"Upside down and backwards???" How to install crown molding
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- How to install crown molding! Crown molding can be one of the most frustrating and challenging carpentry skills to learn. I have been installing crown for over 25 years and will share secrets and techniques I use for a quick and professional looking installation. If you would would like to learn or have struggled with crown molding, my goal is to get you going as fast as possible.
Have you ever heard the term "Upside down and backwards" for cutting crown molding angles? Thats one of the common tips given for installing and although it is correct, more info is needed in order to save a lot of mistakes and wasted material. In this video, I take you through the process of installing 4 1/4" crown molding in a living room from start to finish. I cover details such as understanding room layout, types of corners, angles, determining direction of cuts, coping and easiest way to position material on the saw. I also include the final process I use for paint grade moldings showing caulking techniques for perfect painted trim work.
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Finally a video for people that have never done crown molding most videos do not explain it nearly as well , I thank you for the confidence to now try it. GREAT VIDEO
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck!
Beautiful video - you slowly and carefully with great detail, explained exactly how to do crown molding for someone who has never even done it. Even a professional could learn something from you.!
The best demonstration I’ve seen so far. Thank you for this
Thanks for the feedback glad it helped!
A very good explanation and video. I had two 90 degree angles (Headboard) and so 45 cuts worked perfect... Thanks...
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I’ve created a lot of scap wood in my attempts at crown molding. This vid was worth the time to view and get relative instructions. I finally applied your methods and successfully completed my first room.
So glad it helped you! You have to burn through some expensive material but once it clicks your mistakes go way down! Congrats on your first room!
This explains crown wso well! I can now understand it so much better!!! Thank you for taking the time to make the video and posting!
So glad it helped! It's a difficult concept to explain but it does get easier with some practice!
excellent teacher, best video FIVE stars
Excellent explanation !!
22:56 First, thank you for a great vid and instructions. Some, like myself, enjoy learning something new. I’ll never be a professional, but nevertheless, I love doing new things. My question is about a double cope. You said to measure wall to wall. When I did this, it was about 1/2” too long. I cut my first angle, then when I measured the length on the crown, I moved the end of the tape over to 90 degree line on bottom like you did when measuring for your outside corner. I did cut the bottom at 90 degree while doing the cope, as instructed. Can you give me a little more detail on how to measure for a double cope? Thanks again
Holy guack is this a helpful video! 👍👍👍
The best by far video of installing crown! I followed your instructions and my room looks amazing. If a woman at 75 can do it anyone can.
Thank you
So great to hear that it helped you out! Thanks so much for sharing!
If you can do it then I can too. I'm only 47 but that's not an excuse whatsoever.
Thank you
Ok day 1 I cut the inside corners right side up instead of upside down and so that was wrong and basically I did everything exactly opposite of what you said lol and went to bed scratching my head. Day 2: I might be able to save the crown. I’m gonna cope it the way you showed and see - wish me luck 😅
How did it go?
@@fultonfinewoodworks I got it! Flipped it upside down, remembered which was the right and left side and cut the 45 the right way and viola - it worked! I had to go back and watch some video segments a couple of more times but i got it - thank you! 🙏🏻
@@patriot1303 great to hear! It can be very confusing at first but the more you do it and practice, the less you have to think about it.
@@fultonfinewoodworkswhen you cut the inside corner to be coped, what angle to you initially cut at the miter saw?
@@mickeymallette2663 generally anything within the range of a 90 degree standard corner is cut at 45 degrees there is a lot of wiggle room when coping, if the actual angle was off from 90 it usually always still provides a good fit. When mitering both sides it has to be exact, another disadvantage of mitering both sides.
How about those huge gaps between the wall and the ceiling? That’s a lot of caulking that would have to be pumped in there no?
Sometimes a gap in the ceiling is unavoidable when the ceiling has a dip or is uneven. What I have found is always keep the molding running in a straight line and deal with the crack in a few ways. Caulk if it is under 1/4" and painted. Another option is to float the ceiling with drywall mud to level out the spot that goes in.
