2010 Audi A4 A5 B8 Rear Brake Pads Replacement without Vagcom 2009 2011 2012 2013 2014
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- See My New Video updated with the solve for the Rotor removal: • Audi A4 B8 Rear Brake ...
Replace your rear brake pads on 2010 Audi A4 Quattro B8 without Vagcom. You take off the back of the caliper, it is SUPER easy! Links to parts are below:
Akebono EUR1018 Rear Brake Pads: amzn.to/2U7gsiL
Brake rotors: amzn.to/2tF1vce
Torx T30 and T40 sockets (hey, if you use a t27, I don't care): amzn.to/2BSP2WJ
6" C Clamp: amzn.to/2U6TOqU
Turkey Baster: amzn.to/2BUKAXF
Please like this video and subscribe to my channel for more great Audi A4 B8 videos!
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Rear Shocks: • Audi A4 B8 Rear Shocks...
PCV Valve: • AUDI A4 B8 2.0 PCV Val...
Spark Plugs: • 2010 Audi A4 B8 Spark ...
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I needed to replace the brakes on my 2013 S4, the fronts were easy. When it came to the back ones I had done my research and read and read about using VAC to reset the back parking brake. I somehow found this video and I watched and reviewed it several times. I decided to go for it and it worked. I will say before you try the parking brake once you are done make sure you have bled the brakes first. Remember you took fluid out so you could retract the parking brake. This video is well worth watching and it made doing the rear brakes so much easier.
Did replace rear pads on my B8S4 - removed electric pk motor and it did work. No need to pay big $ and for sure no need Vagcom. Thank you again.
Just replaced 4 rotors and brake pad sets on my 2014 Audi A4 and your video was very informative and helpful. Before watching I didn’t even know that the e-brake was going to be an issue. Glad I watched before starting the job this morning. All good now, thank you for taking the time to video your work.
Glad you got the job done! Thanks for watching!
I can't thank you enough for the awesome video. I only wished I watched it before I started replacing the rear brake pads on my car! I couldn't press the piston back and found other videos where the piston had to be turned, I didn't have the tools being used and ended up grinding down a socket to match the teeth on the piston. Still no luck and the thing just wouldn't wind back. Your video saved me!! I took the cover off the back and wound back the electric handbrake and bingo, the piston pressed back effortlessly. Thanks again!
Thanks for this vid! Way better than the others I was watching on the issue, you clearly showed everything that needed to be shown in the video. Worked like a champ changing out the rear pads on an Audi Q3
Great job! For those that dont know when using the c clamp use the old pad inbetween that c clamp and piston
Started with the car with the parking brake off, retracted the motor clockwise all the way as instructed, opened the caliper to the minimum required to fit back on the bracket. When we restarted the car we turned the parking brake on and off a few times and all was fine with no error codes. One tip: be careful with the plastic cover on the motor. The torx screw split the plastic and it needed to be super glued back together!
Fantastic! Thanks for the report! Glad it worked for you!
Hello, firstly thanks for the video. Secondly, I did the same but when I have to put back the motor, I tried drawing it together by tightening the screws little by little because It doesnt want to be put back together, cant seem to get it past the o-ring and the plastic snapped, I superglued it together but still cant force it back together. Any tips?
This video was a real lifesaver as I had not read about the need for the VAGcom. Of note is that a T45 torx bit works very well to move the parking brake.
Watched this last night..
Started working on my brakes this morning.
Checked the video again inbetween the job.
You sir, saved me hundreds of dollars.
Huge huge thanks!!!
After a failed first attempt without your tip on the parking brake I'm ready for another attempt at my son's rear brakes this weekend. Thanks for the video.
wish my dad paid for my car :(
It was my sons birthday so I got him the brake pads and put them on with my neighbor. I didn't buy him the car, just the pads. ;-)
Thanks for the great video. Taking time to explain some of the other steps like opening the fluid master cylinder and drawing a bit off was spot on. For those calliper brackets at the back, if you want to remove them to swap out the rotors, then I think they are also a T40 torx fitting. So if you somehow get a look at the back face of the large bolt, you will see that you can also use the torx on them. Otherwise, excellent demo of getting around the VAGcom problem. Just watch out for the rubber piston gaiters when you push them back. You had them on the edge of the rotor, and if you cut them they are a nightmare to replace.
