Couple things that may help. After checking for level and plumb, pull corner to corner and check your diagonals. Make sure the number is the same, and you know your window is square. I also like to caulk the back side of the flange, to seal for air, water, bugs and it helps in attaching your window. Nailing the top flange can compromise the window, if there is any settling in the framing above. You can take a dremel or fine cutting tool, and cut your holes, so that they are slots. About a half inch, and if there is settling, the flange isn’t effected. It’s still held by the head of your nail, and the nail can slide down if needed. I will pull the house wrap into the frame opening, on the sides and bottom, to protect the wood. The top goes over the flange, just like you did it. The tape isn’t necessary on the sill. The window has weep holes for drainage and pulling the house wrap over, will do the same thing. I enjoyed your video and hope your not offended by my comments. FYI... don’t choke up on your hammer, or use two hands either... at least not on your videos. I had to say it...
i have a question for you sir, on the sill when you cut the wrap and fold it in, what do you do at the corners? doesnt something need done at the corners for protection when you do your diagonal cuts?
@@feralbigdog nothing wrong with taping the whole sill... letting the water shed. I don’t do the top cuz the water could get trapped behind it. I focus more on sealing with caulking flanges and trim materials. Also focusing on the drip edge installation. Here’s a trick I use on the bottom seal... if you shim the sill on the inside and pitch the sill to the outside of the house( just an 1/8 or so)it will help shed the water off the sill.
@@scottallen5269 i believe i saw that trick used by a youtuber called the essential craftsman, there is a project id like to do if we would ever be able to afford it(enclosing the back porch like mamaw and papaw had it), when i draw out my houses(ive been known to spend hours and hours, day after day doing carpentry on paper, placing every single element from floor joist to fly rafters in the drawing) i always draw in double window sills, so in a full size it wouldnt be hardly anything to tilt that out a little.
I'm not a contractor just a do-it-yourselfer. I would put silicone around the frame before I put the window in. And then expandable foam. But only when it's unfinished, you don't want to crush the window
Installing a window upstairs in our house, where there was once a door, was a mental block for me until I watched this video. Now I feel silly for being spooked by it. It was really easy. 'Preciate it!
Really surprised they don't recommend a big bead of caulk on the inside of the nailing flange. And even around the outside edge. Even with the wrap and tape. Dealing with a leaky two-year old egress window now.
Just wanted to say thank you so much for the excellent, quick, and informative video… My windows might be going in tomorrow, weather depending. I swear I have watched this at least a dozen times!
House wrap should be cut even with sheathing. Flashing should be sealed with a J roller. Nail fin according to manufacturers directions. Never, never flash bottom of window
@@rjcarr316 they say you’re not supposed to tape the bottom just in case water gets in. If the bottom is open it will give the water somewhere to drain.
My first carpentry job was with my friend and his dad installing windows. I just started learning framing but I really want to go back to windows, super easy and great money.
I'm new to the construction industry but I've been told not to tape the bottom of the flange, just incase any water does get in behind it, it will have a way to come out then. Makes sense to me logically. Just wondering your thoughts and reasoning for taping off the bottom. Thank you.
I just tape it to prevent air from blowing in. But yes I have seen it not taped because of the reason you mentioned. Siding is going to be on soon so I am not worried about water as much as air!
Shout out to Gerald! Installing windows is the one thing that is next to impossible to do alone. Love the vertical sliders! Brave man with the nailer. Another good video. Thanks Josh!
I’ll tell Gerald you said so. Yeah you definitely need to people. Especially when you have two windows mulled together. Yes the nailer is definitely more risky than a hammer. Especially if you are new to construction. I would recommend a hammer method to most people. Thanks for watching Amazing Framer!
I run the tape along the sides the same as the bottom and put one across the top. Overlapping it on top of the others working from bottom up like shingles
What is the purpose of the flexible window flashing? Does it prevent possible water damage in the future? Could it be used to seal around the window like the window tape?
I built my rough openings oversized so I could remove the temporary support wall and leave the old windows in until I go on vacation. I had to rebuild 35' of the wall in the master bedroom and bathroom because of termite damage. Did all the work from the inside. Now I'm ready to replace the windows as the ones in there are the original ones that were installed when the house was built. I'm already expecting to have to replace the sheathing and no way will I be able to remove all the siding, sheathing, size two rough openings, and install two windows in one day.
Hi I'm Donnie I was wondering if I could ask a question regarding windows? I bought replacement windows at a great price but I have new construction. How or where do I flush up the window to the outside plywood or flush to the inside 2×4 ? Thanks 😊
Can you make a video about window installation in a old house with siding already on it?I want to install a window in my bathroom but have siding I don’t know how to do it in that case.