Thank you my brother@@fultonfinewoodworks
What kind of dance style is this called ?
Crown yoga?
What’s a appropriate price for hanging crown molding? About 300 liner feet
The cost could vary wildly depending on the overhead of who is doing, the variables of the job, the region the job is, the logistics of the job, so many factors
You skipped the cut before coping
Not sure I understand what your saying, one end is cut and coped and the other side is not it is flat cut and dies into wall.
By far the best how-to video on crown I've seen. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for the feedback! That was the goal, it’s a complicated concept to explain but once it clicks you have it! (I plan on doing a crown molding advanced techniques and tips next.)
What revelation: it is OK to play with your scarf,-joint and butt- joint. As long as you do it alone. The cauk is key to coping and filling small cracks bent over upside down and backwards. The bigger the crack, the thicker the cauk.Small white cracks should run from big black ones depending on what you’re into.
This must be one of the valuable crown molding tutorial videos out there! The way you've documented each thing you've done, why you do it that way, and as a bonus, in an old house that isn't square and how to tackle that too. A huge Thank you!
Thanks so much for the feedback, so glad it helped! Fyi I am currently planning a part 2 video to cover FAQs and additional techniques, stay tuned!
Thank you for sharing all this, an essence of your 25 years experience, for free for all! It was insanely valuable in every detail, every second of it. First time in my 45y life I donated for any tutorial material :) I have been struggling with crown moldings and baseboards for weeks in my Budapest apartment.
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Excellent work. I find caulking more efficient by pushing the tube along the work rather than pulling; seems to fill the gaps better. Also, coping can be done effectively on a table saw and fine tuned with a 4-in-hand rasp and utility knife. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
My dad always said upside down and backwards is how you want to cut crown molding. My dad was a Master Carpenter master furniture builder master welder rail maker in a master hot rod mechanic. Rest in peace, Father
Can you install crown molding on a room with a cathedral ceiling design and find the angle if possible! Thanks a lot. Your video is so helpful!
... why oh why is it important to find the studs ?... its not like you can find them on every wall/ceiling (thats not how it works), sure you can find them on the walls, but why is it important ?.... i do not mean to slam your technique(s), but coping is extremely overrated, and unnecessary as well as finding the studs. For all my crown installs I use 23 gauge pin nails and adhesive (looks and acts like caulk), but its glue... I assure you (I put my company name on it), my crown molding installs will never ever move.
When it will be painted, I agree, it’s not coming down, just with the seal on wall and ceiling and pin nails it will hold. With stain grade it’s more important to hit some studs. Same goes for stain grade and coping, it’s a big advantage to cope because it can’t be filled but I prefer to cope all of it paint grade and stained.
Dumb question. Toward the end when about to do the coping cut on the inside corner you put an initial mitre cut (prior to coping). What was the angle
I just finished Placing crown molding in my master bedroom. This is a log cabin and my crown is clear finished. The ceiling and walls are very uneven. Several places I had to use wood putty to fill in the cracks. But I sure wished I would of viewed your video before I started. Very well explained. This was the third room I crown molded. ^The other two room were small enough to have no seams. I would then measure with measuring sticks, that was the only way I could get accuate measurments. Great job.
Thank you for the video (3 years ago). Do you nail the top edge of the crown to the ceiling?
Thank you for saying build the outside corner first and cope the inside! Soo much easier!!! ❤❤❤❤❤
Man...you're an awesome guy to let us in on your magic. Your work is beautiful
Thanks so much, will be releasing some additional videos soon!
Hi,
If I need to cope both ends of the crown then am i measuring from wall to wall or end of the butt crown to the opposite end?
Hope it makes sense. First time doing crown and your video is helpful.
