I thought to mention that I have washed engines for years and would like to suggest a couple of tips which have kept me out of trouble. 1. Wash with engine off - this is more of a safety issue (don’t want to accidently get the spray caught in moving parts - yea I know but, it happens 2. Never wash your engine if it’s extremely hot. I always drive it just enough to warm it to operating temp. If a hot day wait with hood open to let engine cool 3. Cover that alternator. It is designed to live in the real world but try not to soak it. 4. Pretreatment is highly recommended unless engine is just dusty - this will shorten the spry time 5. When washing over electrical components release the trigger to get a softer spray 6. After your done take the car out for a 15 -20 min drive. This will dry everything faster to avoid problems with water seeping into things 7. Finally, thank you Eric!!! for helping all of us be better techs (even better shade tree mechanics like me ;-) - hope you guys find this helpful
@@casz7098 I would suggest avoiding any spay wax. If you want to polish plastic parts use the "back to Black" treatment on a shop rag then apply a couple of coats seems to work for me. Hope that helps a bit. Thanks again for all of your videos - I am learning a lot from you.
@@0utcast the way you're going off in your comments says a lot more about YOU than your comments say about chris. Fuck off outta here if you don't like the mans content. Pathetic little bitch.
@@0utcast Apparently you've never had fun with vehicles. Engines run under water hence the reason there are snorkels for vehicles. If your engine has issues after something as simple as washing it then you need to fix your blown out stuff.
Back in 98 I bought a brand new Civic. Drove it for 14 years and after every winter I power washed the engine. Never had any problems. Not once.I guess... do at your own risk.Thank you for the video.
What I've learned is that Honda, Toyota, and General Motor vehicles are the best for washing the engine bays. They seemed to have figured out the water sealing practice almost perfectly. Sadly the worst by a long shot is Dodge and Range Rover. I've also noticed that some Jaguar's tend to fail but that was on like only two or three of them.
Yep. I replaced the Civic with a new car and I am driving this one 11th year. Cars are a waste of money. Buy the best one you can. Take care of it and drive it to the end.
UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust ruclips.net/user/postUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
Working as a detailer in both an auto auction and collision center I feel compelled to give a few tips: 1, be aware of how long you are hosing your engines off. The longer you are in the engine bay, the more likely you are to potentially damage things. 2, spraying the bay in an H-pattern (start by standing next to the left fender and spraying everything at that angle, then front bumper area, and finish from the right fender) seems to work best for overall coverage of the bay. 3, if you own a Dodge Ram or Range Rover of ANY model, do NOT wash your engine bay with water! THERE ARE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS THAT ARE NOT SEALED VERY WELL AND IF THEY GET WET THE WATER WILL CAUSE THE MAIN COMPUTER TO FAIL COSTING YOU THOUSANDS. The best way to wash those vehicles are by using a degreaser-type spray cleaner and rags. If you still want to risk washing them, do so with light amounts of water and at your own desegregation. 4, do not wash the engine more than twice a year. Doing so will cause premature failure to gaskets, hoses, and lightweight plastic. I had several air hoses on my old pathfinder crack and fail from washing the engine bay too often and learned this tip from that mistake lol. 5, try to let your engine cool off some before you wash it, ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE COLD WATER. If not it will raise the risk of the engine block cracking and/or failing. 6, please wear safety glasses and older clothes. Doing so will prevent things like paint (see Eric's engine), oil, rust, and other debris from getting into your eyes. Also, wearing the older clothes will lower the chance of ruining good clothes from oils and solvents as they splash onto you, which I promise, will happen. :-)
Oh btw guys engines are made waterproof because water gets in them when it rains😂he’s using a pressure washer for gods sake he is blasting it with like 500-1000 psi no shit it’s gonna fault the electrical
when i wash my engine compartment I cover sensitive electronic components with plastic, disconnecting the battery also and blast compressed air to help it dry. i dont use pressurized water because it forces water too much. Then i drive the car for a time.
jim c. I am usually very reluctant to wash the engine; but when it's necessary, I make sure the engine is warm (not hot = no cracking things) to help dry the pockets of water and never use high pressure on electrical boxes/connections.
If you drive your car in the rain, you can bet your ass your engine compartment gets wet (this is why electrical connectors have the rubber seals inside them, weatherproof for a reason). Some cars have the alternator mounted at the bottom, like my G8, and it's just fine in the rain. On top of that, after doing everything you're afraid of, Eric's Integra still runs just fine. :shocking:
Jeff Smith Eric did say proceed with caution. theres also a difference between driving a car in the rain and having your whole engine compartment from being hosed on top. Some do get lucky some dont =]
I detail cars and I always use a pair washer on the engine bay but I do not spray that close. I soak it with degreaser leave it dwell for about 3 to 4 minutes then spray it off from about a for to a foot and a half back then dry with a blower. Never had any problems and always have squeaky clean engine bays.
I live on a dirt road. Washing the underhood of my vehicles is a nearly a monthly routine.. Doesn't hurt a thing, just use common sense as to what you are spraying.. Easy enough.
Yep! If you have a clue what's under the hood, then you should have some idea what NOT to get wet. Use plastic bags or something to cover those areas, if necessary. It's not hard. That said, I personally prefer to use Simple Green and a power washer. Set the spray tip for a "fan" spray, and you shouldn't have to worry as much about forcing water into stuff.
The Kansas Dude Yeah, I drove through a dust storm and HAD to wash the engine bay. if your car can't handle a little water, that company should just stop producing cars.
I agree Dodge should stop producing cars haha. Seriously though, if any company needs to learn the meaning of weatherproof, Dodge does. Their connectors seem to corrode worse than any other company and they place computers in super vulnerable spots.
Spent years as a professional detailer and always used the high pressure spray for cleaning engines. Never experienced any issues with modern engines, but older 4 cyl engines with the plug/coil on top of the engine can be a problem. Usually water entering the spark plug hole. This is easily remedied by blowing out or vacuuming the water out. And you don't want the alternator to get wet, so cover it with Saran wrap or a plastic bag. Protecting the engine chemically after cleaning is an important step too. Helps keep it clean and combating elements. I recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant or McKee's 37 Trim Detailer as a finisher.
So does tire dressing.....which I put on my engine compartment a few times a year and a good soaking in the fall. It is silicone, keeps the salt from destroying everything, keeps rubber and plastic parts from degrading.
When I wash my engine, I start with the engine cold, then spray a good dose (can or two depending on the dirt) of a good degreaser and let it soak for a while, then rinse it off well, then start it to let it get hot and dry off. Works good. Just be careful of the air box and fuses.
I used to work for a used dealership/detailing shop and the owner would do this to every car they got in with heavy duty pressure washer. Entire engine bay would get swamped with degreaser and he had this low acid cleaner for exposed metal. Then, the interiors would get soaked with a brush and a bucket, electronics and all and he would blast it out with an air compressor. For 2 years, this felt wrong every time but, as far as I could tell, it never caused an issue and they looked much better. That man could buff $1000 into a 10 year old paint job.
I've always wash my engine once a year. . . . . right after winter. Keeps the grime down and keeps my hands clean when I have to work on anything. Also its worth mentioning Purple Power or Simple Green works far better than the stuff that comes in the can. Just rinse the engine off first like you did than spray everything with your cleaner and let soak for a good 15 minutes before rinsing again. Works awesome.
TheTarrMan Careful with Purple Power, leave it on too long on aluminum with start to "eat away" at the surface. I've read threads where PP ruined anything aluminum if not washed off quickly enough. In my '92 Celica I only left it on for less than 10min and it tarnished the surface significantly.
dollar tree "L.A.'s totally awesome" a degreaser that i use all the time, not yet on engine. You can dilute it for household use, but it says on the bottle to use it at full strength to degrease an engine.
wolfstar just leave on no more then 10 min. I drive my car just over to car wash and let it sit to cool down a bit, 10 min while I eat something. Get out spray set timer. What I do is use the spot free rinse to wash and just go over everything never let the water sit in one spot. All I do is cover my dizzy, just be smart around wiring etc.
I wash mine all the time and I have a plug to coil deep socket engine the worst to clean I simply spray degreeser on the sides of the engine and on the rag and wipe on the top never had a problem never used water
That's awesome. I did a video on this topic and got water in some expired crappy plug wires in a straight 4 with deep plug wells. Misfires ensued, so I used the opportunity to show how to correct it. Glad it worked out for you. I do this practice all the time as a clean freak and have had results like you show here 99.999% of the time. Basically if the parts that keep water out are good, you're good. If those parts are bad or fail, you've got work to do with an air nozzle.
