Terrific video mate. Followed instructions step by step and got it done. Took most of the day, much swearing and multiple cuts and lost a bit of blood haha. Hardest part was getting the single bolt in at the back of the column. Found out the hard way that you can't put the two nuts on first. Thanks again!
Hi, just wanted to say thanks for this detailed video! I was able to change my own coupler (I did it over 2 days because I got too sore and angry!). The steering is such a pain to get back up, definitely need 2 people, but other than that, easy enough to follow. Thanks heaps!
@@redpillgarage It did! Although I spoke too soon, my steering ended up being misaligned slightly to the left. The steering wheel separated from the back portion when putting the coupler back. We slid the steering back on and no lights/error messages when restarting the car so assuming no damage to the clock spring. Will try again tomorrow and pull it apart to try to realign 👍
Hey mate just wanted to say thanks for this awesome video It only took 4 hours from start to finish very detailed video I hope you keep making videos like this
Cheers from Los Angeles. Thank you for the video! Took me about forever with sweat and blood (pulled skin on my finger while removing power steering controller) but it got fixed! Also, thank you for providing what tools to use, it cut down on figuring out what size to use.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for your comment. It does look complicated, but it actually isn't , if you have the basic tools as I show in the video you can't go wrong. If you do have second thoughts about doing it, just make sure you play the video whilst your working on it so you can STRICTLY follow step-by-step.
You can't put the 2 nuts on below the steering wheel first, you have the hold up and tilt the steering wheel at an angle to slide the holes for the long bolt first. It's a major pain
Hi there! First and foremost great video, this video is funny and helpful. Love the images on the side. However, my wheel seems to be misaligned to the right, any tips? Help please 🙏🏼
G'day @alejandraherrera8530, It seems that you must of accidently separated the steering shaft when lowering it. Don't know if your car is fitted with a Yaw sensor or not. You're probably have to re-align the steering shaft again unfortunately by starting all over again to prevent clock-spring failure (clock spring sits behind the air bag in the steering wheel). If it was a older car pre-airbag it would be a 5 minute job as you could simply pull off the steering wheel only and re-align it on the steering shaft splines. Just a quick tip also, when attempting to re-align the steering shaft, use a permanent marker as a starting point so you don't cover the same ground twice. Hope this helps and thank for watching the video.
@@alejandraherrera8530 unfortunately it will be trial and error. Estimate the angle of the steering wheel towards how much you need to turn it back to the left. There is no easy solution sorry.
Thanks so much for the tutorial, i accidentally pulled out my steering wheel whille installing back on. I put every thing back together but my steering wheel is now driving slightly left. Any suggestions? Any one?
G'day @natelopez4002, you're welcome! It's probably best if you can re-align the splines on the two steering shafts, my guess is you accidentally separated the steering shafts and not actually removed the steering wheel as you mentioned. If you did remove the steering wheel from the steering column, you can only remove it and refit until you get it straight again (that's the easy part). I'm unsure if your model is fitted with any Yaw sensors that might bring up warning lights. I recommend that you backtrack the job until you get it right. Just a quick tip: You may want to use a couple of different coloured markers to map out your positions on the steering shafts so you do not have to go over something you've already covered. Unfortunately without me seeing the car, there's no safe quick fix. If it was an older car pre-airbag era the easy way is to pull off the steering wheel and reposition it straight, usually a 5-minute job. Hope this helps.
I’ve been wrenching for a while so I got no problem doing the work the only question I have is if this might cause my air bad light on the dash to turn on. So I can get a scan tool
Gday, your air bag light wont come on because your not tampering with the air bag circuit. Remove the battery ground cable as I did in the video before starting the job. I suggest that you watch the video in small increments as your doing the repair step by step, and you wont have a problem just take your time and follow the video.
G'day @tylerjohnson3894, disconnect the ground/earth cable from the battery just like in the video ( make sure keys are removed from ignition first) and let it sit for 15 minutes then re-connect. Or the light may go out after 100 kms of driving. If both steps don't work you can buy a code reader for about $30.00 and just delete the code. If you followed all the steps in my video 100% you have nothing to worry about. Hope this helps.
