This is an excellent video. I’m glad that some professional photographers are now extolling the virtues of shooting JPEGs. I shoot JPEG and my fellow hobbyists used to consider me as some sort of pariah! I use Fujifilm cameras and lenses and those lenses and camera sensors give extraordinary JPEG results. I can print straight from the camera and get well- balanced results. People who look at my work never ask me about whether I shoot in RAW or JPEG. It would be like someone asking Picasso what type of brushes he used in his paintings. Thank you for posting your video.
If you get paid for your work, you don't have the time to grade hundreds of photos perfectly in Lightroom. Nobody would pay you for that really. Except someone is really ready to pay you for that of course... So the idea that professionals "do always shoot RAW and rework anything in Lightroom through the night" is a bit of an urban legend. There are a lot of professional photographers who capture RAW and JPEG in parallel (that's often a setting in the camera). There are the following reasons: - They use the JPEG to compare their Lightroom work with RAW to have some sort of reference. If you work hours on a picture, it's sometimes good to have that "reference of reality". - If the JPEG is good enough and already what they expect, they use the JPEG. It doesn't make sense to spend hours into RAW if the JPEG out of camera is just fine enough. - Some cameras, which have 2 memory slots, are able to shoot RAW on one slot and JPEG on the 2nd slot. So you have then the RAW and JPEG's separated. Often the photographer goes through the JPEG's and pick the RAW's where the JPEG's need some work. And you have a backup of course. Be aware that not all cameras have the same JPEG engine. - It seems as a lot of professionals like the Canon engine, as the colors are very accurate out of the camera. - Some like the Nikon engine as it tries to re-use the sensor noise like film granularity. - Sonys produce a bit more snappy and sharpened pictures than others (BTW they even have processed and lossy compressed RAW files...). - There is an obvious faithful fan base around the film simulations in the Fujis. You're even able to shoot 3 simulations at once with a special "Bracketing" setting, so you can choose which JPEG you like the most. So if you shoot JPEGs, the first recommendation is: If you like to shoot JPEG, you should have a look on what JPEGs the camera produces and you should like what you see. Every brand is a bit different in that area and has a different philosophy. That's a bit like buying a set of expensive speakers: You should listen to them before you buy them.
Yes. I always shoot RAW+JPG at least having RAW as a reference point. However it is not so difficult to have some presets for raw processing which need only slight tweaking (mostly). I routinely use color profiling with color checker or similar targets and it is like 90 % of work already done. Of course it depends - those 90 % applies in documentary or product photography where color rendition is a priority.
Thanks for your comment. I learned also in the film era, but that was then and now it's different. But, we have to do what makes us happy. There's no right or wrong.
ty sulantoblog for your fast response i have figured it out why the grey out settings in my panasonic DMC-GX85, it was because the creative art mode was on and grey out all the other settings ty.
The topic is unique. It captured my attention to watch this clip. I mainly shoot raw, but there occasions that I take photos of my friends and they need it right away.
I'm fairly new to raw editing, so i shoot RAW & Jpeg, then i have an instant Jpeg but for me when editing, when I think it is ok to save, I use the jpg as a reference and compare, only if I achieved my goal then i save. could work for you too.
Thank you -- I shoot raw+JPG all of the time on my G85, with the Standard (unmodified) picture profile -- and I must admit that I almost always use the JPG files with some tweaks in Cyberlink PhotoDirector (LightRoom equivalent) as it is just faster! And these are usually to share with family -- "snapshots." And the quality is fine. If I really need to tweak something and get it ready for printing 8x10 or larger -- then I edit the raw file in PhotoDirector -- and yes, I can really deal with the shadows and highlights a lot better, and the overall sharpness/color transitions hold up a lot better than editing the JPG files. So I have the luxury of doing both -- until I run out of hard drive space to save both types of files!!!! But I should mess around a little more with the in-camera settings that affect the JPG profile/output -- as I always tend to do the same types of edits in PhotoDirector to the JPG files -- so why not do it when shooting instead of spending all of the time in post??? Thanks again!
With jpeg the i.Dynamic plays with the contrast and highlight/shadow whereas the i.Resolution plays with the sharpening. Marlene Hielema explains this fer better than I can. These and the Photo-Style adjustments are all gain parameters and do have a knock-on into the Extended-Raw. If they have turned the gain up and caused blow-out in jpeg, the raw can be blown-out too. Lumix use an "Extended-RAW", the camera settings are encoded into it therefore the converter should display and default to what the camera intended, and then let you play with it (shoot raw+jpeg). The usual suspect raw converter doesn't understand the Extended-Raw.
@@mattisulanto Yes and erm, no, kinda. LR can implement Photostyles, but neither it nor PS can interpret the extended-raw and hence cannot automatically apply e.g. lens corrections that it can do for Canikon. Also applies to NR etc etc etc. The image processor in the camera (Venus Engine) is pretty powerful and attuned to the system, it makes a pretty good stab at it - tailor-made or off the peg? Six of one, half a dozen of the other with the curate's egg thrown in for good measure. One size does not fit all. Lumix, Olympus and Fujifilm all suffer from this lack of interpretation of their extended-raw files and it can make conversion a bit of a trial. Silkypix offers freebie Panasonic and Fujifilm editions that do convert properly. The Pro edition can handle practically everything including Olympus, but we have OM Workspace for that. I do like the PS/LR editing interface but cannot bring myself to use Camera-RAW now, it's too much of an effort fixing everything manually. I want to take photos not develop my computer graphics skills. I've no idea how many photos you take but I can rock off thousands of them. Most of mine rubbish and destined for the bin, so I do not want to spend aeons sitting at the computer. 😉 Occasionally I surprise myself and take a decent photo. It's not about the equipment.
Can you please do some detailed explanation on how the highlight shadow graph works? Is it a processing done with the raw data or just over the jpeg after the raw processing? And does this bring more noise than post-processing raw on our own? And how the i dynamic feature can go along with this settings? Can we use both in combination to get better dynamic range and results? Can you compare with examples? I tried to find those internet and all i could find was some vague comments over forums. It would be great if you can find some time to do a video on it. And there is an option of use digital colour filter over black and white picture profiles. How can we use these? Does it give same results as using actual colour filters? If so that is a great feature and i haven't seen any video on it.
