I would recommend the gorilla glue high temp double sided tape. That two sided tape will get brittle and lose grip and the insulation on the door will come off.
Another great upgrade is Green Hinges that are spring loaded to keep the door lightly pressed into the edge seals even in high winds and with worn edge seals. I also hear and air condition my 26x38 garage and adding Green Hinges made a very noticeable improvement in my ability to heat the garage in single digits weather with my 38,000 BTU hanging Reznor natural gas furnace.
We just turned our second garage bay into an exercise area. I was just looking into doing this to our doors, and behold, the tuber dinged me of a new video from Mr. Jason.
Magic! It's noticeably better for sure. One happy surprise is it makes the garage less echoey... which is nice if you're weird and enjoy making videos in your garage like me.
I have used the reflective material over 8-years ago. It has lasted longer than the double sided carpet tape I found to install. It added no weight to the doors and helps on summer heat.
Here's some answers to common questions! Thanks for watching. :-) #1 HAS THE TAPE HELD UP? Yes, I have not had any peeling at all. And it's the hottest summer ever here. It was 113 degrees a few weeks ago. But use high quality tape and thoroughly clean the doors before applying tape. #2 WON'T THE INSULATION CAUSE ISSUES WITH THE DOOR OPENING/SPRINGS? No. The radiant barrier is light enough that it doesn't effect the door operation at all. It's also provided some slight soundproofing improvements as well. #3 THAT THIN CRAP DOES NOTHING! YOU NEED THICK INSULATION! No. That WOULD result in issues with the door opening and closing. #4 WHAT ARE THE RESULTS?! First, the noticeable soundproofing because of the air pocket between the insulation was apparent immediately. For temperature control it didn't do anything noticeable during the winter, but it's been great in the summer. I don't have any temperature readings (summer weather before/after) because that would require me to take stuff off (installed in January). But the shop doesn't get nearly as hot as it did last summer. This combined with the heat pump I installed has kept the shop comfortable to work, and hang out in all summer. #5 A NEW GARAGE DOOR WOULD BE BETTER! Yes, of course. But that would cost $2500 or more. This project costs 10% of that. #6 RADIANT BARRIERS NEED AN AIR GAP! Yes they do. I talk about that at 5:25 and show that I have a 1/2" air gap. This helps with sound and insulation.
I think you'll find that after awhile that 2 - way tape you used dries up and looses its adhesion. That's my experience in using it where I work. Iight have chosen to use a liquid adhesive like a liquid nails type of adhesive.
Thanks for the update. I was debating buying foam boards to install on my doors, however after seeing this product, I’ve changed my mind. I live in Texas and really couldn’t care less about keeping out the cold. You might want to pin your comment at the top so folks don’t have to scroll through searching for an update 👍
I'm going to go for the double-side adhesive. I figure it'll degrade after a while, but by then I may want to upgrade or repair the insulation. Very nice. Extremely helpful.
I used the reflective foam boards. Just cut to size. Took a day or two much less heat loss in winter and less gain in summer. It is a lot quieter in the garage now
@@dreamingrightnow1174 If you are heating/cooling that space, the higher R value foam board will be a better long-term solution. And to add into this subject of garage insulation; in most areas, if the garage is not heated/cooled and has no living space above it (or is detached), it won't likely have any insulation in the walls/attic whatsoever. If you insulate a space without heating or cooling you risk having mold issues. due to excess condensation. That said, either foam or this foil-wrapped-bubble-wrap will help knock down that radiant heat regardless of your overall garage insulation.
I put purple foamboard insulation in the inside of my garage door, made all the difference R-value 10 as well as outside weather stripping. ALSO I had Radiant Barrier installed in my attic (painted roof, attic tent for hole and more insulation in attic as well as sealing can lights. Cut my electric bill on 2500 sq ft from $400-$600 to $150-$200).
@@IbelieveinJesusAmen Radiant barrier is painting attic ceiling, adding more insulation, attic stair tent and sealing all can lights and added LED's light bulbs.
Instead of going horizontally with radiant barrier.. I went vertical.. this allowed for a large airgap between barrier and door panels. The result was even better.. the air gap allowed for much greater difference between outside temp and inside temp. The air gap is key.
Great video. Also used Reflectix on my garage door recently. I ended up using aluminum tape. It worked good, but definitely not as clean looking. Those 90 degree angles can be a bugger.
Thank you!!! All the other videos I’ve seen have garage doors with channels to set the foam boards into. My door is like yours, so this was the most helpful to me. I was about to give up on the idea! I appreciate this so much!!!
Woah! Thanks Ben. I binged a bunch of your GoPro videos a while back. Yeah I try to push quality on everything I put out. Views are all over the place, but I love doing this just the same.
