I used the same product on my last door. I also added 1/4" melamine panels so that I could use the doors as whiteboards. I cut them so that I could slide them into the top and bottom rail of the door panel and the insulation held them in place.
I just installed Insulfoam insulation from Lowes, it was $68 for a single garage door. I live in Yuma,AZ and Its keeping the garage 10 degrees cooler. I also like the way it looks.
Love your approach to reasonable cost/benefit analysis. Like you said, you've used it on 3 different garages so for you it works and that's really all that matters.
I just did this to my garage door. It's been unbearably hot so it took a couple days for the insulation to make a difference, but I definitely can feel the difference now. My garage has 10 bays instead of 8 so I needed an extra box. Very easy and so far, I am very happy with the outcome.
I was looking at those kits, but didn't like the idea of the plastic clips and edges coming out. So instead I used 1.5" thick NGX foam board and the cost was very close to the same. Yes it was a bit more involved to install, but it's never going to fall out when the plastic clips melt off in the full sun on my garage door all afternoon. Turns out it's not as heavy as the pink batts ether. I was blown away at how well it works!!! I should have done it years ago! You should have mentioned that the garbage door springs should be properly adjusted for the new weight added to the garage door.
I have this product installed on my door. The door is West facing (Arizona). Today the out side temp was 103F the measured exterior reflected heat off the door was 152F (Dark Brown door color). Because of this my clips kept on falling off. I actually had to epoxy them to the door for them to stay on. Will test it this summer to see if they stick all summer long. BTW great information!
I just installed this in my FL garage for sound insulation more than temp regulation, although I'll take that benefit, as well (I'm using a Mr. Cool as well). I'm 24hrs into having this installed, and I already notice a benefit. No regrets whatsoever. Given the litigious society we live in today, I doubt VERY seriously that Corning would put out a product that would cause your springs to explode. If that starts happening on your garage door, then it "ain't" gonna be because of a few bats of fiberglass insulation. (sigh....only on RUclips). Whether or not it's better or worse......who knows. I've honestly got nothing to compare it to. But, I'm VERY happy with mine. The difference is obvious. The sound benefits are amazing, and I'm just now barely starting to see how much more efficient it makes my Mr. Cool, unit.
Hi. I am looking for something to reduce noise from going outside. Can you tell me how much noise reduction I will get. I really appreciate your input. I am a diy and my neighbors complain about my power tools noise. Once again I appreciate your input.
@@bijan4727 Hello, and thanks for the comment. The problem is that there are SO many variables. How close are you to the neighbors, what material are your garage walls, do you have windows in the garage, what kind of power tools, etc, etc…. As far as your garage door goes, it cost me just over $200 to cover a 2-car garage door….and it definitely helps. I’m a drummer and needed to make sure I wasn’t offending my neighbors. The door insulation helped lower the volume by roughly 20-30%, and it keeps my garage cool, as well (I have a mini-split). But, i wound up building a room inside my garage. Had I had it all to do over again, I would’ve put more drywall up on the existing walls of the garage. That’s by FAR the cheapest way to go. You’re literally putting up $20 sheets of drywall right over the top of your existing drywall. It just depends on your budget, and RUclips is loaded with videos on this topic. That said, short of the garage door, soundproofing get’s expensive quickly. If you have windows that sound is penetrating, you can get a product call Isole-sheets, as well. They’re more decorative and use “mass loaded vinyl”. They’re about $150 last time I checked, but are fantastic. Hope that helps!
Totally agree with your assessment of insulating a garage door. I live in Central Florida and my garage door faces north. By 10:00am in the summertime, my garage was getting uncomfortable with the heat. Bought 1/2" styrofoam board which had one side with a thin aluminum type foil adhered to it and basically cut the board to fit in the sections of the door li ki e you did. I placed the aluminum foil side towards the metal door. What a difference in the space now. I can go into the garage at 13:00hrs and it is not over 85 degrees. The aluminized styrofoam board works well and is significantly cheaper than fiberglass batting you installed as well. Aluminum is a great radiant heat barrier!
I really do think this is a great approach. As you mention, the R-value may not be nearly that of a true insulated garage door, (roughly half) but this is around 1/10 the cost of a proper insulated door, and as far as I'm concerned, that's worth considering. About to move into a new home, will almost certainly be installing one of these kits.
Looks great IMHO. People that say it doesn’t do anything, clearly have no clue about thermal dynamics. I have an insulated 18x12 door that I call my roll-up table saw because that’s how much it cost. Worth it? Yea, for me, but plenty of great solutions like this one too.