Only Panasonic engineers know how the in camera processing works but I think it's safe to assume that the starting point is a RAW photo. I'll consider your video idea but meanwhile you can easily make your own comparisons and see what happens. Regarding color filters, here is a video I made awhile back that you may find interesting: ruclips.net/video/R0HMsHYLOCc/видео.html
As a person still starting out in photography, I have disciplined myself to only shoot in JPEG as I feel shooting in RAW will make me a lazy photographer, not paying attention to nailing the exposure, framing, white balance or editing parameters in camera with a "I can always fix it in post" mentality, not good for a beginner like me. Maybe in the near future I can slowly transition to RAW+ JPEG if I have the time or inclination to post process or print my images, but for now I just wanna take images that are ready to use straight outta the camera. Also with my Canon 70D and its slow 7fps by today's standards, I can shoot fast moving subjects in JPEG for 10 straight seconds before the buffer fills, compared to 2.9 seconds when shooting RAW.
I wanted to finally test this theory of RAW and JPEG and I used my Sony HX99 to shoot a typical home photo. It takes ONE image but you see TWO files: One is RAW and the other is JPEG 1. RAW file size was 18,645KB 2. JPEG was taking up 8,728KB Clearly the JPEG was slightly more than 2.13X smaller which is always a welcome. Which one was clearer? JPEG was! There some items of text file in a DVD cabinet. I could read the words "Panasonic" in JPEG format but NOT in RAW which was very surprising to me! Also, Alex Monitor was above and I could make out the words displayed on JPEG but NOT in RAW. How good is that! Switching between JPEG and RAW using ACDSEE, I would tell that the JPEG had won as a moved between RAW and JPEG with a wheelhouse one rotation. Now I know someone will write a comment like what about when you process etc. But in one simple terms, JPEG image had less noise, was sharper and smaller in file size. I am now 99% convinced that JPEG is way forward. If anyone wishes to try the SAME technique and has a Digital Camera (mines a Sony HX99) please try the same experiment and let me know which one you prefect.
No, Lightroom doesn't support ... quite a lot of stuff and when it does it often does it wrong. Silkypix aided Panasonic (and Fuji) to develop their raw processing and does the conversion of the "Extended-RAW" correctly if a little differently to the camera itself. Silkypix works for the Panasonic "Extended-RAW". Likewise Olympus (now OM) Workspace works for Olympus "Extended RAW". If I may liken shooting jpeg to setting up a batch process in a raw converter. Then it becomes like changing a film type. With the advantage that we can chimp and change. I am forever changing the EV compensation, the curves and metering for backlighting and such. I like to see what I'm getting immediately. If I like what I see then there is usually no reason to pester the raw converter and spend ages editing. The in-camera is that good now the only downside is the monitor size. I'm wondering about a field monitor for that.
Thanks for sharing your point of view, Sulanto! I am not against RAW in some very specific situations, but I (me!) only shoot in JPEG. For these reasons, as follows: 1. Part of the price I paid for my camera relates to its internal software and what it can do for me. Oh my God! In practice, on the run, on the field, on the wild it makes a huge difference; 2. I never needed RAW to deliver my photos as I wanted and/or needed (including fine art large format prints). Not yet!; 3. I save a lot of processing resources on click, plus some battery, memory card and hard drive; 4. I should not benefit from 20, maybe 30% of the possibilities that RAW would theoretically provide me in post production, and yes, partly due to the skills beyond my photographer assignments; 5. I simply would not have time to process each of my images (part intended for printing, part intended for stock) into RAW to justify the disadvantages of having them. Exacerbated increase in costs!; 6. I don't believe (not at all!) that RAW shooting defines your photography knowledge or market position. I say this from my own experience. I have been shooting a lot in RAW, but have concluded that I do not need it for very, very similar results. So I am still looking for a justification for abandoning JPEG. Maybe someone can point me one or two! :)
Yes I also don't understand you get 20% more potential to edit or some BS but the files are 10x bigger. I really don't understand who would want that in the real world in this day of advanced quality jpg image stacking
The reason I still shoot in raw is because I am still tweaking my jpgs settings on camera. As soon as I nail this settings, I am done with raws ;) This, of course, does not work for every situation, specially to low light scenarios, but I find myself about 90% of the time making my RAW files look like its sister JPG! So, I am almost there…
You don't need to start with "What's up" ;-) I shoot jpeg and it is for the reason you mentioned, I just have the time nor energy to mess with my photos after. I am not a Pro so my photos don't have to be A grade. My jpegs still look great in my opinion. The photo styles are useful as you say. I use Standard mostly but sometimes on a cloudy day Vivid is better. The monochrome options are nice too, when I am in the mood for b&w :-). Thanks for the video, keep them coming!
Excellent tutorial! I shoot JPEGS mostly because I want to get the best image in the camera with least post processijng, and also because RAW files take up SO MUCH space on the memory card and computer files.. Keep up te great work!.
Hi Matti, thanks for this useful video. I usually shoot JPEG on my Canon 6D. It's full frame with 20MP. Please can you advise whether it is worth switching to RAW if you expect to crop the image, such as for wildlife photography when the subject is often slightly too small in the frame? Or is a fine quality JPEG just as good in terms of image detail for cropping?
Why don't you try it for yourself? Shoot RAW+JPEG and make the same crop and see if you notice any difference. With RAW you have better post processing options and you should be able to squeeze more detail out of it.
Thanks for the tips . I’m an amateur. I shoot always and only in JPEG for two reasons. I’m not iterested in overediting, a little crop, a little adjustment in brightness and contrast, of needed. I like to share my pictures with my family and my friends and olso with myself on different devices . I try to make my best in camera. I think that RAW is for Professional photographers
I don't understand the point of raw. Files are 10x bigger and you have to waste time in a program like lighthouse when you can just use camera HDR in jpg and also shoot much faster pictures
i used Lightroom, stopped working after a while, i used Darktable as an alternative, today, stopped working. i totally would give up RAW at this moment and shooting back in Jpeg because of frustrations of programs that doesnt work, so yeah. now i'm going to shoot JPEG. what to do with my NEF files, i dont know but i cant edit them, so its like dead space. lets go Jpeg.
I like that “Lumix Look.” But how would you set the Picture Profiles on the Canon M50? I have tried several settings and they all look about the same. J.Parks
I use raw on my A7 III and jpegs on the A6000. To me this is a good compromise. I have downloaded several apps on the A6000 which do not work in raw and being lazy I sometimes think jpegs straight out of the camera are good enough. And I do not fall for the temptation to overprocess my pictures.
A comment for your channel but not on this particular video. Have you considered doing any videos on the 4k/6k features that Lumix cameras provide and the best way to select the one photo you want. I find those features useful, but I always end up having to pick my photo in camera using just that 3in screen, and would love to know if there is a better way.
Thanks for your comment. I have considered covering the 4k/6k feature, but because of my shooting style, I really don't find that much use for the 4k/6k photo. I may still make a video of it in the future.
