These are literally the nicest people in the world. I called them with questions (i didn't buy anything), and not only did I get awesome advice from 3 different guys; I got encouragement to stick with my trad bow. They were genuinely excited about me teaching myself instinctive archery. Unrealistic is where they set the bar. And thank y'all so much
Thank you for your kind words. We want people to enjoy archery any way they can. Glad we were able to help with some of your questions, and we are always here if you run into any more. Best of luck with your training on instinctive archery!
I drove 90 minutes to get a custom bow from Three Rivers. I have never regretted it. They went out of there way and spend nearly 90 minutes with me finishing the setup. They are first class and highly recommended.
I must have watched a dozen or so videos on how to set up nocking points on my recurve bow and this video is hands down the easiest to understand and use to make that happen. Thanks so much for making this process easy to understand and set up.
Just purchased an edge from 3rivers. I spent the extra $16 to have the bow set up with a nocking point, the rest and finger savers that I bought for it. Amazing package. Thank you.
Thanks for a very informative and helpful video! I have to replace my bowstring after 2 years. Unfortunately the string I ordered did not have a knocking point. So I had to order a knocking point kit too. Thankfully I found an affordable one and it had all the tools you mentioned including the knocking points themselves. I might do the double knocking point method that you suggested too.
@@timothymattson3883 ¾ above center, not above the ⅝ above center for split finger. Also, something I didn’t understand before, “center” is the bottom edge of the square arm. I’ve been measuring from the mid-point of the square arm.
I caughy that too, not to nitpick their video... but, for my knowledge, is it 3/4" for 3 under and is that measured from center of his riser? or 3/4" from the ledge?
Most nocking tools have the proper edge to get into the notch of a string nock to open it back up. You are trying to pry open the edges to allow the string to slide out. Sometimes it is prying it slightly, then slide the nock so it is off the serving arrow and it will come off on by the string material as it is thinner than the served area.
I normally put the bottom on the nocking point at the 5/8" mark, but if I'm shooting skinny shafts (9/32") then I'll split the nocking point on the mark. As the shaft sits lower on the shelf than a 5/16" or 11/32" shaft.
The best option is with a nocking tool that has the removal option. It is a small wedge that pulls the nock ends apart to be able to slide it up/down or off.
Hi! Ok so, I have decided to go with plastic fletches on my traditional recurve and for that, shooting off the shelf is not going to work. Would I use the same method to set up my nockingpoint if I am using a flipper rest? I decided on the flipper rest because my bow of course has no pre-drilled holes to mount anything so I stuck the flipper rest on with an adhesive back, got it all leveled and such and now it's time to put the nockingpoint on. Because the rest puts the arrow above the shelf, I am not sure if I would go 5/8ths or if that would be too high. My thought process is it would be the same as if I am shooting off the shelf but then again, it places the nocking point above the nautral curve of the bow so I'm really not sure at this point, maybe I'm just over thinking it?
Yes, you would use the same steps as in the video, just using the "shelf" of the flipper rest as the point to lay the t-square across. Try to keep the flipper rest close to the actual shelf, but shouldn't be much issue with how the bow shoots being higher than the shelf.
Once the nock is on, you have to keep track what is the bottom of the string right? Because if you take the string of and put it back on the wrong way the nock is in a diffrerent place?
Many thanks from this beginner. So if my brace height on a brand new bow is 9 1/2" how can this be adjusted? 70" bow with the string that came with the kit. Many thanks.
If it is a Flemish twist string you can remove some twist (if it has plenty in it). Though, being a new bow, you can string it and let it stretch the string. On new strings they will need to "stretch in" and that could drop the brace height to where you want it to be. Or at least closer.
Thank you for the easy explanation video. I had my knock fly off of my practice bow and just got the tools to do this. Is it normal to knock above arrow? I had my bows done at 3 rivers and thought I was told to set arrow above knock. At any rate great video.
For the crimp on nock? It should fit flush so no edge sticks out, but I normally aim to the the crimped stop to be facing the archer. I have not tested too much though to say one way is better than another. If getting wear and tear on your glove/tab or scratching your face at anchor point, I'd suggest trying a different size crimp on nock to get it to be as seamless as you can.
Do you mean like these: www.3riversarchery.com/no-glov-finger-savers.html If so, then you do not need the nock point, but the finger savers can slide on the string, so the nock point is nice to have as a consistent point on the string.
You would install the rest first, then use a T-square to know where it contacts the string from there to set. See our bow square here: www.3riversarchery.com/3rivers-archery-bow-square.html
Is there any practical disadvantage to a well set up double nocking point? The idea appeals to me as a new archer but I just wonder if there is a reason most experienced archer's use a single string nock?
