Видео

No, it's not a hybrid

No need, just replace it in the service when it's due.

Thank you ​@@redpillgarage

@@cranedriver5467 Your welcome

You're welcome!

Yes I did. Thank you.

G’day @moethedeaf2746, (1) for your information, as stated on the WD-40 website. (quote) “Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal” (end quote). Yes, I “always” clean the studs/lug nuts with a wheel hub cleaning kit as shown in some of my video’s. On this particular Corolla it was done on a previous repair, that’s why you didn’t see it performed. Maybe you should check those videos to see if that standard of cleaning is good enough. Corrosion and rust are the most frequent culprit behind stuck lug nuts. Exposure to moisture, road salts, and other environmental elements can lead to the formation of rust, effectively welding the lug nut to the stud. On the rare occasion I’ve had customer’s refuse to pay for wheel stud/lug nut replacement because I had to forcibly remove them to perform the work on the car that had to be done at the time. I’m not going to waste time and argue with a customer for a few dollars. Most customers understand and just pay for it. I don't like my lug nut threads dry/rusted and that grab/go/grab/go feel whether you're torquing or losing lug nuts. This 100% causes wrong torque setting that I’ve actually seen over the years where Mechanics have broken wheel studs. Do you know why people like yourself say not to use lube on wheel studs? Because if there is a liquid in the lug nut, as it is tightened down the liquid will “not compress” and hold torque for a while, then it slowly leaks out and the nut will loosen up. No automobile manufacturer or wheel/tyre supplier recommends the application of grease or anti-seize (different to WD-40) on wheel studs as it can directly affect torque values when torquing wheel nuts down to recommended specifications. In most cases, it leads to over torquing and the potential of a wheel stud breaking, I think this is what you interoperate. But WD-40 should be applied to wheel studs unless OEM service information states otherwise. Basically, when torquing a wheel studs/lug nuts, the torque does not indicate clamping force. It indicates the resistance to overcome friction. WD-40 is “light weight” in comparison to greases and oil. This is where I believe the confusion lies with many people. If you can’t screw on the stud/lug nuts by hand then your torque setting won’t be accurate. Just so you know, a captive wheel nut has at least 2mm of unused threads at the base of the nut to prevent the stud from bottoming out or hydraulic locking, causing wrong torque application. Also manufactures use a coating so that the stud/lug nuts don’t rust in transport or on the shelf. This only lasts as a one-time use, is that a lubricant also? In the 35 years (and probably another 35 years of over-time to add) of being a Motor Mechanic, I’ve never ever once had a problem with wheel lug nuts coming loose/breaking using WD-40. (2) At the time of making the video back in 2021 my Toyota specs did not give me any temp settings which I questioned at the time, and was told the time spent running through the gears would bring the temp up to specs. I know Toyota have updated their specifications since then, I think it is now around 37 degrees Celsius of memory, I would have to confirm this to be sure. In the video I did not show the repetitive steps in the top procedure as I didn’t want the video to get boring, but I “clearly explained “on how many times you would have to keep re-checking the level until it was spot on, you obviously didn't hear that. This would cause the oil temp to meet Toyota re-fill procedure. Also, it is common in our industry to put an extra 250mls or so more oil than what is specified by Toyota and that’s what I actually do on all CVT’s. Every single time, I’ve serviced a brand-new car with a CVT it always needs a top up. I did not show the extra oil going into the trany as it is not specified by Toyota to do this. But this is what all transmission specialist do as it is common practice. Lastly, and no you will "not" have an overflow problem. Hope this helped, and thank you for watching.

@@redpillgarage well explained

@@gfella1 Thank you

@@redpillgarage I didn't know that, you learn something every day. Good video very detailed.

@@joehenderson1969 Thank you

Thank you too!

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you.

G'day, at the time about over 3-4 years ago that's what Toyota specified. Yes you can also do the final fill accordingly to temperature specifications. Temperature refill is mostly used these days.

I love you too 😘

G'day, I believe that they're different. I've never worked on one. I have heard horror stories that things can easily get damaged, like cracked batteries and breaking plastic components. One of my friends that owns a large transmission workshop won't even touch a hybrid cvt, he sends them to the dealer. They are just to risky to work on according to him, and that's coming from a guy that rebuilds transmission's every day.

Thank you.

G'day, in the video it has a K313 trany, I believe yours has a K120 trany, so it will be different.

G'day, according to Toyota Australia, never needs serving. But they do mention every 40,000 kms service, to perform a "Inspection, correct or adjust as necessary" are their exact words. As common sense tells us nothing will last forever. This is clever marketing, reducing the cost of serving whilst under the warranty period, after that, they wouldn't care if your trany failed. To prevent this from happening any honest Mechanic would tell you to get your trany serviced every 50,000 kms. If you use your car under what they call "severe driving conditions" for example towing, you may need to service it earlier. Hope this helps.