Not necessarily... water can find a way. Heavy driving rains can push water sideways. The bigger culprit in my opinion, is ice. Ice climbs and makes bridges. And letting snow set on your roof or the gutters, will get you too. Melting then refreezing, the ice climbs up behind the roofing material. Something like up to 7” at a time, in any direction. Ice can find a way behind the windows and doors too. What I try to do, is to caulk (behind flange when setting windows and backsides of window trim and all seems, joints and and areas where different materials connect),use metal or vinyl flashing drip edge (make sure you have about a 1/4” bend going down the face of the top window trim........... 1/4” down sides too) Keep your cuts tight, and don’t fracture the material when installing. If I’m living in an area that’s gets a lot of rainfall or snow, or both, always use a pan. Dryer areas I wouldn’t worry about a pan. Right now I live in the high dessert of Oregon, people out hear don’t use pans much... some guys look at you and have no idea what a pan is. I built log homes in Cashiers, Highlands, Glenville and Sapphire valley. It get so much moisture, it’s a temperate rainforest. We used every trick we had installing windows and doors. Anyways Hope that was helpful
Question, when you install siding how does that finish to window? Are there different reveal sizes for different thicknesses of siding or whatever is used for outside finish? Maybe another video explaining finishes?
@@TheExcellentLaborer are you for hire? For home remodeling? In the Columbus Ohio. Or any recommendations. For someone who does do things like window replacement, builds attached car ports?
Dont you have To get à height from inside from the floor To top of window jam where did you guys learn how to install a window totally incorrect dude learn the right way to do a window
Nope... better to use a laser lever and a transit, that’s attached to a sky hook. Although, It’s not easy to hold the hot air balloon steady, if there’s high winds. But it must be done!!! Because starting with having your window sills at the height needed, to make sure your tops all line up is apparently impossible or just incorrect......... because I always forget to start with the door height as my control number... and... I forgot my tape measure too. Guess I’ll just a bucket and a half inch hose... wait... water levels don’t work either. I’m incorrect again.
Taping the bottom after the window is installed, you just made your sill pan useless because if water gets inside, instead of coming out it will build up and come inside the house since you just taped the escape gap shut.
If the window sill(framing) is tilted out, and the pan is sitting on the sill, maybe drill a 1/8 hole in the pan at its lowest point? Pans don’t always drain all the moisture out. That’s why the vapor barrier(that’s designed to breathe) should be wrapped inside. Having a air tight home that is sealed is important. But you still want the house to breathe. Controlled air flow systems, cross breezes, soffit vents, ridge vents, crawl space vents, ceiling fans, air handlers, the space under the interior doors... vapor barrier. Mold is the enemy
Just wanted to say thank you so much for the excellent, quick, and informative video… My windows might be going in tomorrow, weather depending. I swear I have watched this at least a dozen times!
![Chlöe - Shake (Feat. Jeremih) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aDs_1ufpfv8/mqdefault.jpg)
Couple things that may help. After checking for level and plumb, pull corner to corner and check your diagonals. Make sure the number is the same, and you know your window is square. I also like to caulk the back side of the flange, to seal for air, water, bugs and it helps in attaching your window. Nailing the top flange can compromise the window, if there is any settling in the framing above. You can take a dremel or fine cutting tool, and cut your holes, so that they are slots. About a half inch, and if there is settling, the flange isn’t effected. It’s still held by the head of your nail, and the nail can slide down if needed. I will pull the house wrap into the frame opening, on the sides and bottom, to protect the wood. The top goes over the flange, just like you did it. The tape isn’t necessary on the sill. The window has weep holes for drainage and pulling the house wrap over, will do the same thing. I enjoyed your video and hope your not offended by my comments.
FYI... don’t choke up on your hammer, or use two hands either... at least not on your videos. I had to say it...
i have a question for you sir, on the sill when you cut the wrap and fold it in, what do you do at the corners? doesnt something need done at the corners for protection when you do your diagonal cuts?
@@feralbigdog yes... I like to tape my corners. I try to protect the wood as much as possible.
@@scottallen5269 ok so do the diagonal cuts, then tape the corners, just the corners or the whole sill? all 4 or just the bottom corners?
@@feralbigdog nothing wrong with taping the whole sill... letting the water shed. I don’t do the top cuz the water could get trapped behind it. I focus more on sealing with caulking flanges and trim materials. Also focusing on the drip edge installation.
