Finally! I am home to be able to watch this with headphones. I have been (Un-Patiently) 😄, waiting for you to get her on the road. HELL YEA! Sweet lil ripper.
vary nice build. i also have a turbo single cam d21. mine has a vary long build list, its making 360whp and 360 trq at 15psi on a 57. trim t3/t4 turbo.
Thanks man 🙏🏼 I definitely wanna grab that! It’d be nice to throw it back in when I do the new carpet. Just ordered my other seat bracket so i wanna bring it down and get these last 200 miles of break in out of the way
sweet man bring it by the shop I want the boss to put a spoiler on ours just like that I think he will be on board once he sees yours the numbers are really close to what we put down I would like to a side by side comparison video of the 2 builds they are so similar but so different with similar results should make for great content
Thank you! The 04 should have the DOHC KA if I’m not mistaken. However, you can still get a super similar set up for that engine from them as well. It’ll be the whole upper plenum
I enjoyed it & will be looking back on this video when i start to build mine. I got a question, I've been thinking I'd use the 240sx parts too including the cylinder head but you didn't use it or mention it. Is there a reason why you opted not to use it? Thanks
I used the D21 head because it was just what I had at the time. I’m not sure of any astronomical differences between the heads but I do plan on upgrading the internals of the head at a later time. If anything i could imagine the 240 head flows a little better, but I can’t confirm or deny that
I wanted to see how far I can push the stock block configuration before something gave. Also would’ve been another 2Grand+/- to get them. I had read all kinds of forums/posts of people saying stock rods/pistons/headgasket couldn’t handle above 15 or so and wanted to test that among other theories. So I took the 300k mile internals & block, rebuilt it all with new bearings,seals, & oem head gasket and bolts. Then spent a lot where it was super critical, on the engine management, fuel system upgrades, etc. Doing this allowed me to •enjoy the truck and setup sooner than I would’ve if I had to wait to buy rods+pistons •test the truck completely and thoroughly. took the truck to 3 drift events and drove it daily. Was never easy on it past break in either. Truck surpassed my expectations; specifically at a drift event in July, I ran the truck on track for over 30 minutes straight with no hiccups, overheating, or issues at all. Sorry this is a long winded post but it’s a good question I think I answer in some other videos
Great build! Appreciate this breakdown so much. What fan are you using on your fan clutch? I want to swap in the P2M pulleys on my ka and I want to go ahead and replace my cracked fan blades at the same time
thank you!! love to hear it! Im actually still using the factory d21 fan. I just scuffed it up and painted it black. They’re cheap and work real well OEM so I stuck with that one
Would take a bit of fab work to go on the 3.0 but it’s doable. Might be able to use TT 300zx parts but not 100% sure. My frames in okay shape, just need to notch the back and stiffen up the chassis
I’d fix that that rust in the bed. It’s already bad enough that it’s ate the metal away. You could stop the damage by sanding and breaking off the rusty areas and cleaning it. At least put a spray paint coat on it. Or it’s going to get worse.
Well aware man but the bed isn’t too big of a concern at this point. In fact, it being rusty makes me feel better about cutting it out for a fuel cell later down the road. If I do a 4 link kit I won’t be able to keep stock tank location anyways unless I do reverse link
Yooo, Nice! Appreciate the update! I'm currently collecting parts for my 4WD D21 to turbo as well. I have previous experience with MS, so that will also be my tuning solution. What octane is yours tuned on? It's assuring to know your tuner said 15psi is fine for beating on it all day. I only want a conservative bump up to 200-215hp for off-roading, pushing bigger tires, and occasional towing - but it has to be 91 octane unfortunately. I have a few questions if you don't mind! I plan to keep the stock throttle-body and also use speed-density. Does the stock MAF have to be plugged in any sort of way to prevent boost leaks? I don't want to damage it, since I'll need it for every two years when returning it to stock for emissions testing (CA lol). You removed your overflow tank in order to do your charge-pipe; was there any additional cutting of the core support involved? Or on the other side? How about the intercooler? I know the condenser is gone, but did anything else need to be cut too? I actually also planned to use that same previous eBay turbo you had from MaxSR - the one I was looking at has similar trim to an SR20; wondering if you had any trouble with it, or did you swap it out just for peace of mind/quality? Thank you!! On my other turbo car (E30) - I had the catch-can setup like yours, but then had the exit line plumbed to a hose going directly to the floor; ziptied on the frame rail to point towards the rear of the car. The fumes of the open catch-can finally bothered me enough to do it. Especially on boost where the blow-by is the worst. It would come through my HVAC vents. I tried to first plumb it back to the turbo inlet elbow, but this was MINORLY pressurizing my crankcase somehow. Guess the venturi wasn't strong or setup well enough.
