How To Cope Crown Moulding: A Demonstration
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- Опубликовано: 5 мар 2013
- How to hand cut a coped joint in crown moulding. The concept is explained and then a demonstration of the cut is performed. Once you understand WHY you are performing certain steps the process becomes easier.
Installing crown all by yourself? It can be done! Check out my video on this subject here:
• Install Crown Moulding... 
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I have watched so many videos my head and spinning. Once I discovered how uneven my ceiling is ... I realize now that coping is my only hope. This video is EXACTLY what I needed ... slow, step by step and close up camera work. Thank you so much for doing this -- us amateurs (me) are super appreciative.
This is the only video I found that shows how to put the crown molding against the fence and cut the 45ﾟ angle. My first attempt was with the crown molding flat, and of course it didn't work. Darkening the cut line with a pencil and finishing it off with a round file are great tips!
Thanks for the video and tips. Now I shall go and screw this up.
Ha ha me too!
Me three thankfully I'm doing pergo tomorrow
I'm Screwing up as we speakong
I tried my hand at crown molding recently and learned if the angles weren’t exact, filler became my best friend! 😂😂 Trying it again in another room and plan to cope the corners. Great demo. Thank you!
That's why they say "Do your best, caulk the rest" haha
remember the old saying, " a little paint of caulk, a little bit of paint, makes you the carpenter that you ain't." I use more caulk and filler than I like to admit.
I haven't tried this yet but, I hope it's as easy as you make it look! Thank you, this was by far the best demonstration of this technic that I have seen.
Excellent tutorial on how to cope. Thank you for not being all over the place (with your words & thoughts), you stayed on topic & delivered a great how to video.
To sit properly means that when the crown is sitting in your saw the molding sits tight to the table and the fence without gaps. Make some pencil marks on the table and fence and measure them. you will need these when you go to install the crown. Some people like to put tape on their table or fence using these reference marks so you get each piece in exactly the same position( THIS IS IMPORTANT! ).
This is the best and very explained video I have seen on RUclips. I've been looking for a video like this for weeks, now I will install my cronwmoldings without being afraid of ruin them. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I'm glad it was helpful. You might find this newer video useful as well. Good luck!
ruclips.net/video/rk29o3szGOI/видео.html
Well done! Best video on coping -- even better than TOH. I just finished cutting my best inside corners ever. My coping blade was dull, so I used my B&D OSCILLATING MULT-TOOL with the wide, fine tooth blade. It takes a steady hand, but it allows you to easily go back and remove more material if you need to. It helps to clamp down the molding, face up, so you can hold the heavy tool steady with two hands.
That makes a skilled joint doable. Simple explanation and demonstration thanks for posting.
one of the most informative and full demonstrations of how to do this. Thanx!
To the point, no bs, and a bunch of great info. Awesome video! Thank you.
Nice video man. I learned this from a really good tradesman I was on a job with once, but i'm about to install some crown again and i came to make sure I hadn't forgotten anything 😆
Thanks, John
for the insightful video.
I'm researching installing my own & have never before. So your coping tip really made sense.
This video is exactly what I needed to see. Concise explanations and great camera angles. Thank you for providing this to the public! I just got my first coping saw and am ready to practice on some spare pieces of moulding.
That's actually a great idea. You can saw a whole bunch of coping cuts in scrap pieces and get the hang of it fairly quickly. Better to destroy some scrap in learning than screw up a an expensive 16 footer!
Very nice demonstration, John… Probably watched this five times now and I can see that it takes some practice to gain confidence with the coping saw, but you explain the concept well so thank you!
Finally a carpenter that knows what a coping saw is and how to use it.
I just left This Old House showing me how to do this. THEY SUCK. I followed you and it went perfect. THANKS
Thank you. I have to do this for work tomorrow. I've never done it before. Stayed late trying to figure it out but I had no luck. I wasn't cutting the initial miter upside down. I'll be sure to grab a file too. Thanks again.