@@redpillgarage How do I find the code? I have a cheap $60 OBD scanner from Amazon, not one of those fancy shop OBD scanners. But if a $30 one can do the trick, I’m trying to figure out how can I find the code.
I tried to do this and accidentally disconnected the steering wheel from the back half when trying to mount it back up. Was able to put everything back together but not my steering wheel is unaligned, the ESC light came on, and the engine has an elongated beep when it turns on. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Hi, It's possible that you may have broken the clock spring (Google image "clock spring") behind the steering wheel. if the clock spring has turned and not centralised when re-fitting the steering wheel this can happen, they have very thin wires built inside and can break very easily if stretched. If the clock spring is broken, the check engine light will come on and possibly others (always disconnect battery to prevent air bag deployment). The only way to find what fault code it is, unfortunately you'll have to buy a code reader/scan tool. As you've already discovered there is no need to remove the steering wheel. I don't know your level of experience, but you'll have back track your work "patiently" until you get it lined up and straight, unfortunately it's the only way. Then take it to a Mechanic if you don't have access to a code reader/scan tool, so they can sort out the other half of the problem. Just make sure if you decide to take it to a Mechanic that you tell them exactly what you've done, so this way they don't waste time searching too long, this way you'll save money on diagnostic/labour charges. Other than that without me seeing the car myself, I cannot make a proper diagnosis, I don't want to send you down the wrong path. Hope this helps.
Hi Scott, I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean dropping the column down? Or unlocking the steering wheel by inserting and turning the ignition key. Or push the ignition button to start, make sure you press the brake pedal. Happy to help if you need it.
G'day @user-mq1pn3en4h. I'm guessing this problem occurred after you replaced the coupling. It could be something as simple as a dirty or corroded electrical connection. First thing check your fuses and your battery is fully charged (I hope you removed the ground cable from the battery before you started the repair). Next step you'll have to re-trace all your work, it sounds like you could have forgotten to plug in the wiring connector to the electric motor or the connectors to the motor-driven power steering controller (the computer with all the wiring connectors PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR WITH THE BLUE LOCKING CLIP it may be damaged), take your time tracing everything back so you don't miss anything. If you have found any wiring connectors unplugged and the EPS light is still on after you've plugged the connector back in, you can disconnect the earth/ground cable from the battery for 10 minutes or so then reconnect it or drive the car for approx. 100kms and the light should go out (I'm assuming you don't have a high-end scan tool to clear the fault code or DTC). On the other hand, if you have absolutely confirmed 100% that all the electricals are plugged in, (without me seeing the car for myself to diagnose) you've probably accidentally damaged either the motor-driven power steering controller or the electric motor. To test these components you will need a scan tool more than likely a high-end one to do in-depth testing. Then the other problem you'll probably face is doing a re-set and calibration if you have to replace these components (worst case scenario). Just make sure that ALL the electrical plug connectors are PUSHED IN all the way, if not you may have bent one of the electrical pins, they are very thin and easy to bend if you push any of the electrical connectors on a slight angle. Like I said just take your time to go over the work performed don't assume it's all okay, you can very easily miss something with all those wires everywhere. Just one more thing, your probably not going to like this one, if you have left no stone un-turned and you decide to go down the path of ripping it apart again, remove the electric motor that you previously removed, but this time, bench test it by connecting a 12 volt power supply directly to the motor to see if the motor is working. If It's okay there's a chance that the motor-driven power steering controller has failed (must confirm with a high-end scan tool to be sure). Hope this helps.
Hey there! I tackled this last night on my 2013 V.Turbo. I had issues after I put it back together. The EPS light is on and the Power steering light came on. My power steering is also disabled. Any help would be awesome, this was a very helpful video!