Good job. I used the radiant barrier with the double sided tape on metal at one time. After a while the tape started coming off. I ended up using some foil tape around the edges and along the seams. Worked well. But even so, that will probably have to be redone at some point in time too. Tape adhesive does dry up after time. Just my thoughts on the subject. Thanks for your video, well done.
I'd use a bead of clear Quad or Lexel. My bets are that in the heat of the day in hot climates, double sided tape adhesive will get gummy and loose its grip long before it dries out and turns to powder.
This looks great. You will also love the radiant barrier. Just used some of the same stuff to insulate the floor joists of a cantilevered sunroom (with a supposed R-21 as installed) and it works terrific.
Try Low-E reflective insulation manufactured here in USA by Environmentally Safe Products in New Oxford PA .. has more stable core and is real aluminum not mylar film
if you have left over radiant barrier you could cut a thicker piece for the seams, so it can flex as the door opens, kind of like those Large 2 part city buses. Might not matter in the end but it might help with Temps.
@@JasonExplainsThings awesome! Please show it off when you use it. I purchased a Seek thermal camera and it's come in super handy. Keep up the great content!
Back to Low-E made by Environmentally Safe Products in New Oxford pa. There is metal building roof thermal imaging available on the website under their Low-E product (there are other products available for specific applications) done by professional 3rd party
It's true I don't know how I found you but I like the weather stripping and the insulation I need to do that as well here's a fun video recommendation to do jack stand storage since I see you needed to
Nice job. I noticed you might want to consider taking the handles off your emergency door-release ropes. Thieves use coat hangers to slide in and snag the rope and pull to the side. They can release the door and open from the outside. if you take the handle off and melt the tip of the rope, it won't unravel and makes it much harder for someone to pull it loose. Just make sure the rope is not long enough to be pulled all the way outside (cut it off just shy of the door face and melt the end. You can still grab the rope and wrap it around your hand to pull and release it from inside during an emergency.
Or just cover the cord with a thick pool noodle. That makes it virually impossible for thieves to pull the rope from outside and keeps the pull cord usable from the inside.
Serious shop envy Jason. Keep us posted on how well this performs in the coming months. Getting a garage/shop designed and built myself at the moment, can't wait to get in & start the fit out 👍
Great video, this is on my bucket list. Will help when cutting my lawn, grass clippings getting into my garage. In addition I would recommend a comment checking the bottom weather-stripping on the garage door for a perfect seal. Again, Thank you for the video and I have subscribed to your channel.
@@JasonExplainsThings Have you seen/felt any improvement? Done any temperature tests? I'm in Houston and have been looking into doing this for my garage, but wasn't sure if the radiant barrier would help, especially if the heat would just flow up the air gap and back into the garage.
Nice! that radiant barrier is what I need for my doors here in Florida. They face full sun most of the day, are paper thin and dark colored. The trifecta of ingredients to cook the garage to very well done in summer.
Somebody, I forget the name of the company, makes a section of door track that has waves in it at the level where each roller is when the door is all the way down. The waves peak outward, so it pushes the door out....meaning it then seals against the weather stripping, which is the same type used here, plus another layer of foam stripping that creates a really good, tight seal and is solid, the door won’t shake or rattle in the track when the wind blows because the track pushes the door out firmly against the weather stripping. I think it makes a world of difference and the tracks weren’t expensive. Weather stripping was a little more than regular door stripping but not bad. Well worth it. And if you put a new bottom seal on the door as well, you’re in great shape for winter or summer.
Hmm, not sure what you mean but maybe someone else will chime in. I don't really have issues with the door rocking back and forth after doing the new exterior seals. The current bottom seal is in good shape.
@@JasonExplainsThings Consider me that someone else! Lol. I was just watching another video by Matt Risinger and the good ol' algorithm lead me here. ruclips.net/video/h7pEGEyVBLI/видео.html Sounds like you're talking about ThermoTraks. Matt details the product pretty well but essentially it's a replacement track that, rather than being straight, bumps forward at each hinge so when the door is all the way down, the whole thing pushes forward for an even better seal. Matt does a better job explaining it than I do. Looks like it would really complement the work you've already done. Great video, BTW! I just subscribed. Looking forward to even more great content!
@brian bailey in an insulation install where you are looking to gain R value yes, an air space is recommended. insulation works by trapping an air space. To do this all sides must be sealed off. In a garage door application however, you aren't necessarily trying to gain R value but rather add a reflective barrier. In Jason's application, he added double bubble Reflectix so he gained the R value of just the bubble which is R1.1 and also gained a radiant barrier which blocks 96% of radiant heat in both directions meaning that in the summer his doors only transmit 4% of the sun's energy through his door and in the winter he retains 96% of his heat source that used to be transferred through his door. I hope this makes sense.