Thanks
Abhi
All your measurements are referenced on the bottom of the molding. While on the saw because the molding is upside down this will be the top. This is handy because it's easy to see your mark and where the blade needs to cut. To further answer your question you measure from the butt to the location where it will touch the end of the wall the angle does it's own thing either growing or shrinking past that point.
Nit pickin, the sound in that empty room did not work well on my computer... Thanks for taking the time and sharing your experience...
That's was about 3 years ago, my audio game has improved now, I hope to make a part 2 video this winter to go along with the original video - stay tuned
Thanks for sharing. Much appreciated. I'm a newby to crown and got through my 1st project with a just a few mistakes but recovered well. I found that coping was a hassle and just measuring the cuts so the inside corners blended / flowed into each other was much easier. Just wondering why you did not just cut the insider corners vs coping? Again to me it seemed much easier to just make the cuts. I messed up more crown trying to fiddle with coping the insides. Thanks
I double mitered forever nothing wrong with it, I have just found I can spring a joint much tighter with coping. Another nice thing about coping is say a inside corner is 88 or 92 degrees you can still cut at 45 and cope and it will fit. You also get to cut one with a flat cut which saves time. Double miter requires exact and the wider the molding the easier it is to have a gap at the top or bottom. Coping also allows for future wood movement and makes any separation less noticeable.
Awesome!! Now I feel confident enough to finish my renovation. I just started base board and window/door trim finally got a hang of it. This is by far the best video I've seen on RUclips for doing crowns 👑 cheers!!
Thank you so much for the feedback glad it helped!
How did you get 47°? My saw maxes out at 45°.
Thanks, this is a great video, and I learned a lot.
Thank you. For your knowledge and careful break down of the steps and processes and why they're necessary
Thanks for the informative video.
Great explanation of coping. You make it look easy :-)
Thanks! I am glad it helped, once you understand the concepts it can be easy with practice.
Thank you so much for making this video and keeping it up. Thank you for taking the time and explaining everything very well for a beginner to understand. Really appreciate it.
Exactly right. Upside down and backwards. In the saw, that is,not on the wall. The cove always goes down.
On the saw. For you newcomers just use the red marks on the saw angles and cut it laying flat. Cope your inside corners if you can,otherwise just do the stupid standing inside corners.
Trust me
Dude, you are a legend. I've probably watched 1.5 hours worth of crown moulding installation videos tonight and came out of each one of them with more questions than I did going into it.
You explained everything perfectly. I particularly appreciate the info on measuring to the wall side and how to do a mid wall joint.
Great video. What is the portable table that you use?
Thanks
Thanks. It's a Paulk style workbench that I made, Ron Paulk sells plans for it if your interested.
10% of the folks watching would ever attempt to carve the meat out with your method, we do though. Nice video brother.
I am a finish Carpenter and this was about the best video out on the internet for doing crown. I would do exactly the same. The only diff is i use a laser tape when alone and a sanding pad on a grinder to sand the cope after hitting it with the hand saw or jigsaw! Great video! 👍
Thanks for the feedback - I use a laser tape regularly as well it's very handy! I have about 5 Bosch ones mainly because I lose them and then find them later on after I buy another..
I done the same. Ive bought 4 or 5 now and who knows where i left them! 😊
Thank you for sharing your experience installing crown molding. I appreciate it as everyone has their own methods. I can only say that doing white crown allows for a much easier application and time. I am by no means a crown expert, and defer to your experience. A few things to mention and ask if doing this already prefinished with varnish. I am currently doing a house that requires crown application in a natural finish and varnished. I am varnishing prior to cutting and putting on. I seem to have problems with the alignment in wall to ceiling. If you were going to do a job that required no filling of joints since it was going to be a varnished finish, how would you best keep that crown running nice and true, as once you get to those corners, they have to be sitting in plane to one another to get that perfect fit since you are not going to be able to do any filling in, other than caulking the crack from the walls or ceiling imperfections? Would you snap any lines on the walls at all? I do let my inside corners run un-nailed until I meet them up. I also have been butting any long runs together with biscuits to get a perfect fit and keeping it perfect when nailing, as I cannot touch the joint to fix anything once put on. I guess there are different ways of doing crown for different applications. For your job, you did the best thing. For me that would not work well. For cabinets or small one piece rooms, I would not do any coping and would fit and nail before putting on the cabinet tops. I also have to use a cutting jig as those cuts cannot be off at all since I cannot get any cuts not fitting perfectly. And my most important tool that is absolutely necessary is a number 49 and 50 Nicholas patternmaker's rasp. I could not do this type of work without these rasps to dial in the fits. Any comments or suggestions or doing pre finished varnish crown?
