Looking good did you run a new circuit or did you just move and relocate the Existing circuits? Good idea to have a designated circuit for that giant Refrigerator lol
No new circuit. There are no new loads than the old kitchen had. Just different locations. Fridge already had it's dedicated 20 amp line. If anything, the entire kitchen will draw less power that the old one did, as all cabinets lights will now be LED's.
Diesel Mike good deal led are nice I think I’m gonna run 14 Gage 15amp my lighting circuits in my basement, just don’t need 20amp any more .....hell we barely need 20 amp circuits for our outlets anymore, things have gotten so much more efficient.....I think my toaster draws the most out of anything in my whole house ....
14G 15amp is all you need for light circuits anyway. Even with old incandescent bulbs that was the standard. I would still put all your outlets on a 20amp line with 12G. (You know, code compliant and all that BS). In a basement application, make sure you run your home run line first to a GFCI outlet, then string the rest down the line off that so all will be protected. Good luck. I would love to see you project.
Diesel Mike Diesel Mike thanks for the heads up yea I bought two AFCI/GFCI breakers a 15 and a 20 ,that ridged foam makes me nervous they say it’s flammable and the smoke fumes can kill you and I don’t wanna Chance any electrical fires ...I think I’m going with ridged foam up against Cinder block, studded wall with rock wool installation then drywall
I went with LED hardwired Light Bars from Lowes. They go by the name Good Earth Lighting or are sometimes sold under the Lowes house name, Utilitech. They are the exact same, with the exact same SKU #'s. Lowes buys from Good Earth and slaps their Utilitech name on them. And they come in multiple sizes. Here's a link for the 30" www.lowes.com/pd/Good-Earth-Lighting-Value-LED-Direct-Wire-Bar-30-in-Hardwired-Under-Cabinet-LED-Light-Bar/999972774 I am extremely satisfied with them. I have them on Lutron Dimmers which provide a nice range from mood lighting to full blown practical light for food preparation, etc. Even though this project was completed in early spring 2019 I have yet to post a video of the final project. I plan on getting on that soon, which I will showcase the lights. So stay tuned and look for updated videos. Thanks for watching and commenting.
You should have a electrician check your wiring. I see multiple violations in you video. Overload wiring , crossing different gauge wires which are fire hazards etc... but other then that it’s looking good
Thanks. The finished product came out great. The lines from the service panel for the lights are all 14G on 15amp circuits. But the loads are all low voltage LEDs. Barely any draw on these circuits. Any 12G wire you see are existing wiring for outlets on 20Amp circuits and all GFCI protected. Everything is 100% in line with electrical codes and well below the maximum allowable loads. Appreciate the comment and taking time to watch.
@@DieselMike Could you tell me how you wired your high cabinet lighting? I see the direct romex wire from the switch to the high cabinet. What is that hard wired to? Im looking to only wire just one direct wired fixture to one cabinet from a switch.
@@GELATINOUSORBZ Hey - Thanks for watching and the comment! It's a very basic wiring setup - Power comes into the junction box where the two switches are located (The power is the third romex from the left - pause at 0:57 to see) - The black wire in that hot line gets "split" (pig tailed) in the box - One pigtail goes to a terminal on the switch that powers the under cabinet lights, the other goes to the switch that powers the high cabinet light. The romex you speak of going from the switch to the high cabinet supplies power to the light. You take the black wire on that romex, connect it to the other terminal on the switch. (join all white white wires from the same circuit onto one wire nut in the box) - At the other end of the romex you asked about, simply connect the light fixture (black to back - white to white). Again look at the 0:57 mark and wires from left to right as follows: 1. Wire "to" the high cab light 2. Wire "to the undercabinet light(s) 3. Power IN - This is the one that powers the lights and gets pig tailed in the box The only difference for your setup is that you will not have to pigtail the black hot wire because you are only running ONE switch to power ONE light. Simply run 2 romex into the switch box - One that comes from a power source (the main panel i.e.) - The other that goes to the light fixture - Connect the black from the power to one terminal on switch. and the black form the other romex to the other terminal. Join both whites together with a wire nut. You didn't ask about the other 2 yellow wires but they are a separate circuit and has nothing to do with the lights. One comes directly from the service panel - attaches to the GFCI outlet - the other other continues the run to "downstream" outlets - which will all be protected by the GFCI. Hope this all makes sense - If still confused, follow up with another question and I will do by best to answer.
