Ford brake light switch operation and problems
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This video shows the brake light switch from a 1967 Mustang, but it should apply to most Fords from the 1960's well into the 1980's. If your brake lights don't work, or are ON all the time, you'll want to see this.
I’m fighting a 1992 F150 brake light switch. It comes on, but only after you press the brake pedal more than you should have to. This video helped me a lot. Thank you.
Thank you for the tip. I have a '94 Ranger, and the brake light doesn't come on till the pedal is pressed fully. Your explanation sounds right on. Thank you, again, and God bless.
I left the bushings out and have no problem. I didn't think that was one of Ford's better ideas.
Working on a 79 Ford, thank you for explaining how this works
Thanks for the time you toke to make this video. After putting power brakes on my 66 mustang brake lights would not work had no idea what to do, after watch i know what i needed to do. Brake light now work. Thanks again
I had a problem with the brake lights staying on with my 1996 Ford Ranger. It had the same switch. I found that the vacuum booster wouldn't push back against the pivot on the pedal to turn off the brake lights. If I pulled back on the brake pedal, the lights would go out. I had to try 2 different boosters until I found one that would work properly. I didn't change the switch or the bushings. New parts are junk.
Excellent job explaining how these actually work. Now I can get mine sorted out. Much appreciated.
I have the same switch on my 1997 OBS F250HD, so yes it was used at least up until the last model year the 460 was manufactured for. Thanks for the video, replaced my booster and was loosing my mind trying to figure out what was causing my brake lights to stay on even when the keys were out of the ignition, turns out the casting on the new brake booster on the back side of the booster push-rod was to large and was actuating the brake light switch constantly unless in a very very specific position.... Thanks again!
Having trouble with my 59 edsel, this helps immensely. Thank you!!
Thank you from a first time ford guy. I can't believe I had it wrong. Thanks again!
I really liked your video. My story is....I frequently check all lights on our cars. About 8 months ago i noticed my Ford 86 B2 EB 4wd brake lights would come on soon as you touch pedal then go off then come back on as pedal is close to full down. Drivers behind me would see a "flash". I finally changed the switch a couple weeks ago to a $30 MotorCraft. I checked in the rearview and thought that was good, but i noticed my cruise control would disengage only until i let up on the brake. (scary) I read lots and made videos of my brake pedal in action, watched the lights and learned about the cruise control vacuum switch and thought that was an adjustment issue but it was not. I bought the cheapest Standard Ignition brand $9, worked the same, tried little shims on both switches, no difference. Replaced the power booster, no difference. Finally i thought it was the master cyclinder not offering enough back pressure once the car is started so i called a Ford mechanic that owns his own Classic car repair. He said small chance it's anything else other than the switch as Ford is the hairpin trigger brake light switch. He put in the AutoZone F4819 and said it works as designed. I could not believe it, just a light tap the lights come on CC goes off.
Lots of people having this same problem "having to press pedal all the way to get brake lights on and CC off". It's only the brake light switch that is the problem....seems as lots of brands have made the same error or use the same exact electrical switch, they certainly look exactly alike except spring color and metal color. People are using shims, tearing switch apart and using the Ace Hardware spring and/or leaving out the "wear" part (bushing) (should not do that). It's the switch...i did not believe it either and asked mechanic "how many switches should have i bought and how many different brands would i have to try to find this out? He just knows that using the DuraLast higher dollar one is good! I understand now that the switch should be on at the slightest movement, not waiting for the complete 1/16" travel to bottom out then turn on as my multimeter showed on the 2 new switches i bought. I also found that the Cougar bushing "might" be the one to use as a replacement if need be. Now what other little problem will I be spending 40 hrs on?
Only 40 hours? I'm sure something will crop up. Maybe your rear main engine seal will begin dripping 😉.
Ha...good thing i had that seal and the grease replaced 2 months ago! But like you said "i'm sure something will crop up!" But i really appreciated your video a couple of weeks ago before i wrote this!🙂
Something I just ran into today was the hole on the switch had been from what it looks like sanded or grinder bigger. You can get these at auto zone so it doesn’t hurt looking at a new one and comparing. I got a new one and it worked great btw. Just remember people some of these older cars where not owned by the best people and some times they would cut corners.
Super explanatory video, love it. Fighting no brake lights on my 2007 Monaco LaPalma motorhome. Turns out it's a burnt contact on that same switch. There's a video on opening the switch and sanding the contact which I did. Problem is getting the switch off was super hard and putting it back on it broke along with the bushing. I can't find anything other than the switch alone, no bushing. Awaiting two new switches and found a nylon bushing at the hardware store the proper length and ID but have to turn the .550 OD and create flange.
I think I got my extra bushing from a Mustang catalog / website. 1967 in my case.
