Just saw that the venturis are out of stock!!!!!! If people really want I might have a way to get the but please let me know as I will need to make a large order!!!!
Daniel Moss I would love to 5-6 of them! Our smithing class is about to build some new gas forges as our group is always growing. Let me know if you can get them please!
I would defiantly be up for getting the parts for this. I have looked into building a similar burner or 2 in the past but have struggled to get the parts I needed without buying multiples. The suppliers I did find who would do small orders were in the US which ruled them out due to the shipping cost. I have also spoken online to other people in the UK and Ireland who have had the same issues which makes me believe you would not have an issue in finding enough customers to make a bulk order worth while. Please message me back if you do get this idea going. Thanks for the videos Dan and keep up your good work and contributions to the smithing community.
I'm going to be building a forge for myself and start learning blacksmithing. Watching a lot of RUclips videos on the subject. Thanks for the video and the explanations. ⚒😎
Nice Dan, however....: For those of us in the US, be aware the pipe threads on these fittings are NOT compatible with off the shelf parts from home stores like Lowes. BSP is similar to NPT, but not the same and the difference is enough that you will have a lot of trouble sealing leaks and getting parts to move smoothly. If you buy this venturi, make sure you also order BSP nipples, valves and nuts. You will also need an adapter to go to a standard US hose or regulator.
I tig welded one up from stainless pipe, a mate drilled a 5mn hole through a stainless 12mm bolt on his lathe, like this the temperatures are amazing sounds like a jet engine when the regulators turned up full to 4 Bar.
Excellent detail. I'm thinking about using 1/4" NPS lamp pipe for the tube and a 1/4" NPT floor flange as my adjuster. I'm thinking I'll have to use a thread or die to tune up some of the thread sizes.
I think the first time I saw DIY gas burners like these were on Ron Reil's website way back in the day. They were simple and worked well enough to do the job, I built one myself and still use it in my little foundry furnace. Looks like there have been some refinements to the concept, like the one piece cast venturi and choke. You might consider a 90 degree bend in the burner tube to help protect the ball valve from the chimney effect Dan, like in a Swan. I'd also check out 'blown' gas burners (and in particular 'ribbon' burners) if you're going to run classes, natural venturi's tend to eat propane when compared.
it took a while but i finally built myself two forge burners. thanks Daniel. after i finish my foundry build i will try a forced air burner. well happy with these. Thanks Daniel!!!
@@danielmoss2089 i was hoping to but i don't think there is a way i can post pictures in the comments. happy to post on your website (if you have one) or anywhere else.
Fantastic video, thank you! As a noob to blacksmithing I've been impressed at how willing many experts like yourself are to give up their time to help others.
I would suggest using ceramic fiber between the bricks and the metal structure. I used to work doing this, but way larger stuff😊 The fiber saves both bricks and the metal frame, and keeps the heat inside the forge much better😊 I like your video and think I will try it. Thank you😊🙏
Dan Please keep us informed of your experience. I am particularly interested in how it burns after 15 or 20 minutes. My experience is that the end of the burner tube (flare) can get very hot resulting in gas ignition in the burner tube causing chuffing - inefficient ignition. I'm also interested in the pressure you work the burner at and your experience with using different size jet diameters.
I'm also interested in the answer. I've dabbled with gas orifice size and have used the proper calculations for mixing tube length and volume but still ran funny until I upped the size but it doesn't reach welding heat still, so am unsure of reducing the size again and upping the pressure to keep the gas volume but increased speed?
So not sure if I said about this in the video but the plan is to make different flares when my lathe is running again. Out of stainless and chuckyer. Also using the fire brick to create part if the flare should also help. If my research holds up. Lol I will keep people posted.
Hey Daniel, thanks for the info about the hydraulic bolt head earlier being 1/2 inch. i have almost finished my burners now. as per an old conversation about alec Steele in the comments.. consider this- i have seen alec steeles videos.. in his old ones he was like a normal person. he added sensationalism.. people who probably will never pick up a hammer may watch them. your videos are solid. you play to the people intent on working at blacksmithing and you do it bloody well. if you wish to sensationalise and get a higher subscription then think Bruce Forsythe, add a bit of glamour. start making throwing axes with gold inlay. to me thats just playing to the crowd.. i have watched plenty of you both, but i come to your channel to learn and his for light entertainment.
I'm trying to find the bulkhead you mentioned. Found plenty of types however the sites don't give me the over all length. Was wondering if you can direct me to a site that sells exactly what you used. I would be grateful
Wow, nice job. That thing is powerful.From watching other sites on the same subject - flux drippings begin eating the floor of the firebox from the git-go. A hard ceramic fire brick floor would seem like a good idea.Easy to pop out and replace when it gets eaten away.
The thumb wheel,, a 2in hole saw + a 5/16 bit chucked in a drill press. Get some 1/4 or 3/8 aluminium plate.. drill out a 2 in slug,,tap the hole.....presto...a perfect fit
Hi, I received a day in a forge for a birthday present recently. I enjoyed it tremendously and I am thinking of setting up a small hobby forge at home but don’t know where to start. I have been look8ng for used tools and a moderate size anvil but don’t know what I should expect to pay. Any advice on where to find the tools and anvil and what I should expect to pay? Cheers.
