Special thanks in reference to "where" to cut the pex pipe to install a fitting, in this case the "T." Nobody, I mean NOBODY mentions this in any pex video I've watched Thanks!
Great video. I like the Delta valve as well. I use the one with the shut off valves and for Pex-A. One thing I like to do is put one or two wraps of Teflon tape around the threads for the bonnet nut that holds the cartridge in. I only do this that so it makes it easier to get the bonnet nut off when the valve has to be replaced.
Awesome videos, being a life time member has allowed us to complete one full remodel and now we're starting a new basement shower/bathroom from scratch.
Well, I went with wedi the first time and other than cost, it worked out great. I'm gonna go with their shower pan combo with this one as well as a bench and led niche..tile floor the whole bathroom... looking forward to the task
Very timely.. I'm getting ready to redo a shower and have to replace the old faucet with a new Delta unit. Never used PEX before so a bit nervous. Your video helped.
Nice tutorial. I like the stainless steel cinch clamps instead of the copper rings for my PEX b installs. The same tool works for the different sizes and it doesn't require the go/no go gauge.
@@HomeRepairTutor for a DIYer, it's too pricey for the tools and materials. PEX B is also better in some ways, like being less likely to burst under pressure.
@@HomeRepairTutor A is the superior product. I find it easier to work with as well. One of the best things is the ability to fix kinks by heating it up.
@@HomeRepairTutor Same. Wirsbo. I am not crazy about the manifolds from any company though. Have to be careful attaching the tube and can't fix leaking packing nuts. I stopped using on antifreeze systems. The quality of everything is better with that brand though.
Delta valves are totally worth the cost. Pex is fast and forgiving if you make mistakes. I find that Pex on the shower does reduce water pressure from the shower nozzle. Good if you want to save water. I might not have done Pex on the master shower if I had to do it over.
Its your debris screen on your shower head or your old PRV or many different factors. Pex has nothing to do with pressure. It is used in commercial setups and is trusted.
Awesome video well done and clean work I would have mentioned the measurements from center of valve and and height of shower head and valve and also code requirements but overall great plumbing
I like the tip about cutting the vertical pex flush with the bottom of the horizontal, and then cutting the horizontal flush with side of the vertical. I wonder if that trick works the same with sweat fittings?...or flare fittings?
I need to get this done on my Condo as a refurb Put a couple of valves in to stop water flow so I can replace things without having to have water turned off to the entire building. Put inline filters on both the hot and cold side (iron and mineral issues) 50yo+ building where the main water line in the roof is Galvanized, but each unit has copper branching off.
You can also dry fit the whole set up and then pull away from board a little to get better clearance with your crimp tool. Of course get it where you want it first nice and level and plumb. Make sure nailing board is plumb if installing a tub spout and use copper for that
I would usually come off of the valve with copper and hit it with a couple split rings before I go to pex. You want it to be more steady. I'm a licensed plumber in Massachusetts.
You can also use the rubber part of your pliers to lightly crimp the ring in place then finish it off with your crimp tool. Some crimp tools also have a pre crimp feature as well.
The only down side I can see is that water Hammer arrestors have rubber diaphragms that eventually fail and you need to replace the unit, how would you access it? I'd think it would be better further down the line maybe in the basement where you can access it. As long as it's before the valve it will do its job of absorbing shock.
Built my house with this type of plumbing in 2003. I had one of the brass 90s burst one night luckily I was home. Over the last few years I have had about 12 fittings corrode and leak. I have been replacing with sharkbite fittings and it's not easy after the years of the pipe shifting and flexing from years of contractions. Do yourself a favor and go copper especially if you have more than one level. I can't imagine the nightmare another level would cause.
Did you find out out what caused the corrosion? I had a house I did about 10 years ago all his brass fitting (on the hot side corroded and leaked) but it was because he did not set his softener correctly and the salt was eating up the hot side and water heaters.