I did the same after watching your old garage (the previous home). It makes a HUGE difference. One benefit for me is that I have a fridge in the garage and the compressor doesn't kick in as often. My garage is wood so I just screwed them on with some washers. Then I clipped all the plastic clips (removed the "tongs") and now use it as a stand-off for when I'm staining something. Finally, it's also important to put weather strips on the outside and to caulk it. Much less air leak and that helps.
If you don't need to replace the door, then this is a great idea. I just may go with it myself. A factory insulated door has an R-value starting at 8 or 9 (and those numbers are misleading as they usually measure one panel rather than total air flow). So, the same as the R-8 you have there (listed on a big box store website as such). If you have to buy a new door, might as well spend the extra $200 (double garage door, based on another local box store prices) for better aesthetics. But of course, that's more opinion than fact.
When I was pricing doors on my new garage, t he insulated doors added $4,000 over non insulated. Then there is the law of diminishing returns. A r12 door is not twice as good as an r6 door, it’s only like 6% better r value. And that number comes from the door manufacturer. So any insulation is good, you don’t need to spring for the r18 doors.
Great job on explaining. Those us in Vegas and Arizona this might just be a good product. These doors in the summer can get up to 150 degrees. Can't even get near them.
If those panels blow up your springs, your springs were bad to begin with. People spend too much time "thinking" of all the negatives that in real world experiences seldomly occur. I have the foam panels on mine and it has made a positive difference and would also do it again if I moved. Looks great, despite the negative Nancy's 🤣🤣
This adds weight to your door, shortening its life. To counter that you can reinforce the door with horizontal bars (my local repairman installed them). To avoid small white clips from falling off with time, wrap a small zip tie around the area where it locks to prevent plastic from loosening over time. The spring will also need to be replaced (and not because another comment says it's junk) - they always install springs based on the weight of the door
I see you've framed in the other door and used rock wool(?) insul there. I'm curious of the "R" factor on the rock wool insul you installed there. Looks to be 2x6 framing so I'm guessing an "R" factor of 19. I have a 20' insulated garage door that faces west and gets a lot of summer sun along with a lot of wind all year. I've got the driving rain problem taken care of with a "bump"I guess you'd call it? but the wind (gusts to 45 - 50 m.p.h.) problem still flexes the door. I've been thinking about a bi-fold or tri-fold framed wall to combat the wind problem. My question is - did you put a panel (sheeting) on the backside facing the garage door?
The door itself is pinned to the wall and insulated itself. Then I built the frame over it and adder the Rockwool. I didn’t do it for any r value benefits, more for the sound absorption benefits. I wanted to help block noise transfer out the garage door
Just installed these in my garage and I can concur, this product is way better than no product👌🏼. With that said, can’t believe you didn’t use gloves. You’re soooooooooooooo crazy and silly 🙃
Hello. I appreciate your informative illustrations. I want to use this product for noise reduction. I am a DIY and I want to reduce the amount of noise going outside. Can you tell me how much I will be reducing noise. I appreciate in advance for your input. Thanks
Please suggest if I should go with this Fibreglass or should I go for Styrofoam. Only reason I am more inclined towards Fibreglass is that this is softer than the other one. In my garage, the bolts that hold the garage on the panel protrude inside under the panel so if I put Styrofoam that will not fit it properly in the space under the panel without damaging the foam. On the other hand I am assuming this Fibreglass will fit it inside properly. Kindly share your views on this. Thanks for making and sharing this video.
Do you think there would be enough room to add a reflectix radiant barrier first, them this insulation? I live in FL with sun baking the door in the afternoons..
the product spec says it weighs 11.8 lbs. that means on a 2 car door, thats 23 lbs of added weight to the door. most garage springs says that adding 10 LB require recalibration. did you have to tighten the springs at all? any issues at all with this?
do folks think this will still fit if you have the thin reflectix type (metal covered foam bubble wrap stuff) insulation already on your garage door? this looks like it adds much more insulative value than other ones I looked at.
Directly tied to this? Not sure. If you want to drastically reduce the sound of the door opening and closing, install a side mount motor. Remarkable difference
I installed these kits 2 weeks ago. 2 car garage with 2 (each) single car doors (pillar in between - hope that makes sense). I noticed noise reduction immediately! Not sure if it makes much difference to my neighbors, but for me I love the quieter feel! I've not done any scientific before/after sound tests, but there's clearly a difference.
