Jimmy!!! I found another common problem with loose steering. Take off top of steering column where red flasher is. Start truck and turn the wheel and you will find 2 torx 25 bolts that are probably very loose? Turn wheel as truck idles and tighten the other side. 2 total. After I did most of the other stuff first.
I love you man. Im doing this on my mothers truck as we speak. I was going to light the truck on fire and say it was an accident, until i saw this video
2005 Tahoe, 225k miles, took me 3 hours. EVERYTHING was tight AF. I also broke the plastic bearing off, and had to dig it out of the column. Great video, helped a lot! Mine was a real bastard, however!
I want to say thank you Jimmy. I watched your video and I have to say that your video allowed me to complete this same task on my truck. I have a 2003 Chevy Suburban with the same issue. Now, no more noise. Thanks again. Your experience and videos do help. Great job. Your videos have helped me alot.
THANK YOU for the 15/16" end wrench tip (a 1" wrench worked even better for me). That was genius. I've had the clunk in my 2500 for years but I've read horror stories about swapping the part out. After watching your video it took me 15 minutes. Thanks for sharing.
On my 2004 Suburban, after rebuilding my front end suspension and steering (ball joints, tie rods, etc) the original steering bearing no longer rattles. I am guessing that if you have to replace the steering bearing after 2-3 years, you may want to look into replacing parts of your steering and suspension as well. After 17 years and 270K miles, it was about time for a rebuild anyhow. Everything is nice and tight again like when she was new. Happy trails!
Thank you for this video. All of the tips really helped. I used a ball peen hammer to assist the wrench. Now the clunk and looseness is gone! Best $15 spent on the truck so far
You motivated me to do it 😳30 min job🤗I turn the steering wheel to where the bolt head was pointed straight down and then locked in the seat belt😊I did not use the wrench with my hand and a glove I worked it in with pressure from my arm😎🤗🇺🇸and the noisy problem is solved🤗local mechanic quoted $400 to do it😱
Took me about an hour but well worth it. I was struggling at first until you brought out the 15/16 wrench idea and wow it took wonders lol. Thanks a bunch
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow forgot my password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Holden Barrett I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I watched this and your video for changing the intermediate shaft so I could have an understanding of the shaft connections. I want to undo the lower connection in order to move it out of the way so I can take out the exhaust manifold on my '03 Silverado 8.1 liter dually. Thanks, good video and I appreciate your decent language.
@@1RoadGarage love your vids, have watched many of them. Just finished this. Took me 1.5 hours but some of that was a few vodka cocktails and some was breaks because, right now, my back is in pretty bad shape. Everything went the same, but on mine I had to use a 1" or 1 1/16" actually worked better. I have an 04 Yukon. The hardest part for me was lining up the top of the intermediate shaft to the bottom of the steering shaft. 2 screwdrivers did the trick. 1 in the hole of the intermediate shaft and the other prying up on it. After that, no issues. Thanks again. I will keep watching.
2002 Suburban, bought it brand new, that part was replaced on an oil change visit while under warranty. Steering wheel would clunk while turning or hitting bumps. Haven't had a problem since, but i never knew the cause till now. Good video and it seems easy to do.
Woohoo, great vid!!!!! I'm gonna go put mine on now..................... EDIT: I put the bushing on, it was a PITA, took about an hour. Rattle all gone!! Thanks again. I examined the OEM part that I removed, but did not see any visible defect or wear, it seemed perfect... but it definitely rattled... weird
Just a comment, I did mine, the bearing generally isn't bad, the plastic housing often clunks in the metal housing, Soooo here is what I did and it worked great. slip some toothpicks ( I used 4 or 5) between the outside of the plastic and the inside of the metal to tighten the plastic bearing housing in the column. I did shorten the toothpicks to about 2/3 of full length, make them all the same, and insert the pointed end toward the steering wheel.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the bearing and the shaft in exactly 1 hour tools out to tools away. The shaft required a few light taps of the hammer to get the lower end to be properly shaped to fit into the lower shaft. I used Dorman parts for both pieces. You’re right. Getting the bearing in is kind of a pain and it would help to use an axle nut socket to tap it in. Definitely lock the steering wheel with the seatbelt and it is much easier to remove the gas pedal.
