Johnstones is the best on the market now these days. when I tell new customers how much stuff like this is they want to get their own but then they don't realise the extra will go on labour when I'm having to do 4-5 coats. If im doing a occupied house sort do it through out the year and by the time its all done they say needs doing again well thats what you get buying cheap. No such thing as a cheap paint job try and save money on it it bite you in the ass
@@RickyHudson-cj4un I was mainly talking about the heavy acrylic paints. the vinyl matt is good price and its the best on the market and they have just improved it too
If I get a job with nicotine involved. This is the only product I use. It's never let me down once. I also get it mixed in the wall colour too. Price the job accordingly and explain the quality of materials being used and the customer won't mind at all. It's one of the best products on the market. But you do need to leave it 4hrs between coats. Great video Phil 👍🏻
You mentioned the 'brush killer'. Are you aware Jonnos have a new range of aquaguard undercoat, gloss and matt?. I look forward to you reviewing them .
Seems like a great product for exactly what you had here, nicotine stained room, to save some labour on extra coats but I can’t see what other uses it has. And nicotine stained homes are very rare but I’ll remember this product 👍🏼
Great vid, seeing as you mentioned thick paint and pulling i have a suggestion for a quick vid. Most diy'ers prob just use dulux on their walls and if you use their 'easycare' or wipable emulsions there are big issues with the paint gelling and pulling even after a matter of 30 seconds or so. Think it must the the additive that makes them durable. The easiest way around it is to let your cutting in dry for an hour or two then roller up to it, the results look the same but it is tedious. Keep up the great vids!
This is great stuff for covering nicotine stains, not so for water damage stains.. I've found nonsense stain sealer spray from screwfix is the absolute best for water damage stains... Quick and easy to use, spray it on straight from the can, couple of coats👍
Phil what pain would you use for a north west room with a small window. I'd like to have as much light as possible. I was thinking Tikkurila AR2 for ceiling and would crown clean extreme white matt do the job? Or anything else with a shine, eggshells? What would you recommend? Great vids, love watching ❤
hi, tnx. colours the lighter the better... but if you want dark, youcan do that.. whatching the recent videos on the Tv/Games room make over? Ceiling.... AR2 or Isomat eiling paint Walls..... durable matt... in Johnstones or Albany. Isomat Premium color, Optiva 3 (i find that too dry a finish) with a very slight sheen. H&G Low Sheen, Isoat Professional Color. Optiva 5(I've goe off optiva 5 now having used the other paints). woodwork, keep with a satin finish.
Looks a good product Phil, as you say more a specialist paint at that price. Looks like it’s more central heating that has discoloured the ceiling more than nicotine. I’d be tempted if it was nicotine, to wash off nicotine first. Then apply product. I’ve seen nicotine bleed. Sure way is wash what you can first. Love the old cornice.
Have you ever tried to wash nicotine or smoke damaged properties ? I have and worked on them perpetually for a few years. In most cases, the washing makes things worse unless you are prepared to spend days on washing, rinsing etc with strong de-greasers/cleaners. After all that effort, you may still require a stain block. Believe it or not I've tried straight on with emulsion after smoke damage and shellac before emulsioning. There was no difference in the short-term but professionally speaking, the shellac method would be preferred.
Hi Phil, ive used this on my internal garage walls that ive ply lined...Nice paint. My Question is , would i be able to overpaint this in same colour but using the bedec MSP ? I decided id prefer a matt finish instead of the semi gloss ? TIA Grant
Great paint this and worth a shot. However water damage in particular can be little suspect sometimes it works great and others not so much. Definitely allow 4 hours recoat.
I've used this in a heavily nicotined property but had to revert back to Zinsser Bin. The problem I had was that it sucked the stain out of the substrate whilst wet, turning it yellow, despite having cleaned everything with S/soap prior. The old bloke who used to live in the property hadn't decorated for decades .... I think he must have smoked old tractor tyres or something. It was the worst I ve seen in 30 years of decorating! 😅
I could see it could be useful in nicotine stained properties if it works and has been tested on such but on price, I see no reason on using on the whole ceiling if just a small area has a water stain. That would be throwing money or profit away where you could simply touch-up the water stains with a few brushfuls of shellac
And paint with any trade, ceiling paint of your preferred choice. You'd probably save 50% on materials that way. There's no point in handing over money where it's not required.
And paint with any trade, ceiling paint of your preferred choice. You'd probably save 50% on materials that way. There's no point in handing over money where it's not required.
Materials are covered all in the quote given, so costs are covered. Why touch up with shellac if your bothered about price, just use some cheap oil undercoat. StainAway... Two coats over a nicotine ceiling... Done Again, all priced and accounted for. Materials are a small price of the job compared to labour costs. Again... Quoted for and not estimated and definitely not day rate with customer going out buying the paint.