I guess you could always do it unfinished, but I have tried it that way also, and it is too time consuming to go back and sand and varnish up that high for me anyways. The inside and outside corners still have to fit good as you still cannot caulk them up and varnish over them without it showing terribly. Man, that white finish is a lifesaver for us carpenters anyways.
Hey sorry for delay I missed this one. For stained molding I always cope inside so I can get as tight of joint as possible with minimal chance of opening later. I make sure I am very accurate with measuring the outside corners so they are tight as well. I make sure the molding is level all the way around the room on the walls and I ignore high places on the ceiling and leave a gap. This gap can be filed in with mud on the ceiling and feathered out but for minimal gaps caulk can be used and no one will ever notice. It's noticeable when the wall side is not level however thats why it gets priority.
I did not see him address the part regarding varnishing prior to installing...it would be near impossible, difficult and messy to stain, sand and varnish.
I stained, sanded and varnished all the crown molding for our older house reno in early 2019 BEFORE we installed it.
I shudder just thinking about doing it after...I chose to match the stain to the floor, which is Jacobean and ebony mixed together...what a mess on the ceiling and walls, then the sanding with dust everywhere, and the weird way of working with your arms overhead...yikes...and very unsafe to boot. Better to do all the staining, varnishing and sanding BEFORE installation. You can keep all the mess confined to your work area and be safe and comfortable to boot.
I had to watch your video a couple times especially the flipping over before cutting. I got it. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback, it’s a confusing concept but once you get it, it’s like riding a bike once you pull it off you get it. It gets easier the more you do.
3 years and still having new views lol I was about to cut crown and after messing it up SO many times at my previous house I decided to figure out the right way
Excellent demonstration and explanation of this process . The only thing that I am not sure of is the backwards element . Upside down is easy understood but the backward part always has confused me . The idea odfthe two sample cuts is great tip and is fool proof for me as a DIY er .
The last small job I done left me frustrated as I started off with a good length of moulding and was panicking after I messed up most of it .
Thanks for the info, 😊this video is 100% excellent.
Glad it was helpful!
One of the best videos on crown moulding . Could be fewer ads buts worth it.
Thanks so much for watching!
Wow! One of the best crown molding videos. Thanks for sharing your talent.
Excellent video. I was told that you should always go for one “butt” cut and one cope cut on each length where there are the inside corners of the room. That avoids having to do a double cope which is the hardest of them all.
The walls I’m about to start to cove are masonry which makes life a lot harder; I don’t know of a better way than to use fast grab adhesive on the back of the cove and use masonry nails into the wall representing the line of where the cove hits the wall. Effectively, you have the masonry nails as a temporary shelf to lean the cove onto until the grab does it’s job.
Please tell me better ways!
Thanks! Your on the right track that will work, one other option you could install a piece of wood against the brick fastened with Instagram and tapcon screws around the perimeter that allows the crown to sit over it. Then when you install the molding you have a nice place to nail into. If you rip an angle on the wood you can get even more wood behind it. Just make sure you allow a space inbetween so it doesn't get in the way of the molding.
@@fultonfinewoodworks wow, that was quick. Could you please give a little more detail on using instagram as a cove adhesive?
