It doesn't really matter in plumbing and you are never going to see it unless you have a leak. My 50 year old house has copper piping bent all over the place from the initial install and it's never leaked.
Professional work , I like the flame protector , plus i have noticed that you need to clean the access flux to prevent green stain after a while and there are a little bit of difference between our materials in South Africa and overseas .
Wow thank you so much. Even answered the question I had with the type of copper needed. I have to rip out our shower and tub and there are a lot of areas I have no experience in such as sweating copper and tile work lol.
Tons of great info here - Thank You . It would be great if Delta provided a technical drawing showing the side view of an installed value with all pipe , stud and wall dimensions . But you've shown here how to measure how deep to install the valve relative to the studs . . Reading comments on line - Shower head height above the shower floor 72 to 78 " - when installing for a bath tub / shower , note there is min / max height between the valve and bath tub spout - for shower only , recommendations for the valve height range between 38 and 48 " from the shower pan floor . .
I’ve installed copper for 35 plus years. I thought the same. Going way back we hated PVC and thought it was garbage vs cast iron - wrong. I didn’t like Pex either at first but it’s pretty much all that is used in most places now. You have to have an open mind as technology and materials change. Think about it- we used lead in my early years in the trade too😂
@@flyingburritobro68 you're now comparing apples and oranges cast iron isn't even a thing and copper doesn't break down like pvc or pex and thin enough pvc allows pressure drop with allowing movement and same for pex movement equals pressure drop and I don't like low pressure
Do you typically air pressure test, prior to closing up and tiling? OR just turn on the water and check for leaks? How long do you watch for leaks before putting on the backerboard? Also, how to know if the solder will not fail, especially thru colder weather where the water pressures may increase? Trying to think thru how to be confident with the solder joints? I've soldered and looks good, holds water w/out leaking...but if I do in bathroom not sure how confident to be (& any testing that folks do) prior to closing up a wall? Great videos! Very well put together and concise!
@@HomeRepairTutor how do i check for leaks for my soldering for this faucet ? should i just connect the pieces? i wanna check before i install drywall cement board etc
Nice video. I would add inf on setting the distance of the main valve body with respect to finished surface, which is the irst step that needs to be right. Different tile thickness different grout thickness, different substrate thickness can make this a fail.
Any reason for recommending the more expensive type L copper? FYI, my 2004 home is completely plumbed with type L…and so far, two pin hole leaks in the type L. Not sure type of copper used is critical, exception being in some plumbing configurations and location other than a shower set up. Good video, though. Your close up of the black template box is about the best I’ve seen on these instructional vids, both in terms of the close up and angle of that alignment template , as well as use of the backerboard/tile test piece. Most vids just blow by this leaving a lot of first timers confused about what that sq blk template plate is suppose to line with.
Type L is higher quality (heavier, thicker). I have never seen it fail by itself. I install type L anywhere it's going to be concealed, because I hate opening finished walls. Cheap insurance.
Your wording made it sound like the Flux might be optional. It's not. Also, how are you going to get those water hammer arresters out after they fail in a year or two? If you are new to soldering, solder everything you can before installing, so you have an unobstructed view of your joints. I laid out my entire shower and then soldered it on a bench with the exception of the two connections to the water so I could closely examine my joints before install where they would be obstructed from view
Thanks for the video. This is definitely not for the beginners (LOL). I just wonder how many years does it take to develop the skills this guy has. I really want to learn how to solder properly but need some device so I can check if there's leak or not )). It's always a joy to watch how the professionals do the work.
Thank you, it just takes practice and knowing how to prep the pipes. You can buy a bunch of fittings and simply prep and solder over and over until you’re happy with your results
It's not difficult to do a pressure test after setting up your feed lines and the shower pipe, but before enclosing the wall space. The Delta faucet makes this easy, they include a plastic cover specifically for this and I've remodeled two of our showers with them. There's also an inexpensive pressure test tool - a shower test plug - that you screw straight into the shower drop ear elbow. It can be annoying if you have a leak, but it only takes a few minutes to reheat the joints, clean off the solder, re-flux, and re-solder. The hardest part? Running up and down the stairs to turn water off and on.
Soldering is easy and it's actually really hard to screw up if you follow the correct step. Looks up a few videos on soldering pipe from actual licensed plumbers (which this guy aint) to learn how to do it right.