It will reduce noise on O/C the door/ especially a double door. I have a split 3 car garage and the one door bay I have a Whisper Drive opener which already is very quiet. I live in Texas and my garage faces due west and gets the brutal summer heat. In fact we are in the midst of over 3 weeks straight with temps over 100. This insulation does work / reduces temps by as much as 20*. As for the weight issue- I just laugh. Seriously? Always a naysayer. Brent you do a great job of explaining everything and always try your best to address all sides. Keep up the great work.
My double garage door has ledges but no channel or lip to place insulation inside. Also, thete are no vertical metal pieces. So I need to install four rows of 16 foot long horizonal pieces. I live in high desert, very hot & very cold, very arid. I like this but think I may need a rigid material (?) But then what kind of adhesive can take bake & freeze?
Do you know where you can buy the replacement clips (white clips) for this product? I purchased a home with this installed and there are 4 that won't stay clipped. Thank you
I bought the same kits for my garage doors. The clips do not stay clipped to each other. I think the clips I received in the 3 kits I bought are seriously flawed. The panels keep falling off, because the clips do not stay clipped. I'm considering taking the kits I installed on my doors and throwing them away. To then install 1" foam. Clips are junk
This will eventually wear out your motor. If done right you should have someone come and put the correct size springs on your door to account for the added weight. Also, the jack shaft motors aren't ideal for standard tracks. It's best to pitch the tracks downhill or add pusher springs to help start the door downhill. If you have high lift tracks it is not an issue.
Like ur video and it's very informative and educational. Btw...The gloves 🧤 well,that's kin$ of crazy not to wear the gloves.. specially with fiberglass. Is it because of the COVID masks😂
Nice useful video. Also check out "Which Garage Door Insulation Works Best?" ruclips.net/video/vp-wfrolo-k/видео.html, as it includes the owenscorning product (Top right of the 6 types tested, R-5 used. See 12:50 if you just want the results).
Eventually this will start to crack and break your center stile. These kits will also damage the opener. There are other kits that are alot lighter. While this kit is a R8. Others are R6 but don't require you to change your springs.
I've had this kit installed on my previous garage door for just over two years, and there was never an issue or adjustments needed to my springs. I had multiple installers out to inspect, and they said everything was in order.
I disagree. I installed the 8 panel, single door kit. Total weight of the kit is 11.8 pounds. It was a simple matter of adding two 1/4 turns to the spring.
My hands have chemical burns to the point where if I don't have gloves on my hands instantly start feeling pain and look just as painful as if someone took a razor blade to my fingers. If someone took a razor blade to my fingers atleast it would heal but with chemical burns my hands are ruined forever. I wish I didn't have to wear gloves 24/7 for my hands not to be in pain....
I used the same product on my last door. I also added 1/4" melamine panels so that I could use the doors as whiteboards. I cut them so that I could slide them into the top and bottom rail of the door panel and the insulation held them in place.
How does the melamine hold up long term with whiteboard use?
Interesting and good idea
@@JayBates I applied a coat of paste wax before using it and it seemed to hold up well.
That's a GREAT idea...
Nice idea! I have the "Tile Board" on my walls, which is whiteboard and hadn't thought about putting it on the door after insulation.
I just installed Insulfoam insulation from Lowes, it was $68 for a single garage door. I live in Yuma,AZ and Its keeping the garage 10 degrees cooler. I also like the way it looks.
Love your approach to reasonable cost/benefit analysis. Like you said, you've used it on 3 different garages so for you it works and that's really all that matters.
Thank you
I used this three years ago and it is a great system! Did make my doors heavy, but I rarely open them. Good job.
Glad you enjoyed it
I just did this to my garage door. It's been unbearably hot so it took a couple days for the insulation to make a difference, but I definitely can feel the difference now. My garage has 10 bays instead of 8 so I needed an extra box. Very easy and so far, I am very happy with the outcome.
I was looking at those kits, but didn't like the idea of the plastic clips and edges coming out. So instead I used 1.5" thick NGX foam board and the cost was very close to the same.
Yes it was a bit more involved to install, but it's never going to fall out when the plastic clips melt off in the full sun on my garage door all afternoon. Turns out it's not as heavy as the pink batts ether. I was blown away at how well it works!!! I should have done it years ago!
You should have mentioned that the garbage door springs should be properly adjusted for the new weight added to the garage door.
I saw that in your last video, glad you are covering it now. Thanks so much for your service in your real job and the woodworking community!