Only disadvantage would be with using two brass nocking points, as it adds a additional wearing point for your glove/tab. If you use tie-on nocking points then dual nock points would be just fine.
My centre doesn't come level with the nock point like this one and I have taken all the twists out my bowstring and my brace height isn't 7.5 inch like my bow page shows
If you could send us an email, or give us a call during business hours, we need more information (or a picture) to better understand the issue and how to help.
You would rest it on whatever the arrow will be resting on. So if you change arrow rests, or as a rest wears down, it is best to check your nock point set to be sure it is where you want to be.
I have a question about brace height. I have a brand new recurve bow. The brace height isn't anywhere near 8 inches. It is more like 4 and a half inches. It is not a takedown bow. Just a simple recurve. Is the string lenght wrong? Is it normal for this bow to be where it is? And how does that change the nocking point?
It does sound like it has too long of a string on it. Is the string four inches less than the bow length? This sounds like a popular issue where the string is matched to the bow AMO length, where it needs to be actual length of four inches less than bow length. So a 64" AMO bow length (written on the bow) normally needs a 60" actual length bow string.
@@3RiversArchery Thanks for the response. I figured out the problem though. I needed to adjust the string, which I didn't know you could do. Just twist it a few turns, and a little makes a big difference. I now have it at 71/2 inches, which is right in the middle of spec. Made a huge difference. These videos are priceless. Thanks for putting them up. You can learn anything on you tube these days. I even learned how to repair a 1939 Lester piano my brother gave me.
Nice video...I'm a new guy that doesn't shoot, but all 3 of my young kids do and I imagine doing a lot of maintenance for them. My question is, why are you choosing the measurement of 5/8s and 1/2 for nock placement? What are those numbers compensating for? Thanks again
The fingers on the string, normally three, is what you are compensating for. If you have a release (like with a compound), you would be set to zero as even pressure.
If you cannot get the D-loop out of they way for mounting the string nock, then it must be removed as the nocking point is needed before the D-loop can be accurately set.
I'm setting a dang near 75 year old Bearcat recurve up for bow fishing. Should I make the nock point high for shooting in the water since the tip of the arrow will naturally want to come up as soon as it hits water?
I have not had trouble with the arrow deflecting on impact with the water. It is traveling slow enough and enough mass that you should not have to change the nock point for this. Aim differently with the light refraction yes, but not the arrow veering off.
A set of nocking pliers is the best way to remove a nock. www.3riversarchery.com/saunders-nok-set-nock-pliers.html You can use a set like these to wedge into the crimped area to loosen it enough to move on the string, or to remove completely.
I dont understand ? you said 5/8" for split so you go 5/8" up. but then you say go up another 1/8" which would be 3/4" but then say its a 1/2" above center? So where are we neasurig center from?
Im confused. You said for split finger you go 5/8" above rest. Then you said for 3 finger under you go 1/8" more to 1/2". If you went 1/8" beyond 5/8" that would be 3/4", not 1/2". What am I missing?
I miss spoke in the video. Basically, jus the nock height higher than what you would do for split finger shooting, so 3/4" would be more like it. Though don't hesitate to change it if you see the nock kicking up/down.
If I were to install a metal d loop, would I place the bottom of the d loop with the bottom of the arrow so the arrow sits level? Since the metal d loop clamps onto the string there's no point of a nock correct? I'm very new to archery so any advice or opinions is much appreciated.
@@3RiversArchery I did give it a try! It worked, but I had to move the nock a couple of times. Not perfect, but a working solution none the less. Really enjoying your channel!
Not at all. Well, meaning it doesn't hurt it taking it off. Only thing to watch for is the string untwisting (if a Flemish twist style). It would not be a lot though, and you could use a paperclip to connect the end loops if worried.
It would been much easier to show how and where to place the nock measurement position with a good close-up shot instead of telling for explanation. But there are other videos that show better close-up views for better understanding. Assumption is the "mother of all mistakes".
Sir, no offense but you talk and teach as if to someone who already knows what you're doing. For example, brace height... why mention it if you can't fix it? Where does the open end of the nock face? How do you know if you're pinching the string? Different teeth of your pliers? You never talked about pliers. And seriously? 1, 2, 3... that's where you want your nock.... as if everyone has the same tool you do. Mine is in 1/16.... Your camera view is too far away to see what you're counting. I hear you are nice but this video could use more explanations. Apologies.