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Man, you're a LIFE SAVER! Just did my 2010 A6 and you sir, are the man!
It's was late night and I thought I was screwed and then I found your video that saved my ass, thank you for making this video.!!!
"So I'm using a 27, if you got a problem with that, I don't care" LOL! Shut down the haters! I like your style.
ITS 27 torx or 30 ???
Until you use it to remove the flathead screw holding the disc and strip the head.
@@audia4addict950
30 is correct. 27 is a good way to strip the head
Thanks for this great video. Had no problems changing the brakes!
Thanks for the tips! Worked great on my 2014 A-6 One comment- You will need a thin walled 15mm end wrench in addition to the 13mm socket to get the 2 bolts that hold the caliper out. My normal set would not fit - too fat! Thanks
.
Thank you very much for your video!! we have a lot of broken calipers to replace!! brought a lot of work to my shop!!
What are you watching youtube videos for? Get back to work!
@@CarsandCoding my customer just showed me your video and how he broke both calipers because he didn’t have the vag com. $1600!! Cha Ching!!!
Great video and helped me make sense of the setup. However I would like to stress as I'm not sure if this was made clear. The electronic handbrake has to be left off before you begin changing the pads. I changed both of mine with the brake on (yes it can be done) and setting the piston to released position by turning it clockwise as said in this video threw a handbrake code at the end when I started car. After a lot of head scratching I set both piston to contact position by turning counterclockwise thumb tight after reassembled onto the disc. So piston pushed gently onto rotor.. After this all was good. Hope this comment helps.
Hello changed the rear pads and rotors on my S5, disengaged the electric parking break before I started on it. Turned the e motor counterclockwise abs reassembled it. After I turned on the car I got a parking break malfunction light. Should I clear the codes or what should I do?
@@alberttnt2 hi. I have only just seen your comment. You don't need to clear the code. It's probably because you turned the ebrake motor unit the wrong way before reassembly. It's been a while since I did mine so I can't remember exactly but it's nit broken. You just need to set the motor in the correct position. Follow the video exactly but make sure the ebrake is off before you start is all I remember. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the tips - planing to work on my 2011 S4 tomorrow .
I'm going to change brakes pads and rotors (front and rear) on my Audi A5 2000 Tfsi 132 Kw MY2009, thank you very much for sharing a simple way to avoid VCDS !!!
Awesome video. Thought of doing some research before my first attempt. I didn't even think about the EPB! Good stuff, very clear and well filmed.
Glad you liked it! Best of luck to you!
Great video for the electric brake release. Thanks
Thank you very much Sir.Watching your video i was able to change my rear brake pads on my Audi without VAG-COM
Great video. That's a pretty cool way of releasing the rears. I was looking for a 12v battery to do the same but will attempt your method.
WOW!!!!! u da man. was watching other youtubes about using a vcds and how if you dont follow directions precisely you damage the epb module, $$$$$$
this is a whole lot simpler
Is it the same on a 2013 all road quattro??? Had you been a teacher in my school I would be sooo much smarter now. Great vid, great breakdown on each step. Thank you so much. 🍀🇮🇪✌️
It is the same
2013 A3, The bolts holding the electric motor are 5mm hex, not star. Tried the 40 Torx and it seemed to just be spinning inside. Tried the 45 Torx and it wouldn't turn. I actually don't think I was doing anything to the parking break piston position. Reassembled and then used a tool I had to turn the brake from outside. Lisle Disc Brake Tool. I am fairly certain that is all you need, don't have to open the electric motor. You turn with that tool first and then you can use a clamp to push in.
Make sure your wife doesn't confuse that brake fluid in the Tupperware for cooking oil next time she makes chorizo tacos!
Good Video ...Thanks for The Information ....
Great video. At the end when you you press the brake a few times and engage the hand brake a couple times. Should the brake fluid reservoir cap be on or off?
Do you just pull the button to close the e brake when done?
Great video thanks you
Great video. Those important sentences at the end, I can't read them because the "suggested video links" are covering the text. Can you please put that text here so it can be read. Thanks
I had not realized that! I have moved the suggested video links further to the end now. Thanks!!!
