By far the MOST explanatory, to the point, and informative video on this subject I've EVER watch. Thank youvery much. You have a new subscriber here. 👍👍👍
I am planning a wood fired pottery build and have learned a lot on those materials. They are all made of alumina which is cheaply made with cheap Chinese power. The price depends on how many people get it before you. For Kaowool, you need to buy a 25 foot roll of 1 inch or whatever length it takes for other thicknesses for a good deal. This is way too much material for a forge. Soft fire brick are affordable by the palette. Also look for broken sales as industrial uses do not allow them to be damaged and they are easy to break. My recommendation would be a casting mix with water glass/sand and perlite. When done correctly, it forms a very solid casting that reflects heat very well. The hard brick is good to store heat. Also, heat exchangers to pre heat some of the incoming air will make anything work. I just learned a lot about high temp applications, so may be missing something. Good video!
Respectfully Sir@@RickRabjohn I was informed concrete explodes at a high heat temperature such as over 590 degrees Fahrenheit, there's so many fears / risk I don't want to take & hope to find guidance for in making my firebrick forge, I need to know if it's safe to use & what the cheapest route / best / safest brick to use for building a forge is, is there any suggestions for this, I plan on using a very high heat up to over 3000 degrees Fahrenheit & I don't know if it's safe ! I'm young & learning alot, thank you for your video & information, I wonder what name Lowes's would call the heavy hard brick your using for a furnace / forge Sir ? In advance thank you Sincerely, & I don't know if this means anything to you, but I saw a acronyms Booyah, would NJROTC JROTC CSMC USMC Hoorah Semper Fi~ mean anything to you Sir ? 4 years & thank you for your services / leading the way Sir" Sincerely"! Respectfully, / Sincerely. Signed : This young humble Florida boy / soul . Paul~
Never knew the the fibers needed to be coated. You are the first one to mention it. I need around 1900 for clay kiln. I seen one guy use plaster mixed with sand. I looking at the 2 inch fiber. I thought you were going to say the fiber was the least efficient. Cancer hmm Made a patio once with fire brick. Long time ago.
Good video but just FYI, the small brick is not concrete if it's a fire brick. Firebrick is composed of silica and alumina. Otherwise great information!
Question, your smart ! I'm young & becoming a blacksmith, I want to build a brick forge, I'm in Florida, is there any suggestions for not exploding bricks, that will withstand up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit that I can use for my safety reasons that is near me, like at least in America / maybe close to Florida or online ? A lump charcoal forge I'm making I have been looking for months now..... Any advise / opinions / thoughts / suggestions will help me greatly & thank you sincerely in advance ! Sincerely, Paul~
you probably dont care but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Arturo Khari thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Have to say, I was looking for a fire brick cutting video but, wound up watching your whole video. GREAT JOB on explaining these differences and excellent video. Yep, I like the skulls also!!
I'm working on building my first forge and opt into the firebrick method. Stuff around here cost a lot more money so those cheep fire bricks are close to 7$ a piece. I did find that cutting them was easiest with a jigsaw and a worn out wood blade. I used a old piece of angle iron and a couple of wood clamps to get a nice straight cut. What I am very curious about is if you have used the refractory cement at all? I used some to morter the bricks into place and close off any gaps in between the bricks but I was also thinking about doing a good half inch layer of it on the inside of the forge to act as extra protection and to decrease the amount of area I need to heat. Do you think that would be a good idea or should I just leave the fire bricks showing? I have built a forced air propane burner but have no idea that actual temp it gets to.
@@RickRabjohn update. I lit my forge for the first time last night. The refractory cement bubbled a little with some very minor cracking but held up better than just the straight fire brick did. I did add an extra piece of firebrick with a thin coat of refractory cement on top to place on the floor and take the brunt of any wear from slag or the burner. All and all once the forge was up to temp for a good hour I threw a peice of 3/4" round bar in there and it took about 5 to 10 min before it was glowing
Finally a properly decorated workshop! Flag, skull and pictures of what not to wear when working in the shop (methink they must be OSHA safety posters).
About efficiency, if you were to rub the forge for realøy long sessions, wouldnt something that apsorbs heat be better? If you insulate a second layer which reflects heat. As an example, you are forging something, you pull it out of forge to shape it, and turn down the propane while shaping. I imagine that the apsorbing stones will keep the forge hot for longer. I dont know tho, im still a beginner
personal opinion alert. 1) firebrick (the yellowish compact brick) is a heat battery it absorbs heat and releases it slowly back, it is used mainly for flooring to help avoid intense spikes and drops in heats (ovens and such) they create a somewhat constant heat surface. Use it for the spot where your burner blows the flames for a long lasting wall and for the spot where you place your crucible for a somewhat uniform heating up. 2) fire insulating brisk (the white brick) those are insulators they provide less heat exchange with the environment and minimize the heat losses they do not reflect heat back they just do not propagate that heat to the surrounding area that well. 3) The ceramic blanket plays much the same role with the insulating bricks with grater success. Here is my thoughts on a forge build. Yellow bricks in the inside with white brick (or ceramic blanket) on the outside to help with the insulation. For coating I would use some sort of heat resistant concrete (plaster of paris?) to enclose the blanket (or the white bricks) and part of the yellow bricks. I expect it to produce the best results in terms of life expectancy and maximum heat. Keep in mind those are only opinions. I never tried them so they are unfunded opinions as well. Thank you for the explanation it was very much appreciated.
Good summary / comments - I like your ideal forge build - the other option would be the soft white brick on the sides and top and the hard brick on the bottom. Tons of options for sure. Thanks Booyah!
Your thoughts on the yellow bricks have changed my mind on what I am going to do. I need a forge that will be running for possibly 8 hours a day. Thus a "heat battery" is a good idea to help prevent heat loss between pours.
Rick/Jo - Since the fire brick can take a lot of heat beating - It can be used as the inner most to face the fire - and to protect the heat from losing - a normal wool insulation batt can be used to wrap the fire brick ? it is a lot cheaper than the ceramic blanket - I am just wondering if that is that effective ? what are your thoughts?