G'day Adrian, I'm guessing this problem occurred after you replaced the coupling. It could be something as simple as a dirty or corroded electrical connection. First thing check your fuses and your battery is fully charged (I hope you removed the ground cable from the battery before you started the repair). Next step you'll have to re-trace all your work, it sounds like you could have forgotten to plug in the wiring connector to the electric motor or the connectors to the motor driven power steering controller (the computer with all the wiring connectors PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR WITH THE BLUE LOCKING CLIP it may be damaged), take your time tracing everything back so you don't miss anything. If you have found any wiring connectors un-plugged and the EPS light is still on after you've plugged the connector back in, you can disconnect the earth/ground cable from the battery for 10 minutes or so then reconnect it or drive the car for approx. 100kms, and the light should go out (I'm assuming you don't have a high end scan tool to clear the fault code or DTC). On the other hand if you have absolutely confirmed 100% that all the electricals are plugged in, (without me seeing the car for myself to diagnose) you've probably accidently damaged either the motor driven power steering controller or the electric motor. To test these components you will need a scan tool more than likely a high end one to do in-depth testing. Then the other problem you'll probably face, is doing a re-set and calibration if you have to replace these components (worst case scenario). Just make sure that ALL the electrical plug connectors are PUSHED IN all the way, if not you may have bent one of the electrical pins, they are very thin and easy to bend if you push any of the electrical connectors on a slight angle. Like I said just take your time to go over the work performed don't assume its all okay, you can very easily miss something with all those wires everywhere. Just one more thing, your probably not going to like this one, if you have left no stone un-turned and you decide to go down the path of ripping it apart again, remove the electric motor that you previously removed, but this time, bench test it by connecting a 12 volt power supply directly to the motor to see if the motor is working. If Its okay there's a chance that the motor driven power steering controller has failed (must confirm with a high end scan tool to be sure). Hope this helps.
@@redpillgarage thank you! I figured it out! It was a cable that was ripped out of the power steering module when the column came down. I was able to sauter the cable back to the plug. Now I have a new problem. The steering wheel is now a 1/4 turned to the left when the car is going straight. Any thoughts?
Hi Adrian, sounds like you attempted to remove the complete unit out of the car, which resulted in the steering column/shaft to separate. Unfortunately you will have to partly go down that path again to attempt to re-align. Re-align the steering column, I'm sure you can fix this problem much quicker now as you've already pulled it down once.
@@redpillgarage would a wheel alignment at my local Hyundai dealership be able to correct the steering wheel being turned slightly to the left? I am actually due for an alignment soon.
Hi Adrian, Yes it can up to a certain point. Just make sure you tell them what you've done so they can advise if its out too much. You have a maximum limit to what you can adjust when getting a wheel alignment.
G'day @mwatwell67, you'll have to check your paper work or just give the dealer a call. They may class it as a wear and tear item, unless it has had a factory recall. Thank you.
G'day Adrian, no I didn't. I highly recommend you "do not'' loosen the universal joint or attempt to slide the steering shaft out as it may separate. It will result in you having to line everything back up which can take a very long time and that's if you get it right the first time (you'll find your steering wheel will not be centred when driving). Just follow my instructions on the video step by step, whilst having your phone with you and pausing the video. I do not miss any steps on the video, so you should feel confident on doing the job yourself. Follow the video and you won't stuff anything up.
@@redpillgarage Thanks mate, I watched another vid before yours and the guy loosened the bolts on the universal joint, I couldn't figure out why he would do it. Thanks again for the great vid . Cheers
You rock! Thank you for such an easy to understand, slow enough to be able to pause, and enjoyable accent
You are so welcome!
Terrific video mate. Followed instructions step by step and got it done. Took most of the day, much swearing and multiple cuts and lost a bit of blood haha. Hardest part was getting the single bolt in at the back of the column. Found out the hard way that you can't put the two nuts on first. Thanks again!
Thank you Brad.
Hi, just wanted to say thanks for this detailed video! I was able to change my own coupler (I did it over 2 days because I got too sore and angry!). The steering is such a pain to get back up, definitely need 2 people, but other than that, easy enough to follow. Thanks heaps!
Glad it helped!