@@jeffreyplumber1975 Manablock system are the most wasteful use of water to use. Think about it, everytime you turn on the hot water you have to wait for the water to come from the manablock, so if you are in the master bath shaving and you manablock is in the garage on the other side of the house you have waste all that water to get to your sink to shave. Now you are done shaving and ready for a shower now you have to wait for all that water to come from the manablock again to heat up the shower, where as a trunk and branch system that water is already there.
@@jwblount7802 Well water. The brass fitting are really thin and susceptible to failure from corrosion from the simple minerals in well water. Bad product.
@@daddyfixit631 Got to be a bad batch of fittings because I probably got 1000's among 1000's of brass fittings on well water and not one call back because of that. Got to be more to it than just the water...
When re-plumbing showers, do you usually stick with the same dimension of PEX B as the copper pipe? That is, when replacing 1/2” copper pipe, do you use 1/2” PEX B pipe? Or do you upsize to 3/4” PEX B to better match the inner diameters? I’ve seen different views on whether there is much of a difference between the two approaches on short pipe runs, but was wondering if you’ve done both and have any opinion. Great video!
lois If its a tub shower DO NOT USE PEX FOR THE TUB SPOUT youll be busting out walls later or might be check manufacture specs Moen Delta or whoever makes the valve will state in instructions
On a flow restricted fixture like a shower head, even 1/2” is more than sufficient. Especially for super short runs shown in the video. Also, upsizing would slow the arrival of hot water by more than 2X.
excellent video. do you test the line for leaks before finishing the drywall ? also does the PEX pipe system can work for laundry lines? I prefer this method than the brass type of course
never seen a hammer arrest on a shower system... interesting. always check your go/nogo rotating it as sometimes crimp rings can warp into an oval shape. Nice video
You never seen them on a shower system because they are not needed. 🤣😂 this is so stupid. And he ran it in pex so then you have even less banging of the pipes. 😃😃
Pex tubing/ plumbing does not require water hammers ever. What exactly do you think would make any noise with plastic tubing? I've been plumbing since before pes ever existed.
Hi, great video. I'm hearing that switching a 1/2-inch copper pipe to pex B will cause water flow issues due to the pex fittings and could cause plumbing issues later. What is your thoughts? Tks for the input.
Great video I'm getting ready to swap out my tube for a shower unit it very confused on which crimper to buy What crimper did you use it looks perfect Thank you
Great video, love the fast forward! Wondering if it's important to secure the pex where it comes through studs, etc. I've seen this in other videos but hard to imagine there'd be enough movement to wear through the pex, but maybe over decades?
Matt we do want this to last decades and I dont mean maybe. its good prctice to install a trisulator slang name is butt plugs secures and eliminates hammering or abrasion. We all get in a hurry but little steps like this are differance between a system that works trouble free for decades and one that will make it past a one year warranty
What’s the difference between the copper rings with the red spacer on it and the copper rings without the red spacer? Is it just so you get consistent spacing and jam that red spacer up against the fitting?
I wanted to split off my 3/4 line to have the master bath on a separate zone. Can I split 1/2 from the 3/4 and run up a 8 ft wall directly to the fixture or do I have to run 3/4 up the wall?
The thing he is right about washing machines needing dishwashers a shower valve does not and there should be an access panel on the back of the wall for in case the hammer arrestor goes bad you need to be able to access them and that’s why I do not recommend the crimp ones use a half inch threaded pecks adapter to go to half inch hammer arrestors so if they have to be replaced they’re an easy replacement now you just made more work for the person who has to come back in and technically they will vibrate in the wall because there’s not enough support😮
any color pex at any point is okay. future plumbers following logic might not like you though. There is sometimes oxygen barrier needed for some heating applications. PEXa only systems do not work with PEXb pipe/tubing.
Are those Diaphramed air chambers? Is there a code where you are for them to be accessible for servicing? I have allways been taught to use copper for the riser peice for the shower head. Does pex slow down your shower pressure?
PEXa expansions should give you minutely more pressure, and PEXb fittings likely drops a very small bit. At this point very few local codes should require water hammer arresters (diaphragmed air chambers) for PEX and CPVC.