Done a bunch of this - save yourself some time and headaches and do it right the first time with 2" of ceramic fiber insulation, like Kaowool, Superwool, etc., rigidized and coated on the inside. Best way with Kaowool is to apply a 1" layer, then rigidizer first -- let it dry -- that hardens up the ceramic fiber fabric, then another 1" layer of the wool, rigidize that (make sure to mist spray wet with water before applying the rigidizer or it won't work! -- Let the rigidizer harden/dry, then coat it with satanite or other high-temp cement, then final coat it with an IR reflector thin layer, like ITC-100. These are FAR more efficient walls for acheiving high temps than any kind of bricks. If you're just firing pottery, brick kilns are fine. If you're heating metal to welding temps, spend the money and do it right -- it'll last longer than three or four brick forges, heat quicker, hotter, and be lighter-weight. Gas forges heat up fast and cool down fast and that repeated extreme thermal cycling degrades, cracks and crumbles fire bricks to bits in short order. Fire bricks are better for kilns and ovens where they heat up slower, to lower temps, stay hot longer and cool down slowly.
I don't disagree with what your saying, and thanks for outlining the ideal set-up. That is the best, but like I indicated, I am staying away from kaowool given my past experience with cancer. So, that means less effeciency and dealing with cracked bricks, but so be it. Maybe I'm being overly cautions but better safe than sorry. At leastfor me. Thanks again.
Would it be better to put a fire brick in the bottom in terms of durability and replaceability? Over time I feel like the bottom might degrade and being able to replace it would be helpful.
I have a question if you don’t mind. I am building a propane and waist oil furnace out of an old stainless steel shop vacuum cleaner and got enough ceramic blanket for 2” around on the inside and got the two 50 pound bags of refectory to go on over that what thickness should i go for with the refectory ?
@@tonypike5785 - totally depends on what kind of refractory you got in those 50 lb bags. If it’s KastOLite, it can be as thin as 1/2”, or you can ‘cast’ it a fair bit thicker - like 1” to 2” thick. Either way, you should DEFINITELY rigidize your ceramic blanket insulation first. You want a hard surface for the castable refractory to set on. Put in the first 1 inch layer of ceramic fiber blanket, let it air dry in a warm place, flame cure it with a low flame for a few minutes, at least twice with a cooling. In between. Then, add your second layer, rigidizer, air dry, flame cure, then you will see it is hard and ready to apply the castable on top of it. Make sure to ‘butter’ before rigidizing - spritz water lightly onto the layers before applying the rigidizer. Don’t skip the rigidizing steps! If it’s some other type of castable refractory, just follow the instructions on it for application and curing, but pretty much any of them are going to need to go onto an already-rigidized blanket. Don’t put any castable on soft blanket - it’ll crack and fail.
I’m building a ribbon burner forge and I’m going with soft fire bricks and a layer of hard fire brick on top of the soft fire bricks for the floor. The walls and roof are also soft fire brick. Coated in itc 100. I’m doing this so flux won’t obliterate the floor and it’s easily replaceable. The soft fire brick will insulate well enough and the two main reason is it’s much more durable and safe. I’d rather not deal with the ceramic wool danger.
Respectfully, I was told concrete explodes if I'm building a lump charcoal forge, Im young & learning still. Kay-oh-woll ? Thank you for this video Sir ! G-28 soft brick IFB insulating fire brick straights or better, silica firebrick 3000 degrees Fahrenheit.
Very good information, would you feel comfortable using the insulated brick for the inside of a pizza oven with the brick exposed? Not the floor of the oven just the walls and top.
I have no idea how much it cost per square inch. I bought a roll of kaol wool 1” x24”x25’ for $96. The coating I bought was $25 for a half gallon. So for $121 or so bucks. I have made 2 propane forges. 1 is 12”x18” and the other is 16”x36” 2 burner. As well as a foundry. I still have plenty left for anything else I want to make.
Hi, very informative video. I have a made a gas forge using the hard cheap firebriks, and i have added insulation in the form of vermaculite mixed with a bit of cement, to make it stay in chape . That way i have the hard durable firebriks inside the forge and it is insulatet to keep the heat in.
Hi, it works allright, but i can not get up to welding temperature, maybe because i only have one burner, i have read on Anvilfire.com that one burner can heat 240 cu inch room, i have 290 cu inch room in my forge, so that might be the reason
I experimented with my forge by 1) adding another layer of brick to reduce the cubic inches and 2) used insulating soft firebricks to reflect the heat - that said, I haven't been able to reach forge welding temps either. I think I would need to either use the Kaowool or add a third burner. That said, I decided to just use my coal forge for forge welding and my propane forge for everything else.
Rick, thanks for the video. I didn't realize the health hazards of Kaowool. I am scratching parts together to build a 5 gallon propane forge for making knives. Steve Mud Slough Knives USA
Hi , I watched your video, good info since I do have all 3. I went with the blanket , coated it the used refactor cement I got at a hardware store. Coated it twice and let dry. Upon curing the cement bubbled. Why??? I scraped the bubbles off and Re coated it. I have to wait 24 hours to see if the third coat fixed my problem. Any information on why it bubbled would be very helpful. Thanks
Happens to me too - likely entrapped moisture in the refractory material - I just rough up the surface (pop bubbles) after the first coat and recoat. Someone suggested pre-drying your bricks or blanket materials in the oven to limit the bubbles.
@@RickRabjohn hi there , I took your advice and popped the bubbled areas then Re coated the area. All is good and I’m now trying to make some dragon head key chain out of rebar. Thanks again and hammer on!!
I really like your video, thanks for doing it. I have used castable referecatory before but it cracks way too easy. By the way I sure like your calender.
Could I coat the hard fire brick (which came with my propane forge as a base on top of the kaowool) with Satanaite refractory cement? Would this reduce the heat it absorbs? I also want to use some bricks as doors. Same question for these. Thanks.
You can - I coated my entire inside of my gas forge fire bricks both the hard brick on bottom and soft bricks on side and top with Satanite - helped a lot in retaining heat
Thanks for the reply. I've done this now. 1 kg just about covered the lot. I'm assuming that the coating can be thin, as it is reflective. I also hardened the kaowool first. I've bought some insulating firebricks to act as a makeshift door too. Ready to fire up as soon as I finish my anvil base (joining some logs together with studding).
Hello @Rich Rabjohn. I was building some propane forges for sale and it was build with hard fire brick. How long does brick last? Small crack (bearly seen by a eye) are not a problem? Does these type of brick get more crack overtime? I'm using firebrick for inside forge insulation, and out the outside perlite+cement (for retaining the heat) in a barrel shape tanks (propane tank, water tank etc.)
The hard brick I bought from Lowes about 18 months ago has cracked in some areas of the forge, but are cheap enough to replace. The soft brick has not cracked. Good luck with your build.