If I may, his video is just showing what you see in front but when he heats up the pipe and applies the solder, the solder actually "travels" around the pipe. The Flux application helps with allowing the solder to travel. I hope that makes sense.
@@richardlaundreaux1374 You do need to make sure you are using enough solder to get all around the pip. The way he is "touching up" the other side of the pipe with the solder is incorrect. You should never need to do that because it will completely fill the gap if done correctly. There are some good videos on soldering out there if you can filter out all the useless DIYers making videos on subjects they don't even understand.
@@MAGAMAN Sometimes the capillary action is insufficient because the back of the fitting against the blocking doesn't get even heat. He should have soldered the valve body stub outs on a workbench, this way you can heat the fittings more evenly and visually confirm the solder flowed properly.
Great, detailed video. What kind of laser level did you use for this? I noticed a tripod in the corner of the video but can't exactly see the level. Thanks!
I am changing my shower stall plumbing from an old two handle to a Moen single handle valve and trim. Moen has a nice remodeling kit. My question is. The value that was sent to me is a four port posi temp. I do not have a tub so can I use the four port valve or should I use a three port valve. I realize I can cap the tub port but will that change performance of the four port valve. Thanks and very informative video.
I make my own air arresters. 3/4 inch x 18 inch cap on one end that come out of my tee. This what I have been using for 40 years of plumbing. Is there now a problem with making my air arresters this way. Thanks Tye
Only thing i would critique is when soldering, you should heat from the bottom, & apply from top/sides. Capillary action will seal the joint adequately. Great video
@@HomeRepairTutor and do they just sit in place as they came or do you need to tighten them in place? That's what I was mostly unsure about or what the point of the stop is in the first place any way
@@AveryHeilbron If the stops you are referring to are what I think they are, these are used so you can shut off the water to the valve body if you need to replace or clean out the valve. You can also use them to adjust the water pressure to the shower.
I forgot to take the stops out. Nothing appears to be leaking. But it makes me wonder if I shouldnt just replace the stops while i have easy access. Havent found a store that carries them though.
Lately I’ve been using a Huepar cross-line laser and like it. I’d visit their site and research an option. They aren’t a sponsor, just like their laser
Just screw on a cap. Delta got cheap a few years ago. We're doing a flip and got one each, the shower only valve was $5 cheaper than the competition. Went to install the the shower valve and found a 1/2" threaded hole outlet on the bottom of the valve. I call Delta and they inform me they don't include the brass plug. Well I have 1/2" copper caps but no more 1/2" copper male adapters. The tile guy is ready to start the backer board, so back to the Depot, a brass plug is $5 and they don't have one in stock. So much for saving $5 and time.
There are several versions for copper and pex as for shower only with threaded copper connections, most important may be to get one with internal valves required by some plumbing inspectors.
How can I test the hot and cold water coming out of the rough-in valve from the hot water tank? Should hot and cold water come out of the two (2) separate valve holes? What if water is only coming out of one valve hole but when the cartridge is installed the water mixes fine, but the pressure is low? Would a "low flow rough-in valve" cause low water pressure at the tub faucet? Thanks.
I would never install water hammer arresters in the wall. They have a limited life of a few years usually. Installing the screw on kind at the washing machine, bathroom and kitchen sink should be more than enough.
The guy just likes to show off his soldering skills and pretty joints(nothing wrong with pretty solder joints). This video was probably sponsored by a water hammer arrestor manufacturer. A shower valve doesn't create water hammer. Water hammer is a result of valve opening and closing very quickly like solenoid valves in appliances like washing machines and dishwashers.
Can copper type M be used on the valve? My old plumbing has type M all around and was wondering if I could just match what I currently have. Thanks for the video
You could, but you would need to have a shutoff at the showerhead and at the sprayer wand, otherwise water will flow simultaneously from both ends. Get a valve with an integrated diverter or a separate diverter at the outlet of this valve.
I have a Delta Foundations one handle valve faucet. Installed it and the water came out the shower with the tub faucet open. A plumber told me the valve is upside down. So turned it over and water came out more through the shower. Is it a bad valve? The shower pipe set up: 1/2" CPVC on the hot and cold. 1/2" CPVC on the tub faucet.1/2" Copper pipe on the shower. Is the CPVC smaller than the copper pipe causing the water pressure to go up to the shower? Or is it a bad valve?
