Great video, I'm also in central WA, I did this to my garage door about 8 years back and made some mistakes, but also had some success. Exact same style of garage door too. I did 1" foam board and reflectix, I attached it to the door using foam adhesive to attach everything. It ended up adding almost 20 pounds to the door so I had to adjust the springs a bit which wasn't as easy as I expected. However, I did one thing that was not done in your video, I covered everything(hinge area included) with the reflectix. Reflectix is very flexible and it never tore or failed, Where I needed to open it up for maintenance I just cut a slit down the middle and left it, Every time the garage door closes it closes the gap and still provides insulation. What I learned from what I did: -foam weighs too much, I'm doing it again on another garage door, and I'm going with just 1 layer of reflictix but I'll use aluminum tape to mount it again and I'll mount it to the ribs folding in a 2" section on the ends to close the air gap. -Foam glue failed after 3 years, would not use it again. -Aluminum tape did work, lasted a lot longer except where the foam glue failed it eventually wore out. However, the surface needs to be very clean before applying the tape.(note, if you use aluminum tape, your radian barrier sits on top of the ribs with the tape going around the top and bottom of the ribs. I had to re-do some of the insulation a few years ago and used an off brand aluminum tape, and it didn't last nearly as long. Maybe it was bad tape, maybe I didn't clean it well enough. -reflectix lasts an incredibly long time and is very forgiving material I stumbled on the original video trying to find a fix for a garage door seal issue, but I stayed for the full course.
@@delvalle9256Yes, I am wondering the same damned thing. I need to do something with my attic, because it is just too hot in Texas. Our electric bill last month was $500 bucks, and it's usually $200/$250. Very hot summer.
When you use an IR thermometer, the reading depends on more than just the temperature of the surface. It also depends on the emissivity of the surface. And the emissivity is much different between your radiant insulation and your white garage door. So the temperature difference readings are not reliable. You can mitigate it to some extent by taping a piece of white paper to each surface to be compared, and measuring the temperature of the paper surface. Or better yet, just use a contact thermometer. By the way, IR thermometers are particularly bad at measuring the temperature of shiny surfaces accurately.
And that information comes with the devices he using... so he's an effing hack trying to make money by pretending he's smart enough to show the world how to do sh^&! RUclips is just a disaster these days. Ugh
@@DiffEQ assuming he read the info in the packaging cause lets be honest who does that and for those that do who understands it. its more fun to just pull it out and use it.
According to the Powers that be you are supposed to have a 1 inch distance between the Radiant Barrier and the nearest surface. I have actually used the 4ft wide version on 2 Total House Gut outs and Cut MY HVAC bill by 80%. 2 inches spray foam, then the Radiant Barrier across the studs. Then Tape all seams corners etc so that there was a continuous Radiant Barrier surface between the inside and the outside. I Lived in New Jersey. Had to turn the A/C on for about 2 weeks in the summer. The heat went from coming on every hour to coming on every 4 or 5 hours. You Might want to try adding an Extra 2 inches to your height and width so that it pillows out a little. You Might get better heat reduction out of it. YOu could also use the 4ft wide stuff cover the whole door with the Radiant Barrier leave needed slack and you might be able to get even better results. But nice to see that even without the 1 inch space it still works.
2 years ago I had a foam guy spray foam my doors with 3'' foam weighs lot more than what you used. 2 years later still opening fine. was expensive yes but now I can keep my garage warmer and cooler than my living room! also sprayed the celling not to mention 24'' cellulose above ceiling. The fiberglass garage door insulation kits do very little been there done that. My garage is wooden structure I built like a dwelling 3/4 plywood floors on 2x8's on 12'' centers it holds my 1/2 ton truck NP. I enjoy working when Im comfortable and in Texas it gets way over 100 DEGREES! 106 today.
old Florida ECOhome Designer/Builder here (since '79), and ALL my homes have had radiant barrier in the top chord of trusses. ALL were VERY-efficient, and minimal cost!! My latest ECOhome's electric bill in SW FL, USA for 8/2024 was $44!! 🙂
I've only always used the less-expensive type, being simply paper-backed. The expensive plastic-layered air bubble type, as shown in the vid, is overkill for radiant barrier's effectiveness! Your welcome 🙂
I hit subscribe for two reasons; One, because I ran across this video first and before finishing it went to watch your install as I have the same style garage doors and this really helped me with my install as I have the same material but plan on adding the poly pro board over the top if there’s room but thank you very much for the doubled sided tape tip. Two, because I liked your Star Wars fan film and it was something only a fan + dad could really appreciate on so many different levels. I’m formerly from WA but live in NJ now.
The IR reflection of aluminum is very high, so with IR gun or IR camera you are measuring temperature of IR reflections from the inside of the room off of the aluminum surface, not the amount of heat coming through the barrier. You can spray a small area of foil with paint or put some black electrical tape on surface and it will then represent the heat coming through the foil. What ever you use must have good thermal conductive contact to foil and not be reflective to IR wavelength.
The temperature of the foil isn't very useful information... showing the temperature of the garage door from the outside would be the best way to show how well the heat is being rejected from the garage. The outside temperature where the reflective panels are should be considerably higher than the temperature where heat is being transmitted into the garage
Temperature is not the same as heat flow. 2 different but related concepts. for the high reflectivity materials, it is tricky. use a contact thermometer to measure the surface temp. This temperature will cause the convection of air. Radiant should be negligible.
