Successfully replaced rear left wheel bearing hub right hand drive so nearside UK 🇬🇧 I was quite worried when replacing the part as had some problems with the seller saying it does not fit my vehicle and tried to sell me a mega expensive one instead so I did my own homework thanks to Red pill Garage tutorial again and cross checked the parts on lings honda now honda parts and also went to my local Honda dealer which is a 5 min walk I contacted the seller again and went ahead with the sale. when fitting the part I got a little worried at first as the old and new part seemed OK but when installing I thought I may have the wrong part and would have to put the old one back on I checked over again and turned the hub as the lugs on on side are slightly wider then put it in and tightened up the bolts tight everything came out superb after the refurbishment of the whole area with a brass wheel brush on a drill as lots of salt has corroded the dust shield . I did plan on doing both sides of the rear but then gave up as I took longer than I thought I'll leave for another day also was thinking at the same time to change the struts as I have some Mugen showa 5 way Adjustable suspension thanks for making this tutorial it has helped me a great deal to keep my 2005 accord running smooth again take care
Did you use a OEM hub/bearing assembly? My rear left is roaring (but has no play) so I'm going to be swapping it out in the next week or so wondering if I can go for a cheaper aftermarket assembly. Also can I get away without all the thread locker? I sussed out my rear brake job I did myself a few months back (searching for any culprits of the noise) and the bolts were still as tight as I initially installed them after 3000km driving. Thanks for the great video.
G'day VA, yes you can definitely go for an aftermarket assembly as I usually do, and you can get away without using thread locker, just check next service it is still tight.
Hi mate, good video. I need to replace my rear hub unit on 2008 accord euro here in Brissy, do you mind me asking where did you source the new hub unit from? Cheers
G'day Elijah, sometimes moving the calliper around, the cradle can move ever so slightly causing the brake pads and shims to fall out, then trying to re-align it all up can be fiddly if your in a hurry. Sometimes also you'll find the calliper cradle guide pins to be seized, or brake pads to be worn out or worn on a angle. I like to inspect everything closely along the way if I can, and replace things while its apart rather doing it again at a short distant future. If I was to tell the customer for "example" upon picking up of his car, that I found his brake pads are low and need replacing, they would say you should of replaced them while you worked in that area. This would cause an inconvenience to the customer as now they would have to re-book the car back in. Or even worst, if you didn't see that the brake pads are low and the customer runs out of brakes in the near future, they would simply say, why didn't you see that whilst working in that area. At the end of the day you can't drive around without brakes so it might as well get done whilst working in that area. It would work out to be "cheaper" for the customer whilst everything is pulled apart in that area, rather charging the full labour charge again which they won't be happy about. Thanks for asking hope you enjoyed the video.
G'day don08ngo, I can only speak for the Australian market, most after market (non genuine) auto parts stores will sell them like this. We do have the option to buy complete as you seen in the video or separate. I'm sure you can buy it complete in the USA, If not a mechanic can very easily press them together for you in next to no time, it is a quick and easy process that wouldn't be expensive. If you have never pressed a bearing and hub before, I recommend you get a Mechanic to do it for you as you can very easily damage the new wheel bearing if you press it in the wrong position. Just to give you an idea of what's involved to press a bearing and hub, check out Episode 10 (How To Replace a Front Wheel Bearing), and this way you'll know if you feel confident enough to do it yourself or not. Hope this helped.
Have the same exact issue with my 2003 Accord CL7 and I'm going to follow your instructions. Thanks for the tutorial.
You're welcome!