@@toddhare8225 it does make sense and tns a lot for clarifying all that. I would think tho that if he were to have sealed of the perimeter and also found way to create that air gap it would be even better. I have a question.. what constitutes "air" in this scenario for reflectix. Can loose sheep wool for example still be considered air? It would add R Value but also not conduct heat....or would foam board and then a layer of reflectix work?
@brian bailey no problem. The issue with creating an air space on a garage door is the the door becomes thicker and in some cases too thick to operate correctly. Yes a trapped air space is better and could increase the R value up to an R4.1 in this application. All insulation work by trapping air spaces. So yes, in wool or fiberglass insulation there is air trapped within the fibers. This is why a fiberglass R13 is reduced when you smash the product down. You didn't remove any product but you do remove air.
Tha. t radiant barrier rolls is what they put under the roof in the Philippines . If the ceiling has already been put in , they put it against the ceiling . The white side out and silver side in, as well against any walls . It supposedly has greatly reduced the heat there has it gets HOT and HUMID .
This works. I did it on my garage doors about 4 years ago. With nothing, I took a temp reading during summer in So Cal and it was 120* on the inside of the door. I did a similar install and then took a reading after completing and the interior door read 90* in similar conditions.
Liked and subscribed for two reasons: 1. - good information delivered at a good pace (not a lot of useless over-explaining or off-topic backstory) 2. - didn’t START the video asking to subscribe and hit the bell. Can’t tell you how irritating that is. How do I know if I’ll like, and want to subscribe, before even watching the video?
Thanks man. Nagging for subs/likes is awkward for sure. I try to do it as not-annoying as possible. But growing a channel is really hard. This video has blown up magically, but most of my stuff doesn't get much love.
One key dilemma in such a project, in the cold of winter I welcome the heat from the sunlight beating on the metal. I wish there was an easy seasonally adjustable solution.
I'm just stopping to say RUclips recommended this video and your channel to me. Nice garage door upgrades. I've seen people use the rigid foam insulation for their doors. This seems like a much easier solution. Hope it works out great for you.
@@ImAlwaysFrisky seems you could try to do the radiant barrier, with a rigid foam layer on top? I mean, you lose the pretty silver appearance, but it might bounce heat and act as an insular thermal barrier(?) too.
One thing to add fyi is in cold areas that gap may n probably will condensate n drip upon working the door. It’s very difficult to actually seal up the panels long term.
You ought to saw off those bars hanging down from the garage door opener mechanism. If you accidentally close the door when you rear tail door is open it will get badly scratched. Cutting it off can provide clearance .
On thing I've found with double-tape is after a few months or years it can let go. It helps if you add a single thin bead of caulk around the edge. The tape will hold it in place until it dries, the caulk won't let go but can still be removed in the future if needed.
@@JasonExplainsThings Most recently, I built LED strips for under counter lighting. The tape started failing a few months in, but a dot of silicone caulk every 6" secured it. This is a great video, thanks.
That makes total sense. If you check out the update video I talk about this a little. I think one reason the tape works well is because the Reflectix is kinda friction fit into the doors. So the tape isn’t having to support the weight, just keep it stuck in place.
If you glued a piece top and bottom over horizontal hinge of the door, it would be covered, and fold out (bow out) on the way up and down, then sit flat over the hinge when the door is down.
My neighbor across the street needs to see this. His doors are potato chip thin. I have insulated doors and yet the first half of the day totally heats up my space. I may have to look into this.
my first time watching this channel, and I swear the pod racing/spinning part would have had me snorting coffee out my nose had i been drinking my coffee at that time. unexpected and funny! :)
they sell fiber glass or foam panels you can add for extra R value, I did the same to parent garage door, use the Radiant Barrier then layer of white 1" foam board
The problem with all vinyl weather stripping is that the vinyl shrinks over time and will become too short. Overcome this by cutting the vinyl longer than it needs to be at installation. This goes for the door bottom too. Look at your service door and house door weather stripping. You will likely find that they are all now too short.
This project is on the schedule for this fall. How was the rubber strip along the bottom of the door? I thought you might mention that. I’m going to replace mine at the same time I do the insulation and top and side weatherstripping because mine is pretty beat.
Something you can do for your weather stripping, you can use aerospace 303 protectant or any other car trim Uv blocking dressing to help the stripping from rotting away as fast
You have the strip you cut off of the width, you could always run a strip of double stick on either side of the hinge gap and stick those long narrow strips above and below the gaps for a little added heat barrier.