Thank you for the suggestions, which these are all great points. If it was a series of videos, which we may do in the future, we can address all the fine detail points like you have listed here. For keeping the video to reasonable lengths, as the longer they are the less viewers that watch to the end, we organized this video as we did. We will see about having more videos made in the future that get into questions you asked.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
These are literally the nicest people in the world. I called them with questions (i didn't buy anything), and not only did I get awesome advice from 3 different guys; I got encouragement to stick with my trad bow. They were genuinely excited about me teaching myself instinctive archery. Unrealistic is where they set the bar. And thank y'all so much
Thank you for your kind words. We want people to enjoy archery any way they can. Glad we were able to help with some of your questions, and we are always here if you run into any more. Best of luck with your training on instinctive archery!
🔥🔥
I agree 100%. Excellent people to deal with.
The overhead cam makes everything so clear. This is the best video I've seen on setting the bow string nock.
I drove 90 minutes to get a custom bow from Three Rivers. I have never regretted it. They went out of there way and spend nearly 90 minutes with me finishing the setup. They are first class and highly recommended.
Very helpful video, I inherited a bunch of archery items and am enjoying learning about and using all of it. Thanks again, JGS
I must have watched a dozen or so videos on how to set up nocking points on my recurve bow and this video is hands down the easiest to understand and use to make that happen. Thanks so much for making this process easy to understand and set up.
I’ve watched two of your videos so far, and I really like that they are very clear, and make it easy to understand the basics.
Finally someone who specifically states this it the top point and the arrow goes underneath. Only way to be better would be metric :-)
Most T-squares will come in both standard and metric
Just purchased an edge from 3rivers. I spent the extra $16 to have the bow set up with a nocking point, the rest and finger savers that I bought for it. Amazing package. Thank you.
Thanks for a very informative and helpful video! I have to replace my bowstring after 2 years. Unfortunately the string I ordered did not have a knocking point. So I had to order a knocking point kit too. Thankfully I found an affordable one and it had all the tools you mentioned including the knocking points themselves. I might do the double knocking point method that you suggested too.
Great video Jonathon. Does that extra 1/8" for 3 under not bring your nock point to 6/8" i.e. (3/4") instead of a 1/2" as you mentioned?
You are correct. I went the wrong way in my head. Should be 3/4" above center for 3-under shooting.
@@3RiversArchery Wow, 3/4 above fr split, wow.
Thanks for asking @Eoghan Reynolds. I had the same question in mind and had to replay the vid a few times to make sure. :)
@@timothymattson3883 no, for 3 under
@@timothymattson3883 ¾ above center, not above the ⅝ above center for split finger. Also, something I didn’t understand before, “center” is the bottom edge of the square arm. I’ve been measuring from the mid-point of the square arm.
When you talk about 3 under, you mistakenly say “half inch” instead of 3/4. It’s 1/8 above 5/8 which would be 6/8.
I caughy that too, not to nitpick their video... but, for my knowledge, is it 3/4" for 3 under and is that measured from center of his riser? or 3/4" from the ledge?
Marvelous, good info, thanks for sharing
Loving theses videos, keep them coming!
Thanks! Will do!
Great how-to, Thank you.
I think you might need to remake this. A few questions and issues
Alright, what are your questions and issues that we can address?
Easy ! Thank you I am a beginner pretty smart for shooting arrows! 👍
Very good. Informative video. Thank you.
Can you describe how best to remove a nocking point without damaging the fibers?
Most nocking tools have the proper edge to get into the notch of a string nock to open it back up. You are trying to pry open the edges to allow the string to slide out. Sometimes it is prying it slightly, then slide the nock so it is off the serving arrow and it will come off on by the string material as it is thinner than the served area.
This video helped me a lot. Thank you. 👍👍👍
Does the nock sit above the 5/8" mark, or just under that point?
Since the nock is 1/8" tall, that will make it high or low...
I normally put the bottom on the nocking point at the 5/8" mark, but if I'm shooting skinny shafts (9/32") then I'll split the nocking point on the mark. As the shaft sits lower on the shelf than a 5/16" or 11/32" shaft.
Should I tune the brace height first before setting the nock point? Seems if I set the nock first then the nock will move after adjusting brace height
It would be best to tune the brace height before final tuning the nock point, as the nock will move as the brace height changes.
Great, now I'd like to add a fixed crawl nock point. Also, how do you remove a nock point?
The best option is with a nocking tool that has the removal option. It is a small wedge that pulls the nock ends apart to be able to slide it up/down or off.