Hi Rick.....if you talk about efficiency. ..does the size matter..? I'm a knife maker and my forge is 4 x 6 x 18 inches and build it with hard fire bricks ( in progress ) and looking at installing two Frosty T burners. I would like to achieve 1300 Celsius. Am I on the right track....🐾 Greetings
In terms of size, I assume you mean thickness of the fire brick. I have tried using single 1.25 inches and then double 2.5 inches combined thickness of hard bricks which made little difference. I also tried 2.5 inch thick soft brick on the sides with hard brick on the top and bottom...that made a nice difference. So, if you want efficiency, use the soft brick and as thick as practical.. cheers
Hi Thanks for the great vid it was helpful. I have a Question for you should I use rigidizer if I’m using kast-olite? With on ceramic brick and ceramic fiber ?
I recently finished building a home foundry furnace and used the white brick coated with a similar refractory cement as kast-olite and that worked well. I also recently relined my propane forge with white brick and applied two coats of Satanite to coat/cement - the satanite worked really well. The trick I found was to dry the white brick in oven initially and then applying thin coats - letting them dry thoroughly before applying another coat. Hope that helps and good luck with your build.
Love the video, just an add though….firebricks are not made of concrete, they’re made from refractory mortar. Concrete is a huge no no in forges (it’ll explode). Just in case anyone heard concrete and figured they’d get some and make a forge out of concrete
Never heard anyone using plaster of paris - refractory cement, HT-100, satanite would be my first choices. Hope that helps and good luck with your build.
Hey Hey Pete - no worries and appreciate you sharing the other alternative which I was not aware of. Heck that's why I started this channel - to share and exchange information amongst those with the same passions. The high grade bricks sound terrific but as you say expensive. For now, I'll stick with my current set-up but appreciate you reaching out.
Quick question if i made a forge with fire bricks on the bottom coated with satanite to reflect the temp with the fire blanket also coated with satanite and maybe the price are better or because it is bulk priced for 21 bucks for refactory cement or is that the wrong stuff
Bryan, I hear Satanite is good for coating wool blankets or the soft white bricks within a forge or foundry furnace - not sure what the costs are. I just see a lot of guys using it. Also, I just built a foundry furnace and used Imperial Refractory cement from True Value to coat all the white soft bricks - that worked well and was inexpensive. Good luck with your build!
Question choosing a tank to make a forge is aluminum or stainless steel good idea or bad or do I have to add extra steps or extra insulation? I saw a 30 gallon propane tank for 30 and wanted to make sure not going to smoke check me
Thanks Bryan - Aluminum has a melting point of 1220 F yet you need to run the forge high enough to reach forging temp for mild steel which is approx. 1500 to 1800 F. It's also expensive. So, I would use mild steel given it has a melting temp of 2500 F. Stainless could work but it's also expensive. Stay safe if re-purpusing a propane tank - I hear it's dangerous...
have you considered HT stainless steel sheet, its a grade 310 and melts above about 1700 deg C, a good heat reflector & abrasion prevention lining to protect Kaowool. Also, ceramic fibre board (very dense, compressed Kaowool) ?
Hello. Could you please help me with a question? Recently purchased a devil forge with the ceramic wool lining. I used Refactory Cement to seal the wool lining. On my first fire up the cement began to bubble. I allowed the cement to cure for 5 days prior to first fire. Do you have any suggestions as to why this may be happening?
It happened to me a few times as well when coating insulating fire bricks (i.e., the soft white bricks). Underlying moisture is the issue. When this happens, I fire up the foundry/forge to drive off all the moisture (get it bone dry) - then let it cool down - brush and vacuum out any loose refractory that came off and then re-coat. Hope that helps Trace, and good luck with your new forge.
Quick question for you, what type of hardener should i use for the kao wool? Ive seen blue and clear but no product names have been stated and ive seen a person use refractory mortar. Im building a propane forge and would like to glean as much knowledge as i can from as many perspectives as i can.
Aaron, while I don't have any personal experience with Kaowool coatings, I have seen guys use either Satanite Refractory Mortar or HT-100 coating for sealing the Inswool/Kaowool fibers in their forges. Hope that helps and good luck with your build!
Very Informative! Great video, as it helped me alot. One question is that I made the metal frame of my forge a-little too small and there is really only room for 1 inch of material of my choice. For the same reasons, I have chosen not to use ceramic wool. Could I cut the ceramic brick down the middle and use it as 2 bricks( one inch thick each) and still be more efficient than the concrete bricks? Or should I just use the thinner concrete bricks? im not too concerned about efficiency as This is not something I will not do very often but I would like it the forge to last for awhile with out much maintenance.
Thank you. I would use the hard concrete bricks on the bottom and the softer ceramic refractory bricks cut 1" thick for the sides and top. good luck with your forging; booyah!
ok thanks for rely. im in the uk and dont think we can get satanite here. the reason i asked about plaster of paris is because i have a small furnace i bought from the U.S. ans the insulation in it is pure white but solid , like solid kaowool, but if it was kaowool soaked in satanite to make it hard , it would not be white would it ?
Sounds like you have what's called Ceramic Fiberboard in the small furnace which is white. I know it's used in furnaces, Loz Harrop whose channel is called "ppotty1" uses it in his Rocket Stoves, and Glen from the channel "Glen GS Tongs" uses it in his propane forge. Given Loz is from the UK, he might have an idea where you could get some local. It's often hard to find. Hope that helps and good luck with your forge
Satanite and other coatings will be blueish when applied, then dry lighter and "burn in" almost white, so yes -- might be that. Good stuff. Best way with Kaowool is to apply a rigidizer first -- let it dry -- that hardens up the ceramic fiber fabric, then coat it with satanite or other high-temp cement, then final coat it with an IR reflector thin layer, like ITC-100. These are FAR more efficient walls for acheiving high temps than any kind of bricks. Gas forges heat up fast and cool down fast and that repeated extreme thermal cycling degrades, cracks and crumbles fire bricks to bits in short order. Fire bricks are better for kilns and ovens where they heat up slower, to lower temps, stay hot longer and cool down slowly.
Im looking to start forging, I want to build my forge but cant do coal due to local laws. I would not be planning on upgrading my forge for years, im on a low enough budget aswell. I dont need welding temps, would the ceramic bricks be my best option (gas is expensive so efficiency is important)
Be careful you might get addicted like the rest of us :-)) I would agree with you on lining the entire inside with the soft ceramic brick - If you plan to do forge welding with Borax flux - I would use the cheaper hard brick for just the bottom. Thanks for checking out my video and good luck with your build.