What about the idea of gluing some 1” thick rigid foam insulation cut to fit in each door section / cavity, and then this stuff secured on each panel with a loose three inches overlapping on each panel below to allow for door flex function? There are also ore-insulated doors, which I have. I added rigid foam to the interior of my R5 door and doubled its R-factor.
Came here to say that RUclips's algorithms recommended your channel and I gave you a thumbs up. :) Thanks for the video. Looking forward to your follow up regarding heat abatement and potential cost savings.
It's been great. Not a big improvement in the winter but very noticeable in the summer. It's been in the 110's here, and with this and my Mr Cool mini split heat pump it's in the mid 70's inside the shop.
@@JasonExplainsThings not really fair to compair it with your Mr. Cool turned on (since it would offset / effect any results purely gained from the radiant barrier alone). I am trying to keep my garage cooler than the outside or, at least, less like an oven. My garage is without an AC unit ( but has insulated doors) so I am not sure if this radiant (added to the insulated garage door) will make any difference or not. In your experience so far, can it keep it somewhat cooler or not? Any thoughts?
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
UPDATE VIDEO! Here's the results of this project and answers to your comments! ruclips.net/video/gzqc01BDIEU/видео.html
I would recommend the gorilla glue high temp double sided tape. That two sided tape will get brittle and lose grip and the insulation on the door will come off.
Great tip! 👍
@Clay Johnson How cooler does this make a space?
Liquid nails also makes a caulk-like adhesive that can endure up to 120F or 140F depending on the version.
Another great upgrade is Green Hinges that are spring loaded to keep the door lightly pressed into the edge seals even in high winds and with worn edge seals. I also hear and air condition my 26x38 garage and adding Green Hinges made a very noticeable improvement in my ability to heat the garage in single digits weather with my 38,000 BTU hanging Reznor natural gas furnace.
I love little quality of life projects like this. Also refreshing to see a humble homeowner just going with the flow 👍
This is a very practical approach to reducing heat transmissibility. The weather stripping is very important.
We just turned our second garage bay into an exercise area. I was just looking into doing this to our doors, and behold, the tuber dinged me of a new video from Mr. Jason.
Magic! It's noticeably better for sure. One happy surprise is it makes the garage less echoey... which is nice if you're weird and enjoy making videos in your garage like me.
@@JasonExplainsThings Do you have an update for this video on how much improvement you had?
I have used the reflective material over 8-years ago. It has lasted longer than the double sided carpet tape I found to install. It added no weight to the doors and helps on summer heat.
Your good nature comes through. Love practical people who 'give it a go'. Thank you.
Here's some answers to common questions! Thanks for watching. :-)
#1 HAS THE TAPE HELD UP? Yes, I have not had any peeling at all. And it's the hottest summer ever here. It was 113 degrees a few weeks ago. But use high quality tape and thoroughly clean the doors before applying tape.
#2 WON'T THE INSULATION CAUSE ISSUES WITH THE DOOR OPENING/SPRINGS? No. The radiant barrier is light enough that it doesn't effect the door operation at all. It's also provided some slight soundproofing improvements as well.
#3 THAT THIN CRAP DOES NOTHING! YOU NEED THICK INSULATION! No. That WOULD result in issues with the door opening and closing.
#4 WHAT ARE THE RESULTS?! First, the noticeable soundproofing because of the air pocket between the insulation was apparent immediately. For temperature control it didn't do anything noticeable during the winter, but it's been great in the summer. I don't have any temperature readings (summer weather before/after) because that would require me to take stuff off (installed in January). But the shop doesn't get nearly as hot as it did last summer. This combined with the heat pump I installed has kept the shop comfortable to work, and hang out in all summer.
#5 A NEW GARAGE DOOR WOULD BE BETTER! Yes, of course. But that would cost $2500 or more. This project costs 10% of that.
#6 RADIANT BARRIERS NEED AN AIR GAP! Yes they do. I talk about that at 5:25 and show that I have a 1/2" air gap. This helps with sound and insulation.
But did you win at pod racing?!
I think you'll find that after awhile that 2 - way tape you used dries up and looses its adhesion. That's my experience in using it where I work. Iight have chosen to use a liquid adhesive like a liquid nails type of adhesive.
Thanks for the update. I was debating buying foam boards to install on my doors, however after seeing this product, I’ve changed my mind. I live in Texas and really couldn’t care less about keeping out the cold.
You might want to pin your comment at the top so folks don’t have to scroll through searching for an update 👍
I'm going to go for the double-side adhesive. I figure it'll degrade after a while, but by then I may want to upgrade or repair the insulation. Very nice. Extremely helpful.