@@redpillgarage thanks!

@@samuelgrieco2572 your welcome

G'day, at that time over 3 years ago that's what the Toyota specification recommended. It maybe different now. I just followed the specification exactly. One thing I personally do different as do most Mechanics is I add an extra 250mls or so more than what Toyota specifies. This is common practice in our industry. Thank you.

G'day @FIVESTARPOKEMON, you can get away with it, but its best to replace them. What you'll find is that you will have to tighten them a bit more as the aluminium gasket washer is already partially crushed from the last time it was tightened. Once you've tighten them both, just check for any leaks after a test drive. If it's okay then you can leave them alone till next trany service and replace them then. Thank you.

@@redpillgarage Thanks so much for the quick reply and detailed answer!

@@FIVESTARPOKEMON you're welcome

G'day @alejandraherrera8530, It seems that you must of accidently separated the steering shaft when lowering it. Don't know if your car is fitted with a Yaw sensor or not. You're probably have to re-align the steering shaft again unfortunately by starting all over again to prevent clock-spring failure (clock spring sits behind the air bag in the steering wheel). If it was a older car pre-airbag it would be a 5 minute job as you could simply pull off the steering wheel only and re-align it on the steering shaft splines. Just a quick tip also, when attempting to re-align the steering shaft, use a permanent marker as a starting point so you don't cover the same ground twice. Hope this helps and thank for watching the video.

How do I make sure the steering shaft is aligned?

@@alejandraherrera8530 unfortunately it will be trial and error. Estimate the angle of the steering wheel towards how much you need to turn it back to the left. There is no easy solution sorry.

You're welcome 😊

Thank you.

G'day @macditty, I currently don't have the torque settings for the pan bolts. I prefer not to torque pan bolts up as I have found over the years that it has caused oil leaks as they are not tight enough. If you decide to torque the pan bolts up, it will only work with a genuine Toyota gasket only. If you are going to use a non genuine gasket you can't use the Toyota torque setting as you'll cause a oil leak by damaging the gasket (if it's not a metal gasket). You maybe able to Google the torque settings. Hope this helps.

Lol

Your welcome! 👍If you decide to perform the service, add an extra 250mls/quarter of a litre on top of what is specified. I did not show this in the video as its not part of Toyota specifications, but it is common practice for us Mechanics to add a bit extra as to prevent any over heating issues or settling over time. Better to have a bit more than not enough.

@@redpillgarage Yeah, Now that i have done it i am thankfull for your help and i added the extra you mentioned thank you for helping me again🤍

G'day @macditty, that sounds cheap I would ask if 100% of the oil, filter, and gasket are going to be replaced in writing (quote on paper). You can also get a second opinion from a trany specialist in your area. Prices do vary from area to area.

@@redpillgarage the Toyota dealership said that it’s just a fluid replacement, then tried to tell me that there is no filter and they don’t drop the pan at all, so I don’t think they do anything close to this. There is one guy that quoted me about $380 for the filter and dropping the pan. Does the filter absolutely need changed at 60k?

@@Macdiz It's your call. If you want it done properly then change the filter. If your budget doesn't allow it, you can get away with it. Just keep in mind you'll be mixing a small quantity of old trans fluid and fine metal particles at the filter with the new oil. If you remember in the video when I partially dropped the filter about 1/4Ltr poured out and when I wiped the filter you can see very fine metal particles. Those particles will eventually mix with the clean fluid causing premature wear over time. The car in the video roughly had done about 50,000kms I can't remember exactly as it was about 3 years ago. It kinda defeats the purpose of performing the trany service. Like I said before you can get away with it, Toyota are willing just to replace the oil only, like you said. And these guys are supposed to be the experts lol. The reason they told you that there is no filter because it's much more time-consuming to perform the trany service. They just want to make a quick buck and get you out the door. So for 10 minutes of a partial drain of oil they charge $199.00 they definitely don't deserve your business.

@@redpillgarage I’ve done my DSG on my MK6 Jetta TDI. I feel like I could do this so I’ll probably give it a shot.

@@Macdiz 👍

Glad it was helpful!

👍

G'day @jonmo2694, if your readings are fluctuating sounds like a bad contact. Try holding the leads steady on the contacts and you'll find that it won't fluctuate anymore.