The extra ribs gave me the idea to put a small piece of paper out of a cigarette pack folded in first then slide my old bushing back in. Paper gave it a more snug fit. Took it for a rip and made a big improvement on the clunk!
I did this yesterday to my 2006 Silverado. Replaced both bearing and intermediate shaft. Went with the Dorman parts instead of GM because I want to see how long they last. The suggestion of using the wrench to help push in the bearing worked great. Greasing the bearing is much needed. It’s not easy being a big guy and trying to work under the dash. I have no mechanic training and it took me 1.5 hours. Make sure to torque the bolts per the instructions. Steering wheel is now tight again. Thanks for the video.
Been trying to track down that sound for months, new upper control arms , ball joints , tie rods and new bushings all around.... still didn't get rid of it ..the Tahoe is all good now thanks..
Worked perfectly for my 2003 2500hd. Thanks for the tips as they are the key to getting the job done fast. Also people said using pvc to get even pressure on it but the wrench worked just fine.
Just replaced my steering column bushing. If you have stabilitrak, like I do on my 04 Escalade, you will have a steering column position sensor on the inside of that bushing. The large opening where you were able to put the crescent wrench to "hammer" the bushing on is where the wiring harness for the bushing will go. But with this bushing in the way, it means I needed to remove the pedal (I have the adjustable pedals, and I disconnected my intermediate steering shaft, as it was really in the way of trying to get the bushing on the steering column. I kind of fubar'd my steering position sensor, and I may need to replace it. But now that I have taken everything apart, it should be kind of easy to replace this part.
Update; I used a GM part number (88963617), and it looks exactly like that Dorman part. I bet the GM and Dorman parts are made on the same assembly line and placed in different bags. I replaced the part back in Mar/Apr of 2019. Steering column is starting to clunk again. I'm just going to wrap electrical tape around that part of the steering column, and let it ride. GM makes the worst full-sized vehicles on the planet. It's not an accident GM has dropped to #3 in the truck game. No other vehicle on earth has a problem like this with a clunking steering wheel. Not sure how GM could screw this up, but they were able to find a way.
@@Peter_Riis_DK The grease goes on the outside not on the bearing, but I get get what you are saying. My point was it needs to swell up, its not the bearing that gets loose it the bushing in the housing
I’d love to live in a world where “tapping on it” with a 15/16ths wrench slides it into place. I spent half of an entire Saturday pressing and beating on it with every tool in the shop before I could get it into place. In the end, I had to cut a piece of schedule 80 pvc pipe and use a small pry bar to force it into place, lol.
I’ve read this also fixes steering wander. That’s why I’m having right now and it seriously annoying. Going to go shake the shaft around and see if that’s it.
I need to do this.. Wish I would have watched this video while it was still warm and dry out. . . Now I'm gonna have to wait until I have some decent outdoor weather to allow for the work. Inspection is coming at end of DEC for me, and most of the time the idiots who are inspecting it confidently tell me that the clunk is my drivers ball joint. Usually the lower one, though I've been told upper and both before. Then I have to explain to them the bearing, show pics and videos, explain that they had a hard time finding play in the ball joints because there is none, they're new.... And that they're just making excuses to get $700 for a ball joint swap, for a ball joint that costs $40, all over the sound in the steering, which itself cannot fail an inspection. And more times than not they just get mad and demand the $700 for the ball joint. Then I gotta get the emissions done only, then drive some 2 hours to my buddies shop who knows what he's doing, who realizes what the bearing is, and inspects it fairly. Firestone has been the utter worst about this here in PA... they tend to lie more or less all the time about everything, so I don't know what I was thinking trying to get an inspection with a steering bearing clunk. Surprised they didn't demand I buy a new engine off of them, along with rear end, doors, windows, motors, regulators, exhaust, and house. Regardless, as easy as this clearly is... I need to just do it at this point. I always knew WHAT it was, but never looked into actually doing it. As there was always something more important to fix. . . But, I've fixed all that at this point...so ... bearing time I suppose.
Replaced the intermediate and bearing and I wouldn't say the same... There is some weird clunking but not as bad as before. It's been a few thousand miles. Was thinking of doing the bearing again. I am a bit disappointed.