@Daniel Moss - Can you link me to the "male 1.1/4inch to female 1inch adapter. 1/4inch ball valve." on the jtm plumbing site? Gonna build a couple of these sod thanks very much for your hard work making this video
Hey dan I used a pizza oven brick as the base of my gas forge, they are a lot harder than the k26 insulation bricks and only half the thickness, so had to do a bit of cutting to make it fit but it seems to be holding up quite well
Very nice build! I am wondering what PSI range you typically use. I have built a similar burner and need to get a pressure regulator. Thanks for sharing!
@Daniel Moss Now that you've used this, do you really feel the need for the venturi air adjustment washers? What's the flame like with a proper regulator and nothing in the path of the intake (or washer adjust wide open)? I've made a version of this with no adjustment and it seems to be fine. I REALLY like this pre-built venturi though. Just ordered one off Amazon!
Hi Daniel, a 1/4 inch hydraulic bolt is 6.25mm. if the mig tip is 8mm , then how can i drill a 7mm hole for tapping into a 6.25mm bolt? i'm really confused- i can see it works.. where am i going wrong?
Took me a second to work out what you was going on about lol. 1/4 inch is the hole diameter not the total diameter of the fitting. I believe the fitting is about 1/2" or 12-13mms
I like the simplicity of your burner design the most, are you still offering the venturi and gas jet set up? Have you thought of selling the venturi/jet/airflow washer set up pre-made? Cheers.
To get better control the flame you need to have a 60 degree taper on your flare. Its all to do with flame front and gas pressure. As you turn the gas down the gas flow cannot support such a large flame front, by having a taper the flame front is able to move back down the taper thus giving you grater control.
12 degree taper on the flare, Sir. 60 is waaay too extreme an angle. (12 degrees = 1" to 2" over 1foot.) That's your angle for the burner flare -- my experience -- ymmv...
Hi Daniel, just getting the stuff ready for making two of these, got some 12 mm brass rod and threaded 1/4" for 60mm still got to drill 17/64 and thread M8, how long is your hydraulic bulkhead fitting, also what size hole is in your mig tip??
Revendo o vídeo vi com mais detalhes o quanto ficou perfeito Magnífico lindo a chama ficou bem uniforme parabéns 👏👏👏👏👏👏 Posta o funcionamento dele na forja 👍
This was good Dan, the burner looked good, the Gameco burners have a threaded reducer on the end, I have the small burner but intend getting the bigger one.
what size off mig tip are you useing? 0.8, 1, or 1.2mm fed up off not being able to light my forge up as there seems to be a big burny thing in the sky just now that makes everyone put there washing out!! so have to make a gas one as i've got jobs to do, never realy use one so this should be fun lol apart from a 60mm gas burner and some fire bricks did work sort off lol
@@danielmoss2089 oh right thank you, didn't click on the link, handy i use 0.8mm tips on my mig so might as well use the same ones and make them fit the burner.
Great video. I do have a bit of advice and a question about gas forges. Advice first, take the weight off the bricks on the roof. My forge has a bit of pipe and a thumb screw to hold the burner but as the forge heats and cools the top bricks under there own weight have cracked, they haven't fallen in yet but will let extra heat escape. (Question) I have built my burner from a solid billet of steel but didn't ream the bore (still has drill scratches in it.) The blue cone in the flame seems to move and osalate, does your burner cone move? Sorry for the long massage.
Check this out ruclips.net/user/edit?ar=2&o=U&video_id=PCxvGr3K0W8 Get that threaded tube from - ebay - search for 8BPX0404 1/4" X 1/4" BSPP MALE EXTENDED BULKHEAD 60 DEGREE CONE C/W LOCKNUT
Thanks Daniel. As a novice whos come from the other side (gas and am building solid fuel forge) how does the 2 min heat time compare to the coal forge? Also for anyone whos willing and cant get the venturi you can get pipe adaptors that go from 1" to 1 1/2 or there abouts and they can act as your venturi. I welded a bit of metal that is quite similar to the shown venturi on the back of it.
Two minutes is fast, dude. ;-) The problem with using reducers (1" to 1.25" to 1.5", etc.) is the 'steps' -- the hard steps inside disrupt the air/gas flow. A smoothly tapering venturi is waaaay better -- both at the air intake / cooler end where the gas line connects and also at the burner 'flare' end. Someone said earlier that you need a 60 degree taper on the burner. I've always heard 12 degrees, which is far less of an angle -- i.e., over 1 foot a 1" pipe would taper to 2" -- that's your burner flare angle. I've done it -- works great and helps you still get a nice flame at lower gas pressures.
I just spotted your YT page and that you are offering some venturis + a few other bits, do you have a price and time scale yet? I would be wanting 2 for my new forge I am making (And these would save me time making them)
@@danielmoss2089 I know I commented my interest before if you are able to source all the parts in bulk and resell the individual parts either singularly or a a D.I.Y kit. . . If there are any developments I would be really grateful if I was able to be kept in the loop and the option to get in on this if and when they become available. Cheers Dan. Keep up the cracking job you been doing and love the fact you been helping at your local college and are now talking about running a class. Great to See someone wanting to pass on and give back from early in your career. Many people our there are to preoccupied building a business and bank balance to do what you are that is until they are looking for something new to do after retiring to keep busy. Any knowledge given back to students of the craft is great, no matter the teachers age or motivation but I think you are a good role model and inspiration to do that all on top of building a business. Throw on top running a RUclips channel providing good content and videography skills. . . . Bloody Good Show there . . . . Dan the Blacksmithin Man !!!
