Ok so I’ve been using this Uni filter now in the Arizona Desert fo about 500+ miles and it actually works pretty dang good. I clean it after a couple hundred miles and my stock filter looks new. I oil the inside and out of the UNI and also removed the courser Red outer cover as it’s not really needed. I haven’t noticed any drop in power. It is kinda a pain to get to and clean but with a drill/screw gun it goes fast. I wash it in hot water and dawn and that part is super easy. Probably should order a second and keep it oiled and ready in a zip lock bag, that way there would be no waiting for it to dry. Over all this is way cheaper and less intrusive than any other method.
I'm going to try this. The 'official' particle separators are expensive enough I would rather just keep replacing the OEM filter. Anyway if this gets to be a hassle then I might try rigging up some external snorkel and putting the filter outside the box. If I get to dislike that I might get a small tractor pre filter. I used to drive a wheat combine and it was the dustiest job of all time. We had a pre filter on it and it did a pretty good job. I can probably buy a small one for about $40 however I don't think I will need to.
I have installed an enginaire pre filter on the outside where the original mounts you can't tell it's there used 3in 90 elbow from them also.i haven't been in dusty conditions yet but check out their RUclips. Used smallest one they had
Air filters on vehicles are often replaced prematurely because they look dirty and it's assumed they're being restrictive. I've seen many filters that were caked with crud that had no measurable restriction. I put a filter minder on my Talon and almost 300 dusty desert miles later it still shows no measured restriction. After each trip I look at the indicator and know that I'm good for the next outing. It beats the heck out of going through the work to look at the filter to then guess if it actually needs replacing or if it's just superficially dirty.
@@brianm2152 It's one that I had laying around, probably from when I worked at an International dealership. I installed it at the far left side of the filter cover right before the sharp bend to the sealing surface. When I pull the cover from the bed the minder is visible, but tucked to the left of the hole behind the plastic where the cover attaches. The one I used is a threaded type, there's also a push-in style with a rubber grommet. I drilled and tapped the cover because I have pipe taps, but you should be able to just drill and use the pipe fitting to form the threads.
@@brianm2152 Yes, and the cover is on the clean side. When the filter starts to plug up it'll start restricting air flow creating a vacuum from the engine working to pull air through the filter. The minder has a plunger that moves when it senses vacuum and stays there so you can see how much it pulled when you were driving. The more vacuum it sees the more the plunger moves and it has numbers on it to indicate how much vacuum was present. When you replace the filter, or just feel like resetting it, you press a button on it and the plunger drops back to the 0 location. It's purely mechanical, no electrical connections needed. I hadn't thought to find a link, duh, here's the one I installed- filterminder.com. Look at the yellow thing in the photo, that's the plunger I spoke about, and it's indicating just shy of 15" H2O vacuum. With a clean filter the yellow plunger would be up at the black band where it says "push button to reset." They read in inches of water, most automotive gauges read in inches of mercury. Water inches is a more 'sensitive' reading, meaning that you get a bigger number for the same amount of vacuum. The plunger will start to move before there's enough restriction to cause a power loss. There's a few benefits from using the filter 'till the gauge shows that it's time to replace. 1. Obviously it saves money and work checking/replacing the filter. 2. Every time you open the airbox you risk damaging something and risk debris falling into the clean side. 3. A dirty filter filters better. As the filter builds up some dust some of the larger 'holes' in the media get covered up meaning less large stuff can pass through it.
Would you happen to have an update on how well that uni pre-filter has worked out? Our riding time is getting near and I would love to try this before purchasing a particle separator. Love your videos and thanks for sharing! They have a ton of great information.
Jesse Robinson not yet. I live in the Midwest and when I installed mine the weather changed and the dust died down so I haven’t had a good chance to put it through the paces. I’ll likely do a follow up once the dust kicks back up.
Great info for saving Talon riders money on having to buy new OEM stock air filters. The UNI air filter you suggested is currently out of stock everywhere. I think the manufacturer has a stop on it. Anyway, does anyone know of another compatible cone air filter that can be used in place of this UNI filter "Jason" originally suggested? Thanks in advance!
The YXZ has the filter in a similar location. It sucks air in from inside the unit between the seats and the filter lasts for a long time. Why is the Talon filter getting so dirty? Does it get air from under the bed?