People say washing the engine is a bad idea. Yes, it is a bad idea when you don't know how to do it properly. This video somewhat covers the basics, which is avoiding electronic and ignition stuff, but there are a few things that were not mentioned. These are: -Covering intake ports. Sometimes in order to have a better overall reach for your pressure washer, you need to remove your air filter. It is mandatory to cover those places up. - Same goes for fuse boxes and cars equipped with mechanical distributors. Cover them up in plastic bags, and when done with the engine, manually clean the part. In fact, there are many cars that have an icon on their engine bay fuse boxes that say you should not pressure-wash them. - NEVER wash a hot engine. Sudden temp changes in things such as coil packs are instant murder for them. - Keep your distance. Don't get that nozzle too close to sensitive parts, wires, etc. - Don't stay in one place for too long, keep on moving the nozzle. The water pressure is for you to rinse off grime and gunk fast and easy. You're not supposed to "scrub" stuff with the jet stream, or let it sit for it to remove sludge or other hardened junk. This is the main reason why issues come up for a lot of people. - In order to comply with my previous point, it is mandatory to use degreaser strong enough to remedy the current situation of your engine dirtiness. You're supposed to apply degreaser, let it sit for a bit and rinse the engine. Repeat as necessary. For stubborn spots, manually scrub with proper tools. A lot of coin-operated car washes have engine degreaser, and the ones I've used it in, the degreaser is waay too good. I even use it on the tires and they get really clean with no scrubbing needed on the tire.
Lol, I own a Ram 1500, and there isn't one sticker on there, nice try though. Besides, yes they're water cooled, but if there is 2 inches of grease buildup on the outside of the engine, that'll hold in heat a little longer, than if it weren't there at all. Have you ever felt an engine block while warm, the outside is hot, therefore if the block is clean, it can cool off the block faster.
I've had great results with S-100 motorcycle cleaner for cleaning the engine bay. Let it sit a minute, and it drastically reduces the time spent spraying pressurized water into possibly sensitive components. Only problem I've had is water getting into a spark plug well, so avoid spraying too much near those. Just discovered Eric TheCarGuy on youtube today. He's a great resource for every topic I've seen. Two thumbs up!
What is it with people and dirty engines? It's perfectly safe to do so, if you have a mechanical thing designed to run in all weather exposed to the outside world and it goes bad to a few sprinkles of water, then it has a problem and it needs to be fixed. All electrical connections are water-proofed and the engine itself is an isolated machine with no connection to the outside other than the air intake and exhaust. If I was a mechanic I'd charge extra for working on dirty engines.
*water resistant Try submerging your engine bay in a lake and see how that works out for you. Electrical connections are designed to be okay from light mists and sprays due to rain getting in through the grills as well as water bouncing up from the ground. That does not mean that they are designed to withstand a constantly stream of water or a high PSI of water being jet blasted directly onto them. Further even if the connectors do work after you run the risk of shortening their life span as water proofing degrades over time (same reason we repair and rebuild dams). Consider that water is not the problem but all the minerals and contaminants that it contains. Those minerals build up in the connectors over time.
@@Luckingsworth "Try submerging your engine bay in a lake ".. are you a moron? No shit sherlock that causes the intake to be submerged too. How is that equivalent to washing an engine bay? Power washing =/= submerging in a lake. Everything else you said was massive bs ('dangerous mineral deposits' forming after 1 clean or 1-2 cleans a yr? lmao!) and made up arm chair theorizing. Stop misinforming people if u have no idea wtf you're talking about.
@@octavian3287 I think you're missing the point, in fact i'de say you're the moron. The point is that forcing water and soaking water is what causes damage. That's why you gotta cover certain parts and do certain parts individual with spraying water.
I prefer an engine cleaner/degreaser first (on a warm engine), followed by a low-pressure rinse and then using compressed air to blow off the excess water.
I think this is exactly the way to go. I used Purple Power on my engine bay, and rinsed with water at the lowest pressure setting that I could. I let the engine air dry for about an hour, and it still runs well.
I wash my engine at home with a garden hose and nozzle so the pressure is not too high, I don't think I would trust a pressure washer like that. I'll only do it after the car has sat overnight and is cold so I don't risk cracking or damaging anything. I spray foaming degreaser on everything, agitate it with a scrub brush to loosen the grease and grime. Then I leave it sit for 15-20 minutes and hose everything off really good. Sometimes I give it two coats of degreaser if it is really dirty. Then I let it drip dry for half an hour and then start it up and let it run for 15 minutes to dry everything out. Then once it's cooled I lightly coat everything with engine shine to make it look really good. Done this over 5 times with my 2002 Saturn SL and never had any problems with it afterwards.
It's like Scotty Kilmer said about washing the engine..."you don't eat your lunch under there!!" That being said been washing my engine for years. I like it looking clean.
Eric drives a 98-01 Integra GSR, 101k miles with black leather interior?!? What a fuckin gem that is! That just made you a million times cooler in my book Eric! Thanks for all your awesome videos sir
When washing an engine I like to wait untill the engine is cool to the touch, then spray my degreaser on all the parts of the engine, I then let it sit for a couple of minutes before I take a brush and agitate, I apply more degreaser as needed. Then after I feel I've covered the whole engine I use the mist of the pressureewasher ( keeping it at about 50cm away from any part I'm rinsing. and make sure to remove any residue from the cleaner. You can then use a dressing for rubber/vinyl or similar to make the engine easier to clean the next time. You should however also cover the fusebox, alternator and electrical connections with plastic (shopping bag works great) before you start. I haven't but I would recommend it.
One of my cars caught on fire, and the engine was a grease ball. I put it out with an extinguisher and drove it home, the powder in the extinguisher soaked up the grease and on a hot engine it hosed all off no problem. Now it's amazingly clean. What I learned was fire extinguishers are the best degreaser.
I painted my 04 TL's head covers & intake plenum cover with Rust-Oleum's caliper paint (red). This paint does not require primer, and is very robust. Brakes get hotter than engine so there is no concern for high-heat (except for exhaust components). Honda's head cover paint is notorious for deteriorating, as well as head cover seal allowing engine oil to leak.
Basic step 1. Cover up important parts such as fuse box, distributor, abs sensor, throttle body sensor (depends on type of engine) 2. Spray a degreaser, rest for 3 minutes (don't use water) 3. Spray a car shampoo 4. Brush all parts that u can reach by hand by using detail brush 5. Use low pressure of water and clean the bay 6. Use blower/air compressor to remove stagnant water 7. Rest for 2 or 3 hours 8. Start your engine Good luck
We pressure wash every engine/engine compartment/power-train before performing any work unless it is already very clean and again after the work is performed the engine/engine compartment/power-train is pressure washed and then the vehicle exterior is washed, windows/mirrors cleaned and interior vacuumed unless the owner specifically instructs not to wash the exterior/windows/mirrors and vacuum. We usually have no issues from pressure washing the engine/power-train. The few instances with issues are usually ignition related and due to pre-existing defective components such as old leaking plug wires, cracked coil or cracked cap. Manufacturers design and engineer the equipment in the engine compartment and exterior to be water/weather resistant mechanically and electrically. That does not mean the vehicle can be safely submerged or abused without consequences. Most every US vehicle manufactured since 1985 must conform to an IEC/SAE/ISO/NEMA ingress/intrusion prevention spec and that since 1996 that spec is generally IP65/66/67. IP67 states "Water projected in powerful jets (12.5 mm nozzle) against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects".
Honestly, I can't beleive you made this video. I wash my engine twice a year. Granted, I always protect intake and major electronic components such as the ECU, Starter or Alternator. Its NEEDED when the country you live in uses salt in the winter as the salt can do more damage to the engine bay than ANY wash will ever do. If your car experiences problems after washing it is probably because the part that went wrong was already weak. All connectors and most parts under the hood are water tight. I have done this on multiple cars and for years always with success. Parts that did fail after a wash I knew were due.
Well the one time I did pressure wash my car it was a caddy and somehow water got in the fuel line or something and it n stuttered for almost a week(kept cutting off) they almost had to disconnect the gas lines and blow air through it to get all the water out of there intake
@@BirdFromYakiVegas i just spray washed it and called it a day, it really depends on the vehicle though. A lot of the newer gm cars have a computer sitting on top of the battery, but in a plastic cover, so if u brushed past it with a power washer, then u will be o.k., but if you were hitting direct pressure where the harnesses connect together, or power washing over where lines connect (fuel lines to injectors or fuel rails for instance) then u can have an issue. On my 1988 monte carlo ss, i would take different precautions cleaning under the hood of that vs my chevy trailblazer. I would put a bag around the carb and around certain electrical connections and opening to the intake. So it really depends. Hope your car got fixed though.
I tried but because i was too nervous i ended up covering the entire engine bay instead of just covering the alternator, distributor and battery. So i just ended up washing the wheels. What a life.
Been washing my engines for decades because I hate working in the filth, never had one problem other than a little miss once in a while that went away after a few minutes. TheReaper!