You don't need a grinder to cut fire bricks. A hack saw works or even (like I did) use an old hand saw. It will dull the teeth on the blade (who cares, I use it just to cut firebrick anyway) but it works very well.
Hey great video.are your hard fire bricks holding up for you?I'm ordering fire bricks and was wondering if the Lowe's brand worked fine longterm. Thanks
Rick Rabjohn the subtitles mention "high temperature for Jews and kilns." I know you said forges instead of "for jews" but I'm hard of hearing so I rely on subtitles a bit.
nope - insulating a gas forge is critical to retaining heat - it also helps protect the outer support steel - keep in mind - my forge can heat steel at temperatures between 1800 - 2000 + degrees F
🎟concrete can literally explode if damp at all, then exposed to fierce heat. Even rock can do this , ask any camper whos put wet rocks around a firepit.
You can easily make the $6.00 insulation brick, here's the recipe. 60% Plaster of Paris or Joint Compound to 40% clean sand add hot water to activate and mix well. Pour into molds & let cure for 3 day's. This same recipe is used to mix furnace cement or fireplace mortar. Don't waste your $$ on shipping.
Wrong, not always and your left and my left don't matter. It's the flag's left that matters. If the flag is looking out the window, which it is in this case, the Union is correct. On the flag's right. The U.S. Flag code spells all this out.
Please read this post for safety on ceramic wool. Always wear a respirator around it, treat it like you would Asbestos. www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53239-ceramic-wool-insulation-safety-alert/
Do you have any idea how much more gas your using ?! That's like saying well I'm going to travel the us in a camper for the rest of my days , this motorhome that gets 5 miles to the gallon is ten dollars cheaper than that one that gets 20 miles to the gallon !!!! 🤤🤤🤤
I was a union insulator for Alabama Power for years and years we called that suruwal and the white block the one that you can cut with us all a hand saw Caleb that's what we called that and you can go down to any insulation corporation that sells insulation and buy the stuff you can buy a whole roll of that sir wall 25 foot by 24 in for less than a hundred bucks that's enough to make 25 foot by 24 in 1 inch thick for less than a hundred bucks that's enough to a bunch a bunch
By far the MOST explanatory, to the point, and informative video on this subject I've EVER watch.
Thank youvery much.
You have a new subscriber here. 👍👍👍
I am planning a wood fired pottery build and have learned a lot on those materials. They are all made of alumina which is cheaply made with cheap Chinese power. The price depends on how many people get it before you. For Kaowool, you need to buy a 25 foot roll of 1 inch or whatever length it takes for other thicknesses for a good deal. This is way too much material for a forge. Soft fire brick are affordable by the palette. Also look for broken sales as industrial uses do not allow them to be damaged and they are easy to break. My recommendation would be a casting mix with water glass/sand and perlite. When done correctly, it forms a very solid casting that reflects heat very well. The hard brick is good to store heat. Also, heat exchangers to pre heat some of the incoming air will make anything work. I just learned a lot about high temp applications, so may be missing something. Good video!
Finally some real good information about brick for my first forge. Thanks
You bet!
This one helped me a whole bunch being new to the craft.
Definitely subscribed
Thanks Joe
Excellent comparison. Concise, precise. Would have loved to see the forge. I am sure you have it in other videos.
Thanks Buddy, you are the only person that I have seen break things down in a logical and realistic way. Good luck in the molten realm.
Thank you - appreciate that Jonsey; Booyah
Ok, I didn’t hear anything past your calendar, thank you for using outstanding visual aids.
Thank you Abby!
Thank you , exactly what I've been searching for.
you save me a lot of time!!!
am building my first forge and now i know what to use for it!
Glad to hear and wish you good luck on your build! Booyah!
Respectfully Sir@@RickRabjohn I was informed concrete explodes at a high heat temperature such as over 590 degrees Fahrenheit, there's so many fears / risk I don't want to take & hope to find guidance for in making my firebrick forge, I need to know if it's safe to use & what the cheapest route / best / safest brick to use for building a forge is, is there any suggestions for this, I plan on using a very high heat up to over 3000 degrees Fahrenheit & I don't know if it's safe ! I'm young & learning alot, thank you for your video & information, I wonder what name Lowes's would call the heavy hard brick your using for a furnace / forge Sir ?
In advance thank you Sincerely, & I don't know if this means anything to you, but I saw a acronyms Booyah, would NJROTC JROTC CSMC USMC Hoorah Semper Fi~ mean anything to you Sir ?
4 years & thank you for your services / leading the way Sir" Sincerely"!
Respectfully, / Sincerely.
Signed :
This young humble Florida boy / soul .
Paul~
Never knew the the fibers needed to be coated. You are the first one to mention it. I need around 1900 for clay kiln.
I seen one guy use plaster mixed with sand.
I looking at the 2 inch fiber.
I thought you were going to say the fiber was the least efficient. Cancer hmm
Made a patio once with fire brick. Long time ago.
Awesome info! Thanks for sharing it with us newbies!
Great comparison video!! Way to go Rick
Thanks so mUch for checking it out and your comment - appreciate it; Booyah!
Good video but just FYI, the small brick is not concrete if it's a fire brick. Firebrick is composed of silica and alumina. Otherwise great information!
Question, your smart ! I'm young & becoming a blacksmith, I want to build a brick forge, I'm in Florida, is there any suggestions for not exploding bricks, that will withstand up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit that I can use for my safety reasons that is near me, like at least in America / maybe close to Florida or online ? A lump charcoal forge I'm making I have been looking for months now..... Any advise / opinions / thoughts / suggestions will help me greatly & thank you sincerely in advance !
Sincerely, Paul~
you probably dont care but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Pedro Tucker Instablaster :)
@Arturo Khari thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Arturo Khari It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass!
Have to say, I was looking for a fire brick cutting video but, wound up watching your whole video. GREAT JOB on explaining these differences and excellent video. Yep, I like the skulls also!!
Thanks for checking it out Don and appreciate the comment; Booyah!
Thank you for the great information! My question is would plaster of paris be a good coating for the ceramic blanket?
No. good question. It's not a refractory and doesn't hold up.
