Just done this job - mine were extremely well bonded to the bar. After fully disconnecting the bar I pulled it out as far as possible each side for better access to slice up the bush with a sharp Stanley knife and then cleaned up the remnants with a grinder followed by spray painting the bar in situ.
How was your experience doing the job? I am buying my new bushings from Atlantic British. They do not have the split, so I am planning on fully disconnecting the bar to insert the new bushings after I take the old ones off. Was the job time consuming?
@@michaelbarakat5662 it was a lot more time consuming than expected, but not too bad. The access isn't great - disconnect both sidesand then you can pull it out as far as it will come (it looks like you can't remove it completely without dropping the subframe). Then you can access to clean it up before fitting the new bushes. I've nit heard of them without the split - I used genuine LR ones as they were really not expensive at all - these did have the split.
Have the same issue on my Porsche SUV. Rattle knocking noise on driver side driving me nuts. Replace most of front suspension noise still there gets worse when gets hot. Sway bar bushing is my next item then if all else fails my strut top mounts are last resort!
I hear you. Btw, your tapping out the ball joints didn’t exactly work here in Vermont on a clean 2012. After damaging drive axle boot and beating heck out of ball joint, I brought to professionals. I did however do all the other components upfront myself.
Excellent video. As an FYI, the bushes are bonded to the bar and RR class them as non replaceable ......That is why it is so hard to remove them
Just done this job - mine were extremely well bonded to the bar. After fully disconnecting the bar I pulled it out as far as possible each side for better access to slice up the bush with a sharp Stanley knife and then cleaned up the remnants with a grinder followed by spray painting the bar in situ.
How was your experience doing the job? I am buying my new bushings from Atlantic British. They do not have the split, so I am planning on fully disconnecting the bar to insert the new bushings after I take the old ones off. Was the job time consuming?
@@michaelbarakat5662 it was a lot more time consuming than expected, but not too bad. The access isn't great - disconnect both sidesand then you can pull it out as far as it will come (it looks like you can't remove it completely without dropping the subframe). Then you can access to clean it up before fitting the new bushes. I've nit heard of them without the split - I used genuine LR ones as they were really not expensive at all - these did have the split.
@@highlandmalt6368 I appreciate the info! Thanks
Thanks! Thought you got rid of the l322.
Have the same issue on my Porsche SUV. Rattle knocking noise on driver side driving me nuts. Replace most of front suspension noise still there gets worse when gets hot. Sway bar bushing is my next item then if all else fails my strut top mounts are last resort!
Yes that's the sound mine has been doing for 8 months now and I have changed everything but the D bushes 😂 top guy thanks
It’s a love hate relationship 😂 I really do love my autobiography.
I hear you. Btw, your tapping out the ball joints didn’t exactly work here in Vermont on a clean 2012. After damaging drive axle boot and beating heck out of ball joint, I brought to professionals. I did however do all the other components upfront myself.
Sounds like you have put a lot of work into this one. You must really like it! Why use the Jeep when you have the range?
I use the Jeep for extreme off-road like going to the rubicon and trails with rocks, and the range for dirt trails. Cheers!
What yr is your L322?
2012
Last year, best made, still needed all those parts just for some rubber to be causing the issue😅😢 I’d be sweating and crying after that one