That's all fair enough but it wasn't a nicotine-stained ceiling you were painting was it ? Looked clean as a whistle to me. Yes, looked like good opacity and good whiteness but is it not a bit overkill to use an expensive, stain-blocking paint where there are no stains to block ? Pretty sure 2 coats of contract Matt most painters would have in the van would have done the same job at half the price with less wastage in both tins and paint.
only 50 yrs lol I say about the coving early on, 4mins in. The walls will be painted in before the coving is finished because the wall colour will be slightly painted onto the face of the coving as that bottom edge needs to be flooded in, also the band around teh top will be painted in with the wall colour as a feature, then once the walls and band are dry, the main part of the coving can be finished off with two coats.
Another point you made regarding Wallrock stopping cracks. This is absolute nonsense mate. No trade can guarantee cracks reappearing. If there's a fault in the build, there's a fault in the build. Period. I've had a fair amount of experience with Wallrock on ceilings and walls and the only good thing I have to say about it is it's quicker to hang. That's it. It does not stop cracks from reappearing or being very noticeable through the paper. It's also pretty useless of papering over bad walls as it's so thin it barely makes any difference at all. Extremely overpriced for what it is and you'd see this if tested. You want to review paste- the-wall liners and see the truth.
It may technically stop cracks from ripping through the paper but if we are talking about re-occurring cracks, asthetically speaking, then the visual reality of a crack protruding through the paper or almost protruding through the paper are pretty much the same. You can notice them both like an eyesore equally. So to say we have a product now that eliminates this is not true. There isn't a one size fits all answer to each property but screwing plasterboards to joists before filling is one option or a staggered re-boarding is another.
Johnstones is the best on the market now these days. when I tell new customers how much stuff like this is they want to get their own but then they don't realise the extra will go on labour when I'm having to do 4-5 coats. If im doing a occupied house sort do it through out the year and by the time its all done they say needs doing again well thats what you get buying cheap. No such thing as a cheap paint job try and save money on it it bite you in the ass
Jonos that good i use my special brushes,my home bargains..
@@ibanezrg470 Yes Johnstones trade not the retail they shouldn't even make retail its absolute rubbish and a waste of time.
Johnstones is cheap tho 😂 I get covaplus on the tint for £23 a gallon including vat
@@RickyHudson-cj4un I was mainly talking about the heavy acrylic paints. the vinyl matt is good price and its the best on the market and they have just improved it too
@@jackwardley3626 it's crazy the amount of brushes that paints ruined on me,my trusty arroworthy classic,ruined,that hurt...lol
If I get a job with nicotine involved. This is the only product I use. It's never let me down once. I also get it mixed in the wall colour too. Price the job accordingly and explain the quality of materials being used and the customer won't mind at all. It's one of the best products on the market. But you do need to leave it 4hrs between coats.
Great video Phil 👍🏻
You mentioned the 'brush killer'. Are you aware Jonnos have a new range of aquaguard undercoat, gloss and matt?. I look forward to you reviewing them .
Seems like a great product for exactly what you had here, nicotine stained room, to save some labour on extra coats but I can’t see what other uses it has. And nicotine stained homes are very rare but I’ll remember this product 👍🏼
Been using this for a couple of years 😂 brilliant stuff sprays lovely with a drop in
Great vid, seeing as you mentioned thick paint and pulling i have a suggestion for a quick vid. Most diy'ers prob just use dulux on their walls and if you use their 'easycare' or wipable emulsions there are big issues with the paint gelling and pulling even after a matter of 30 seconds or so. Think it must the the additive that makes them durable.
The easiest way around it is to let your cutting in dry for an hour or two then roller up to it, the results look the same but it is tedious.
Keep up the great vids!
Good paint. Dosent go a long way!
It does!
This is great stuff for covering nicotine stains, not so for water damage stains.. I've found nonsense stain sealer spray from screwfix is the absolute best for water damage stains... Quick and easy to use, spray it on straight from the can, couple of coats👍
Great vid as always definitely worth a look for future jobs 😃👍🏻
I have used it a few times and always worked well also good if you need to colour block dark to light colours.
Phil what pain would you use for a north west room with a small window. I'd like to have as much light as possible. I was thinking Tikkurila AR2 for ceiling and would crown clean extreme white matt do the job? Or anything else with a shine, eggshells? What would you recommend? Great vids, love watching ❤
hi, tnx.
colours the lighter the better... but if you want dark, youcan do that.. whatching the recent videos on the Tv/Games room make over?
Ceiling.... AR2 or Isomat eiling paint
Walls..... durable matt... in Johnstones or Albany. Isomat Premium color, Optiva 3 (i find that too dry a finish)
with a very slight sheen. H&G Low Sheen, Isoat Professional Color. Optiva 5(I've goe off optiva 5 now having used the other paints).
woodwork, keep with a satin finish.
Your dad at the start on his knees grafting away… 😂 I bet he’s thinking “put that feckin camera away and give us a hand will you son” 😂😂
Wow that's a fancy ceiling
blown vinyl and a lot of paint on over the years
Looks a good product Phil, as you say more a specialist paint at that price.
Looks like it’s more central heating that has discoloured the ceiling more than nicotine. I’d be tempted if it was nicotine, to wash off nicotine first. Then apply product.