If you use a 2x10 board to secure the mixing valve, at what depth do you have to set it so it will be at the appropriate depth for when the backer board and tile are done?
The black square plastic depth gauge (seen in video at 1:21 ), included with the valve, needs to be set so that the finished wall is within the width of that black plastic. His was a hair inside of the finished tile wall, which is usually close enough.
Heights are generally 38” to 48” for the valve based on NKBA recommendations and Shower heads depend on the user, but 82” to 84” is a good place to start
What do you do if you are working in a space that doesn't allow for the use of the tool? (Can't open it wide enough). Also, can you connect new Pex to old Pex?
Where do you find the pex valves? They stopped carrying them in the stores years ago. I had so many call backs for leaks while using threaded adapters, I went back to soldering all my shower and tub valves.
there are a few recommendations set by Delta and the National Kitchen and Bath Association. Delta recommends this valve be set such that the plaster guard roughly within 1/4” of the finished wall, their directions vary for valves with integrated shut offs, so read the directions carefully. The height recommended by the NKBA is between 38” and 48” off the finished tile floor - it’s a wide range to suit the height of the user.
You can put it however high you want the shower head usually goes at like 75 in from the ground main thing to remember is the pressure builders he has on the mixing valve and if you dont sana use them then tie your lines back into eachother so the valve will build pressure eveenly
@@3807shawn Those are arrestors sparky, not pressure builders(?). They alleviate water hammer when you shut the faucet off. You can't tie your got and cold lines together
PE x pipe needs regular support to avoid stress to joints. It should be 90 deg bend to the mixer rather than another concealed joints. The arrestor is over the top
Flow with type b Pex is not a issue if upsized one pipe size to within 6 foot of room plumbed. Reduce back to 1/2 inch at each juncture back into individual room with water. Also never use any fitting that reduces flow or causes a restriction due to inside diameter of a fitting being smaller then1/2inch ,on tub spouts, rest of connections on valve ok, never on tub spout or you won’t be happy. In other wards sweat or thread tub spout crimp rest of valve.
I am on a well system and get no where near 50 psi currently have 1/2 copper that keep getting pin hole leaks I want to install pex to avoid the leaking but can not get straight answers to if the water flow will be restricted or not
Normally up against the drywall or the back of the 2x4 stud wall. But you still want to use the plaster guard to ensure the valve is at the correct depth
Thank you so much for not adding all the extra fluff that so many people use. Nice and simple with no monologue.
New project upcoming and I have never used pex. But, thanks to your video, I believe that I can do it. Thank You. No more soldering (maybe)
Special thanks in reference to "where" to cut the pex pipe to install a fitting, in this case the "T." Nobody, I mean NOBODY mentions this in any pex video I've watched Thanks!
Excellent video. Straight forward with tips...Like the plate tip on the 2x4 to protect the pipe! Thank you!
Great video. I like the Delta valve as well. I use the one with the shut off valves and for Pex-A. One thing I like to do is put one or two wraps of Teflon tape around the threads for the bonnet nut that holds the cartridge in. I only do this that so it makes it easier to get the bonnet nut off when the valve has to be replaced.
Awesome videos, being a life time member has allowed us to complete one full remodel and now we're starting a new basement shower/bathroom from scratch.
that’s awesome news buddy!! Super excited to see your project. What kind of shower are you building?
Well, I went with wedi the first time and other than cost, it worked out great. I'm gonna go with their shower pan combo with this one as well as a bench and led niche..tile floor the whole bathroom... looking forward to the task
@@anthonymyers-35 sounds like an awesome renovation!!
EXTREMELY HELPFUL 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Very timely.. I'm getting ready to redo a shower and have to replace the old faucet with a new Delta unit. Never used PEX before so a bit nervous. Your video helped.
Your job is so clean my man
Nice tutorial. I like the stainless steel cinch clamps instead of the copper rings for my PEX b installs. The same tool works for the different sizes and it doesn't require the go/no go gauge.
thanks for the tips, how do you feel about PEX A?