Good job
Thanks
Excellent clear video tutorial I really enjoyed watching and going to put in to practice myself
Glad it was helpful!
nice explanation ❤
Thank you 🙂
Successfully replaced rear left wheel bearing hub right hand drive so nearside UK 🇬🇧 I was quite worried when replacing the part as had some problems with the seller saying it does not fit my vehicle and tried to sell me a mega expensive one instead so I did my own homework thanks to Red pill Garage tutorial again and cross checked the parts on lings honda now honda parts and also went to my local Honda dealer which is a 5 min walk I contacted the seller again and went ahead with the sale. when fitting the part I got a little worried at first as the old and new part seemed OK but when installing I thought I may have the wrong part and would have to put the old one back on I checked over again and turned the hub as the lugs on on side are slightly wider then put it in and tightened up the bolts tight everything came out superb after the refurbishment of the whole area with a brass wheel brush on a drill as lots of salt has corroded the dust shield . I did plan on doing both sides of the rear but then gave up as I took longer than I thought I'll leave for another day also was thinking at the same time to change the struts as I have some Mugen showa 5 way Adjustable suspension thanks for making this tutorial it has helped me a great deal to keep my 2005 accord running smooth again take care
Thank you for the positive feed back, I'm glad it all worked out for you.
Did you use a OEM hub/bearing assembly? My rear left is roaring (but has no play) so I'm going to be swapping it out in the next week or so wondering if I can go for a cheaper aftermarket assembly.
Also can I get away without all the thread locker? I sussed out my rear brake job I did myself a few months back (searching for any culprits of the noise) and the bolts were still as tight as I initially installed them after 3000km driving.
Thanks for the great video.
G'day VA, yes you can definitely go for an aftermarket assembly as I usually do, and you can get away without using thread locker, just check next service it is still tight.
Hi mate, good video. I need to replace my rear hub unit on 2008 accord euro here in Brissy, do you mind me asking where did you source the new hub unit from? Cheers
G'day @mickeybowmeister1944, I believe it was Burson Auto Parts.
@@redpillgarage thanks Redpill, keep up the great tutorials. Cheers
This is so helpful, thank you so much!!
Can you not just remove the brake caliper bracket and keep the caliper intact rather than removing the pads as well?
Yes you can, but I rather not do it that way.
@@redpillgarage I mean no disrespect or anything when I ask I am genuinely curious. But, why is that? Why do you prefer to undo everything ?
G'day Elijah, sometimes moving the calliper around, the cradle can move ever so slightly causing the brake pads and shims to fall out, then trying to re-align it all up can be fiddly if your in a hurry. Sometimes also you'll find the calliper cradle guide pins to be seized, or brake pads to be worn out or worn on a angle. I like to inspect everything closely along the way if I can, and replace things while its apart rather doing it again at a short distant future. If I was to tell the customer for "example" upon picking up of his car, that I found his brake pads are low and need replacing, they would say you should of replaced them while you worked in that area. This would cause an inconvenience to the customer as now they would have to re-book the car back in. Or even worst, if you didn't see that the brake pads are low and the customer runs out of brakes in the near future, they would simply say, why didn't you see that whilst working in that area. At the end of the day you can't drive around without brakes so it might as well get done whilst working in that area. It would work out to be "cheaper" for the customer whilst everything is pulled apart in that area, rather charging the full labour charge again which they won't be happy about. Thanks for asking hope you enjoyed the video.
@@redpillgarage thank you for the insight! I appreciate you taking time out of your day to reply! Have a good day 👍
Nice
Thanks
I'm in the US. I have a honda accord LX 2.4cyl auto. Where do I buy the front wheel hub assembly already pressed?
G'day don08ngo, I can only speak for the Australian market, most after market (non genuine) auto parts stores will sell them like this. We do have the option to buy complete as you seen in the video or separate. I'm sure you can buy it complete in the USA, If not a mechanic can very easily press them together for you in next to no time, it is a quick and easy process that wouldn't be expensive. If you have never pressed a bearing and hub before, I recommend you get a Mechanic to do it for you as you can very easily damage the new wheel bearing if you press it in the wrong position. Just to give you an idea of what's involved to press a bearing and hub, check out Episode 10 (How To Replace a Front Wheel Bearing), and this way you'll know if you feel confident enough to do it yourself or not. Hope this helped.
@@redpillgarage cool. I think I will have the mechanic to do it. I realized the video is for the rear. The front is more challenging.
Is this front or back wheel?
It is the back wheel.