Hello, I hear a lot about ETR, but to I feel like you at little underexposed looks better sometimes. I am using a Lumix FX300 and learning slowly, thanks for you vids, I also only shoot jpeg for now, and crop and adjust very little in lightroom.
Raw is fine however in the critical world of crime scene photography we shoot jpeg primarily because the files would be far too large and not for any good reason.
An excellent video, and a great follow up to your last video on street photography as many street photographers prefer to shot in JPEG. Lumix cameras are great for street photography as they are small and light. I am new to Lumix, having shot RAW on Canon for years. Your station is the best on the web as far as using Lumix products is concerned.
Thanks for sharing.... Yes I only shoot JPEG and your video is very helpful... I do very little post processing , maybe brighten or darken the photo only...I am only a hobbyist & just love taking pics of whatever interests me ...cheers ..
Can you get log JPEGs on Lumix cameras? A while ago I read that at least one Sony body lets you shoot log JPEGs. This is a nice compromise between the latitude of RAW and the simplicity of JPEG (i.e. you don't need a RAW converter and the files are smaller).
I can't decide what style you should use. That is a matter of preference and there is no universal "mountain" style. What do you like? Saturated or less saturated? Contrasty or less contrasty? Warm colors or cold colors? Try to figure out what you want and choose the style that matches that.
I'm another one that shoots both Raw + JPG. I find that for just posting to Facebook and Instagram that jpgs are all I need. Another plus is that some of the free editors for the iPAD do a great job editing jpgs and are faster than trying to do it with full blown lightroom on a RAW file. For me, I like my pictures punchy so I use the VIVID profile. Finally, I have a G9 and have Raw go to one card and JPGs to the other. Occasionally I run out of space for my RAW files, but I'm still off and shooting jpgs.
Apple Photos is a great editor(color and monochrome) for Lumix and Olympus JPGs. Apple Preview is great for adding text/drawing on top of photos ands saving as PDF. Both Photos(MacOS and iPadOS) and Preview(MacOS) are free apps from the Apple App Store.
The problem with the Photos is that you can't access the pictures directly in the finder, your pictures are inside a library bundle. You also can't have your pictures on an external drive. Correct me if I'm wrong.
sulantoblog When you are done editing, you can place your photos anywhere you want... local HD, SSD drive, Cloud drive or USB stick... or you can share them on social media. The old iPhoto app used to be a file jail.
Excellent video. Relearning photography from my Canon A1 and my dads old Zeis Icon Contaflex to a Panasonic DMC G85. Really going back to school! Thanks for your clear descriptions!
Loved this video. As a JPG hobby shooter who does minor adjustments to select photos, never felt the desire to shoot RAW. Check out a talk called 'In Camera Artistry' on the B&H channel
Something I discovered is that when applying noise reduction in raw files (Lr leaves them at zero and Capture One if you respect them) and the noise reduction work (applied in raw and jpg) is very smart, surprisingly good! ... I can put +5 and the lumix software knows how to distinguish very well when applying it, it is not static, but intelligent. regards
Thanks! Very good explanation. Very helpful in understanding how such things as the histogram and the shadows curve (s-curve, etc) inform / affect the image. Have you done a similar “RAW” video that talks about your top 5 post-processing tips (when using Lightroom, DxPro, etc)?
Thank you so much. I have some post processing videos that you can find if you search my channel. Here is my simple RAW workflow: ruclips.net/video/sHNerbFtzk0/видео.html
i almost always shoot jpg on my fuji gfx it delivers so nice jpg clients are more than happy but in a big nice sunset the colors from a 16 bit TIFF file 600mb in size is and looks better than a 8 bits jpg where bending is an big issue in 8 bits but landscape i don't see much of a difference on jpg raw converted to 16 bit TIFF (jpeg is 80%compressed vs tiff) loses too much color info
I have a question. Why are there two settings, Zebra 1 and Zebra 2? What is the difference? How and when do you use them? Do you just set one of them or both and to what values?
I think it's just that you can have two preset values. You set them how you want and depending on what you shoot. Here is one video on the topic: ruclips.net/video/5y2Db2xSVzs/видео.html
this is my 6th video today of yours... and I learned so much although I had already 2 small exhibits shot with G7 ... I m shaking my head about how little i knew (I do this every day but today about g7 photography)THANKS
Matti, I find that turning on the iResolution to standard sharpens just the edges but high tends to oversharpen the images, this is just my preference.
You were not listening. Lowering the noise reduction (from 0 to -1) will give you a bit more noise at high ISO, but also a bit more natural looking picture in my opinion.
@@mattisulanto please don't take my comment as nagging... I just thought for a begginer it would be a setting worth trying! Thank-you once again for your work, I really enjoy your videos (though no always agree with everything...)
One thing I like about jpeg is the in camera noise reduction which is fairly well judged if a bit smudgey of fine details. It can often do a better job than I can in Luminar! God damn too early - 360p lol
Just be careful that staying with jpg isn’t stopping your development as a photographer. And working with raw is a great way of learning about photography.
If you can't get great images using JPG nowadays, maybe you need to work on the shooting skills more than editing skills using RAW. And yes, I know RAW has more to work with. RAW may be better indeed, but JPG is pretty good, and what makes a great shot has more to do with art skills, for many photographers, not interested in pixel peeping. -Loren lorenschwiderski.smugmug.com/
I started with, and still shoot, film. I just love the mechanical feel of cameras like the Mamiya RB67, C220/C330 TLRS, the Pentacon Six, etc. That said, I usually end up bringing a Mamiya 645 Pro TL with a few backs to save weight. That said, the same argument applies to why I've been bringing a Fuji X-T30 along the last year or so. It's light and compact with great film simulations that produce great jpegs right out of the camera when using the same discipline I use while shooting film. Of course, I shoot Jpeg+RAW, but I find myself exposing for what I want in the shot and not for maximum RAW. I get most of the film experience minus getting out the tanks, developer, and scanner. The Xpro 3 REALLY tempted me and still does, but I couldn't justify the cost for an experiment at the time.
I guess Im asking randomly but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost the login password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Beau Reed Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
hi Matti, may I ask for your advice regarding the settings of iDynamic, iResolution, etc. Do you turn them off or do you use them to a certain degree? Thanks in advance!
The solution to me is simple. With todays cheap memory cards and massive storage, for still shots, just shoot in RAW or use lossless compression if it has it. If no lossless compression is available, try the lowest compression setting of JPG which should be close to lossless.
