Prime. Thank you for sharing all the steps with us. I have used the UV resin with thickeners for 5 years, works great and saves time. You can even mix it up thick like bondo and fill larger spots.
I normally use glazing putty thinned with acetone to remove layer lines, but I have been exceptionally curious about using automotive paints. Thank you for sharing your process.
Great job! To clean my sandpaper off I took one of those wire brushes, cut the head off and hot glued it to a small block of wood, so it can sit on my desk with the bristles pointing up. This makes it real easy to wipe the sandpaper with just one hand, in case you are holding the part with the other. If you're priming small items and the spray can applies too much I find Mr. Surfacer from Mr. Hobby thinned with their self leveling thinner works fantastic in an airbrush. It's high build and sands nicely. You will need serious ventilation though and a good respirator.
Great work! In this video, you use the standard resin for print right? The uv resin. Is it possible if change the resin type with the basic resin like bondo liquid resin? Thank you 😊
Prime! I've had issues with resin adhering to the print... It holds well enough for a display piece, I guess, but if it gets any sort of stress, it just peels up in sheets. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I think the biggest differentiator between amateur and professional 3d printer people is knowing when (and how) to separate something for printing. As you noted, detail pieces should be printed in resin (or a smaller nozzle), but also some pieces need to be oriented differently to reduce your sanding time and increase the final output quality. I recently printed a Blade Runner snub-nosed blaster and decided to split the slide into 3 parts to preserve text, and that worked, but the way I did it made it a real pain to reassemble properly (aggravated by some warping in on the parting lines). If I had the skills to split it more intelligently - or even to only take out the small sections of detail - it would have saved me hours of work later.
I haven't had any issues with the resin separating, it usually stick really well to the prints. I could see if the layer of resin is thick and ridged and print is able to flex it could break free. Could be the kind or resin also. For example I wouldn't try this over PETG as no much sticks to that.
@@DaveRigDesign resing very frequently fails to adhere well to many raw printing materials. It does not bond in any way. It often lays on top and is ruined by sanding. It is a very poor bond compared to a solid metal/plastic primer/filler made foe this use.
Never had an issue with PLA. The layer lines give it a mechanical bond along with the adhesive one. Even more so if you sand the print 1st. You do have to be sure the surface is clean and free of any dust or oils.
Your welcome :) I just used CA glue (crazy glue). It’s great for models that just sit on a shelf or small details, but for bigger items or things that would see stressed from moving around like on cosplay armor I would use something like 2 part epoxy.
@@DaveRigDesign I'd like to see a strength test comparison between straight CA glue, CA glue with activator applied after the parts are joined, and CA glue where you spray CA activator on both surfaces first, which you let dry for 30 seconds, and then add CA to one side and hold the parts together for x seconds. Also the same 3 test with and without sanding the surfaces first.
I don't think activator effect the strength of the bond, it just causes the glue to cure faster. Issue with spraying and applying the glue so it dried and applying again is it will build up a layer of glue causing the parts not to sit flat. CA glue works best as a thin layer, not so great if its thick on its own. You can add baking soda ( I think) after you apply it to it which thickens it and makes it cure, this adds more strength then just the glue. I've seen this done to build up gussets between pieces glued at angle to each other.
I find mostly I’m using CA glue from starbond. Right now I’m using a medium thickness and I find it’s good if you need it to flow into cracks but otherwise too thin. My last bottle was the thick version and I found it stayed where you put it better. I can’t seem to find gloop locally otherwise for bigger jobs I’d use that to melt the prints together.
Prime … Why not printing the helmet with a way smaller layer height to have less to fill and prime to start with? Variable layer height can do wonders at those curves.
No matter how small the layers you still need to fill so might as well save the time printing. If your printing something small it makes sense which is why I printed the face at .2, but if I did the same for the head it would have taken 3x longer to print and still need the rest of the process.
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
Prime. Thank you for sharing all the steps with us. I have used the UV resin with thickeners for 5 years, works great and saves time. You can even mix it up thick like bondo and fill larger spots.
I’ve thought of making it really thick to replace the spot putty but haven’t tried yet.
Nice work!
Also does a great job at demonstrating the value of printing your own sanding blocks
I normally use glazing putty thinned with acetone to remove layer lines, but I have been exceptionally curious about using automotive paints. Thank you for sharing your process.
No problem. I tend to use resin for most of the heavy lifting because of the instant curing time but putty works just as well.