You put the barrier directly on the door without an air gap. Don’t radiant barriers require an air gap for best results? Looking to insulate my hot Florida garage.
OMG! I love the shout-out, and the long awaited showing of your Star Wars Fan Film! I don’t know who had the name first either, but regardless, I’m so glad I was suggested your channel just a little over a year ago. I’ve enjoyed every episode you’ve made, and maybe your mountain climbing film will finally hit big like your previous garage door video did, because that one was amazing. Anywho, thanks again for using my comment, and following through on the film, I loved it! Take care man!
Great video man.....I live where it is 100 plus at least half the year. I used that product under the carpet in my truck. Great results and minimized outside sound.
I have similar garage doors, I did what you did, but for an additional layer, I used spray adhesive and did an entire sheet from top to bottom on the garage door. The hinge position (when door shut) are at their furthest apart so lifting the door means the insulation will crease but not come off. Putting that second layer in created a nice air gap in the door and it was far far better.
Thanks for showing us this. I need to do something with my attic, because it is just too hot in Texas. Our electric bill last month was $500 bucks, and it's usually $200/$250. Very hot summer.
I did the same with my doors.. same model.. I was able to put the insulation at the joints. After I put it there, I took a box knife and slices it in the middle so it could bend when open. When closes, the two sides come together and seal. So you can get the joints too. For me I used that spray glue, Super 77 I think it was. I live in a hot humid environment and freezing during winter and after 5 years, no issues and help retain the cool and warm temperatures inside.
Nice job. 👍 I'd see your glue idea as a good option for high humidity areas. In Central WA we get extreme heat and cold, but humidity is pretty low year round.
I grew up in Sunnyside WA, and it would get hot during the summer. I now live in the South end of the San Joaquin Valley in California and it is miserable. So if this works I will be using this product.
Fresno here - I just did this and took it one step further by covering the gaps between panels with smaller strips of reflectix and foil tape and there haven't been any issues when the garage door moves. Garage faces east and at over 100 degrees outside the garage temp was comfortable at 71. Before, it would get into the low 80's!
Loved the video. Actually subscribed because of your attitude. I am very pleased to see that you addressed the idiots out there so well. Most of them are not "experts" either. Sometimes we just need a review of the ideas we have already come up with, and you have provided it. Thank you.
great info, I found used insulated doors and replaced my 1950 versions. But I have my brother in law to help and we are thinking foam board but I may consider sandwiching reflection material between the foam board and the garage door. This should... in theory, help the heat be reflected in summer and maintain the warmth inside in winter. Also, I find it is very easy to adjust garage doors if we add too much weight. It is really an easy process if you follow the way the pros do it. Great video, and I have to say, the ending rivals the silliness of JarJar Binks. Great to see you having fun.
Using some soft enclosure foam on the hinge joint and cheap EPS foam in end of each panel as a spacer would allow the entire door to be covered and give air space inside the doors panels to allow the radiant barrier some of the air space it actually is designed for.
Fun video for sure. I too have looked at the cost of a new insulated door, compared to DIY like this. ROI is a huge factor. If you have 3k and don't care, go for it right? I read some comments about a larger air gap for the RB - which will provide a couple degree's cooler probably. There is still plenty of metal on your door left exposed which radiates heat. You're spot on about gaps at the edge of the panels where it meets the weather strip being a problem. I found a cheap solution - a spring loaded door hinge. Look up "Green Hinge System". I have a southern facing garage door that acts like a frying pan in the summer. I did the reflective radiant barrier but I also put another RB that has the silver reflective material laminated to a thin soft foam back layer (advertised at being R-8 equivalent). I cut the reflective barrier to size so I could wedge it inside the door panels keeping them in place place and stand away from the door for a better air gap. I then used the double sided foam tape on the outside edge of the panels to hold the foam layer giving me 2 layers. (I did the install of the 2 layers a few days apart, and could feel a noticeable difference just walking next to the door during a week of 95+ degree weather. Before 1st layer - it radiated heat like crazy and could be felt from 3 feet away. After first layer, it was a huge difference - could still feel heat a few inches away. The heat was localized and felt when I put a hand near exposed metal edge of each panel - but not in the center of it. After the 2nd layer, I no longer feel any heat radiating heat off of it. I feel a few degrees difference from room temperature when touching the foam layer. Unfortunately I didn't take any measurements). I later added the Green Hinge System (wish I could have done first, but found the product months after adding the insulation). It closes off the gap and doesn't allow the wind to blow the door edge open during storms. I figure I'm still at 10% of the cost of a new insulated door and somewhere between 1/2 to 2/3 of the R value if you take the DIY products at their advertised ratings. Thanks again for sharing - wish I had thought to document my install, but more so, wish I could convey it as succinctly and entertaining as you did!
I’ve had this product on my sun facing windows every year for last 10 years and yes it drops the cost of your air significantly! And if you air conditioner ever breaks it’s a LIFESAVER!
The reading on the non contact thermometer depends on the emissivity of the surface. If you want an accurate measurement then put some PVC tape on the surface and measure the temperature of that. You will need to be real close to ensure the full sensor field of view is enveloped by the tape... Or just use a contact thermometer...
To check the weight of your garage door unhook it from the opener and open half way if it stays put your hood if it slams you are screwed. 3 Turns for every foot of door if you need to tighten your springs.
Ok people. You can get that bubble wrap reflective insulation at a HVACsupply house in a big roll about 4’ x 50’ roll for about half of what Home Depot sells enough for one garage door for. So check around !!!!