To test the wire harness watch from 3:45

​​@@redpillgarageMy readings on the diode continuity setting goes from 1600 to 1200 and 1300 back and forth each time I touch it, is that bad?Also my voltage has a 250 and 200 setting, my reading was 10 on one and 4 something on the other setting

@@jonmo2694 Did you get a beeping noise from your voltage meter when checking continuity? I'm assuming the readings you got tells me that there is no open circuit. I don't know what your voltage meter is set at but if your getting close to 5 volts it tells me it is okay. If you're getting 10 volts you have a problem. To be sure you need to find the specifications for that circuit. Just make sure your voltage meter is set to auto.

​​​@@redpillgarageNo beeps, I bought a cheap meter.My fans don't kick on unless I turn the air on when I get into town at low speeds.My temp will climb to halfway if I don't turn my air on.Maybe I will have to buy the OEM harness and ECT sensor? This is my second duralast sensor I replaced. I do know my coolant was low again so air got in, I had to replace the upper coolant hose.Dont know why the sensor isn't kicking on the fans when the temp starts climbing.I had to replace the blower motor as well as the fuse last year.Wonder if there is any connection to that?

Depends where you get the specs from. Holden use degrees and Nm. Over the years I've noticed different specs. Most Mechanics use Loctite and hit it with an impact gun. Using Loctite, will prevent it from coming loose.

Used blue Loctite. Speced to 220 and I’ve had no issues! Thank you for this video!

@@kyletyra6257 Your welcome.

Unfortunately I haven't done a video yet on this model, maybe as they get a little older.

You're welcome. Because you have the Copper gasket you "won't" need anything else. Some of these sensors that have a tappered thread (no gasket) you can add a sealant like Stag which is also used on engine Welch plugs. So in your case because you have the Copper gasket that's all you need.

G'day @justtryingtohelp874 you run the risk of the fluid level being too low causing the trany to prematurely wear out from over-heating from low oil level. Also keep in mind that there's a chance you can have a slightly low oil level before draining the old oil into you measuring container. Almost every service I've done on a new car with a CVT they always need a top up. Personally I wouldn't take the risk as these CVT cost many thousands of dollars to replace.

Thank you so much! Yes it need a quart more then I toke out. Thank you for your help!

@@justtryingtohelp874 you're welcome!

G'day @brettaitken2542, At the time of filming about 3 years ago that was the re-fill procedure with no temp specs ( going through the gears would bring the temp up ). Now Toyota recommends between 33-45 degrees Celsius. Yes, you can put an extra 250ml on top of what is specified.

Great thanks so much! Appreciate the feedback and the amazing videos!

Glad it was helpful!

1:50

Thank u

@@justtryingtohelp874 You're welcome

G'day @nenadkomljenovic3017, answer to your first question, I recommend 50,000kms maybe earlier if driven hard or extreme driving conditions. Yes most times I do replace all parts including the filter. If the car is driven in a stress free environment and your on a tight budget, then you can skip the filter change until the next trany service. Next, don't worry about how much oil you pour into the re-fill/FE plug hole, just pour it in until it comes out from the over-flow plug hole ( "do not" pour in your 7.9 quarts in one go, it was not designed to take that in one shot ). So to put it as simple as possible, just keep repeating that same step ( including running through the gears ) until you get a constant stream of oil at the end like I did. This step will have to be repeated 3-4 times until "finally" the oil keeps pouring out ( I think this is where you are getting confused because its repetitive and I didn't film repeating the same steps over and over again as it would of been too boring and the video too long ). Don't worry you will not cause any damage to your trany. For this to happen you have to run it low on oil, thats the only way you'll damage the trany. Just a couple of tips before I finish up, when you are doing the trany service, have your phone close by, so you can watch each step and pause the video until you completed that step. 2nd when you are completely finished with all the steps and the oil is finalised, I want you to put an extra 250-350mls approx. more than what is specified. This is to make sure you have a bit more oil that is required, this is playing it safe. I did not mention this in the video as its not part of the Toyota Specifications, but it is common practice amongst Mechanics. Just take your time and strictly follow my video and you'll get it 100% right. Hope this helps and thank you for watching my video.