@@HomeRepairTutor for a DIYer, it's too pricey for the tools and materials. PEX B is also better in some ways, like being less likely to burst under pressure.
@@HomeRepairTutor A is the superior product. I find it easier to work with as well. One of the best things is the ability to fix kinks by heating it up.
@@IslandPlumber it’s a great product, I like Uponor but what’s your preferred type?
@@HomeRepairTutor Same. Wirsbo. I am not crazy about the manifolds from any company though. Have to be careful attaching the tube and can't fix leaking packing nuts. I stopped using on antifreeze systems. The quality of everything is better with that brand though.
WOW QUICK AND EASY!! GREAT JOB!!!
Delta valves are totally worth the cost. Pex is fast and forgiving if you make mistakes. I find that Pex on the shower does reduce water pressure from the shower nozzle. Good if you want to save water. I might not have done Pex on the master shower if I had to do it over.
Your crazy there’s no way you can tell that minor drop in psi you nut
Its your debris screen on your shower head or your old PRV or many different factors. Pex has nothing to do with pressure. It is used in commercial setups and is trusted.
Great clean job and tutorial with Beginners in mind... I appreciate your hard work.
Awesome video well done and clean work I would have mentioned the measurements from center of valve and and height of shower head and valve and also code requirements but overall great plumbing
Great video! Easy to follow. THANKS!
I like the tip about cutting the vertical pex flush with the bottom of the horizontal, and then cutting the horizontal flush with side of the vertical. I wonder if that trick works the same with sweat fittings?...or flare fittings?
I need to get this done on my Condo as a refurb
Put a couple of valves in to stop water flow so I can replace things without having to have water turned off to the entire building.
Put inline filters on both the hot and cold side (iron and mineral issues)
50yo+ building where the main water line in the roof is Galvanized, but each unit has copper branching off.
Nice I use stainless steel clamps now great video
was a complete and informative video, thanks
You can also dry fit the whole set up and then pull away from board a little to get better clearance with your crimp tool. Of course get it where you want it first nice and level and plumb. Make sure nailing board is plumb if installing a tub spout and use copper for that
Great video! Thanks for your help!
I would usually come off of the valve with copper and hit it with a couple split rings before I go to pex. You want it to be more steady. I'm a licensed plumber in Massachusetts.
hit it with a couple split rings?
@@blueplasma5589 hangers
Very cool product. Can't wait to use on my next shower.
Helped me out a lot - thanks for posting
Awesome 🙌🏼🔥
Great stuff. Thank you 🙏
Yes this delta shower valve is the best in the market and price reasonable. Plus if you ever need a part delta is always lifetime
Nice clean well laid out work. I hate seeing plumbers or anyone for that matter doing sloppy work.
I've been debating on Pex A, B or copper and I think you convinced me to go with B. Thanks. Nice video.
I really like A but you need the expansion tool
A is the best. B fittings are smaller and choke the water flow a bit.
Pex A is better
Copper is better
Huge help. Thank you very much.
Nice tips buddy Thanks for all information all experience
Thanks for that video
AWESOME work !
Good morning👍👍
I like your channel
Ton travail est propre ( clean)👍👍👍👍
Thank you 🙏🏼
i wish i knew about those crimp ring spacer. had to fight some of those ring while installing into odd position, would have save a lots of frustration
ya, spacers help a lot and keep the pipes stabilized while trying to crimp
You can also use the rubber part of your pliers to lightly crimp the ring in place then finish it off with your crimp tool. Some crimp tools also have a pre crimp feature as well.
You can lightly crimp the ri g with channel locks and it wont move do it under tubs all the time
The only down side I can see is that water Hammer arrestors have rubber diaphragms that eventually fail and you need to replace the unit, how would you access it? I'd think it would be better further down the line maybe in the basement where you can access it. As long as it's before the valve it will do its job of absorbing shock.