One of the first videos that has a garage door like mine so I can actually follow along and update my door. Thanks
lovely! very good idea. I do wish that you had a before and after comparison with a temperature detection gun! and show that the cool spots are gone!
I used the reflective foam boards. Just cut to size. Took a day or two much less heat loss in winter and less gain in summer. It is a lot quieter in the garage now
Those are a lot spendier though?
I did the same, the springs for the garage door needed an adjustment after the foam board was added but it was a nice improvement.
@@dreamingrightnow1174 If you are heating/cooling that space, the higher R value foam board will be a better long-term solution. And to add into this subject of garage insulation; in most areas, if the garage is not heated/cooled and has no living space above it (or is detached), it won't likely have any insulation in the walls/attic whatsoever. If you insulate a space without heating or cooling you risk having mold issues. due to excess condensation. That said, either foam or this foil-wrapped-bubble-wrap will help knock down that radiant heat regardless of your overall garage insulation.
Same. Much easier and more effective.
I put purple foamboard insulation in the inside of my garage door, made all the difference R-value 10 as well as outside weather stripping.
ALSO I had Radiant Barrier installed in my attic (painted roof, attic tent for hole and more insulation in attic as well as sealing can lights. Cut my electric bill on 2500 sq ft from $400-$600 to $150-$200).
Nice. My house has a radiant barrier in the attic as well.
You havea link to the foam board you used? Thanks!
Freaking genius!!!
@S G Awesome idea. Can you share the materials?
@@IbelieveinJesusAmen Radiant barrier is painting attic ceiling, adding more insulation, attic stair tent and sealing all can lights and added LED's light bulbs.
Instead of going horizontally with radiant barrier.. I went vertical.. this allowed for a large airgap between barrier and door panels. The result was even better.. the air gap allowed for much greater difference between outside temp and inside temp. The air gap is key.
Great video. Also used Reflectix on my garage door recently. I ended up using aluminum tape. It worked good, but definitely not as clean looking. Those 90 degree angles can be a bugger.
Thank you!!! All the other videos I’ve seen have garage doors with channels to set the foam boards into. My door is like yours, so this was the most helpful to me. I was about to give up on the idea! I appreciate this so much!!!
Fantastic production quality!
Woah! Thanks Ben. I binged a bunch of your GoPro videos a while back. Yeah I try to push quality on everything I put out. Views are all over the place, but I love doing this just the same.
@@JasonExplainsThings - Haha that's awesome, thanks man!
Giving you a like for the extra happiness you got after finishing lol
Good job. I used the radiant barrier with the double sided tape on metal at one time. After a while the tape started coming off. I ended up using some foil tape around the edges and along the seams. Worked well. But even so, that will probably have to be redone at some point in time too. Tape adhesive does dry up after time. Just my thoughts on the subject. Thanks for your video, well done.
So far so good. But foil tape is a great idea.
I'd use a bead of clear Quad or Lexel. My bets are that in the heat of the day in hot climates, double sided tape adhesive will get gummy and loose its grip long before it dries out and turns to powder.
Gonna do my double door garage today, thanks for this video!
I'd put Velcro on the top and bottom to go over those hinges, that way you can take the insulation off and put it back on if need be
This looks great. You will also love the radiant barrier. Just used some of the same stuff to insulate the floor joists of a cantilevered sunroom (with a supposed R-21 as installed) and it works terrific.
That sound effect you made SHOOOOB !
Try Low-E reflective insulation manufactured here in USA by Environmentally Safe Products in New Oxford PA .. has more stable core and is real aluminum not mylar film
if you have left over radiant barrier you could cut a thicker piece for the seams, so it can flex as the door opens, kind of like those Large 2 part city buses. Might not matter in the end but it might help with Temps.
I was thinking that too. There has to be some sort of solution.
Awesome channel! The insulation looks a lot like the stuff you put on your car windshield. May give it a try on my garage/ woodworking area/ home gym
Some thermal imaging of before and after would've been cool
You and others convinced me. Thermal camera ordered. I'm interested to see the results.
@@JasonExplainsThings I'm glad this vid popped up in my recommendations. Will be looking forward to thermal vision video!
@@JasonExplainsThings awesome! Please show it off when you use it. I purchased a Seek thermal camera and it's come in super handy. Keep up the great content!
Back to Low-E made by Environmentally Safe Products in New Oxford pa. There is metal building roof thermal imaging available on the website under their Low-E product (there are other products available for specific applications) done by professional 3rd party
It's true I don't know how I found you but I like the weather stripping and the insulation I need to do that as well here's a fun video recommendation to do jack stand storage since I see you needed to
Subscribed at the Podracing inserts... confirmed it was the right choice with the very ending! Truly, I laughed out loud.