The drop to the tub spout should be 1/2" copper or 3/4" CPVC. The 1/2" CPVC has the same nominal outside diameter as copper but the wall is thicker thus a smaller inside diameter. This happened to me once with a Moen valve, water would squirt out of the shower head when the valve was turned on, this was the first time I used pex for the drop to the spout and to the showerhead. On page six of the installation instructions for the valve it stated if using pex to go with 3/4" to the drop elbow. Had access to the back of the valve from the linen closet, unsoldered the 1/2" fitting male to 1/2" barb adapter and replaced the barbed pex drop elbow with a copper one and fixed the problem. I've installed dozens of the Moen valves over the years and always used copper. The manufacturers should better update their installation instructions now with the availability of the different piping options. Moen was aware of this issue, but they just amended their instructions on page six.
Methodical from start to finish, you didn't miss a thing... well done sir!
Thank you 🙏🏽
This helped me realize I could just solder the copper pipes to the valves without any special fittings.
Me too 😂😂😂
This is what youtube was ment to be. Outstanding!!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Not cat videos?
You're a good man for making everything straight and plum.
It doesn't really matter in plumbing and you are never going to see it unless you have a leak. My 50 year old house has copper piping bent all over the place from the initial install and it's never leaked.
All my videos are too long. This was perfect. Thank you for no ads.
I was unsure how deep to mount the valve…answered my question on the first minute!!! Thanks!!!
Great instructional video. Fast paced, no bullshit.
Wow,
it's hard to find a perfectionist now a days!
haha 😂 thank you, it’s not perfect 👍🏼
This video saved me a ton of time!
🔥🔥🔥
Professional work , I like the flame protector , plus i have noticed that you need to clean the access flux to prevent green stain after a while and there are a little bit of difference between our materials in South Africa and overseas .
Thank you for sharing really learned a lot of tips no one taught me when teaching me how to sweat pipe!
Nice short and sweet video. Nice clean work man.
This is a great tutorial. Thanks for posting.
🙏🏽
I’d love to buy this course to follow from start to finish
Thank you 🙏🏽 it’s available inside our Video Library, here’s the link homerepairtutor.com/platinum-membership/
This is a professional job. Nice and clean
Wow thank you so much. Even answered the question I had with the type of copper needed. I have to rip out our shower and tub and there are a lot of areas I have no experience in such as sweating copper and tile work lol.
Tons of great info here - Thank You . It would be great if Delta provided a technical drawing showing the side view of an installed value with all pipe , stud and wall dimensions .
But you've shown here how to measure how deep to install the valve relative to the studs .
.
Reading comments on line
- Shower head height above the shower floor 72 to 78 "
- when installing for a bath tub / shower , note there is min / max height between the valve and bath tub spout
- for shower only , recommendations for the valve height range between 38 and 48 " from the shower pan floor .
.
Nice step by step and product detail. These kind of videos are so helpful.
Thank you so much, it’s awesome to know there some helpful tips 👍🏼
He leaves out a lot of vital information on soldering pipe. I you try soldering after watching only this video, you are going to have problems.
Excellent video - all the best
excellent work. Top notch instruction on pipe soldering.
Now I love this! All hard pipe!! Solid pressure and longevity
I’ve installed copper for 35 plus years. I thought the same. Going way back we hated PVC and thought it was garbage vs cast iron - wrong. I didn’t like Pex either at first but it’s pretty much all that is used in most places now. You have to have an open mind as technology and materials change. Think about it- we used lead in my early years in the trade too😂
@@flyingburritobro68 you're now comparing apples and oranges cast iron isn't even a thing and copper doesn't break down like pvc or pex and thin enough pvc allows pressure drop with allowing movement and same for pex movement equals pressure drop and I don't like low pressure
@@flyingburritobro68 I would never replace copper with PEX. It's already had it's share of issues and will probably have more in the future.
Well done ! Thank you.
Good stuff wiping the Flux is key
Do you typically air pressure test, prior to closing up and tiling? OR just turn on the water and check for leaks? How long do you watch for leaks before putting on the backerboard? Also, how to know if the solder will not fail, especially thru colder weather where the water pressures may increase? Trying to think thru how to be confident with the solder joints? I've soldered and looks good, holds water w/out leaking...but if I do in bathroom not sure how confident to be (& any testing that folks do) prior to closing up a wall? Great videos! Very well put together and concise!
You are the best plumber I’ve met on RUclips so far! Thank you for your tutorial!
