Hey Josh! I just wanted to say - I am incredibly grateful for your content. I have spent the last year building my family’s forever home, and your content has taught me everything from how to wire up panels, to installing doors, to running black iron gas lines. As a mother of six and woman- I have found it unbelievably difficult to get any local tradesmen to take me seriously let alone share knowledge on these subjects. I truly feel like I am able to do things because of your videos that I would never be able to do because I don’t fit in the conventional builder type. Thank you for your videos and always being a friendly face!
I wish you stayed next to me 😢 I also do a little of my own projects on my 60 year old house 🏠 because it's so expensive to hire help ! And they love over charging a woman 🤐
Savannah, dont take it personally. Im building my own house for my family and im actually a contractor. Just not in the area and state im building in. The local contractors act like i came from Mars and try to speak like im a moron. Worse, when I correct them and let them know Im also a builder they shy away and dont come back. It gives the trade a bad name.
Like your videos a lot! As for flashing window framing, I believe the wood itself should be sealed prior to incorporating housewrap. For instance, I flash the window seal (lower portion) first, then each side. I do not seal the top portion of the wood opening. I then pull in housewrap and seal tape bottom, left and right to initial tape. Then install window, use thinner (more flexible) flash tape to cover bottom, left, right portion of window flange.
Nice job. One thing I would change is to not rely on caulk if you can have a mechanical joint. I would lap the tape in the bottom corners rather than rely on caulk.
First, I counter flash by taping the sheathing to the framework before I put up the housewrap. You do not caulk or nail the bottom of the window. You want the bottom to be able to allow any potential water to drain down and out. So you only caulk and nail the top and sides. Then flash taps the sides, Also, before flashing the top of the window, install a top cap flash under the house wrap to the top window flange, then tape over it. Then, lay the house wrap over the top cap flashing and tape over that.
Hey Brother !! I don't do construction, but your videos have helped me !! I have been watching the contractor I hired, to enclose my deck. I educated by YOU, to make sure they are doing right !! Thank You !!
I am so grateful that I ran across one of your video a little over a year ago. Love all your video. My forever home is coming along. Thanks for the videos!!!
I am grateful for you as well! I built this RUclips channel for people like us. DIYers that want to get ahead by building their own homes. Congrats on your forever home. That is awesome! I appreciate you watching!
Hi Josh, Thanks a bunch for all the house-building tips you've shared! Your videos are really great - your explanations are clear, the demos are easy to follow, and you break down the steps in a way that even beginners like me can get it. I'm getting ready to build my own tiny house, and I've got to say, your videos are seriously boosting my confidence. A huge thank you!
I built this channel for people just like you. Someone who wants to learn a little bit about construction and DIY. You are very welcome! Thank you for being a part of this community. Take care!
Very concise, thank you. I appreciate you explaining the different types and dimensions of windows. That was what confused me the first time I did this. One note: I usually see it recommended not to fully silicone the bottom flange, with the justification that it will let any water that DOES manage to get back there escape. I'll be looking forward to seeing how you finish the siding around the window.
You’re welcome! Placing the caulking at the bottom, may do just that, but I would like to ensure there is no draft through the bottom of the window. Thanks for the comment!
Ive done more windows in remodeling but when ever I could, I love using the flashing tape. The important part on a remodel was making sure the wall thickness and whether it is drywall or plaster. I usually made my own extension jams on certain installs. I love the single double hung window especially for a first floor situation. Great install step by step Josh. 🔨🔨👍🏻
That makes sense when you were doing a remodel. It’s interesting you mention jam extension because my video coming out next week he’s about that on the door. I feel like single hung window as is all I needed for this garage. Thanks for watching David!
I haven't seen flashing tape used in other videos. I love his videos and have definitely learned a lot. I always look forward to his videos! Learning a lot before buying and doing things myself!
Flashing tape is the most effective way to waterproof a window. When you combine that with caulking, it is a great set up for the long-term window install. Thanks for watching my videos. Good luck with your project!