Like the way you did on box of pb better than 12v battery...Thank you.
Awesome job it worked on my 2010 A5 2.0. Thank you sir.
Oh my god your the best one I've seen so far. Thank you very much for taking the time out with this video thank your the best also you had a great sense of humour with this video I laugh so much I had to rewind a few times to make sure am doing the right thing, again thank you
Antonio, thanks for watching! I have fun making the videos. May all your projects go well!
You can use a battery volt to move the motor prong in or out - not my idea but worked for me
oh and its not easy - especially if you first try to use the t27 instead on the rec. t30...
One of the best videos 👍 Thank you
Great helpful video but you can put in service mode so the motor can retract on it's own.
That is true if you have rosstech vcds or obd11.
Great video man,I really do appreciate it...thank you so much...
Took me 20 minutes to find my cable, 10 minutes to get the driver to work. Then found out the car wasn't supported. This was much easier.
Do you retighten the torx piece inside the motor?
No need. When you apply the ebrake it tightens it.
good job
Good video helped a lot
Thank you so much
You really help me a lot with this video
Brilliant. Thanks.
questa e' la migliore procedura senza vag!
Awesome. I'm still not sure about getting an AUDI simply because of how hard they are to work on (or so I hear). Nice to know there's a way around it for the brakes though!
Having owned this A4 for 10 years I dont think they are hard to work on anymore. Certainly harder than cars from the carburetor era, but at least documentation is very good once you get access to it. It also helps that these cars are not rare, so there is plenty of parts available. I would never attempt to own a A8 for example.
Great video! After you retract the brake release and get the pads on do you then turn back the brake release or does it automatically do it?
No need to manually turn it back. Once completed with brake job, press the pedal couple times and then engage/disengage the electronic parking brake two times and everything is good. I will have an updated video coming out this week (Jan 5th 2023) where I do the whole process again but this time I removed the rotors as well.
Is the same with the Volvo Volvo V60 I was thinking about replacing myself but I never did before.
Thanks
Hello
I see you loosened the piston manually with an okay torx but did you tighten the piston after mounting the pads or not?
More explanation please 🙏
thanks a lot
I did not tighten the piston. I put it all back together and then hit the parking brake on and off when the car was together. I got a brake warning light but it went away after driving a few meters.
Thanks your video was cool , I like the way you do your video before I also use 12v to do but now I will used your method thanks
Me too!
Das ist super, Danke
The EPB Assembly on this car looks identical to the one on my 2014 RLX hybrid sh-awd made by TWR.
Those factory fitted rear brake pads, do they have a low brake pad warning mechanism, either electronic or mechanical. Normally the inner pad is fitted with a small metal strip that contacts the brake disk/rotor and makes a weird noise to indicate that the pad is low and needs replacing?
Only the front has one
Job done here, tanks for the video.
Before i started, i disconnekted the batteri too, after i releised the handbrake on the switch inside the car.
After the job, i pump the brake fluid pressure up whith the brakepedal before i connected the batteri again. I do not know if it was nessesery, but i did it any way. I change front and rear pads at the same day.
Just so I’m clear because I’m new to electronic parking brakes and not sure if you mentioned it, the brake was engaged BEFORE you retracted it?
No. Parking brake is off. You still have to retract it. It has to be spun all the way back into the caliper, which can only be done with vcds or obdeleven or the way I did it manually.
Thank you 🌹
Just did my 2015 Audi a8 rear brakes you need a ( T30 is to remove the 2 tiny screws for the brake motor) &( T47 is used to turn clockwise motor back)
Do i have to Wind the Motor back Counter Clock wise after i install the Brakes or no need to do that? Anyone answer is much appreciated.. Thank you
@@thomasreems7856 yes
Thank you Devell.. Just so im Clear i turn it Clockwise to Release and then Counterclockwise when im Finished?
@@thomasreems7856 yes that's it.
Once you get started it easy brah.
Thanks again Bud..
Assuming the EPB was not 'on' while you were doing this work-around, correct? Maybe it doesn't matter either way? Will be doing mine soon so just curious.
