PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE: Video creator did not mention the bolt in the dead center of the valve cover. PLEASE remove this. If you try prying it off with this bolt still in you will certainly break something. I started prying and noticed an abnormal amount of resistance and after stepping back and looking around I noticed the bolt in the middle. Cover is not going anywhere with that bolt in.
@@1OldCutlass it may seem like no-brainer advice to an experienced mechanic but to a DIY fixer, like myself, it could be very helpful. I’m glad you can appreciate the importance.
Great vid and quality!!! One suggestion: You don't need to unplug the wires of the ignition coils, because those wires' plastic plugs can break easily! You just need to take out the coils along with the wires plugged in. There is NO need to unplug the wires themselves. AND take pictures of all the bolts you remove.
@@HowToDoitright I've just replaced my spark plugs unfortunately have leaks from both banks so no it's not just the front unfortunately the back is going to be a b#$ch!
Hey Merryfrankster could you help in finding the rear bank valve OEM cover gasket? Toyota sells only the large valve gasket and not the oring, and double orings, and spark plug tube seals. Could u give me the part numbers
I’m a retired mechanic and it’s still a little unnerving for me. My Sienna has over 200,000 miles on it and the rear valve cover is leaking enough to cause concern. The thing that worries me most is getting those original spark plugs to break loose.
@@danielhuerta6575 The recommended interval for iridium spark plugs is 140,000 miles and I think that may be a little conservative because every time I ever spent a huge wad on new iridium plugs I never noticed any difference other than a lighter wallet. Considering how Toyota buried half of them under an intake plenum and I also have to remove the wipers and air box I figured it wasn’t worth it until the oil leak came along.
As someone said I made the same noob mistake the spark plug tube seals are on backwards I had to take a fine flat head to get the back out with minimal damage it was time consuming my fault 😢
Frank I broke the porcelain of the spark plug in the middle rear well. I tried to blow it out but my nozzle has a 45 in it and maybe reaches 1/2 way down btw the plug is tight so no debris has fallen into the cylinder. What should I do thanks for your help
What’s the best sealant for the seam I used a Permatex sealant after 3 years it’s leaking again and I want to make sure I use the best sealant to do it again especially since the rear is leaking now
You can buy original Toyota sealant from your dealer. Personally I don't believe it performs any better than Permatex. If the seam is uneven, see if you can grind it down and make it more even. I assume you are referring to the joint between the timing cover and the head.
How come no one talks about the missing single grommet/ gasket under the valve cover that’s on the opposite side of the 2 gaskets that are shaped like an 8 -WHERE CAN I FIND THAT SMALL GASKET @8:30 , PLEASE I NEED HELP!!
On this 07 2GRFE is that front VVT-i line a problem line as well with the rubber elbow? I’m curious because on my sons 08 ES350, I can only see the rubber elbow on the back. But, at this point, I’m concerned about the p/s pump being seized on and not sure at this point if I will have a local shop do it. Thx.
The front vvt line is all metal. There is no rubber section. The power steering pump should not be too hard to replace. Be sure to purge the system after replacing, or you will get foaming.
@@Merryfrankster_ thank you sir. My concern is just getting the pump moved out of the way. I don’t want to take the axle out to get to it. The p/s pump is fine…we just want to replace this line.
@@Brian-fo8sh normally you do not have to remove the axle. The pump comes out easily. I had to remove the axle in this video because the pump was completely stuck and would not budge.
@@Merryfrankster_ I might give it a try to see…and if I get to that point, I guess I can just put it back together. I’m a pretty good DIY’er but I know my limitations too. Thx for getting back with me.
You need to apply FIPG at the spots where the timing cover meets the head. You can use gasket adhesive to keep the gasket in place without falling out from the valve cover when you put it in place.
This happens all the time. Check them periodically to make sure they do not come loose. You can try to secure them with a small zip tie. You can also put a dab of permatex on the connector to make it sticky.
Thats what I did with the rear spark plugs eff it. Literally toyota engineers didnt care about anyone working on the car. They'd rather sell you a new one. @@jackwobser8283
@@Merryfrankster_ thanks! I gotta do the rear too tho. My mechanic said I gotta remove a lot of stuff to get to it like the Throttle body and some other things. I'm hoping to find a video of a similar job to help me.