Built my house with this type of plumbing in 2003. I had one of the brass 90s burst one night luckily I was home. Over the last few years I have had about 12 fittings corrode and leak. I have been replacing with sharkbite fittings and it's not easy after the years of the pipe shifting and flexing from years of contractions. Do yourself a favor and go copper especially if you have more than one level. I can't imagine the nightmare another level would cause.
my house 2001 never a leak cheap fittings and type b likely What about manablock? seems like a good system
Did you find out out what caused the corrosion? I had a house I did about 10 years ago all his brass fitting (on the hot side corroded and leaked) but it was because he did not set his softener correctly and the salt was eating up the hot side and water heaters.
@@jeffreyplumber1975 Manablock system are the most wasteful use of water to use. Think about it, everytime you turn on the hot water you have to wait for the water to come from the manablock, so if you are in the master bath shaving and you manablock is in the garage on the other side of the house you have waste all that water to get to your sink to shave. Now you are done shaving and ready for a shower now you have to wait for all that water to come from the manablock again to heat up the shower, where as a trunk and branch system that water is already there.
@@jwblount7802 Well water. The brass fitting are really thin and susceptible to failure from corrosion from the simple minerals in well water. Bad product.
@@daddyfixit631 Got to be a bad batch of fittings because I probably got 1000's among 1000's of brass fittings on well water and not one call back because of that. Got to be more to it than just the water...
Good tutorial
REALLY NICE, THANK YOU.
Thank you 🙏🏼
Wow that was awesome!! Thanks bud!!💪
Hopefully it was helpful 👍🏼
When re-plumbing showers, do you usually stick with the same dimension of PEX B as the copper pipe? That is, when replacing 1/2” copper pipe, do you use 1/2” PEX B pipe? Or do you upsize to 3/4” PEX B to better match the inner diameters? I’ve seen different views on whether there is much of a difference between the two approaches on short pipe runs, but was wondering if you’ve done both and have any opinion. Great video!
I’d only upsize if I could have access to the 3/4” supplies - but water pressure should technically be the same with 1/2”
lois If its a tub shower DO NOT USE PEX FOR THE TUB SPOUT youll be busting out walls later or might be check manufacture specs Moen Delta or whoever makes the valve will state in instructions
@@jeffreyplumber1975 My application is for a shower only, but thanks for the heads up!
On a flow restricted fixture like a shower head, even 1/2” is more than sufficient. Especially for super short runs shown in the video. Also, upsizing would slow the arrival of hot water by more than 2X.
You have to use same diameter as your old galvanized pipe ?
Good advice, thank you..👍🏽👍🏽👌🏽🤠
thank you 👍🏼🔥
Thank you man
🙏🏼🙏🏼
I like Uponor fittings.
same here, PEX A is awesome, I’ll have a video about that system down the road - do you use the M12 expansion tool?
@@HomeRepairTutor DeWalt Expansion Tool.
excellent video. do you test the line for leaks before finishing the drywall ? also does the PEX pipe system can work for laundry lines? I prefer this method than the brass type of course
never seen a hammer arrest on a shower system... interesting. always check your go/nogo rotating it as sometimes crimp rings can warp into an oval shape. Nice video
You never seen them on a shower system because they are not needed. 🤣😂 this is so stupid. And he ran it in pex so then you have even less banging of the pipes. 😃😃
@@chrispino8249 I I ii I
What is the depth of your drop ear elbow for the shower arm from the stud face?
Pex tubing/ plumbing does not require water hammers ever. What exactly do you think would make any noise with plastic tubing? I've been plumbing since before pes ever existed.
Well done.
Thanks
Hi, great video. I'm hearing that switching a 1/2-inch copper pipe to pex B will cause water flow issues due to the pex fittings and could cause plumbing issues later. What is your thoughts? Tks for the input.
I love plumbing,,, im plumbing indonesia❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks You sir, it's helpfull
Awesome video! Can the hammer arrestors be installed upside down? My water source comes from the top.
Wanting to run pex ondef ground for outdoor water valve is 1/2 in ok or should i use 3/4 to 1 inch for better water pressure
great job and video! Just one point, I wouldnt wipe the flux off until after soldering/brazing; unless the flux manufacturer states todo so.
actually that was a really great tutorial format, quick and to the point
@@benbauer7016 thank you for your kindness and the feedback on flux
wont hurt a thing to wipe befor and after it cools
awesome vid! do you have to worry about any type of corrosive reaction between the galvanized screws and the brass fittings?