I'm working on building my first forge and opt into the firebrick method. Stuff around here cost a lot more money so those cheep fire bricks are close to 7$ a piece. I did find that cutting them was easiest with a jigsaw and a worn out wood blade. I used a old piece of angle iron and a couple of wood clamps to get a nice straight cut. What I am very curious about is if you have used the refractory cement at all? I used some to morter the bricks into place and close off any gaps in between the bricks but I was also thinking about doing a good half inch layer of it on the inside of the forge to act as extra protection and to decrease the amount of area I need to heat. Do you think that would be a good idea or should I just leave the fire bricks showing? I have built a forced air propane burner but have no idea that actual temp it gets to.
Good question...I recently coated the inside of my forge with Satanite....so far it's working well.
@@RickRabjohn update. I lit my forge for the first time last night. The refractory cement bubbled a little with some very minor cracking but held up better than just the straight fire brick did. I did add an extra piece of firebrick with a thin coat of refractory cement on top to place on the floor and take the brunt of any wear from slag or the burner. All and all once the forge was up to temp for a good hour I threw a peice of 3/4" round bar in there and it took about 5 to 10 min before it was glowing
Finally a properly decorated workshop! Flag, skull and pictures of what not to wear when working in the shop (methink they must be OSHA safety posters).
Yes - that's exactly what I told my wife - they are officially certified OSHA posters - ha ha ha......thanks for checking it out! Booyah!
Yes - that's exactly what I told my wife - they are officially certified OSHA posters - ha ha ha......thanks for checking it out! Booyah!
Love the calendar
Booyah!
About efficiency, if you were to rub the forge for realøy long sessions, wouldnt something that apsorbs heat be better? If you insulate a second layer which reflects heat.
As an example, you are forging something, you pull it out of forge to shape it, and turn down the propane while shaping.
I imagine that the apsorbing stones will keep the forge hot for longer.
I dont know tho, im still a beginner
Really helpfull video by the way, thanks for sharing your knowøedge
I have since coated the inside of my forge with a product called Satanite - which is awesome at reflecting back the heat
personal opinion alert.
1) firebrick (the yellowish compact brick) is a heat battery it absorbs heat and releases it slowly back, it is used mainly for flooring to help avoid intense spikes and drops in heats (ovens and such) they create a somewhat constant heat surface. Use it for the spot where your burner blows the flames for a long lasting wall and for the spot where you place your crucible for a somewhat uniform heating up.
2) fire insulating brisk (the white brick) those are insulators they provide less heat exchange with the environment and minimize the heat losses they do not reflect heat back they just do not propagate that heat to the surrounding area that well.
3) The ceramic blanket plays much the same role with the insulating bricks with grater success.
Here is my thoughts on a forge build. Yellow bricks in the inside with white brick (or ceramic blanket) on the outside to help with the insulation. For coating I would use some sort of heat resistant concrete (plaster of paris?) to enclose the blanket (or the white bricks) and part of the yellow bricks. I expect it to produce the best results in terms of life expectancy and maximum heat. Keep in mind those are only opinions. I never tried them so they are unfunded opinions as well.
Thank you for the explanation it was very much appreciated.
Good summary / comments - I like your ideal forge build - the other option would be the soft white brick on the sides and top and the hard brick on the bottom. Tons of options for sure. Thanks Booyah!
Your thoughts on the yellow bricks have changed my mind on what I am going to do. I need a forge that will be running for possibly 8 hours a day. Thus a "heat battery" is a good idea to help prevent heat loss between pours.
Thanks to Rick and Jo Ko for posting these - am framing your text and start modifying my furnace
Rick/Jo - Since the fire brick can take a lot of heat beating - It can be used as the inner most to face the fire - and to protect the heat from losing - a normal wool insulation batt can be used to wrap the fire brick ? it is a lot cheaper than the ceramic blanket - I am just wondering if that is that effective ? what are your thoughts?
Done a bunch of this - save yourself some time and headaches and do it right the first time with 2" of ceramic fiber insulation, like Kaowool, Superwool, etc., rigidized and coated on the inside. Best way with Kaowool is to apply a 1" layer, then rigidizer first -- let it dry -- that hardens up the ceramic fiber fabric, then another 1" layer of the wool, rigidize that (make sure to mist spray wet with water before applying the rigidizer or it won't work! -- Let the rigidizer harden/dry, then coat it with satanite or other high-temp cement, then final coat it with an IR reflector thin layer, like ITC-100. These are FAR more efficient walls for acheiving high temps than any kind of bricks. If you're just firing pottery, brick kilns are fine. If you're heating metal to welding temps, spend the money and do it right -- it'll last longer than three or four brick forges, heat quicker, hotter, and be lighter-weight. Gas forges heat up fast and cool down fast and that repeated extreme thermal cycling degrades, cracks and crumbles fire bricks to bits in short order. Fire bricks are better for kilns and ovens where they heat up slower, to lower temps, stay hot longer and cool down slowly.
I don't disagree with what your saying, and thanks for outlining the ideal set-up. That is the best, but like I indicated, I am staying away from kaowool given my past experience with cancer. So, that means less effeciency and dealing with cracked bricks, but so be it. Maybe I'm being overly cautions but better safe than sorry. At leastfor me. Thanks again.
Would it be better to put a fire brick in the bottom in terms of durability and replaceability? Over time I feel like the bottom might degrade and being able to replace it would be helpful.
I have a question if you don’t mind.
I am building a propane and waist oil furnace out of an old stainless steel shop vacuum cleaner and got enough ceramic blanket for 2” around on the inside and got the two 50 pound bags of refectory to go on over that what thickness should i go for with the refectory ?
@@tonypike5785 - totally depends on what kind of refractory you got in those 50 lb bags. If it’s KastOLite, it can be as thin as 1/2”, or you can ‘cast’ it a fair bit thicker - like 1” to 2” thick. Either way, you should DEFINITELY rigidize your ceramic blanket insulation first. You want a hard surface for the castable refractory to set on. Put in the first 1 inch layer of ceramic fiber blanket, let it air dry in a warm place, flame cure it with a low flame for a few minutes, at least twice with a cooling. In between. Then, add your second layer, rigidizer, air dry, flame cure, then you will see it is hard and ready to apply the castable on top of it. Make sure to ‘butter’ before rigidizing - spritz water lightly onto the layers before applying the rigidizer. Don’t skip the rigidizing steps! If it’s some other type of castable refractory, just follow the instructions on it for application and curing, but pretty much any of them are going to need to go onto an already-rigidized blanket. Don’t put any castable on soft blanket - it’ll crack and fail.