Awesome - as all-ways! Feature wise, I enjoy a double hung window with a full screen to drop down and raise up for better air circulation. For a garage single hung is fine. Also makes easier to completely remove & clean tracks every few years. I'll only buy those with pure virgin vinyl so frame doesn't resemble a clorox bottle in 6 months.. and finally, as required is a constant force balance system (it resembles a retractable tape measure) so there is no lubrication maintenance and cleaningbin those pesky spiral balance rodes, nor any strings to break over time. Peace out.😎
Thanks a lot! Yes double hung do have more features and like you said, for a garage I am fine with single hung. That is interesting about the pure vinyl you mentioned. I appreciate you stopping by. Take care!
Thank you for taking the time to walk through this. We are building a new house and this will help us cut some costs. I do have a question - you didn’t put flashing along the bottom of the window on the outside. Is that okay to miss or do you recommend to put along the bottom as well?
Not needed, gravity pulls the water down in this instance, not up… plus the window flange is caulked to the house wrap above that point, sealing it from air in addition to spray foam applied from the inside
Thank you, Rob! I really enjoy making these videos for my audience. I love knowing I can help people using video. Take care, and good luck on your projects!
I just bought the same stuff at Lowe's this weekend, doing some repairs and thought heck , I'll just replace the whole wall 😂 , probably not the best place for a rookie like me to start .
@@zachkershew7019 well it's all together, now if I can quit fishing long enough to put the drywall on lol, I wish Id done one thing different, but live and learn
Thx for the instructive video. Watch out though: if you use spray foam around the window you want to use the type specifically designed for windows and doors. The spray foam can you showed will tend to expand too much
Hi Josh, I think the polyguard WS20 is less sticky (easier to apply but less durable etc). Shouldn't Pro Grade Flashing Tape, or ZIP System "Huber Flashing Tape" (Flex-Tape or Stretch-Tape) be a better choice? Thanks!
You don't put flashing tape on bottom of window? Unfortunately my projects are mostly fixing other's mistakes so I'm trying to figure out fixims without having to completely re-do. Thanks for the info
Wrapping the house wrap all around the jab in not advised. Cut it in the middle of the jam, or cut it off on the outside, so the tape can cover the house wrap, osb, and the Nailer. On the top house wrap, you can skip tape it, incase if water does come down, it can escape through the tape gaps.
Can this installation method be used if replacing a window on a structure with t1-11 siding? Trying to avoid buying "replacement" windows without the nailing flange because it seems like a much more difficult install.
If you use the nailing flange and have expanding foam around the window, do you still need to use screws and shims in the window frame ?..say a 2x3 ft window ..
I bought two new construction windows as I have to rebuild my rough openings. I may have to cut the fin at the brick face on one and two sides for each window.
Did you not use shims under the bottom of the window? Most window installation videos say that’s a very important step so you can insulate under the window.
Modern windows are already Low-e Argon filled insulated. You're not adding much by squeezing in 1/4inch of insulation. Rather to have a solidly mounted window that's seated on the framing sill than on some thin cedar shims and secured by a vinyl tab.
The only thing I see wrong is wrapping the tyvek inside against the Studs. The spray foam for insulating does not stick well to the tyvek .. solution would be to trim the house wrap flush to the outside structure of the home so 2x4 or 2x6 stud is bare .. that way when you apply the spray foam in between the window and the stud on the inside it will stick to the wood jamb and stud thus not allowing any air to enter the home
When replacing the old wooden, single pane windows in my mom's kitchen last year (two total) a 36x32 Pella double-hung vinyl replacement cost me $362 at Lowes... the other 38x42 window was an even better quality, that was heavily discounted due to the nail flange being cracked and torn...I paid $200 for the $550 window, shaved down the nail flange on all four sides of a "new construction" window, essentially making it a replacement window.
I don't think you should be caulking under the flange on the bottom of the window, for the same reason you didn't tape it. Also, for wide windows that have a header over them that bears significant load, don't nail the top flange. Give the header the ability to flex under load.
Wouldn't it be better to silicone the nailing flange directly to the wood and then lay the house wrap over the allready installed window in case water gets behind the wrap ??
Good question. The window is made of plastic/vinyl. If you were to set it on a framing sill that's not level & square, it can shift and settle a bit. That makes it un-square. Even just a 1/8 inch out of square can make the window bind up and be hard to open and shut or not go up all the way, etc. That's why the other window he showed had a little shim under it. And, just like hanging a door, you want to shim around the sides and top too when the manufacturer suggests side-screw mounting like in a brick vinyl window.