hey man! I’m currently tuned on 91(I use 93 mainly). So for the MAF, I have it deleted completely. I believe you can keep it if desired but I removed mine completely. No issues with boost leaks or anything without, just rearranged my IC tubes to accommodate. I trimmed a small bit off the inside lip of the rad core to fit the overflow I installed but the intercooler fit well. I flipped the rad support bracket around and trimmed the bracket itself, and that allowed me to get the support back in. I used a holesaw to cut the holes for the elbows to get in for the intercooler. As for the turbo, honestly it was due to 2 things. First was quality and peace of mind as you mentioned. Felt a lot better not running such a cheap turbo(granted the ISR isn’t really expensive but nevertheless). But also because MaxSR was a pain in the ass to get replacement seals and stuff with since The turbo was a gift. They basically told me since I bought it over a year ago and I didn’t purchase it myself from them, they refused to sell me a simple oring for the compressor housing. & honestly after going back and forth with the for about 30 minutes, it left a real sour taste in my mouth. Just decided they can pound salt and I hit up Enjuku who was much easier to work with and I know they & ISR won’t give me hell about replacement oring or whatever else I could need. Also just saying if you decide to buy something with them I can get ya a free shirt from Enjuku when you order!
@@StreetTerrorGarage I appreciate the response! I know it was lengthy lol. As for the MAF delete - did you wire in the IAT sensor to the existing MAF wiring, or did you use another solution? I had to do that with my E30 turbo - wires the existing AFM wiring to the new IAT for MS. Ty for the intercooler info. I think I’ll go ISR sr20 turbo then, hopefully it doesn’t create too much heat from small size since my goals are low.
No problem man! Will answer any questions I can. My D21 came factory with the an IAT sensor, so I was able to just wire the GM IAT sensor into those two wires. didn’t matter the wire configuration either as the sensor isn’t polarized(I believe is the word for it). If you don’t have the IAT sensor in your factory harness you can always run the wires to the secondary connector on the ecu or there’s also the method you said(which I believe requires moving a jumper in my particular MS)
@@StreetTerrorGarage Ahh! Brain dead moment; yes I have an IAT sensor - the one that connects to the big plastic disc intake. I have a ‘93. Yes, no factor polarization is correct. Ty!! Can’t wait.
Speedo pegs 100 and still has plenty left so I can’t honestly say. That top speed will go back down once I install its new rear end but accel will go up even more
Is there any way that you can download that tune and sell it to me lol it sounds like it runs better than mine is nice and smooth buy I am running nismotronic
honestly man I don’t think it’d even be compatible if I knew how to do that since I’m running on MegaSquirtPNP. I also got it tuned so everything’s pretty specific to my motor(I have no IACV/AAC/EGR)
Yeah mine is also egr deleted and a 3 bar gm map sensor and gm air intake sensor 550cc injectors. I just figured I would ask because I I'm not a tuner and no one around here has a dyno and I'm having trouble trying to do it myself, thanks
This is an absolutely awesome build, definitely stealing the wheel setup lol
Dude this gives me so much inspiration for my clapped green 96 single cab. It looks amazing dude. Definitely gave me ideas
Finally! I am home to be able to watch this with headphones. I have been (Un-Patiently) 😄, waiting for you to get her on the road.
HELL YEA! Sweet lil ripper.
thank you! & sorry for the wait 😂 was very much worth it though!!
Cool build so far. I'm looking to go a similar direction with my 97 4x4.
Thanks for laying out all the stuff you've done.