The short answer to your question is yes. It'd be hard to elaborate just through a comment on why it happens, but there's basically a mini-snorkel that comes off of the airbox on the passenger side that has a plastic fender well cover over it if you're viewing it from the rear passenger wheel well. I'm sure some air gets sucked up through there and then the actual air intake is on the passenger side of the machine directly behind the door (it's a moulded body scoop) and it probably pulls some dirty air from dust getting kicked up by the front passenger tire. If you look at a channel called "Honda Talon Owner" and watch his S&B Particle Separate install it'll probably make more sense. ruclips.net/video/jYCM5KSsHOU/видео.html
Jason I understand. My buddy just bought one so I was curious. We’re going to Glamis tomorrow for the weekend so I’ll check it out. I drove the Talon in the AZ desert and it’s awesome. Thx
Like the idea... It would be nice to mount the uni externally on the intake somehow.. for easier access.. I think it will get nasty quick.. Let us know how it works out.. Great idea..!!
Have this installed on mine at about 100 miles have almost 1300 miles on now the original oem filter had to clean the uni filter I think 4 times oem filter it almost all green yet, With riding conditions I do believe oem filter should be good for at least another 2000 miles
I saw your video earlier of your install. They look like they’d definitely be a nice accessory. I’m not opposed to one, but want to try some inexpensive options first that have less of a physical footprint before I commit to one. I’m in the Midwest and primarily woods ride so the dust is nothing compared to riding out West.
Jason Understandable. The particle separator is too expensive and very noisy. But constantly replacing air filters is expensive too. The turbo kit comes with a new air box and filter. So I’ll see how that works.
Yes very interested how this may help keep the OEM filter clean, at least until we find out what’s going on with the Turbo filter and air box? I’d hate to cut a 3” hole only to find out that with the a Turbo it’s useless.
Update on engineaire particle seperator after 400 miles filter was fairly dirty so I have put seperator on a snorkel to get it out of the enclosure that seems to hold the dust in . Will update again , Jason's unique filter seems like a great idea. But as he said a pain to get too
I think it was a worthwhile mod. I did sell the machine in October, but I used the UNI filter up until I sold it. It helps extend the factory filter life tremendously. Just make sure you keep the UNI filter clean and oiled so you don’t potentially restrict airflow.
It worked well while I had the machine, but I no longer have the Talon. I always made sure to check it after being in dusty conditions and had a second UNI filter I could put on while the other one was drying from being cleaned.
crazyflyboy30 the issue you’re referring to sounds like the issue from Ray Horvath Productions (RUclips channel name). It is not a widespread problem and was an isolated issue that was warrantied by Honda. The problem was not with the filter cover or contaminants bypassing the filter. It was, however, identified as a single unit that was improperly assembled at the factory where a gasket/seal on the throttle body adapter wasn’t properly tightened and allowed contaminants directly into the throttle body on the clean side of the air intake. Here’s a link to the video I’m referencing in my response: ruclips.net/video/dMNRVcembZk/видео.html Every machine will have issues of some sort, but I don’t want people to read your comment immediately assume the majority of Talons have some sort of air intake problem. I’m VERY active in the Talon ownership community on RUclips, forums, and Facebook groups and Ray Horvath’s is the only issue I’m aware of to date.
@@Jason____ Thanks for this comment re: Ray Horvath's problem. I have been trying to find if others had experienced the same issue. I always loved Hondas and that was the direction I was going. It's a big purchase and I want to make sure I can minimize issues up front, if I can.
It works great. I actually got a second one to keep ready when one gets dirty so I can oil it up and swap it out while waiting on the dirty one to be cleaned/dried. Just remember that this filter does not replace the factory filter, but rather is a prefilter that works with the factory filter so be sure you install both of them.
I went to the UNI filter site. If you type in Honda Talon you get 0 results / not found. Is there a model # so I can find this thing? Did you buy it directly from UNI?
This is not a Honda Talon - specific filter so that’s why you’re not seeing it on their site. It’s a universal filter. The links to the filter and filter oils via Amazon are in the video description.
Ok so I’ve been using this Uni filter now in the Arizona Desert fo about 500+ miles and it actually works pretty dang good. I clean it after a couple hundred miles and my stock filter looks new. I oil the inside and out of the UNI and also removed the courser Red outer cover as it’s not really needed. I haven’t noticed any drop in power.
It is kinda a pain to get to and clean but with a drill/screw gun it goes fast.
I wash it in hot water and dawn and that part is super easy.
Probably should order a second and keep it oiled and ready in a zip lock bag, that way there would be no waiting for it to dry.
Over all this is way cheaper and less intrusive than any other method.
Feather Ranch I bought one installing tomorrow and like you said gonna buy a spare. Thanks for update
I put one on my tractor intake years ago for a pre filter. I use no toil and love how great it traps dirt and cleans like a dream
I'm going to try this. The 'official' particle separators are expensive enough I would rather just keep replacing the OEM filter. Anyway if this gets to be a hassle then I might try rigging up some external snorkel and putting the filter outside the box. If I get to dislike that I might get a small tractor pre filter. I used to drive a wheat combine and it was the dustiest job of all time. We had a pre filter on it and it did a pretty good job. I can probably buy a small one for about $40 however I don't think I will need to.