Thanks for the demo, as for the filing is concern I would try to file in downward stock too prevent any chiping on the surface edge. Now I'm ready to tackle this for the fist time. 😆
Adjustments are made at installation by moving the two pieces up or down a little bit( rolling the pieces up or down in the corner). Before you install the molding on the wall make some pencil marks on the wall and ceiling as guides using your measurements from your saw. Remember crown moldings is made to fit a perfect 90* corner. The marks are guides for a visually pleasing appearance. Nail up the middle of the molding leaving the last 2-3 feet unnailed.
Learned what a coping saw was today. Thank you
Great video, thank you.
I don't normally do trim but this upped my game big time. Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time out of your day to make a great video!
best explanation I've seen yet. Intelligently presented!
Thanks for the helpful tips. Great video thanks
Until your video and tips I was unsuccessful in my attempts at coping. All my failed crowns were requiring copious amounts of coping skills which made things difficult to cope with. But now that coping is in the past and I'm coping with the copes of the future y coping with the copes of tomorrow by coping with those copes today. Cope with that.
Sounds copacetic.
Great video. Huge help with my most recent crown molding project. Thanks.
Just the video I've been looking for. I have vinyl-clad molding that's really hard to miter with a miter box and hand saw, and I've never coped crown molding. Thanks.
I've been using my table saw for cope cuts. Great video.
Excellent demonstration. Thank you! In 10 minutes I’ll be working on this
Great video. Now I'm ready to try some practice pieces.
Well done video! I have the confidence now to try to do this! Thanks for doing such a great job with this!
best video yet on crown
Best video I've seen on youtube pertaining to coping trim! Thanks
Such a great tutorial.
This is great,nice cope work!You make it look easy
Coping with a grinder and a flap disc works good also. I need to learn to cope by hand. Thanks
I would imagine your project is done by now, and you should be making a video of how you solved your problems. A month ago I would have suggested to put the crown molding in your miter saw the way it will be installed; meaning that the saw table is the ceiling and the fence is the wall( remember upside down and backwards .... it makes sense after you do it), even if you have to drill some holes in your fence to allow you to add a taller fence for the crown to sit properly.
Best explanation I've seen 👍
Thank you. Best instructional video out there.
Thanks for making that so simple to explain. Great job.
AWESOME you are the man !!!! i was ready to burn my house down over the dam crown molding. was that a diablo blade i saw ???? and many thanks for the video
Thanks for this! Doing my first crown molding work in our bedroom tomorrow!
Check out this video, too. It has additional tips which could be helpful. Good luck!
ruclips.net/video/rk29o3szGOI/видео.html
Great Demonstration.
Awesome video! Great demo!
A very nice simple educational demonstration
Welcome!
nice job with this video....i usually try to miter all my moldings...i like to cut flat since my fence is so short. I like this technique going to try tomorrow on my mudroom project. THANKS AGAIN
Excellent explanation. Thanks
this was a really great video well explained and the principles were very sound thank you
Thanks for the well explained video.
Thank you! Great demonstration!
You broke it down very well. Thank U sir.
This is a superb how-to video. My simple little redecorating project involved crown molding and it was driving me really crazy. I asked my woodworking teacher about what I was doing wrong and he showed me this coping technique. He explained it well, showed me, I went home and I was still floundering. I have trouble visualizing and understanding the logic, I guess. Anyway, I watched this video to review what my teacher explained. I'll try it again tomorrow. Thank you very much.
U sir are a lifesaver. Thanks
Wow, good thing I watched this video. I watched it wondering why in the heck you were cutting a 45 degree angle before coping. I was going to nail the crown moulding flush against the top of the wall!
Love your work ! Hopefully by now you have discovered the use of an angle grinder to cope ! So much faster and easier ! As always great work ! Lastly I have also seen many homes with crown upside down , however I always ask the customer which way they want the profile , and sometimes they choose the detail upside down lol ! Give them what they want I guess
Yes, I know some like the angle grinder idea, For me, I get accurate and quick results just using a coping saw and a file. I also prefer to use quieter hand tools any chance I get!
Very well and detailed explained, thanks so much 👍
Nice video. I've done some coping with my baseboard projects and they've always turned out well. My wife wants me to install crown moulding now and I was wondering if I could apply the same technique. Glad I found this. Thanks!