Absolutely! & Thank you!
bro i just picked up a hardbody and this video is amazing for info on how i could piece together a turbo build
Awesome man, love to hear it!!
buying my first hardbody tmrw this video really gave me the extra push to pull the trigger
love to hear it man, I think you’ll fall in love with it
Really clean
Their he is! Santiago........... Another shredding Hardbody. 😎😎
With the kind of set up that he has the minimum I will go it's 300 horsepower
vary nice build. i also have a turbo single cam d21. mine has a vary long build list, its making 360whp and 360 trq at 15psi on a 57. trim t3/t4 turbo.
Thanks man. & very nice! I’m sure shes got some internal goodies?
And she is a BEAST! Videos coming soon?
@@PDofLA yeah hopefully soon
Oh Hell Yeah, Crank more videos bro, !
Getting my editing stuff finally figured out 💪🏼
Nice video man! Can't wait to see more!
Thank you!!
Thinking about getting me a hardbody, thanks for making videos about your truck bro makes me wanna get one even more!
absolutely! got more content coming out super soon too!! Grab a hardbody while they’re still cheap!
I still got that headliner cardboard for ya. Nice work bro.
Thanks man 🙏🏼 I definitely wanna grab that! It’d be nice to throw it back in when I do the new carpet. Just ordered my other seat bracket so i wanna bring it down and get these last 200 miles of break in out of the way
Dude that shit is so sick!! I wanna do it to my hardbody
Thanks man!! It’s worth every penny!
Sick build bro 🤘
Appreciate it bro 🤙🏼
Love your build ... im still talking about mine while stockpiling parts.
Thank you! Thats where it all starts!
G35!!! Sick, I’m bout to buy one of these hardbody’s, I got a Z33, I wanna daily the hardbody then eventually put a VQ35DE in it!
I was thinking of doing the same until I gave in to the turbo urges 😂 it would be rowdy in the d21 for sure. But I got you on the G35!!
@@StreetTerrorGarage VQ squad 🐊
Very cool build.
Thank you very much 🙏🏼🙏🏼
It's an amazing truck! Where did you get the tool box?
sweet man bring it by the shop I want the boss to put a spoiler on ours just like that I think he will be on board once he sees yours the numbers are really close to what we put down I would like to a side by side comparison video of the 2 builds they are so similar but so different with similar results should make for great content
that’s a pretty good idea man, I like it. I’ll bring it by your shop when I can next week and stop by!
@@StreetTerrorGarage awesome look forward to meeting and seeing the truck in person
pretty sick truck man!
thank you!!
Great build I have a 2004 nissan frontier with the ka24e and would like to do the same manifold as yours
Thank you! The 04 should have the DOHC KA if I’m not mistaken. However, you can still get a super similar set up for that engine from them as well. It’ll be the whole upper plenum
@Street Terror Garage thank u what brand is urs
Xccessive manufacturing
Nice build👍
Not sure if you’ll see this but I have a 92’ d21 that I want to give more power but I don’t know where to start. Any help?
I enjoyed it & will be looking back on this video when i start to build mine. I got a question, I've been thinking I'd use the 240sx parts too including the cylinder head but you didn't use it or mention it. Is there a reason why you opted not to use it? Thanks
I used the D21 head because it was just what I had at the time. I’m not sure of any astronomical differences between the heads but I do plan on upgrading the internals of the head at a later time. If anything i could imagine the 240 head flows a little better, but I can’t confirm or deny that
What all parts of the 240sx loom did you use
Sick build!! I wanna do the intake mod and fuel rail and injectors, megasquirt tuner? Would your guy be able to etune?
That would be a good base for boost! I’d add a 255LPH fuel pump as well. But yes, my tuner can remote tune!
we’re can i get the manifold
Just wondering why would you not do forged pistons and rods especially if you were planning on turboing it?
I wanted to see how far I can push the stock block configuration before something gave. Also would’ve been another 2Grand+/- to get them.
I had read all kinds of forums/posts of people saying stock rods/pistons/headgasket couldn’t handle above 15 or so and wanted to test that among other theories. So I took the 300k mile internals & block, rebuilt it all with new bearings,seals, & oem head gasket and bolts. Then spent a lot where it was super critical, on the engine management, fuel system upgrades, etc.