I always make sure my engine is warm enough before i wash it. i put engine soap and wash it with warm water and be wary around spark plugs . the water can go into them and electical plugs,and around the equitment used for the transmission . then i brush warm air and let it sit for 10mintues with closed bonnet. works every time for me. i mainly do it in the spring time. to wash of salt and sand which was used on the roads
If you're washing the engine bay of a much older truck, such as a 70's maybe early 80s for example you dont have to worry as much. Wrap around the carb and breather and distributor cap and seal it as much as you can maybe wrap the alternator or cover the battery up and your good. That's the one thing I love about the much older trucks. They dont have all the electronics and more sensitive parts the more modern cars do
Now I am assuming this was a long while ago, however, if you still have this car, a cheap turbo install would really spread the good word of your channel. In fact, when I look for answers fixing things and search RUclips, if anytime its one of your videos, I just watch yours first now because you've always got the answer correctly done. Thank you for your service to the public like myself.
Robert cover your alternator, starter, distributor, air intake... use common sense/judgment. Don’t spray electric connectors too long. Work as quickly as possible! It’s kinda scary. I’ve done it before, but it always makes me nervous. I might do my boat’s engine today. Good luck.
Robert you’re welcome. I just did my boat’s engine, following my own advice. Engine and bilge look brand new again. I blew away the excess standing water with my leaf blower and I ran an old attic window fan over the engine for a few hours. And one more thing... don’t forget to remove the battery!
In my country, you *have* to wash the engine before the bi-yearly car inspection. The problem is that water damage can then occur much much later, alternator damage, electronics etc
I have been washing my engine for 30 plus years, I would not have it any other way. Every spring you could eat off my engine. It was made for the elements, it always amazes me how people don't take care of the Engine compartment. I watch many repair videos and I say.. Lots of nastiness.. It's all water hardy, two cans of good engine cleaner and a hose and You and the engine will be happy. Add to that you don't have to deal with all the nasties when you have to work on it... An engine compartment afraid of water..?!? Give me a break..
Rather than just blasting it with soap and water which i do feel could create problems i just use a bucket of soap, water and clean one bit at a time, takes longer but less risk
If you're going to do this, do it before your fluid changes. Oil, Transmission, power steering, brake fluid. If there are any open spaces that will take on water, you don't want water moving around in any of those components, so I'd recommend flushing or draining and filling fluids.
Boonus18 haha so true. i did this on my old mustang, and f150. had to blow the coils n plugs with compressed air. but my lbz, tl and silverado isn't a problem. idk why.
I recently just acquired a 02 Explorer V8 4.6 and washed the engine. Luckily I didn't screw it up like a lot of people do because I did it 5 miles from home lol
Nice work ETCG. I like clean, number one reason is it helps prevent stuff falling into places i dont want it to fall when working on the car. Heres my actual input, I hope its useful: - Bring tin foil to car wash, tinfoil around/over/under things you want to protect. Way easier than plastic and ties/tape/rubber bands. - Flashlight = helpful to see if youve washed stuff and where youre spraying. - If youre at home, put car on ramps or jack it up and take off wheels. Get ready to lay in water and get backsprayed as you wash under/sides. - Use short blasts near the sensitive area. - Set the car wash to sparkle/spot-free rinse when you are rinsing dust. It's clean fresh water at lower pressure, helps to not leave water marks on aluminum/plastic etc. - Do not soap or high pressure spray your hood insulator mat. It will take forever to rinse out, and it may rip from high pressure. - Briansmobile has it right, use the air nozzle or rags to dry areas where water might pool. Dont use air near electrical puddles, use the rag or the Bart Simpson rag-on-a-stick. I appreciate any comments or additions to the list! :) Stay gold.
Done it for decades on all my cars. Never had one problem. When the car is new, coat everything with something like 303 protectant and it won't oxidize as get coated with junk in the first place.
Dear Eric, after engine pressure wash at our end they ran an air pressure all around the engine to expel any sort of trapped water specially around distributor , spark plugs and cables , electrical connectors and to dry the engine. Usually when the car does not start it is either the water accessed to the distributor or to air intake or purge valve (if there is a leaky air hose or cracked hose tip). in such cases they open the distributor under the sun and dry it with compressed air, so as the air intake and filter. Another tip is to avoid direct water pressure on alternators as this may cause a damage to it in certain models. Basically if the car is over 10 years and have high mileage or if the car's engine have a signs of tampered with (like engine change or major mechanical or electrical changes) then you should never do it except at your home to avoid being stranded. In all cases such practice should be done in summer only. Another important wash is underneath the car by lifting it on hoist (there is car wash stations do that) and this process will refresh the suspension, inner wheels, wheel housings, oil pans, exhaust pipe connections from accumulated debris and will in some cases remove certain suspension squeaks. Some use diesel fuel (1 Liter) instead of degreaser prior water wash for underneath. FYI
Degreaser is a must! I have used Spray 9 and Simple Green with similar results. I spray everything down with my chosen cleaner, let it dry, then spray it all down again. Feel free to use an old toothbrush or other soft-bristled brush on stubborn spots. Finally, I use a gentle mist setting on my garden sprayer to rinse everything off. I then start the engine and let it dry the bay out. Tip: to prevent water from damaging components that aren't supposed to get wet, wrap them in aluminum foil while being CERTAIN you avoid touching the battery terminals with said foil.
A word of caution. I've cracked the exhaust manifold on two different vehicles by washing my engine in this way. Both after driving just a few blocks. The moral of this story is that it's a good idea to make sure exhaust manifolds are cool enough to touch before washing.
I used to work at a Ford dealership doing recon when I first started there, and we would do this to every trade-in that came into the place, along with a full wash and detail to get it as close to "new" looking as possible. We had a heated power washer, would only hit the engine bay for about a minute or so, not nearly as much as Eric seemed to, and then just wash the rest of the car to let the engine bay dry off a bit. Never caused a single issue except on 1 older car that had a wiring harness that was falling apart, but even that ended up being fine after sitting for just a little longer and I have done this to most of the cars I buy when I get them. You really do not need to go nuts with it, and most of the automatic carwashes now will spray the underside for you as well, just drive a little slower over it when it starts spraying the undercarriage and you can even back up a little and move forward again to really get the underside of the engine and trans clean too. Didn't realize this was a thing people didn't know about or do. And it makes working on the car so much nicer.
Been washing engines in my personal rides for over 40 years. With the exception of one cracked distributor cap in the 70s, have never experienced a problem. TIPS 1. Don't wash the engine when it's blistering hot. After an overnight cold start, drive immediately to the wash, or let the car sit for at least 20 minutes before washing. 2. Washer wands are powerful. Don't spray directly on the distributor or the alternator (or cover both with a rag). 3. Don't use car wash supplied engine cleaner. I've had some eat the shine off of aluminum valve covers and other connective parts. Buy from a parts store, Gumout or Simple Green, which are safe and effective. 4. After the engine drys, spray silicone on the rubber parts, and your engine will look like new.
Disconnect your battery then cover your alternator & battery with plastic bags. Spray scrubbing bubbles all over the engine bay, wait 15 min, rinse with hose. Repeat 1x more then let the car sit for a full day to dry out. Reconnect battery and drive off! Done this 3 times on different vehicles, 2 subarus and 1 integra... works like a charm.
VERY important to NEVER get too close to electrical parts with that much pressure. Keep that nozzle about 18 inches away, just like he did in the video.
I've been washing engines in all my vehicles for 20 years... never had a problem. I always use the low pressure "tire wash" setting as it has degreaser soap... I let that sit for a few minutes while I apply that same soap on the tires/rims/wheel wells... then I come back to the engine for rinse. I never use the high pressure rinse. Every one of these DIY car wash places I've been to have a low pressure rinse.. usually called "spot free rinse"... I use that low pressure rinse on the engine. Again... never ever had any issues.
Thanks ETCG! I like your videos like this. Berryman B-33 engine cleaner is what I recommend. It works great, isn't caustic, and you can just use your normal garden hose which greatly reduces the chance of forcing water into places where it shouldn't be. Cheers!
I've blasted mine out at the car wash in pretty much the same way. Never had much of an issue, except once when a little water found its way into the power steering res. Thankfully the res had a little plastic screen bucket in it that seemed to hold the water in place--there was a little strawberry milkshake in the screen, but the fluid was clean and clear below it and never caused a problem. So be careful around fluid caps, particularly vented ones.
I'm a Marine tech. I have washed hundreds of engines with degreaser and high pressure washers and have had no problems. That being said I bag carbs and air filters, distributors and anything important. I.e. ECU,s just in case. I've had many guys that worked under me that I haven't always had the time to watch over and they have washed lots and I mean lots of engine bays with little or no knowledge of how motors work and we have had no problems to my knowledge. As stated before I prefer to ere on the side of caution so wrap up sensitive parts is my motto. Good luck.