I’m glad you are enjoying my content! Oh yes, we have a very good work relationship. I’m using the term helper to help the viewer understand what is happening. I appreciate your input!
As if anyone watching will be installing on a perfectly level and easy new construction…. Off to the next guy to actually learn how to replace windows.
How do you choose the right size of window? I'm measuring 34x58.5 I go to Lowes and nothing fits. Home depot has a 33.75x56.75 and then in description it has a RO that's a different number than that?????
This may be way too late, but you typically have windows that you already bought or already KNOW the size of. Then you frame according to the window sizes. Usually the window measurement is a whole number like your example would be a 34 x 59(which is still a bit of an odd number, I would assume it's supposed to be 60").... and the rough opening size would be 1/2inch more width and height. That allows you 1/4 inch on all sides to shim the window square & plum.
I could definitely do that but I will say the process is exactly the same. Only difference would be bigger or small pieces of flashing tape. I hope that helps!
You'll need to adjust the framing of the wall. Not too hard, assuming you have access. If it's a finished wall that you're remodeling, then it can be a pain.
@@sim539 That makes it a bit easier, though I will say the OUTSIDE can be the tricky part. If you use a new construction window with a nailing flange, you'll need to get the flange behind the siding, which may require moving or removing some sections. If you use a replacement window (no nailing flange, screwed through the side into the framing), then you'll probably have to add some kind of trim/molding to finish the outside. You you may have to cut or patch the siding in either case, depending on if you go bigger or smaller with the window.
This window is installed in a wood frame house. How would the window be installed on a concrete rough opening? Same type of window, or a different type of nailing flange? In Florida 😎
Hey Josh! I just wanted to say - I am incredibly grateful for your content. I have spent the last year building my family’s forever home, and your content has taught me everything from how to wire up panels, to installing doors, to running black iron gas lines. As a mother of six and woman- I have found it unbelievably difficult to get any local tradesmen to take me seriously let alone share knowledge on these subjects. I truly feel like I am able to do things because of your videos that I would never be able to do because I don’t fit in the conventional builder type. Thank you for your videos and always being a friendly face!
Gorgeous
What a tank
I wish you stayed next to me 😢 I also do a little of my own projects on my 60 year old house 🏠 because it's so expensive to hire help ! And they love over charging a woman 🤐
Savannah, dont take it personally. Im building my own house for my family and im actually a contractor. Just not in the area and state im building in. The local contractors act like i came from Mars and try to speak like im a moron. Worse, when I correct them and let them know Im also a builder they shy away and dont come back. It gives the trade a bad name.
Your parents raised a blessed woman.
Happy to see Stiffler found his true passion. Keep up the good work!
Like your videos a lot! As for flashing window framing, I believe the wood itself should be sealed prior to incorporating housewrap. For instance, I flash the window seal (lower portion) first, then each side. I do not seal the top portion of the wood opening. I then pull in housewrap and seal tape bottom, left and right to initial tape. Then install window, use thinner (more flexible) flash tape to cover bottom, left, right portion of window flange.
Nice job. One thing I would change is to not rely on caulk if you can have a mechanical joint. I would lap the tape in the bottom corners rather than rely on caulk.
First, I counter flash by taping the sheathing to the framework before I put up the housewrap. You do not caulk or nail the bottom of the window. You want the bottom to be able to allow any potential water to drain down and out. So you only caulk and nail the top and sides. Then flash taps the sides, Also, before flashing the top of the window, install a top cap flash under the house wrap to the top window flange, then tape over it. Then, lay the house wrap over the top cap flashing and tape over that.
Hey Brother !! I don't do construction, but your videos have helped me !! I have been watching the contractor I hired, to enclose my deck. I educated by YOU, to make sure they are doing right !!
Thank You !!
I am so grateful that I ran across one of your video a little over a year ago. Love all your video. My forever home is coming along. Thanks for the videos!!!
I am grateful for you as well! I built this RUclips channel for people like us. DIYers that want to get ahead by building their own homes. Congrats on your forever home. That is awesome! I appreciate you watching!
Hi Josh,
Thanks a bunch for all the house-building tips you've shared! Your videos are really great - your explanations are clear, the demos are easy to follow, and you break down the steps in a way that even beginners like me can get it. I'm getting ready to build my own tiny house, and I've got to say, your videos are seriously boosting my confidence. A huge thank you!