Correct, EPB was not on. Need to have it off.
skip to around 7 min for the reason you clicked on this video. also a pro tip: don't top your brake fluid off unless you have fresh pads, and you wont have to remove any.
Some people dont understand that the brakes are a closed system so the more the pads get worn the lower the fluid will get so not sure why anyone would add more brake fluid,guess it would be easy for a person with not much experience to make that mistake,i remember the time i did when i was in my teens "whats all that oil doing on the floor??? lol
Just get a square 9v battery and put the wires over the motor terminals too back up the motor. Takes about 5 seconds.
Great idea to remove the parking brake motor to retract the parking brake. You should NEVER put the C clamp on the motor as you can damage it. You can buy a piston retractor on Amazon for $20 and do it properly. You should also replace the brake pad clips. Finally the bolts that the caliper slides on should be lubricated with brake lube so it moves properly.
Really amazing video with surprisingly good lighting and video. I'm assuming a brake caliper tool that rotates the piston from the other side (without having to take the back cover off) does the same thing? Also, what the heck is the Vagcom thing good for if you can do it this way? Thanks again!
Vagcom is good for a lot of things like troubleshooting fuel injectors, timing chain, changing settings. But doing the rear brakes like this is the easiest way in my opionion.
If I had a Vagcom or any other electrical tool that would back off the electronic parking brake that would make things quicker & easier (no need to take apart the brake motor housing etc). But I personally don't have any electronic tool that does this so I performed the change out this way. Zero issues & was stoked to have a work-around option like it.
@@loseerich493 did it threw a brake code?
@@driftinxer Nope, I didn't have any problems
@@loseerich493 when you rotate it clockwise you open the electronic parking brake… after pushing the piston back do you have to rotate anticlockwise again to original position before putting everything back together?
* The recommended play back speed for this video is 1.75 x .
Is there a electric brake on both sides ?
Yes the electric motors are on both sides in the rear.
Thanks about to do them today. Waiting on auto parts store to open
@@Will.Rondo9 Good luck sir! You got this!
good video...
you can use 12v battery to release breaks motor and don´t make change so dificult ;-)
I was wondering if you turn it clockwise on both sides of the electric brake? Or is the passenger side, counterclockwise?
You'll find out real quick when you turn it. Either it moves in or moves out.
@@CarsandCoding Oh okay thank you. Makes sense
@@CarsandCoding Do you know the torque spec when you put the electric brake bolts back?
@@monkeyking365 sorry, no. They are tiny bolts, just snug em
Do i have to Wind the Motor back Counter Clock wise after i install the Brakes or no need to do that? Anyone answer is much appreciated.. Thank you
I did not wind it back. When you engage/disengage the electronic parking brake when it is back together it will adjust itself.
So no need to wind it back after you install the brake pads?
@@juanvicente8503 No. I didn't and had no problems. Audi A4 2013 QUATTRO never got any codes or anything. I just engaged the electric brake and disengaged it 4-5 times to be on safe side and obviously pumped the brake pedal a good 10 times before starting it up and taking for test drive. All was well. No need to give yourself more headache of winding it counterclockwise for no reason. Tried and tested. Trust me!
Im no mechanic. But i was wondering could this job have been made easier if the handbrake was left off before you started?? .
The parking brake is off when you start. It just isn't retracted all the way. If you started with parking brake on, you would not be able to remove the caliper at all.
Is the electronic brake on ?
No keep it off when you do this.
Just did this but didn’t remove any brake fluid and now the brakes are extremely spongey. Any chance you need to unscrew that parking brake bolt after caliper is back on?
Did you engage and disengage the e brake after? After pumping the brakes a few times it should firm up. If not, then you might have somehow got air in the lines, but I don't know how. Spongy brakes is not expected.
somehow got air in them. bled the brakes twice and all was good@@CarsandCoding
So I followed all the steps to the tee with my 2014 Audi S4. Changed all 4 rotors and brake pads. Now the ebrake is throwing a malfunction code but the ebrake engages and works. I can hear it engage. But the ebrake button light blinks and it shows a faulty code on the dash. Any advice?