Nice job. I noticed you might want to consider taking the handles off your emergency door-release ropes. Thieves use coat hangers to slide in and snag the rope and pull to the side. They can release the door and open from the outside. if you take the handle off and melt the tip of the rope, it won't unravel and makes it much harder for someone to pull it loose. Just make sure the rope is not long enough to be pulled all the way outside (cut it off just shy of the door face and melt the end. You can still grab the rope and wrap it around your hand to pull and release it from inside during an emergency.
Or just cover the cord with a thick pool noodle. That makes it virually impossible for thieves to pull the rope from outside and keeps the pull cord usable from the inside.
This is a great idea. Just shared this to the garage gym community on Facebook. You’ll get a ton of traction there im sure
Thanks!
Serious shop envy Jason. Keep us posted on how well this performs in the coming months. Getting a garage/shop designed and built myself at the moment, can't wait to get in & start the fit out 👍
Awesome. It's been slow going but it keeps getting better.
This is something I need to do, so thank you for the entertaining, but informative, tutorial.
Already insulated my garage door but had to click because I love your Thumbnail!
Great video and instructions. Off to Lowes now to get supplies. Wish me luck!
Great video, this is on my bucket list. Will help when cutting my lawn, grass clippings getting into my garage. In addition I would recommend a comment checking the bottom weather-stripping on the garage door for a perfect seal. Again, Thank you for the video and I have subscribed to your channel.
Agreed, mine is in good shape, but I should’ve mentioned it
My dad found this video!
I have been waiting for a video like this! So helpful! Subscribed !!!😊
Now.. we binge on the rest of your videos!
Sweeeeet! Binge on! There’s hundreds at this point.
Great job, Great video!!!
Looks great man! I feel like that'll really help in the summer.
Yeah me too... more benefit in the summer than the winter.
@@JasonExplainsThings Have you seen/felt any improvement? Done any temperature tests? I'm in Houston and have been looking into doing this for my garage, but wasn't sure if the radiant barrier would help, especially if the heat would just flow up the air gap and back into the garage.
Looking back, I see there's no air gap (so not sure it's a "radiant" barrier), but still curious if it works :)
@@willyshoo There's a one inch air gap. I show it at 5:26.
Nice! that radiant barrier is what I need for my doors here in Florida. They face full sun most of the day, are paper thin and dark colored. The trifecta of ingredients to cook the garage to very well done in summer.
Nice, yeah this will help a ton in that situation.
Update?
@AC-bz5br didn't do it yet. Too many projects ahead of it.
Somebody, I forget the name of the company, makes a section of door track that has waves in it at the level where each roller is when the door is all the way down. The waves peak outward, so it pushes the door out....meaning it then seals against the weather stripping, which is the same type used here, plus another layer of foam stripping that creates a really good, tight seal and is solid, the door won’t shake or rattle in the track when the wind blows because the track pushes the door out firmly against the weather stripping. I think it makes a world of difference and the tracks weren’t expensive. Weather stripping was a little more than regular door stripping but not bad. Well worth it. And if you put a new bottom seal on the door as well, you’re in great shape for winter or summer.
Hmm, not sure what you mean but maybe someone else will chime in. I don't really have issues with the door rocking back and forth after doing the new exterior seals. The current bottom seal is in good shape.
@@JasonExplainsThings Consider me that someone else! Lol. I was just watching another video by Matt Risinger and the good ol' algorithm lead me here. ruclips.net/video/h7pEGEyVBLI/видео.html Sounds like you're talking about ThermoTraks. Matt details the product pretty well but essentially it's a replacement track that, rather than being straight, bumps forward at each hinge so when the door is all the way down, the whole thing pushes forward for an even better seal. Matt does a better job explaining it than I do. Looks like it would really complement the work you've already done. Great video, BTW! I just subscribed. Looking forward to even more great content!
Use cilcone sealant which withstands over 500 degrees to bond the insulation. 😊
I work for Reflectix.. Nice job on the install!!
Awesome, thanks Todd.
arent you supposed to have a half inch minimum space in between the metal and the reflectix??
@brian bailey in an insulation install where you are looking to gain R value yes, an air space is recommended. insulation works by trapping an air space. To do this all sides must be sealed off. In a garage door application however, you aren't necessarily trying to gain R value but rather add a reflective barrier. In Jason's application, he added double bubble Reflectix so he gained the R value of just the bubble which is R1.1 and also gained a radiant barrier which blocks 96% of radiant heat in both directions meaning that in the summer his doors only transmit 4% of the sun's energy through his door and in the winter he retains 96% of his heat source that used to be transferred through his door. I hope this makes sense.