You haven't seen many plumbers on youtube. In fact, I doubt this guy is actually a plumber.
@@MAGAMAN how do you know?
Nice work, very clean and precise👍
thank you, far from perfect but hopefully the tips are helpful
The best job ever seen
Thank you 🙏🏼
I've been wanting to learn how to Sauder for awhile. Thanks for the Basics. 👍👍
thank you, hopefully there are some good soldering tips in the video - wiping away the flux prior to soldering helps a lot
Americans don't sound out the L.
Great video - it’s just what
I was looking for. Thanks for making it!
Thank you 🙏🏼
@@HomeRepairTutor how far apart do u need the lines??
@@HomeRepairTutor how do i check for leaks for my soldering for this faucet ? should i just connect the pieces? i wanna check before i install drywall cement board etc
What a great video thank you sir
Great video! thank you!
Beautiful work
Great video. Thanks
Nice Job Bub 👍 👌
🙏🏼🙏🏼
Great video and nice install.
Awesome job and advice
If you could have filmed how to install the rest of the faucet, it would have been great.
Wonderful information.
thank you Ted, appreciate your kindness 👍🏼
Great video. Great work.
Great Job😉👍🏽💧
Nice video. I would add inf on setting the distance of the main valve body with respect to finished surface, which is the irst step that needs to be right. Different tile thickness different grout thickness, different substrate thickness can make this a fail.
REALLY INTERESTING, THANK YOU.
Any reason for recommending the more expensive type L copper? FYI, my 2004 home is completely plumbed with type L…and so far, two pin hole leaks in the type L. Not sure type of copper used is critical, exception being in some plumbing configurations and location other than a shower set up. Good video, though. Your close up of the black template box is about the best I’ve seen on these instructional vids, both in terms of the close up and angle of that alignment template , as well as use of the backerboard/tile test piece. Most vids just blow by this leaving a lot of first timers confused about what that sq blk template plate is suppose to line with.
Type L is higher quality (heavier, thicker). I have never seen it fail by itself. I install type L anywhere it's going to be concealed, because I hate opening finished walls. Cheap insurance.
Nice install. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent Excellent
Hello excellent video does the same method works with moen and Kohler?
thank u good job
Very nice well done
can this be done without soldering. like with sharkbites?
Thanks
Great video
thank you
Great tutorial!
Thank you 👍🏼
Your wording made it sound like the Flux might be optional. It's not. Also, how are you going to get those water hammer arresters out after they fail in a year or two?
If you are new to soldering, solder everything you can before installing, so you have an unobstructed view of your joints. I laid out my entire shower and then soldered it on a bench with the exception of the two connections to the water so I could closely examine my joints before install where they would be obstructed from view
Thanks for the video. This is definitely not for the beginners (LOL). I just wonder how many years does it take to develop the skills this guy has. I really want to learn how to solder properly but need some device so I can check if there's leak or not )). It's always a joy to watch how the professionals do the work.
Thank you, it just takes practice and knowing how to prep the pipes. You can buy a bunch of fittings and simply prep and solder over and over until you’re happy with your results
Fantastic tutorial - never even thought of using the deburr. Thanks for the tips!
It's not difficult to do a pressure test after setting up your feed lines and the shower pipe, but before enclosing the wall space. The Delta faucet makes this easy, they include a plastic cover specifically for this and I've remodeled two of our showers with them. There's also an inexpensive pressure test tool - a shower test plug - that you screw straight into the shower drop ear elbow. It can be annoying if you have a leak, but it only takes a few minutes to reheat the joints, clean off the solder, re-flux, and re-solder. The hardest part? Running up and down the stairs to turn water off and on.
Soldering is easy and it's actually really hard to screw up if you follow the correct step. Looks up a few videos on soldering pipe from actual licensed plumbers (which this guy aint) to learn how to do it right.
@@MAGAMAN What do you see in his technique that is incorrect?
Good job 👍🏼
thank you
When you are soldering the pipes/fittings, are you getting all the way around or just the front/visible side?
If I may, his video is just showing what you see in front but when he heats up the pipe and applies the solder, the solder actually "travels" around the pipe. The Flux application helps with allowing the solder to travel. I hope that makes sense.