Could live in a small town in my home town a full tank could last you a month in a little car the furthest thing you could drive to is Walmart which 3 miles away lol just hitting friends houses and work it's possible but idk where he lives lol
If you had issues with wet components. Did you ever heard of an hairdryer! Or simply wait 'till the next day, it will be dry and fine... What a bunch of BS, a "new distributor/alternator" because you washed the engine! Come on! There's a reasonable limit for BS. No need to go over! >35 years washing most engines that ever crossed my path. Either mine or from clients. NEVER one single component was "lost". BTW the vast majority Peugeot/ Citroen/ Toyota/ Renault/ Mercedes/Fiat/Alfa... On occasion, there was some very rare hiccups (misfiring) from petrol engines. That vanish in the next couple of hours or in other words as soon as it dry. No need for BS stories!
hey Eric, I noticed something, on index 4:29 the odometer reads "101325 miles" and then you said, "One week later..." the odometer reads "101356 miles" which would mean you drove it for 31 miles. Please explain the difference.
I would be afraid to do what he did. When I do wash my engine, I do it in a controlled way. A bucket, water and a lot of towels. I know it is more trouble than it's worth, but that is me playing it safe. Yes I do use an engine degreaser and engine shine.
Also be careful of the cleaner used to take the greasy grime off. Some will remove or discolor the paint, and some will make the aluminum become discolored. Engine cleaners for older iron-block stuff isn't exactly great on the newer stuff.
i used to do this on all my Accords (just before the summer) being the last one is the 99 LX. i sprayed engine degreaser to it first then power wash it. Never had any problems, they always start. Now I have a 2011 Odyssey. I want to wash the engine but kinda hesitant.
I've been waiting for this video from a reputable source to come out. I stripped the paint off my valve cover (removed from head first) with high-pressure water and repainted it with rattle cans. Its was way easier than sanding, especially since the paint was alread coming off. came out pretty smooth. Sanded the wording to make it pop after the paint.
My mechanic hates dirty engines, especially when he is trying to find an oil leak, vacuum leak, etc. It's bad practice to leave your engine in a disgusting state for your mechanic. I use degreaser + a hose is plenty enough power (no need for pressure cleaners). Plastic over electronics and be careful with air intake / vents. Also you only did 30 miles in a week Eric
I have washed my engines many times on multiple of cars. One time i had an issue with an car that had old style ignition system. I fixed that by taking the ignition cap off and let that dry for a minute, put that back on and started the car. I always use oil removers, soak the engine in it and then use high pressure water to clean that off. After that I spray special engine polish over the engine bay.
Thanks for the video, Eric. Pump up Garden Sprayer. 1 gallon kerosene. 1 quart ATF. 1 cup Dawn dish soap. Shake together, shake well before using. Engine will be hot after drive to car wash. Spray cleaner, coating all surfaces. Brush heavy gunk as necessary. Wait 10-15 minutes. Start engine, keep it running. Power rinse from top down, even underneath if able to. When finished rinsing, drive normally 15-20 minutes to dry up water. The kerosene & soap will help to repel excess water. Use a "protectant" on plastics and rubber (Armor All, tire gel, etc.) and dressing on belts. Clean engines are easier to service, determine leaks, and run cooler.
The manual for my 03 Mitsubishi Carisma specifically states to wash the engine bay after every winter. Might be because roads are salted(yay) heavily in my country.
Well there are bunch of offroaders that dip their whole bonnet in deep puddles and their engines are fine, so i dont see the reason why you couldnt wash your engine bay
Well sure if your electrical connector are rubbish then sure yeah, or u dip your ECU into the puddle then, yeah, youre bound to have electrical issues, but as long as youre connectors are okay shape and your ECU isnt under the hood going down the river (or it is atleast in some sort of waterproof holster) you shouldnt be having any electrical issues and if you do, they dont happen months later, they happen then and there when the water is still a factor in this, the water should evaporate soon after re surfacing, like honestly, where could the water puddle hide for a month before it starts doing damage ? i would understand rust damage, but thats nowhere near electrical issue.
I have washed all my engine bays and engine blocks for years. No issues at all. I covered my alternator sometimes but really rare cause I figure if you can drive in partially deep puddle by mistake and the alternator is on the bottom end of the motor gets fully submerged with no issue later to speak of... then you are going to be fine. However you have to have the car running so if you get something in the intake it will not flood out.
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I thought to mention that I have washed engines for years and would like to suggest a couple of tips which have kept me out of trouble.
1. Wash with engine off - this is more of a safety issue (don’t want to accidently get the spray caught in moving parts - yea I know but, it happens
2. Never wash your engine if it’s extremely hot. I always drive it just enough to warm it to operating temp. If a hot day wait with hood open to let engine cool
3. Cover that alternator. It is designed to live in the real world but try not to soak it.
4. Pretreatment is highly recommended unless engine is just dusty - this will shorten the spry time
5. When washing over electrical components release the trigger to get a softer spray
6. After your done take the car out for a 15 -20 min drive. This will dry everything faster to avoid problems with water seeping into things
7.
Finally, thank you Eric!!! for helping all of us be better techs (even better shade tree mechanics like me ;-) - hope you guys find this helpful
Thanks for the tips. A friend of mine recommended using the wax option. What do you think? 🤔
@@casz7098 I would suggest avoiding any spay wax. If you want to polish plastic parts use the "back to Black" treatment on a shop rag then apply a couple of coats seems to work for me. Hope that helps a bit. Thanks again for all of your videos - I am learning a lot from you.
@@richardsoto9615 definitely helps. Thank you.
"You want to be careful of the electrical components"
*sprays water on every electrical component and the battery*
I seriously think you are one of the worst people that exists.
@@0utcast he obviously states what you shouldn't do, but that doesn't mean he'll do what he advises not to, on his own vehicles numbnuts.
HAAHHAHA I thought the same
@@0utcast the way you're going off in your comments says a lot more about YOU than your comments say about chris. Fuck off outta here if you don't like the mans content. Pathetic little bitch.
@@0utcast Apparently you've never had fun with vehicles. Engines run under water hence the reason there are snorkels for vehicles. If your engine has issues after something as simple as washing it then you need to fix your blown out stuff.
Back in 98 I bought a brand new Civic. Drove it for 14 years and after every winter I power washed the engine. Never had any problems. Not once.I guess... do at your own risk.Thank you for the video.
What I've learned is that Honda, Toyota, and General Motor vehicles are the best for washing the engine bays. They seemed to have figured out the water sealing practice almost perfectly.
Sadly the worst by a long shot is Dodge and Range Rover. I've also noticed that some Jaguar's tend to fail but that was on like only two or three of them.
I used to wash my engine in my 2000 Infiniti I30 every year. Near had any issues from doing that.
Kenji still have the car?
You drove the same car for 14 yrs! Wow! That’s pretty cool 😊
Yep. I replaced the Civic with a new car and I am driving this one 11th year. Cars are a waste of money. Buy the best one you can. Take care of it and drive it to the end.
UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust ruclips.net/user/postUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
Working as a detailer in both an auto auction and collision center I feel compelled to give a few tips:
1, be aware of how long you are hosing your engines off. The longer you are in the engine bay, the more likely you are to potentially damage things.
2, spraying the bay in an H-pattern (start by standing next to the left fender and spraying everything at that angle, then front bumper area, and finish from the right fender) seems to work best for overall coverage of the bay.
3, if you own a Dodge Ram or Range Rover of ANY model, do NOT wash your engine bay with water! THERE ARE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS THAT ARE NOT SEALED VERY WELL AND IF THEY GET WET THE WATER WILL CAUSE THE MAIN COMPUTER TO FAIL COSTING YOU THOUSANDS. The best way to wash those vehicles are by using a degreaser-type spray cleaner and rags. If you still want to risk washing them, do so with light amounts of water and at your own desegregation.
4, do not wash the engine more than twice a year. Doing so will cause premature failure to gaskets, hoses, and lightweight plastic. I had several air hoses on my old pathfinder crack and fail from washing the engine bay too often and learned this tip from that mistake lol.
5, try to let your engine cool off some before you wash it, ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE COLD WATER. If not it will raise the risk of the engine block cracking and/or failing.
6, please wear safety glasses and older clothes. Doing so will prevent things like paint (see Eric's engine), oil, rust, and other debris from getting into your eyes. Also, wearing the older clothes will lower the chance of ruining good clothes from oils and solvents as they splash onto you, which I promise, will happen. :-)
Mike P
Great advice, thank you.
Mike P huh, i do the opposite of everything you recommend and have never had an issue.
Consider yourself fortunate
Jess Osborn do you avoid puddles and driving in rain storms? parking next to sprinklers?
No, of course I don't avoid puddles, and I drive in rain storms and am not afraid of sprinklers. His advice is still sound.
Next video : How to diagnose electric faults caused by water
Paweł Be 😩😂😂😂😂
Lmao fr right...