+Kurt Fischback Coping crown moulding is the only way a pro installs it and really the only way it should be done. Be sure and check out my recent video on how to install crown moulding alone:
ruclips.net/video/rk29o3szGOI/видео.html
Very helpful and straight forward. Many thanks
Great quality video, this has helped me a great deal. Not to sure about the "upside down" being wrong though. This point for me is subjective, I prefer the "upside down" look, so does my wife. Surely that's what's important. Thanks again.
Well, of course, in your own home you should do what pleases you. However, there is no question about the correct orientation. Modern crown molding profile traces it's linage back to the ancient Greek architectural orders and there are specific rules of shape and design derived from that era. In America, the architect and carpenter Asher Benjamin is probably most responsible for bringing the elements of classical Greek design back to common use with his landmark 1827 book The American Builder's Companion and his 1830 book The Architect, Or Practical House Carpenter. Fine houses built before that period were employing these principles, but the publication of his books helped spread these ancient architectural forms into more widespread use. They offered templates of a sort for carpenters to follow. The books are still available in reprint today, and they still do a good job of showing what is proper and what is possible. They also show quite clearly how the shape of a crown moulding should be oriented to achieve classical balance and traditional style.
When I come crown I use a rotozip tool with an angled sanding bit instead of a file. Just my personal preference. I always enjoy seeing how other people do things to see if I find something that might be faster or easier.
awesome response, thanks so much. I did exactly what you said and the coped cut is not even close to matching up. what else could be causing the cuts to not match up? I've had 5 people look at this and they can't figure it out.
It’s clear we both can roll with it. I need to come work with you and we both learn some new tricks. 2 perfectionist. I do like your work. I’m greedy for more on any edge I can get.
Thanks very helpful video!
Great video and super explanation. You are a craftsman sir.
I learned. Thanks for a fine video.
Just curious, but in real life do you adjust your cuts for out of square corners? And I noticed you cut on the pull stroke. Turn your blade around and you could get closer to the edge, pencil line, and not need to file, less time more money.
Great video!
Thanks for responding awesome video
I learned from a carpenter with 45 years of experience 35 yrs ago and have been doing it that way for 35 years with zero call backs and zero problems, yet these yunguns want to fiddle with an inside corner getting the miter correct and using a half tube of caulk for 20 minutes. I always file on the downstroke to help eliminate any tear out however you did forget to say one very important comment at the end and so I will say it for you.........Now that's how you do it son.
Same here. I learned from my Grandfather, some 35 years ago; when I was 10 or 11. I am not a master carpenter; but I was raised by one.
We also used exactly this method for making window frames.
All of this has informed my artwork as a professional artist.
I learned about coping back in 1972 from a master carpenter. He had a hatful of tricks. Great trade woodworking is.
Great hobby too.
Good presentation here.
Nice tutorial.
Is this the same for molding with 52 degree spring angle? I'm going out of my mind trying to figure out (a) how to set up the compound mitre to make cut that will eventually be coped and (b) how to position the crown in the saw. Trying to do four 90 degree inside corners. Any advice will help. Thanks.
Thanks dude!
That's a great idea for a video-- cabinet construction details. I'll tape that next time I get a chance. Feel free to email me through my website if you have specific questions, though.
nice job!
This was very helpful. Thank you.
THE best video on coping crown! Thanks.
Kjempebra video👍🏻 veldig bra
Awesome 👍
When you say the wall is 45 degrees, do you mean the spring angle of your crown molding is 45 degrees? I'm using 38 degree spring single molding so to cope an inside corner cut. I think I need to cut at 38 degrees. Is that right?
Not sure which moment in the video you mean, but I think you have your concepts confused. Whatever the spring angle of your crown, the coping cut relates to the angle of the two WALLS. So, if two walls meet exactly at a 90 degree angle it would be a 45 degree cut--with your crown moulding situated on the saw as it would be when installed. Or, if you want to cut the crown flat on the saw you can use a chart to find the right compound saw angle. For me, I'll sometimes hold the crown upright if it is a small crown, or else put it upside down in the saw so it touches the base and the fence. Either way, the saw angle relates to the walls. This video is a little newer and might add some information for you: ruclips.net/video/rk29o3szGOI/видео.html
Using a block of wood and a hammer tap, move, or otherwise manipulate the two pieces together for their best fit.