Good job man i have been looking for videos and guidance on this as I want to insulate my garage. So many options and so many ways to do it. Thanks for creating this, i will now try this at my house.
you want to keep the heat out from warming the door in the first place, might be a good idea to glue reflective insulation (not bubble wrap) to the exterior of the door, or even painting it with reflective paint might help
Thanks Daniel. Yeah I’ve heard the foam board can work great may need to just adjust the springs or upgrade to beefier ones. I’ve installed openers before, but I leave springs to the pros.
keep in mind aluminum is a very strong conductor of heat. It works by blocking radiant transfer of heat (the air gap between the door surface and the reflectix ). If the aluminum (reflectix) contact with the metal door is reduced to a minimum, it would probably be even more effective. But it looks like it works well enough for your purposes.
I think the question about garage doors opening was related to the remote control not the weight of the insulation. Did the metallic nature of the insulation effect the operation of the remotes?
Apparently the person say to just replace tne floors is not a homeowner or someone paying attention to our planet. Dump perfectly good doors into the landfill isn't such a great idea. And in Alaska I just quoted replacing 2 panels and it confetti in at nearly $900.00. I have tne best doors you can buy and paid $1200 extra (on top of the price) for extra support to buck 80 mph wind and higher insulation barrier. As a good homeowner, you will always have mother nature elements and, some homeowners will go above and beyond to make our homes the best we can for efficiency & comfort. What is a concern for one, may not be for another. I appreciate you explaining hot and cold as, what would work for my brother in Florida, wouldn't do much for me in Alaska. Also explaining the humidity. You cover all the things most don't think of. BOTH the install, then questions& answers were GREAT DIY VIDEOS!
What I wanted to know was not the garage door heat difference but the overall garage temperature. Do you recall how much the entire garage temperature went down by?
I'm in the process of doing this now with the same method you used. My door is completely flat so no cavity for an air barrier. The only thing I'm doing in addition is using is foil tape to seal the areas around the hinge hardware. I had it lying around so I figured it may be worth it to try out. I was hoping it would slow the the heat escaping in the winter when I'm working on the Jeeps but it may have little to no effect if that didn't work for your far more mild winters in Washington. Thanks for the videos.
@@JasonExplainsThings My door is insulated as it came from the manufacturer. .... maybe 15 years old? I don't know what R value it is but I would assume it is the minimum as this was a pretty cheap house to buy overall. If it helps me retain heat in the winter so I don't have to run the heater so much I can let you know.
It looks like you installed the barrier directly to the face of the door panel. You would really see a benefit if you installed the barrier on the horizontal “structure” of each panel, giving you about a 1” air gap between the barrier and the panel face. The way you have the barrier installed, you are only gaining the air gap between the two foil faces. Because you have direct contact to the panel face, you have conductive heat transfer between the panel face and the mating foil face of the barrier. I would suggest trying to install a piece of barrier that a bit wider to span the bent edges of the panel and comparing to a barrier that’s mounted directly to the face.
Same dilemma here.........FiberGlass is 22 lbs for double door OR Foam is 14 lbs OR Reflection is 7.3114159 lbs. I can tell you are in engineering or work for SpaceX. Thanks and love your the video.
Hi Jason, its very informative. QQ my garage door is metalic and has small panels with about half to 3/4 inch sliding option for reflex membrane to go in. Should I tape it with the panel so its secured from sides or on the outside edgers to make it smooth as it looks in your video. Please advise. Thank you
You should end every video filmed in your garage with a new scene for your Star Wars fan film. Freaking hilarious!! Best work day break, and possibly best ending to any DIY video on RUclips. Shame to the people with no sense of humor.
My understanding of radiant barriers are that they stop and then collect or re-radiate the heat caused by UV radiation. Then that heat needs to dissipate through an air gap and vent to the outside. Attics with radiant barriers are vented to the outside. My guess is that you are seeing benefits mostly from the insulation / thermal break and I also bet the radiant barrier is reflecting heat back into the door making it hotter?
Jason, I have a poured concrete floor - I just purchased this home. The concrete GARAGE floor is cracked - reasonably large cracks in the floor. Is there a way, a material which you would suggest for repairing these cracks? Thanks, my friend. GREAT videos.
From what I understand, you're supposed to use something like a piece of tape over the insulation so that you can get an accurate reading. Otherwise, you're just getting the reflection from inside the shop as opposed to the actual temp on the other side of the insulation.
For me...with a garage facing westward in Florida with no trees to block the sun...it isn't the AIR it's the sun induced radiant heat. This would be fine. I worry about baking off the paint on the fron of the door panels though!!
I realize this is an old video but for people looking at this there are a couple things you should know. Infrared technology is great but temperature and images can be misleading if one is not familiar with the technology. The surface of the foil is shiny and highly reflective. The IR camera and thermometer is picking up the reflected temperature of the room. To properly measure the surface temp, the emissivity of the foil and the reflected temp must be known so the actual temperature can be calculated
I'm late to the party, but what if you double the barrier on each panel. Would the R rating double? if you have excess material please try it and get back with an answer to see whether it works. thanks
The red dot isn't where you're measuring. They measure a cone, so the further you are away form the surface, the larger area you are measuring the average temperature of. Try pointing it at a candle flame and moving it away and watch the number drop.