I'm wondering why the engine is weaker without covering the cirucurs and open wires
@@defaultuser9273 indeed lol
Oh btw guys engines are made waterproof because water gets in them when it rains😂he’s using a pressure washer for gods sake he is blasting it with like 500-1000 psi no shit it’s gonna fault the electrical
"Be careful all around these sensitive parts."
*Blasts sensitive parts with pressure washer*
My thoughts too
😂
Scotty Kilmer cried watching this.
Asfand Ashraf me too 😭😭😭😭
Don't do it your car won't start after you do that
Lunacy
Asfand Ashraf hahahahahahahha
Lol I just came from watching his video
You forgot to flood the fuse box.
😂
😂😂😂😂😂
😂
Makes it go faster I think.
No james... 3:24. He did not forget
Video title: "how to wash your engine"
actual content:"this is my first time trying this"
when i wash my engine compartment I cover sensitive electronic components with plastic, disconnecting the battery also and blast compressed air to help it dry. i dont use pressurized water because it forces water too much. Then i drive the car for a time.
jim c Yea this was the perfect video on how NOT to wash an engine , He didnt even cover the alternator or fuse box. SMH
jim c. I am usually very reluctant to wash the engine; but when it's necessary, I make sure the engine is warm (not hot = no cracking things) to help dry the pockets of water and never use high pressure on electrical boxes/connections.
well aren't you special!
If you drive your car in the rain, you can bet your ass your engine compartment gets wet (this is why electrical connectors have the rubber seals inside them, weatherproof for a reason). Some cars have the alternator mounted at the bottom, like my G8, and it's just fine in the rain. On top of that, after doing everything you're afraid of, Eric's Integra still runs just fine. :shocking:
Jeff Smith Eric did say proceed with caution. theres also a difference between driving a car in the rain and having your whole engine compartment from being hosed on top. Some do get lucky some dont =]
I detail cars and I always use a pair washer on the engine bay but I do not spray that close. I soak it with degreaser leave it dwell for about 3 to 4 minutes then spray it off from about a for to a foot and a half back then dry with a blower. Never had any problems and always have squeaky clean engine bays.
I live on a dirt road. Washing the underhood of my vehicles is a nearly a monthly routine.. Doesn't hurt a thing, just use common sense as to what you are spraying.. Easy enough.
Yep! If you have a clue what's under the hood, then you should have some idea what NOT to get wet. Use plastic bags or something to cover those areas, if necessary. It's not hard.
That said, I personally prefer to use Simple Green and a power washer. Set the spray tip for a "fan" spray, and you shouldn't have to worry as much about forcing water into stuff.
The Kansas Dude yea think of cars like a Subaru wrx or any car with a scoop water can get on the engine all the time it's not a big deal
The Kansas Dude Yeah, I drove through a dust storm and HAD to wash the engine bay. if your car can't handle a little water, that company should just stop producing cars.
I agree Dodge should stop producing cars haha. Seriously though, if any company needs to learn the meaning of weatherproof, Dodge does. Their connectors seem to corrode worse than any other company and they place computers in super vulnerable spots.
Sensible comment. Awesome to hear and cudos. I’m sure the technicians are thankful for people like you, I know I am
Spent years as a professional detailer and always used the high pressure spray for cleaning engines. Never experienced any issues with modern engines, but older 4 cyl engines with the plug/coil on top of the engine can be a problem. Usually water entering the spark plug hole. This is easily remedied by blowing out or vacuuming the water out. And you don't want the alternator to get wet, so cover it with Saran wrap or a plastic bag. Protecting the engine chemically after cleaning is an important step too. Helps keep it clean and combating elements. I recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant or McKee's 37 Trim Detailer as a finisher.
The oil and grease keeps rust away
But the rust keeps the metal away!
drink15 i don't get it
So does tire dressing.....which I put on my engine compartment a few times a year and a good soaking in the fall. It is silicone, keeps the salt from destroying everything, keeps rubber and plastic parts from degrading.
You've revealed what I thought was my well kept secret.
1marcelfilms yea I try to tell folks that caked on grease is a preservative But no one listens.
When I wash my engine, I start with the engine cold, then spray a good dose (can or two depending on the dirt) of a good degreaser and let it soak for a while, then rinse it off well, then start it to let it get hot and dry off. Works good. Just be careful of the air box and fuses.
Eric, I love it when you answer a question I unconsciously had, but forgot to ask. 👍
I used to work for a used dealership/detailing shop and the owner would do this to every car they got in with heavy duty pressure washer. Entire engine bay would get swamped with degreaser and he had this low acid cleaner for exposed metal. Then, the interiors would get soaked with a brush and a bucket, electronics and all and he would blast it out with an air compressor. For 2 years, this felt wrong every time but, as far as I could tell, it never caused an issue and they looked much better. That man could buff $1000 into a 10 year old paint job.
I've always wash my engine once a year. . . . . right after winter. Keeps the grime down and keeps my hands clean when I have to work on anything. Also its worth mentioning Purple Power or Simple Green works far better than the stuff that comes in the can. Just rinse the engine off first like you did than spray everything with your cleaner and let soak for a good 15 minutes before rinsing again. Works awesome.
TheTarrMan Careful with Purple Power, leave it on too long on aluminum with start to "eat away" at the surface. I've read threads where PP ruined anything aluminum if not washed off quickly enough. In my '92 Celica I only left it on for less than 10min and it tarnished the surface significantly.
dollar tree
"L.A.'s totally awesome"
a degreaser that i use all the time, not yet on engine.
You can dilute it for household use, but it says on the bottle to use it at full strength to degrease an engine.
well, use purple power brand FOR CAR, not the industrial one. EX: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/superclean-degreaser-946-ml-0392965p.html#srp
David Ravitch this stuff works great
wolfstar just leave on no more then 10 min. I drive my car just over to car wash and let it sit to cool down a bit, 10 min while I eat something. Get out spray set timer. What I do is use the spot free rinse to wash and just go over everything never let the water sit in one spot. All I do is cover my dizzy, just be smart around wiring etc.
I washed my engine, i paid the price. Not the price for the wash, but the price for a new engine.
Wauw damn
Is that because you tried to wash the inside of the engine?
I wash mine all the time and I have a plug to coil deep socket engine the worst to clean I simply spray degreeser on the sides of the engine and on the rag and wipe on the top never had a problem never used water
WHAT????
@Farina Marcini no but I would bang a girl from England
"You don't want to add water to something that you don't want to add water to..." Most shops charge for this kind of advice, folks.
That's awesome. I did a video on this topic and got water in some expired crappy plug wires in a straight 4 with deep plug wells. Misfires ensued, so I used the opportunity to show how to correct it. Glad it worked out for you. I do this practice all the time as a clean freak and have had results like you show here 99.999% of the time. Basically if the parts that keep water out are good, you're good. If those parts are bad or fail, you've got work to do with an air nozzle.
I'm glad it worked out too. Thanks for the input Brian.
People say washing the engine is a bad idea. Yes, it is a bad idea when you don't know how to do it properly. This video somewhat covers the basics, which is avoiding electronic and ignition stuff, but there are a few things that were not mentioned. These are:
-Covering intake ports. Sometimes in order to have a better overall reach for your pressure washer, you need to remove your air filter. It is mandatory to cover those places up.
- Same goes for fuse boxes and cars equipped with mechanical distributors. Cover them up in plastic bags, and when done with the engine, manually clean the part. In fact, there are many cars that have an icon on their engine bay fuse boxes that say you should not pressure-wash them.
- NEVER wash a hot engine. Sudden temp changes in things such as coil packs are instant murder for them.
- Keep your distance. Don't get that nozzle too close to sensitive parts, wires, etc.
- Don't stay in one place for too long, keep on moving the nozzle. The water pressure is for you to rinse off grime and gunk fast and easy. You're not supposed to "scrub" stuff with the jet stream, or let it sit for it to remove sludge or other hardened junk. This is the main reason why issues come up for a lot of people.
- In order to comply with my previous point, it is mandatory to use degreaser strong enough to remedy the current situation of your engine dirtiness. You're supposed to apply degreaser, let it sit for a bit and rinse the engine. Repeat as necessary. For stubborn spots, manually scrub with proper tools.
A lot of coin-operated car washes have engine degreaser, and the ones I've used it in, the degreaser is waay too good. I even use it on the tires and they get really clean with no scrubbing needed on the tire.
VochoTalacha
Bryce, grease acts as an insulator, which makes your engine not cool effectively.
You obviously don't work on cars do you?
Is that really the best you could come up with? I can already tell what your intelligence level is.
Lol, I own a Ram 1500, and there isn't one sticker on there, nice try though. Besides, yes they're water cooled, but if there is 2 inches of grease buildup on the outside of the engine, that'll hold in heat a little longer, than if it weren't there at all. Have you ever felt an engine block while warm, the outside is hot, therefore if the block is clean, it can cool off the block faster.