I’m building a ribbon burner forge and I’m going with soft fire bricks and a layer of hard fire brick on top of the soft fire bricks for the floor. The walls and roof are also soft fire brick. Coated in itc 100. I’m doing this so flux won’t obliterate the floor and it’s easily replaceable. The soft fire brick will insulate well enough and the two main reason is it’s much more durable and safe. I’d rather not deal with the ceramic wool danger.
Respectfully, I was told concrete explodes if I'm building a lump charcoal forge, Im young & learning still. Kay-oh-woll ?
Thank you for this video Sir !
G-28 soft brick IFB insulating fire brick straights or better, silica firebrick 3000 degrees Fahrenheit.
Very good information, would you feel comfortable using the insulated brick for the inside of a pizza oven with the brick exposed? Not the floor of the oven just the walls and top.
Love your wall art. Glad to see some Americans are still Men.
I have no idea how much it cost per square inch. I bought a roll of kaol wool 1” x24”x25’ for $96. The coating I bought was $25 for a half gallon. So for $121 or so bucks. I have made 2 propane forges. 1 is 12”x18” and the other is 16”x36” 2 burner. As well as a foundry. I still have plenty left for anything else I want to make.
Thanks - That's a lot of forge space - have fun with them - Booyah!
What did you coat them with?
billy19461 it is called Tex Bond. Air set heat resistant mortar. Bought it from Texas Ferrier supply
Hi, very informative video. I have a made a gas forge using the hard cheap firebriks, and i have added insulation in the form of vermaculite mixed with a bit of cement, to make it stay in chape . That way i have the hard durable firebriks inside the forge and it is insulatet to keep the heat in.
That sound good Steffen - how's it working?
Hi, it works allright, but i can not get up to welding temperature, maybe because i only have one burner, i have read on Anvilfire.com that one burner can heat 240 cu inch room, i have 290 cu inch room in my forge, so that might be the reason
I experimented with my forge by 1) adding another layer of brick to reduce the cubic inches and 2) used insulating soft firebricks to reflect the heat - that said, I haven't been able to reach forge welding temps either. I think I would need to either use the Kaowool or add a third burner. That said, I decided to just use my coal forge for forge welding and my propane forge for everything else.
Rick, thanks for the video. I didn't realize the health hazards of Kaowool. I am scratching parts together to build a 5 gallon propane forge for making knives. Steve Mud Slough Knives USA
Thanks for checking it out Steve! Good luck with your build!
Small note from a Marine. As you look at your flag the stars should be on the left. Semper Fi
Will flux eat through the firebrick like it does the ceramic brick?
Yes - borax eats through everything - The hard brick may last a bit longer but it still will need to be replaced over time. Good luck; Booyah!
Hi , I watched your video, good info since I do have all 3. I went with the blanket , coated it the used refactor cement I got at a hardware store. Coated it twice and let dry. Upon curing the cement bubbled. Why??? I scraped the bubbles off and Re coated it. I have to wait 24 hours to see if the third coat fixed my problem. Any information on why it bubbled would be very helpful. Thanks
Happens to me too - likely entrapped moisture in the refractory material - I just rough up the surface (pop bubbles) after the first coat and recoat. Someone suggested pre-drying your bricks or blanket materials in the oven to limit the bubbles.
@@RickRabjohn hi there , I took your advice and popped the bubbled areas then Re coated the area. All is good and I’m now trying to make some dragon head key chain out of rebar. Thanks again and hammer on!!
I really like your video, thanks for doing it. I have used castable referecatory before but it cracks way too easy. By the way I sure like your calender.
Could I coat the hard fire brick (which came with my propane forge as a base on top of the kaowool) with Satanaite refractory cement? Would this reduce the heat it absorbs? I also want to use some bricks as doors. Same question for these. Thanks.
You can - I coated my entire inside of my gas forge fire bricks both the hard brick on bottom and soft bricks on side and top with Satanite - helped a lot in retaining heat
Thanks for the reply. I've done this now. 1 kg just about covered the lot. I'm assuming that the coating can be thin, as it is reflective. I also hardened the kaowool first. I've bought some insulating firebricks to act as a makeshift door too. Ready to fire up as soon as I finish my anvil base (joining some logs together with studding).
Your thought about fire clay in a kiln or foundry, what would you think best application would be?
Goood question Samantha but I'm not certain about kilns. perhaps a pottery store would know what's best.
@@RickRabjohn thanks I bought fire clay and plan to use wood ash, cannot locate fire blanket so I'll make all the pieces thanks
This is great info. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure!
Lots to think about Sir I thank you.
Think I will be more careful but going K Wool with lots of care.
thank you and good luck with your forge
Hello @Rich Rabjohn. I was building some propane forges for sale and it was build with hard fire brick. How long does brick last? Small crack (bearly seen by a eye) are not a problem? Does these type of brick get more crack overtime? I'm using firebrick for inside forge insulation, and out the outside perlite+cement (for retaining the heat) in a barrel shape tanks (propane tank, water tank etc.)
The hard brick I bought from Lowes about 18 months ago has cracked in some areas of the forge, but are cheap enough to replace. The soft brick has not cracked. Good luck with your build.
Very helpful. I'm just trying to get a forge together, and don't have a lot of money. Thank you.
Welcome Craig and good luck with your build.
Hi Rick.....if you talk about efficiency. ..does the size matter..? I'm a knife maker and my forge is 4 x 6 x 18 inches and build it with hard fire bricks ( in progress ) and looking at installing two Frosty T burners.
I would like to achieve 1300 Celsius. Am I on the right track....🐾
Greetings
In terms of size, I assume you mean thickness of the fire brick. I have tried using single 1.25 inches and then double 2.5 inches combined thickness of hard bricks which made little difference. I also tried 2.5 inch thick soft brick on the sides with hard brick on the top and bottom...that made a nice difference. So, if you want efficiency, use the soft brick and as thick as practical.. cheers
Hi Thanks for the great vid it was helpful.
I have a Question for you should I use rigidizer if I’m using kast-olite? With on ceramic brick and ceramic fiber ?
I recently finished building a home foundry furnace and used the white brick coated with a similar refractory cement as kast-olite and that worked well. I also recently relined my propane forge with white brick and applied two coats of Satanite to coat/cement - the satanite worked really well. The trick I found was to dry the white brick in oven initially and then applying thin coats - letting them dry thoroughly before applying another coat. Hope that helps and good luck with your build.