@@richardlaundreaux1374 You do need to make sure you are using enough solder to get all around the pip. The way he is "touching up" the other side of the pipe with the solder is incorrect. You should never need to do that because it will completely fill the gap if done correctly. There are some good videos on soldering out there if you can filter out all the useless DIYers making videos on subjects they don't even understand.
@@MAGAMAN Sometimes the capillary action is insufficient because the back of the fitting against the blocking doesn't get even heat. He should have soldered the valve body stub outs on a workbench, this way you can heat the fittings more evenly and visually confirm the solder flowed properly.
What cartridge is used for this valve with the four holes ?
Great, detailed video. What kind of laser level did you use for this? I noticed a tripod in the corner of the video but can't exactly see the level. Thanks!
I am changing my shower stall plumbing from an old two handle to a Moen single handle valve and trim. Moen has a nice remodeling kit. My question is. The value that was sent to me is a four port posi temp. I do not have a tub so can I use the four port valve or should I use a three port valve. I realize I can cap the tub port but will that change performance of the four port valve. Thanks and very informative video.
You’re the best
thank you 🙏🏼
Good job
Thank you 🙏🏼
I make my own air arresters. 3/4 inch x 18 inch cap on one end that come out of my tee. This what I have been using for 40 years of plumbing. Is there now a problem with making my air arresters this way. Thanks Tye
Only thing i would critique is when soldering, you should heat from the bottom, & apply from top/sides. Capillary action will seal the joint adequately. Great video
The next video can you show any tips for the service stops install. Thank you and great vids
The stops are integrated into the valve body, just screw in the stems and bonnets.
Great video, thank 👍
thanks 👍🏼
nice and clean, love it.
Nice job how many inches higth from the but tub?
Why the hammer at the pipe,is it necesary?
what do we do with the stops? I am unsure the point of them and how to make it water tight in my valve
if your valve has stops, take them out prior to soldering then replace them once the valve cools 👍🏼🔥
@@HomeRepairTutor and do they just sit in place as they came or do you need to tighten them in place? That's what I was mostly unsure about or what the point of the stop is in the first place any way
@@AveryHeilbron they slide in place then you have to tighten the locknut with pliers to keep it watertight
@@AveryHeilbron If the stops you are referring to are what I think they are, these are used so you can shut off the water to the valve body if you need to replace or clean out the valve. You can also use them to adjust the water pressure to the shower.
How come you dint melt that on the back of the fittings? I only saw you do it to the sides and the front?
Do you solder all the way around the pipes or just halfway?
On the bottom line which you cap off with copper, since it’s threaded, can you just use a basic cap and thread it?
Grasias por tu allude 110%
Thanks bro 🙏🙏👍
I forgot to take the stops out. Nothing appears to be leaking. But it makes me wonder if I shouldnt just replace the stops while i have easy access. Havent found a store that carries them though.
Hi excelente job could you please tell me the serial number of the delta please thanks
Thank you, it’s the R10000
Why did you use solder on thje valve fittings? I would compression fittings for that and protect the valve from getting hot.
What kind of laser level do you recommend for a diy guy?
Lately I’ve been using a Huepar cross-line laser and like it. I’d visit their site and research an option. They aren’t a sponsor, just like their laser
Great job. What percentage of silver include in solder soldering copper pipe and brass valve ?
I use pex but this is spot on for beginners..
Thank you 👍🏼🔥
@@HomeRepairTutor Of course brother it's very difficult to find real advice on RUclips
@@livebettervotered2748 appreciate your kindness and support 🙌🏼
Looks good, You can get only the shower valve for delta so don't have to be plugging the bottom spout outlet.
thank you, appreciate your kindness and pointing out that option. They do that for PEX A and PEX B, too, which is awesome
@@HomeRepairTutor Thanks for replly
Just screw on a cap. Delta got cheap a few years ago. We're doing a flip and got one each, the shower only valve was $5 cheaper than the competition. Went to install the the shower valve and found a 1/2" threaded hole outlet on the bottom of the valve. I call Delta and they inform me they don't include the brass plug. Well I have 1/2" copper caps but no more 1/2" copper male adapters. The tile guy is ready to start the backer board, so back to the Depot, a brass plug is $5 and they don't have one in stock. So much for saving $5 and time.
I live in California and this is the first time I hear about water hammer arrestors.
Can you clarify if this is necessary?
it just depends on your local code, so it’s best to check with the building inspectors
Question. Can you use this set up for shower only and not install tub outlet. Since you capped it off .