Here’s a trick I use on the bottom seal... if you shim the sill on the inside and pitch the sill to the outside of the house( just an 1/8 or so)it will help shed the water off the sill.
@@scottallen5269 i believe i saw that trick used by a youtuber called the essential craftsman, there is a project id like to do if we would ever be able to afford it(enclosing the back porch like mamaw and papaw had it), when i draw out my houses(ive been known to spend hours and hours, day after day doing carpentry on paper, placing every single element from floor joist to fly rafters in the drawing) i always draw in double window sills, so in a full size it wouldnt be hardly anything to tilt that out a little.
I'm not a contractor just a do-it-yourselfer. I would put silicone around the frame before I put the window in. And then expandable foam. But only when it's unfinished, you don't want to crush the window
Installing a window upstairs in our house, where there was once a door, was a mental block for me until I watched this video. Now I feel silly for being spooked by it. It was really easy. 'Preciate it!
I like that, no messy flashing tape on the nailing fin. I guess the caulk is done from the inside.
Really surprised they don't recommend a big bead of caulk on the inside of the nailing flange. And even around the outside edge. Even with the wrap and tape. Dealing with a leaky two-year old egress window now.
Just wanted to say thank you so much for the excellent, quick, and informative video… My windows might be going in tomorrow, weather depending. I swear I have watched this at least a dozen times!
X 5
House wrap should be cut even with sheathing. Flashing should be sealed with a J roller. Nail fin according to manufacturers directions. Never, never flash bottom of window
I agree that a lot of this looked wrong, but why not flash the bottom? I don't see how that would hurt anything (but probably not necessary either).
@@rjcarr316 I think he meant tape the bottom of the window.
@@rjcarr316 they say you’re not supposed to tape the bottom just in case water gets in. If the bottom is open it will give the water somewhere to drain.
Never tape the bottom of the window in case moisture gets in it has somewhere to go
My first carpentry job was with my friend and his dad installing windows. I just started learning framing but I really want to go back to windows, super easy and great money.
I'm new to the construction industry but I've been told not to tape the bottom of the flange, just incase any water does get in behind it, it will have a way to come out then. Makes sense to me logically. Just wondering your thoughts and reasoning for taping off the bottom. Thank you.
I just tape it to prevent air from blowing in. But yes I have seen it not taped because of the reason you mentioned. Siding is going to be on soon so I am not worried about water as much as air!
I think Joe was gonna say a prayer at 4:34 haha! Great job and thank you for posting the video!
Shout out to Gerald! Installing windows is the one thing that is next to impossible to do alone. Love the vertical sliders! Brave man with the nailer. Another good video. Thanks Josh!
I’ll tell Gerald you said so. Yeah you definitely need to people. Especially when you have two windows mulled together. Yes the nailer is definitely more risky than a hammer. Especially if you are new to construction. I would recommend a hammer method to most people. Thanks for watching Amazing Framer!
Another great video. Very detailed and the audio is crisp. High-quality.
Thanks Kenny! I’d to keep the quality up. I like to make the videos.
I use treated lumber For my window sills
I'm eager to see a replacement window video. Mainly I want to learn how to measure for ordering them.
Thank you kindly for sharing this
Thanks for the videos. I will be in the process of building a 30x32 shop and your videos give me a great idea to what I am getting myself into!
You’re welcome. I’m glad I can give you some insight. I know if you have never done this before he could seem intimidating. Thanks a lot for watching!
Thank you very well patiently explained getting the confidence to go with it
I run the tape along the sides the same as the bottom and put one across the top. Overlapping it on top of the others working from bottom up like shingles
Everything i read said do not put flashing tape at the bottom of the windows to allow water to escape???
goood job again man! thanks for making these and being so thorough in your explanation
I’m glad you like my content. Subscribers like you is what makes it all worth it. I’m glad I can help you. Thanks a lot for watching!
Thanks
I’m just curious about why you wouldn’t want to put the 4 inch flashing around the insides of the entire window ans not just on that bottom part.
What is the purpose of the flexible window flashing? Does it prevent possible water damage in the future? Could it be used to seal around the window like the window tape?
What about silicone behind the fin?
Enjoy watching your videos, good information and tips 👍
I appreciate you watching! Thanks a lot for the comment. I appreciate it!
it blows my mind that we still put windows in new construction homes in NC without a sill pan.
I like to use sill pans on all windows. Thanks for watching!
You didnt put any sealant between the back of window frame and the wood. .lol I'm learning but I've learned that ..
I use flashing tape. It seals around the window great. i’ve been building houses for years and have never had one leak using tape. Hope that helps!
