I want to put out a great big thank you to the grayfurnaceman I have come across many problems with my mothers old Montgomery ward oil furnace which I know absolutely nothing about and you have helped me fix every one of the problems with your videos , I think it is wonderful how you volunteer your time to helping us so whether you know it or not you are a great man thank you sir. Michael brown.
Nice video. I got a service call some yrs. back and the old timer said he had no heat. Very cold weather and a very old house with stone foundation. He had a brand new boiler, ran it out of oil and froze it up, split it wide open. Customer thought it was the electricity that made it quit. What a shame. Thanks for the video.
Hello, You have tons of wonderful info, especially for the DIYer or learning HVAC or other various skills! Great, concise info. I just had a pressure switch problem on first startup of season, and watched those videos. Turns out there was moisture in the tubing (20 yr. old Amer. Stand. 90) and, according to the furnace repair guy, had shorted out the pressure switch. There is even water inside it. So, it was fine all night and then this a.m. it's off again PLUS the blower motor (I think it is, it's right in front in the top compartment and not attached to the actual blower) was very hot when I went to look and I could smell it. Not asking for any diagosis, etc--will have them out again Monday because they have no weekend emergency number--ugh! I'm in Michigan's Upper Peninsula so it's cold. Can't do this stuff myself as not enough safe knowledge--just an old lady who likes to be somewhat informed on any kind of issues. Anyway, he replaced the pressure switch with a generic one and I read somewhere in my researching that A.S. furnaces do not always react well without actual A.S. replacement parts, and generic parts often fail in short time. There is no water in the tubing now--I checked, but same signal and I'm wondering if it could be a defective part or if the non-A.S. parts thing is true? Then the motor--I noticed one thing this morning that I wonder if affected anything. He replaced the outside furnace panels in the wrong positions, top one (which is solid with glass eyehole)on the bottom and bottom one (with vented ribs) on the top. In your opinion, would that affect anything inside the furnace? Not quoting anyone or anything, just wondering what you thought. Thanks so much and sorry for the long post, didn't see a way to message you. Barb
The generic switch should not be used. They are not right for the furnace. The panels could cause problems if not installed correctly. Return air could be coming in at the furnace thru the vented ribs. GFM
Same here lights were flickering then furnace died and zero power or lights but it’s still getting power says the electrician. What was your issue? Was it solved?
HI had a no power issue that came up/ for the life of me could not find it/ went thru checklist it had a old type fuse which i replaced still no power , called a man turned out to be rust and dirt in between contacts he clean it and now have power
My Powermate 3400W generator won't turn on my NEW gas furnace! It did run the old oil furnace. When utility power to house came back on, the furnace started. The generator sockets have 3rd ground hole The ground is already connected to neutral side. The power out at end of 3 prong extension cord was 60cycle AC 117volts. The cord was checked for ground at both ends. What's wrong? The male plug on furnace side has poor ground. The socket on furnace has loose connection for plug. Is the new gas furnace in lockout mode? Service sheet says no power. No red light on board. Door switch has power. Does the new Airtemp gas furnace have a timed off period before allowing main circuit board to turn on? No response from contractor. He has the plague...
Grayfurnaceman, or anybody else: I recently replaced my motor on an old Beckett AFG. I stripped out the screw that holds the blower wheel on so I figured I’ll replace that and the coupling too. Anyway, when I pulled the motor out I noticed the coupling was what looks like a centrifugal set up on the pump side that opens a disc shaped door when the thing spools up (pulls disc towards pump to let combustion air in) I ended up cleaning it and using the pump end of the coupling as it was. Is this style still being used or should I eliminate it it and tune the burner in without it? I’d guess its to stop air drafting through the combustion chamber as soon as the burner stops? Was this Beckett’s “water saver toilet” idea? Has been working fine for a long time. Thanks!
It is to prevent cold air from coming into the combustion chamber during the off cycle and thus cooling the combustion chamber.It is often connected to an outside air duct. GFM
grayfurnaceman Thanks for responding! You wouldn’t know if they still make that style coupling or what it’s called? It seems like it’s a good idea as far as efficiency goes, letting the heat x heat to dissipate into the house rather than out the smoke pipe? I would think it be good for the fire box too letting it cool slower? Maybe the benefits are negligible and only for a fresh air system (which I don’t have) Thanks for your help and thanks for all your videos! I’ve really learned a lot from you the past couple years, hope you keep making them!