Well all of my images need post processing as I always have to crop the image; I never use images with the same format as the sensor, most being anamorphic or an even more severe crop. I prefer processing jpgs as for me, as I use a separate RAW loader, processing RAWs will involve an extra step. I have found that, which medium I choose depends on the camera. My Panasonic GX9 is the first camera I can completely rely on to provide good jpgs that are well exposed, good white balance and excellent image quality. On the images I produce I cant really see any difference so I only use jpgs unless there is a taking problem such as difficult lighting. My new Sony A7 seems good as well but I have only had it a week; I want it to take my adapted Nikkor primes as my MFT sensors seem a bit small for that purpose. Cameras that always require RAW dont last long in my ownership. Leica TL2 had the worst jpgs I ever had so always used RAW until I sold it in frustration last month. The Nikon D7100 I had 2 years ago had to have white balance set manually (never seen worse white balance) and the exposure was all over the place so I always mostly used RAW. My Olympus TG-3 always produces nice jpgs which is lucky as it doesnt shoot RAW and that makes a good point. If a cheap point and shoot can always produce good jpgs I expect an expensive camera to produce good jpgs as well. I do not buy this photographer crap about needing to control your camera better; if I cant control a camera now after 62 years of photography I never will. If a manufacturer cant produce a decent electronic camera nowadays they dont deserve to be in business; yes you Nikon (my older Nikons like my D700 or D80 made before 2010 produce perfect jpgs and RAWs, the D7100 is the worst camera I ever owned and caused me to switch to Panasonic after 50 years; points at Nikon's recent sales figures, nuff said). So, in an ideal world you dont need RAW but, things are never perfect so best to have the option. Have fun ;-)
@@lloydbligh5601 Well my Panasonic GX9 with 14-140mm zoom pretty much covers that slot and with an Olympus 17mm f1.8 it gave my Leica a run for its money and the Leica lost - winks ;-)
Good job on that Matti👍 As a Lumix camera and lens user who shoots jpeg that's very useful information for me. What about the iDynamic and iResolution settings in Lumix cameras? Do you use them and what difference do they make? It seems like they are like mild HDR. What do you think about HDR?
Thanks, Marko. I have tried both the iDynamic and iResolution, but not extensively. I had mixed feelings, because the outcome is a bit unpredictable, you can't be quite sure what the camera thinks in every situation. HDR can look good, if used wisely and not over done.
I think the histogram and/or blinkies/zebra are useful when you have poor quality EVF or use an OVF or use the LCD in very bright sun (cannot see clearly). In cases when I can see a good EVF or LCD clearly, I prefer to use the exposure emulation of liveview followed by chimping sometimes which gives me the look of the final result. It may be that I will have a high dynamic range scene and have to sacrifice shadows or highlights so the histogram or blinkies tells me so but does not tell me aesthetically is that the creative look I want.
@@mattisulanto It certainly does that. And is useful for shooting video where you are not so much interested in artistic expression but in avoiding burnout of highlights. For stills, particularly artistic shots, I value the look of the scene and the tones that matter to me are of the subject more than the rest of the scene (which I might purposely sacrifice) :)
@@mattisulanto hey , any chance of doing this video for Panasonic S1? Styles are similar, but latitude difference for noise, grain, colour and sharpness
@@emerywd I don't have the S1, so I recommend you use this video as a starting point and fine tune the settings. I don't think you have to do a lot to get similar results. Experiment, move the sliders and see what happens.
This is an excellent video. I’m glad that some professional photographers are now extolling the virtues of shooting JPEGs. I shoot JPEG and my fellow hobbyists used to consider me as some sort of pariah! I use Fujifilm cameras and lenses and those lenses and camera sensors give extraordinary JPEG results. I can print straight from the camera and get well- balanced results. People who look at my work never ask me about whether I shoot in RAW or JPEG. It would be like someone asking Picasso what type of brushes he used in his paintings. Thank you for posting your video.
That's already an old video, but thanks anyway for your compliments😀
Hi Sensei Matti, I'll like to ask you a question about a photo in a magazine and how it was shot😮
If you get paid for your work, you don't have the time to grade hundreds of photos perfectly in Lightroom. Nobody would pay you for that really. Except someone is really ready to pay you for that of course... So the idea that professionals "do always shoot RAW and rework anything in Lightroom through the night" is a bit of an urban legend.
There are a lot of professional photographers who capture RAW and JPEG in parallel (that's often a setting in the camera). There are the following reasons:
- They use the JPEG to compare their Lightroom work with RAW to have some sort of reference. If you work hours on a picture, it's sometimes good to have that "reference of reality".
- If the JPEG is good enough and already what they expect, they use the JPEG. It doesn't make sense to spend hours into RAW if the JPEG out of camera is just fine enough.
- Some cameras, which have 2 memory slots, are able to shoot RAW on one slot and JPEG on the 2nd slot. So you have then the RAW and JPEG's separated. Often the photographer goes through the JPEG's and pick the RAW's where the JPEG's need some work. And you have a backup of course.
Be aware that not all cameras have the same JPEG engine.
- It seems as a lot of professionals like the Canon engine, as the colors are very accurate out of the camera.
- Some like the Nikon engine as it tries to re-use the sensor noise like film granularity.
- Sonys produce a bit more snappy and sharpened pictures than others (BTW they even have processed and lossy compressed RAW files...).
- There is an obvious faithful fan base around the film simulations in the Fujis. You're even able to shoot 3 simulations at once with a special "Bracketing" setting, so you can choose which JPEG you like the most.
So if you shoot JPEGs, the first recommendation is: If you like to shoot JPEG, you should have a look on what JPEGs the camera produces and you should like what you see. Every brand is a bit different in that area and has a different philosophy. That's a bit like buying a set of expensive speakers: You should listen to them before you buy them.
mightyboessu, excellent post; I hope people will read it.
mightyboessu. Yes. Excellent!
Yes. I always shoot RAW+JPG at least having RAW as a reference point.
However it is not so difficult to have some presets for raw processing which need only slight tweaking (mostly). I routinely use color profiling with color checker or similar targets and it is like 90 % of work already done. Of course it depends - those 90 % applies in documentary or product photography where color rendition is a priority.
My habits where formed in the old days when I shot Kodachrome slides. The picture should be perfect the moment you took it.
Thanks for your comment. I learned also in the film era, but that was then and now it's different. But, we have to do what makes us happy. There's no right or wrong.
@@mattisulanto Great point!
ty sulantoblog for your fast response i have figured it out why the grey out settings in my panasonic DMC-GX85, it was because the creative art mode was on and grey out all the other settings ty.