I've had great results with S-100 motorcycle cleaner for cleaning the engine bay. Let it sit a minute, and it drastically reduces the time spent spraying pressurized water into possibly sensitive components. Only problem I've had is water getting into a spark plug well, so avoid spraying too much near those.
Just discovered Eric TheCarGuy on youtube today. He's a great resource for every topic I've seen. Two thumbs up!
What is it with people and dirty engines? It's perfectly safe to do so, if you have a mechanical thing designed to run in all weather exposed to the outside world and it goes bad to a few sprinkles of water, then it has a problem and it needs to be fixed. All electrical connections are water-proofed and the engine itself is an isolated machine with no connection to the outside other than the air intake and exhaust.
If I was a mechanic I'd charge extra for working on dirty engines.
*water resistant
Try submerging your engine bay in a lake and see how that works out for you. Electrical connections are designed to be okay from light mists and sprays due to rain getting in through the grills as well as water bouncing up from the ground. That does not mean that they are designed to withstand a constantly stream of water or a high PSI of water being jet blasted directly onto them. Further even if the connectors do work after you run the risk of shortening their life span as water proofing degrades over time (same reason we repair and rebuild dams). Consider that water is not the problem but all the minerals and contaminants that it contains. Those minerals build up in the connectors over time.
@@Luckingsworth "Try submerging your engine bay in a lake ".. are you a moron? No shit sherlock that causes the intake to be submerged too. How is that equivalent to washing an engine bay? Power washing =/= submerging in a lake.
Everything else you said was massive bs ('dangerous mineral deposits' forming after 1 clean or 1-2 cleans a yr? lmao!) and made up arm chair theorizing. Stop misinforming people if u have no idea wtf you're talking about.
@@octavian3287 I think you're missing the point, in fact i'de say you're the moron. The point is that forcing water and soaking water is what causes damage. That's why you gotta cover certain parts and do certain parts individual with spraying water.
@@Luckingsworth- Clueless! You have no idea what your talking about. :-(
@@crpth1 Then please upload a video of you submerging your engine parts in water and see how well it runs after.
I have always washed my engines this way. use the soap setting, it helps. I also leave the engine running while washing.
I prefer an engine cleaner/degreaser first (on a warm engine), followed by a low-pressure rinse and then using compressed air to blow off the excess water.
I think this is exactly the way to go. I used Purple Power on my engine bay, and rinsed with water at the lowest pressure setting that I could. I let the engine air dry for about an hour, and it still runs well.
Compressed air can force the water into electrical connections though
I wash my engine at home with a garden hose and nozzle so the pressure is not too high, I don't think I would trust a pressure washer like that. I'll only do it after the car has sat overnight and is cold so I don't risk cracking or damaging anything. I spray foaming degreaser on everything, agitate it with a scrub brush to loosen the grease and grime. Then I leave it sit for 15-20 minutes and hose everything off really good. Sometimes I give it two coats of degreaser if it is really dirty. Then I let it drip dry for half an hour and then start it up and let it run for 15 minutes to dry everything out. Then once it's cooled I lightly coat everything with engine shine to make it look really good. Done this over 5 times with my 2002 Saturn SL and never had any problems with it afterwards.
Perfect. You should make a video and it should replace this video.
vehicle electronics are water resistant to a degree....
resistant not waterproof :0
even a hose could put enough pressure to cause issues i guess
Yeah, supposedly, you're supposed to unplug the battery, and cover all the electronics with bags and tape (old Merc maintenance manual).
The connectors are IP rated.
They are normally IP67.
But that does not mean using a 1200psi pressure washer on them is a smart idea.
"resistant to a degree" is kindof redundant isn't it?
It's like Scotty Kilmer said about washing the engine..."you don't eat your lunch under there!!" That being said been washing my engine for years. I like it looking clean.
If you are going to wash your engine put a plastic grocery bag over electrical components like the ignition system and fuse box etc
i don't even know where that stuff is, nor do i know what a fuse box is. that's why i don't touch my engine
hahaha. consult your users manual.
Eric drives a 98-01 Integra GSR, 101k miles with black leather interior?!? What a fuckin gem that is! That just made you a million times cooler in my book Eric! Thanks for all your awesome videos sir
When washing an engine I like to wait untill the engine is cool to the touch, then spray my degreaser on all the parts of the engine, I then let it sit for a couple of minutes before I take a brush and agitate, I apply more degreaser as needed. Then after I feel I've covered the whole engine I use the mist of the pressureewasher ( keeping it at about 50cm away from any part I'm rinsing. and make sure to remove any residue from the cleaner. You can then use a dressing for rubber/vinyl or similar to make the engine easier to clean the next time. You should however also cover the fusebox, alternator and electrical connections with plastic (shopping bag works great) before you start. I haven't but I would recommend it.
One of my cars caught on fire, and the engine was a grease ball. I put it out with an extinguisher and drove it home, the powder in the extinguisher soaked up the grease and on a hot engine it hosed all off no problem. Now it's amazingly clean.
What I learned was fire extinguishers are the best degreaser.
next integra vibeo "how to paint a valve cover" how many of you agree??
I painted my 04 TL's head covers & intake plenum cover with Rust-Oleum's caliper paint (red). This paint does not require primer, and is very robust. Brakes get hotter than engine so there is no concern for high-heat (except for exhaust components).
Honda's head cover paint is notorious for deteriorating, as well as head cover seal allowing engine oil to leak.
i cant wait for another integra video. as a teggy owner it's nice to see videos from one of the best mechanic youtubers out there
alfacart garage lol, I get my retired greyhound to do that and upload, he's a smart boy!
As long as it keeps the oil in I'm fine with it.
EricTheCarGuy that is the way and im .if it work dont touch it
Basic step
1. Cover up important parts such as fuse box, distributor, abs sensor, throttle body sensor (depends on type of engine)
2. Spray a degreaser, rest for 3 minutes (don't use water)
3. Spray a car shampoo
4. Brush all parts that u can reach by hand by using detail brush
5. Use low pressure of water and clean the bay
6. Use blower/air compressor to remove stagnant water
7. Rest for 2 or 3 hours
8. Start your engine
Good luck
We pressure wash every engine/engine compartment/power-train before performing any work unless it is already very clean and again after the work is performed the engine/engine compartment/power-train is pressure washed and then the vehicle exterior is washed, windows/mirrors cleaned and interior vacuumed unless the owner specifically instructs not to wash the exterior/windows/mirrors and vacuum.
We usually have no issues from pressure washing the engine/power-train.
The few instances with issues are usually ignition related and due to pre-existing defective components such as old leaking plug wires, cracked coil or cracked cap.
Manufacturers design and engineer the equipment in the engine compartment and exterior to be water/weather resistant mechanically and electrically.
That does not mean the vehicle can be safely submerged or abused without consequences.
Most every US vehicle manufactured since 1985 must conform to an IEC/SAE/ISO/NEMA ingress/intrusion prevention spec and that since 1996 that spec is generally IP65/66/67.
IP67 states "Water projected in powerful jets (12.5 mm nozzle) against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects".
'nuff said.
You automatically wash engines but ask permission for a regular car wash? 🤨🤨🤨🤨🤨🤨🤨
andy fumo don’t want to fuck up someone’s paint
Honestly, I can't beleive you made this video. I wash my engine twice a year. Granted, I always protect intake and major electronic components such as the ECU, Starter or Alternator. Its NEEDED when the country you live in uses salt in the winter as the salt can do more damage to the engine bay than ANY wash will ever do. If your car experiences problems after washing it is probably because the part that went wrong was already weak. All connectors and most parts under the hood are water tight. I have done this on multiple cars and for years always with success. Parts that did fail after a wash I knew were due.
Eric cleaned something! Must be drunk
gil zur just desperate for views :)
I've been asked to make a video about this for like 6 years now. I figured it was time.
So Eric do you consider changing your catchphrase to Stay Clean now? :P
or he had the shits...31 miles in one week for a "car guy??" (4:33)...
EricTheCarGuy Lol
Nooooo to the pressure washing. Spray on some cleaner, let it do it's thing. Rinse with a light spray from a hose. You're done.
Something feels wrong about powerhosing an engine bay
Cause you're a dumbass
@@jobdoneright5934 That was an intelligent retort.
@@da324 defending your boyfriend?
@@jobdoneright5934 The defense rests.
@@da324 go away troll
i've washed my engine on my 02 sonata v6 plenty of times, never had a problem. glad to see your integra is running smooth
Did you have to cover anything up or did you just spray wash it n call it a day??