You’re welcome, glad you found it helpful
I have this product installed on my door. The door is West facing (Arizona). Today the out side temp was 103F the measured exterior reflected heat off the door was 152F (Dark Brown door color). Because of this my clips kept on falling off. I actually had to epoxy them to the door for them to stay on. Will test it this summer to see if they stick all summer long. BTW great information!
Yeah that could be challenging. AZ heat is no joke, that’s where I am from. Tempe
Whats the inside temp? Do they work well?
Did it work?
@@mattmatt222333 Seems to be holding up well. I do not remeber the brand but I had to use a high end epoxy so that it created a good adherence
@@carltonwbrooks thanks. I have a south facing garage in Vegas. It's already an oven
I just installed this in my FL garage for sound insulation more than temp regulation, although I'll take that benefit, as well (I'm using a Mr. Cool as well). I'm 24hrs into having this installed, and I already notice a benefit. No regrets whatsoever. Given the litigious society we live in today, I doubt VERY seriously that Corning would put out a product that would cause your springs to explode. If that starts happening on your garage door, then it "ain't" gonna be because of a few bats of fiberglass insulation. (sigh....only on RUclips). Whether or not it's better or worse......who knows. I've honestly got nothing to compare it to. But, I'm VERY happy with mine. The difference is obvious. The sound benefits are amazing, and I'm just now barely starting to see how much more efficient it makes my Mr. Cool, unit.
Hi. I am looking for something to reduce noise from going outside. Can you tell me how much noise reduction I will get. I really appreciate your input. I am a diy and my neighbors complain about my power tools noise. Once again I appreciate your input.
@@bijan4727 Hello, and thanks for the comment. The problem is that there are SO many variables. How close are you to the neighbors, what material are your garage walls, do you have windows in the garage, what kind of power tools, etc, etc…. As far as your garage door goes, it cost me just over $200 to cover a 2-car garage door….and it definitely helps. I’m a drummer and needed to make sure I wasn’t offending my neighbors. The door insulation helped lower the volume by roughly 20-30%, and it keeps my garage cool, as well (I have a mini-split). But, i wound up building a room inside my garage. Had I had it all to do over again, I would’ve put more drywall up on the existing walls of the garage. That’s by FAR the cheapest way to go. You’re literally putting up $20 sheets of drywall right over the top of your existing drywall. It just depends on your budget, and RUclips is loaded with videos on this topic. That said, short of the garage door, soundproofing get’s expensive quickly. If you have windows that sound is penetrating, you can get a product call Isole-sheets, as well. They’re more decorative and use “mass loaded vinyl”. They’re about $150 last time I checked, but are fantastic. Hope that helps!
Totally agree with your assessment of insulating a garage door. I live in Central Florida and my garage door faces north. By 10:00am in the summertime, my garage was getting uncomfortable with the heat. Bought 1/2" styrofoam board which had one side with a thin aluminum type foil adhered to it and basically cut the board to fit in the sections of the door li ki e you did. I placed the aluminum foil side towards the metal door. What a difference in the space now. I can go into the garage at 13:00hrs and it is not over 85 degrees. The aluminized styrofoam board works well and is significantly cheaper than fiberglass batting you installed as well. Aluminum is a great radiant heat barrier!
Where did you purchase this product?
Did you use the styrofoam board in addition to this?
I really do think this is a great approach. As you mention, the R-value may not be nearly that of a true insulated garage door, (roughly half) but this is around 1/10 the cost of a proper insulated door, and as far as I'm concerned, that's worth considering. About to move into a new home, will almost certainly be installing one of these kits.
They have worked great for me and they look better than other options in my opinion
Looks great IMHO. People that say it doesn’t do anything, clearly have no clue about thermal dynamics. I have an insulated 18x12 door that I call my roll-up table saw because that’s how much it cost. Worth it? Yea, for me, but plenty of great solutions like this one too.
Agreed. The idea that it does nothing is ludicrous
I did the same after watching your old garage (the previous home). It makes a HUGE difference. One benefit for me is that I have a fridge in the garage and the compressor doesn't kick in as often. My garage is wood so I just screwed them on with some washers. Then I clipped all the plastic clips (removed the "tongs") and now use it as a stand-off for when I'm staining something. Finally, it's also important to put weather strips on the outside and to caulk it. Much less air leak and that helps.