Хобби
Very Good!... 13 🐄🦉🏴☠✝
Looking good did you run a new circuit or did you just move and relocate the Existing circuits? Good idea to have a designated circuit for that giant Refrigerator lol
No new circuit. There are no new loads than the old kitchen had. Just different locations. Fridge already had it's dedicated 20 amp line. If anything, the entire kitchen will draw less power that the old one did, as all cabinets lights will now be LED's.
Diesel Mike good deal led are nice I think I’m gonna run 14 Gage 15amp my lighting circuits in my basement, just don’t need 20amp any more .....hell we barely need 20 amp circuits for our outlets anymore, things have gotten so much more efficient.....I think my toaster draws the most out of anything in my whole house ....
14G 15amp is all you need for light circuits anyway. Even with old incandescent bulbs that was the standard. I would still put all your outlets on a 20amp line with 12G. (You know, code compliant and all that BS). In a basement application, make sure you run your home run line first to a GFCI outlet, then string the rest down the line off that so all will be protected. Good luck. I would love to see you project.
Diesel Mike Diesel Mike thanks for the heads up yea I bought two AFCI/GFCI breakers a 15 and a 20 ,that ridged foam makes me nervous they say it’s flammable and the smoke fumes can kill you and I don’t wanna Chance any electrical fires ...I think I’m going with ridged foam up against Cinder block, studded wall with rock wool installation then drywall
What kind of under cabinet lights did you use for this project?
I went with LED hardwired Light Bars from Lowes. They go by the name Good Earth Lighting or are sometimes sold under the Lowes house name, Utilitech. They are the exact same, with the exact same SKU #'s. Lowes buys from Good Earth and slaps their Utilitech name on them. And they come in multiple sizes. Here's a link for the 30"
www.lowes.com/pd/Good-Earth-Lighting-Value-LED-Direct-Wire-Bar-30-in-Hardwired-Under-Cabinet-LED-Light-Bar/999972774
I am extremely satisfied with them. I have them on Lutron Dimmers which provide a nice range from mood lighting to full blown practical light for food preparation, etc.
Even though this project was completed in early spring 2019 I have yet to post a video of the final project. I plan on getting on that soon, which I will showcase the lights. So stay tuned and look for updated videos. Thanks for watching and commenting.
You should have a electrician check your wiring. I see multiple violations in you video. Overload wiring , crossing different gauge wires which are fire hazards etc... but other then that it’s looking good
Thanks. The finished product came out great. The lines from the service panel for the lights are all 14G on 15amp circuits. But the loads are all low voltage LEDs. Barely any draw on these circuits. Any 12G wire you see are existing wiring for outlets on 20Amp circuits and all GFCI protected. Everything is 100% in line with electrical codes and well below the maximum allowable loads. Appreciate the comment and taking time to watch.
@@DieselMike Could you tell me how you wired your high cabinet lighting? I see the direct romex wire from the switch to the high cabinet. What is that hard wired to? Im looking to only wire just one direct wired fixture to one cabinet from a switch.
@@GELATINOUSORBZ Hey - Thanks for watching and the comment! It's a very basic wiring setup -
Power comes into the junction box where the two switches are located (The power is the third romex from the left - pause at 0:57 to see) - The black wire in that hot line gets "split" (pig tailed) in the box - One pigtail goes to a terminal on the switch that powers the under cabinet lights, the other goes to the switch that powers the high cabinet light.
The romex you speak of going from the switch to the high cabinet supplies power to the light. You take the black wire on that romex, connect it to the other terminal on the switch. (join all white white wires from the same circuit onto one wire nut in the box) - At the other end of the romex you asked about, simply connect the light fixture (black to back - white to white).
Again look at the 0:57 mark and wires from left to right as follows:
1. Wire "to" the high cab light
2. Wire "to the undercabinet light(s)
3. Power IN - This is the one that powers the lights and gets pig tailed in the box
The only difference for your setup is that you will not have to pigtail the black hot wire because you are only running ONE switch to power ONE light. Simply run 2 romex into the switch box - One that comes from a power source (the main panel i.e.) - The other that goes to the light fixture - Connect the black from the power to one terminal on switch. and the black form the other romex to the other terminal. Join both whites together with a wire nut.
You didn't ask about the other 2 yellow wires but they are a separate circuit and has nothing to do with the lights. One comes directly from the service panel - attaches to the GFCI outlet - the other other continues the run to "downstream" outlets - which will all be protected by the GFCI.
Hope this all makes sense - If still confused, follow up with another question and I will do by best to answer.
@@DieselMike yes I see. thanks.