@Merryfrankster - Sir, you are doing God's work here. I only wish I knew where you are so that I could come to you and baste you with praise. I have worked on industrial machinery for a living for over 35 years, and nothing scares me about +Million dollar machines and such. That said, I have reluctantly worked on cars sporadically for close to 45 years, and over the last 25 years or so, I get as nervous as a school girl at her first dance, every time I raise the hood on a vehicle. It's not that I can't do the work - it's just that I don't even know what a lot of the parts are that I end up having to monkey with, and that alone harshes my calm. I need to access under my valve cover in a 2008 Highlander with the exact engine you just showed, and after unplugging all the electrical / control connections, I got increaingly 'shook' by the minute as I realized more and more that I was so clueless as to what I was unplugging, as to be totally unqualified to do this job. But then I took a few steps back and found this video - which not only set my mind at ease about knowing a great bit more than I knew ~15 minutes ago, but let me see where I was about to screw up in places I'd prefer not to screw up in. And after I scanned the comments for additional insight on the job, I realized that there are a few parts that I need to have on hand when I do the job that I didn't even know existed.
You need to replace Bank 1 Exhaust camshaft position sensor. Bank 1 is the one in the back. The sensor is all the way in the back, on the right side of the valve cover as you face toward the rear of the car (transmission side). I have never been able to reach this sensor without removing the intake plenum. If you replace this sensor, 99% certain the code will go away.
I heard the torque spec for banjo bolt and started tightening it halfway tightened I’m like dang this is really hard resume the video and hear your warning about cross threading immediately after I just cross theaded it.
OUCH! OWIE! i dunno what to say. Take the valve cover off. Rethread the hole - M12x1.25 if I remember right. Clean it out thoroughly before re-install.
@@Merryfrankster_ not that,I broke it when I paused and then resumed it and heard your warning and was like dang I really should watch the whole video first.
the plenum has some support brackets on the rear side that are a real pain to get to. You remove them. You remove the intake tube from the throttle body. You disconnect the vacuum hoses. You have two coolant hoses that go into the throttle body. Clamp them and disconnect them. The bolts that fasten the plenum are easy. @@koreymayo8884
@Swim Fan Besides the o-rings the kit also includes copper crush washers for the vvt line. The Fel-Pro kit is a complete valve cover replacement kit with everything that you need included.
8:44 I really don't recommend this. I did this at 220,000 miles and 2 of mine shattered. I had to hammer it out with a screwdriver as I literally had no other option, but for the last one I realized I can press it out with a large socket. To everyone else that reads it, press it with a socket instead!!! I spent hours hammering it out
I really don't recommend that anyone wait for 220,000 to change their valve cover seals. If you do wait that long, they will most likely be cooked into a glassy state that shatters easily. Keep up with your scheduled maintenance, and you won't have the issues that come from putting it off for too long.
What you want to see me take off the intake plenum and climb up on top of the radiator to reach the rear bank? I would not be able to shoot it. You are gonna have to picture it in your mind's eye.
@@FixItAngel But I do know that the connector for the rear AFR sensor is right behind the valve cover. Are you having trouble disconnecting it? Depending on the vehicle, it may be easier to reach from under the car.
@@Merryfrankster_ well I've been a master technician for the last 12 years at Christian Brothers Automotive and we don't pick and choose the vehicle to come in here so I've literally seen just about everything on the road
This is exactly like the 2007 RX350's valve cover gasket! Thank you very much for the video!
Thanks for watching!
the tube seals seem upside down in this video. take a look at "Tips for installing press-in-place valve cover gasket" by Fel-Pro Gaskets.
2008 Sienna - exactly same! Thanks for QUICK informative vid, with pro tips like sealant at timing cover/head seam! U da man!!!
Thanks for watching!
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE: Video creator did not mention the bolt in the dead center of the valve cover. PLEASE remove this. If you try prying it off with this bolt still in you will certainly break something. I started prying and noticed an abnormal amount of resistance and after stepping back and looking around I noticed the bolt in the middle. Cover is not going anywhere with that bolt in.
Thank you sir!