Hi Daniel! Awesome video. I've just received my Venturi from China, want to get the rest of the parts. Could you tell me how long is that bulk head fitting of yours? Trying to find something locally. Thanks!
@@danielmoss2089 Thanks for the really fast answer, Daniel. I'm having a hard time finding such a long fitting. Seems like they're hard to come by here in Poland. I was thinking maybe to use a steel pipe and make an external and internal thread but then the cost of the whole project will go up significantly.
@@danielmoss2089 Hi Daniel! I think I might have found a proper bulkhead fitting here in Poland. If you have some time could you take a look at it? www.wszystkodlarolnictwa.pl/mini%20srebrny/shop/6624-93943-0-VNBSE04-Zlaczka-grodziowa-MM-dluga-14-BSP--14x14--14x14.html The longer thread is 45.5 mm long, it's manufactured by Burnett & Hillman. I've sent them an e-mail asking what's the overall length of the fitting, I guess it'll be around 60 mm or even more. Will that be enough?
I've made this to your specs and when I light it the flame is bright yellow, I can wind the washer all the shut and back open and the flame does not change. Still yellow. Anyone got any ideas?
Send me an email with pictures of your set up and I'll see if I can help. If you copied this exactly then you should have the same results as me. You don't need the second flair to get a blue flame just a tube.
@@danielmoss2089 thank you very much, ive got a feeling I've screwed the fitting too far in, the mig tip looks to be a lot further inside than shown in your video. Il try and fiddle with it tomorrow and will let you know! Thanks for the quick reply!
The gas forge i build, i made from scrap steel, a top plate (4mm) thick, the end of the burner i welded in that top top plate so i have no leaks and its not wobley. On Every Side 90 degre bends so its slides over the bottembox, also scrap. On the left and right of that top plate i drilled and tapped 2 holes with thread so i could remove the top plate with burner and change the bricks. The box is the same sizes as the bricks i can get in or near my hometown, Front and back its open so i can close it up with bricks or have a gap for bigger stuff to pass treu. Piece of angle iron welded to the box. For a first forge is runs good but i found out its handy to have a support for you work, so i welded 2 pieces of pipe on the sides and a other piece slides in and out the support the workpiece. On left en right welded a handle so its easy to lift. Check Every time before forging with soap if you have leaks, and my regulator runs fine with 4 of 5 bar of pressure. Biggest propane tank is a must (the small one freeses up) pressure drops) when the forge is on temp. I dial the pressure down because forging on propane and making hours its pretty expencive. Build a coal forge one year later and i dont use the propaneforge much anymore. Thanks dan, the hammer is one Nice tool to have and it feels like a piece of my body. Awesome!
Fire bricks break down and crumble fast due to the extreme thermal cycling of gas forges. They're cheap-ish, but you'll spend more in the long run than you would just making a proper ceramic fiber insulated / satanite and ITC 100 coated forge in the first place. And yes -- go ribbon burners! Not cheap, but long-run cheaper and quieter. It's all about how much you'll actually use it all... if you're really into it, go deep. ;-)
Nice looking burner. That was going to be my question of what pressure you're running your gas at. I might have to hit you up for a couple hats I didn't know you had those. I'll get a hold of you later. 👍👍⚒on!!!!
Also...for a real cheap ‘forge’...( as I’m sure you know) an old propane gas bottle with the ends cut off and lined with ceramic blanket works a treat! ...not pretty but does the job...cost me £23👍🏼 😎
Just remember to line your ceramic blanket with castable refractory material. The fibres in those blankets can be quite bad for you (it's not asbestos, but the effects are similar).
@@dadegroot Silicosis is name of the disease if I remember right. Similar to Abestosis in the damage it causes to the lungs. The damage from exposure to the fibres is cumulative but as far as I know it requires a fair amount of exposure to cause real health issues. Basically don't snort the stuff :)
Having built a 'cheap' propane bottle forge, I can tell you -- they're not cheap! By the time you're finished getting the ceramic blanket insulation ($50-$70), the rigidizer (~$20), the Satanite (cement-like liner that goes over the rigidized ceramic blanket insulation) - $15 - and the ITC 100 (~$30) for the final IR reflective finish on the inside of the forge, plus a good kiln shelf for the bottom ($20), if you use one of those -- or a castable refractory liner -- something flux-resistant, as flux eats ceramic blanket -- Never mind building your burner(s) for at least $50 each and a 0-30lb pressure gauge for your propane source ($25), you're well up around $200 USD or more. You may be able to re-use some of that on your next one, but still -- they ain't cheap. That said, a properly made LP forge will be hotter and longer-lasting by far than anything made of fire bricks. You see a lot of kilns made of fire brick because they heat up slowly to non-crazy temps, stay hot a long time and cool down slowly. Gas forges heat up fast to crazy high temps, then cool down fast and the thermal cycling is too much for the bricks -- they'll be a pile of rubble in no time. You may get more life out of them by lining the forge with a hi-temp cement like Satanite, but at that point, just build a ceramic blanket type. And yes -- everyone saying ribbon burners are a vast improvement are correct -- wider distribution of better-mixed, more complete-burning gas/air that runs quieter and at lower pressure for more heat, so you save $$ on gas and much quieter. That said -- again, not cheap. If you can weld and figure out the mix for the refractory, the vids on DIY are excellent. GO for it.