I live in a 16ft contractor trailer looking for a lightweight isolation I only have one inch so it needs to be thin and lightweight it gets incredibly hot in the summer and as low as -14deg in winter do you think this would be a good option??? Was thinking about spray foam insulation
For MUCH better performance, make sure there's about an inch of empty space between the garage door and the radiant barrier. Being flush against the door surface, you're mostly acting as insulation. Aluminum is a great conductor and, as you installed it, it's conducting the heat from the door.
I think you may have missed the point on the two-sided tape. I don't believe weight is the issue. It's the heat and cold the tape must endure over the years being stuck to the garage door. Your video was great though. Lots of good information, especially about the weight and it's effect on the operation of the door. I've been considering a number of options over the last couple of years and I have been leaning towards the Reflectix product, both for ease of installation and weight. The mystery has always been how well it works in summer. Your video answered that for me.
Haha We have a similar sense of humor! Love the videos! Though for the life of me I can't figure out why you didn't go with the E6000 and the bradnailer.
Looks great. I've been reading up on this product. I m reading that you need to leave an air gap. If the radiant barrier is in contact w the hot surface, then the conductive heat properties kick in and negate the intent of the radiant barrier. But I do like the evidence u show of a delta of 10 degrees. Your thoughts on the air gap?
@@JasonExplainsThings gotcha. Just finished using insulfoam- lol didn’t seem heavy at all. I’ve seen someone use it with reflectix on top and I’m a long time reflectix user so we’ll see how it goes
Awesome! I love your quality videos great work I wish i had your editing skills. #goals I just did a foam board insulation video and tested it for cold weather last winter, and now you reminded me that I should have probably tested the results for Summer heat as well. And now i want an infrared camera LOL
I don’t understand how it can’t work in winter, if you insulate something with this it’ll reflect the heat and make it escape at a slower rate wouldn’t it? It’s not gunna keep stuff warm by itself but in addition to other insulation it’ll definitely warm keep it warmer for longer as it’ll trap the heat inside
Dont point a thermal camera at a shiny surface and believe the results use some black tape and look at it then as reflective surfaces mess up the readings of ir cameras and it show a huge difference.
Thanks for the tip! If I do future thermal camera tests I'll be sure to do that. I'm confident that in general the results of this project are positive. The reflectix is noticeably cooler to the touch than what's behind it. I'm also putting a pin in this topic. No more garage door videos unless they need to be replaced. I'm happy with the results. Take the info for what it's worth to you. :-)
Have you thought about putting strips to bridge the gaps in better refletix? Like leave some slack in it where the door hinges so it doesn't tear off? Have not seen anyone try it yet.
Love the humor. Wish I could like the video twice! My garage needs more insulation and I am trying to find a way to do it without blowing in insulation or ripping out the Sheetrock. Not looking forward to it.
One method I've seen (if you have attic access) is to cut holes in the top plate and fill the cavities from above... and then plug the holes. They did that in my old house... from the first year or so of my channel.
You could also cut round holes in the interior drywall and blow in cellulose insulation from above. I believe plastic, paintable covers for the holes are available. Easier than drilling holes through the upper wall plate. This assumes that your garage is ok with the look of the covers.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video,
I'm also in central WA, I did this to my garage door about 8 years back and made some mistakes, but also had some success. Exact same style of garage door too. I did 1" foam board and reflectix, I attached it to the door using foam adhesive to attach everything. It ended up adding almost 20 pounds to the door so I had to adjust the springs a bit which wasn't as easy as I expected.
However, I did one thing that was not done in your video, I covered everything(hinge area included) with the reflectix. Reflectix is very flexible and it never tore or failed, Where I needed to open it up for maintenance I just cut a slit down the middle and left it, Every time the garage door closes it closes the gap and still provides insulation.
What I learned from what I did:
-foam weighs too much, I'm doing it again on another garage door, and I'm going with just 1 layer of reflictix but I'll use aluminum tape to mount it again and I'll mount it to the ribs folding in a 2" section on the ends to close the air gap.
-Foam glue failed after 3 years, would not use it again.
-Aluminum tape did work, lasted a lot longer except where the foam glue failed it eventually wore out. However, the surface needs to be very clean before applying the tape.(note, if you use aluminum tape, your radian barrier sits on top of the ribs with the tape going around the top and bottom of the ribs. I had to re-do some of the insulation a few years ago and used an off brand aluminum tape, and it didn't last nearly as long. Maybe it was bad tape, maybe I didn't clean it well enough.
-reflectix lasts an incredibly long time and is very forgiving material
I stumbled on the original video trying to find a fix for a garage door seal issue, but I stayed for the full course.
Wow, lots of great info. Thanks for sharing.
Did you insulate the garage attic / ceiling also … how about the walls?
@@delvalle9256Yes, I am wondering the same damned thing. I need to do something with my attic, because it is just too hot in Texas. Our electric bill last month was $500 bucks, and it's usually $200/$250. Very hot summer.
@@PoeLemicWe had the same issue here in CA. We had solar installed and it’s been amazing. Our bill is almost non existent.
I'm in western Washington and glad to find a youtuber I'm Washington state ! I'm now a subscriber!
When you use an IR thermometer, the reading depends on more than just the temperature of the surface. It also depends on the emissivity of the surface. And the emissivity is much different between your radiant insulation and your white garage door. So the temperature difference readings are not reliable. You can mitigate it to some extent by taping a piece of white paper to each surface to be compared, and measuring the temperature of the paper surface. Or better yet, just use a contact thermometer.
By the way, IR thermometers are particularly bad at measuring the temperature of shiny surfaces accurately.
