Setting up the Nockpoint at a traditional bow! Henry Bodnik`s Archery Basics
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2019
- Explaining the importance of the right nocking point and how to set up the nocking point at a traditional bow. All about the nocking point of a traditional bow shot over the shelf! Thanks for your comments and to subscribe our RUclips channel!
![Archery - HOW TO SET a NOCKING POINT [Tuning #2] with STEVE WIJLER!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SLo3rZeihLQ/mqdefault.jpg)
That's the clearest explanation of why the nock point needs to be above the shelf. Thank you so much! And I love shooting my Slick Stick! God bless.
Keep them coming. I learn a lot from you. Thank you Henry!
Thanks for your feedback and the nice comment. Of course will continue.
I love what your doing for traditional archery. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for your comment.
It’s my passion.
Always great stuff Henry, thank you for sharing all your knowledge, you are a great man in the archery industry.
Jason Armstrong
Thank you very much for your feedback.
To much newbies around telling funny stuff.
Think it’s necessary to share grown knowledge.
Thanks for your comments
Will continue. New vids will come soon.
excellent video Henry, thanks !
I appreciate the time that you take to assist folks like myself. I've been shooting most of my life. But am always eager to learn more in depth of the how and why.
Thank you
Thank you commenting!
Very informative video Henry. I subscribed because I have so much to learn from you. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Cheers from Utah, USA
K W Thanks for your nice feedback and comment.
More vids will follow
Very nice. These basics are critical to the new trad archers.
Thank's for the great informative video. I just picked up my old recurve after a bunch of years. I never knew to set the neck point a little high,but I makes sense.
Daniel Luedtke thanks for your comment. Great that it’s helping to set up right
Thank you, Henry, for your amazing content. You explain things so well and that helps those of us who are new/returning to the archery world. I recently got a used Slick Stick running your string and it has quickly become my favorite bow. It's 35# but shoots more like a 40# in terms of results.
Henry, my friend, it's amazing what there is on Y/T and the amazing people like you that are prepared to share their wealth of knowledge that you have! I've been reading up on archery stuff for years, but never picked this finer point of 'nock'- 'rest' relationship with bare-bows and how important it was for consistent accuracy for target shooting.For yrs we were basically 'snap-shooting' , instinct-shooting, which was ok for kids. But now my g/children need more..... and us oldies have to meet their expectations . So, there's a lot or re-learning for all of us? Thanks again for your presentation. Cheers from NZ.
Thanks for this great feedback and your comment. Instinctive archery is my passion and a big part of my life.
Excellent Mr. Bodnik!
Charles T. Murray Thanks for the feedback
I am am new at all of this . I really appreciate the time and info you put in to your videos !!!!
Thanks for your comment 👍
Mr.Bodnik,
I have two Slick Stick Bows. Longbow and recurve.Both bows are OUTSTANDING! Thank You so much!
Great instruction. To the point and well explained. Thank you!
Great information. Thanks and keep up the great content. So long from Elizabeth City, NC, USA!
Donnie Willis
Thanks
It’s my passion and I really like to share my knowledge
Teaching Instinctive Archery since more than 20 years
WHY DID I NOT FIND THESE VIDEOES EARLIER?! Thank you so much Henry, I am absolutely in love with your products. Just like pokemon, gotta get them all! Best regards from Norway:)
very well explained on one missunderstood aspect of tuning the traditional bow. too many never fine tune their bow for it's best performance to their style of shooting. little changes in grip etc can make a huge difference
I agree that the nocking point on any bow is important. Unfortunately you are getting confused between 1/16” and 1/8” . The smaller divisions on the imperial side of the gauge are 1/16” and the larger divisions are 1/8” . I assume that you really mean that the starting position should be 7/16” or 1/2” ( 4....1/8”s ).
George Arber You are righ!
Talking about the smaller divisions. Will try to correct this information in my vid!
Thanks for your comment!
Thank you for the detailed advice
A pleasure
Thanks to comment
Thank you Henry! This video help me a lot 👍🙏
Great to read!