I believe the imperial size is close to the drill size than a custom 6.75mm drill bit. If you look on a drilling index you see it say 6.75mm which is hard to find and very expensive. How ever the imperial is required as it is closer to the right size.
@@danielmoss2089 yes that is what I was referring to and you get the pilot hole diameter by subtracting the pitch (1.25mm) from the outer diameter (8mm) and that is rounded up to 6.8. Also the drill bits I work with on a day to day basis get bigger increments of 0.1mm and those are not custom made. (Also cost about 50-80 cents a bit)
Why don't you look on line and fine the drilling sizes you will be surprised. Also I was referring to 0.01mm increments being expensive and hard to find. Not 0.1 as the machining size should be 6.75mm.
@@danielmoss2089 point is should be. I work as a maschineist and M8 is always drilled at 6,8mm that 0,05mm in hole size does not make much of a difference. And in your video you said that M8 should be drilled 7,25mm
@@danielmoss2089 While you're out there I'd also look up 'ribbon burners'. One of those in conjunction with forced air might prove interesting mate. If I was building a gasser of my own I'd definitely try making one.
There are a number of reasons to use forced air (and I do), but it doesn't cut your gas consumption. Gas consumption is all about how hot you want to get your forge, heat loss of the forge, etc. PSI numbers are completely useless without knowing the characteristics of the orifice and dimensions of the tube. I really like this burner design. It's very easy to control your air/fuel mixture, so you can crank up the gas if you want to forge weld, or turn it down for heat treating. In fact, I ordered 2 of those venturi heads before the video finished. What I really need is a great design for a used oil forge burner, because I can get that for free.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Just saw that the venturis are out of stock!!!!!! If people really want I might have a way to get the but please let me know as I will need to make a large order!!!!
Daniel Moss I would love to 5-6 of them! Our smithing class is about to build some new gas forges as our group is always growing. Let me know if you can get them please!
@@marcsenteney3160 well if there is lots of interest I'll look into it dude. I'll do some up dates soon.
US they are still available but bps isnt standard lol
I would defiantly be up for getting the parts for this. I have looked into building a similar burner or 2 in the past but have struggled to get the parts I needed without buying multiples. The suppliers I did find who would do small orders were in the US which ruled them out due to the shipping cost.
I have also spoken online to other people in the UK and Ireland who have had the same issues which makes me believe you would not have an issue in finding enough customers to make a bulk order worth while.
Please message me back if you do get this idea going. Thanks for the videos Dan and keep up your good work and contributions to the smithing community.
I also might be interested in 3 of them. Need for a forge build. Will they come welded and assembled? Thank you for the videos Daniel.
Finally a forge video with easy to follow instructions. Brilliant stuff. Thank you!!!
I'm going to be building a forge for myself and start learning blacksmithing. Watching a lot of RUclips videos on the subject. Thanks for the video and the explanations. ⚒😎
Nice Dan, however....:
For those of us in the US, be aware the pipe threads on these fittings are NOT compatible with off the shelf parts from home stores like Lowes. BSP is similar to NPT, but not the same and the difference is enough that you will have a lot of trouble sealing leaks and getting parts to move smoothly.
If you buy this venturi, make sure you also order BSP nipples, valves and nuts. You will also need an adapter to go to a standard US hose or regulator.
Fair point.
This is a lot better than my current burner design. Thanks!
I tig welded one up from stainless pipe, a mate drilled a 5mn hole through a stainless 12mm bolt on his lathe, like this the temperatures are amazing sounds like a jet engine when the regulators turned up full to 4 Bar.
Excellent detail. I'm thinking about using 1/4" NPS lamp pipe for the tube and a 1/4" NPT floor flange as my adjuster. I'm thinking I'll have to use a thread or die to tune up some of the thread sizes.
I think the first time I saw DIY gas burners like these were on Ron Reil's website way back in the day. They were simple and worked well enough to do the job, I built one myself and still use it in my little foundry furnace. Looks like there have been some refinements to the concept, like the one piece cast venturi and choke. You might consider a 90 degree bend in the burner tube to help protect the ball valve from the chimney effect Dan, like in a Swan. I'd also check out 'blown' gas burners (and in particular 'ribbon' burners) if you're going to run classes, natural venturi's tend to eat propane when compared.
it took a while but i finally built myself two forge burners. thanks Daniel. after i finish my foundry build i will try a forced air burner. well happy with these. Thanks Daniel!!!
Thanks dude happy to help keep safe and love to see some picture??
@@danielmoss2089 i was hoping to but i don't think there is a way i can post pictures in the comments. happy to post on your website (if you have one) or anywhere else.
I think u did good ill try it cause i try aburner from online it tooks 20 min ur work makes 3 min good
Fantastic video, thank you! As a noob to blacksmithing I've been impressed at how willing many experts like yourself are to give up their time to help others.
Daniel why not use a reducing bell for the flare?
I would suggest using ceramic fiber between the bricks and the metal structure. I used to work doing this, but way larger stuff😊 The fiber saves both bricks and the metal frame, and keeps the heat inside the forge much better😊 I like your video and think I will try it. Thank you😊🙏
Were you ever able to find an online source for the extended bulkhead adapters?
How long is the bulkhead fitting, and how large is the MIG tip hole?