@@danielg2776 happy to help!
Thank you. This comment needs to be higher, or better yet, pinned for everyone to see.
@@1OldCutlass it may seem like no-brainer advice to an experienced mechanic but to a DIY fixer, like myself, it could be very helpful. I’m glad you can appreciate the importance.
Thank you!!! He did point to it but was just saying the size not what it does, you're a blessing
Great vid and quality!!! One suggestion: You don't need to unplug the wires of the ignition coils, because those wires' plastic plugs can break easily! You just need to take out the coils along with the wires plugged in. There is NO need to unplug the wires themselves. AND take pictures of all the bolts you remove.
Good point. I broke the connectors already though :(
How true - the plastic connectors become brittle and break at the slightest touch.
This is a real good method. It worked out great for me.thanks bro.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Very nice video straight to the point. Helped me comfirm a few things before I did this on my Sienna with same engine
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
How come you only change the gasket for the front valve cover but not the rear?
Sorry that I can't put everything in every video.
@@Merryfrankster_no I’m just wondering if I need to do both or is the front one is the one that commonly leak and not the rear one?
Great video btw.
@@HowToDoitright I've just replaced my spark plugs unfortunately have leaks from both banks so no it's not just the front unfortunately the back is going to be a b#$ch!
Wonderful instructional. Thank you!
Thank you for watching.
Hey Merryfrankster could you help in finding the rear bank valve OEM cover gasket? Toyota sells only the large valve gasket and not the oring, and double orings, and spark plug tube seals. Could u give me the part numbers
It all comes in the Felpro valve cover gasket kit.
Excellent instruction. Thank you
Thank you for watching.
Thank God for mechanics, the thought of doing this myself is terrifying.
Lmao it’s like legos for adults.
I’m a retired mechanic and it’s still a little unnerving for me. My Sienna has over 200,000 miles on it and the rear valve cover is leaking enough to cause concern. The thing that worries me most is getting those original spark plugs to break loose.
@@timsharpe3498 retired mechanic and you never changed your spark plugs after 100k?
@@danielhuerta6575
The recommended interval for iridium spark plugs is 140,000 miles and I think that may be a little conservative because every time I ever spent a huge wad on new iridium plugs I never noticed any difference other than a lighter wallet. Considering how Toyota buried half of them under an intake plenum and I also have to remove the wipers and air box I figured it wasn’t worth it until the oil leak came along.
what is the part number on that gasket kit?
As someone said I made the same noob mistake the spark plug tube seals are on backwards I had to take a fine flat head to get the back out with minimal damage it was time consuming my fault 😢
Frank I broke the porcelain of the spark plug in the middle rear well. I tried to blow it out but my nozzle has a 45 in it and maybe reaches 1/2 way down btw the plug is tight so no debris has fallen into the cylinder. What should I do thanks for your help
Use your shop vac with micro-cleaning attachments like this one. www.amazon.com/Wet-Dry-Accessories-VT1215-Attachments/dp/B0026T1FB6/ref=sr_1_52
@@Merryfrankster_ I used that exact kit and they are too short to reach the bottom of the well they are not able to be combined
@@PaulieWalnutss get a flexible rubber hose. Use it to extend the reach of the fixture.
This is why you pay a mechanic to do the job, no time for screw ups.
What’s the best sealant for the seam I used a Permatex sealant after 3 years it’s leaking again and I want to make sure I use the best sealant to do it again especially since the rear is leaking now
You can buy original Toyota sealant from your dealer. Personally I don't believe it performs any better than Permatex. If the seam is uneven, see if you can grind it down and make it more even. I assume you are referring to the joint between the timing cover and the head.
How come no one talks about the missing single grommet/ gasket under the valve cover that’s on the opposite side of the 2 gaskets that are shaped like an 8 -WHERE CAN I FIND THAT SMALL GASKET @8:30 , PLEASE I NEED HELP!!
This gasket you refer to is usually included in the valve cover kit. Also you can look up the part number on the Toyota parts system.
thank you for sharing!
thank you for watching and for commenting.