Love the video, just an add though….firebricks are not made of concrete, they’re made from refractory mortar. Concrete is a huge no no in forges (it’ll explode). Just in case anyone heard concrete and figured they’d get some and make a forge out of concrete
Thanks for the clarifying information on Firebrick - you are right and thanks for the heads up
can you coat the kaowool with plaster of paris ???
Never heard anyone using plaster of paris - refractory cement, HT-100, satanite would be my first choices. Hope that helps and good luck with your build.
Was wondering if you could cut the ceramic firebrick in half
You sure can and easily with a hand saw - Booyah!
Hey Hey Pete - no worries and appreciate you sharing the other alternative which I was not aware of. Heck that's why I started this channel - to share and exchange information amongst those with the same passions. The high grade bricks sound terrific but as you say expensive. For now, I'll stick with my current set-up but appreciate you reaching out.
Ceramic wool aka asbestos lite.
Quick question if i made a forge with fire bricks on the bottom coated with satanite to reflect the temp with the fire blanket also coated with satanite and maybe the price are better or because it is bulk priced for 21 bucks for refactory cement or is that the wrong stuff
Bryan, I hear Satanite is good for coating wool blankets or the soft white bricks within a forge or foundry furnace - not sure what the costs are. I just see a lot of guys using it. Also, I just built a foundry furnace and used Imperial Refractory cement from True Value to coat all the white soft bricks - that worked well and was inexpensive. Good luck with your build!
Question choosing a tank to make a forge is aluminum or stainless steel good idea or bad or do I have to add extra steps or extra insulation? I saw a 30 gallon propane tank for 30 and wanted to make sure not going to smoke check me
Thanks Bryan - Aluminum has a melting point of 1220 F yet you need to run the forge high enough to reach forging temp for mild steel which is approx. 1500 to 1800 F. It's also expensive. So, I would use mild steel given it has a melting temp of 2500 F. Stainless could work but it's also expensive. Stay safe if re-purpusing a propane tank - I hear it's dangerous...
@@RickRabjohn yea was also looking at a old tank going to use water to fill rinse and repeat fill with water again when I cut
have you considered HT stainless steel sheet, its a grade 310 and melts above about 1700 deg C, a good heat reflector & abrasion prevention lining to protect Kaowool. Also, ceramic fibre board (very dense, compressed Kaowool) ?
I haven't thought of that. Good ideas but for me I am a bit leary of using Kaowool. Perhaps it unwarrented, but I just rather not take the chance..
Thanks for your video is clear and to the point, I want to be welding so I getting k wool.
Thanks John and good luck with your forge!
Hello. Could you please help me with a question? Recently purchased a devil forge with the ceramic wool lining. I used Refactory Cement to seal the wool lining. On my first fire up the cement began to bubble. I allowed the cement to cure for 5 days prior to first fire. Do you have any suggestions as to why this may be happening?
It happened to me a few times as well when coating insulating fire bricks (i.e., the soft white bricks). Underlying moisture is the issue. When this happens, I fire up the foundry/forge to drive off all the moisture (get it bone dry) - then let it cool down - brush and vacuum out any loose refractory that came off and then re-coat. Hope that helps Trace, and good luck with your new forge.
@@RickRabjohn Thank you very much for your prompt reply. I assumed moisture was the issue but appreciate your confirmation. Best. Trace
Quick question for you, what type of hardener should i use for the kao wool? Ive seen blue and clear but no product names have been stated and ive seen a person use refractory mortar. Im building a propane forge and would like to glean as much knowledge as i can from as many perspectives as i can.
Aaron, while I don't have any personal experience with Kaowool coatings, I have seen guys use either Satanite Refractory Mortar or HT-100 coating for sealing the Inswool/Kaowool fibers in their forges. Hope that helps and good luck with your build!
Thanks Rick
Very Informative! Great video, as it helped me alot. One question is that I made the metal frame of my forge a-little too small and there is really only room for 1 inch of material of my choice. For the same reasons, I have chosen not to use ceramic wool. Could I cut the ceramic brick down the middle and use it as 2 bricks( one inch thick each) and still be more efficient than the concrete bricks? Or should I just use the thinner concrete bricks? im not too concerned about efficiency as This is not something I will not do very often but I would like it the forge to last for awhile with out much maintenance.
Thank you. I would use the hard concrete bricks on the bottom and the softer ceramic refractory bricks cut 1" thick for the sides and top. good luck with your forging; booyah!
Will coating the wool with silica work for locking in particles as well as making the wool rigid?
I don’t know the silica you would be using. I would goggle it and see if others have tried it.
Thanks for the video
ok thanks for rely. im in the uk and dont think we can get satanite here. the reason i asked about plaster of paris is because i have a small furnace i bought from the U.S. ans the insulation in it is pure white but solid , like solid kaowool, but if it was kaowool soaked in satanite to make it hard , it would not be white would it ?
Sounds like you have what's called Ceramic Fiberboard in the small furnace which is white. I know it's used in furnaces, Loz Harrop whose channel is called "ppotty1" uses it in his Rocket Stoves, and Glen from the channel "Glen GS Tongs" uses it in his propane forge. Given Loz is from the UK, he might have an idea where you could get some local. It's often hard to find. Hope that helps and good luck with your forge
Satanite and other coatings will be blueish when applied, then dry lighter and "burn in" almost white, so yes -- might be that. Good stuff. Best way with Kaowool is to apply a rigidizer first -- let it dry -- that hardens up the ceramic fiber fabric, then coat it with satanite or other high-temp cement, then final coat it with an IR reflector thin layer, like ITC-100. These are FAR more efficient walls for acheiving high temps than any kind of bricks. Gas forges heat up fast and cool down fast and that repeated extreme thermal cycling degrades, cracks and crumbles fire bricks to bits in short order. Fire bricks are better for kilns and ovens where they heat up slower, to lower temps, stay hot longer and cool down slowly.
Im looking to start forging, I want to build my forge but cant do coal due to local laws. I would not be planning on upgrading my forge for years, im on a low enough budget aswell. I dont need welding temps, would the ceramic bricks be my best option (gas is expensive so efficiency is important)
Be careful you might get addicted like the rest of us :-)) I would agree with you on lining the entire inside with the soft ceramic brick - If you plan to do forge welding with Borax flux - I would use the cheaper hard brick for just the bottom. Thanks for checking out my video and good luck with your build.