Doing this allowed me to
•enjoy the truck and setup sooner than I would’ve if I had to wait to buy rods+pistons
•test the truck completely and thoroughly. took the truck to 3 drift events and drove it daily. Was never easy on it past break in either. Truck surpassed my expectations; specifically at a drift event in July, I ran the truck on track for over 30 minutes straight with no hiccups, overheating, or issues at all.
Sorry this is a long winded post but it’s a good question I think I answer in some other videos
Nice were you from
Thank you man, I’m from the Hampton Roads area in Virginia!
Great build! Appreciate this breakdown so much.
What fan are you using on your fan clutch? I want to swap in the P2M pulleys on my ka and I want to go ahead and replace my cracked fan blades at the same time
thank you!! love to hear it! Im actually still using the factory d21 fan. I just scuffed it up and painted it black. They’re cheap and work real well OEM so I stuck with that one
😊😊😊 0:00 😊😊😊😊😊
p
Nice truck, what exhaust are you running?
Thank you! I was running a short bs 2.5” steel exhaust I made but now have a complete custom 2.5”SS turbo back exhaust
I love it I want mine just like it will you help with questions
Absolutely will help as much as I possibly can
From va can they put turbo on .3.0 how’s ypur frame needs frame work rust
Would take a bit of fab work to go on the 3.0 but it’s doable. Might be able to use TT 300zx parts but not 100% sure. My frames in okay shape, just need to notch the back and stiffen up the chassis
I’d fix that that rust in the bed. It’s already bad enough that it’s ate the metal away. You could stop the damage by sanding and breaking off the rusty areas and cleaning it. At least put a spray paint coat on it. Or it’s going to get worse.
Well aware man but the bed isn’t too big of a concern at this point. In fact, it being rusty makes me feel better about cutting it out for a fuel cell later down the road. If I do a 4 link kit I won’t be able to keep stock tank location anyways unless I do reverse link
what size and what an offset are those Wheels that's what I'm looking for
They are 17x9 +0 offset
Did you make or buy the hood shock brackets?
The brackets came with the whole kit. Hood Strut kit is from @RhodeFab
Where did you get the fans from?
I’m still using the oem fan clutch & fan. It’s just painted
Straight pipe no cats 2.5inch ?
Yeah this was just shitty steel 2.5” but now I have full SS turbo back
Yoo bro what is you're intercooler size?
Intercooler is a 2.5” intercooler but it’s a slim one not the fulll size big front mount
Yooo, Nice! Appreciate the update! I'm currently collecting parts for my 4WD D21 to turbo as well. I have previous experience with MS, so that will also be my tuning solution.
What octane is yours tuned on? It's assuring to know your tuner said 15psi is fine for beating on it all day. I only want a conservative bump up to 200-215hp for off-roading, pushing bigger tires, and occasional towing - but it has to be 91 octane unfortunately.
I have a few questions if you don't mind!
I plan to keep the stock throttle-body and also use speed-density. Does the stock MAF have to be plugged in any sort of way to prevent boost leaks? I don't want to damage it, since I'll need it for every two years when returning it to stock for emissions testing (CA lol). You removed your overflow tank in order to do your charge-pipe; was there any additional cutting of the core support involved? Or on the other side? How about the intercooler? I know the condenser is gone, but did anything else need to be cut too? I actually also planned to use that same previous eBay turbo you had from MaxSR - the one I was looking at has similar trim to an SR20; wondering if you had any trouble with it, or did you swap it out just for peace of mind/quality? Thank you!!
On my other turbo car (E30) - I had the catch-can setup like yours, but then had the exit line plumbed to a hose going directly to the floor; ziptied on the frame rail to point towards the rear of the car.