There are a # of useful features - on my G9 - that don't work when shooting Raw. Enjoyed this topic.
The topic is unique. It captured my attention to watch this clip. I mainly shoot raw, but there occasions that I take photos of my friends and they need it right away.
Thanks! Hope you found the video useful.
I'm fairly new to raw editing, so i shoot RAW & Jpeg, then i have an instant Jpeg but for me when editing, when I think it is ok to save, I use the jpg as a reference and compare, only if I achieved my goal then i save. could work for you too.
Thank you -- I shoot raw+JPG all of the time on my G85, with the Standard (unmodified) picture profile -- and I must admit that I almost always use the JPG files with some tweaks in Cyberlink PhotoDirector (LightRoom equivalent) as it is just faster! And these are usually to share with family -- "snapshots." And the quality is fine. If I really need to tweak something and get it ready for printing 8x10 or larger -- then I edit the raw file in PhotoDirector -- and yes, I can really deal with the shadows and highlights a lot better, and the overall sharpness/color transitions hold up a lot better than editing the JPG files. So I have the luxury of doing both -- until I run out of hard drive space to save both types of files!!!! But I should mess around a little more with the in-camera settings that affect the JPG profile/output -- as I always tend to do the same types of edits in PhotoDirector to the JPG files -- so why not do it when shooting instead of spending all of the time in post??? Thanks again!
Thanks. Give it a try and play with the in camera settings a bit. Maybe you don't need any post processing after that😀
With jpeg the i.Dynamic plays with the contrast and highlight/shadow whereas the i.Resolution plays with the sharpening. Marlene Hielema explains this fer better than I can.
These and the Photo-Style adjustments are all gain parameters and do have a knock-on into the Extended-Raw. If they have turned the gain up and caused blow-out in jpeg, the raw can be blown-out too.
Lumix use an "Extended-RAW", the camera settings are encoded into it therefore the converter should display and default to what the camera intended, and then let you play with it (shoot raw+jpeg). The usual suspect raw converter doesn't understand the Extended-Raw.
You can make LR understand the camera settings. There are Lumix Photo Styles in LR and you just have set that as default at import.
@@mattisulanto Yes and erm, no, kinda. LR can implement Photostyles, but neither it nor PS can interpret the extended-raw and hence cannot automatically apply e.g. lens corrections that it can do for Canikon. Also applies to NR etc etc etc. The image processor in the camera (Venus Engine) is pretty powerful and attuned to the system, it makes a pretty good stab at it - tailor-made or off the peg?
Six of one, half a dozen of the other with the curate's egg thrown in for good measure. One size does not fit all.
Lumix, Olympus and Fujifilm all suffer from this lack of interpretation of their extended-raw files and it can make conversion a bit of a trial.
Silkypix offers freebie Panasonic and Fujifilm editions that do convert properly. The Pro edition can handle practically everything including Olympus, but we have OM Workspace for that. I do like the PS/LR editing interface but cannot bring myself to use Camera-RAW now, it's too much of an effort fixing everything manually. I want to take photos not develop my computer graphics skills. I've no idea how many photos you take but I can rock off thousands of them. Most of mine rubbish and destined for the bin, so I do not want to spend aeons sitting at the computer. 😉
Occasionally I surprise myself and take a decent photo. It's not about the equipment.
@@jeffslade1892 Thanks for that. Very thorough, but almost interesting too😀
Another gold lesson. Thank you again.
Thanks again!
I always reduce Sharpening and Contrast. This avoids halos around the edges, and doesn't constrict the dynamic range.
Can you please do some detailed explanation on how the highlight shadow graph works? Is it a processing done with the raw data or just over the jpeg after the raw processing? And does this bring more noise than post-processing raw on our own? And how the i dynamic feature can go along with this settings? Can we use both in combination to get better dynamic range and results? Can you compare with examples? I tried to find those internet and all i could find was some vague comments over forums. It would be great if you can find some time to do a video on it. And there is an option of use digital colour filter over black and white picture profiles. How can we use these? Does it give same results as using actual colour filters? If so that is a great feature and i haven't seen any video on it.
Only Panasonic engineers know how the in camera processing works but I think it's safe to assume that the starting point is a RAW photo. I'll consider your video idea but meanwhile you can easily make your own comparisons and see what happens. Regarding color filters, here is a video I made awhile back that you may find interesting: ruclips.net/video/R0HMsHYLOCc/видео.html
As a person still starting out in photography, I have disciplined myself to only shoot in JPEG as I feel shooting in RAW will make me a lazy photographer, not paying attention to nailing the exposure, framing, white balance or editing parameters in camera with a "I can always fix it in post" mentality, not good for a beginner like me. Maybe in the near future I can slowly transition to RAW+ JPEG if I have the time or inclination to post process or print my images, but for now I just wanna take images that are ready to use straight outta the camera. Also with my Canon 70D and its slow 7fps by today's standards, I can shoot fast moving subjects in JPEG for 10 straight seconds before the buffer fills, compared to 2.9 seconds when shooting RAW.
Thanks for sharing.
I wanted to finally test this theory of RAW and JPEG and I used my Sony HX99 to shoot a typical home photo. It takes ONE image but you see TWO files:
One is RAW and the other is JPEG
1. RAW file size was 18,645KB
2. JPEG was taking up 8,728KB
Clearly the JPEG was slightly more than 2.13X smaller which is always a welcome.
Which one was clearer?
JPEG was! There some items of text file in a DVD cabinet. I could read the words "Panasonic" in JPEG format but NOT in RAW which was very surprising to me!
Also, Alex Monitor was above and I could make out the words displayed on JPEG but NOT in RAW. How good is that!
Switching between JPEG and RAW using ACDSEE, I would tell that the JPEG had won as a moved between RAW and JPEG with a wheelhouse one rotation.
Now I know someone will write a comment like what about when you process etc.
But in one simple terms, JPEG image had less noise, was sharper and smaller in file size.
I am now 99% convinced that JPEG is way forward.
If anyone wishes to try the SAME technique and has a Digital Camera (mines a Sony HX99) please try the same experiment and let me know which one you prefect.
Thanks for sharing.
No, Lightroom doesn't support ... quite a lot of stuff and when it does it often does it wrong. Silkypix aided Panasonic (and Fuji) to develop their raw processing and does the conversion of the "Extended-RAW" correctly if a little differently to the camera itself. Silkypix works for the Panasonic "Extended-RAW". Likewise Olympus (now OM) Workspace works for Olympus "Extended RAW".