@@toddhare8225 it does make sense and tns a lot for clarifying all that. I would think tho that if he were to have sealed of the perimeter and also found way to create that air gap it would be even better.
I have a question.. what constitutes "air" in this scenario for reflectix. Can loose sheep wool for example still be considered air? It would add R Value but also not conduct heat....or would foam board and then a layer of reflectix work?
@brian bailey no problem. The issue with creating an air space on a garage door is the the door becomes thicker and in some cases too thick to operate correctly. Yes a trapped air space is better and could increase the R value up to an R4.1 in this application.
All insulation work by trapping air spaces. So yes, in wool or fiberglass insulation there is air trapped within the fibers. This is why a fiberglass R13 is reduced when you smash the product down. You didn't remove any product but you do remove air.
THIS REALLY MAKES A DIFFERENCE. I USED FOIL TYPE. MY GARAGE DOORS BAKE IN FULL SUN ALDAY. REDUCED HEAT BY ALEAST 20 DEGREES 👍👍❤️💋
Tha. t radiant barrier rolls is what they put under the roof in the Philippines . If the ceiling has already been put in , they put it against the ceiling . The white side out and silver side in, as well against any walls . It supposedly has greatly reduced the heat there has it gets HOT and HUMID .
Good job! I'm going to do a version of what you did to my garage. Gained alot of knowledge from this video!
Hell ya lets gooooo, im about to do this too , thanks for the tips
How many digits do you have dropped off in side after you do the Insolation? Thanks and God Bless you!!!
Looks good. I need to do some weather stripping to my garage door.
awesome video and I learned a lot
Thanks James. It turned out well I think.
Would have been nice to see the temperature readings before and after.
This works. I did it on my garage doors about 4 years ago. With nothing, I took a temp reading during summer in So Cal and it was 120* on the inside of the door. I did a similar install and then took a reading after completing and the interior door read 90* in similar conditions.
Check out the update video.
Great video! Like that insulation! Thanks for sharing! 👍
Liked and subscribed for two reasons: 1. - good information delivered at a good pace (not a lot of useless over-explaining or off-topic backstory) 2. - didn’t START the video asking to subscribe and hit the bell. Can’t tell you how irritating that is. How do I know if I’ll like, and want to subscribe, before even watching the video?
Thanks man. Nagging for subs/likes is awkward for sure. I try to do it as not-annoying as possible. But growing a channel is really hard. This video has blown up magically, but most of my stuff doesn't get much love.
One key dilemma in such a project, in the cold of winter I welcome the heat from the sunlight beating on the metal.
I wish there was an easy seasonally adjustable solution.
I'm just stopping to say RUclips recommended this video and your channel to me. Nice garage door upgrades. I've seen people use the rigid foam insulation for their doors. This seems like a much easier solution. Hope it works out great for you.
I was just saying that... GOD yes!
I think the rigid foam is more effective; Higher "R"
@@robertmathers7852 I’m in Texas so that is definitely good to know
@@ImAlwaysFrisky seems you could try to do the radiant barrier, with a rigid foam layer on top? I mean, you lose the pretty silver appearance, but it might bounce heat and act as an insular thermal barrier(?) too.
You can also place a piece of pipe insulation in the bottom weather seal to ensure ground contact.
Good point. That seal was in good shape, but I should’ve mentioned that as well.
One thing to add fyi is in cold areas that gap may n probably will condensate n drip upon working the door. It’s very difficult to actually seal up the panels long term.
Maybe in more humid areas but I've never seen that.
You ought to saw off those bars hanging down from the garage door opener mechanism. If you accidentally close the door when you rear tail door is open it will get badly scratched. Cutting it off can provide clearance .
On thing I've found with double-tape is after a few months or years it can let go. It helps if you add a single thin bead of caulk around the edge. The tape will hold it in place until it dries, the caulk won't let go but can still be removed in the future if needed.
Cool tip. In January it'll have been in place for a year. I've had zero issues.
@@JasonExplainsThings Most recently, I built LED strips for under counter lighting. The tape started failing a few months in, but a dot of silicone caulk every 6" secured it. This is a great video, thanks.
That makes total sense. If you check out the update video I talk about this a little. I think one reason the tape works well is because the Reflectix is kinda friction fit into the doors. So the tape isn’t having to support the weight, just keep it stuck in place.
Great instructional video
Hey mate, those Star Wars effects look cutting edge! Just make sure you include plenty of Jar Jar and it should be a hit! hee hee.
I ALSO USED POOL NOODLES FOR INTERIOR. GARAGE DOOR CAN FREELY MOVE. JUST SLIT THEM IN HALF
If you glued a piece top and bottom over horizontal hinge of the door, it would be covered, and fold out (bow out) on the way up and down, then sit flat over the hinge when the door is down.
