I'm a new club archer and about to buy my first bow. On trying to do some research, I've come across various terms in setting up a bow but didn't really understand them in detail. I've now watched all 5 of your videos re setting up a bow and learned so much, all explained in a straightforward and easy to understand way. Thanks so much for taking the trouble to make and post them. I'm now a subscriber👍
I love RUclips for this reason, for some reason a roll of thin wallpaper never occured to me as a good source of paper for this! I'm a fairly new archer but I've been on a real learning curve. I've done bareshaft tuning but as you say it strips an arrow and you need some distance. If I'm happy with spine and just want to check nock height this is a great home solution. Whilst I'm commenting... I've found your videos clear and helpful. Your content is just as helpful as NuSensei and Jake Kaminsky and at times easier to practically apply. Thanks for your time and effort!
You can also use paper tuning for spine checks as well. Do exactly the same thing and if the tear is point left and Fletching right your spine is too stiff and visa versa for a weak spine. Obviously if you are left handed this is reversed. Thank you for your kind comments.
Yes, that's true, but I didn't want want to confuse people, so I decided to keep it straightforward. I could have babbled on about lots of different nock points but chose not to.
Hi, great video, very easy to follow, thank you. Couple of questions, are you shooting level through the paper or slightly down becaue of boss height and also, would you need to move nock point if changing arrows, say fatter or thinner diameter, different spine etc?
@trujedi hi, in this case, I am shooting slightly downwards but it doesn't make any difference to the way the arrow goes through the paper what you are trying to do is get the point and the fletching to pass through the same hole. If you change to thicker or thinner arrows your nock height will change very slightly but changing arrow stiffness should not affect your nock point. Hope this helps. Enjoy your archery journey and thanks for the support.
Best placement video i seen and metric, but you didnt tell people was that the top point or thr bottom one, i would hazed a guess that was the top the arrow will go under that, but you never told us,
Yes, that's correct. I only install a top brass nock because its only temporary, and I will change it for a tied one once I find the correct nocking point.
Owww so thats knock point tuning. Why some archers make it so complicated lol. All i need is a suitably stand to hold the paper. But thankyou thats really helpful. Although ithink mine is about right because the shop knocked my string when i brought my bow.
No that's paper tuning, knock point tuning is turning the knock to different positions to get your broadheads to hit with your field points. He misspoke as well, as bare shaft tuning is not for the knock point but for the length of arrow to tune your best spine.
Question: when is hoot a bare shaft at 30m, it fly fairly straight but near impact, the shaft will turn slight to the right (I’m a right handed archer) Shaft does not land left of aim point (no indication of weak spine), it goes pretty much where my sight is when I release. The shaft just has a slight right direction in the target. Plunger? Release? Form? Technique?
Good question. Firstly, are you shooting indoors or outside? If outside, the weather (wind direction will have an effect) can play havoc with bareshaft tuning. Even a still day that's a bit damp will produce a different flight. As the arrow is flying straight and then kicking right near the end of it's flight, l would say it's most likely to be a minor release issue. Try concentrating on keeping the back of your string hand flat to not accidentally twist the string.
I'm a new club archer and about to buy my first bow. On trying to do some research, I've come across various terms in setting up a bow but didn't really understand them in detail. I've now watched all 5 of your videos re setting up a bow and learned so much, all explained in a straightforward and easy to understand way. Thanks so much for taking the trouble to make and post them. I'm now a subscriber👍
I'm glad I could help. Enjoy the archery journey
I love RUclips for this reason, for some reason a roll of thin wallpaper never occured to me as a good source of paper for this! I'm a fairly new archer but I've been on a real learning curve. I've done bareshaft tuning but as you say it strips an arrow and you need some distance. If I'm happy with spine and just want to check nock height this is a great home solution.
Whilst I'm commenting... I've found your videos clear and helpful. Your content is just as helpful as NuSensei and Jake Kaminsky and at times easier to practically apply. Thanks for your time and effort!
You're very welcome. There's more to come.
You can also use paper tuning for spine checks as well. Do exactly the same thing and if the tear is point left and Fletching right your spine is too stiff and visa versa for a weak spine. Obviously if you are left handed this is reversed. Thank you for your kind comments.
Ah yes, porpoising is exactly what's happening to me, thanks for the help!
I'm glad to be of help. Enjoy the archery journey.
There are adjustable tied nock point knots.
I haven't used a pair of knock pliers in this century.
Yes, that's true, but I didn't want want to confuse people, so I decided to keep it straightforward. I could have babbled on about lots of different nock points but chose not to.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
excellent presentation... keep up the good work
Thank you for your support 🙏
Thanks, this is a big help.
Pleased to help 😀
hardest thing to setup on a bow. some bows are near impossible and you can see it on arrow flight.good points. TU
Hi, great video, very easy to follow, thank you. Couple of questions, are you shooting level through the paper or slightly down becaue of boss height and also, would you need to move nock point if changing arrows, say fatter or thinner diameter, different spine etc?
@trujedi hi, in this case, I am shooting slightly downwards but it doesn't make any difference to the way the arrow goes through the paper what you are trying to do is get the point and the fletching to pass through the same hole. If you change to thicker or thinner arrows your nock height will change very slightly but changing arrow stiffness should not affect your nock point. Hope this helps. Enjoy your archery journey and thanks for the support.
@@thebarebowbrummie makes great sense, thank you
Best placement video i seen and metric, but you didnt tell people was that the top point or thr bottom one, i would hazed a guess that was the top the arrow will go under that, but you never told us,
Yes, that's correct. I only install a top brass nock because its only temporary, and I will change it for a tied one once I find the correct nocking point.
Well - that ruined our chances of remodling the living room! ;)
Do you place the arrow above the nock point or below it ?
The arrow always goes under the nock.
Owww so thats knock point tuning. Why some archers make it so complicated lol. All i need is a suitably stand to hold the paper. But thankyou thats really helpful. Although ithink mine is about right because the shop knocked my string when i brought my bow.
No that's paper tuning, knock point tuning is turning the knock to different positions to get your broadheads to hit with your field points. He misspoke as well, as bare shaft tuning is not for the knock point but for the length of arrow to tune your best spine.
Question: when is hoot a bare shaft at 30m, it fly fairly straight but near impact, the shaft will turn slight to the right (I’m a right handed archer)
Shaft does not land left of aim point (no indication of weak spine), it goes pretty much where my sight is when I release. The shaft just has a slight right direction in the target.
Plunger? Release? Form? Technique?
Good question. Firstly, are you shooting indoors or outside? If outside, the weather (wind direction will have an effect) can play havoc with bareshaft tuning. Even a still day that's a bit damp will produce a different flight. As the arrow is flying straight and then kicking right near the end of it's flight, l would say it's most likely to be a minor release issue. Try concentrating on keeping the back of your string hand flat to not accidentally twist the string.