@@redpillgarage It did! Although I spoke too soon, my steering ended up being misaligned slightly to the left. The steering wheel separated from the back portion when putting the coupler back. We slid the steering back on and no lights/error messages when restarting the car so assuming no damage to the clock spring. Will try again tomorrow and pull it apart to try to realign 👍
Hey mate just wanted to say thanks for this awesome video
It only took 4 hours from start to finish very detailed video I hope you keep making videos like this
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you ! I had exactly the same issue, you saved me tons of time investigating the problem.
You're welcome!
Cheers from Los Angeles. Thank you for the video! Took me about forever with sweat and blood (pulled skin on my finger while removing power steering controller) but it got fixed! Also, thank you for providing what tools to use, it cut down on figuring out what size to use.
You're welcome.👍
Very thorough and informative video, thank you for this! I now know this repair is far beyond my skill level and I should seek a professional!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for your comment. It does look complicated, but it actually isn't , if you have the basic tools as I show in the video you can't go wrong. If you do have second thoughts about doing it, just make sure you play the video whilst your working on it so you can STRICTLY follow step-by-step.
Excellent video
Thank you.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
You can't put the 2 nuts on below the steering wheel first, you have the hold up and tilt the steering wheel at an angle to slide the holes for the long bolt first. It's a major pain
As long its working fine in the end is what matters.
Hi there! First and foremost great video, this video is funny and helpful. Love the images on the side. However, my wheel seems to be misaligned to the right, any tips? Help please 🙏🏼
G'day @alejandraherrera8530, It seems that you must of accidently separated the steering shaft when lowering it. Don't know if your car is fitted with a Yaw sensor or not. You're probably have to re-align the steering shaft again unfortunately by starting all over again to prevent clock-spring failure (clock spring sits behind the air bag in the steering wheel). If it was a older car pre-airbag it would be a 5 minute job as you could simply pull off the steering wheel only and re-align it on the steering shaft splines. Just a quick tip also, when attempting to re-align the steering shaft, use a permanent marker as a starting point so you don't cover the same ground twice. Hope this helps and thank for watching the video.
How do I make sure the steering shaft is aligned?
@@alejandraherrera8530 unfortunately it will be trial and error. Estimate the angle of the steering wheel towards how much you need to turn it back to the left. There is no easy solution sorry.
Thanks so much for the tutorial, i accidentally pulled out my steering wheel whille installing back on. I put every thing back together but my steering wheel is now driving slightly left. Any suggestions? Any one?
G'day @natelopez4002, you're welcome! It's probably best if you can re-align the splines on the two steering shafts, my guess is you accidentally separated the steering shafts and not actually removed the steering wheel as you mentioned. If you did remove the steering wheel from the steering column, you can only remove it and refit until you get it straight again (that's the easy part). I'm unsure if your model is fitted with any Yaw sensors that might bring up warning lights. I recommend that you backtrack the job until you get it right. Just a quick tip: You may want to use a couple of different coloured markers to map out your positions on the steering shafts so you do not have to go over something you've already covered. Unfortunately without me seeing the car, there's no safe quick fix. If it was an older car pre-airbag era the easy way is to pull off the steering wheel and reposition it straight, usually a 5-minute job. Hope this helps.
Thank you so much for your reply. Yes I separated the steering shaft. I'm going to try and realign it. Thanks again.
@@natelopez4002 Your welcome
I’ve been wrenching for a while so I got no problem doing the work the only question I have is if this might cause my air bad light on the dash to turn on. So I can get a scan tool
Gday, your air bag light wont come on because your not tampering with the air bag circuit. Remove the battery ground cable as I did in the video before starting the job. I suggest that you watch the video in small increments as your doing the repair step by step, and you wont have a problem just take your time and follow the video.
I did this on my 2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo, but the traction control light came on once I finished and I don’t know why.
G'day @tylerjohnson3894, disconnect the ground/earth cable from the battery just like in the video ( make sure keys are removed from ignition first) and let it sit for 15 minutes then re-connect. Or the light may go out after 100 kms of driving. If both steps don't work you can buy a code reader for about $30.00 and just delete the code. If you followed all the steps in my video 100% you have nothing to worry about. Hope this helps.