Well the one time I did pressure wash my car it was a caddy and somehow water got in the fuel line or something and it n stuttered for almost a week(kept cutting off) they almost had to disconnect the gas lines and blow air through it to get all the water out of there intake
@@BirdFromYakiVegas i just spray washed it and called it a day, it really depends on the vehicle though. A lot of the newer gm cars have a computer sitting on top of the battery, but in a plastic cover, so if u brushed past it with a power washer, then u will be o.k., but if you were hitting direct pressure where the harnesses connect together, or power washing over where lines connect (fuel lines to injectors or fuel rails for instance) then u can have an issue. On my 1988 monte carlo ss, i would take different precautions cleaning under the hood of that vs my chevy trailblazer. I would put a bag around the carb and around certain electrical connections and opening to the intake. So it really depends. Hope your car got fixed though.
I tried but because i was too nervous i ended up covering the entire engine bay instead of just covering the alternator, distributor and battery. So i just ended up washing the wheels. What a life.
Been washing my engines for decades because I hate working in the filth, never had one problem other than a little miss once in a while that went away after a few minutes. TheReaper!
you can also cover what you don't want wet with aluminum foil
I always make sure my engine is warm enough before i wash it. i put engine soap and wash it with warm water and be wary around spark plugs . the water can go into them and electical plugs,and around the equitment used for the transmission . then i brush warm air and let it sit for 10mintues with closed bonnet. works every time for me.
i mainly do it in the spring time. to wash of salt and sand which was used on the roads
My OCD is so happy right now! Thanks EricTheCarGuy!
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If you're washing the engine bay of a much older truck, such as a 70's maybe early 80s for example you dont have to worry as much. Wrap around the carb and breather and distributor cap and seal it as much as you can maybe wrap the alternator or cover the battery up and your good. That's the one thing I love about the much older trucks. They dont have all the electronics and more sensitive parts the more modern cars do
"A week later" 30 miles.. shit, I drive more than that one way to school
Now I am assuming this was a long while ago, however, if you still have this car, a cheap turbo install would really spread the good word of your channel. In fact, when I look for answers fixing things and search RUclips, if anytime its one of your videos, I just watch yours first now because you've always got the answer correctly done. Thank you for your service to the public like myself.
Just cover up the sensitive parts you're good. I've washed all my engines and never any issues
What parts should I cover 2014 odyssey touring? The engine is very dirty from city driving lol.
Robert cover your alternator, starter, distributor, air intake... use common sense/judgment. Don’t spray electric connectors too long. Work as quickly as possible! It’s kinda scary. I’ve done it before, but it always makes me nervous. I might do my boat’s engine today. Good luck.
@@strobaholic will do my good friend, fingers crossed 🤙
@@strobaholic and thank you for taking the time out of your day to answer my question. 🤗🤗
Robert you’re welcome. I just did my boat’s engine, following my own advice. Engine and bilge look brand new again. I blew away the excess standing water with my leaf blower and I ran an old attic window fan over the engine for a few hours. And one more thing... don’t forget to remove the battery!
In my country, you *have* to wash the engine before the bi-yearly car inspection. The problem is that water damage can then occur much much later, alternator damage, electronics etc
I have been washing my engine for 30 plus years, I would not have it any other way. Every spring you could eat off my engine. It was made for the elements, it always amazes me how people don't take care of the Engine compartment. I watch many repair videos and I say.. Lots of nastiness.. It's all water hardy, two cans of good engine cleaner and a hose and You and the engine will be happy. Add to that you don't have to deal with all the nasties when you have to work on it... An engine compartment afraid of water..?!? Give me a break..
Curiosity
Me too. Soap and water simple.
I wash my Chevy express cutaways also all the time . Sometimes even with soap water and nothing ever happened to them.
Rather than just blasting it with soap and water which i do feel could create problems i just use a bucket of soap, water and clean one bit at a time, takes longer but less risk
I wash my engine regularly keep it clean
If you're going to do this, do it before your fluid changes. Oil, Transmission, power steering, brake fluid. If there are any open spaces that will take on water, you don't want water moving around in any of those components, so I'd recommend flushing or draining and filling fluids.
don't try this on a Ford, unless you want to walk home.
Boonus18 ive been doing it monthly, sometimes more for about 15 years. hasn't caused an issue yet.
Boonus18 haha so true. i did this on my old mustang, and f150. had to blow the coils n plugs with compressed air. but my lbz, tl and silverado isn't a problem. idk why.
IF you have a distributor,PAY ATTENTION!
I recently just acquired a 02 Explorer V8 4.6 and washed the engine. Luckily I didn't screw it up like a lot of people do because I did it 5 miles from home lol
Boonus18 lol
Nice work ETCG. I like clean, number one reason is it helps prevent stuff falling into places i dont want it to fall when working on the car.
Heres my actual input, I hope its useful:
- Bring tin foil to car wash, tinfoil around/over/under things you want to protect. Way easier than plastic and ties/tape/rubber bands.
- Flashlight = helpful to see if youve washed stuff and where youre spraying.
- If youre at home, put car on ramps or jack it up and take off wheels. Get ready to lay in water and get backsprayed as you wash under/sides.
- Use short blasts near the sensitive area.
- Set the car wash to sparkle/spot-free rinse when you are rinsing dust. It's clean fresh water at lower pressure, helps to not leave water marks on aluminum/plastic etc.
- Do not soap or high pressure spray your hood insulator mat. It will take forever to rinse out, and it may rip from high pressure.
- Briansmobile has it right, use the air nozzle or rags to dry areas where water might pool. Dont use air near electrical puddles, use the rag or the Bart Simpson rag-on-a-stick.
I appreciate any comments or additions to the list! :)
Stay gold.
Done it for decades on all my cars. Never had one problem.
When the car is new, coat everything with something like 303 protectant and it won't oxidize as get coated with junk in the first place.
Dear Eric, after engine pressure wash at our end they ran an air pressure all around the engine to expel any sort of trapped water specially around distributor , spark plugs and cables , electrical connectors and to dry the engine. Usually when the car does not start it is either the water accessed to the distributor or to air intake or purge valve (if there is a leaky air hose or cracked hose tip). in such cases they open the distributor under the sun and dry it with compressed air, so as the air intake and filter. Another tip is to avoid direct water pressure on alternators as this may cause a damage to it in certain models. Basically if the car is over 10 years and have high mileage or if the car's engine have a signs of tampered with (like engine change or major mechanical or electrical changes) then you should never do it except at your home to avoid being stranded. In all cases such practice should be done in summer only. Another important wash is underneath the car by lifting it on hoist (there is car wash stations do that) and this process will refresh the suspension, inner wheels, wheel housings, oil pans, exhaust pipe connections from accumulated debris and will in some cases remove certain suspension squeaks. Some use diesel fuel (1 Liter) instead of degreaser prior water wash for underneath. FYI
2 weeks later: Hey eric my car isnt starting and my car keeps stalling and i smell burning plastic
Degreaser is a must! I have used Spray 9 and Simple Green with similar results. I spray everything down with my chosen cleaner, let it dry, then spray it all down again. Feel free to use an old toothbrush or other soft-bristled brush on stubborn spots. Finally, I use a gentle mist setting on my garden sprayer to rinse everything off. I then start the engine and let it dry the bay out. Tip: to prevent water from damaging components that aren't supposed to get wet, wrap them in aluminum foil while being CERTAIN you avoid touching the battery terminals with said foil.
A word of caution. I've cracked the exhaust manifold on two different vehicles by washing my engine in this way. Both after driving just a few blocks. The moral of this story is that it's a good idea to make sure exhaust manifolds are cool enough to touch before washing.
I used to work at a Ford dealership doing recon when I first started there, and we would do this to every trade-in that came into the place, along with a full wash and detail to get it as close to "new" looking as possible. We had a heated power washer, would only hit the engine bay for about a minute or so, not nearly as much as Eric seemed to, and then just wash the rest of the car to let the engine bay dry off a bit. Never caused a single issue except on 1 older car that had a wiring harness that was falling apart, but even that ended up being fine after sitting for just a little longer and I have done this to most of the cars I buy when I get them.
You really do not need to go nuts with it, and most of the automatic carwashes now will spray the underside for you as well, just drive a little slower over it when it starts spraying the undercarriage and you can even back up a little and move forward again to really get the underside of the engine and trans clean too. Didn't realize this was a thing people didn't know about or do. And it makes working on the car so much nicer.
When washing my ls1 I use my wife's old shower hair caps and cover the ignition coils.. But never had any issues in last 6 years
Been washing engines in my personal rides for over 40 years. With the exception of one cracked distributor cap in the 70s, have never experienced a problem.
TIPS
1. Don't wash the engine when it's blistering hot. After an overnight cold start, drive immediately to the wash, or let the car sit for at least 20 minutes before washing.
2. Washer wands are powerful. Don't spray directly on the distributor or the alternator (or cover both with a rag).
3. Don't use car wash supplied engine cleaner. I've had some eat the shine off of aluminum valve covers and other connective parts. Buy from a parts store, Gumout or Simple Green, which are safe and effective.
