Great to see a Pete’s Garage video. Ah the good old days. You could purchase the part cheap install it check it out to make sure it works and your done. No electronics involved just a connector no programming like on today’s cars. Things were so simple. Looking forward to your premium channel. Artie 😊🇺🇸
I sent it to your email but there's a machine shop in Menomonee Falls Wisconsin call Fast Times holy crap do they do incredible work, they have left me with a big smile on my face on quite a few occasions. There's a shop in Phoenix Arizona called loper's Performance Center. They did the machine work on my Blown 572 Polara, when I had it I used to race it at Firebird Raceway. But then I sold it and built the hell out of my 68 LeMans and like a stupid idiot move to Wisconsin.
I would step on my brake and the light would not go on till end of braking. , spring was very rigid. Took it apart squeezed it with pliers several times, also put a spacer to allow the lights to come on sooner. Worked.
@@PetesGarageI had this issue forever and couldn't figure it out, then one day i got tired of it laughing at me (lol) and i decided to tackle the issue. What happens is a lot of times the black inside bushing gets worn and falls off or disintegrates etc,since its not there anymore the rod will push on the switch but that nice black bushing is not there anymore so the rod has a little extra travel, what that does is it bends the switch plunger,it will still work and your lights will come on fine however the plunger on the switch is no longer flat, it is now curved. One day you are changing your booster cause it went out and you tell yourself "wow, that black bushing is not there anymore, im gonna order a new one,you put in it, happy that you are putting everything back original and guess what? your brake lights dont work anymore!!! the solution? a new switch along with your new black bushing or just leave the old switch but no black bushing,you cant have both OR you can try and bend the plunger straight again and try it but most of the time it wont work,new switch is in order.
Hi Pete, I am building a 70's Ford 460 that will be run on propane. My limited understanding of how propane compares to gasoline during compression. I am watching your engine building series and you are talking about the compression ratio. I have heard that propane needs much more compression than gasoline, so with that said I am looking for a compression ratio around 11:1 or 12:1, is this right?
D & L Performance Machine 1502 Norman St, Wichita Falls, TX 76302 (940) 766-1357 Full Service shop, the owners name is Dave. I personally have had good experiences with my block machining/cylinder head requirements. He does a great deal of work for dirt track racers in the area.
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Great to see a Pete’s Garage video. Ah the good old days. You could purchase the part cheap install it check it out to make sure it works and your done. No electronics involved just a connector no programming like on today’s cars. Things were so simple. Looking forward to your premium channel. Artie 😊🇺🇸
You got that right Artie!
I sent it to your email but there's a machine shop in Menomonee Falls Wisconsin call Fast Times holy crap do they do incredible work, they have left me with a big smile on my face on quite a few occasions.
There's a shop in Phoenix Arizona called loper's Performance Center. They did the machine work on my Blown 572 Polara, when I had it I used to race it at Firebird Raceway. But then I sold it and built the hell out of my 68 LeMans and like a stupid idiot move to Wisconsin.
Awesome! Thanks again Bill
Love the 350 build videos im building a LT1 for my 95 Trans Am and your videos have helped me tremendously its my first time and ive learned a ton!
That's awesome, thanks Steven
I would step on my brake and the light would not go on till end of braking. , spring was very rigid. Took it apart squeezed it with pliers several times, also put a spacer to allow the lights to come on sooner. Worked.
Old cars are fun
They have Nick's garage on RUclips he's somewhere in Canada I've never been there but he seems to do a lot of good work he has a giant shop
Thanks Bill
Video starts at 2:33
Thanks
What about bushings? Do you need to reinstall them? Do you need more than one seen on the push rod (white)?
Yes you do. These are really tricky because the length of the push rod will hold the light on or not turn it on.
@@PetesGarageI had this issue forever and couldn't figure it out, then one day i got tired of it laughing at me (lol) and i decided to tackle the issue.
What happens is a lot of times the black inside bushing gets worn and falls off or disintegrates etc,since its not there anymore the rod will push on the switch but that nice black bushing is not there anymore so the rod has a little extra travel, what that does is it bends the switch plunger,it will still work and your lights will come on fine however the plunger on the switch is no longer flat, it is now curved.
One day you are changing your booster cause it went out and you tell yourself "wow, that black bushing is not there anymore, im gonna order a new one,you put in it, happy that you are putting everything back original and guess what? your brake lights dont work anymore!!! the solution? a new switch along with your new black bushing or just leave the old switch but no black bushing,you cant have both OR you can try and bend the plunger straight again and try it but most of the time it wont work,new switch is in order.
Hi Pete,
I am building a 70's Ford 460 that will be run on propane. My limited understanding of how propane compares to gasoline during compression. I am watching your engine building series and you are talking about the compression ratio. I have heard that propane needs much more compression than gasoline, so with that said I am looking for a compression ratio around 11:1 or 12:1, is this right?
Yes. I happen to know an expert on propane engines. I could ask him
@@PetesGarage Thank you Pete I would appreciate as much information as possible. Thanks again
I am trying to put a power breke booster on a 1965 mustang csn I raise the Power booster up to clear the clutch rod
Sure
Thanks Pete!!
Thanks Steven
You don't show the plastic washers or center plastic spacer.
It's almost impossible to film that
@@PetesGarage like to atleast see the center plastic spacer and washers. lay them out on a table along with the switch. in the order that they go on.
Pete you can’t believe I’m in the San Francisco Bay Area and can’t find a place to do a valve job on my MOPAR heads. Unbelievable.
I believe it, that's why I'm putting this list together
D & L Performance Machine
1502 Norman St, Wichita Falls, TX 76302
(940) 766-1357
Full Service shop, the owners name is Dave. I personally have had good experiences with my block machining/cylinder head requirements. He does a great deal of work for dirt track racers in the area.
Thank you Craig
Shouldve shown exactly how the bushings went on.
Thanks
My machine shop turned me away because he has more work than he can handle
That's great
@@PetesGarage I will however add to your list because he does excellent work - and has torque plates for Pontiacs!