Thanks! I just ordered one. I previously used the Dorman 905-512 bearing and the Dorman 425-176 shaft. After 400 miles the noise was worse than before. I will try the oem replacement bearing and post results after its been installed for a while.@@barrymcguinn8758
Hey guys - I also replaced the intermediate shaft and the bearing. After a couple of months the clunk was back just a little bit... got under the dash to check and sure enough the Dorman 905-512 bearing had a ton of play in it. I just put back the OLD OEM bearing and packed it with grease, and now it feels like new. If I need a bearing again I'll order the OEM GM part. Did you guys have better luck with the OEM bearing?
Technical bulletin from gm. I have replaced about 50. Causing a bumping type noise, over small bumps. The slip joint sticks and causes lower column bearing failure
+James Wright That's interesting. I don't seem to have the lower column bearing failure at the moment but will keep and eye! Thanks for looking that up!! 👌👍
I have the same problem on a 2004 suburban 73k miles it got worse when I installed bilstein shocks aside from the bearing being bad I hated the ride quality with the bilsteins switched to rancho rs5000x no more noise better than factory zw7 ride
Great video! I have an 03 trailblazer. Does anyone know if this model has the same steering bearing? I have the symptoms described. I see post for Silverado and suburbans.
+Camo FPV Do you feel the clunks and rattles when going slow over bumps and uneven roads? Kinda feels like something is loose in your suspension. You'd definitely know it if you had the problem. I'd be surprised if you didn't.
I bought a Dorman 905-512 at a local parts store. Installed it. It was junk. Looser than the original. The original (white one) had grease in the center around the ball bearing and retainer. The Green Dorman one I bought was dry. I disassembled it to see what the problem was with it...bone dry. I installed it and grabbed the steering shaft u-joint and it moved all around clunk, Clunk, CLUNK! junk, Junk, JUNK! I looked at the original one and it has a hole where you can inject or pack grease into the ball bearings. The POS Dorman one don't. I packed the original one with grease, and coated the center hole for the shaft with grease, reinstalled it and it worked perfect again. So my advice; Remove your original (easy), pack it with grease and reinstall it. It will be fine for another 5 years or so. And got my $35 bucks back the same day. Some Dorman parts are OK. Not that one. Lol.
The two best things about this video: 1. Realizing I'm not the only one having this much trouble with it. 2. The tip about the 15/16ths wrench. I was a hair's width from just starting to beat on things with hammers. Pulling the upper steering shaft into the lower steering shaft was also not cool... not even a little bit.
Please when you travel and you say your speed your are traveling. Make sure the speed limit sign doesn't show. Speed limit sign showed 30mph. :):) But overall job. Excellent.....................
The truth the white bearing is better than the new, my truck is 2005 chevy with the clacking nose I replace the ou intermedia steering shaft because the joint was a little loose, but the old one had more resistance, must videos dont even show what is wrong with the are replacing, the problem I have is partially there, now to solve it I think I have to replace the front shocks, the problem is the left, but I must both
Well son of a bitch. I spoke too soon. As I was pushing the bushing into the steering column, the collar snapped off. Yay me. Now i have 2 inches of plastic inside the steering column and the bearing not seated. :)
Extremely rare that you need to replace that part. Remove the intermediate steering shaft and pump it full of grease. Collapse and extend it while keeping the grease inside so it spreads from top to bottom to fill the splines.That's what is causing steering shsft clunking.
Oh dude, no. Dorman is the worst. It will be broken in a few years. They are one of the most pathetic aftermarket brands out there. Get ready to do it again. Any mechanic will agree.
i have to say, fixing your own car is a good for you if you can, but some of your videos are going to get people hurt, or worse. some of your repairs should be done by professionals ONLY.
Jimmy!!!
I found another common problem with loose steering.
Take off top of steering column where red flasher is.
Start truck and turn the wheel and you will find 2 torx 25 bolts that are probably very loose?
Turn wheel as truck idles and tighten the other side. 2 total.
After I did most of the other stuff first.
I love you man. Im doing this on my mothers truck as we speak. I was going to light the truck on fire and say it was an accident, until i saw this video
2005 Tahoe, 225k miles, took me 3 hours. EVERYTHING was tight AF. I also broke the plastic bearing off, and had to dig it out of the column. Great video, helped a lot! Mine was a real bastard, however!