And that information comes with the devices he using... so he's an effing hack trying to make money by pretending he's smart enough to show the world how to do sh^&! RUclips is just a disaster these days. Ugh
Thanks for making this important point which invalidates the testing.
So tell us how you did it.@@DiffEQ
@@DiffEQ assuming he read the info in the packaging cause lets be honest who does that and for those that do who understands it. its more fun to just pull it out and use it.
I came here to say this. This poor guy is clueless on this subject!
According to the Powers that be you are supposed to have a 1 inch distance between the Radiant Barrier and the nearest surface. I have actually used the 4ft wide version on 2 Total House Gut outs and Cut MY HVAC bill by 80%. 2 inches spray foam, then the Radiant Barrier across the studs. Then Tape all seams corners etc so that there was a continuous Radiant Barrier surface between the inside and the outside. I Lived in New Jersey. Had to turn the A/C on for about 2 weeks in the summer. The heat went from coming on every hour to coming on every 4 or 5 hours. You Might want to try adding an Extra 2 inches to your height and width so that it pillows out a little. You Might get better heat reduction out of it. YOu could also use the 4ft wide stuff cover the whole door with the Radiant Barrier leave needed slack and you might be able to get even better results. But nice to see that even without the 1 inch space it still works.
2 years ago I had a foam guy spray foam my doors with 3'' foam weighs lot more than what you used. 2 years later still opening fine. was expensive yes but now I can keep my garage warmer and cooler than my living room! also sprayed the celling not to mention 24'' cellulose above ceiling. The fiberglass garage door insulation kits do very little been there done that. My garage is wooden structure I built like a dwelling 3/4 plywood floors on 2x8's on 12'' centers it holds my 1/2 ton truck NP. I enjoy working when Im comfortable and in Texas it gets way over 100 DEGREES! 106 today.
How much did it weigh? Product?
old Florida ECOhome Designer/Builder here (since '79), and ALL my homes have had radiant barrier in the top chord of trusses. ALL were VERY-efficient, and minimal cost!! My latest ECOhome's electric bill in SW FL, USA for 8/2024 was $44!! 🙂
I've only always used the less-expensive type, being simply paper-backed. The expensive plastic-layered air bubble type, as shown in the vid, is overkill for radiant barrier's effectiveness! Your welcome 🙂
You are a top notch RUclipsr! Honest, entertaining, and good quality content.
exactly what I have been looking for. always great when these how-to vids contain links to the material
I hit subscribe for two reasons; One, because I ran across this video first and before finishing it went to watch your install as I have the same style garage doors and this really helped me with my install as I have the same material but plan on adding the poly pro board over the top if there’s room but thank you very much for the doubled sided tape tip.
Two, because I liked your Star Wars fan film and it was something only a fan + dad could really appreciate on so many different levels.
I’m formerly from WA but live in NJ now.
The IR reflection of aluminum is very high, so with IR gun or IR camera you are measuring temperature of IR reflections from the inside of the room off of the aluminum surface, not the amount of heat coming through the barrier.
You can spray a small area of foil with paint or put some black electrical tape on surface and it will then represent the heat coming through the foil. What ever you use must have good thermal conductive contact to foil and not be reflective to IR wavelength.
The temperature of the foil isn't very useful information... showing the temperature of the garage door from the outside would be the best way to show how well the heat is being rejected from the garage. The outside temperature where the reflective panels are should be considerably higher than the temperature where heat is being transmitted into the garage
Temperature is not the same as heat flow. 2 different but related concepts. for the high reflectivity materials, it is tricky. use a contact thermometer to measure the surface temp. This temperature will cause the convection of air. Radiant should be negligible.
You put the barrier directly on the door without an air gap. Don’t radiant barriers require an air gap for best results? Looking to insulate my hot Florida garage.
OMG! I love the shout-out, and the long awaited showing of your Star Wars Fan Film! I don’t know who had the name first either, but regardless, I’m so glad I was suggested your channel just a little over a year ago. I’ve enjoyed every episode you’ve made, and maybe your mountain climbing film will finally hit big like your previous garage door video did, because that one was amazing. Anywho, thanks again for using my comment, and following through on the film, I loved it! Take care man!
Wait so who came first?
@@wadeduvall7026 pretty sure Jason had his first.
Great video man.....I live where it is 100 plus at least half the year. I used that product under the carpet in my truck. Great results and minimized outside sound.
I have similar garage doors, I did what you did, but for an additional layer, I used spray adhesive and did an entire sheet from top to bottom on the garage door. The hinge position (when door shut) are at their furthest apart so lifting the door means the insulation will crease but not come off.
Putting that second layer in created a nice air gap in the door and it was far far better.
Ryan, would you mind? posting a pic of your garage so i can see how it looks.
Thanks for showing us this. I need to do something with my attic, because it is just too hot in Texas. Our electric bill last month was $500 bucks, and it's usually $200/$250. Very hot summer.
Prep work is key for sure. Thank you for the follow-up video answering the questions alot if us probably had, much appreciated.
I did the same with my doors.. same model.. I was able to put the insulation at the joints. After I put it there, I took a box knife and slices it in the middle so it could bend when open. When closes, the two sides come together and seal. So you can get the joints too. For me I used that spray glue, Super 77 I think it was. I live in a hot humid environment and freezing during winter and after 5 years, no issues and help retain the cool and warm temperatures inside.