On this 07 2GRFE is that front VVT-i line a problem line as well with the rubber elbow? I’m curious because on my sons 08 ES350, I can only see the rubber elbow on the back. But, at this point, I’m concerned about the p/s pump being seized on and not sure at this point if I will have a local shop do it. Thx.
The front vvt line is all metal. There is no rubber section. The power steering pump should not be too hard to replace. Be sure to purge the system after replacing, or you will get foaming.
@@Merryfrankster_ thank you sir. My concern is just getting the pump moved out of the way. I don’t want to take the axle out to get to it. The p/s pump is fine…we just want to replace this line.
@@Brian-fo8sh normally you do not have to remove the axle. The pump comes out easily. I had to remove the axle in this video because the pump was completely stuck and would not budge.
@@Merryfrankster_ I might give it a try to see…and if I get to that point, I guess I can just put it back together. I’m a pretty good DIY’er but I know my limitations too. Thx for getting back with me.
This is for 2007 avalon?do you need adhesive or thats what you do?
You need to apply FIPG at the spots where the timing cover meets the head. You can use gasket adhesive to keep the gasket in place without falling out from the valve cover when you put it in place.
I broke some of the electrical connectors trying to disconnect them. Is it alrite if I plug them back in with the clip being broken?
This happens all the time. Check them periodically to make sure they do not come loose. You can try to secure them with a small zip tie. You can also put a dab of permatex on the connector to make it sticky.
Anyone have a video for the rear one?
It's essentially the same process, just 85 times harder. I hate toyota right now.
Just pretend the rear one doesn't exist
@@mediocreman2yeah they said buy a Toyota it's easy maintenance 😂. Never gonna listen this those RUclipsrs
@pardesi_life the 4 cylinder toyota engines are easy
Thats what I did with the rear spark plugs eff it. Literally toyota engineers didnt care about anyone working on the car. They'd rather sell you a new one. @@jackwobser8283
Any idea if this would be the same or similar process for a '06 solara v6???
06 Solara has the 3.3 liter 3mz-fe engine. The front valve cover is a lot easier on your car.
@@Merryfrankster_ thanks! I gotta do the rear too tho. My mechanic said I gotta remove a lot of stuff to get to it like the Throttle body and some other things. I'm hoping to find a video of a similar job to help me.
@@ooj686 I have a video for removing the intake for 3.0 and 3.3 1mz-fe and 3mz-fe. They are very similar. Look in my 1mz-fe playlist.
I have a 2008 Rav 4 and my valve cover has 8 M10 and 3 M12 bolts
@Merryfrankster - Sir, you are doing God's work here. I only wish I knew where you are so that I could come to you and baste you with praise.
I have worked on industrial machinery for a living for over 35 years, and nothing scares me about +Million dollar machines and such.
That said, I have reluctantly worked on cars sporadically for close to 45 years, and over the last 25 years or so, I get as nervous as a school girl at her first dance, every time I raise the hood on a vehicle. It's not that I can't do the work - it's just that I don't even know what a lot of the parts are that I end up having to monkey with, and that alone harshes my calm.
I need to access under my valve cover in a 2008 Highlander with the exact engine you just showed, and after unplugging all the electrical / control connections, I got increaingly 'shook' by the minute as I realized more and more that I was so clueless as to what I was unplugging, as to be totally unqualified to do this job.
But then I took a few steps back and found this video - which not only set my mind at ease about knowing a great bit more than I knew ~15 minutes ago, but let me see where I was about to screw up in places I'd prefer not to screw up in. And after I scanned the comments for additional insight on the job, I realized that there are a few parts that I need to have on hand when I do the job that I didn't even know existed.
Thank you for watching. Keep the faith.
This is where I draw the line for DIY🤦♂
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
What is the size of the two copper washers for the banjo bolt? Thanks!
I buy them from Toyota so I have never bothered measuring them. But if I recall correctly the banjo bolt is 12mm.
Is this the same as a 2007 Lexus Es 350?
Pretty much same - the engine harness routing may be a little bit different.
I doubt anyone will reply in time before I just google it but is there a specific torque pattern to make sure it tightens evenly ???
Start from the middle, criss-cross, in successive passes.