I have installed an enginaire pre filter on the outside where the original mounts you can't tell it's there used 3in 90 elbow from them also.i haven't been in dusty conditions yet but check out their RUclips. Used smallest one they had
VERY interested to hear how this works out for you. Understandable that it might take awhile.
As always, thanks for sharing.
Steve
r2c air filter it is about 125 on ebay but u can b;low it out with air or wash it and keep reusing it also no oil required it works amazingly
Are you still using this air filter in your Talon? If so how is it working?
Air filters on vehicles are often replaced prematurely because they look dirty and it's assumed they're being restrictive. I've seen many filters that were caked with crud that had no measurable restriction.
I put a filter minder on my Talon and almost 300 dusty desert miles later it still shows no measured restriction. After each trip I look at the indicator and know that I'm good for the next outing. It beats the heck out of going through the work to look at the filter to then guess if it actually needs replacing or if it's just superficially dirty.
Can you share which filter minder you purchased and maybe a pic of where you mounted it or drilled the hole? Thanks.
@@brianm2152 It's one that I had laying around, probably from when I worked at an International dealership. I installed it at the far left side of the filter cover right before the sharp bend to the sealing surface. When I pull the cover from the bed the minder is visible, but tucked to the left of the hole behind the plastic where the cover attaches. The one I used is a threaded type, there's also a push-in style with a rubber grommet. I drilled and tapped the cover because I have pipe taps, but you should be able to just drill and use the pipe fitting to form the threads.
So I've never put one on before. I assume it goes on the clean air side of the filter, right?
@@brianm2152 Yes, and the cover is on the clean side. When the filter starts to plug up it'll start restricting air flow creating a vacuum from the engine working to pull air through the filter. The minder has a plunger that moves when it senses vacuum and stays there so you can see how much it pulled when you were driving. The more vacuum it sees the more the plunger moves and it has numbers on it to indicate how much vacuum was present. When you replace the filter, or just feel like resetting it, you press a button on it and the plunger drops back to the 0 location. It's purely mechanical, no electrical connections needed.
I hadn't thought to find a link, duh, here's the one I installed- filterminder.com. Look at the yellow thing in the photo, that's the plunger I spoke about, and it's indicating just shy of 15" H2O vacuum. With a clean filter the yellow plunger would be up at the black band where it says "push button to reset." They read in inches of water, most automotive gauges read in inches of mercury. Water inches is a more 'sensitive' reading, meaning that you get a bigger number for the same amount of vacuum. The plunger will start to move before there's enough restriction to cause a power loss.
There's a few benefits from using the filter 'till the gauge shows that it's time to replace. 1. Obviously it saves money and work checking/replacing the filter. 2. Every time you open the airbox you risk damaging something and risk debris falling into the clean side. 3. A dirty filter filters better. As the filter builds up some dust some of the larger 'holes' in the media get covered up meaning less large stuff can pass through it.
Looks like a great system, just stopped by to say hello new friend.
Would you happen to have an update on how well that uni pre-filter has worked out? Our riding time is getting near and I would love to try this before purchasing a particle separator. Love your videos and thanks for sharing! They have a ton of great information.
Jesse Robinson not yet. I live in the Midwest and when I installed mine the weather changed and the dust died down so I haven’t had a good chance to put it through the paces. I’ll likely do a follow up once the dust kicks back up.
I'm thinking about trying this too in order to prolong OEM air filter life. Let us know how it works for you.
Will do. Planning to include this in my 1,000 mile review video when that time comes.
Jason I installed and ran 250miles. The stock air filter clean a whistle. I also took your advice and ordered a second uni.
Thanks!
Great info for saving Talon riders money on having to buy new OEM stock air filters. The UNI air filter you suggested is currently out of stock everywhere. I think the manufacturer has a stop on it. Anyway, does anyone know of another compatible cone air filter that can be used in place of this UNI filter "Jason" originally suggested? Thanks in advance!
Kwt partical separator looks like a simpler design than the s&b and requires no fan or wiring also 50 bucks cheaper but out of stock currently
w
With a summer of riding, how has this worked out? Will it void your warranty?
The YXZ has the filter in a similar location. It sucks air in from inside the unit between the seats and the filter lasts for a long time. Why is the Talon filter getting so dirty? Does it get air from under the bed?
The short answer to your question is yes. It'd be hard to elaborate just through a comment on why it happens, but there's basically a mini-snorkel that comes off of the airbox on the passenger side that has a plastic fender well cover over it if you're viewing it from the rear passenger wheel well.
I'm sure some air gets sucked up through there and then the actual air intake is on the passenger side of the machine directly behind the door (it's a moulded body scoop) and it probably pulls some dirty air from dust getting kicked up by the front passenger tire.