@@redpillgarage How do I find the code? I have a cheap $60 OBD scanner from Amazon, not one of those fancy shop OBD scanners. But if a $30 one can do the trick, I’m trying to figure out how can I find the code.
Hi very informative how long should a garage take to do this?
G'day @user-cw3sd6bt2o, average approx. 1-2 hours depending on experience.
I tried to do this and accidentally disconnected the steering wheel from the back half when trying to mount it back up. Was able to put everything back together but not my steering wheel is unaligned, the ESC light came on, and the engine has an elongated beep when it turns on. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Hi, It's possible that you may have broken the clock spring (Google image "clock spring") behind the steering wheel. if the clock spring has turned and not centralised when re-fitting the steering wheel this can happen, they have very thin wires built inside and can break very easily if stretched. If the clock spring is broken, the check engine light will come on and possibly others (always disconnect battery to prevent air bag deployment). The only way to find what fault code it is, unfortunately you'll have to buy a code reader/scan tool. As you've already discovered there is no need to remove the steering wheel. I don't know your level of experience, but you'll have back track your work "patiently" until you get it lined up and straight, unfortunately it's the only way. Then take it to a Mechanic if you don't have access to a code reader/scan tool, so they can sort out the other half of the problem. Just make sure if you decide to take it to a Mechanic that you tell them exactly what you've done, so this way they don't waste time searching too long, this way you'll save money on diagnostic/labour charges. Other than that without me seeing the car myself, I cannot make a proper diagnosis, I don't want to send you down the wrong path. Hope this helps.
Thank you so much for reaching back! Working on it now but this was definitely helpful!
Hi can you tell me what year is this Veloster
G'day Rosalinda, it is a May 2012 model with a 1.6Ltr motor FS Veloster.
Hi. How did you unlock the steering wheel ?
Hi Scott, I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean dropping the column down? Or unlocking the steering wheel by inserting and turning the ignition key. Or push the ignition button to start, make sure you press the brake pedal. Happy to help if you need it.
Can you tell me the s/n on flexible part?
Hi Andreas,
Part No. 563152k000FFF this is from Hyundai Australia, hope this helps.
Changed it but got a dash light on now
G'day @user-mq1pn3en4h. I'm guessing this problem occurred after you replaced the coupling. It could be something as simple as a dirty or corroded electrical connection. First thing check your fuses and your battery is fully charged (I hope you removed the ground cable from the battery before you started the repair). Next step you'll have to re-trace all your work, it sounds like you could have forgotten to plug in the wiring connector to the electric motor or the connectors to the motor-driven power steering controller (the computer with all the wiring connectors PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR WITH THE BLUE LOCKING CLIP it may be damaged), take your time tracing everything back so you don't miss anything. If you have found any wiring connectors unplugged and the EPS light is still on after you've plugged the connector back in, you can disconnect the earth/ground cable from the battery for 10 minutes or so then reconnect it or drive the car for approx. 100kms and the light should go out (I'm assuming you don't have a high-end scan tool to clear the fault code or DTC).
On the other hand, if you have absolutely confirmed 100% that all the electricals are plugged in, (without me seeing the car for myself to diagnose) you've probably accidentally damaged either the motor-driven power steering controller or the electric motor. To test these components you will need a scan tool more than likely a high-end one to do in-depth testing. Then the other problem you'll probably face is doing a re-set and calibration if you have to replace these components (worst case scenario). Just make sure that ALL the electrical plug connectors are PUSHED IN all the way, if not you may have bent one of the electrical pins, they are very thin and easy to bend if you push any of the electrical connectors on a slight angle. Like I said just take your time to go over the work performed don't assume it's all okay, you can very easily miss something with all those wires everywhere. Just one more thing, your probably not going to like this one, if you have left no stone un-turned and you decide to go down the path of ripping it apart again, remove the electric motor that you previously removed, but this time, bench test it by connecting a 12 volt power supply directly to the motor to see if the motor is working. If It's okay there's a chance that the motor-driven power steering controller has failed (must confirm with a high-end scan tool to be sure). Hope this helps.