Thanks to comment
Great advice my friend
Great wideo about archery adwentures. Thanks.
A pleasure
Thanks to comment
Thank you. Very helpful. Rube Powell taught my bear bow shooting 20 years ago. Bill
Thanks for your feedback
Shoot straight
Just received my Quick Stick 50#. Set the knock point at 11mm, and it shoots perfect straight arrows. I was waiting to adjust my tips to correct any knock right or left, or adjust the knocking point for high or low nock. Nope, perfectly straight with 500 spine with 75 or 125 grain field points. Love this bow!
Thanks for your feedback and to comment.
Thanks shooting a Bodnik Bow
Thank you so much. Ill comment again when I try this out. 👍👍👍💪
Henry, good info. on the nock set it should help a lot of people. Have you tried two nock sets one above the arrow like your video and one below the arrow. Hope to see more thank you.
Alan Beaulier
Don’t like to use two nock point restructures.
It’s not really a big think but every weight in the center of the string acting extremely counterproductive
Liked and shared for everyone 🏹👍😎
Andre Feickert Thanks to share!!
Hi Henry , I still have and love My B.Furgeson designed Z bow from You .
Thank you Henry, two questions please : is the 9/16 of inch calculated under the arrow nock or above ? And what is the tiller you put in your bows , positive or negative ? and how much tiller is noticeable ie : up to 1/ 16 ? Thanks again . I like your videos very much. Cheers!
Hello Pierre,
9/16 of an inch under the nock
Tiller if our bows is 3-6 mm positive
Most archers will not notice 1/16 of an inch tolerance in tiller
Easy to adjust via the nocking point
Bigger tolerances will get mor difficult in the tuning process of the arrow and of course will cost some energy of the arrow.
Arrow will loose more energy during the first 20 y of his flight because of a longer phase of stabilization
Another great video
Just wondering if there is any difference to the nocking point between split finger or three finger under please ?
Brendan Bongiovanni
Thanks for your comment!
Every serial bow is built for a split finger anchor.
3 fingers under will need basically a different tiller of the bow. Otherwise you have to adjust this non perfect working of the limbs with a different nocking point!
Like your videos. Please keep up the good work Danny Coffey Visalia California
Thanks
Looking forward to your setup using a stick on arrow rest
Thanks for your comment! Thats a good idea. Will think about it.
Good video, useful advice (UK)
Thank you for your Feedback!
Hi Henry!
I been a splitfinger shooter since 7 years, and recently I have to test how its working with 3 under.
Some people told me that, then you must rise the nock on the string slightly, and later even increase the brace height slightly.
So I have been tested this for some days now, and moving nock point up and down, with various result on 19 yards.
And I also change my anchor from corner of the mouth, to my cheek bone, so it all ended up, with lower nock point on my string, from 16mm to 12mm.
And a turn tighter on the string, now it works very well, Im afraid to crush my arrows, due to they group very tight together, do you have any comments or advices on this?( seems like a stupid question, but Im open for any kind of adjustments or advices that can improve my shooting.
When I use the splitfinger shooting, Im most of the time confident to hit a 3D animals( on competitions), but I still have a feeling that Im not as confident as I want to be, I do misses, on my last 2arrow 24 goal 3D competition, I missed 9 arrows, and it feels even if I exercise quite often, I don't get further, that's why I started to test 3 under, to see if that could make me feel more confident.
The arrow is flying straight, and make bullets hole while paper shooting on 6 yards.
Why I changed the anchor is, that I wanted the arrow closer to my eye, to hopefully get better accuracy, and feel more confident while aiming, on 19 yards my small gap is about 3cm over the target, to hit the target( shooting on small paper bits.
Henry, thanks for the video, especially the close-up shots of the nock point. It's interesting that you measure from the bottom of the arrow nock, which makes sense, but most places I've seen measure to the actual nock point.