Seriously, my next coving job is a complex (multi-part) solid oak (home moulded) cove around the entrance room in the barn now nearly fully converted. There will be dentil, bed, cove mouldings all combined in a Tudor style. For this, I am planning to put up a softwood form that goes behind the oak mouldings: it will triangular but with clipped corners - something like 1” vertically down from the ceiling; 4” at an angle and then 3” horizontally from the wall. I’ve yet to make final decisions on the mouldings and I need those before making the form that will support all the mouldings. But, if I get the form right, it will make fixing the oak much simpler. One issue with real timber is that caulk and paint isn’t an option.
0 itty
So every corner will be butted to the wall with one coped side?
On inside corners, I try to always do that correct
Should be burning a inch with tape measure to get a more of a exact measurement
It's an option but I don't find that to be a requirement as I generally cut a bit strong for snap into place anyway.
@@fultonfinewoodworks I thought the same thing and he's right it's more accurate....I burn ten inches
Great video best way said
Great video thx
can I just hire you and fly you out here?
If only I could clone myself I would be on it!
Is there any difference cutting it flat ?
Cutting it flat requires you to bevel the side to side bevel of the saw blade as well as rotating the angle of the saw. This requires a compound miter saw and the bevel angle depends on the type of molding being used. I find it much easier to cut it in the manner I showed. This is called cutting it in position.
that scarf was not on a stud? i guess with the glue its not necessary. im installing around cabinets in an old house. the ceiling is over an inch off from one end to the other . i need to hold a level line because the cabinets are level. would you rip the crown where the ceiling is low or start from the lowside and leave a gap to the ceiling where it is higher? excellent instructor thank you
I don't believe a scarf needs to be on a stud. That wastes time and material. Molding is fairly lightweight and has generally many other fastening points on studs where the effects of not having the scarf over a stud is fairly negligible.
Great video for the beginner on installing crown moldings. Thank you so much for a very informative video.
Thanks so much, I am currently planning a part two updated video, it will answer many questions I have had since posting .
Great no nonsense and easy to follow video! Thx! BTW I love your work bench top, where did you find it?
Thanks! I made the workbench, it's based on a Ron Paulk design you can search for a video on it on his page.
Lol…. I’ve been doing this for 35 yrs.
1) a good stud finder is better Bc anyone who’s ever done this (unless they framed it themselves) knows most framers are running too fast and don’t pay attention thinking about the finish guy/trim carpenter. Sometimes it’s 16 oc sometimes it’s 14.5, 18, etc Bc they blew threw to get it done. Never trust “well everything is 16” oc”
2) why even have a dual compound sliding miter saw if your not going to use some of its greatest built in features…. Such as 38-52 crown bevel33.9 & miter 31.6. On 45-45 bevel30.0 miter35.3. My saw has these presets and marks built in. Flat is the way to go.
3) the fewer the splices the better off you are. And if your using 12’ material in a 15’ room vs 16’ material your causing yourself extra work and the possibility of the product looking hack. There’s a thing called “bedding” the cope. You may want to learn why you “bed” the cope and why & how you do it. It’s also better to do a straight butt joint then a miter on long spans. Miter joints catch the eye and if you dont run the miter the right way you’ll see the joint, no matter how much you fill and sand every time you walk in the room. A butt joint has no direction.
4) I’d wish ppl would stop making these videos. Your presenting our craft as a “hey you can do it like a pro” by watching a video.
Screw all you DIY ppl that believe my trade is something that’s so easy you can master it in 15 minutes by watching a video.
This is intended to get someone going on installing crown molding. Cutting in the flat is not the best way to start out for sure. There are many methods to do everything in woodworking and congrats for 35 years, you should make a video I am sure you could share some wisdom as well. Nothing can replace a ton of experience but I am glad this video has helped many pull off a successful install. There will always be plenty of work for the Pros without a doubt.
Don't you just love ppl who talk crap abt yr vid, but have no vids or help out here? There are also many ways to arrive at the same end result. It's abt preference.