If you look at a channel called "Honda Talon Owner" and watch his S&B Particle Separate install it'll probably make more sense. ruclips.net/video/jYCM5KSsHOU/видео.html
Jason I understand. My buddy just bought one so I was curious. We’re going to Glamis tomorrow for the weekend so I’ll check it out. I drove the Talon in the AZ desert and it’s awesome. Thx
Like the idea... It would be nice to mount the uni externally on the intake somehow.. for easier access.. I think it will get nasty quick.. Let us know how it works out.. Great idea..!!
Have this installed on mine at about 100 miles have almost 1300 miles on now the original oem filter had to clean the uni filter I think 4 times oem filter it almost all green yet, With riding conditions I do believe oem filter should be good for at least another 2000 miles
Particle separator is the best option so far from my experience
I saw your video earlier of your install. They look like they’d definitely be a nice accessory. I’m not opposed to one, but want to try some inexpensive options first that have less of a physical footprint before I commit to one.
I’m in the Midwest and primarily woods ride so the dust is nothing compared to riding out West.
Jason Understandable. The particle separator is too expensive and very noisy. But constantly replacing air filters is expensive too. The turbo kit comes with a new air box and filter. So I’ll see how that works.
Jason and good job on your videos!
Honda Talon Owner thanks. Same to you.
Yes very interested how this may help keep the OEM filter clean, at least until we find out what’s going on with the Turbo filter and air box? I’d hate to cut a 3” hole only to find out that with the a Turbo it’s useless.
Update on engineaire particle seperator after 400 miles filter was fairly dirty so I have put seperator on a snorkel to get it out of the enclosure that seems to hold the dust in . Will update again , Jason's unique filter seems like a great idea. But as he said a pain to get too
Good time for UNI to build a filter that will maximize the space available
Since installing this, I'm curious about your impression of the Uni filter inside the airbox a year + on?
I think it was a worthwhile mod. I did sell the machine in October, but I used the UNI filter up until I sold it.
It helps extend the factory filter life tremendously. Just make sure you keep the UNI filter clean and oiled so you don’t potentially restrict airflow.
Any updates on how this is performing? Thanks
It worked well while I had the machine, but I no longer have the Talon.
I always made sure to check it after being in dusty conditions and had a second UNI filter I could put on while the other one was drying from being cleaned.
Let us know how it works. Thanks
I have it i change mine 1500 miles
Awesome I’m having the same problem
Have you seen that Honda has a problem with the air filter cover and one guy had engine failure do to dirt bypassing the filter.
crazyflyboy30 the issue you’re referring to sounds like the issue from Ray Horvath Productions (RUclips channel name).
It is not a widespread problem and was an isolated issue that was warrantied by Honda.
The problem was not with the filter cover or contaminants bypassing the filter. It was, however, identified as a single unit that was improperly assembled at the factory where a gasket/seal on the throttle body adapter wasn’t properly tightened and allowed contaminants directly into the throttle body on the clean side of the air intake.
Here’s a link to the video I’m referencing in my response: ruclips.net/video/dMNRVcembZk/видео.html
Every machine will have issues of some sort, but I don’t want people to read your comment immediately assume the majority of Talons have some sort of air intake problem.
I’m VERY active in the Talon ownership community on RUclips, forums, and Facebook groups and Ray Horvath’s is the only issue I’m aware of to date.
@@Jason____ Thanks for this comment re: Ray Horvath's problem. I have been trying to find if others had experienced the same issue. I always loved Hondas and that was the direction I was going. It's a big purchase and I want to make sure I can minimize issues up front, if I can.
Update video?
Nice find Jason... How did it work this year for you, just got a 2020 talon and think this is great if it works well, please let me know. Thanks
It works great. I actually got a second one to keep ready when one gets dirty so I can oil it up and swap it out while waiting on the dirty one to be cleaned/dried. Just remember that this filter does not replace the factory filter, but rather is a prefilter that works with the factory filter so be sure you install both of them.
@@Jason____ thanks for the fast reply... i also ordered two.. Thanks again.. Happy Trails :)
Off topic but what tree kickers you using?
whiskies xxx AED Offroad Fab
I went to the UNI filter site. If you type in Honda Talon you get 0 results / not found. Is there a model # so I can find this thing? Did you buy it directly from UNI?
This is not a Honda Talon - specific filter so that’s why you’re not seeing it on their site. It’s a universal filter. The links to the filter and filter oils via Amazon are in the video description.
Jason - I don’t see any video description or the links you describe.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OKFTVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=ho061-20
Jason - Thanks!
Thanks for the Amazon link for this UNI air filter. Unfortunately it's unavailable now and of course they're not sure if it'll be back in stock. 🙄
Also it cost 120.00 all in