Hi! Ok so, I have decided to go with plastic fletches on my traditional recurve and for that, shooting off the shelf is not going to work. Would I use the same method to set up my nockingpoint if I am using a flipper rest? I decided on the flipper rest because my bow of course has no pre-drilled holes to mount anything so I stuck the flipper rest on with an adhesive back, got it all leveled and such and now it's time to put the nockingpoint on. Because the rest puts the arrow above the shelf, I am not sure if I would go 5/8ths or if that would be too high. My thought process is it would be the same as if I am shooting off the shelf but then again, it places the nocking point above the nautral curve of the bow so I'm really not sure at this point, maybe I'm just over thinking it?
Yes, you would use the same steps as in the video, just using the "shelf" of the flipper rest as the point to lay the t-square across. Try to keep the flipper rest close to the actual shelf, but shouldn't be much issue with how the bow shoots being higher than the shelf.
Thank you very much for the quick response!
Once the nock is on, you have to keep track what is the bottom of the string right? Because if you take the string of and put it back on the wrong way the nock is in a diffrerent place?
Correct, the string will have a top and bottom. The nock point sits higher on the serving section, so that helps make it easier to identify as well.
Many thanks from this beginner. So if my brace height on a brand new bow is 9 1/2" how can this be adjusted? 70" bow with the string that came with the kit. Many thanks.
If it is a Flemish twist string you can remove some twist (if it has plenty in it). Though, being a new bow, you can string it and let it stretch the string. On new strings they will need to "stretch in" and that could drop the brace height to where you want it to be. Or at least closer.
Thank you for the easy explanation video. I had my knock fly off of my practice bow and just got the tools to do this. Is it normal to knock above arrow? I had my bows done at 3 rivers and thought I was told to set arrow above knock. At any rate great video.
The arrow nock normally sit underneath the string nock.
Is there any suggested oreientation to set your nock opening such as 12 o clock or 3 o clock?
For the crimp on nock? It should fit flush so no edge sticks out, but I normally aim to the the crimped stop to be facing the archer. I have not tested too much though to say one way is better than another. If getting wear and tear on your glove/tab or scratching your face at anchor point, I'd suggest trying a different size crimp on nock to get it to be as seamless as you can.
If I use the rubber finger guards on the string instead of a tab or glove, is a nock still necessary?
Do you mean like these: www.3riversarchery.com/no-glov-finger-savers.html If so, then you do not need the nock point, but the finger savers can slide on the string, so the nock point is nice to have as a consistent point on the string.
I am going to use a Brush Fire rest from Cajun Archery. How do I measure for correct nocking point? My Bow is a 64" Spyder XL.
You would install the rest first, then use a T-square to know where it contacts the string from there to set. See our bow square here: www.3riversarchery.com/3rivers-archery-bow-square.html
Thanks for sharing
Is there any practical disadvantage to a well set up double nocking point? The idea appeals to me as a new archer but I just wonder if there is a reason most experienced archer's use a single string nock?
Only disadvantage would be with using two brass nocking points, as it adds a additional wearing point for your glove/tab. If you use tie-on nocking points then dual nock points would be just fine.
Watch "The Push" archery video on "Fixed Crawl". They recommend two nocks!
I've been an archer all my life, and have always used 2 nock points.
How is adding 1/8 to 5/8 make it half an inch?!!
I misspoke during the filming.
My centre doesn't come level with the nock point like this one and I have taken all the twists out my bowstring and my brace height isn't 7.5 inch like my bow page shows
If you could send us an email, or give us a call during business hours, we need more information (or a picture) to better understand the issue and how to help.
@@3RiversArchery doesn't matter now I looked at some other videos and found my issue thank you very much
When installing the nocking point does the bow square rest exactly on the arrow shelf or does it rest on the top of the "rug" part of the arrow rest?
You would rest it on whatever the arrow will be resting on. So if you change arrow rests, or as a rest wears down, it is best to check your nock point set to be sure it is where you want to be.
I have a question about brace height. I have a brand new recurve bow. The brace height isn't anywhere near 8 inches. It is more like 4 and a half inches. It is not a takedown bow. Just a simple recurve. Is the string lenght wrong? Is it normal for this bow to be where it is? And how does that change the nocking point?
It does sound like it has too long of a string on it. Is the string four inches less than the bow length? This sounds like a popular issue where the string is matched to the bow AMO length, where it needs to be actual length of four inches less than bow length. So a 64" AMO bow length (written on the bow) normally needs a 60" actual length bow string.
@@3RiversArchery Thanks for the response. I figured out the problem though. I needed to adjust the string, which I didn't know you could do. Just twist it a few turns, and a little makes a big difference. I now have it at 71/2 inches, which is right in the middle of spec. Made a huge difference.