If I may liken shooting jpeg to setting up a batch process in a raw converter. Then it becomes like changing a film type. With the advantage that we can chimp and change. I am forever changing the EV compensation, the curves and metering for backlighting and such. I like to see what I'm getting immediately. If I like what I see then there is usually no reason to pester the raw converter and spend ages editing. The in-camera is that good now the only downside is the monitor size. I'm wondering about a field monitor for that.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing your point of view, Sulanto! I am not against RAW in some very specific situations, but I (me!) only shoot in JPEG. For these reasons, as follows: 1. Part of the price I paid for my camera relates to its internal software and what it can do for me. Oh my God! In practice, on the run, on the field, on the wild it makes a huge difference; 2. I never needed RAW to deliver my photos as I wanted and/or needed (including fine art large format prints). Not yet!; 3. I save a lot of processing resources on click, plus some battery, memory card and hard drive; 4. I should not benefit from 20, maybe 30% of the possibilities that RAW would theoretically provide me in post production, and yes, partly due to the skills beyond my photographer assignments; 5. I simply would not have time to process each of my images (part intended for printing, part intended for stock) into RAW to justify the disadvantages of having them. Exacerbated increase in costs!; 6. I don't believe (not at all!) that RAW shooting defines your photography knowledge or market position. I say this from my own experience. I have been shooting a lot in RAW, but have concluded that I do not need it for very, very similar results. So I am still looking for a justification for abandoning JPEG. Maybe someone can point me one or two! :)
Thanks for your extensive comment. All your reasons sound valid and if it works for you, why change anything.
Yes I also don't understand you get 20% more potential to edit or some BS but the files are 10x bigger. I really don't understand who would want that in the real world in this day of advanced quality jpg image stacking
The reason I still shoot in raw is because I am still tweaking my jpgs settings on camera. As soon as I nail this settings, I am done with raws ;) This, of course, does not work for every situation, specially to low light scenarios, but I find myself about 90% of the time making my RAW files look like its sister JPG! So, I am almost there…
You don't need to start with "What's up" ;-)
I shoot jpeg and it is for the reason you mentioned, I just have the time nor energy to mess with my photos after. I am not a Pro so my photos don't have to be A grade. My jpegs still look great in my opinion. The photo styles are useful as you say. I use Standard mostly but sometimes on a cloudy day Vivid is better. The monochrome options are nice too, when I am in the mood for b&w :-). Thanks for the video, keep them coming!
Thanks for your comment. I know there are several things I don't need to do😀
HELLO amazing video. Can you tell me where the show/ highlight button will be in the S1R? please. I cannot find it.
Thanks. What button exactly are you talking about? The camera manual is a good source, if you have trouble operating your camera.
Excellent tutorial! I shoot JPEGS mostly because I want to get the best image in the camera with least post processijng, and also because
RAW files take up SO MUCH space on the memory card and computer files.. Keep up te great work!.
Thank you for those kind words.
Tried your Custom settings on my GX85 and they give a very nice result. If you do get a chance could you do a mini review on this great little camera?
Thanks and good to hear you like the settings. I can't promise a review of the GX85, but I'll see if I can get it on loan and maybe do a review.
Hi Matti, thanks for this useful video.
I usually shoot JPEG on my Canon 6D. It's full frame with 20MP.
Please can you advise whether it is worth switching to RAW if you expect to crop the image, such as for wildlife photography when the subject is often slightly too small in the frame? Or is a fine quality JPEG just as good in terms of image detail for cropping?
Why don't you try it for yourself? Shoot RAW+JPEG and make the same crop and see if you notice any difference. With RAW you have better post processing options and you should be able to squeeze more detail out of it.
@@mattisulanto Good idea, thanks!
Thanks for the tips . I’m an amateur. I shoot always and only in JPEG for two reasons. I’m not iterested in overediting, a little crop, a little adjustment in brightness and contrast, of needed. I like to share my pictures with my family and my friends and olso with myself on different devices . I try to make my best in camera. I think that RAW is for Professional photographers
Thanks for sharing.
I don't understand the point of raw. Files are 10x bigger and you have to waste time in a program like lighthouse when you can just use camera HDR in jpg and also shoot much faster pictures
i used Lightroom, stopped working after a while, i used Darktable as an alternative, today, stopped working.
i totally would give up RAW at this moment and shooting back in Jpeg because of frustrations of programs that doesnt work, so yeah. now i'm going to shoot JPEG. what to do with my NEF files, i dont know but i cant edit them, so its like dead space.
lets go Jpeg.
Thanks for sharing.
I like that “Lumix Look.” But how would you set the Picture Profiles on the Canon M50? I have tried several settings and they all look about the same. J.Parks
The M50 does not offer the same fine tuning that most Lumix models, but Canon jpegs look pleasing nonetheless.
Referencing exposure please can you do a video about using the 18% Grey card? Is it useful
Thanks. One idea for the future.
I use raw on my A7 III and jpegs on the A6000. To me this is a good compromise. I have downloaded several apps on the A6000 which do not work in raw and being lazy I sometimes think jpegs straight out of the camera are good enough. And I do not fall for the temptation to overprocess my pictures.
I get excellent results on my 80D & M50 when I shoot Jpegs
Very helpful tutorial, Thanks 👍
Thank you!
Great Tips in another Great video👍
Love your T-shirt 👍
Thanks. That t-shirt seems to be polarizing, some people hate it😀
@@mattisulanto haha that makes that
T- shirt evrn better 👍😂
@@PeterVlutters Yeah, and you should not take any t-shirt slogan too seriously😀
Thx, from San Antonio, Tx USA
Thanks for watching!
Where is it possible to see the result of your custom profile ?
A comment for your channel but not on this particular video. Have you considered doing any videos on the 4k/6k features that Lumix cameras provide and the best way to select the one photo you want. I find those features useful, but I always end up having to pick my photo in camera using just that 3in screen, and would love to know if there is a better way.
Thanks for your comment. I have considered covering the 4k/6k feature, but because of my shooting style, I really don't find that much use for the 4k/6k photo. I may still make a video of it in the future.
Hello, I hear a lot about ETR, but to I feel like you at little underexposed looks better sometimes. I am using a Lumix FX300 and learning slowly, thanks for you vids, I also only shoot jpeg for now, and crop and adjust very little in lightroom.
If you shoot raw, it's better to ETTR and get the look you want in post, but for jpegs little underexposure is good.
Спасибо за видео. Отличный урок. Был полезен для меня 👍
Raw is fine however in the critical world of crime scene photography we shoot jpeg primarily because the files would be far too large and not for any good reason.
Thanks for your comment. There is a time and a place for both file formats.
Thank you for this video! I am a rawshooter. But for my Beginnerstudents, your JPG- settings are perfect.