Also nice to see some close-ups of the Bodnik Longbow, which is a bow I'm very interested in. I do have a question on that note, though - are there any plans to offer it in other colors? The gray looks pretty neat, it's definitely a striking combo, but I'd love to see a more "natural wood" version as well.
Thank you for your detailed and nice comment. Different length in a different wooden combination will come in 2020. Bodnik Longbow is a very nice shooting longbow to fit in the regulation of the archery federations.
Thankyou
I knew it was my arrow placement..., I’m new to archery. Just started yesterday. I would Align the water bottle perfectly 20 yards away and it would either be too short or over the water bottle, but it would always line up with the water bottle. Sometimes I get wacky shots, like it would go a little to the right or left when I didn’t want it to. This could be because of my pasture. I probably took 25 shoots yesterday at 20yards, hit the water bottle 5 times, the rest was very close to the water bottle. I have a feeling that I miss the water bottle because of my arrow placement, it isn’t dead center. Therefore my arrows would shoot a lil high or low. Now that I know there is a nock center, I will go and find that good spot first thing in the morning.
How did it work out for you. Curious how it`s going?
@@henrybodnik-archeryandadve2111 I found my nock center on my bow. It’s a lot better now.. I’ve gotten pretty good at aiming. I notice a big increase in accuracy. I have a traditional recurve bow…, so I won’t be accurate all the time, but im only looking for clustered shots that are very close to one another. I fixed the over shot and short shots that I talked about in this comment. It was my posture forsure. So, I fixed that and with a center nock. I hit bullseye most of the time. It gets harder though at further yardage. At 50 yards, it’s hard to guesstimate the arrow. Im trying to get a good feel of the range, so that I can guesstimate more accurately when fluctuating my distance from the Target. Overall, im solid on the 20-30 yard distance. I would hit bullseye most the time with my recurve.
Thanks Henry, for the Slick Stick Recurve it's same ?
Thanks for your great feedback
More, please.
What would you like to know ?
thank yew
A pleasure
I'm very basic primitive type person, is it just really lame to not use a nocking point at all? The arrow seems to never fishtail on me. Heavy wood. I just nock arrow, it slides up natural. Then I shoot. Idk. Love my slick stick.
The main information is how far up the arrow should be. So for instance what is the distance from the point that is in line with the bow shelf and the bottom of the arrow shaft when its nocked. You gave the distance from the point in line with the shelf and the bottom of the nock and the nock is not as thick as the arrow (its a bit smaller). So in your case i guess the distance of interest is about 8/16=0.5inch.
Around
Depends of course of the archer but roughly around 8-9/16“
Henry where did you get that blue measuring tool square ?
boone7075
Regular bow square
Should be available in the most archery shops
Got my bow square from Bearpaw Products
www.bearpaw-shop.com/produkte/pfeile/zubehoer/215/50015-messlehre-checker?number=50015
I like those small nocking points too, but I've found that it is very difficult to open them if you want to adjust their position. Their length is too short, on a "normal" nocking point both ends touch each other and I can easily open them with a flat head screwdriver. Do you have any tips on how to open them more easily?
I have mohawkrecurve. Im unable to find a nock point will my mohawk have same nock point as in this video
haroon asghar yes
Yes, nocking point should be there.
Please be aware that every serial bow is built for a split finger anchor.
Shooting 3 fingers under will affect arrow flight and need to get tuned with a different nocking point
Would you recomend going slightly lower or higher on the recomended brace height?
That was a good WIDEO.
did you ever do the video on arrow tuning
Robert Crowther
Not yet but will do one next year
What arrow rest is that please ?
When you say 8 to 9 8ths of an inch, I think perhaps you mean 4 to 5 8ths? Otherwise your nock point is over an inch above shelf?
Talking about 7-9/16 of an inch
was a mistake
nice just checked my point
Thanks for the feedback
How many nocking points on a bow? People are saying two.....one knot above and one knot below the arrows nock, Wrong.....there is only one. The center of the gap between the two knots is the nocking point. The height of the nocking point is the measurement to that center.