These videos are priceless. Thanks for putting them up. You can learn anything on you tube these days. I even learned how to repair a 1939 Lester piano my brother gave me.
Nice video...I'm a new guy that doesn't shoot, but all 3 of my young kids do and I imagine doing a lot of maintenance for them. My question is, why are you choosing the measurement of 5/8s and 1/2 for nock placement? What are those numbers compensating for? Thanks again
The fingers on the string, normally three, is what you are compensating for. If you have a release (like with a compound), you would be set to zero as even pressure.
Need closeups of knocking, not top of your head. But still helpful.
how to nock with d loop in place?
If you cannot get the D-loop out of they way for mounting the string nock, then it must be removed as the nocking point is needed before the D-loop can be accurately set.
I'm setting a dang near 75 year old Bearcat recurve up for bow fishing. Should I make the nock point high for shooting in the water since the tip of the arrow will naturally want to come up as soon as it hits water?
I have not had trouble with the arrow deflecting on impact with the water. It is traveling slow enough and enough mass that you should not have to change the nock point for this. Aim differently with the light refraction yes, but not the arrow veering off.
@@3RiversArchery fair enough. I'll give it a shot. Really appreciate you getting back to me
How do I “replace” a knocking point? How do I take off the ones on it now? Thank you!!
A set of nocking pliers is the best way to remove a nock. www.3riversarchery.com/saunders-nok-set-nock-pliers.html You can use a set like these to wedge into the crimped area to loosen it enough to move on the string, or to remove completely.
'Tie on' nocking point coming next?
Not next, but it is on the list. ;)
I dont understand ? you said 5/8" for split so you go 5/8" up. but then you say go up another 1/8" which would be 3/4" but then say its a 1/2" above center? So where are we neasurig center from?
My apologies, I misspoke during the filming. It would be 3/4" height.
Good info
Im confused. You said for split finger you go 5/8" above rest. Then you said for 3 finger under you go 1/8" more to 1/2".
If you went 1/8" beyond 5/8" that would be 3/4", not 1/2".
What am I missing?
I miss spoke in the video. Basically, jus the nock height higher than what you would do for split finger shooting, so 3/4" would be more like it. Though don't hesitate to change it if you see the nock kicking up/down.
If I were to install a metal d loop, would I place the bottom of the d loop with the bottom of the arrow so the arrow sits level? Since the metal d loop clamps onto the string there's no point of a nock correct? I'm very new to archery so any advice or opinions is much appreciated.
If using a release aid, yes, you can set the arrow nock at zero on the string as the release connection point is directly behind it.
I’m confused. You said with split finger you go 1/8 higher. But 5/8 plus 1/8 is 6/8. You said it would be half inch?
I misspoke during the video. For 3-under I set it at 5/8" where with split finger I set at 4/8" (1/2").
Ok, I have a speed square I also have a large drywall square. Could I make one of those work?
You could certainly give it a try. It may take a bit more trial and error work, but it should put you in the right ball park.
@@3RiversArchery I did give it a try! It worked, but I had to move the nock a couple of times. Not perfect, but a working solution none the less. Really enjoying your channel!
Hey, I have a question. I frequently break down my takedown recurve for travel, will removing the string affect the nocking point at all?
Not at all. Well, meaning it doesn't hurt it taking it off. Only thing to watch for is the string untwisting (if a Flemish twist style). It would not be a lot though, and you could use a paperclip to connect the end loops if worried.
@@3RiversArchery thank you!
It would been much easier to show how and where to place the nock measurement position with a good close-up shot instead of telling for explanation. But there are other videos that show better close-up views for better understanding. Assumption is the "mother of all mistakes".
Nice shot of the ruler...not!
🙏🏽
Thanks 🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰
I got bad math
Sir, no offense but you talk and teach as if to someone who already knows what you're doing. For example, brace height... why mention it if you can't fix it? Where does the open end of the nock face? How do you know if you're pinching the string? Different teeth of your pliers? You never talked about pliers. And seriously? 1, 2, 3... that's where you want your nock.... as if everyone has the same tool you do. Mine is in 1/16.... Your camera view is too far away to see what you're counting.
I hear you are nice but this video could use more explanations. Apologies.
Thank you for the suggestions, which these are all great points. If it was a series of videos, which we may do in the future, we can address all the fine detail points like you have listed here. For keeping the video to reasonable lengths, as the longer they are the less viewers that watch to the end, we organized this video as we did. We will see about having more videos made in the future that get into questions you asked.