I want to say thank you Jimmy. I watched your video and I have to say that your video allowed me to complete this same task on my truck. I have a 2003 Chevy Suburban with the same issue. Now, no more noise. Thanks again. Your experience and videos do help. Great job. Your videos have helped me alot.
THANK YOU for the 15/16" end wrench tip (a 1" wrench worked even better for me). That was genius. I've had the clunk in my 2500 for years but I've read horror stories about swapping the part out. After watching your video it took me 15 minutes. Thanks for sharing.
On my 2004 Suburban, after rebuilding my front end suspension and steering (ball joints, tie rods, etc) the original steering bearing no longer rattles. I am guessing that if you have to replace the steering bearing after 2-3 years, you may want to look into replacing parts of your steering and suspension as well. After 17 years and 270K miles, it was about time for a rebuild anyhow. Everything is nice and tight again like when she was new. Happy trails!
Thank you for this video. All of the tips really helped. I used a ball peen hammer to assist the wrench. Now the clunk and looseness is gone! Best $15 spent on the truck so far
You motivated me to do it 😳30 min job🤗I turn the steering wheel to where the bolt head was pointed straight down and then locked in the seat belt😊I did not use the wrench with my hand and a glove I worked it in with pressure from my arm😎🤗🇺🇸and the noisy problem is solved🤗local mechanic quoted $400 to do it😱
Took me about an hour but well worth it. I was struggling at first until you brought out the 15/16 wrench idea and wow it took wonders lol. Thanks a bunch
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow forgot my password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Mauricio Jack Instablaster ;)
@Holden Barrett I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Holden Barrett it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account!
@Mauricio Jack Glad I could help :)
I watched this and your video for changing the intermediate shaft so I could have an understanding of the shaft connections. I want to undo the lower connection in order to move it out of the way so I can take out the exhaust manifold on my '03 Silverado 8.1 liter dually. Thanks, good video and I appreciate your decent language.
Nick Schuman Well I'm glad I could help. Thanks for the great comment!!
@@1RoadGarage love your vids, have watched many of them. Just finished this. Took me 1.5 hours but some of that was a few vodka cocktails and some was breaks because, right now, my back is in pretty bad shape. Everything went the same, but on mine I had to use a 1" or 1 1/16" actually worked better. I have an 04 Yukon. The hardest part for me was lining up the top of the intermediate shaft to the bottom of the steering shaft. 2 screwdrivers did the trick. 1 in the hole of the intermediate shaft and the other prying up on it. After that, no issues. Thanks again. I will keep watching.
2002 Suburban, bought it brand new, that part was replaced on an oil change visit while under warranty. Steering wheel would clunk while turning or hitting bumps. Haven't had a problem since, but i never knew the cause till now. Good video and it seems easy to do.
Woohoo, great vid!!!!! I'm gonna go put mine on now..................... EDIT: I put the bushing on, it was a PITA, took about an hour. Rattle all gone!! Thanks again. I examined the OEM part that I removed, but did not see any visible defect or wear, it seemed perfect... but it definitely rattled... weird
Just a comment, I did mine, the bearing generally isn't bad, the plastic housing often clunks in the metal housing, Soooo here is what I did and it worked great. slip some toothpicks ( I used 4 or 5) between the outside of the plastic and the inside of the metal to tighten the plastic bearing housing in the column. I did shorten the toothpicks to about 2/3 of full length, make them all the same, and insert the pointed end toward the steering wheel.
Or you could buy the twenty dollar part and spend an hour or so to do it correctly
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the bearing and the shaft in exactly 1 hour tools out to tools away. The shaft required a few light taps of the hammer to get the lower end to be properly shaped to fit into the lower shaft. I used Dorman parts for both pieces. You’re right. Getting the bearing in is kind of a pain and it would help to use an axle nut socket to tap it in. Definitely lock the steering wheel with the seatbelt and it is much easier to remove the gas pedal.
Thanks for sharing. I'm doing this same repair in the AM. I hope my results are as good as yours. It's all about the angles man!
Craig and? How did it go?
Awesome video and very informative. Didn’t have a 15/16 wrench on me at the time so used a 36mm axle nut socket and tapped right in with ease.