@@Steve-ht3ry yes
@@HomeRepairTutor thanks !!,😊
What is the name of the piece to which you screw the shower arm?
That’s a drop ear
Thank you@@HomeRepairTutor
Awesome 👏
Great tips, very informative video and fun to watch. Thanks 👍
Is it possible to get this valve without the bottom port?
thank you and yes, you can get a PEX version where they plug the port for you
@@HomeRepairTutor : awesome.
Thanks for the reply and have a great evening
There are several versions for copper and pex as for shower only with threaded copper connections, most important may be to get one with internal valves required by some plumbing inspectors.
@@786otto : great and useful comment. 👍 thanks for the tips
Great videos! Question: do I need my finished wall flush with the "raised" corners of the black templet or the lower part. Thank
will any type of trim fit this rough?
Technically yes if you’re using the Delta multi choice
How can I test the hot and cold water coming out of the rough-in valve from the hot water tank? Should hot and cold water come out of the two (2) separate valve holes? What if water is only coming out of one valve hole but when the cartridge is installed the water mixes fine, but the pressure is low? Would a "low flow rough-in valve" cause low water pressure at the tub faucet? Thanks.
good stuff
can you use the same water hammer arrester on kitchen sink, toilet, bathroom sink valves too? thanks
I would never install water hammer arresters in the wall. They have a limited life of a few years usually. Installing the screw on kind at the washing machine, bathroom and kitchen sink should be more than enough.
The guy just likes to show off his soldering skills and pretty joints(nothing wrong with pretty solder joints). This video was probably sponsored by a water hammer arrestor manufacturer. A shower valve doesn't create water hammer. Water hammer is a result of valve opening and closing very quickly like solenoid valves in appliances like washing machines and dishwashers.
Can copper type M be used on the valve? My old plumbing has type M all around and was wondering if I could just match what I currently have. Thanks for the video
I’d use Type L which is thicker
@@HomeRepairTutorThank you!
Can I use the tub spout outlet for hand shower instead of capping it ?
Ever run into issues installing a shower valve on 2x4 plumbing walls
Why do you need to add hammer arrest on a shower?.. I’m curious I’m in Canada and we don’t do that lol
Hi can you send me the flame mat protection thanks again Roman
that’s the Oatey Flame Protector pad, home stores carry them in the plumbing section or you can get it via Amazon 👍🏼
Are you really that incapable of looking this up for yourself?
Very informative, great video 👍
I have this same valve but want to add a shower wand to it. Can I use the capped bottom exit for a shower wand? Please let me know. Thanks
You could, but you would need to have a shutoff at the showerhead and at the sprayer wand, otherwise water will flow simultaneously from both ends. Get a valve with an integrated diverter or a separate diverter at the outlet of this valve.
My valve came with a cap. Do you recommend I use that and solder it or do you recommend I use your tips?
I recommend following the manufacturer directions, that’s the best way 👍🏼
@@HomeRepairTutor Nice answer. :)
I have a Delta Foundations one handle valve faucet. Installed it and the water came out the shower with the tub faucet open. A plumber told me the valve is upside down. So turned it over and water came out more through the shower. Is it a bad valve?
The shower pipe set up: 1/2" CPVC on the hot and cold. 1/2" CPVC on the tub faucet.1/2" Copper pipe on the shower.
Is the CPVC smaller than the copper pipe causing the water pressure to go up to the shower? Or is it a bad valve?
The drop to the tub spout should be 1/2" copper or 3/4" CPVC. The 1/2" CPVC has the same nominal outside diameter as copper but the wall is thicker thus a smaller inside diameter. This happened to me once with a Moen valve, water would squirt out of the shower head when the valve was turned on, this was the first time I used pex for the drop to the spout and to the showerhead. On page six of the installation instructions for the valve it stated if using pex to go with 3/4" to the drop elbow. Had access to the back of the valve from the linen closet, unsoldered the 1/2" fitting male to 1/2" barb adapter and replaced the barbed pex drop elbow with a copper one and fixed the problem. I've installed dozens of the Moen valves over the years and always used copper. The manufacturers should better update their installation instructions now with the availability of the different piping options. Moen was aware of this issue, but they just amended their instructions on page six.
That was it! It's working now
No excess panel for maintenance ?
If you do it right, no maintenance is needed. If you think you are going to need maintenance on your work, have someone else do it.