I built my rough openings oversized so I could remove the temporary support wall and leave the old windows in until I go on vacation. I had to rebuild 35' of the wall in the master bedroom and bathroom because of termite damage. Did all the work from the inside. Now I'm ready to replace the windows as the ones in there are the original ones that were installed when the house was built. I'm already expecting to have to replace the sheathing and no way will I be able to remove all the siding, sheathing, size two rough openings, and install two windows in one day.
Why did you not flash the sides and top?
Your videos are the best 👌
No silicon bead along inside edge of window?
Buen trabajo
what kind of nails should we use?
1 1/2” roofing nails... galvanized
Hi I'm Donnie I was wondering if I could ask a question regarding windows? I bought replacement windows at a great price but I have new construction. How or where do I flush up the window to the outside plywood or flush to the inside 2×4 ? Thanks 😊
Can I purchase MI widows without being a contractor?
No caulk?
Why did you install a dry nailing flange? That's a whole tube of caulk you missed.
Was wondering the same thing
Do you later have to install shims before installing interior trim?
No you will not. After the drywall is hung it will be flush around the door. Good question!
Can you make a video about window installation in a old house with siding already on it?I want to install a window in my bathroom but have siding I don’t know how to do it in that case.
Great video
Them some lax codes in that area
I have a mobile home with existing windows... How do I remove the old & install new windows?
Can you use screws instead of nails?
Why don't we liquid nail the bottom of the window to the sill? Like we do with door thresholds.
Water shouldn't go in anywhere if the window is a nail fin right?
Not necessarily... water can find a way. Heavy driving rains can push water sideways. The bigger culprit in my opinion, is ice. Ice climbs and makes bridges.
And letting snow set on your roof or the gutters, will get you too. Melting then refreezing, the ice climbs up behind the roofing material. Something like up to 7” at a time, in any direction.
Ice can find a way behind the windows and doors too.
What I try to do, is to caulk (behind flange when setting windows and backsides of window trim and all seems, joints and and areas where different materials connect),use metal or vinyl flashing drip edge (make sure you have about a 1/4” bend going down the face of the top window trim........... 1/4” down sides too)
Keep your cuts tight, and don’t fracture the material when installing.
If I’m living in an area that’s gets a lot of rainfall or snow, or both, always use a pan.
Dryer areas I wouldn’t worry about a pan. Right now I live in the high dessert of Oregon, people out hear don’t use pans much... some guys look at you and have no idea what a pan is.
I built log homes in Cashiers, Highlands, Glenville and Sapphire valley. It get so much moisture, it’s a temperate rainforest.
We used every trick we had installing windows and doors.
Anyways
Hope that was helpful
Can you show putting a window in a brick home?
What is size of window?
Question, when you install siding how does that finish to window?
Are there different reveal sizes for different thicknesses of siding or whatever is used for outside finish?
Maybe another video explaining finishes?
No le puso flashing no good
Where are you located?
USA. East Coast
@@TheExcellentLaborer are you for hire? For home remodeling? In the Columbus Ohio. Or any recommendations. For someone who does do things like window replacement, builds attached car ports?
Why couldn’t that dude hand you the window right? Can’t find good help these days
Dont you have To get à height from inside from the floor To top of window jam where did you guys learn how to install a window totally incorrect dude learn the right way to do a window
Nope... better to use a laser lever and a transit, that’s attached to a sky hook. Although, It’s not easy to hold the hot air balloon steady, if there’s high winds. But it must be done!!!
Because starting with having your window sills at the height needed, to make sure your tops all line up is apparently impossible or just incorrect......... because I always forget to start with the door height as my control number... and... I forgot my tape measure too.
Guess I’ll just a bucket and a half inch hose... wait... water levels don’t work either. I’m incorrect again.
I hope I never see a window installed with this poor of water proofing.
Taping the bottom after the window is installed, you just made your sill pan useless because if water gets inside, instead of coming out it will build up and come inside the house since you just taped the escape gap shut.
If the window sill(framing) is tilted out, and the pan is sitting on the sill, maybe drill a 1/8 hole in the pan at its lowest point?
Pans don’t always drain all the moisture out. That’s why the vapor barrier(that’s designed to breathe) should be wrapped inside. Having a air tight home that is sealed is important. But you still want the house to breathe. Controlled air flow systems, cross breezes, soffit vents, ridge vents, crawl space vents, ceiling fans, air handlers, the space under the interior doors... vapor barrier.
Mold is the enemy
No caulk ???
Just wanted to say thank you so much for the excellent, quick, and informative video… My windows might be going in tomorrow, weather depending. I swear I have watched this at least a dozen times!