Using only one nock point restrictor above the nock
My measurements based on the lower edge of the nock (of the arrow)
Lieber henry ich habe dein Video über dein Unternehmen gesehen und kann dier jetzt schon sagen das ich eines tages einen bogen besitzen werde der deinen namen trägt .Eine schöne firma mit klasse chef . Niki
You can't have 9/8" of an inch - 9/8" = 1 inch and 1/8" - looking at the measure on the video I think you mean 9/16" of an inch. If you grew up with the metric system the imperial system must be tough! Great video all the same!
I did not put mine the right way.. I know have two brass nocking point I dont know how to take off.. :(
2 needle nose pliers or micro pliers and pry them apart
Thanks for the video. Both this one and the travel trailer could really benefit from a cargo door in the bunk room since you can't get there with the slides closed. We don't have room to open our slides while in storage. Even a half door instead of the driver side window would allow us to put some kids clothes/gear in the camper before heading out. It would also allow for emergency retrieval of the ipad that the kid left there on the 6-hour travel day!
Great video but you may want to have a better look at measurements on your bow square .what you are calling an 1/8 inch is really 1/16 of an inch . 9/8th of an inch is actually 11/8 inches . 5/8th above square is my go to starting point for all bows shooting of the shelf .
Lloyd Ralph
Yes
You are right
We will put a not in the vid
I‘m talking about 9/16
Where would the Nock be for 3 under?
Henry,
I am sorry to have to remind you again but you are getting mixed up with your imperial increments ! The small divisions are 1/16” and not 1/8” . Two of the small increments are 1/16” and equates to 1/8” . Therefore the measurement that you mention to the nocking point of 9/8” is in fact one inch plus one eighth of an inch ( 1 1/8” ) ! Nine small divisions equates to 9/16” .
George Arber for Christ’s sake can y’all adopt the god dam metric system already? How complicated is that.. it could just be 14mm simple. I’m a carpenter I say things like cut a length at 3452- you guys like cut a length at 2 yards 3 feet 7 inches and 2/16s? I mean come on lol it’s ridiculous
Bye you saying 9 - 1/8 your saying that it should be 1 1/8” high of the shelf. Thank you.
Sig Man Archery
Most are at 8/8-9/8“!
Very rare to need nockpoints of 6/8 - 7/8“ when shooting over the shelf.
Henry I’ve got one year bear Paw USA slick sticks and I was wondering if there’s a way I could send you a pic. Right beyond the riser it has started to delaminate was wondering if it could be repaired or replaced due to your 30 year warranty if you could let me know I’d really appreciate it is there’s a way I can send you a pic thank you.
Sig Man Archery
Just send me a pic via mail.
henry.bodnik@bodnikbows.com
@@henrybodnik-archeryandadve2111 Henry your setting the knocking point at 9/16 not 9/8 according to what I am seeing understandable mix up as your system is metric not imperial .Not being pedantic but just in case someone does actually set their knocking point to 9/8.Every single mark on the square is 1/16 so 2 marks are equal to 1/8
Sorry Henry just read lower down and I see the point has already been made
I think George is wrong on the divisions that Henry was using! He was counting eight increments and when he said 9/8’s it was absolutely correct. He was counting the the eight increments not the sixteenth increments!
I get a little frustrated when I'm searching for straightforward guide to a task, and find several minutes of firemaking and dog petting in front of the content. Your camera work is pretty, but it's getting in the way of the tutorial.
Thank you for this feedback.
We will think about this point.
Scott, I feel like you,
but in this case it IS Henry Bodnik so I cut slack to Byrons, Freds, Howards…
I did it too. This is what I used Woodglut designs for
the only way to get the nock point right 100% is shooting through paper.anything else is just an approximation.
9/8 of an inch? You mean 1&1/8th inch.
auf english reden und einen langweiligen Pickup fahren,
und wozu ist diese Brackwasserpfütze gut ?
9/8ths? Do you mean 5/8? Sorry but 9/8 did one inch 1/8 . Way! Too much