I Daniel. Have you got a source for the extra long hydraulic bulkhead fitting please. Finding it difficult to source here in UK. Tanks a million
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222149177255
@@mrstephenporter Are these the ones Daniel used in his burner?
Yes
@@mrstephenporter Thanks!
Dan
Please keep us informed of your experience. I am particularly interested in how it burns after 15 or 20 minutes. My experience is that the end of the burner tube (flare) can get very hot resulting in gas ignition in the burner tube causing chuffing - inefficient ignition. I'm also interested in the pressure you work the burner at and your experience with using different size jet diameters.
I'm also interested in the answer. I've dabbled with gas orifice size and have used the proper calculations for mixing tube length and volume but still ran funny until I upped the size but it doesn't reach welding heat still, so am unsure of reducing the size again and upping the pressure to keep the gas volume but increased speed?
So not sure if I said about this in the video but the plan is to make different flares when my lathe is running again. Out of stainless and chuckyer.
Also using the fire brick to create part if the flare should also help. If my research holds up. Lol
I will keep people posted.
Muito bacana o funcionamento
Excelente show parabéns 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
could you make a full parts list i couldnt find all the parts
I have the base of the torch just not the disk that spins for the air flow where can I buy that ?
Did you get a gauge for the tank yet, I’m really curious as to your psi?
Where can I find the bulkhead fitting
Hey Daniel, thanks for the info about the hydraulic bolt head earlier being 1/2 inch. i have almost finished my burners now. as per an old conversation about alec Steele in the comments.. consider this- i have seen alec steeles videos.. in his old ones he was like a normal person. he added sensationalism.. people who probably will never pick up a hammer may watch them. your videos are solid. you play to the people intent on working at blacksmithing and you do it bloody well. if you wish to sensationalise and get a higher subscription then think Bruce Forsythe, add a bit of glamour. start making throwing axes with gold inlay. to me thats just playing to the crowd.. i have watched plenty of you both, but i come to your channel to learn and his for light entertainment.
I'm trying to find the bulkhead you mentioned. Found plenty of types however the sites don't give me the over all length. Was wondering if you can direct me to a site that sells exactly what you used. I would be grateful
Wow, nice job. That thing is powerful.From watching other sites on the same subject - flux drippings begin eating the floor of the firebox from the git-go. A hard ceramic fire brick floor would seem like a good idea.Easy to pop out and replace when it gets eaten away.
Hi, do you think this burner would get steel up to welding temps at 6000 feet?
Great video. But those parts are for BSP pipe sizes. Do you have any information on similar venturi adapters that fit US NPT pipe sizes?
The parts only come in BSP i'm very sorry. How ever the internet can provide if you look.
The thumb wheel,, a 2in hole saw + a 5/16 bit chucked in a drill press. Get some 1/4 or 3/8 aluminium plate.. drill out a 2 in slug,,tap the hole.....presto...a perfect fit
Good design and we'll explained , thanks
Hi, I received a day in a forge for a birthday present recently. I enjoyed it tremendously and I am thinking of setting up a small hobby forge at home but don’t know where to start. I have been look8ng for used tools and a moderate size anvil but don’t know what I should expect to pay. Any advice on where to find the tools and anvil and what I should expect to pay? Cheers.
@Daniel Moss - Can you link me to the "male 1.1/4inch to female 1inch adapter.
1/4inch ball valve." on the jtm plumbing site? Gonna build a couple of these sod thanks very much for your hard work making this video
Hey dan I used a pizza oven brick as the base of my gas forge, they are a lot harder than the k26 insulation bricks and only half the thickness, so had to do a bit of cutting to make it fit but it seems to be holding up quite well
Do you sell these forge burners complete in a kit?
If i am going to buy a M8 thread cutter, what pitch would i require to fit the mig tip? would 1.25mm be okay?
Great video. Will be useful for my own gas forge. Thanks
I'm in the states and i am having trouble finding the 1/4 bspp hydraulic bulkhead fitting extra long. does anyone have a link where i can order it?
I have some.
Hi Daniel Great Video,
Hey what length is the Bulkhead fitting and did you find a link online
Hey man, a little easier to find would be a 1/4 lamp nipple which come as a 1/4x27npt they are also considerably cheaper than a bulkhead.
Do you think that a forge burner can be applied to a brick pizza oven. I’m trying to enjoy eating my pizza and smell less like a fireman.
Try and tell me
Hello I'm from Russia. What is the diameter of the jet? What is the pressure at the output of the gearbox? Thanks😁
Try Gameco Artisan supplies for your burner parts
Very good job mate.
Very nice build! I am wondering what PSI range you typically use. I have built a similar burner and need to get a pressure regulator. Thanks for sharing!
@Daniel Moss Now that you've used this, do you really feel the need for the venturi air adjustment washers? What's the flame like with a proper regulator and nothing in the path of the intake (or washer adjust wide open)? I've made a version of this with no adjustment and it seems to be fine. I REALLY like this pre-built venturi though. Just ordered one off Amazon!
You are very good. Great works.
What is the gas consumption of such a burner?
Hi Daniel, a 1/4 inch hydraulic bolt is 6.25mm. if the mig tip is 8mm , then how can i drill a 7mm hole for tapping into a 6.25mm bolt? i'm really confused- i can see it works.. where am i going wrong?