Here’s a tip. Use gorilla double sided tape. It’s never going to be an adhesive issue.
My neighbor across the street needs to see this. His doors are potato chip thin. I have insulated doors and yet the first half of the day totally heats up my space. I may have to look into this.
It’s not a magic bullet but it definitely made the old doors a little better. :-)
my first time watching this channel, and I swear the pod racing/spinning part would have had me snorting coffee out my nose had i been drinking my coffee at that time. unexpected and funny! :)
🤣
Would love to hire this guy!
They also have seals for the inside side of the doors and I believe a seal for the top of the door.
great video brother
Saved the video in my browser last week and finally made time to watch it. Glad I did. Have you noticed any changes with the electricity bill?
Nice workshop
they sell fiber glass or foam panels you can add for extra R value, I did the same to parent garage door, use the Radiant Barrier then layer of white 1" foam board
The problem with all vinyl weather stripping is that the vinyl shrinks over time and will become too short. Overcome this by cutting the vinyl longer than it needs to be at installation. This goes for the door bottom too. Look at your service door and house door weather stripping. You will likely find that they are all now too short.
This project is on the schedule for this fall. How was the rubber strip along the bottom of the door? I thought you might mention that.
I’m going to replace mine at the same time I do the insulation and top and side weatherstripping because mine is pretty beat.
Sweet video man
tnx for the info,i will do this to my door in a few days
Something you can do for your weather stripping, you can use aerospace 303 protectant or any other car trim Uv blocking dressing to help the stripping from rotting away as fast
Good tip. Any kind of foam strips can't take UV for long.
excellent video
Great Vid!!
Could you use another insulation, along with the reflectix to keep garage warmer in the winter?
Please keep mind it might add more.
weight to your garage doors. Not sure if that is a good idea
Excellent video
After a few years it will be nice to know if the double sided tape holds up to the heat and cool and does not become detached.
Thinking the same thing
If it does, one could use 3M's VHB tape. (Very High Bond)
Anytime you add anything to your door you have to adjust the spring tension. The door will be heavier and will cause issues in the future.
Cool. Still waiting on those issues. I have an update video on this project if you want to see my thought process.
@@JasonExplainsThings if you can open the door halfway and it doesn't slam shut, it's fine right?
You have the strip you cut off of the width, you could always run a strip of double stick on either side of the hinge gap and stick those long narrow strips above and below the gaps for a little added heat barrier.
Nice job , little things we all need , have a basement project coming up , have you done anything like that?
The shop is looking great!
What about the idea of gluing some 1” thick rigid foam insulation cut to fit in each door section / cavity, and then this stuff secured on each panel with a loose three inches overlapping on each panel below to allow for door flex function? There are also ore-insulated doors, which I have. I added rigid foam to the interior of my R5 door and doubled its R-factor.
how is the double sided tape holding up on those south facing doors?
Thanks for sharing .
Would love an update on what difference these make during the summer.
It’s in the cards. I ordered a thermal camera.
Good job bravo.
Owens Corning door insulation kits have a better R value (8) and look nicer because the backing is white. Expensive but worth the money.
Don't worry, this was in my recommended. Badass video though, I'll more than likely be doing the reflectix on my garage door now lol.
Excellent Thanks!
Great idea!!
Thanks! It's worked out great. Especially in the summer months.
Awesome idea 👍🏾
looks great, going to do it my garage this weekend in the Pacific NW.
You’ll love it. I’m definitely noticing a difference.
@@JasonExplainsThings Is it keeping your garage cooler?
@@roadsta97 Yes, very much so. That combined with the heat pump keeps it very comfortable.
Great video, thank you!
Came here to say that RUclips's algorithms recommended your channel and I gave you a thumbs up. :) Thanks for the video. Looking forward to your follow up regarding heat abatement and potential cost savings.
It's been great. Not a big improvement in the winter but very noticeable in the summer. It's been in the 110's here, and with this and my Mr Cool mini split heat pump it's in the mid 70's inside the shop.
@@JasonExplainsThings not really fair to compair it with your Mr. Cool turned on (since it would offset / effect any results purely gained from the radiant barrier alone). I am trying to keep my garage cooler than the outside or, at least, less like an oven. My garage is without an AC unit ( but has insulated doors) so I am not sure if this radiant (added to the insulated garage door) will make any difference or not. In your experience so far, can it keep it somewhat cooler or not? Any thoughts?
Man... your garage is so awesome! Jealous!
It’s getting there slowly. There’s videos about each improvement in there. 👍
@@JasonExplainsThings Yeah! They are great! Loved the video on the shelves and on the lights! Great channel and content!