After use I always clean them with a steel brush and then spray it with WD-40, sharp them 4 to 8 times a year. Anyway great video, keep up the great work! 🇳🇱
Nice one, I've got a few in for sharpening at the moment, they all have a thin plate that goes between the circle washers under the white bar and the top blade. Not sure why yours hasn't got it.
Interesting I don't think ours has ever had that. I do have a newer model which now has a metal plate at the bottom probably to stop debris getting into it.
I have the hedge trimmer attachment.....im doing a service on the piece but have a problem....the 2 blade retainer nuts are deeply sunk into the chassis....7 mm if I'm not mistaken....very difficult to get a socket on to....most of my equipment is Stihl and this is one of the worst design flaws I have ever came across....once I get the 2 nuts n bolts out I will either use washers to push the nut higher or make the recess wider by drilling the edges giving more access
You need a "thin walled" 1/4" drive x 8mm socket. They are normally sold as a 4mm to 13mm "impact" set but can be purchased individually. Just fits snug in that tight recess you mention.
@@MrGardener18 it's OK. Many thanks for reply though. I figured it out there's a retaining screw under the black cover that then allows you to unscrew mounting bolt. Thank god for you guys , your help is invaluable . Many thanks
I took mine apart, cleaned it and regreased it. It moves slowly but moves. I thought I put in too much grease but see it was about how much you added. I went back and removed a lot of the grease I added in the gear box prior to seeing your video. Should I go back and add more in the port? What else could make it go slowly as I cleaned the blades very well and wd'd them again once reinstalled. Thanks
The screws which hold the blades in place down the full length of blades, do these get fully tightened ? Or left with a bit of play to allow blades to move ?
@@Tropazio Once the under side (blades etc) have been removed, this free's up the bearing and cam on that side. Then flip it, remove the black handle on the otherwise. You'll see a nut holding the other side of the cam (spur) drive. Undo the nut and the cam spur drive can now just fall out. There is then a bearing on that side too, check for wear. Been a hold up for spares with Stihl, but now back on line. I replaced cam and bearings.
@@sleepinglioness5754 Stihl do sell a bent tooth straightener kits for hedge cutter and I believe they've have done a video on its so worth looking for that. In practice you want to secure the blade on the vice with the offending tooth up then with pliers or something to grip the tooth just bend it back I've not tried it and I'm sure it is quite difficult to be it back perfect but worth a Go. Do wear gloves and take care.
@@sleepinglioness5754 it probably would but I wouldn't recommend it. just in case it had damage the whole blade units and therefore make the blade weaker.
🤣 you didn’t remove the main cam follower. You’ll have dirt buried under them. Also it sounded so rough when you hand turned the shaft. Your needle bearings are knackered.
Thank you.. with this video i managed to get it fixed👍👍👍
Nice one 👍✂️
After use I always clean them with a steel brush and then spray it with WD-40, sharp them 4 to 8 times a year. Anyway great video, keep up the great work! 🇳🇱
cheer mate.
ideally you want a lubricant spray, wd40 isn't a lubricant it removes any lubricant if anything.
@@GregsMowing it removes resins that build up in between the blades from all the cutter materials.
👍. An essential bit of maintenance, my ego trimmers need greasing daily . I have not replaced blades yet , the gearboxes pack in first. 😐
Nice one, I've got a few in for sharpening at the moment, they all have a thin plate that goes between the circle washers under the white bar and the top blade. Not sure why yours hasn't got it.
Interesting I don't think ours has ever had that. I do have a newer model which now has a metal plate at the bottom probably to stop debris getting into it.
Great! It's all I needed, this video!cheers!!
I have the hedge trimmer attachment.....im doing a service on the piece but have a problem....the 2 blade retainer nuts are deeply sunk into the chassis....7 mm if I'm not mistaken....very difficult to get a socket on to....most of my equipment is Stihl and this is one of the worst design flaws I have ever came across....once I get the 2 nuts n bolts out I will either use washers to push the nut higher or make the recess wider by drilling the edges giving more access
I have the exact same problem. Cant seem to get anything that will fit to hold them. Very frustrating
You need a "thin walled" 1/4" drive x 8mm socket.
They are normally sold as a 4mm to 13mm "impact" set but can be purchased individually.
Just fits snug in that tight recess you mention.
I took a grinder to a socket and it worked treat...thanks guys
So reassemble and wait till I feel like dropping another 40 on a set I wouldn't otherwise need to do a job that should be easy 😵
@@jayeff3196 Great idea!
Brother. Question. how too remove the mounting screw for this head. That keeps the head swivel mounted
@@jindo74 that I'm not sure. I have recently had a problem with that but i had to take it to the dealership to get it fixed.
@@MrGardener18 it's OK. Many thanks for reply though. I figured it out there's a retaining screw under the black cover that then allows you to unscrew mounting bolt. Thank god for you guys , your help is invaluable . Many thanks
I took mine apart, cleaned it and regreased it. It moves slowly but moves. I thought I put in too much grease but see it was about how much you added. I went back and removed a lot of the grease I added in the gear box prior to seeing your video. Should I go back and add more in the port? What else could make it go slowly as I cleaned the blades very well and wd'd them again once reinstalled. Thanks
The screws which hold the blades in place down the full length of blades, do these get fully tightened ? Or left with a bit of play to allow blades to move ?
They do want to be tight but not over tightened so the blades can't move.
Thanks, would have been good if you lifted out the cam drive too, 1, to check the wear, and 2 clean out the greese etc.
Had mine apart but saw no way to remove cam drive.... How to do that?
@@Tropazio Once the under side (blades etc) have been removed, this free's up the bearing and cam on that side. Then flip it, remove the black handle on the otherwise. You'll see a nut holding the other side of the cam (spur) drive. Undo the nut and the cam spur drive can now just fall out. There is then a bearing on that side too, check for wear. Been a hold up for spares with Stihl, but now back on line. I replaced cam and bearings.
@@911aircooled5 Many thanks
Needed this while ago..😊
Excellent
Thanks
Can you help....How do you repair a bent tooth on a hedge trimmer? Electric in my case.
@@sleepinglioness5754 Stihl do sell a bent tooth straightener kits for hedge cutter and I believe they've have done a video on its so worth looking for that. In practice you want to secure the blade on the vice with the offending tooth up then with pliers or something to grip the tooth just bend it back I've not tried it and I'm sure it is quite difficult to be it back perfect but worth a Go. Do wear gloves and take care.
@@MrGardener18 Excellent! Thank you so much. Appreciate this information.
Out of curiosity...would it still work if the tooth completely breaks off?
@@sleepinglioness5754 it probably would but I wouldn't recommend it. just in case it had damage the whole blade units and therefore make the blade weaker.
@@MrGardener18 Noted....thanks so much. If only I were rich, I'd hire someone to just use their garden tools!! Thanks again, MrGardener.
@@MrGardener18 Ok....just planning ahead. Thanks again.
🤣 you didn’t remove the main cam follower. You’ll have dirt buried under them. Also it sounded so rough when you hand turned the shaft. Your needle bearings are knackered.
@@SuperDouginator thanks for the advice.