4. After the engine drys, spray silicone on the rubber parts, and your engine will look like new.
Some car washes have the option to high pressure hot water de-greaser settings.
Disconnect your battery then cover your alternator & battery with plastic bags.
Spray scrubbing bubbles all over the engine bay, wait 15 min, rinse with hose. Repeat 1x more then let the car sit for a full day to dry out. Reconnect battery and drive off!
Done this 3 times on different vehicles, 2 subarus and 1 integra... works like a charm.
VERY important to NEVER get too close to electrical parts with that much pressure. Keep that nozzle about 18 inches away, just like he did in the video.
⭐ Astral Auto Repairs hell nah he's much closer than 18 inches
Edgar Manzo tbh 💀
I've been washing engines in all my vehicles for 20 years... never had a problem. I always use the low pressure "tire wash" setting as it has degreaser soap... I let that sit for a few minutes while I apply that same soap on the tires/rims/wheel wells... then I come back to the engine for rinse. I never use the high pressure rinse. Every one of these DIY car wash places I've been to have a low pressure rinse.. usually called "spot free rinse"... I use that low pressure rinse on the engine. Again... never ever had any issues.
Thanks ETCG! I like your videos like this. Berryman B-33 engine cleaner is what I recommend. It works great, isn't caustic, and you can just use your normal garden hose which greatly reduces the chance of forcing water into places where it shouldn't be. Cheers!
I've blasted mine out at the car wash in pretty much the same way. Never had much of an issue, except once when a little water found its way into the power steering res. Thankfully the res had a little plastic screen bucket in it that seemed to hold the water in place--there was a little strawberry milkshake in the screen, but the fluid was clean and clear below it and never caused a problem. So be careful around fluid caps, particularly vented ones.
hey eric, you missed crissfix technique how ro clean your engine bay!
@@tmr8193 why?
I'm a Marine tech. I have washed hundreds of engines with degreaser and high pressure washers and have had no problems. That being said I bag carbs and air filters, distributors and anything important. I.e. ECU,s just in case. I've had many guys that worked under me that I haven't always had the time to watch over and they have washed lots and I mean lots of engine bays with little or no knowledge of how motors work and we have had no problems to my knowledge. As stated before I prefer to ere on the side of caution so wrap up sensitive parts is my motto. Good luck.
Mileage at time of washing 101325
One week later. 101356 You don't drive very much.
Bet he recorded the video in the same day
Could live in a small town in my home town a full tank could last you a month in a little car the furthest thing you could drive to is Walmart which 3 miles away lol just hitting friends houses and work it's possible but idk where he lives lol
ThatBoy Zee the guy drove one mile in a “week” lol there’s no way in hell unless he drives the car to his next door neighbor everyday
@@Reply_if_you_r_homosexual he drove 31 miles tho in a week
ThatBoy Zee exactly what I’m saying!!! His neighbor must be 36 miles away
I've spray washed my Chev LS engine 2-3 times a year for nearly 20 years and it's never caused a problem.
md65000 i’m debating whether i do it to mine or not
did this to a 1993 Camry.. new distributor and alternator later, it's like new again, with a new alternator and distributor!
If you had issues with wet components. Did you ever heard of an hairdryer! Or simply wait 'till the next day, it will be dry and fine... What a bunch of BS, a "new distributor/alternator" because you washed the engine! Come on! There's a reasonable limit for BS. No need to go over!
>35 years washing most engines that ever crossed my path. Either mine or from clients. NEVER one single component was "lost". BTW the vast majority Peugeot/ Citroen/ Toyota/ Renault/ Mercedes/Fiat/Alfa... On occasion, there was some very rare hiccups (misfiring) from petrol engines. That vanish in the next couple of hours or in other words as soon as it dry. No need for BS stories!
hey Eric, I noticed something, on index 4:29 the odometer reads "101325 miles" and then you said, "One week later..." the odometer reads "101356 miles" which would mean you drove it for 31 miles. Please explain the difference.
"some of you said my engine is dirty but it's mostly just dirt". °_° oh really???!!?
Done this to a Toyota Camry it was a 99 washed the engine back in 2012 and it still run excellent hasnt had a fault or some kind of electrical short.
if you have a bmw there is absolutly no risk to washing your engine. i wash about 10 a day with a pressure washer never had a problem
Haven't seen Eric's live AMAs in a while. Has he stopped doing those?
I would be afraid to do what he did.
When I do wash my engine, I do it in a controlled way. A bucket, water and a lot of towels. I know it is more trouble than it's worth, but that is me playing it safe.
Yes I do use an engine degreaser and engine shine.
Chris fix RUclips channel has the best how to wash your engine ive seen.
Also be careful of the cleaner used to take the greasy grime off. Some will remove or discolor the paint, and some will make the aluminum become discolored. Engine cleaners for older iron-block stuff isn't exactly great on the newer stuff.
i used to do this on all my Accords (just before the summer) being the last one is the 99 LX. i sprayed engine degreaser to it first then power wash it. Never had any problems, they always start. Now I have a 2011 Odyssey. I want to wash the engine but kinda hesitant.
i love how eric is so effing JDM yo! Subscribed
I've been waiting for this video from a reputable source to come out. I stripped the paint off my valve cover (removed from head first) with high-pressure water and repainted it with rattle cans. Its was way easier than sanding, especially since the paint was alread coming off. came out pretty smooth. Sanded the wording to make it pop after the paint.
Check out how to do it properly by Chris Fix.
My mechanic hates dirty engines, especially when he is trying to find an oil leak, vacuum leak, etc. It's bad practice to leave your engine in a disgusting state for your mechanic. I use degreaser + a hose is plenty enough power (no need for pressure cleaners). Plastic over electronics and be careful with air intake / vents. Also you only did 30 miles in a week Eric
Your washing for your mechanic? If it's necessary, let him/her wash it.
I have washed my engines many times on multiple of cars. One time i had an issue with an car that had old style ignition system. I fixed that by taking the ignition cap off and let that dry for a minute, put that back on and started the car. I always use oil removers, soak the engine in it and then use high pressure water to clean that off. After that I spray special engine polish over the engine bay.
all professional detailers clean and detail the engine bay FULLY,before returning to the customer
OMG!!!!! AFTER WATCHING YOUR VIDEO I ALSO WASHED MY ENGINE!!!!! and everything turned out fine. thanks
It's a Honda, what did you expect? Try doing this on a French or Italian car...
Thanks for the video, Eric. Pump up Garden Sprayer. 1 gallon kerosene. 1 quart ATF. 1 cup Dawn dish soap. Shake together, shake well before using. Engine will be hot after drive to car wash. Spray cleaner, coating all surfaces. Brush heavy gunk as necessary. Wait 10-15 minutes. Start engine, keep it running. Power rinse from top down, even underneath if able to. When finished rinsing, drive normally 15-20 minutes to dry up water. The kerosene & soap will help to repel excess water. Use a "protectant" on plastics and rubber (Armor All, tire gel, etc.) and dressing on belts. Clean engines are easier to service, determine leaks, and run cooler.
Don't worry about it
I wash my engine all the time
And no issues.......
The manual for my 03 Mitsubishi Carisma specifically states to wash the engine bay after every winter. Might be because roads are salted(yay) heavily in my country.
please wash your gm truck engines! i love replacing the knock sensors and harness under the intake!
Yep been their done that. When I replaced mine I put a bead of high temp gasket maker around the caps the wire goes through
Facts clean engines always run better you just have to know what you're doing when washing it. Thanks for the video
Well there are bunch of offroaders that dip their whole bonnet in deep puddles and their engines are fine, so i dont see the reason why you couldnt wash your engine bay
Rotming it may seam like that but they usually end up with electrical issues month's later.
Well sure if your electrical connector are rubbish then sure yeah, or u dip your ECU into the puddle then, yeah, youre bound to have electrical issues, but as long as youre connectors are okay shape and your ECU isnt under the hood going down the river (or it is atleast in some sort of waterproof holster) you shouldnt be having any electrical issues and if you do, they dont happen months later, they happen then and there when the water is still a factor in this, the water should evaporate soon after re surfacing, like honestly, where could the water puddle hide for a month before it starts doing damage ? i would understand rust damage, but thats nowhere near electrical issue.
yup i agree there, mate of mine replaces alternators from submersion but weeks later after trips
Maybe the cables / connectors start to rust and brake loose?
Cables are usually copper, and copper doesnt rust all that easily and the connectors are mostly plastic with possibly a rubbery o ring as a seal
I have washed all my engine bays and engine blocks for years. No issues at all. I covered my alternator sometimes but really rare cause I figure if you can drive in partially deep puddle by mistake and the alternator is on the bottom end of the motor gets fully submerged with no issue later to speak of... then you are going to be fine. However you have to have the car running so if you get something in the intake it will not flood out.