He wasn't always experienced and started stupid like the rest of us. I would never hire such a conceited so-called 'pro'. Why can't I work on my own home?
I haven't even finished watching your vid...had to run out and buy that yellow plastic angle finder along with a pin nailer. As usual I will have to watch several times with lots of stopping, and will be testing everything out and go along step by step)
Thanks
Very helpful - masterful work explained very clearly. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Exactly the way my father taught me 40 years ago. Upside down & backward. Cut off the face of the inside corner and push it into the butt cut piece. I tried to explain this to an experienced carpenter who uses the presets on the miter saw and never gets a good corner!
Your Dad is smart man! Awesome to hear! I get comments about double mitering inside corners is better but I have installed both ways many times and this way I have found stands up to test of time for sure. A lot of trim carpenters never see the work they install 1 or 2 years later. I learned in my own home and experienced the surprise cracks 1 year after install. Led me to finding a better way.
This is definitely tricky business, but you give a very detailed explanation. I have my work "cut out" for me
Ha ha! As long as you take these concepts and practice it, you will become proficient fairly quickly with it!
I noticed in this room you only nailed the bottom detail of the crown but never once nailed above also. Why is that?
This was a really old house with plaster walls the nail gun can make the ceiling flake or chip shooting at the angle so I nailed into wall only and the caulk line at the top also acts like a glue.
very poor quality of work 👎
Thanks for watching!
YES THIS IS WHAT I NEEDED THANK YOU!!!
Did you have to cope that piece? Could you if just did a normal miter on the inside corners ?
Not a must to cope, you can do a normal miter on inside corners. I just like how tight I can get it when coping also its great for stain grade moldings, as caulk is not an option.
Thank you! Your instruction is straight foward and easily understood. Thanks again.
So glad it helped! Thanks for the feedback!
Great video! Would you be able to give me pros/cons of using wood vs MDF?
Thanks. Wood is less dusty than MDF and lighter. MDF can break. The advantage of MDF was at one time it was half the cost of wood trim but at some point store started calling it "premium" because it was smooth and charged more than wood so wood wins in my book. If it will better painted finger jointed pine or poplar usually a great choice.
Outside corners grow bigger then your measurements!!!!! Omg omg my brain finally said Ahhhhhhhh!!! Thank you!!
You are so welcome!
Best video that I have seen on this subject. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Why upside down? Why not right side up?
The video explains it fairly well but if I had to explain in a sentence, I would say the angle grows out or in from the bottom of the molding, the measurements are taken from the bottom of the molding. So by turning up side down the blade is cutting into that measurement. Cutting in this position also helps in that you don't have to figure out compound miter angles.
@@fultonfinewoodworks thank you
Great video - quick question to confirm my understanding of the correct miter angle setting when cutting for an inside corner. For the piece the will later be cut with a coping saw, are you setting your miter saw to 45 degrees to make the initial cut to length?Thanks!
Or in other words - what angle is the miter saw set to at 17:30 of the video? Thanks
Thanks. You are correct that cut would be a 45 for a standards inside corner that is being coped. You follow the same rule as cutting half of the actual angle and the other side is cut at 90
I finally can cope!
So glad, with practice it gets easier!
I do crown for long time, but, thanks a lot for your video
You’re welcome 😊
Great video thank you
solid explanation. thank you.
Very Good Information, excellent tutorial.
Thanks, so glad it helped! I have a part 2 on my to do list for the near future
27 degrees is half of 94??
This video was posted 2 years ago, your going to have to give me more than that, I don't recall that info being in there.
@fultonfinewoodworks hi, sorry i thought you mentioned that the corner wasn't or never is at 90 degrees, so you mentioned the true angle which was more than 90 , but you said half the true angle was 27 i think
Best video on the subject. Very thorough. Thanks.
Thanks so much for the feedback, glad it helped!