Thank you for posting this it’s the exact issue I was having with my 65 mustang after installing a new pushrod and bushing, turns out the bushing is way off
Hey Larry, GREAT video and explanation presented in great detail. l just replaced brake master/booster on a 91 auto Foxbody running a 93 Cobra setup. After the install the car would not come out of park and no brake lights. l was going out of my mind trying to figure out the issue. l had it narrowed down to the switch needed more thickness to activate. l never even considered the thickness of the bushing being the issue and l'm a 35 year Chevrolet tech! l removed the bushing and all works as should. Now whats odd is that it all worked fine before the R&R of said components. Now l mic'd my newer style black bushing and it only deviates a few thousandths no matter where l mic it , from 0.70 to 0.64. l guess l could try and sand it down some but l think l may just leave bushingless and see what happens. All l can see is that there is more slop than usual but when plugged in the wire going to switch pretty much holds it in place anyway. Again, thanks for the great vid
My 75 Gran Torino .I had to mash the brake pedal for brake lights.I removed bushing now works great.
Particularly important with electric trailer brakes… Thanks for the video👍
I've found the new versions tend to weld their contacts together far sooner than the original Ford ones. The contact coating wears over time and finally they arc together - used to be around every 200,000 km, now it's half of that or worse!
That's interesting. I'm surprised they would do that, considering how heavy that spring is.
My brake light is staying on, if I lift up the pedal a tad, the light goes out. I replaced the Brake booster and master cylinder, which didn't correct this condition. I'm just ordered a new Brake light switch to see if that fixes it. Looking at your demonstration, that heavy duty spring on the Brake Light Switch should push the switch closed when no pressure is applied to the Brake Pedal.
That spring should keep the switch OPEN with no pressure on the pedal.
Back in the 70's, I remember the wires breaking from flexing was a common failure.
Hmmm, the wires on my Mustang haven't shown any cracking of their insulation. For some reason, all of the under dash wiring appears to be in good shape, and just a few wires near the engine have shown any cracks. The insulation is fairly stiff though, so I reckon I've just been lucky.
@@LarryCook1960The wire breaks inside the insulation, and appears ok.
I'm surprised no one mentioned there are power & manual brake switches (at least for '60s & '70s). Difference? Tension of the spring, PB switches have a lighter spring. Thus, a manual SW may not function with light pedal pressure and a PB SW may not return to off position.
I have the same switch on my 1992 mustang LX and run no bushings and my lights work fine.
Nice job dude, best video ive seen yet how yo install the brake light yet
Thank you for your detailed explanation.
Except for male contact configuration being diagonal to each other, this is identical to the brake light switch for my 1996 Lincoln Town Car. Same white and black bushings. Put the cut out circle (hook) side of the switch toward the brake pedal arm and behind the black bushing, hook gap touching master cylinder metal rod. Black plastic bushing diameter is way too large to fit inside hook gap or circle side of metal switch frame.
Great video. Thank you for the detail.
The switch in my 2005 F250 looks the same.
I may not be thinking this through all the way but dont you adjust the rod to take up the slack? nice vid though, good job.
Assuming you have an adjustable rod, I believe it mostly just sets the height, or position, of your brake pedal at rest. The brake light switch really doesn't care how the pedal is adjusted. An adjustable rod can also ensure the rod can't slip out of the master cylinder, since apparently some cars don't have the rod snap into the MC.
All the way to 2006 Crown Victoria's
Gnarly. Thanks Mickey
Similar to my '91 Lincoln Mark 7 ,,, !
Cool car.
Ford falcon up to 2002 uses a switch like that too they fail often...
Ahhh, a car from Australia. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for the Tech Tip.
Thanks Larry!
Thank so much it was so helpful this video ❤
Great video !! Thanks!!!
Brake lights not working on my 2000 mustang I already replaced fuse and brake switch and still not working . Directional lights works😢
Take a short piece of wire and bypass the switch. Unplug the connector from the switch and stick each end of the wire into the connector. If the lights come on, you'll know it has something to do with the switch.
bingo dingo!!
i switched the brake booster in my e250 and that damn thing.. no brakes and lights and wouldn’t get in gear.. im just taking that fukin bushing out and i hope it works
update- you’re a damn saint and you’ll never buy another beer if you’re around me, my friend!! this was driving me ape ahit for about a day and a half- i have a work van that had been sitting for about 2 months because bad brakes/ so figured out it was the booster.. switched em out no problem.. but then, got in and the brakes were stil squishy and i was like wtf.. so i turners it off and sitting there thinking.. and put my foot on the brakes and ther were tight.. i again said wtf??! turned it on and squishy brakes again.. killin me, right? so i decide to try and balled the brakes.. maybe somehow the got air.. ??.. and im back there and bro man hit the brake no lights.. so this shit is driving me crazy- i get on and start it, try and move the van.. wont get out of park.. so i chrck tran fluid.. then i’m thinkin and thinkin it’s got to be something with the brakes not triggering the tranny to release and then i factored the lights in and finally thought of this switch under there.. then i found your video.. i just unhooked it and tossed the bushing all together and reassembled it, cranked her and bingo dingo!! all is right with the world!! thank you so much!! you made my my week cause you have no idea how much i needed that van running right now/
youre a saint and out here doing the Lord’s work!! God bless ya bud!! God fuckin bless ya!!
Thanks for the explanation on how it works. However my brake lights just stay on? Is there a any other way you can test the switch?
If your brake lights are stuck on, just pull the two wire plug off of the switch. If the brake lights are now off, the switch was stuck on. That should mean the switch is bad, but as the video shows, there's a chance it could be some problem with that bushing, or perhaps something rubbing on the switch.