I built this channel for people just like you. Someone who wants to learn a little bit about construction and DIY. You are very welcome! Thank you for being a part of this community. Take care!
Very concise, thank you. I appreciate you explaining the different types and dimensions of windows. That was what confused me the first time I did this.
One note: I usually see it recommended not to fully silicone the bottom flange, with the justification that it will let any water that DOES manage to get back there escape.
I'll be looking forward to seeing how you finish the siding around the window.
You’re welcome! Placing the caulking at the bottom, may do just that, but I would like to ensure there is no draft through the bottom of the window. Thanks for the comment!
That's fair, but you've still got the insulation/foam to stop drafts!
Ive done more windows in remodeling but when ever I could, I love using the flashing tape. The important part on a remodel was making sure the wall thickness and whether it is drywall or plaster. I usually made my own extension jams on certain installs. I love the single double hung window especially for a first floor situation.
Great install step by step Josh. 🔨🔨👍🏻
That makes sense when you were doing a remodel. It’s interesting you mention jam extension because my video coming out next week he’s about that on the door. I feel like single hung window as is all I needed for this garage. Thanks for watching David!
@@TheExcellentLaborer can't wait for the next video for sure. 🔨👍🏻
I haven't seen flashing tape used in other videos. I love his videos and have definitely learned a lot. I always look forward to his videos! Learning a lot before buying and doing things myself!
In my experience, flashing tape is actually not easy to find in the US. My local shops had no clue what it was.
Flashing tape is the most effective way to waterproof a window. When you combine that with caulking, it is a great set up for the long-term window install. Thanks for watching my videos. Good luck with your project!
Online and some big box stores have it. I hope that helps!
That’s incredible! A house with a level window framing! Probably one of just a few in the country
Awesome - as all-ways!
Feature wise, I enjoy a double hung window with a full screen to drop down and raise up for better air circulation. For a garage single hung is fine. Also makes easier to completely remove & clean tracks every few years.
I'll only buy those with pure virgin vinyl so frame doesn't resemble a clorox bottle in 6 months.. and finally, as required is a constant force balance system (it resembles a retractable tape measure) so there is no lubrication maintenance and cleaningbin those pesky spiral balance rodes, nor any strings to break over time.
Peace out.😎
Thanks a lot! Yes double hung do have more features and like you said, for a garage I am fine with single hung. That is interesting about the pure vinyl you mentioned. I appreciate you stopping by. Take care!
One of the better vinyl window installation videos out there, great work!
best vid ive seen on installing AND proper use of insulating tape
Thank you for taking the time to walk through this. We are building a new house and this will help us cut some costs. I do have a question - you didn’t put flashing along the bottom of the window on the outside. Is that okay to miss or do you recommend to put along the bottom as well?
Not needed, gravity pulls the water down in this instance, not up… plus the window flange is caulked to the house wrap above that point, sealing it from air in addition to spray foam applied from the inside
Thank u for your videos i use them alot . You explain things really good.
Thank you, Rob! I really enjoy making these videos for my audience. I love knowing I can help people using video. Take care, and good luck on your projects!
I just bought the same stuff at Lowe's this weekend, doing some repairs and thought heck , I'll just replace the whole wall 😂 , probably not the best place for a rookie like me to start .
How'd it go?
@@zachkershew7019 well it's all together, now if I can quit fishing long enough to put the drywall on lol, I wish Id done one thing different, but live and learn
@@zachkershew7019 I'm glad guy's like share the knowledge and experience, thanks 👍
Great video. I was wondering do you leave the shim in the uneven window or do you remove it once you nail the window in.
Thx for the instructive video. Watch out though: if you use spray foam around the window you want to use the type specifically designed for windows and doors. The spray foam can you showed will tend to expand too much
This is just the video I was looking for for a window replacement. Thanks!
Another great video from you! Clear and simple
Awesome, very throughly explained yet simply process.
You are the Best Josh
Brother, you are amazing! Keep going!
This video saved me $11,000.
Great content. I learn so much from your videos
Thank you for instructional video…hi from Prince George, BC
i sure am glad you took the 5 min to explain how to cut that paper, i never would have figured that out
As always, excellent content! Thanks for sharing.
Extremely helpful! I plan to replace my old windows DIY as well
Great easy to follow. Thanks much!