First, you helped me so much with my rebuild of an 88 c1500 single cab, long bed pickup belonging to my grandfather. Have a blessed thanksgiving!
THANK YOU! YOU TOO!
The extra ribs gave me the idea to put a small piece of paper out of a cigarette pack folded in first then slide my old bushing back in. Paper gave it a more snug fit. Took it for a rip and made a big improvement on the clunk!
I did this yesterday to my 2006 Silverado. Replaced both bearing and intermediate shaft. Went with the Dorman parts instead of GM because I want to see how long they last. The suggestion of using the wrench to help push in the bearing worked great. Greasing the bearing is much needed. It’s not easy being a big guy and trying to work under the dash. I have no mechanic training and it took me 1.5 hours. Make sure to torque the bolts per the instructions. Steering wheel is now tight again. Thanks for the video.
Been trying to track down that sound for months, new upper control arms , ball joints , tie rods and new bushings all around.... still didn't get rid of it ..the Tahoe is all good now thanks..
Mi mismo problema. Lo voy a reparar, y espero q se arregle. 😊
It took me 10 minutes to do it and it works great
Worked perfectly for my 2003 2500hd. Thanks for the tips as they are the key to getting the job done fast. Also people said using pvc to get even pressure on it but the wrench worked just fine.
What a difference that bearing does, Just did mine and feels like a new truck and no more noise.
15/16 did the trick! Thanks for the help.
Great Job, voice is clear and loud, good video, perfect =)
Very good coverage and interesting.
Nice work Jim, you made it look easy!
Great job Jimmy, as usual. 👍🤙😃
Good job man viva mexico 🎉
Thanks for this video, it helped me fix my 02 suburban! !
Looking forward to doing this job.
I installed this exact same part and it fixed the problem. It was made of plastic though so it could just wear out.
+Charles McGoldrick III Nice! I think there's gotta be a reason why they're made of plastic... Maybe for ease of installing??
Just replaced my steering column bushing. If you have stabilitrak, like I do on my 04 Escalade, you will have a steering column position sensor on the inside of that bushing. The large opening where you were able to put the crescent wrench to "hammer" the bushing on is where the wiring harness for the bushing will go. But with this bushing in the way, it means I needed to remove the pedal (I have the adjustable pedals, and I disconnected my intermediate steering shaft, as it was really in the way of trying to get the bushing on the steering column. I kind of fubar'd my steering position sensor, and I may need to replace it. But now that I have taken everything apart, it should be kind of easy to replace this part.
Update; I used a GM part number (88963617), and it looks exactly like that Dorman part. I bet the GM and Dorman parts are made on the same assembly line and placed in different bags. I replaced the part back in Mar/Apr of 2019. Steering column is starting to clunk again. I'm just going to wrap electrical tape around that part of the steering column, and let it ride. GM makes the worst full-sized vehicles on the planet. It's not an accident GM has dropped to #3 in the truck game. No other vehicle on earth has a problem like this with a clunking steering wheel. Not sure how GM could screw this up, but they were able to find a way.
do you also get a rubbing sound as well? like 2 pieces of rubber rubbing against each other...?
Do not use ordinary grease on nylon bearings - that will make it swell up. Use silicon grease. Just a general observation.
Maybe if it swelled up it wouldn't go clunk...
@@integr8er66
OR... It wouldn't go at all.
@@Peter_Riis_DK The grease goes on the outside not on the bearing, but I get get what you are saying. My point was it needs to swell up, its not the bearing that gets loose it the bushing in the housing
I’d love to live in a world where “tapping on it” with a 15/16ths wrench slides it into place. I spent half of an entire Saturday pressing and beating on it with every tool in the shop before I could get it into place. In the end, I had to cut a piece of schedule 80 pvc pipe and use a small pry bar to force it into place, lol.
I’ve read this also fixes steering wander. That’s why I’m having right now and it seriously annoying. Going to go shake the shaft around and see if that’s it.
Is that the only bolt you had to remove
You can use an1 1/8 derp socket and long extension to tap the bearing into place makes it very easy if the steering shaft is out of the way.