Thanks! Good to hear my video is useful.
An excellent video, and a great follow up to your last video on street photography as many street photographers prefer to shot in JPEG. Lumix cameras are great for street photography as they are small and light. I am new to Lumix, having shot RAW on Canon for years. Your station is the best on the web as far as using Lumix products is concerned.
Thanks for your kind words😀
I'm not a m4/3 user but your tips are very good, with your videos about technics i learn a lot of interesting tips, thank you for your videos!!
Thank you for those kind words.
Thanks for sharing.... Yes I only shoot JPEG and your video is very helpful... I do very little post processing , maybe brighten or darken the photo only...I am only a hobbyist & just love taking pics of whatever interests me ...cheers ..
Thank you.
Great tips. Thanks for sharing
Thanks!
Can you get log JPEGs on Lumix cameras? A while ago I read that at least one Sony body lets you shoot log JPEGs. This is a nice compromise between the latitude of RAW and the simplicity of JPEG (i.e. you don't need a RAW converter and the files are smaller).
I your camera has a log profile, you can use it for photography and jpegs.
Very helpful. THANKS!!
Good to hear the video was helpful. Thanks!
sir my camera on the screen is cannot display this file what is the meaning that sir how can i fix?
what style do you recommend when i go to the mountains i cant find the right setting
I can't decide what style you should use. That is a matter of preference and there is no universal "mountain" style. What do you like? Saturated or less saturated? Contrasty or less contrasty? Warm colors or cold colors? Try to figure out what you want and choose the style that matches that.
I'm another one that shoots both Raw + JPG. I find that for just posting to Facebook and Instagram that jpgs are all I need. Another plus is that some of the free editors for the iPAD do a great job editing jpgs and are faster than trying to do it with full blown lightroom on a RAW file. For me, I like my pictures punchy so I use the VIVID profile. Finally, I have a G9 and have Raw go to one card and JPGs to the other. Occasionally I run out of space for my RAW files, but I'm still off and shooting jpgs.
Apple Photos is a great editor(color and monochrome) for Lumix and Olympus JPGs.
Apple Preview is great for adding text/drawing on top of photos ands saving as PDF.
Both Photos(MacOS and iPadOS) and Preview(MacOS) are free apps from the Apple App Store.
The problem with the Photos is that you can't access the pictures directly in the finder, your pictures are inside a library bundle. You also can't have your pictures on an external drive. Correct me if I'm wrong.
sulantoblog When you are done editing, you can place your photos anywhere you want... local HD, SSD drive, Cloud drive or USB stick... or you can share them on social media. The old iPhoto app used to be a file jail.
@@valdiskrebs566 So you can access all original photos also in the Finder?
sulantoblog Yes, I can access the originals or the edited versions in Finder.
PhotoScape X is very nice too! I agree, Apple did a great job with Photos & Preview apps. -Loren
Hello. Do I understand correctly that the jpg setting (F/MF/SF) does not effect the raw file?
Yes, you got it right. If you shoot JPEG+RAW, you'll always get the same RAW regardless of your JPEG settings.
Thank you for the tips. I use mostly a old Lumix DMC-LS3 and a newer DMC-TZ58 for landscape shooting. With greetings from lower Bavaria :-).
Thanks and happy photography to you in Bayer. Viel spaß!
Thank you for sharing. This has given me confidence in concreting on taking pictures and not Raw processing 👍
Thanks. Always happy to assist😀
Excellent video. Relearning photography from my Canon A1 and my dads old Zeis Icon Contaflex to a Panasonic DMC G85. Really going back to school! Thanks for your clear descriptions!
Thank you.
Thanks. Great video
Thank you!
Loved this video. As a JPG hobby shooter who does minor adjustments to select photos, never felt the desire to shoot RAW. Check out a talk called 'In Camera Artistry' on the B&H channel
Thanks!
Sadly, my GX 880 does not have an item with highlights and shadows settings
Yeah, the GX880 has the old style menu system.
Hi Marti, it was great. Such clarity ! It was great to hear you and I like your susre-shot confidence.
Thanks!
Gua kira ini chanel sultan. Ternyata sulant.
No problem, I've been called Mr. Sultano sometimes😀
Something I discovered is that when applying noise reduction in raw files (Lr leaves them at zero and Capture One if you respect them) and the noise reduction work (applied in raw and jpg) is very smart, surprisingly good! ... I can put +5 and the lumix software knows how to distinguish very well when applying it, it is not static, but intelligent. regards
Thanks for your input.
Thanks! Very good explanation. Very helpful in understanding how such things as the histogram and the shadows curve (s-curve, etc) inform / affect the image. Have you done a similar “RAW” video that talks about your top 5 post-processing tips (when using Lightroom, DxPro, etc)?
Thank you so much. I have some post processing videos that you can find if you search my channel. Here is my simple RAW workflow: ruclips.net/video/sHNerbFtzk0/видео.html
i almost always shoot jpg on my fuji gfx it delivers so nice jpg clients are more than happy but in a big nice sunset the colors from a 16 bit TIFF file 600mb in size is and looks better than a 8 bits jpg where bending is an big issue in 8 bits but landscape i don't see much of a difference on jpg raw converted to 16 bit TIFF (jpeg is 80%compressed vs tiff) loses too much color info
Thanks for sharing.
I have a question. Why are there two settings, Zebra 1 and Zebra 2? What is the difference? How and when do you use them? Do you just set one of them or both and to what values?
I think it's just that you can have two preset values. You set them how you want and depending on what you shoot. Here is one video on the topic: ruclips.net/video/5y2Db2xSVzs/видео.html
Usually you set one for the highlights (90-95%) and the other one for skin (around 75%)
this is my 6th video today of yours... and I learned so much although I had already 2 small exhibits shot with G7 ... I m shaking my head about how little i knew (I do this every day but today about g7 photography)THANKS
Thank you.
Grazie
Matti, I find that turning on the iResolution to standard sharpens just the edges but high tends to oversharpen the images, this is just my preference.
I meant extended not standard.
Thanks for sharing.
So lowering the sharpness gives you more noisy and grainy images instead of mushy? What??
You were not listening. Lowering the noise reduction (from 0 to -1) will give you a bit more noise at high ISO, but also a bit more natural looking picture in my opinion.
...what about starting up by choosing the largest size and best quality (lowest compression) jpg...?
Good point. Thanks for pointing it out.
@@mattisulanto
please don't take my comment as nagging... I just thought for a begginer it would be a setting worth trying!
Thank-you once again for your work, I really enjoy your videos (though no always agree with everything...)