Hi Josh, I think the polyguard WS20 is less sticky (easier to apply but less durable etc). Shouldn't Pro Grade Flashing Tape, or ZIP System "Huber Flashing Tape" (Flex-Tape or Stretch-Tape) be a better choice? Thanks!
nice vid thanks. one question is it not necessary to cover the bottom nail holes with flashing?
Looks great Great video 👍
Thanks! 👍
What about a rain drip strip on top of the window?
You don't put flashing tape on bottom of window?
Unfortunately my projects are mostly fixing other's mistakes so I'm trying to figure out fixims without having to completely re-do. Thanks for the info
No, in case water gets somewhere behind it has a place to flow out the bottom.
Gracias 🎉😊
You are welcome!
Awesome video mate!
Really informative. Thank you.
I appreciate that. Thank you for watching!
Aren't you supposed to leave a gap between the window and the sill?
Thanks for another great how 2!
Is this process the same for stucco exterior? Or is there different windows for different exterior walls. (Stucco/siding)?
Wrapping the house wrap all around the jab in not advised. Cut it in the middle of the jam, or cut it off on the outside, so the tape can cover the house wrap, osb, and the Nailer. On the top house wrap, you can skip tape it, incase if water does come down, it can escape through the tape gaps.
Can this installation method be used if replacing a window on a structure with t1-11 siding? Trying to avoid buying "replacement" windows without the nailing flange because it seems like a much more difficult install.
If you use the nailing flange and have expanding foam around the window, do you still need to use screws and shims in the window frame ?..say a 2x3 ft window ..
I bought two new construction windows as I have to rebuild my rough openings. I may have to cut the fin at the brick face on one and two sides for each window.
So easy. Thank you!
No problem, you are welcome!
Very informative
Thank you!
I'm so happy to watch this video 😂😂😂😂
Josh, wish you had one installing a new construction bay window and constructing a hip roof above it.
please tell me, have you posted a video on How To Install A Window on existing Brick house ?
So, I do not have a new build, Could I use a new build window and place on a older house? I am replacing the siding anyways
Very useful thank you
Did you not use shims under the bottom of the window? Most window installation videos say that’s a very important step so you can insulate under the window.
Modern windows are already Low-e Argon filled insulated. You're not adding much by squeezing in 1/4inch of insulation. Rather to have a solidly mounted window that's seated on the framing sill than on some thin cedar shims and secured by a vinyl tab.
Bro what part of Delco you from ?
The only thing I see wrong is wrapping the tyvek inside against the Studs. The spray foam for insulating does not stick well to the tyvek .. solution would be to trim the house wrap flush to the outside structure of the home so 2x4 or 2x6 stud is bare .. that way when you apply the spray foam in between the window and the stud on the inside it will stick to the wood jamb and stud thus not allowing any air to enter the home
Do you have a video on how to replace a window on an already built house?
Hello, sir, I am a Chinese fastener manufacturer, mainly producing self-cutting screws. Do you have any needs?
Nice job
Can you please show how to install replacement windows as we are doing a full renovation.
Seconded! Most people watching these channels are doing reno rather than building a new house :D
Stay tuned, because eventually I will be doing projects such as renovations. Thanks for watching this one!
Hopefully soon. I dont trust the other videos out there. Your the best. And our windows are ordered.
When replacing the old wooden, single pane windows in my mom's kitchen last year (two total) a 36x32 Pella double-hung vinyl replacement cost me $362 at Lowes... the other 38x42 window was an even better quality, that was heavily discounted due to the nail flange being cracked and torn...I paid $200 for the $550 window, shaved down the nail flange on all four sides of a "new construction" window, essentially making it a replacement window.
Great video. Thanks
Thanks! I hope it helps!
Good video would be putting a window anywhere like cutting a opening for a window .
Thanks a lot for the video idea! I’m always open to hear recommendations from my viewers. Take care!
Very useful! 👍
I try to make all of my videos easy to follow and useful in the real world. I hope it helps. Thanks!
How about the moldings around the window?
🪟 Nice video ❤ But a lot of builders are doing lousy job with brand new house. It is a freaking nightmare‼️
I don't think you should be caulking under the flange on the bottom of the window, for the same reason you didn't tape it. Also, for wide windows that have a header over them that bears significant load, don't nail the top flange. Give the header the ability to flex under load.