All of my sockets are derp sockets.
thanks so much for this review video...great job. 👍🏻🔧🛠🔩
yet another reason i love my 94
I need to do this.. Wish I would have watched this video while it was still warm and dry out. . . Now I'm gonna have to wait until I have some decent outdoor weather to allow for the work. Inspection is coming at end of DEC for me, and most of the time the idiots who are inspecting it confidently tell me that the clunk is my drivers ball joint. Usually the lower one, though I've been told upper and both before. Then I have to explain to them the bearing, show pics and videos, explain that they had a hard time finding play in the ball joints because there is none, they're new.... And that they're just making excuses to get $700 for a ball joint swap, for a ball joint that costs $40, all over the sound in the steering, which itself cannot fail an inspection. And more times than not they just get mad and demand the $700 for the ball joint. Then I gotta get the emissions done only, then drive some 2 hours to my buddies shop who knows what he's doing, who realizes what the bearing is, and inspects it fairly. Firestone has been the utter worst about this here in PA... they tend to lie more or less all the time about everything, so I don't know what I was thinking trying to get an inspection with a steering bearing clunk. Surprised they didn't demand I buy a new engine off of them, along with rear end, doors, windows, motors, regulators, exhaust, and house. Regardless, as easy as this clearly is... I need to just do it at this point. I always knew WHAT it was, but never looked into actually doing it. As there was always something more important to fix. . . But, I've fixed all that at this point...so ... bearing time I suppose.
How did this repair hold up? I replaced the bearing and intermediate shaft. The clunking is back after just 400 miles.
Replaced the intermediate and bearing and I wouldn't say the same... There is some weird clunking but not as bad as before. It's been a few thousand miles. Was thinking of doing the bearing again. I am a bit disappointed.
Go with the gm part. For my Escalade esv, the part number is 88963617. Probably the same for other gmt800 models.
Thanks! I just ordered one. I previously used the Dorman 905-512 bearing and the Dorman 425-176 shaft. After 400 miles the noise was worse than before. I will try the oem replacement bearing and post results after its been installed for a while.@@barrymcguinn8758
Hey guys - I also replaced the intermediate shaft and the bearing. After a couple of months the clunk was back just a little bit... got under the dash to check and sure enough the Dorman 905-512 bearing had a ton of play in it. I just put back the OLD OEM bearing and packed it with grease, and now it feels like new. If I need a bearing again I'll order the OEM GM part.
Did you guys have better luck with the OEM bearing?
Peter Cook did you get this done?
Good video ✊🏼
Thanks for the video. Super helpful.
So could you do a video on the turn signal cam. My left turn signal won't turn off after turn is complete. But my right turn signal is fine.
Big help. Thank you brother. I just finished mine. You were spot on. Thank you!
.
Thanks for posting this video.
how about show us the clunk first???!!!! so we can figure if it sounds the same!
Technical bulletin from gm. I have replaced about 50. Causing a bumping type noise, over small bumps. The slip joint sticks and causes lower column bearing failure
+James Wright That's interesting. I don't seem to have the lower column bearing failure at the moment but will keep and eye! Thanks for looking that up!! 👌👍
What’s the two year update? Still holding up?
Did you have any play in the steering wheel beforehand? What about after?
Great video 👍
1 Road question, it was not necessary that you change the Steering Intermediate Shaft ?
Thanks for the video awesome video but it took me 10 minutes works great no more rattle
You should have shown the clunk
Thank you Jesus
Thanks for reading, by the way. Thumbs up!
I have the same problem on a 2004 suburban 73k miles it got worse when I installed bilstein shocks aside from the bearing being bad I hated the ride quality with the bilsteins switched to rancho rs5000x no more noise better than factory zw7 ride
This is a mandatory replacement part imo. Especially if u have any play in the steering wheel. It's cheap and makes the tahoe handle like new. Safer.
MegaHowtoMan huh that’s makes sooooo much sense. I’ve got too much play
Totally gunna do it
Great video! I have an 03 trailblazer. Does anyone know if this model has the same steering bearing? I have the symptoms described. I see post for Silverado and suburbans.