For the switch reason I as a journeyman electrician will not put the furnace switch next to the switch for the light. It goes on the furnace like yours except I pipe into it with conduit.
if you do an hvac switch beside a light switch, use a standard switch and place a guard over it, one that you have to stick you finger in from the side to toggle and label it properly. none of the locations except up high on the ceiling will stop kids from fiddling with them though.....
Hey greyfurnaceman, i commented a few weeks ago about my waste oil burner leaving oil in the furnace. We solved that by putting a metal bucket with small holes in the furnace and everything was good till yesterday. The furnace still works good, no oil build up but now it kind of backfires, and falls in safety. If we leave the inspection hole open it burns verry nice without any problems as soon as we close the inspection hole it backfires and shuts down. Pleas help me.
I like your Pinhead avatar. Hellraiser was one of the best horror movie franchises, ever. Maybe he should of said, "if your T-stat does NOT use batteries to operate and the screen is blank, you MAY have a line voltage issue or a bad T-stat."
I have a Crown Boiler model number ABF-140SPD the boiler has power I tried starting the boiler with the pilot switch but it would not ignite, Is it possible to light the pilot by hand? the owners manuel says do not light it by hand
You saved the day! My wife thought the switch was for a light and left it off.
Excellent video. Spent 30min taking the furnace apart and testing wires. My 9 year old hit a switch I didn’t know existed😂😂
Thank you!!!! My son must have turned the switch off! I’ve never seen a furnace with a switch before!!
I just love Dr. Phil's videos...so well done! I'll bet nobody knows he does HVAC on the side !!!
Shh! That's supposed to be a secret.
GFM
I want to put out a great big thank you to the grayfurnaceman I have come across many problems with my mothers old Montgomery ward oil furnace which I know absolutely nothing about and you have helped me fix every one of the problems with your videos , I think it is wonderful how you volunteer your time to helping us so whether you know it or not you are a great man thank you sir. Michael brown.
Thanks for the support.
GFM
Always learn something from your channels. Many thanks.
Welcome
GFM
Thanks I fixed my heat by checking fuse box.. didn't expect it was tripped.. your video helped..
Nice video. I got a service call some yrs. back and the old timer said he had no heat. Very cold weather and a very old house with stone foundation. He had a brand new boiler, ran it out of oil and froze it up, split it wide open. Customer thought it was the electricity that made it quit. What a shame. Thanks for the video.
Hello, You have tons of wonderful info, especially for the DIYer or learning HVAC or other various skills! Great, concise info. I just had a pressure switch problem on first startup of season, and watched those videos. Turns out there was moisture in the tubing (20 yr. old Amer. Stand. 90) and, according to the furnace repair guy, had shorted out the pressure switch. There is even water inside it. So, it was fine all night and then this a.m. it's off again PLUS the blower motor (I think it is, it's right in front in the top compartment and not attached to the actual blower) was very hot when I went to look and I could smell it.
Not asking for any diagosis, etc--will have them out again Monday because they have no weekend emergency number--ugh! I'm in Michigan's Upper Peninsula so it's cold. Can't do this stuff myself as not enough safe knowledge--just an old lady who likes to be somewhat informed on any kind of issues. Anyway, he replaced the pressure switch with a generic one and I read somewhere in my researching that A.S. furnaces do not always react well without actual A.S. replacement parts, and generic parts often fail in short time. There is no water in the tubing now--I checked, but same signal and I'm wondering if it could be a defective part or if the non-A.S. parts thing is true?
Then the motor--I noticed one thing this morning that I wonder if affected anything. He replaced the outside furnace panels in the wrong positions, top one (which is solid with glass eyehole)on the bottom and bottom one (with vented ribs) on the top. In your opinion, would that affect anything inside the furnace? Not quoting anyone or anything, just wondering what you thought.
Thanks so much and sorry for the long post, didn't see a way to message you. Barb
The generic switch should not be used. They are not right for the furnace. The panels could cause problems if not installed correctly. Return air could be coming in at the furnace thru the vented ribs.
GFM
Thank you
Thank you very much! We just had this issue , turned out it was the switch !
Glad you got it going.
GFM
Where's the second video???? My furnace will not kick on and all the electricity's good to it so I don't know what to check next
Did you find the issue? If so what was it mine is the same right now.
rocker switch, those are commonly known and listed as "decora style", same for all the other rectangle shaped devices fitting in the same holes
My light flickered then furnace died. LED is off. Luckily it's nice and I can try some stuff. Ty for video
Same here lights were flickering then furnace died and zero power or lights but it’s still getting power says the electrician. What was your issue? Was it solved?