Took me a second to work out what you was going on about lol. 1/4 inch is the hole diameter not the total diameter of the fitting. I believe the fitting is about 1/2" or 12-13mms
I like the simplicity of your burner design the most, are you still offering the venturi and gas jet set up? Have you thought of selling the venturi/jet/airflow washer set up pre-made? Cheers.
What part of UK will your shop be for courses? I have now given up several hobbies and interested in starting something creative.
I'm in Herefordshire
La medida del agujero de la válvula cuál es?
To get better control the flame you need to have a 60 degree taper on your flare. Its all to do with flame front and gas pressure. As you turn the gas down the gas flow cannot support such a large flame front, by having a taper the flame front is able to move back down the taper thus giving you grater control.
12 degree taper on the flare, Sir. 60 is waaay too extreme an angle. (12 degrees = 1" to 2" over 1foot.) That's your angle for the burner flare -- my experience -- ymmv...
Hi Daniel, just getting the stuff ready for making two of these, got some 12 mm brass rod and threaded 1/4" for 60mm still got to drill 17/64 and thread M8, how long is your hydraulic bulkhead fitting, also what size hole is in your mig tip??
Revendo o vídeo vi com mais detalhes o quanto ficou perfeito
Magnífico lindo a chama ficou bem uniforme parabéns 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Posta o funcionamento dele na forja 👍
Could you list the parts please
This was good Dan, the burner looked good, the Gameco burners have a threaded reducer on the end, I have the small burner but intend getting the bigger one.
Cool
what size off mig tip are you useing? 0.8, 1, or 1.2mm fed up off not being able to light my forge up as there seems to be a big burny thing in the sky just now that makes everyone put there washing out!! so have to make a gas one as i've got jobs to do, never realy use one so this should be fun lol apart from a 60mm gas burner and some fire bricks did work sort off lol
@@danielmoss2089 oh right thank you, didn't click on the link, handy i use 0.8mm tips on my mig so might as well use the same ones and make them fit the burner.
What MIG tip do I need to buy? If you gave a link to this, I would be grateful, thanks
i have a second question about bulkhead, how long it is ?
I'm looking to build a gas forge. Are you still offering the Venturi and gas jet set up?
Great video. I do have a bit of advice and a question about gas forges. Advice first, take the weight off the bricks on the roof. My forge has a bit of pipe and a thumb screw to hold the burner but as the forge heats and cools the top bricks under there own weight have cracked, they haven't fallen in yet but will let extra heat escape. (Question) I have built my burner from a solid billet of steel but didn't ream the bore (still has drill scratches in it.) The blue cone in the flame seems to move and osalate, does your burner cone move? Sorry for the long massage.
I ordered some venturi backs from Alibaba but I can't find the threaded tube to put through. Can you help with a supplier please Dan?
Check this out
ruclips.net/user/edit?ar=2&o=U&video_id=PCxvGr3K0W8
Get that threaded tube from - ebay - search for 8BPX0404 1/4" X 1/4" BSPP MALE EXTENDED BULKHEAD 60 DEGREE CONE C/W LOCKNUT
I'm definitely going to be building one of these. Thanks for the info.
good demo Dan.... what was that black pipe called again??????
It's a nipple and it's 1inch dia and 8inchs lol. So an 8inch black nipple.
May be helping a friend build his forge soon. This comes in handy! Thanks
Come fare per acquistare quel prodotto
Thanks Daniel. As a novice whos come from the other side (gas and am building solid fuel forge) how does the 2 min heat time compare to the coal forge?
Also for anyone whos willing and cant get the venturi you can get pipe adaptors that go from 1" to 1 1/2 or there abouts and they can act as your venturi. I welded a bit of metal that is quite similar to the shown venturi on the back of it.
Two minutes is fast, dude. ;-) The problem with using reducers (1" to 1.25" to 1.5", etc.) is the 'steps' -- the hard steps inside disrupt the air/gas flow. A smoothly tapering venturi is waaaay better -- both at the air intake / cooler end where the gas line connects and also at the burner 'flare' end. Someone said earlier that you need a 60 degree taper on the burner. I've always heard 12 degrees, which is far less of an angle -- i.e., over 1 foot a 1" pipe would taper to 2" -- that's your burner flare angle. I've done it -- works great and helps you still get a nice flame at lower gas pressures.
Try 1 1/4” to 1” 6000lbs reducer for the flare
I just spotted your YT page and that you are offering some venturis + a few other bits, do you have a price and time scale yet? I would be wanting 2 for my new forge I am making (And these would save me time making them)
Wow...... Right.s.....Very good.
Very cool Dan! Thank you!
What was the opening on the welding tip you used for your jet nozzle?
If you said I’m not catching it.
Thank you, nice build.
0.8 there's a link in the description for the right ones.
I believe the fractional conversion is the 0.030 size tip in the US
Good information as always. Loved the video.
Have you looked into making a ribbon burner? "supposed" to be more fuel efficient......
Looking
Anyone have any luck finding the bolkhead fitting?
Would you be willing to sell 2 of them I’m looking to upgrade my forge
Send me an email
industrialartstudios@gmail.com
Nice, Daniel!
I'm having a hard time finding the extra long 1/4 inch bulkhead fitting. Do you have any links for that? Thanks
I was having the same issue. I think I will be selling them as I can't guarantee the link will be right.
