Digikeys stuff.. Whooppps!!, that was a bumpy ending..lol, great vid, cheers, Chris
Thanks Chris, yes took me ages to work out what DCC system to go with . so pleased with the digikijes stuff , Geoff
Another nice one Geoff, keep 'em rolling.
hi Phil , will do , hows progress on your layout ? Geoff
@@flinthillsmodelrailway Going no where so far, just collecting loads of boxes and trying to think about what design I want. I also have to clear out the old solar hot water system from the loft to make way for the baseboard etc. Very slow job I'm afraid as not feeling too good with health problems.
Hi Geoff, cracking video with lots of great content 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Your channel is becoming dangerous to watch, 😱, just picked up some of those MP1 point motors and a copy of iTrain 💰 😉 you have me sold on those delicious signals too 💸😍 Congratulations on the new additions, all look at home in Flint Hills already 😉 Keep up the great work and very best wishes from County Wicklow ☘️
Wow thankyou Paul for those kind words . Just hope all goes well with those Point motors . the other good news is Bob Fuller is making a great series on using Itrain which I have also found very useful to explain and expand on . Just made some more signals today so seeing flashing lights now . stay safe Geoff
Oh wow Geoff, those are nice pieces of new kit. Looks amazing!! Though the "N Sturgeon" ?? 🤣🤣
thanks David
Excellent and informative video Geoff as ever, I actually understood some of it, lol! Slow progress on my layout but track is going down! Hopefully speak soon mate, cheers John
I bet it will look great , Geoff
Hi Geoff, great update. I do like the CR signals, I've also had a chance to watch your previous signal build vid as well - only thing is the cost, all the CR, Berko, Ekon etc are quite pricey. I think it's time to design some parts on the 3d printer ! Enjoyed the vid 👍.......Andy
hi Andy , your right the Signals are expensive however its much much cheaper to buy the kits and make them , plus in my case to make them as common anode if i dont muck up lol , Geoff
Really good update Geoff. Interesting bit on the track alignment - clever bit of new kit - although I didn't realise you need to solder the rails to it? Some great running shots and your new rolling stock from Revolution Trains is most impressive. Cheers Euan
Hi Euan , you might be right as there was no instructions with the kit so i assumed you had to the solder the rails to it to ensure its stayed aligned . thanks for the support Euan . Geoff
Great video Geoff, very interest info regarding signals, I haven’t gone there yet.
I take it the voyager is a dapol one? I had one few years ago. Fitted a FCC’s decoder awful. The socket had badly corroded, when I got it going, it wouldn’t go round corners. I got rid and got the farish one, lol
Hi John , yes the voyager in this video is the dapol one, Yes the sockets are not great and I had to change one in my other voyager. Both are temperamental and hate the Slope and the diamond crossing despite me checking the back to backs . the wheels and bogies are the nightmare - the extra coach to make it a super voyager has a different wheels and bogies. I might see if i can change the others to the same Bogies the Fairish model does work better but I hate the coupling. thanks again for your support Geoff
Hi Geoff, Great video, certainly I'll be re-watching the signals bit as per my FB post the other day when I get to that part of the layout. One question on alignment, how did you align over the slope between the baseboard joins on the Woodland scenics incline kit?.. This is my debate at the moment, go 6-7mm Ply and cut in a slope or go incline kit, my incline is approx 2% so the starter kit should do it fine.... I saw the model tech kits before, I've 8 crossings, 7 on the level on a straight line, so yep i'll be getting those for sure.. Oh did I mention the points halfway up the incline :)
hi Alan, ok I simply ignored the Board joint and went straight over with the incline and with the cork .when dry I then got a Sharpe Kitchen knife and sliced through where the joint is . I glued my copper sleepers either side of the joint and then run the track over the joint and cut the sleepers away . once i was happy with the track I then soldered the rails to the copper Sleeps on both sides and simple cut the track with either my tracker cutter or with my dremel . your point should be fine as long as its not on a board joint lol
@@flinthillsmodelrailway Cool so you glued the sleepers to the cork which was glued directly to the Incline foam, does it seem stable enough... More I look at it this is seeming a viable option, might need to relocate those damn points though. Thanks Geoff.
Apologies, one last question, the Scenic rises they accommodate 2 tracks ok do you think? Am working with 55 (or possible 80) Flexi.
yes all glued and yes very stable with no track aliment issues . what ive seen done for the points is to cut a small section of the incline away where the point motor will go and also take 6mm off the riser on both side and fit a piece of 6mm ply . you can then cork over and fit the point as normal and have some stong enough underneath for the point motor to fit to
Yes ive 2x N gauge tracks code 80 flex running up my riser. Ive added some polystyrene and plaster cloth afterwards at the sides to i can create the scenic bits , Geoff
ps no need to Apologies- all great questions which has got me thinking that i should have explained in more detail. the good new is you can ask me directly
Hi Geoff, a great evaluation of our ProTrack Rail Aligners :) . Just wanted to respond to some of your thoughts:
For the faceure boards, I would recomend adding a small spacer along it to shift it away slightly from the board edge to prevent the aligners interfering.
The gold plated copper that is exposed on the sleepers it there as an option to those who would prefer to solder from the outside. I would recomend painting over the rail aligners after as you suggested.
The height issue is definitly something that our rail aligners will struggle to solve. However these are intended to be used for that very last mm of alignment and highly recomend using other products like the DCC alignment dowels.
In all a very good video, I've hit that subscribe button and I look forward to seeing more 👍
Hi , so kind of you to watch and reply . yes thinking afterwards I have had to make a hole in the Create ends for the dowels so it would not be any different for your track alignment . Yes that makes sense now for folks to solder to the outside but I do like the inside option better . Thankyou for your comments and the sub . all the best Geoff