How To Kill A Lawn With Glyphosate or Round Up
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- Опубликовано: 4 ноя 2024
- If you need to kill a lawn to start over with new seed or landscaping then glyphosate is one of the best options we have available.
Although there are other methods most aren't as quick and thorough as applying a couple rounds of glyphosate during the growing season.
► Make sure to see the following video for my thoughts on why you might want to kill off your lawn in the first place: • Why Killing A Lawn And...
► I've also used herbicidal soap to kill off vegetation in a non-selective manner. You can see my experience doing that here: • Is Herbicidal Soap A G...
Most experienced enthusiasts and/or educators recommend the use of a dedicated Glyphosate tank because the product can damage lawns months later if residue is still in the tank.
I am using my primary lawn tank however because it's a battery sprayer that I trust to give me even flow and because I know how to clean my tank properly.
► The tank I use is a 3-gallon Petra Tools battery tank which you can see here: www.amazon.com...
If you don't like the idea of using a "good" tank to spray your glyphosate then just hit up your local big box store and buy a low cost pump sprayer - any brand will do. The low end pump sprayers are usually cheaper locally and the brand almost never matters much.
Most lawn-owners also think of RoundUp as the product tat kills everything but in actuality they are just a brand that is well known.
► In this video I used a 41% concentrate glyphosate product from High Yield, their Killzall product and it worked great and didn't cost me as much as RoundUp. You can price out the Killzall here if you aren't married to a product or brand already: shrsl.com/3hgt8
When using a foliar spray of any kind it's always a good idea to add a bit of surfactant into the tank to ensure better leaf coating. This additive is very low cost and feels unnecessary but I would never consider using a product like this without it. I'd much rather spray 2-3 times to kill a lawn then 4-5 times, it's faster, more efficient, less dangerous, and it costs less too.
► The surfactant I use can be priced out here: www.amazon.com...
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The best video I've seen on how to use a chemical for grass and weed removal. Could have mentioned storage, but otherwise, very thorough.
Great video. Once the lawn is completely killed what is your next step? Are you using a lawn thatcher to rake up all the dead stuff before seeding?
Hi there, thanks for the very informative video. I saw that you used a circular push blade mower and I’ve been wanting one. Does it cut well or is it a little choppy if one likes a close tight cut? What kind is it and I’ll try to find one. Thanks mate!
One day I'll do a kill all renovation. I'll be honest for some reason I'm "afraid" to do it. Mainly because of i don't have inground irrigation. I would have keep that hard to kill plant covering those rocks, helping it spred all over to cover them.
That flower which came up after the first application was a grape hyacinth. They grow in clusters out of underground bulbs. Probably didn't have plant tissue above ground during the first spray, but had a bulb coming out of dormancy.
Thank you so much for this video. I learned so much. I really enjoy the way you explain things. So many great tips. Takeaway, is follow instructions and be patient! 🙏🏽👍🏼🙌🏽
I have some paver next to a small grass lawn. I used glyphosate to kill weeds and grass in between the pavers, but the edge of the lawn closest to the pavers seems to be dying. What can I do?
Isn't glyphosate like super toxic long term???
I see glyphosate products are best used during the active growing season. Will it still work on dormant zoysia grass during colder temperatures? If not, any recommendations? Thanks!
You'd be unlikely to kill much (certainly not efficiently) without waking it up. In cooler weather like end of winter I tent the area with greenhouse plastic to get it to break dormancy early or what im doing now, tenting an area of my lawn that is almost going dormant in late fall to prolong growing for the sake of applying glyphosate. Otherwise this time of year excavation is the option although you may not even want to consider that due to costs and disruption during the off season.
In Aussie for Non Cultivated Areas
75ml to 200ml for 15ltrs over 100m2 (knapsack)
1ltr to 3ltrs for 100ltrs over 10,000m2 (boom sprayer, farming)
Annual plants (1 week), Perennial plants (2-3 weeks) between sprays.
Hope this helps
Thanks for the non-us numbers. I would have to take a good amount of time to find those numbers myself. 👊
I use to always double the rate when spraying winter weeds in dormant Bermuda lawns in late winter/early spring to make sure I got a max kill because it was so cheap, especially in the 2.5 gal jugs. I didn’t have the luxury to hit them a second time 10-14 days later since the Bermuda was coming out of dormancy. When sprayed over fert w/barricade it was always very effective and I rarely had to break out the Trimec or MSMA later in the spring. Just went to domyown to see what they’re charging now and was blown away by the price increase in just 7 or 8 yrs! I’d definitely be more conservative with it now if I were still in the biz spraying dozens of lawns.
Why not just let your weeds grow, it retains groundwater and looks better, you can even forage plants in your front lawn like clovers, sorrels, miners lettuce, mustards, etc. why kill it? City regulations? i don't understand.
@@animalconsultant7796 Surely you’re joking. If not then it’s because most people think weeds look bad.
@@jimshorts5970 I'm not joking at all. Weeds look fine. What planet are you from? I'm not going to sit here an educate you, you're naive. Weeds help retain groundwater, provide a diversity in our ecosystem, and actually can help prevent droughts, they help animals, and also if we needed a food supply we could FORAGE from our own front lawn if we didn't keep cutting or god forbid poisoning our grass. Learn about foraging wild edibles. You pay at the grocery store for spinach lettuce or kale? Guess what? Nature already has that, it's roots are deeper, it has more vitamins and minerals, and even tastes better. You ever eaten Miners Lettuce before? It's so much better than the other greens I just mentioned and is easier to grow. My point is you have no clue what you're talking about. Most human beings are just focused on short term stuff. Gain some knowledge before you come back and talk to me.