Appreciated josh
The last time I installed a new window flashing tape did not exist. I am happy to see it now.
My 35 year old house seconds that!
Wouldn't it be better to silicone the nailing flange directly to the wood and then lay the house wrap over the allready installed window in case water gets behind the wrap ??
Thank you sir
how/what is the quality of the american craftsman windows?
Could you please explain why it would be necessary to check for squareness of a pre-manufactured window? Isn't that a given?
It's not about the squareness of the window itself it's about the squareness of how the window is sitting in it's rightful place
Good question. The window is made of plastic/vinyl. If you were to set it on a framing sill that's not level & square, it can shift and settle a bit. That makes it un-square. Even just a 1/8 inch out of square can make the window bind up and be hard to open and shut or not go up all the way, etc. That's why the other window he showed had a little shim under it. And, just like hanging a door, you want to shim around the sides and top too when the manufacturer suggests side-screw mounting like in a brick vinyl window.
Thank you
I am enjoying your educational videos, and I understand these are your videos, but the guys that help you at least call them by their name.
I’m glad you are enjoying my content! Oh yes, we have a very good work relationship. I’m using the term helper to help the viewer understand what is happening. I appreciate your input!
As if anyone watching will be installing on a perfectly level and easy new construction….
Off to the next guy to actually learn how to replace windows.
Why nails and not screws? Can external rated screws be used?
Have you ever seen what happens to screws when you bend them
Nice!
An excellent laborer can do it in 11:59mins!
Can’t be excellent every time😃 Thanks for the comment!
Good luck 👍💓✨💗💖
How do you choose the right size of window? I'm measuring 34x58.5 I go to Lowes and nothing fits. Home depot has a 33.75x56.75 and then in description it has a RO that's a different number than that?????
RO 34.25x57.25
This may be way too late, but you typically have windows that you already bought or already KNOW the size of. Then you frame according to the window sizes. Usually the window measurement is a whole number like your example would be a 34 x 59(which is still a bit of an odd number, I would assume it's supposed to be 60").... and the rough opening size would be 1/2inch more width and height. That allows you 1/4 inch on all sides to shim the window square & plum.
How do I know what type of wood my wall is?
Are you referring to what type of wood the framing is, or type of wood the sheathing is?
@@TheExcellentLaborer The framing, I'm in the process of changing my windows.
thanks for your sharing!!!!!!
Can please make a video on how to install a window a bit smaller or larger then the original
I could definitely do that but I will say the process is exactly the same. Only difference would be bigger or small pieces of flashing tape. I hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer thanks
You'll need to adjust the framing of the wall. Not too hard, assuming you have access. If it's a finished wall that you're remodeling, then it can be a pain.
@@institches2750 we are going to re sheet rock the walls thanks
@@sim539 That makes it a bit easier, though I will say the OUTSIDE can be the tricky part. If you use a new construction window with a nailing flange, you'll need to get the flange behind the siding, which may require moving or removing some sections. If you use a replacement window (no nailing flange, screwed through the side into the framing), then you'll probably have to add some kind of trim/molding to finish the outside. You you may have to cut or patch the siding in either case, depending on if you go bigger or smaller with the window.
i was looking for how to install a window, and this the the literal how to install a window. lol
What do you mean by plum?
Straight up and down using a bubble level.
Where's the accent from ???
Words like ' opening ' ....
Very distinctive !!!
This window is installed in a wood frame house. How would the window be installed on a concrete rough opening? Same type of window, or a different type of nailing flange? In Florida 😎
If the framers do thier jobs right every windows should go fast
Can thick blue tuck tape be used instead of that specialized kind you used ??
NO!. The blue duck tape will crack over time.
So you only flash the sill and not the whole rough opening.
Great video. However, personally, I still would recommend using a roller to seal the tape. Not just your hand.
Roller probably does give the best seal, but using anything to create pressure does just that. Thanks for your input!
Don’t use the orange can use blue can of can insulation
Plumbness is making sure the window is sticking out equally bottom and top
Hayes Stravenue
I see you leave the bottom of the flap to let water run out.
should have spaced the bottom of the window too
Where these 3x5 windows?
Yes 3’ x 5’. I hope that helps!
Sounds like Dr. Evil
diy with no siding on