HI had a no power issue that came up/ for the life of me could not find it/ went thru checklist it had a old type fuse which i replaced still no power , called a man turned out to be rust and dirt in between contacts he clean it and now have power
Great video. Thanks you for shared
Welcome
GM
My Powermate 3400W generator won't turn on my NEW gas furnace! It did run the old oil furnace. When utility power to house came back on, the furnace started. The generator sockets have 3rd ground hole The ground is already connected to neutral side. The power out at end of 3 prong extension cord was 60cycle AC 117volts. The cord was checked for ground at both ends. What's wrong? The male plug on furnace side has poor ground. The socket on furnace has loose connection for plug. Is the new gas furnace in lockout mode? Service sheet says no power. No red light on board. Door switch has power. Does the new Airtemp gas furnace have a timed off period before allowing main circuit board to turn on? No response from contractor. He has the plague...
The short answer is: Generators may or may not work with the electronics of newer furnaces.
GFM
Some thermostats are battery powered, which can be misleading.
Grayfurnaceman, or anybody else:
I recently replaced my motor on an old Beckett AFG. I stripped out the screw that holds the blower wheel on so I figured I’ll replace that and the coupling too. Anyway, when I pulled the motor out I noticed the coupling was what looks like a centrifugal set up on the pump side that opens a disc shaped door when the thing spools up (pulls disc towards pump to let combustion air in) I ended up cleaning it and using the pump end of the coupling as it was. Is this style still being used or should I eliminate it it and tune the burner in without it? I’d guess its to stop air drafting through the combustion chamber as soon as the burner stops? Was this Beckett’s “water saver toilet” idea? Has been working fine for a long time. Thanks!
It is to prevent cold air from coming into the combustion chamber during the off cycle and thus cooling the combustion chamber.It is often connected to an outside air duct.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Thanks for responding! You wouldn’t know if they still make that style coupling or what it’s called? It seems like it’s a good idea as far as efficiency goes, letting the heat x heat to dissipate into the house rather than out the smoke pipe? I would think it be good for the fire box too letting it cool slower? Maybe the benefits are negligible and only for a fresh air system (which I don’t have) Thanks for your help and thanks for all your videos! I’ve really learned a lot from you the past couple years, hope you keep making them!
For the switch reason I as a journeyman electrician will not put the furnace switch next to the switch for the light. It goes on the furnace like yours except I pipe into it with conduit.
I wish all electricians did as you do. Good point on the conduit.
GFM
wise idea, to not have a code violation lol
if you do an hvac switch beside a light switch, use a standard switch and place a guard over it, one that you have to stick you finger in from the side to toggle and label it properly.
none of the locations except up high on the ceiling will stop kids from fiddling with them though.....
Hey greyfurnaceman, i commented a few weeks ago about my waste oil burner leaving oil in the furnace. We solved that by putting a metal bucket with small holes in the furnace and everything was good till yesterday. The furnace still works good, no oil build up but now it kind of backfires, and falls in safety. If we leave the inspection hole open it burns verry nice without any problems as soon as we close the inspection hole it backfires and shuts down. Pleas help me.
Sounds like the air adjustment is set too low. You could also have a blocked vent.
GFM
Do all oil furnaces have a switch?
Also, I'm here because my power kept going out. When the power came back on and stayed on, the furnace doesn't get power. But, the blower does?....
some thing you did not touch on a battery thermos that
I like your Pinhead avatar. Hellraiser was one of the best horror movie franchises, ever.
Maybe he should of said, "if your T-stat does NOT use batteries to operate and the screen is blank, you MAY have a line voltage issue or a bad T-stat."
Good point
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman the only reason I said any thing is because mine has batteries and every year I change them with the smoke detectors
That, and also by looking in the site glass, you can see a light on the board, confirms unit has power.
I have a Crown Boiler model number ABF-140SPD the boiler has power I tried starting the boiler with the pilot switch but it would not ignite, Is it possible to light the pilot by hand? the owners manuel says do not light it by hand
I would either call for service or troubleshoot to find out why it does not come on.
GFM
I did all that n still no power at all to my furnace
Time to call for service.
GFM
Hello. I am learning so much from your video's. Would you take a look at my video of my furnace and offer advice. Thank you.