@@danielmoss2089 well I am definitely interested if you do. Please let me know or post something if you end up deciding to. Thanks
@@danielmoss2089 I know I commented my interest before if you are able to source all the parts in bulk and resell the individual parts either singularly or a a D.I.Y kit. . . If there are any developments I would be really grateful if I was able to be kept in the loop and the option to get in on this if and when they become available. Cheers Dan. Keep up the cracking job you been doing and love the fact you been helping at your local college and are now talking about running a class. Great to See someone wanting to pass on and give back from early in your career. Many people our there are to preoccupied building a business and bank balance to do what you are that is until they are looking for something new to do after retiring to keep busy. Any knowledge given back to students of the craft is great, no matter the teachers age or motivation but I think you are a good role model and inspiration to do that all on top of building a business. Throw on top running a RUclips channel providing good content and videography skills. . . . Bloody Good Show there . . . . Dan the Blacksmithin Man !!!
If you use tape for the threads make sure that they're are yellow type which is specifically for gas
Thank you noted and will pass that on dude.
They also make a tube of sealant goop that works even better than the tape. It is more durable than the tape.
Hi, have you got a link for the bulkhead fitting you used? Awesome work mate!
I've been looking too but i can only find 48mm long ones which are too small. not sure how to bypass this problem if i can't get one.
can you tell me,what does it mean to 持正法
Can I ask why you need to know?
@@danielmoss2089 OK ,i am sorry
Hi Daniel! Awesome video. I've just received my Venturi from China, want to get the rest of the parts. Could you tell me how long is that bulk head fitting of yours? Trying to find something locally. Thanks!
One side is the standard length and the other is 75mm long. I have some mods for these burner coming soon and I'll tie done the bulkhead fittings.
@@danielmoss2089 Thanks for the really fast answer, Daniel. I'm having a hard time finding such a long fitting. Seems like they're hard to come by here in Poland. I was thinking maybe to use a steel pipe and make an external and internal thread but then the cost of the whole project will go up significantly.
@@danielmoss2089 The longest ones I've found online are only 45 mm long on one end :(
@@danielmoss2089 Hi Daniel! I think I might have found a proper bulkhead fitting here in Poland. If you have some time could you take a look at it? www.wszystkodlarolnictwa.pl/mini%20srebrny/shop/6624-93943-0-VNBSE04-Zlaczka-grodziowa-MM-dluga-14-BSP--14x14--14x14.html
The longer thread is 45.5 mm long, it's manufactured by Burnett & Hillman. I've sent them an e-mail asking what's the overall length of the fitting, I guess it'll be around 60 mm or even more. Will that be enough?
Anyone know where to get the bulkhead fittings? I found some on Amazon but I dont know how long they are. They don't look quite long enough
Try a hydraulic shop, i work replacing hydrauloc hoses on machine i have these in my van, there called extended bulkhead fittings
Go round with a single burner. More efficient burn. Thanks for all the burner parts.
I've made this to your specs and when I light it the flame is bright yellow, I can wind the washer all the shut and back open and the flame does not change. Still yellow. Anyone got any ideas?
Send me an email with pictures of your set up and I'll see if I can help. If you copied this exactly then you should have the same results as me. You don't need the second flair to get a blue flame just a tube.
@@danielmoss2089 thank you very much, ive got a feeling I've screwed the fitting too far in, the mig tip looks to be a lot further inside than shown in your video. Il try and fiddle with it tomorrow and will let you know! Thanks for the quick reply!
@@danielmoss2089 I moved the mig tip and got a much better flame, it's not blue flame all the way but it's a massive improvement
@@rosstimmins76 I had to modify my tip to get the best results.
@@danielmoss2089 I have drilled it out and that seemed to help, thanks mate
Great video btw
in a foundry how hot will it get?
Will what get the burner? Or how hot with the Forge get?
@@danielmoss2089 If i would Put it in a melting foundry. How hot will it get. So which Metal can it melt
So do you guys sell them to australia?
? Not sure what your asking dude?
I do nit sell them sorry. I'm not sure how is currently selling them but it was Sam Folwor. Maybe check him out and see what e say?
@@danielmoss2089 thanks for putting me in the right direction.
Where is your parts list
Nice job sir
The gas forge i build, i made from scrap steel, a top plate (4mm) thick, the end of the burner i welded in that top top plate so i have no leaks and its not wobley. On Every Side 90 degre bends so its slides over the bottembox, also scrap. On the left and right of that top plate i drilled and tapped 2 holes with thread so i could remove the top plate with burner and change the bricks. The box is the same sizes as the bricks i can get in or near my hometown,
Front and back its open so i can close it up with bricks or have a gap for bigger stuff to pass treu. Piece of angle iron welded to the box.
For a first forge is runs good but i found out its handy to have a support for you work, so i welded 2 pieces of pipe on the sides and a other piece slides in and out the support the workpiece. On left en right welded a handle so its easy to lift.
Check Every time before forging with soap if you have leaks, and my regulator runs fine with 4 of 5 bar of pressure. Biggest propane tank is a must (the small one freeses up) pressure drops)
when the forge is on temp. I dial the pressure down because forging on propane and making hours its pretty expencive.
Build a coal forge one year later and i dont use the propaneforge much anymore.