Check out Amazon it lets you put in your info of your truck & then tells you which one is needed
What’s the symptoms of clunky steering? Like mine moves slightly and makes some noise but it’s quite quite
+Camo FPV Do you feel the clunks and rattles when going slow over bumps and uneven roads? Kinda feels like something is loose in your suspension. You'd definitely know it if you had the problem. I'd be surprised if you didn't.
my silverado hass 500 k, it has a bit of play and you can slightly hear it at low speeds. im going to replace it anyway because its cheap lol
I bought a Dorman 905-512 at a local parts store. Installed it. It was junk. Looser than the original. The original (white one) had grease in the center around the ball bearing and retainer. The Green Dorman one I bought was dry. I disassembled it to see what the problem was with it...bone dry. I installed it and grabbed the steering shaft u-joint and it moved all around clunk, Clunk, CLUNK! junk, Junk, JUNK! I looked at the original one and it has a hole where you can inject or pack grease into the ball bearings. The POS Dorman one don't. I packed the original one with grease, and coated the center hole for the shaft with grease, reinstalled it and it worked perfect again. So my advice; Remove your original (easy), pack it with grease and reinstall it. It will be fine for another 5 years or so. And got my $35 bucks back the same day. Some Dorman parts are OK. Not that one. Lol.
Thanks for the info
Do you recommend Dorman over OEM bearing?
Bader Al-Koot No I don’t with Dormans track record.
The two best things about this video:
1. Realizing I'm not the only one having this much trouble with it.
2. The tip about the 15/16ths wrench.
I was a hair's width from just starting to beat on things with hammers.
Pulling the upper steering shaft into the lower steering shaft was also not cool... not even a little bit.
Please when you travel and you say your speed your are traveling. Make sure the speed limit sign doesn't show. Speed limit sign showed 30mph. :):) But overall job. Excellent.....................
The truth the white bearing is better than the new, my truck is 2005 chevy with the clacking nose I replace the ou intermedia steering shaft because the joint was a little loose, but the old one had more resistance, must videos dont even show what is wrong with the are replacing, the problem I have is partially there, now to solve it I think I have to replace the front shocks, the problem is the left, but I must both
I heard the clunking that sounded like a wheel getting ready to fall off. About a mile later the wheel bearing exploded on my 1991 k1500
+Brandon Alley 🤣🤣🤣
Question good people....is the same on a GMC Sierra 2009
I'll be waiting for your wise answer
10:50 what up with the dashboard lights?
Dee Zee camera that records the video has a faster frame rate and so can record the off of lights
9:24
Tips for life guys....
your mom 😂😂😂
Well son of a bitch. I spoke too soon. As I was pushing the bushing into the steering column, the collar snapped off. Yay me. Now i have 2 inches of plastic inside the steering column and the bearing not seated. :)
First you need to fix the intermediate steering shaft that caused the bearing failure....
+James Wright Curious why the intermediate shaft would be the cause??
1 Road they have bearing failure. even the updated shaft will do it after a month.
I changed the bearing and intermediate shaft on my 02 Silverado...now it's so tight it squeaks
One word: GREASE!
I used that part greased it lasted 4 months rattling again, junk
Lol just put a hose clamp on the old one
I think the new design is in no way superior to the old one.
What a ridiculous defect. Did GM not test these cars out? Absurd.
Nick S. my truck has almost 500k and I just changed it from original. I think it did well for an original part lol
Extremely rare that you need to replace that part. Remove the intermediate steering shaft and pump it full of grease. Collapse and extend it while keeping the grease inside so it spreads from top to bottom to fill the splines.That's what is causing steering shsft clunking.
notoriousscottyb Smith Actually it isn't that rare, there are lots of GM trucks with the exact bearing failure.
It's super common...
Dry common. All of my Chevy trucks did this. My current one is the worse one.
Oh dude, no. Dorman is the worst. It will be broken in a few years. They are one of the most pathetic aftermarket brands out there. Get ready to do it again. Any mechanic will agree.
+Bad Drivers of North Texas They're the only company I know if making the replacement...
I would have gone with OEM then.
I hate Dorman too but mostly its their electronics and engine parts which are crap. He'll be fine with that plastic steering bearing.
This has to be replaced over and over again, every 2 year max on these models
i have to say, fixing your own car is a good for you if you can, but some of your videos are going to get people hurt, or worse. some of your repairs should be done by professionals ONLY.