Without the door skin off, after metal work is done, I use a concrete and metal cleaner inside using a small pump. I make a homemade play dough to plug weep holes and catch the chemical as it runs out one end. It turns rust into iron phosphate! Then spray and wipe to clean while allowing several days to dry. Rust turns black and stops future problems as it seeps into the seams and pinch welds. With a detail gun and plastic sleeve, I spay epoxy inside the door and other panels. Once painted, I complete the inside with a pro-gun setup using a cavity wax from quarts of product. This one is mine and should last 50 years after I am gone. DK, Omaha, NE. USA ASE Master since 78.
Yep more like this please. Clear and to the point. I have heard once before about the mix and sit , but told not to bother. Thanks for clearing that up. It makes perfect sense to do so.
I'm happy you mentioned mixing the epotec 15 mins or so in advance to begin the chemical reaction. Glad im not the only one, but I wonder why the TDS doesn't call for it? Great vid, keep them coming.
looks nice i do use isopropyl alcohol for a final wipe down using white or light colored rags until the rags stay clean no more grime coming off as advised from watching other posts
That will work too, but I do not find it necessary at this stage. To each their own, this is at the end of the day just want I do and find works for me. I find introducing any wash/solvents will increases the chances of little fluff balls being caught up in the keyed up surface when being applied/removed with rags/cloths.
Hiya Shane not sure where you are but in the UK Halfords do a weld through primer that I've seen on a channel called Dave's Garage he's restoring a MK1 escort and he tested various weld through primers this cane out on top as the best he had a piece of scrap metal that's been sitting outside for over a year and has no rust under the coating at all unlike other products he tested hope it helps?
Sweet,back on the You Tube horse mate. With some handy tips for hackers,such as myself. How long could you leave 2k in the gun for with catastrophic situations. Cheers
Thanks for the effort you put in for these videos! Interesting that you rub the phosphoric coating off before epoxy, Howard from Astill Design has a video with PPG & they say to leave it on under the epoxy. Obviously your method will be fine because you’re spraying it straight away but interesting all the same. 👍
Thanks for watching. I use a different epoxy to Howard although both are (now) PPG branded. Personally I’ve had catastrophic delamination issues in the past following the same process show albeit less the sanding of the phosphate coating before epoxying (as had many other when I questioned what I’d done wrong!) So now I just do a panel at a time and get it in epoxy ASAP after abrading the surface.
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Without the door skin off, after metal work is done, I use a concrete and metal cleaner inside using a small pump. I make a homemade play dough to plug weep holes and catch the chemical as it runs out one end. It turns rust into iron phosphate! Then spray and wipe to clean while allowing several days to dry. Rust turns black and stops future problems as it seeps into the seams and pinch welds. With a detail gun and plastic sleeve, I spay epoxy inside the door and other panels. Once painted, I complete the inside with a pro-gun setup using a cavity wax from quarts of product. This one is mine and should last 50 years after I am gone. DK, Omaha, NE. USA
ASE Master since 78.
Yep more like this please. Clear and to the point. I have heard once before about the mix and sit , but told not to bother. Thanks for clearing that up. It makes perfect sense to do so.
I'm happy you mentioned mixing the epotec 15 mins or so in advance to begin the chemical reaction. Glad im not the only one, but I wonder why the TDS doesn't call for it? Great vid, keep them coming.
Not sure why the TDS doesn’t mention it, but I suppose it probably doesn’t warrant it in their testing facilities.
Thanks for watching
looks nice i do use isopropyl alcohol for a final wipe down using white or light colored rags until the rags stay clean no more grime coming off as advised from watching other posts
That will work too, but I do not find it necessary at this stage. To each their own, this is at the end of the day just want I do and find works for me.
I find introducing any wash/solvents will increases the chances of little fluff balls being caught up in the keyed up surface when being applied/removed with rags/cloths.
Awesome info mate! Cheers!
Thanks for watching
I painted my first car 35 years ago, this epoxy has certainly changed the game
A stretch bungee cord and add a hook to the panel holder base so you have proper mil thickness. Just my 2cents.
I enjoyed that mate, thanks for taking the time to explain.
Thanks for watching.
Keep up the great work. My jealousy thanks you.
Great video, do you have any product recommendations for weld through primer (or any to stay away from)?
I prefer to use Upol #2 on MIG plug welds. But it is important to only use it on the overlapped seams, it is NOT a primer and cannot be painted over.
Hiya Shane not sure where you are but in the UK Halfords do a weld through primer that I've seen on a channel called Dave's Garage he's restoring a MK1 escort and he tested various weld through primers this cane out on top as the best he had a piece of scrap metal that's been sitting outside for over a year and has no rust under the coating at all unlike other products he tested hope it helps?
@@deanmarskell1518halfords recalled this product because it was exploding when shaken.
Great to see you back Kyle great content mate..👍👌
Thank you mate
Sweet,back on the You Tube horse mate. With some handy tips for hackers,such as myself.
How long could you leave 2k in the gun for with catastrophic situations.
Cheers
Really depends on what paint you’re spraying, you’ll have to check the ‘pot life’ in the technical data sheet.
Thanks for the effort you put in for these videos!
Interesting that you rub the phosphoric coating off before epoxy, Howard from Astill Design has a video with PPG & they say to leave it on under the epoxy.
Obviously your method will be fine because you’re spraying it straight away but interesting all the same. 👍
Thanks for watching.
I use a different epoxy to Howard although both are (now) PPG branded.
Personally I’ve had catastrophic delamination issues in the past following the same process show albeit less the sanding of the phosphate coating before epoxying (as had many other when I questioned what I’d done wrong!)
So now I just do a panel at a time and get it in epoxy ASAP after abrading the surface.
Excellent tutorial.
Thanks for watching
Thanks a Mint for another great tutorial !!! ... and Greetings from the Upper Ohio River Valley !!!
Thanks for watching. Cool to think someone over 16,000km (just under 10,000 miles) away is watching! Lol
@@TheRestoShed wow !!! ... did Not ever realize that distance actually ...
Awesome channel mate. Keep it up 👍👍👍
Thank you