Nice job. 👍 I'd see your glue idea as a good option for high humidity areas. In Central WA we get extreme heat and cold, but humidity is pretty low year round.
I've been looking at a lot of videos on this topic and this one is about the best thanks
I grew up in Sunnyside WA, and it would get hot during the summer. I now live in the South end of the San Joaquin Valley in California and it is miserable. So if this works I will be using this product.
Fresno here - I just did this and took it one step further by covering the gaps between panels with smaller strips of reflectix and foil tape and there haven't been any issues when the garage door moves. Garage faces east and at over 100 degrees outside the garage temp was comfortable at 71. Before, it would get into the low 80's!
Loved the video. Actually subscribed because of your attitude. I am very pleased to see that you addressed the idiots out there so well. Most of them are not "experts" either. Sometimes we just need a review of the ideas we have already come up with, and you have provided it. Thank you.
Thanks for the update! I have a south facing garage and I am considering Reflectix to help with the heat.
great info, I found used insulated doors and replaced my 1950 versions. But I have my brother in law to help and we are thinking foam board but I may consider sandwiching reflection material between the foam board and the garage door. This should... in theory, help the heat be reflected in summer and maintain the warmth inside in winter. Also, I find it is very easy to adjust garage doors if we add too much weight. It is really an easy process if you follow the way the pros do it. Great video, and I have to say, the ending rivals the silliness of JarJar Binks. Great to see you having fun.
Using some soft enclosure foam on the hinge joint and cheap EPS foam in end of each panel as a spacer would allow the entire door to be covered and give air space inside the doors panels to allow the radiant barrier some of the air space it actually is designed for.
Fun video for sure. I too have looked at the cost of a new insulated door, compared to DIY like this. ROI is a huge factor. If you have 3k and don't care, go for it right? I read some comments about a larger air gap for the RB - which will provide a couple degree's cooler probably. There is still plenty of metal on your door left exposed which radiates heat. You're spot on about gaps at the edge of the panels where it meets the weather strip being a problem. I found a cheap solution - a spring loaded door hinge. Look up "Green Hinge System". I have a southern facing garage door that acts like a frying pan in the summer. I did the reflective radiant barrier but I also put another RB that has the silver reflective material laminated to a thin soft foam back layer (advertised at being R-8 equivalent). I cut the reflective barrier to size so I could wedge it inside the door panels keeping them in place place and stand away from the door for a better air gap. I then used the double sided foam tape on the outside edge of the panels to hold the foam layer giving me 2 layers. (I did the install of the 2 layers a few days apart, and could feel a noticeable difference just walking next to the door during a week of 95+ degree weather. Before 1st layer - it radiated heat like crazy and could be felt from 3 feet away. After first layer, it was a huge difference - could still feel heat a few inches away. The heat was localized and felt when I put a hand near exposed metal edge of each panel - but not in the center of it. After the 2nd layer, I no longer feel any heat radiating heat off of it. I feel a few degrees difference from room temperature when touching the foam layer. Unfortunately I didn't take any measurements). I later added the Green Hinge System (wish I could have done first, but found the product months after adding the insulation). It closes off the gap and doesn't allow the wind to blow the door edge open during storms. I figure I'm still at 10% of the cost of a new insulated door and somewhere between 1/2 to 2/3 of the R value if you take the DIY products at their advertised ratings. Thanks again for sharing - wish I had thought to document my install, but more so, wish I could convey it as succinctly and entertaining as you did!
I’ve had this product on my sun facing windows every year for last 10 years and yes it drops the cost of your air significantly! And if you air conditioner ever breaks it’s a LIFESAVER!
Just stumbled upon your channel - good stuff! And good on you for preserving the Dodge!
Thanks! Yeah I just put a video out about it for the first time in a while.
I don’t know what I enjoyed more, the scenes of the doors opening and closing or the closeups of your calculations with the red sharpie
Both! It’s all so magical!
Entertainment and diy at its finest!
The reading on the non contact thermometer depends on the emissivity of the surface. If you want an accurate measurement then put some PVC tape on the surface and measure the temperature of that. You will need to be real close to ensure the full sensor field of view is enveloped by the tape... Or just use a contact thermometer...
To check the weight of your garage door unhook it from the opener and open half way if it stays put your hood if it slams you are screwed. 3 Turns for every foot of door if you need to tighten your springs.
Wat
I have use that double sided tape with some exterior door strip insulation and it works just fine.
Yeah it still hasn’t failed.
Very nice video followup. I appreciate the effort you put into this. Thank you.
Ok people. You can get that bubble wrap reflective insulation at a HVACsupply house in a big roll about 4’ x 50’ roll for about half of what Home Depot sells enough for one garage door for. So check around !!!!
Thanks for doing another video and giving viewers the results!
Good job man i have been looking for videos and guidance on this as I want to insulate my garage. So many options and so many ways to do it. Thanks for creating this, i will now try this at my house.
Thanks for the follow up video!
you want to keep the heat out from warming the door in the first place, might be a good idea to glue reflective insulation (not bubble wrap) to the exterior of the door, or even painting it with reflective paint might help
That's why it (and pretty much all garage doors) are painted with glossy white paint.
I’m doing this on my garage doors. I live in Louisiana. Thanks brother.
Nice! Yeah this'll be great since you're likely most concerned about heat.
Thanks for the update! I tried the foam board method and the weight definitely affected the door performance. So glad you experimented this project.