Dave
Good lesson
Hello and great tutorial...I am about to install an oversized cove molding in a remodel. The ceilings are gabled on either end. I would like to use a coping method opposed to traditional crown cuts, which i have no problem with....how would i measure the corners that are gabled rather than a straight 90.....thanks....! Dan
I'm not sure I follow your question. When you say a "gabled" corner or ceiling I don't know what you mean. Could you elaborate a little more?
Great vid thanxz
Thank you.
thank you.
How does an elaborate ornate crown moulding like Fleur de lis,look like when put up ? Should I do the whole house in this ornate style to have it carry thru the house?
It's common now to be consistent throughout a whole house with whatever trim you decide to use, but that wasn't the case historically. Back in time it was more typical to have public rooms like living rooms and parlors with the most ornate trim as a way to show off wealth and taste. Lesser rooms like bedrooms and backrooms typically had simpler and therefore more affordable trim. Personally I lean toward the historical example because highly ornate trim in small bathrooms or bedrooms, for example, tends to overpower the room and look silly.
so, for an outside corner use a tool (as shown in the beginning) to make the miter cut as exact as possible?
For all corners be exact as possible! Yes, the gauge is helpful in finding the correct angle. See my other video on installing crown moulding alone, which has some other tips as well. If you have a really difficult outside corner, you may want to use scrap pieces to find the best cut. Sometimes you need to add or subtract a half degree to the actual angle in order to get a tight fit.
Fantastic
+enduring charm
Thanks! I'll give it a go :)
OH MY gosh!!! You made that look so stinking easy. It sooooo isn’t!!
Ha! Practice makes perfect.
I have found that his tips of darkening the edge of the line with a pencil and cutting the molding in sections helps a lot. I found it impossible to get the coping saw a blade around a 90ﾟ angle.
Good tip. ..
Hello again..a gabled roof is pretty much a triangle. So I’m not working wit a “flat”ceiling. So when I cope the corners where they ascend to a triangle, do I proceed with the same application-and miter at the appropriate angle? Thanks..
Okay, so I gather you're working with what we call in my neck of the woods a "cathedral" or "vaulted" ceiling. It's as if you removed the typical floor joists from above and left it open. Usually in that scenario the edge where the ceiling meets the walls is finished with just drywall and no trim, or a very small moulding if the ceiling is wood and the walls are drywall or plaster. I guess you're trying to use a large cove moulding around the entire wall/ceiling border. Large cove mouldings can be ornery in regular circumstances because the profile often deviates from piece to piece or even on the same board. Depending on the angle of your cathedral ceiling, you may need to cut a pretty severe angle on the moulding before you cope. Anyway, one technique is to create a pie-shaped transition piece in the corner to help transition to the sloped ceiling. But, you can use the regular method too. It's really no different than a flat ceiling if you think about it, other than you have an additional joint at the peak and you need to adjust for the more severe slope. Put another way, a flat ceiling might be a degree or two off of level in a corner, and you would adjust for that. In a vaulted ceiling it's the same thing except the angle is more severe. However, you'll almost certainly need and want to build test pieces for the corners and with cove moulding expect some trial and error. With short test pieces you can then measure the straight run by marking on the wall where the test pieces end and measuring those marks. Maybe hard to describe with words instead of pictures or video, but hopefully this helps a little.
I hit the Thumbs Up button twice, for two thumbs up. Great video.
thank you
How do I correct my coped joint if the fit is pretty good all along the cut, except there's a nagging 1/16" gap in the little vertical part at the top of the molding? I'm sure that I'm not over-cutting the line, there is enough back cut, and I mitered to 1/2 the wall angle.
In my experience, I cut off that little piece that he kept at the beginning (where he held his thumb) and that allows the profiles to meet up exactly instead of 1/16th off.
Do You have also a demo for a outside corner? I don't think that can be coped can it?
No, outside corners you need to miter. I would suggest using a miter gauge to determine the exact angle and I often go an extra 1/4 degree just to get a snug fit. Don't be afraid to use a test piece to get it just right.