Great video I'm getting ready to swap out my tube for a shower unit it very confused on which crimper to buy What crimper did you use it looks perfect Thank you
thank you, I used SharkBite’s crimper for 1/2” PEX B 👍🏼
@@HomeRepairTutor awesome Thank you I'm going to subscribe to your channel look like great info👍
great video
thank you
Great video, love the fast forward! Wondering if it's important to secure the pex where it comes through studs, etc. I've seen this in other videos but hard to imagine there'd be enough movement to wear through the pex, but maybe over decades?
Matt we do want this to last decades and I dont mean maybe. its good prctice to install a trisulator slang name is butt plugs secures and eliminates hammering or abrasion. We all get in a hurry but little steps like this are differance between a system that works trouble free for decades and one that will make it past a one year warranty
What’s the difference between the copper rings with the red spacer on it and the copper rings without the red spacer? Is it just so you get consistent spacing and jam that red spacer up against the fitting?
I wanted to split off my 3/4 line to have the master bath on a separate zone. Can I split 1/2 from the 3/4 and run up a 8 ft wall directly to the fixture or do I have to run 3/4 up the wall?
Yes, 👍🏼
@@HomeRepairTutor so I can do either ? Does it matter if it’s 1/2 or 3/4 running up a wall or should I split the 1/2 closer to the fixture ?
The thing he is right about washing machines needing dishwashers a shower valve does not and there should be an access panel on the back of the wall for in case the hammer arrestor goes bad you need to be able to access them and that’s why I do not recommend the crimp ones use a half inch threaded pecks adapter to go to half inch hammer arrestors so if they have to be replaced they’re an easy replacement now you just made more work for the person who has to come back in and technically they will vibrate in the wall because there’s not enough support😮
How far back did you recess the 2 x 10 to put the control valve and how do you figure that out?
Thanks for the video! Is the "riser pipe" just 1/2 white pex?
any color pex at any point is okay. future plumbers following logic might not like you though. There is sometimes oxygen barrier needed for some heating applications. PEXa only systems do not work with PEXb pipe/tubing.
Are those Diaphramed air chambers? Is there a code where you are for them to be accessible for servicing? I have allways been taught to use copper for the riser peice for the shower head. Does pex slow down your shower pressure?
PEXa expansions should give you minutely more pressure, and PEXb fittings likely drops a very small bit. At this point very few local codes should require water hammer arresters (diaphragmed air chambers) for PEX and CPVC.
No way Man U are amazing
Thank you but there’s always room for improvement and I’d like to become better over time 🙏🏼
Good video. But going a little slower may help out some of us new guys. Its a lot for us to process. Thanks for the video
Go to settings and change the playback speed Your welcome
or use space to pause the video and watch it frame by frame unless you're old grandpa using old phone and can't figure out what's going on heh
Just use a shark bite next time going from copper to pex works great no need to solder then
If you use a 2x10 board to secure the mixing valve, at what depth do you have to set it so it will be at the appropriate depth for when the backer board and tile are done?
The black square plastic depth gauge (seen in video at 1:21 ), included with the valve, needs to be set so that the finished wall is within the width of that black plastic. His was a hair inside of the finished tile wall, which is usually close enough.
@@selmaave9145 yeah, that image of the black gauge is only two seconds long, much too quick!
Quick question, what are we doing with that bottom opening? Cap it?
Question fo you. What is that right hight for valve and shower Head installation
Heights are generally 38” to 48” for the valve based on NKBA recommendations and Shower heads depend on the user, but 82” to 84” is a good place to start
Thank you
thanks
Are water hammer arrestors required to be accessible?
they really should be cause they need to be replaced every 10 years.
Is the straight pipe to shower head ok for thermal expansion?