I finally moved some infrared heaters into my detached garage. I will be using this on my side
If you don't need to replace the door, then this is a great idea. I just may go with it myself. A factory insulated door has an R-value starting at 8 or 9 (and those numbers are misleading as they usually measure one panel rather than total air flow). So, the same as the R-8 you have there (listed on a big box store website as such). If you have to buy a new door, might as well spend the extra $200 (double garage door, based on another local box store prices) for better aesthetics. But of course, that's more opinion than fact.
When I was pricing doors on my new garage, t he insulated doors added $4,000 over non insulated. Then there is the law of diminishing returns. A r12 door is not twice as good as an r6 door, it’s only like 6% better r value. And that number comes from the door manufacturer. So any insulation is good, you don’t need to spring for the r18 doors.
Insulated my garage doors years ago but my kit used white bead board insulation with a vinyl surface.
Great job on explaining. Those us in Vegas and Arizona this might just be a good product. These doors in the summer can get up to 150 degrees. Can't even get near them.
If those panels blow up your springs, your springs were bad to begin with. People spend too much time "thinking" of all the negatives that in real world experiences seldomly occur. I have the foam panels on mine and it has made a positive difference and would also do it again if I moved. Looks great, despite the negative Nancy's 🤣🤣
Can’t please everyone I suppose 🤣🤣👊🏼
JD where did you purchase your product from
This adds weight to your door, shortening its life. To counter that you can reinforce the door with horizontal bars (my local repairman installed them). To avoid small white clips from falling off with time, wrap a small zip tie around the area where it locks to prevent plastic from loosening over time. The spring will also need to be replaced (and not because another comment says it's junk) - they always install springs based on the weight of the door
I thought the spring could be tightened ?
You are right it is better than nothing.
I can't believe that you didn't use gloves while handling the fiberglass!!
LOL!
Just kidding! Great and informative video! Thanks!
🤣🤣
Never give haters any time. You have to consider the source.
Great, logical presentation
Good video - thanks for doing this. Answered my question!
I see you've framed in the other door and used rock wool(?) insul there. I'm curious of the "R" factor on the rock wool insul you installed there. Looks to be 2x6 framing so I'm guessing an "R" factor of 19. I have a 20' insulated garage door that faces west and gets a lot of summer sun along with a lot of wind all year. I've got the driving rain problem taken care of with a "bump"I guess you'd call it? but the wind (gusts to 45 - 50 m.p.h.) problem still flexes the door. I've been thinking about a bi-fold or tri-fold framed wall to combat the wind problem.
My question is - did you put a panel (sheeting) on the backside facing the garage door?
The door itself is pinned to the wall and insulated itself. Then I built the frame over it and adder the Rockwool. I didn’t do it for any r value benefits, more for the sound absorption benefits. I wanted to help block noise transfer out the garage door
A before and after thermal image photo would have been cool.
Just installed these in my garage and I can concur, this product is way better than no product👌🏼. With that said, can’t believe you didn’t use gloves. You’re soooooooooooooo crazy and silly 🙃
🤣🤣 and I didn’t die.
@@bentswoodworking Are you sure though. ;)
Hello. I appreciate your informative illustrations. I want to use this product for noise reduction. I am a DIY and I want to reduce the amount of noise going outside. Can you tell me how much I will be reducing noise. I appreciate in advance for your input. Thanks
Please suggest if I should go with this Fibreglass or should I go for Styrofoam.
Only reason I am more inclined towards Fibreglass is that this is softer than the other one.
In my garage, the bolts that hold the garage on the panel protrude inside under the panel so if I put Styrofoam that will not fit it properly in the space under the panel without damaging the foam. On the other hand I am assuming this Fibreglass will fit it inside properly. Kindly share your views on this.
Thanks for making and sharing this video.
Do you think there would be enough room to add a reflectix radiant barrier first, them this insulation? I live in FL with sun baking the door in the afternoons..
Possibly. Would definitely need to tape around it I think
Any chance you know how much each of those boxes weigh? My only concern is the extra weight in my door
well done good info thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I notice in your video (3:20) you have covers on the sides of the vertical tracks. Are they homemade or purchased?
the product spec says it weighs 11.8 lbs. that means on a 2 car door, thats 23 lbs of added weight to the door. most garage springs says that adding 10 LB require recalibration. did you have to tighten the springs at all? any issues at all with this?
Dang! I was going to comment on the lack of gloves, but you beat me to it!
Sorry…..
Thanks
Will the panels stay put if you open and close the door?
They do. The issues I addressed typically only happen when it’s up.
do folks think this will still fit if you have the thin reflectix type (metal covered foam bubble wrap stuff) insulation already on your garage door? this looks like it adds much more insulative value than other ones I looked at.