I killed my lawn because I had 85% weed vs. Bermuda. I live in a retirement community where we hire -- as a community -- lawncare guys. I don't own any lawncare machines and such and I'm left with a whole bunch of dead material and patches of exposed soil. Can you throw down peat moss or topsoil on top of the dead material and then seed? I had mistakenly bought cheap and slightly expensive seeds from Home Depot and the like w/o success [the Bermuda didn't match the existing Bermuda and the seed mix contained weeds along with some top soil containing weeds].
Watched several videos on killing grass with glyphosate but none (including this one) show what to do once the grass is dead. Will a rake break the dead grass free from the soil so that all the dead grass can be raked up? Do I need to use a rototiller to break up the soil and then rake up the dead grass/roots? (Or maybe a rototiller to mix the dead grass into the soil and then leave it to decompose? Grass shouldn't grow back since it's all daed, right?) Anyone know?
Someone suggested a bag lawnmower to collect the dead grass. 🤷🏽♀️ I had the same question. I’m in the process of trying to kill my St. Augustine grass. My husband is trying to stifle it with black tarp/plastic. If that doesn’t work we will have to apply glyphosate.
Looking forward to the clean up on the sprayer. Do you have any footage of the Bio Charken? Yard Mastery is sold out but wanted to see how you dealt with the larger particles. Thanks.
I'm probably going to put that cleanup video out late Spring since I'm still spraying glyphosate on that parkway strip and not needing it yet for my main lawn, between every video I publish I have snow on the ground and my soil temps are still low. Slow start to Spring around here. Anyway, my biocharken app was in this video a couple weeks ago: ruclips.net/video/Wh-Lq_wR97Y/видео.html I've asked Allyn if he plans on restocking and it sounds like he wants too but is hesitant because that product moves so slow. I hope he does restock. As for particle sizes they were pretty even, not perfectly even but close enough for me to not have any complains at all.
Is it too late to seed in Georgia ?
One other thing to add with Glyphosate. Studies show significant improvement in Glyphosate activity and effectiveness if applied midday, around 11am to around 2pm is the best time. On strong resistant plants it can be less than half as effective if the timing is off. Presumably this is because the plant is at it's highest activity and able to quickly take Glyphosate and distribute through the whole plant.
With grass it's probably not as big a deal, more so with stronger and larger plants does it probably make a difference.
Great tip, and it makes sense too. Tons of plants have daily cycles, we hand pollinate some of our garden plants in early mornings before flowers close up for the day every day, dandelions have the same daily rhythm too and most people can relate, they flower yellow in the morning and by late afternoon most flowers start closing up and eventually turn to seed. There has to be optimal times of the day for leaf tissue uptake for most of the weeds, it just makes sense. Your going to make me geek out over the next few weeks reading academic stuff on plants rhythms lol - Thanks Jake! 😃
Almost everywhere you can find the information that it's best to apply it in the early morning or evening because plants absorb it better at that time.
This is a nice neighborhood. What city is this filmed at?
Klamath Falls, OR
Those plants hanging onto the stone wall looks like dwarf carpet of stars. I’m seriously thinking about replacing my fescue lawn with that.
"Life finds a way" lol 🦖
Lol, I thought that little flower was so funny to see in the middle while cutting the brown back!
Unless you have a Scotts ProVista Lawn so I am told lol .
Lol, that stuffs weird 😆
Is that the Glyphosate proof grass? Sounds like easy management of weedy grass and other stuff, but I'd hate to figure out how to kill it.
There's a county that had Glyphosate proof grass test fields, the seeds got carried in the wind and now it's growing in ditches and clogging culverts and outcompeting native plants. Since there's no effective herbicide they really have no control except a few people that try to pull it out. Best it does is slow down the spread.
@@Jaker788 makes you wonder how/why you'd engineer a nearly indestructible plant and also let it go to seed without ensuring seed heads were sterile. 😒
You could have used a tiller and had that lawn ready for seed the next day.
You may be right but I would be shocked if some of the old stuff didn't start growing back had we done that. Regardless our area still isn't quite ready for seed, the ground is still to cold around here. Thanks for the comment, tilling is the right option for some people out there for sure.
Your killing everything why be consistant? Over spray does not matter And if you under spray no biggie cause your going to do it again Right?
I suppose it's my lack of desire to spray more than I have to. Each gallon of mixture covers 300 square feet so my 3 gallon tank can only cover 900 square feet at a time. If I'm over spraying parts of the lawn on accident then that means I'm underspraying other parts and will be more likely to have to do more rounds than I should have to do. If I'm accidentally underspraying and taking my mixture over 1200 feet when it was mixed for 900 then I'm also more likely to have to do extra unnecessary apps - if I go to heavy then I'm wasting product and will have to mix extra tanks. It just makes more sense to me to do everything as carefully as possible. My ultimate goal is seeding a new lawn here so I don't want it to take any longer than it has too.