I’ve seen nicotine bleed. Sure way is wash what you can first. Love the old cornice.
maybe, but a textured BlownVinyl ceiling paper... work smarter, not harder lol
Have you ever tried to wash nicotine or smoke damaged properties ?
I have and worked on them perpetually for a few years.
In most cases, the washing makes things worse unless you are prepared to spend days on washing, rinsing etc with strong de-greasers/cleaners.
After all that effort, you may still require a stain block.
Believe it or not I've tried straight on with emulsion after smoke damage and shellac before emulsioning. There was no difference in the short-term but professionally speaking, the shellac method would be preferred.
@@leezeraloe3821 ever used Classidur?
Hi Phil, ive used this on my internal garage walls that ive ply lined...Nice paint. My Question is , would i be able to overpaint this in same colour but using the bedec MSP ? I decided id prefer a matt finish instead of the semi gloss ? TIA
Grant
I can't see why you couldn't go over it with any Matt emulsion. You'll only be putting another water base on a waterbase paint
Great cover, from yellow to white ceiling... great product
Thank you! Cheers!
Does it cover blue tack stains?
Not sure. I'd thought so. But a can of PolyCell stain block is always handy to have.
Would you say this is also an odour blocker in regards to nicotine that is
I'd say it helped.
Great paint this and worth a shot.
However water damage in particular can be little suspect sometimes it works great and others not so much.
Definitely allow 4 hours recoat.
So with water stain it's still better to use bin?
BIN not that great water stains at times l have noticed better with coverstain or even dampseal@@davewright9312
I've used this in a heavily nicotined property but had to revert back to Zinsser Bin. The problem I had was that it sucked the stain out of the substrate whilst wet, turning it yellow, despite having cleaned everything with S/soap prior. The old bloke who used to live in the property hadn't decorated for decades .... I think he must have smoked old tractor tyres or something. It was the worst I ve seen in 30 years of decorating! 😅
How many coats had it had, as it encapsulates the stain on the first coat doesn't it?
Will this cover leeching lines
Leeching line
Have you sprayed it Phil?
No
The dads right johnos is usually always patchy
I could see it could be useful in nicotine stained properties if it works and has been tested on such but on price, I see no reason on using on the whole ceiling if just a small area has a water stain.
That would be throwing money or profit away where you could simply touch-up the water stains with a few brushfuls of shellac
And paint with any trade, ceiling paint of your preferred choice. You'd probably save 50% on materials that way. There's no point in handing over money where it's not required.
And paint with any trade, ceiling paint of your preferred choice. You'd probably save 50% on materials that way. There's no point in handing over money where it's not required.
Materials are covered all in the quote given, so costs are covered.
Why touch up with shellac if your bothered about price, just use some cheap oil undercoat.
StainAway... Two coats over a nicotine ceiling... Done
Again, all priced and accounted for.
Materials are a small price of the job compared to labour costs.
Again... Quoted for and not estimated and definitely not day rate with customer going out buying the paint.
That's all fair enough but it wasn't a nicotine-stained ceiling you were painting was it ? Looked clean as a whistle to me.
Yes, looked like good opacity and good whiteness but is it not a bit overkill to use an expensive, stain-blocking paint where there are no stains to block ?
Pretty sure 2 coats of contract Matt most painters would have in the van would have done the same job at half the price with less wastage in both tins and paint.
@@leezeraloe3821 yep, nicotine... 60 a day smoker house
Why didn't you coat all the coving in ,while you was up the ladder save time that's how I would done it and I'm 50yrs in the trade cheers .
only 50 yrs lol
I say about the coving early on, 4mins in.
The walls will be painted in before the coving is finished because the wall colour will be slightly painted onto the face of the coving as that bottom edge needs to be flooded in, also the band around teh top will be painted in with the wall colour as a feature, then once the walls and band are dry, the main part of the coving can be finished off with two coats.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator sorry Phil my mistake mate cheers 🍻
@@jeffreyoneill2625 you see it Thursday next week's video ;)
Another point you made regarding Wallrock stopping cracks. This is absolute nonsense mate. No trade can guarantee cracks reappearing. If there's a fault in the build, there's a fault in the build. Period. I've had a fair amount of experience with Wallrock on ceilings and walls and the only good thing I have to say about it is it's quicker to hang. That's it. It does not stop cracks from reappearing or being very noticeable through the paper.
It's also pretty useless of papering over bad walls as it's so thin it barely makes any difference at all. Extremely overpriced for what it is and you'd see this if tested. You want to review paste- the-wall liners and see the truth.
It does stop cracks, it won't stop subsidence.
What do you use then, scrim lining paper from the old days?
It may technically stop cracks from ripping through the paper but if we are talking about re-occurring cracks, asthetically speaking, then the visual reality of a crack protruding through the paper or almost protruding through the paper are pretty much the same. You can notice them both like an eyesore equally.
So to say we have a product now that eliminates this is not true.
There isn't a one size fits all answer to each property but screwing plasterboards to joists before filling is one option or a staggered re-boarding is another.
@@leezeraloe3821 put a heavy blown vinyl on.
🤠🤠😂😂