Rick Rabjohn thx
Coat the ceramic firebrick with HT100.. better than wool by far! and lasts much longer
I like your thinking Wayne
Thanks for posting...very informative and helpful in deciding which way to go. Could you please post a vid of your forge? Thanks!
My apologies...please disregard last...I found the vid in your channel. Thank you once again.
Hey thank you for checking out the my channel and appreciate your comments. Booyah!!!
How did you find those $2.00 concrete bricks? I ended up making my own out of perlite. I just bought the materials.
Lowes has them. They are also available at fireplace stores here locally.
Hey I had to look twice but that is my wife on your calendar! She never mentioned she did that? Great film though.
Gosh I had no idea that was your wife - she never said anything when I took this picture :-)))
Ok so I had to look at the video twice to see what calendar your talking about. Guess I was just looking for the info on insulating.
Great analysis. Thumbs up. I subscribed. What else can you coat the kaowool with ? Will MEECO'S RED DEVIL 610 Refractory Cement be the best?
Thanks Bee Green - I am not familiar with MEECO's product - I would post your question on some of the forums - perhaps someone has tried this before.
Good info helps a lot thanks
Thank you !
Welcome
I just finished my kaowool forge and din not coat anything and a yellow residue was left on the surface is it to late to coat the wool then
Hey Willy, I'm not sure. If it's still structurally sound, I would guess yes. Perhaps try and see how well the coating adheres. Good luck!
Ok thanks for replying
A couple of my friends think I’m to old to start blacksmithing. I’m only 37 and I can swing a hammer like Thor. Haha
Too old??? no way - your in your prime - swing away - heck I'm 56 and still swinging; Booyah!
Right on! Thank you sir! I’ve really been wanting to get my own setup and start making stuff.
I am 72 and I'm going to build one.
awesome info, thanks for the help
Good luck with your build!
You don't need a grinder to cut fire bricks. A hack saw works or even (like I did) use an old hand saw. It will dull the teeth on the blade (who cares, I use it just to cut firebrick anyway) but it works very well.
good to know and thanks for the tip.
Hey great video.are your hard fire bricks holding up for you?I'm ordering fire bricks and was wondering if the Lowe's brand worked fine longterm.
Thanks
Hey Tim, they are working fine. They are fragile, so dropping or hitting them will crack them. Beyond that they are good.
Very informative, and I'm looking forward to putting this info to good use... but the subtitles at 3:37! So wrong!
Thanks Jakrae - so what's wrong at 3.37? Please weigh in cause sharing and learnng together is what it's all about, Booyah!
Rick Rabjohn the subtitles mention "high temperature for Jews and kilns."
I know you said forges instead of "for jews" but I'm hard of hearing so I rely on subtitles a bit.
Oh my gosh - thanks for the heads up - so much for the CC software being used.......
Tractor Supply also generally has the hard brick
Why do we insulate it? Don't we want the heat to come out???? I'm confused
nope - insulating a gas forge is critical to retaining heat - it also helps protect the outer support steel - keep in mind - my forge can heat steel at temperatures between 1800 - 2000 + degrees F
Very helpful, thanks much.
Welcome and thanks for checking out my channel!
Very informative
Glad you liked it
Thanks for the good info!
Welcome Tanner and thanks for checking it out!
🎟concrete can literally explode if damp at all, then exposed to fierce heat. Even rock can do this , ask any camper whos put wet rocks around a firepit.
You’re definitely right and I know someone who had hot rock shot into their tearduct from that, but he mistook firebrick for “concrete”
You can easily make the $6.00 insulation brick, here's the recipe.
60% Plaster of Paris or Joint Compound to 40% clean sand add hot water to activate and mix well. Pour into molds & let cure for 3 day's. This same recipe is used to mix furnace cement or fireplace mortar. Don't waste your $$ on shipping.
Fire bricks have a low thermal conductivity - meaning heat does not pass through the fire bricks, instead they reflect heat back into the firebox!
Yes indeed, thanks Jackie
Good info Rick,
Thanks my friend; cheers!!!
Not sure if you will read this or not. But just so you know. When displaying a FLAG Vertical. The stars go to the left side of the view.
yes I fixed it - thanks
Thanks! Informative!
Thank you and thanks for checking it out!
Great video
Booyah! :-))))
Where informative video, good job Rick
Thanks my friend - appreciate it!!
very good information...THANKS
Welcome Ken and thanks for checking it out
Hey what you say about repeating yourself about 10 times
Your American flag is hung backwards Stars always go to the left
Wrong, not always and your left and my left don't matter. It's the flag's left that matters. If the flag is looking out the window, which it is in this case, the Union is correct. On the flag's right. The U.S. Flag code spells all this out.
A local supplier sells me 2 bucks a square foot for kaowool 👍
That’s a deal.....for sure...
W
Info?
??
I bought some the other day for $0.015 per cubic inch. Good deal
Please read this post for safety on ceramic wool. Always wear a respirator around it, treat it like you would Asbestos. www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53239-ceramic-wool-insulation-safety-alert/
Do you have any idea how much more gas your using ?! That's like saying well I'm going to travel the us in a camper for the rest of my days , this motorhome that gets 5 miles to the gallon is ten dollars cheaper than that one that gets 20 miles to the gallon !!!! 🤤🤤🤤
I wish but could never figure it out
I've heard that the key to getting the forge up to proper temp is hot chicks. Is this true?
hahahaha - yes that is it.......Thanks Noah!
Fire bricks are expensive you get 6 of them for 30 dollars
Have you tried Lowes - their Old Castle hard fire brick are less than $3 bucks a brick last time I checked.
Rick Rabjohn oh ok I have to go and check thanks for the info
🔥🛠🔪👍✌
I was a union insulator for Alabama Power for years and years we called that suruwal and the white block the one that you can cut with us all a hand saw Caleb that's what we called that and you can go down to any insulation corporation that sells insulation and buy the stuff you can buy a whole roll of that sir wall 25 foot by 24 in for less than a hundred bucks that's enough to make 25 foot by 24 in 1 inch thick for less than a hundred bucks that's enough to a bunch a bunch
Thanks for sharing your experience and tips Michael!
Their $2.00 at the brick yard.
go to a brick supplier or chimney supply co. soooo much cheaper.
Good tip
Wasting the time.