Great video
Thanks for sharing
New subscriber here
Thank you and thanks for subscribing, I am currently working on a part 2 of the crown molding video to answer frequently asked questions
Do you know the difference between looking into a joint and looking over a joint.....and most people frown on putting a joint so close to to another joint...on a 14 foot span the joint should be around 7 ft mark
That's totally subjective on almost every install I do the 7' mark would place it at the center of the run. I would much rather put it somewhere in the first or last third of the run. If installed correctly the seam shouldn't matter anyway.
On looking in and across the joint, for sure joint direction matters and is always something to consider
@@fultonfinewoodworks I believe most trim carpenters would disagree
@@fultonfinewoodworks addiñg info on dirrection would have been a nice addition.....or maybe an idea for a future vid
@@carlboudreaux this trim carpenter does it this way, it's nice to be my own boss!
Great video with detailed explanation! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the feedback, glad it could help!
Excellent..I watch a ton of videos, this guy knows how to explain things
Thanks for the feedback, glad you were able to follow, crown molding can be so confusing without a doubt!
I’m not really understanding why you have to turn it upside down. Can’t you place it up against the fence right side up and cut it that way?
The angle and measurement always starts from the wall and that's where the mark is on the molding. The angle then grows or shrinks from that mark. If you did it in reverse you would have to calculate the distance plus or minus length and cut back to the actual dimension. It would add a difficult extra step to be accurate.
@@fultonfinewoodworks thanks going to try to tackle a small powder room. All inside corners was going to try to miter cut as the angles are pretty good in the wall corners but maybe I will try coping. Thanks
@@JJ4848 I mitered it forever before I started coping you can have success with that method but caulk is sometimes more required. For stain grain molding coping is almost a must. To save material cut two 1' pieces and test out the corners before cutting the full length. Remember to follow straight lines on the wall and ignore uneven ceilings that can be caulked filled in later.
@@fultonfinewoodworks Thanks
Great Job Nicely Done 👍🏽🔨📐
Thanks 👍
This video really helped me alot! Thank you also what kinda watch is that? ORIENT?
So glad to hear it helped! It's a Rolex Explorer 2
@@fultonfinewoodworks OH Wow! Boy was I off. Lol
@@TheWpruss713 it's been a great watch worn everyday for 20 years!
Sure looks nice and u deserve it! Maybe one day. Thanks again!
@@TheWpruss713 good luck on the install and let me know if you run into any problems. I am going to make a part 2 video soon that I am going to cover answers to the FAQ's from the video
excellent job
Thanks!
Thorough. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Superb.
Thanks a lot
Great video
Thanks! Glad it could help!
Good job
Thanks! Hope you found it helpful.
You started out stating how important it is nailing the molding on the studs, then you put the splice between studs. The double out on top of the studs is low enough to use. Glad you be leave in coping inside corners. I am a retired carpenter of forty years. I was taught to, first, build a miter box. I hand drove my nails for many years. When using a miter saw, I always cut flat, even in odd angled corners. I always left that bottom tab on. Leaving it on, will make others thank that it is a mitered corner. Glad you take pride in your work. Most carpenters now days miter all joints. Time is more important to them, than quality.
I'll trust the saw presets and lay the crown flat. And if you are going to cope, base where you start on whether you are left or right handed .And try to avoid a double cope. Why did he need a joint? I missed that.
Cutting molding on the flat is more difficult for someone learning, this method is easier to learn in my opinion.
This must be a spoof video. He did everything wrong.
Nope not a spoof at all, please tell me all the things I did wrong, I am anxious to hear what I am doing wrong, after 20 or so years of installing I am always willing to learn more.
Carry on Fulton. It's not for me to say.
@@terryferan9028 I was really curious because it's working out kind of great for me
@@fultonfinewoodworks Always happy to help. Carry on.
@@terryferan9028 but you didn’t help. What do you do? Lay it flat and trust your saw settings? I think this guy did an excellent job, and his way of explaining it was really great.