Thanks Daniel. Yeah I’ve heard the foam board can work great may need to just adjust the springs or upgrade to beefier ones. I’ve installed openers before, but I leave springs to the pros.
if you doubled up on the barrier say one piece of cardboard and 2 layers of barrier would that reduce the amount of radiant energy?
keep in mind aluminum is a very strong conductor of heat. It works by blocking radiant transfer of heat (the air gap between the door surface and the reflectix ). If the aluminum (reflectix) contact with the metal door is reduced to a minimum, it would probably be even more effective. But it looks like it works well enough for your purposes.
Yes an air gap is essential for any IR barrier to work.
I think the question about garage doors opening was related to the remote control not the weight of the insulation. Did the metallic nature of the insulation effect the operation of the remotes?
Hi Greg, their comments were about weight causing the door springs to get overloaded. And no... there is no issue with the remotes.
Apparently the person say to just replace tne floors is not a homeowner or someone paying attention to our planet. Dump perfectly good doors into the landfill isn't such a great idea. And in Alaska I just quoted replacing 2 panels and it confetti in at nearly $900.00. I have tne best doors you can buy and paid $1200 extra (on top of the price) for extra support to buck 80 mph wind and higher insulation barrier. As a good homeowner, you will always have mother nature elements and, some homeowners will go above and beyond to make our homes the best we can for efficiency & comfort. What is a concern for one, may not be for another. I appreciate you explaining hot and cold as, what would work for my brother in Florida, wouldn't do much for me in Alaska. Also explaining the humidity. You cover all the things most don't think of. BOTH the install, then questions& answers were GREAT DIY VIDEOS!
I appreciate your feedback sir!
What I wanted to know was not the garage door heat difference but the overall garage temperature. Do you recall how much the entire garage temperature went down by?
Great vibes dude! I like your channel!
I'm in the process of doing this now with the same method you used. My door is completely flat so no cavity for an air barrier. The only thing I'm doing in addition is using is foil tape to seal the areas around the hinge hardware. I had it lying around so I figured it may be worth it to try out.
I was hoping it would slow the the heat escaping in the winter when I'm working on the Jeeps but it may have little to no effect if that didn't work for your far more mild winters in Washington.
Thanks for the videos.
Nice. If there’s any way to add an air gap it will work better, but I understand the limitation.
@@JasonExplainsThings My door is insulated as it came from the manufacturer. .... maybe 15 years old? I don't know what R value it is but I would assume it is the minimum as this was a pretty cheap house to buy overall. If it helps me retain heat in the winter so I don't have to run the heater so much I can let you know.
You have to disconnect the electric opener and see if the door will still "hang" in mid cycle or fall down to test the spring adjustment.
I really like that play scene :)
TY both of you :)
It looks like you installed the barrier directly to the face of the door panel. You would really see a benefit if you installed the barrier on the horizontal “structure” of each panel, giving you about a 1” air gap between the barrier and the panel face.
The way you have the barrier installed, you are only gaining the air gap between the two foil faces. Because you have direct contact to the panel face, you have conductive heat transfer between the panel face and the mating foil face of the barrier.
I would suggest trying to install a piece of barrier that a bit wider to span the bent edges of the panel and comparing to a barrier that’s mounted directly to the face.
I’d suggest watching this video and the install one again, because it has an air gap.
Hilarious!!! Laugh away at the crazies. And Thank you, I hadn’t even thought about the weight of the insulation.
Same dilemma here.........FiberGlass is 22 lbs for double door OR Foam is 14 lbs OR Reflection is 7.3114159 lbs. I can tell you are in engineering or work for SpaceX.
Thanks and love your the video.
Hi Jason, its very informative. QQ my garage door is metalic and has small panels with about half to 3/4 inch sliding option for reflex membrane to go in. Should I tape it with the panel so its secured from sides or on the outside edgers to make it smooth as it looks in your video. Please advise. Thank you
I came for the garage door insulation info, but stayed for prequel-level acting. Very nice.
🤣
I would loosely put it over the door bends it would reflect out any light leak and insulate further
I thoroughly enjoyed this video - now I want to watch the original one 🤪
I love my new insulated garage door with Direct Drive Motor. YEA that’s right no overhead noisy motor.
Fancy! Still rocking the cheap old doors for now.
You should end every video filmed in your garage with a new scene for your Star Wars fan film. Freaking hilarious!! Best work day break, and possibly best ending to any DIY video on RUclips. Shame to the people with no sense of humor.
I did the same process on mine, however I thing each panel division line must need insulated too, any ideas? Tape, v-seal?
My understanding of radiant barriers are that they stop and then collect or re-radiate the heat caused by UV radiation. Then that heat needs to dissipate through an air gap and vent to the outside. Attics with radiant barriers are vented to the outside. My guess is that you are seeing benefits mostly from the insulation / thermal break and I also bet the radiant barrier is reflecting heat back into the door making it hotter?
Why doesn't it work in the winter? Should reflect heat back in, no?
Jason, I have a poured concrete floor - I just purchased this home. The concrete GARAGE floor is cracked - reasonably large cracks in the floor. Is there a way, a material which you would suggest for repairing these cracks? Thanks, my friend. GREAT videos.
From what I understand, you're supposed to use something like a piece of tape over the insulation so that you can get an accurate reading. Otherwise, you're just getting the reflection from inside the shop as opposed to the actual temp on the other side of the insulation.
One of my favorite star wars scene, also the music quality of the star wars scene? How did you afford that? It sounded ridiculously good!