Man your right it's a dogs breakfast, I wouldn't even try to do this, just take to Redpill and let him do it ----AU
Thanks mate I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Hey there! I tackled this last night on my 2013 V.Turbo. I had issues after I put it back together. The EPS light is on and the Power steering light came on. My power steering is also disabled. Any help would be awesome, this was a very helpful video!
G'day Adrian, I'm guessing this problem occurred after you replaced the coupling. It could be something as simple as a dirty or corroded electrical connection. First thing check your fuses and your battery is fully charged (I hope you removed the ground cable from the battery before you started the repair). Next step you'll have to re-trace all your work, it sounds like you could have forgotten to plug in the wiring connector to the electric motor or the connectors to the motor driven power steering controller (the computer with all the wiring connectors PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR WITH THE BLUE LOCKING CLIP it may be damaged), take your time tracing everything back so you don't miss anything. If you have found any wiring connectors un-plugged and the EPS light is still on after you've plugged the connector back in, you can disconnect the earth/ground cable from the battery for 10 minutes or so then reconnect it or drive the car for approx. 100kms, and the light should go out (I'm assuming you don't have a high end scan tool to clear the fault code or DTC).
On the other hand if you have absolutely confirmed 100% that all the electricals are plugged in, (without me seeing the car for myself to diagnose) you've probably accidently damaged either the motor driven power steering controller or the electric motor. To test these components you will need a scan tool more than likely a high end one to do in-depth testing. Then the other problem you'll probably face, is doing a re-set and calibration if you have to replace these components (worst case scenario). Just make sure that ALL the electrical plug connectors are PUSHED IN all the way, if not you may have bent one of the electrical pins, they are very thin and easy to bend if you push any of the electrical connectors on a slight angle. Like I said just take your time to go over the work performed don't assume its all okay, you can very easily miss something with all those wires everywhere. Just one more thing, your probably not going to like this one, if you have left no stone un-turned and you decide to go down the path of ripping it apart again, remove the electric motor that you previously removed, but this time, bench test it by connecting a 12 volt power supply directly to the motor to see if the motor is working. If Its okay there's a chance that the motor driven power steering controller has failed (must confirm with a high end scan tool to be sure). Hope this helps.
@@redpillgarage thank you! I figured it out! It was a cable that was ripped out of the power steering module when the column came down. I was able to sauter the cable back to the plug. Now I have a new problem. The steering wheel is now a 1/4 turned to the left when the car is going straight. Any thoughts?
Hi Adrian, sounds like you attempted to remove the complete unit out of the car, which resulted in the steering column/shaft to separate. Unfortunately you will have to partly go down that path again to attempt to re-align. Re-align the steering column, I'm sure you can fix this problem much quicker now as you've already pulled it down once.
@@redpillgarage would a wheel alignment at my local Hyundai dealership be able to correct the steering wheel being turned slightly to the left? I am actually due for an alignment soon.
Hi Adrian, Yes it can up to a certain point. Just make sure you tell them what you've done so they can advise if its out too much. You have a maximum limit to what you can adjust when getting a wheel alignment.
I have 150,000 mile warranty on my veloster. would the warranty cover this?
G'day @mwatwell67, you'll have to check your paper work or just give the dealer a call. They may class it as a wear and tear item, unless it has had a factory recall. Thank you.
Did you have to loosen any of the steering wheel universal joint? great video mate 😀
G'day Adrian, no I didn't. I highly recommend you "do not'' loosen the universal joint or attempt to slide the steering shaft out as it may separate. It will result in you having to line everything back up which can take a very long time and that's if you get it right the first time (you'll find your steering wheel will not be centred when driving). Just follow my instructions on the video step by step, whilst having your phone with you and pausing the video. I do not miss any steps on the video, so you should feel confident on doing the job yourself. Follow the video and you won't stuff anything up.
@@redpillgarage Thanks mate, I watched another vid before yours and the guy loosened the bolts on the universal joint, I couldn't figure out why he would do it. Thanks again for the great vid . Cheers