Is there any noise reduction benefit when opening and closing the doors(2 car garage door)?
Directly tied to this? Not sure. If you want to drastically reduce the sound of the door opening and closing, install a side mount motor. Remarkable difference
I installed these kits 2 weeks ago. 2 car garage with 2 (each) single car doors (pillar in between - hope that makes sense). I noticed noise reduction immediately! Not sure if it makes much difference to my neighbors, but for me I love the quieter feel!
I've not done any scientific before/after sound tests, but there's clearly a difference.
It will reduce noise on O/C the door/ especially a double door. I have a split 3 car garage and the one door bay I have a Whisper Drive opener which already is very quiet. I live in Texas and my garage faces due west and gets the brutal summer heat. In fact we are in the midst of over 3 weeks straight with temps over 100. This insulation does work / reduces temps by as much as 20*. As for the weight issue- I just laugh. Seriously? Always a naysayer. Brent you do a great job of explaining everything and always try your best to address all sides. Keep up the great work.
Didn't the additional weight of the insulation require that the door springs be adjusted post installation?
Yes, definitely.
If not, it will hurt the garage door opener.
My double garage door has ledges but no channel or lip to place insulation inside. Also, thete are no vertical metal pieces. So I need to install four rows of 16 foot long horizonal pieces. I live in high desert, very hot & very cold, very arid. I like this but think I may need a rigid material (?) But then what kind of adhesive can take bake & freeze?
Do you believe this is better insulated than the foam boards?
Couldn’t say, I have never used it.
Just checked that link the price is now up to $204. Inflation is crazy.
Lowe's has it cheaper
Do you know where you can buy the replacement clips (white clips) for this product? I purchased a home with this installed and there are 4 that won't stay clipped. Thank you
I bought the same kits for my garage doors. The clips do not stay clipped to each other. I think the clips I received in the 3 kits I bought are seriously flawed. The panels keep falling off, because the clips do not stay clipped. I'm considering taking the kits I installed on my doors and throwing them away. To then install 1" foam. Clips are junk
are you aware of any product for 3 panel carriage type garage doors?
I am not aware
This will eventually wear out your motor. If done right you should have someone come and put the correct size springs on your door to account for the added weight.
Also, the jack shaft motors aren't ideal for standard tracks. It's best to pitch the tracks downhill or add pusher springs to help start the door downhill.
If you have high lift tracks it is not an issue.
What about Rats with that insulation?
Do you think this material could be painted??
Probably not. I wouldn't.
I've found the door margins allow so much air flow that insulation is just 'interesting' but not very valuable.
Installing this, is not convenient, and afterwards they need tape to stay there. I found insulation foam boards are easy.
Like ur video and it's very informative and educational.
Btw...The gloves 🧤 well,that's kin$ of crazy not to wear the gloves.. specially with fiberglass.
Is it because of the COVID masks😂
Thanks for watching
I like it. I've been looking for something to insulate a garage door. Yes. Thank you. sub/Likie
Glad you found it helpful
Now that kit is $130 on Amazon 😭
Nice useful video. Also check out "Which Garage Door Insulation Works Best?" ruclips.net/video/vp-wfrolo-k/видео.html, as it includes the owenscorning product (Top right of the 6 types tested, R-5 used. See 12:50 if you just want the results).
Undoubtedly, not undoubtebly (11:46). Englisch sprechen lernen.😂😂
I’m not reading this on Get Bent Gary 🤣🤣
@@bentswoodworking. I didn't expect you to. But i may have something to say about it tonight 😉
Eventually this will start to crack and break your center stile. These kits will also damage the opener. There are other kits that are alot lighter. While this kit is a R8. Others are R6 but don't require you to change your springs.
I've had this kit installed on my previous garage door for just over two years, and there was never an issue or adjustments needed to my springs. I had multiple installers out to inspect, and they said everything was in order.
I disagree. I installed the 8 panel, single door kit. Total weight of the kit is 11.8 pounds. It was a simple matter of adding two 1/4 turns to the spring.
Man that is ugly. Looks like a mattress.
Looks junky. Buy an insulated door in the first place.
My hands have chemical burns to the point where if I don't have gloves on my hands instantly start feeling pain and look just as painful as if someone took a razor blade to my fingers. If someone took a razor blade to my fingers atleast it would heal but with chemical burns my hands are ruined forever. I wish I didn't have to wear gloves 24/7 for my hands not to be in pain....