Just drive it, should go off on its own. Otherwise you can clear the code.
cuda2000 What I did different from this video is: after screwing that middle torx screw all the way until it stopped I put on new pads and to fit them flush to my new rotors I screwed that middle screw in the other direction so that the piston would push the new pads flush to the rotors and then I put the plastic housing back on the electric unit and assembled it back. Everything works fine and the ebrake engages but throws a faulty code. Was this my mistake?
Did the error code clear? Contemplating this in the exact car. B8 S4.
Mark Sperl it wasn’t even the code. It was a slight oversight on my part. Once I fixed the issue the code cleared. Everything should work fine if you followed every step in the video.
@@VodkaBlast77 so just leave it all the way back and there will be no code?
Im going to replace the rear pads on my A5 coupe, do I Need to disconnect the battery?
No you don't need to disconnect battery.
Dear friends, I should release or active EPB before attempting pads change?
Release
@@CarsandCoding thank you so much. but it is strange system.... I must release EPB and then do some processes to retract piston!!!! Why we can not retract piston just by releasing EPB??
afshin yousefzamani because when you release the EPB it only backs a little bit to avoid the piston from getting in contact with the pads. It will not rewind the whole way thus you have to rewind it the rest of the way to be able to push in the piston and make room for new pads/rotors.
I got parking brake warning light after replacing pads this way. Parking brake works fine, just stupid light is on and annoying message
That can happen. It may turn off after driving or you may need to clear the code.
Did you disconnect the battery before doing the manual retraction?
Originals Wolfsburg no I did not disconnect the battery
cuda2000 thank u. I’ll give this a try on my Tiguan. Seems like both cars have same calipers
@@originalswolfsburg9889 you're right, they both have the same braking system
Would this work on a 2015-2015 A5?
Yes they are all basically the same
@@CarsandCoding Thank you very much for the quick response! Great video!
Please use a T30 and not a T27...you will have a lot more issues if you strip the bolt. Same goes for the screw/bolt to retract the parking brake, it uses a size 8 triple square socket. Yes a 40 torx will work, but we don’t anyone stripping any bolts.
That is also a 30 torx for the bolt to remove the rotors if you need to replace them.
I tightened the back of the caliber clockwise then put the cap back on it but when I torqued it back on I heard an air compression noise and the back of it cracked open a little bit..... The only thing I did it do was take some brake fluid out.... do I have to replace this part or should I be fine? Someone help pls
What cracked? The plastic cap? I would put it all back together and see what happens. But I'm not giving advice, I'm just a youtuber.
Yeah the electric parking brake motor .... & okay thanks
everyone should have a VCDS if they own an Audi IMO
I have two. Both incompatible with this model. :(
@@robertgreenfield9051 i switched to obdeleven i like it more
Wait so why did you take some of the brake fluid out?
I took some brake fluid out so that when I pushed the calipers in all the way it did not overflow. Just being cautious and replacing with new fluid is always good!
@@CarsandCoding the other way is to open the bleeder valve.....attach a hose with the other end in a jar
@@arkrainflood that is probably a better way to do it, as it doesn’t force old fluid back up the lines. Main thing is just to avoid brake fluid getting on paint.
How many sensors do I need for front and back
There is only one wear sensor, and that is on the drivers side front brake caliper. You only need to replace it if it was damaged due to wearing the pads too thin or it broke when you change the front pads. It is low cost, but needed otherwise you will get a warning light.
@@CarsandCoding Awesome, first timer with my Audi A4 Quattro B8 that I change her breaks, ended up buying a new sensor, thanks for the info brotha.
you forgot to check and lube the sliders , main reason pads wear ..... good tip tho
I did lube them up, I must have missed getting it on video. Yes, lube the sliders and pins!
Or you can just buy a Carista OBD2 for $19.99 and release it with an app....
Drew McMullian does it really work that way?
I did the rear brakes on my B8 recently and found this electrical hack for retracting the electronic park brake easier than removing motor. ruclips.net/video/J-q68JIUils/видео.html Hope it helps for next time!
Do not use a 27 it will strip the bolt this guy is a fool.
he mentioned that he was not a mechanic, do go around calling people names, be nice.
He is not a fool. He clearly stated that he had a 27 to use.
Be nice!!!
Thank you for helpful video.
Great video thx