Thanks for all your videos. Super helpful. Do you know if arrestors are required in California?
thank you, it’s hard to know if local code requires it. Check with your local building department, normally they’re nice to work with
If your working with copper it's definitely a good idea if its Pex it probably not necessary ,but you can check out the local plumbing codes.
Sorry, dude, you can't say, "arrest", here in Kalifornia. You'll get labeled as a bad guy.
Can you use a shower valve with the bottom tub part even if you only
Have a shower? Like by just plugging the tub out.
What does the water hammer do ? What is its function ?
it absorbs the shock of water stopping suddenly when valves are turned off
What do you do if you are working in a space that doesn't allow for the use of the tool? (Can't open it wide enough). Also, can you connect new Pex to old Pex?
Can I use the red or blue pipe where you used the white "riser" pipe? What's the difference? Thanks in advance..
I noticed you are not using Shark Bite or any other commercial connectors other than crimping it to-is that a brass connector then?
Did u leave access for future service of the arrestors in the wall ?
an access panel can be added
Do you solder all the way around the pipes or just halfway?
Where do you find the pex valves? They stopped carrying them in the stores years ago. I had so many call backs for leaks while using threaded adapters, I went back to soldering all my shower and tub valves.
I buy all my valves from build.com, they have both PEX A and PEX B valves from Delta
Is there a rule of thumb on how to figure depth of the valve and height of valve / shower head?
there are a few recommendations set by Delta and the National Kitchen and Bath Association. Delta recommends this valve be set such that the plaster guard roughly within 1/4” of the finished wall, their directions vary for valves with integrated shut offs, so read the directions carefully. The height recommended by the NKBA is between 38” and 48” off the finished tile floor - it’s a wide range to suit the height of the user.
You can put it however high you want the shower head usually goes at like 75 in from the ground main thing to remember is the pressure builders he has on the mixing valve and if you dont sana use them then tie your lines back into eachother so the valve will build pressure eveenly
You have to check the directions that come with the fixture for the depth.
@@3807shawn Those are arrestors sparky, not pressure builders(?). They alleviate water hammer when you shut the faucet off. You can't tie your got and cold lines together
How will you access air hammers in future ??
Great video! What laser level do you use/recommend?
thank you, right now I’m using Huepar lasers and like their rechargeable USB ports
Someone needs to make a kit containing all of this stuff.
Great idea 💡
I worry about using pex in enclosed walls. Would mice be prone to eating it?
PE x pipe needs regular support to avoid stress to joints.
It should be 90 deg bend to the mixer rather than another concealed joints. The arrestor is over the top
I was thinking the same thing. It would be much nicer if you curved the pipe instead of more fittings.
Nice video, however I see a lot of the industry moving towards the uponor PexA for ease and flow, any comments on that?
Flow with type b Pex is not a issue if upsized one pipe size to within 6 foot of room plumbed. Reduce back to 1/2 inch at each juncture back into individual room with water. Also never use any fitting that reduces flow or causes a restriction due to inside diameter of a fitting being smaller then1/2inch ,on tub spouts, rest of connections on valve ok, never on tub spout or you won’t be happy. In other wards sweat or thread tub spout crimp rest of valve.
Is m18 milwaukee tool ok to use for crip the pex??
Wanting to build an outside shower is 1/2 pex the norm for this application?
Yes
Do you find that the water flow is restricted using these fittings?
No, as long as you have water pressure above 50 psi
I am on a well system and get no where near 50 psi currently have 1/2 copper that keep getting pin hole leaks I want to install pex to avoid the leaking but can not get straight answers to if the water flow will be restricted or not
Damnnnnn CLEAN.... 🤓
How many inches does the riser has to be between the shower head assembly and the valve?
There’s no guidance but normally 30-40” - it depends on the height of the main valve which is 38” to 45” off the floor for showers
How far back do I set the 2x10 inside the wall
Normally up against the drywall or the back of the 2x4 stud wall. But you still want to use the plaster guard to ensure the valve is at the correct depth
What does the white pipe in the middle do?
When you read the instructions by the manufacture, arresters are not required on PEX.