I'm not taking your comment as nagging, it's a good point. Really.
@@mattisulanto
thank-you mr Sulanto, much appreciated.
One thing I like about jpeg is the in camera noise reduction which is fairly well judged if a bit smudgey of fine details. It can often do a better job than I can in Luminar!
God damn too early - 360p lol
Thanks for commenting, Joe.
👍🏼
Just be careful that staying with jpg isn’t stopping your development as a photographer.
And working with raw is a great way of learning about photography.
If you can't get great images using JPG nowadays, maybe you need to work on the shooting skills more than editing skills using RAW. And yes, I know RAW has more to work with. RAW may be better indeed, but JPG is pretty good, and what makes a great shot has more to do with art skills, for many photographers, not interested in pixel peeping. -Loren lorenschwiderski.smugmug.com/
I started with, and still shoot, film. I just love the mechanical feel of cameras like the Mamiya RB67, C220/C330 TLRS, the Pentacon Six, etc. That said, I usually end up bringing a Mamiya 645 Pro TL with a few backs to save weight. That said, the same argument applies to why I've been bringing a Fuji X-T30 along the last year or so. It's light and compact with great film simulations that produce great jpegs right out of the camera when using the same discipline I use while shooting film. Of course, I shoot Jpeg+RAW, but I find myself exposing for what I want in the shot and not for maximum RAW. I get most of the film experience minus getting out the tanks, developer, and scanner. The Xpro 3 REALLY tempted me and still does, but I couldn't justify the cost for an experiment at the time.
I guess Im asking randomly but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost the login password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Bo Maddox Instablaster ;)
@Beau Reed Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Beau Reed It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
@Bo Maddox happy to help =)
hi Matti,
may I ask for your advice regarding the settings of iDynamic, iResolution, etc. Do you turn them off or do you use them to a certain degree?
Thanks in advance!
I don't use them, but why don't you experiment a little and see what happens if you turn them on.
Interesting, I never thought of using Portrait for a landscape shot. I will have to see how that looks with my Sony RX100. 👍
Sure, no reason to limit its use to only portraits.
The solution to me is simple. With todays cheap memory cards and massive storage, for still shots, just shoot in RAW or use lossless compression if it has it. If no lossless compression is available, try the lowest compression setting of JPG which should be close to lossless.
Well all of my images need post processing as I always have to crop the image; I never use images with the same format as the sensor, most being anamorphic or an even more severe crop. I prefer processing jpgs as for me, as I use a separate RAW loader, processing RAWs will involve an extra step. I have found that, which medium I choose depends on the camera. My Panasonic GX9 is the first camera I can completely rely on to provide good jpgs that are well exposed, good white balance and excellent image quality. On the images I produce I cant really see any difference so I only use jpgs unless there is a taking problem such as difficult lighting. My new Sony A7 seems good as well but I have only had it a week; I want it to take my adapted Nikkor primes as my MFT sensors seem a bit small for that purpose. Cameras that always require RAW dont last long in my ownership. Leica TL2 had the worst jpgs I ever had so always used RAW until I sold it in frustration last month. The Nikon D7100 I had 2 years ago had to have white balance set manually (never seen worse white balance) and the exposure was all over the place so I always mostly used RAW. My Olympus TG-3 always produces nice jpgs which is lucky as it doesnt shoot RAW and that makes a good point. If a cheap point and shoot can always produce good jpgs I expect an expensive camera to produce good jpgs as well. I do not buy this photographer crap about needing to control your camera better; if I cant control a camera now after 62 years of photography I never will. If a manufacturer cant produce a decent electronic camera nowadays they dont deserve to be in business; yes you Nikon (my older Nikons like my D700 or D80 made before 2010 produce perfect jpgs and RAWs, the D7100 is the worst camera I ever owned and caused me to switch to Panasonic after 50 years; points at Nikon's recent sales figures, nuff said). So, in an ideal world you dont need RAW but, things are never perfect so best to have the option. Have fun ;-)
You are right, all cameras don't have the same quality jpegs.
Well said! Makes me want to buy a GX9
Vici Martynov Get a Nikon Bridge Camera , Nikon P900 EX. JPEG’s. Macro - Long Distance. Love reading your input.
@@lloydbligh5601 Well my Panasonic GX9 with 14-140mm zoom pretty much covers that slot and with an Olympus 17mm f1.8 it gave my Leica a run for its money and the Leica lost - winks ;-)
Yes, I like the Panasonic Colours and the GX9 is a nice size. I’d like to get the Olympus 17mm F1.8 lens.
Good job on that Matti👍 As a Lumix camera and lens user who shoots jpeg that's very useful information for me. What about the iDynamic and iResolution settings in Lumix cameras? Do you use them and what difference do they make? It seems like they are like mild HDR. What do you think about HDR?
Thanks, Marko. I have tried both the iDynamic and iResolution, but not extensively. I had mixed feelings, because the outcome is a bit unpredictable, you can't be quite sure what the camera thinks in every situation. HDR can look good, if used wisely and not over done.
Hello! What’s the best way of getting that already chosen color style while importing the jpg over light room?
I think the histogram and/or blinkies/zebra are useful when you have poor quality EVF or use an OVF or use the LCD in very bright sun (cannot see clearly). In cases when I can see a good EVF or LCD clearly, I prefer to use the exposure emulation of liveview followed by chimping sometimes which gives me the look of the final result. It may be that I will have a high dynamic range scene and have to sacrifice shadows or highlights so the histogram or blinkies tells me so but does not tell me aesthetically is that the creative look I want.
The zebra will still tell you where you get a certain brightness value, which I find useful. Thanks for your comment, Ananda.
@@mattisulanto It certainly does that. And is useful for shooting video where you are not so much interested in artistic expression but in avoiding burnout of highlights. For stills, particularly artistic shots, I value the look of the scene and the tones that matter to me are of the subject more than the rest of the scene (which I might purposely sacrifice) :)
@@mattisulanto - I'm going to watch your 🦓 video next
@@mattisulanto hey , any chance of doing this video for Panasonic S1? Styles are similar, but latitude difference for noise, grain, colour and sharpness
@@emerywd I don't have the S1, so I recommend you use this video as a starting point and fine tune the settings. I don't think you have to do a lot to get similar results. Experiment, move the sliders and see what happens.
Still shooting jpeg in 2021?
Many do.
I edit everything in post as jpeg with photoshop....same quality as raw
I'm happy to hear that you get the same quality from jpeg and raw, sounds great!
@@mattisulanto all I did was pick the highest quality of jpeg in camera
Use an Olympus camera ha ha