Thanks dan, the hammer is one Nice tool to have and it feels like a piece of my body. Awesome!
bom dia, belo trabalho parabens
Fire bricks break down and crumble fast due to the extreme thermal cycling of gas forges. They're cheap-ish, but you'll spend more in the long run than you would just making a proper ceramic fiber insulated / satanite and ITC 100 coated forge in the first place. And yes -- go ribbon burners! Not cheap, but long-run cheaper and quieter. It's all about how much you'll actually use it all... if you're really into it, go deep. ;-)
Nice looking burner. That was going to be my question of what pressure you're running your gas at. I might have to hit you up for a couple hats I didn't know you had those. I'll get a hold of you later. 👍👍⚒on!!!!
Also...for a real cheap ‘forge’...( as I’m sure you know) an old propane gas bottle with the ends cut off and lined with ceramic blanket works a treat! ...not pretty but does the job...cost me £23👍🏼 😎
Just remember to line your ceramic blanket with castable refractory material. The fibres in those blankets can be quite bad for you (it's not asbestos, but the effects are similar).
@@dadegroot Silicosis is name of the disease if I remember right. Similar to Abestosis in the damage it causes to the lungs. The damage from exposure to the fibres is cumulative but as far as I know it requires a fair amount of exposure to cause real health issues. Basically don't snort the stuff :)
Having built a 'cheap' propane bottle forge, I can tell you -- they're not cheap! By the time you're finished getting the ceramic blanket insulation ($50-$70), the rigidizer (~$20), the Satanite (cement-like liner that goes over the rigidized ceramic blanket insulation) - $15 - and the ITC 100 (~$30) for the final IR reflective finish on the inside of the forge, plus a good kiln shelf for the bottom ($20), if you use one of those -- or a castable refractory liner -- something flux-resistant, as flux eats ceramic blanket -- Never mind building your burner(s) for at least $50 each and a 0-30lb pressure gauge for your propane source ($25), you're well up around $200 USD or more. You may be able to re-use some of that on your next one, but still -- they ain't cheap. That said, a properly made LP forge will be hotter and longer-lasting by far than anything made of fire bricks. You see a lot of kilns made of fire brick because they heat up slowly to non-crazy temps, stay hot a long time and cool down slowly. Gas forges heat up fast to crazy high temps, then cool down fast and the thermal cycling is too much for the bricks -- they'll be a pile of rubble in no time. You may get more life out of them by lining the forge with a hi-temp cement like Satanite, but at that point, just build a ceramic blanket type. And yes -- everyone saying ribbon burners are a vast improvement are correct -- wider distribution of better-mixed, more complete-burning gas/air that runs quieter and at lower pressure for more heat, so you save $$ on gas and much quieter. That said -- again, not cheap. If you can weld and figure out the mix for the refractory, the vids on DIY are excellent. GO for it.
Dan have a look at amal burners I've got one that are brilliant only £40 and in UK😀
I will do your the second person to say that. Interesting stuff.
Sorry but I have to correct you on the drill size for the M8 threads that would be a 6.8mm hole
I believe the imperial size is close to the drill size than a custom 6.75mm drill bit. If you look on a drilling index you see it say 6.75mm which is hard to find and very expensive. How ever the imperial is required as it is closer to the right size.
Also the pitch of the thread on M8 standerd tap is 1.25mm.
@@danielmoss2089 yes that is what I was referring to and you get the pilot hole diameter by subtracting the pitch (1.25mm) from the outer diameter (8mm) and that is rounded up to 6.8.
Also the drill bits I work with on a day to day basis get bigger increments of 0.1mm and those are not custom made.
(Also cost about 50-80 cents a bit)
Why don't you look on line and fine the drilling sizes you will be surprised. Also I was referring to 0.01mm increments being expensive and hard to find. Not 0.1 as the machining size should be 6.75mm.
@@danielmoss2089 point is should be. I work as a maschineist and M8 is always drilled at 6,8mm that 0,05mm in hole size does not make much of a difference.
And in your video you said that M8 should be drilled 7,25mm
Look at a forced air burner. It will cut your gas consumption. You run about 5 psi on an atmospheric burner about 1 psi on forced air.
Looking thanks dude
@@danielmoss2089 While you're out there I'd also look up 'ribbon burners'. One of those in conjunction with forced air might prove interesting mate. If I was building a gasser of my own I'd definitely try making one.
There are a number of reasons to use forced air (and I do), but it doesn't cut your gas consumption. Gas consumption is all about how hot you want to get your forge, heat loss of the forge, etc. PSI numbers are completely useless without knowing the characteristics of the orifice and dimensions of the tube.
I really like this burner design. It's very easy to control your air/fuel mixture, so you can crank up the gas if you want to forge weld, or turn it down for heat treating. In fact, I ordered 2 of those venturi heads before the video finished. What I really need is a great design for a used oil forge burner, because I can get that for free.
I do believe this runs better than alec steels version
Sure wish you had done this video a year ago. Bought two at $140 apiece. Live and learn.
Sorry can you sned them back lol
@@danielmoss2089 hell know lol I love my burners. But I'm building three more forges, the burners will be a lot cheaper. Thanks for the great info.
US Amazon doesn't even have a listing for the parts.
Looking into it.
@@danielmoss2089 Bob from b&b forge found them lol. I'm internet illiterate just bought 4.
Vorrei aquistare quel cannello,complimenti ottimi
Cool👍👍👍
Great vid mate but you can't beat the smell of a coal forge even though it is slowly killing me 😲
I know smells amazing. Love the smell of coke in the morning.