any response? Please let me know @redpillgarage

G'day @nenadkomljenovic3017, answer to your first question, I recommend 50,000kms maybe earlier if driven hard or extreme driving conditions. Yes most times I do replace all parts including the filter. If the car is driven in a stress free environment and your on a tight budget, then you can skip the filter change until the next trany service. Next, don't worry about how much oil you pour into the re-fill/FE plug hole, just pour it in until it comes out from the over-flow plug hole ( "do not" pour in your 7.9 quarts in one go, it was not designed to take that in one shot ). So to put it as simple as possible, just keep repeating that same step ( including running through the gears ) until you get a constant stream of oil at the end like I did. This step will have to be repeated 3-4 times until "finally" the oil keeps pouring out ( I think this is where you are getting confused because its repetitive and I didn't film repeating the same steps over and over again as it would of been too boring and the video too long ). Don't worry you will not cause any damage to your trany. For this to happen you have to run it low on oil, thats the only way you'll damage the trany. Just a couple of tips before I finish up, when you are doing the trany service, have your phone close by, so you can watch each step and pause the video until you completed that step. 2nd when you are completely finished with all the steps and the oil is finalised, I want you to put an extra 250-350mls approx. more than what is specified. This is to make sure you have a bit more oil that is required, this is playing it safe. I did not mention this in the video as its not part of the Toyota Specifications, but it is common practice amongst Mechanics. Just take your time and strictly follow my video and you'll get it 100% right. Hope this helps and thank you for watching my video.

I've responded twice ​@@nenadkomljenovic3017

@@redpillgarage How much is 50,000kms in miles? Also how many quarts of oil should I pour into the transmission in those 2-3 intervals if I have a total of 7.9 quarts? Thank you

G'day @mohammadrezajolani1503, the trans code for the Corolla is a K313. If your lexus has the same code it will be a similar procedure, best to check first to be safe.

G'day @natelopez4002, you're welcome! It's probably best if you can re-align the splines on the two steering shafts, my guess is you accidentally separated the steering shafts and not actually removed the steering wheel as you mentioned. If you did remove the steering wheel from the steering column, you can only remove it and refit until you get it straight again (that's the easy part). I'm unsure if your model is fitted with any Yaw sensors that might bring up warning lights. I recommend that you backtrack the job until you get it right. Just a quick tip: You may want to use a couple of different coloured markers to map out your positions on the steering shafts so you do not have to go over something you've already covered. Unfortunately without me seeing the car, there's no safe quick fix. If it was an older car pre-airbag era the easy way is to pull off the steering wheel and reposition it straight, usually a 5-minute job. Hope this helps.

Thank you so much for your reply. Yes I separated the steering shaft. I'm going to try and realign it. Thanks again.

@@natelopez4002 Your welcome

G'day @salvadorgomez9803, you can watch this video How To Flush Coolant. ruclips.net/video/NMkL3Wo4Cyc/видео.htmlsi=iXjLLTYc0WpMioN4

G'day @salvadorgomez9803, Ok I will look into it, thank you.

G'day @marcosgarrido2686, have a look at 1:50 time in the video and then convert to quarters. Just a quick tip also, once you have completed the trany service, just add an extra 250mls on top of what is specified in the video. thank you.

Thank you! Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed it!

G'day @ericacosta2335, it is risky at that mileage. If you decide to do it just make sure you keep all the old oil in a clean container. If the trany was to play up you would have to remove all the new oil and re-use the old oil again.

Do you suggest changing the filter and re úse the oil? Thanks in advance

Yes I would just in case. So in other words if the trany was to play up just put the old oil and filter back in the trany and it should go back to normal. @@ericacosta2335

G'day @samuelcarvalho3691, at the time of making the video back in 2021 my Toyota specs did not give me any temp settings which I questioned at the time, and was told the time spent running through the gears would bring the temp up to specs. What I do with every CVT Trans service is always add between 250mls to 500mls extra than what the manufacturer specifies. This is common practice in the industry because lets face it the dealers are constantly publishing recalls, they still can't get it right. Just to give you an example, every new car that I've serviced ( 1st log book service ) with a CVT Trany I've always had to top up the level once set at correct temp specs. Also our Data is always going through updates where they make corrections, it can be really frustrating. The Dealers never checks the trans oil level. I've had new customers come to me to check their CVT oil level because the Dealer won't do it in the service. Yes you are correct trans oil final top is checked at the correct temp settings.

Thank you for the question. I would go with option 1, but if your trany has never been serviced and the oil is burnt black, this option could be risky as it may disturb/dislodge any large dirt particles that could float around and cause a problem. You've probably heard that saying if its not broke don't fix it. Then option 3 sounds better. If the oil isn't burnt then option 1 is good to go. So you'll have get a sample of the oil onto a clean piece of paper. Just remove the fill plug on the side of the trany and get a clean piece of long wire like an old coat hanger that you can cut a piece off the long side and use that to get a sample of oil. Hope this helped.

Thank you

Glad it was helpful!

It sure is

G'day @waltermauricioherrerasanch841, that is correct, you will need to get the temp specs way out for that to happen, its like saying how long is a piece of string lol. What I personally do is add an extra 250mls to 500 mls more to be safe, even though the specs doesn't mention this but this is what most Mechanics do. By adding a small amount of fluid is perfectly safe to do. When I made this video approx. 2 and half years ago there was no temp specs, but now that has changed. Thank you.