The fumes of the open catch-can finally bothered me enough to do it. Especially on boost where the blow-by is the worst. It would come through my HVAC vents. I tried to first plumb it back to the turbo inlet elbow, but this was MINORLY pressurizing my crankcase somehow. Guess the venturi wasn't strong or setup well enough.
hey man! I’m currently tuned on 91(I use 93 mainly). So for the MAF, I have it deleted completely. I believe you can keep it if desired but I removed mine completely. No issues with boost leaks or anything without, just rearranged my IC tubes to accommodate. I trimmed a small bit off the inside lip of the rad core to fit the overflow I installed but the intercooler fit well. I flipped the rad support bracket around and trimmed the bracket itself, and that allowed me to get the support back in. I used a holesaw to cut the holes for the elbows to get in for the intercooler. As for the turbo, honestly it was due to 2 things. First was quality and peace of mind as you mentioned. Felt a lot better not running such a cheap turbo(granted the ISR isn’t really expensive but nevertheless). But also because MaxSR was a pain in the ass to get replacement seals and stuff with since The turbo was a gift. They basically told me since I bought it over a year ago and I didn’t purchase it myself from them, they refused to sell me a simple oring for the compressor housing. & honestly after going back and forth with the for about 30 minutes, it left a real sour taste in my mouth. Just decided they can pound salt and I hit up Enjuku who was much easier to work with and I know they & ISR won’t give me hell about replacement oring or whatever else I could need. Also just saying if you decide to buy something with them I can get ya a free shirt from Enjuku when you order!
@@StreetTerrorGarage I appreciate the response! I know it was lengthy lol. As for the MAF delete - did you wire in the IAT sensor to the existing MAF wiring, or did you use another solution? I had to do that with my E30 turbo - wires the existing AFM wiring to the new IAT for MS. Ty for the intercooler info. I think I’ll go ISR sr20 turbo then, hopefully it doesn’t create too much heat from small size since my goals are low.
No problem man! Will answer any questions I can. My D21 came factory with the an IAT sensor, so I was able to just wire the GM IAT sensor into those two wires. didn’t matter the wire configuration either as the sensor isn’t polarized(I believe is the word for it). If you don’t have the IAT sensor in your factory harness you can always run the wires to the secondary connector on the ecu or there’s also the method you said(which I believe requires moving a jumper in my particular MS)
@@StreetTerrorGarage Ahh! Brain dead moment; yes I have an IAT sensor - the one that connects to the big plastic disc intake. I have a ‘93. Yes, no factor polarization is correct. Ty!! Can’t wait.
3:00 so what are u going to do about the rear end?🤔
Dropping a Dana 44 in it. Direct bolt in swap for the D21 👀
@@StreetTerrorGarage nice! From what vehicle?
rodeo! Video will be done soon on it!
@@StreetTerrorGarage cool! Can't wait!
What cam are you running
Running the stock D21 cam
Where did you get your oil sandwich plate?
www.ebay.com/itm/292142596020
Did the intake manifold upgrade help ?
IMO it probably would’ve benefited me more to build the head in addition to the manifold but it pulls hard up top
What kinda top speed you think? Or how quick?
Speedo pegs 100 and still has plenty left so I can’t honestly say. That top speed will go back down once I install its new rear end but accel will go up even more
You forgot to send it
Hey I am going to be in the sparrow road area this morning the help my niece with her car if you want to meet up
budget wise, how much was it in total to build?
I’m honestly probably into it between $4-$6k so far from bone stock start to now.
Anyone know where to find a plug n play led 3rd brake lite?
They make an LED 3rd brake light that’s a direct bolt in I think but the plug is different. The plug is the only reason I haven’t put mine on yet
changed out that crank pulley?
Yes it’s a ASP crank pulley. Listed for S13 KA but works on the trucks as well.
Is there any way that you can download that tune and sell it to me lol it sounds like it runs better than mine is nice and smooth buy I am running nismotronic
honestly man I don’t think it’d even be compatible if I knew how to do that since I’m running on MegaSquirtPNP. I also got it tuned so everything’s pretty specific to my motor(I have no IACV/AAC/EGR)
Yeah mine is also egr deleted and a 3 bar gm map sensor and gm air intake sensor 550cc injectors. I just figured I would ask because I I'm not a tuner and no one around here has a dyno and I'm having trouble trying to do it myself, thanks
Hey how much do you think your are into your build
to be honest, it’s hard to put a number on it at this point but it’s getting up there. I’d say between $3-$5k overall