Ok thanks
@@LarryCook1960 The same thing is happening to me with my 99 Mustang, I already changed that part of the switch with a mechanic and just after a year it failed again, my husband only moved it a little (the cable behind the brake) and at the moment it turns off the light!! Seeing what causes the problem without success, any ideas?
Looks like the same one in my 96 ford f 350
very good cheers
Also… I believe that the white one is a clutch pedal bushing which of course requires no slop
The white one was on the car when I bought it in 1977, and the car has an automatic, sooooo who knows.
@@LarryCook1960 Yeah I just now pulled the bushing out all together… It was black with no slop at all and it was having to travel so far that I was sliding my front tires trying to get to the trailer brake. That’s why I hunted down your video… Because it’s been a couple decades since I’ve had any issues with a brake light switch, and to be honest… Until your video… I never really understood what it was pushing against to activate.😂
@@LarryCook1960…Mine was on a 97 F350
Thank you. 🙂I would be a little leery of eliminating the bushing. It took awhile, since the plastic bushing is so slick, but using a blade and sandpaper I managed to remove enough plastic to get the slop required.@@Timberns
I can't see how the switch works. Its attached to the post on the brake pedal, independent of any other connection. When the pedal is compressed the entire switch moves. How do the spring and switch activate?
I really can't explain it in print any better than the video. The slop between that post, and the hole in the master cylinder pushrod, is what allows the spring inside the switch to compress, which makes the contacts touch.
@@LarryCook1960 What a strange mechanical method. Thanks. Your video is very well done.
my 67 pony ,having problems with break light some times stays on after getting out of car.its not a regular , periodically .Sometimes car has just been sitting in garage , I go out at night and I see the reflection of the break lights being on, haven't drove car that day at all .one Machanic told me I need to put a new break power booster conversion kit in ..this just recently started .Im thinking it my break light switcher my ignition switch ,recently put those in . some one please HELP
Wiggle your brake pedal when parked, without pushing it, and if your brake lights come on there may be too much play in the switch. Maybe the plastic bushing is worn out or missing. There could possibly be a problem with bare wires touching each other somewhere in the brake circuit, but I would look at that switch. I don't know how a brake booster would cause your problem.
For older applications there are power & manual switches. PB switch used with manual brakes may cause lights to stay on or even activate when car is setting still.
So I got a 2003 explorer, and my put a new switch in but it doesn't stay up right. It falls down about a inch and that prevents my light from working when I press the break. Any clue on how/what I can put so it stays up??
The switch can certainly flop around a little bit, since it pivots and should have some slop as shown in the video. On my car, the wires that plug into the switch keep it in place. When you say it falls down about an inch, do you mean the switch rotates?
Yess it's rotates down a bit.
@@stephennatal3180 I don't know anything about your vehicle, but maybe you just need a new switch. Remember, the switch needs some wobble (slop) or it won't work.
Where can I find a bushing from
It seems to depend upon your vehicle. For old Mustangs, you can pretty much order an entire car from a catalog. Here's one for newer cars. www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-brake-light-switch-incl-1-push-road-bushing-1-rush-rod-spacer-1-retainer-clip/207964
@@LarryCook1960 I need a bushing and a washer for my 1999 ford crown victoria
Mine just stays on. I'll try to remove a bushing and see.
If your lights are always on, I would suspect the switch has fallen apart, or something is rubbing on it under the dash. Get under there and give it a look. Everything comes apart easily if need be.
Mines constant power drained my battery. Also caused gear shift to be stuck on Park.
Geez, that sucks 😕I assume the car wants the brakes to be applied before shifting out of park.
No shit
How about a brass bushing made to your specs?
Using a tiny dremel drum sander, I ground off the thick area of the clear colored bushing until it was about .020" thick all around. It took quite a while. That nylon, or whatever it is, was pretty tough.
@@LarryCook1960 Why does it have to have slop in two places? The bushing area and the area by the spring.
@@roncook4781 The .055 gap of the switch near the spring is the total distance the switch can move in order to turn on. It actually seems to turn on just shy of its total movement. The gap between the pushrod and the post on the pedal is required to cause the switch to operate.
@@LarryCook1960 I bet I had the same switch on the two Pintos I had decades ago. I probably still have one.
i believe I'm having this issue right now with my 96 mustang auto
Yours has this type of switch?
@@LarryCook1960 terminals are slightly different but the body of the switch is 100% the same
Still messing with this switch new bushing didn't do the trick. It's like the rod isn't long enough to trigger the switch
@@kmcambs My new bushing didn't work either. I had to reduce the thickness of the bushing wall, using a small Dremel sanding drum for the inside surface. It took about 30 minutes since that plastic is peculiar and doesn't want to sand off. I ended up with a wall thickness of ~22 thousandths of an inch all around, and it works fine.
@@LarryCook1960 Fixed just played with some more. Thank you for posting your video much appreciated
i know what fubar old military term lol
Ford and their stupid “better ideas”. 🖕🏻 Ford. I was once a Ford guy.
What kind of guy are you now?