@@Merryfrankster_ thanks I got it I have to do the backside and thinking of just paying my work to do it honestly
I need help with a P0017 bank 1 sensor b code . What can that be . It’s for this exact car
You need to replace Bank 1 Exhaust camshaft position sensor. Bank 1 is the one in the back. The sensor is all the way in the back, on the right side of the valve cover as you face toward the rear of the car (transmission side). I have never been able to reach this sensor without removing the intake plenum. If you replace this sensor, 99% certain the code will go away.
@@Merryfrankster_ you are absolutely the best ! Thank you so much
He put the spark plug tube gasket in backwards 😮
I heard the torque spec for banjo bolt and started tightening it halfway tightened I’m like dang this is really hard resume the video and hear your warning about cross threading immediately after I just cross theaded it.
OUCH! OWIE! i dunno what to say. Take the valve cover off. Rethread the hole - M12x1.25 if I remember right. Clean it out thoroughly before re-install.
Don't trust me on the thread specification. double check it.
@@Merryfrankster_ not that,I broke it when I paused and then resumed it and heard your warning and was like dang I really should watch the whole video first.
@@camdenp366 k then sounds like you dodged the bullet this time.
Thanks
Welcome
I was hoping you would show the rear also.
It's not that much different - but you have to remove the intake plenum, and if your car requires it, you also remove the windshield wiper tray.
@Merryfrankster_ how difficult is it to remove the intake plenum?
the plenum has some support brackets on the rear side that are a real pain to get to. You remove them. You remove the intake tube from the throttle body. You disconnect the vacuum hoses. You have two coolant hoses that go into the throttle body. Clamp them and disconnect them. The bolts that fasten the plenum are easy. @@koreymayo8884
@@Merryfrankster_ thanks
What Valve Cover Gaskets set did you use? 🤔
I usually use Beck-Arnley or Fel-Pro, depending on what my local store has in stock.
@Swim Fan That's weird I have bought many Felpro kits - the o-rings are inside a small plastic bag inside the cardboard box.
@Swim Fan Besides the o-rings the kit also includes copper crush washers for the vvt line. The Fel-Pro kit is a complete valve cover replacement kit with everything that you need included.
8:44 I really don't recommend this. I did this at 220,000 miles and 2 of mine shattered. I had to hammer it out with a screwdriver as I literally had no other option, but for the last one I realized I can press it out with a large socket. To everyone else that reads it, press it with a socket instead!!! I spent hours hammering it out
I really don't recommend that anyone wait for 220,000 to change their valve cover seals. If you do wait that long, they will most likely be cooked into a glassy state that shatters easily. Keep up with your scheduled maintenance, and you won't have the issues that come from putting it off for too long.
agreed! using a socket is way to go!
The bank 2 I pretty easier. A video on bank 1 would be much appreciated
What you want to see me take off the intake plenum and climb up on top of the radiator to reach the rear bank? I would not be able to shoot it. You are gonna have to picture it in your mind's eye.
Really? You would have to climb on the radiator for the bank 1?
@@wilsonemeka1833 Maybe if you're 7 foot tall with long arms you can just lean over to reach it.
These jerks moved it opposite side on newer 2grs .
Thank you for watching.
Not the back😂
For the back you need to remove the two plenum supports one on each side then remove the plenum and don't drop anything down into the intake ports.
@@Merryfrankster_ yes but there is more to it. There is one wire that goes over to the back of the valve. Do you know what I’m talking about?
@@FixItAngel Sorry, I don't know what wire goes to the back of a valve.
@@FixItAngel But I do know that the connector for the rear AFR sensor is right behind the valve cover. Are you having trouble disconnecting it? Depending on the vehicle, it may be easier to reach from under the car.
IMO worst V6 engine design Toyota ever designed in the hardest to work on.
Oh yeah? How many engines - total, all makes, all models - have you actually worked on?
@@Merryfrankster_ well I've been a master technician for the last 12 years at Christian Brothers Automotive and we don't pick and choose the vehicle to come in here so I've literally seen just about everything on the road
@@redvette2466 ok use the force then, and quit your complaining, or nobdoy will believe that you're a Jedi.
@@redvette2466 Signed: Yoda.
I am sure there are some things I find hard that mght seem a snap to you, but I don't cry like a baby about them. Man up.