Great job! To clean my sandpaper off I took one of those wire brushes, cut the head off and hot glued it to a small block of wood, so it can sit on my desk with the bristles pointing up. This makes it real easy to wipe the sandpaper with just one hand, in case you are holding the part with the other. If you're priming small items and the spray can applies too much I find Mr. Surfacer from Mr. Hobby thinned with their self leveling thinner works fantastic in an airbrush. It's high build and sands nicely. You will need serious ventilation though and a good respirator.
Nice, that’s a cool idea.
Prime .....learning loads from this video alone....thank you
Your welcome 😁
This just makes me want to do this to Megas XLR model. Complete with the 8 ball and flames...
that would be pretty cool. I thought about printing the full Optimus model but don't know where I would put it when done :)
Great job! Pretty cool!
Thanks 🙏
Great job.
Thanks 🙏
Great work!
In this video, you use the standard resin for print right? The uv resin.
Is it possible if change the resin type with the basic resin like bondo liquid resin?
Thank you 😊
Thanks 🙏
Yup, that would work also. You just have to wait for it to cure :)
looks awesome, great tutorial, nothing worse than having to sand a whole helmet with little details. i have like 6 helmets in this stage currently 😇
6 helmets! That’s alot of sanding :)
Prime! I've had issues with resin adhering to the print... It holds well enough for a display piece, I guess, but if it gets any sort of stress, it just peels up in sheets. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
I think the biggest differentiator between amateur and professional 3d printer people is knowing when (and how) to separate something for printing. As you noted, detail pieces should be printed in resin (or a smaller nozzle), but also some pieces need to be oriented differently to reduce your sanding time and increase the final output quality.
I recently printed a Blade Runner snub-nosed blaster and decided to split the slide into 3 parts to preserve text, and that worked, but the way I did it made it a real pain to reassemble properly (aggravated by some warping in on the parting lines). If I had the skills to split it more intelligently - or even to only take out the small sections of detail - it would have saved me hours of work later.
I haven't had any issues with the resin separating, it usually stick really well to the prints. I could see if the layer of resin is thick and ridged and print is able to flex it could break free. Could be the kind or resin also. For example I wouldn't try this over PETG as no much sticks to that.
@@DaveRigDesign resing very frequently fails to adhere well to many raw printing materials. It does not bond in any way. It often lays on top and is ruined by sanding. It is a very poor bond compared to a solid metal/plastic primer/filler made foe this use.
Never had an issue with PLA. The layer lines give it a mechanical bond along with the adhesive one. Even more so if you sand the print 1st.
You do have to be sure the surface is clean and free of any dust or oils.
I seem to have given lots of people ideas lately...lol great paint job!
not sure what you mean but thanks :)
Prime
Turned out nice
Thank 🙏
You giving me great ideas thanks for sharing
Glad I could inspire :)
Thank you so so much!! This helps so so much. One question. What type of glue did you use to attach everything at the end?
Thanks again!!!!
Your welcome :)
I just used CA glue (crazy glue).
It’s great for models that just sit on a shelf or small details, but for bigger items or things that would see stressed from moving around like on cosplay armor I would use something like 2 part epoxy.
@@DaveRigDesign I'd like to see a strength test comparison between straight CA glue, CA glue with activator applied after the parts are joined, and CA glue where you spray CA activator on both surfaces first, which you let dry for 30 seconds, and then add CA to one side and hold the parts together for x seconds. Also the same 3 test with and without sanding the surfaces first.
I don't think activator effect the strength of the bond, it just causes the glue to cure faster. Issue with spraying and applying the glue so it dried and applying again is it will build up a layer of glue causing the parts not to sit flat.
CA glue works best as a thin layer, not so great if its thick on its own. You can add baking soda ( I think) after you apply it to it which thickens it and makes it cure, this adds more strength then just the glue. I've seen this done to build up gussets between pieces glued at angle to each other.
Prime - What glue do you like to use?
I find mostly I’m using CA glue from starbond.
Right now I’m using a medium thickness and I find it’s good if you need it to flow into cracks but otherwise too thin. My last bottle was the thick version and I found it stayed where you put it better.
I can’t seem to find gloop locally otherwise for bigger jobs I’d use that to melt the prints together.
That’s just Prime.
Old school version :)
Prime … Why not printing the helmet with a way smaller layer height to have less to fill and prime to start with? Variable layer height can do wonders at those curves.
No matter how small the layers you still need to fill so might as well save the time printing.
If your printing something small it makes sense which is why I printed the face at .2, but if I did the same for the head it would have taken 3x longer to print and still need the rest of the process.