😂
It's sad this only has 15k views. I hope more ppl see this informative masterpiece.
15k is pretty good for me! 😂. But thanks.
Great Anakin impression!
Interesting. I was looking at AP Foil 3/4 in. x 48 in. x 96 in. R-5 Foil Faced Polyisocyanurate Foam Board Insulation but might consider this instead
For me...with a garage facing westward in Florida with no trees to block the sun...it isn't the AIR it's the sun induced radiant heat. This would be fine. I worry about baking off the paint on the fron of the door panels though!!
I realize this is an old video but for people looking at this there are a couple things you should know. Infrared technology is great but temperature and images can be misleading if one is not familiar with the technology. The surface of the foil is shiny and highly reflective. The IR camera and thermometer is picking up the reflected temperature of the room. To properly measure the surface temp, the emissivity of the foil and the reflected temp must be known so the actual temperature can be calculated
All good points. 👍
A lot of plucky RUclipsrs annoy me-- you are a wonderful exception. I subbed.
Why did u not just shoot it on the hinge area? Vs pulling panel back
Partially to show how well the tape holds it in place. I was getting a bunch of sass about that tape… that still holds it well several years later.
Looking forward to the fan film sequel!
😂 I’ll have to find an excuse for more of those. No more garage door videos.
what about that foam type of installation ? what is better /
I'm late to the party, but what if you double the barrier on each panel. Would the R rating double? if you have excess material please try it and get back with an answer to see whether it works. thanks
I love the follow-up. Very useful.
The red dot isn't where you're measuring. They measure a cone, so the further you are away form the surface, the larger area you are measuring the average temperature of. Try pointing it at a candle flame and moving it away and watch the number drop.
That ending was 100% better then the return of skywalker
was there any measurable noise reduction (soundproofing)?
Will you add foam board insulation to the radiant barrier?
Then you can do a video on the spring adjustment!
The fan film was awesome! Almost worth the wait. Thankfully, one can skip past the irrelevant FAQs and go straight to the dessert.
Would've liked to see if it works in a hotter area. 75 vs 79 isn't much
I live in a 16ft contractor trailer looking for a lightweight isolation I only have one inch so it needs to be thin and lightweight it gets incredibly hot in the summer and as low as -14deg in winter do you think this would be a good option???
Was thinking about spray foam insulation
I’d go with spray foam… maybe a layer of reflectix on top with an 1” air gap?
For MUCH better performance, make sure there's about an inch of empty space between the garage door and the radiant barrier. Being flush against the door surface, you're mostly acting as insulation. Aluminum is a great conductor and, as you installed it, it's conducting the heat from the door.
Nope. There’s an air gap. Showed it in both videos pretty clearly.
The air gap has to be at least an inch and completely sealed. @@JasonExplainsThings
I think you may have missed the point on the two-sided tape. I don't believe weight is the issue. It's the heat and cold the tape must endure over the years being stuck to the garage door.
Your video was great though. Lots of good information, especially about the weight and it's effect on the operation of the door. I've been considering a number of options over the last couple of years and I have been leaning towards the Reflectix product, both for ease of installation and weight. The mystery has always been how well it works in summer. Your video answered that for me.
Haha
We have a similar sense of humor! Love the videos!
Though for the life of me I can't figure out why you didn't go with the E6000 and the bradnailer.
Looks great. I've been reading up on this product. I m reading that you need to leave an air gap. If the radiant barrier is in contact w the hot surface, then the conductive heat properties kick in and negate the intent of the radiant barrier. But I do like the evidence u show of a delta of 10 degrees. Your thoughts on the air gap?
Yes, it does need an air gap. I cover that in more detail in the install video. My installation has a 1/2” air gap. 👍
80 F - 75 F = 5 F (when he used FLIR and said "much cooler" instead of cooler). The thermometer results (the way he measured them) should be ignored.
For radiant barrier I'm pretty sure you need 2 plus inches of an air gap so the radiant barrier can reflect the heat.
I'm sure that'd be better. The documentation from Reflectix said one inch. But the more the better.
love the funny editing keep it up. im going to copy what you did. good job ! and keep rolling your eyes to bad comments !
Dude, you are a Goob (Short for Goober/ not a bad thing). I appreciate you garage door videos and the extreme Goob nature of the end.
😂
Thanks for the update. What made you choose reflectix vs something like insulating foam?
Weight mostly. Rigid foam would likely require new springs.
@@JasonExplainsThings gotcha. Just finished using insulfoam- lol didn’t seem heavy at all. I’ve seen someone use it with reflectix on top and I’m a long time reflectix user so we’ll see how it goes
Did you try to add radiant barrier to your attic? Maybe you don't have hot summers?
My house already has that. I believe the shop doesn’t quite yet.
Awesome! I love your quality videos great work I wish i had your editing skills. #goals I just did a foam board insulation video and tested it for cold weather last winter, and now you reminded me that I should have probably tested the results for Summer heat as well. And now i want an infrared camera LOL
If you could install the insulation on top panel by removing the bolts, you probably could do the same thing on the hinge area.
Awesome video! Honest and hilarious 😂 😂😂👍
LOL Loved the Video! Very informative. Who cares about the critiques... Panels look great...and its holding. That is all that matters.
I don’t understand how it can’t work in winter, if you insulate something with this it’ll reflect the heat and make it escape at a slower rate wouldn’t it? It’s not gunna keep stuff warm by itself but in addition to other insulation it’ll definitely warm keep it warmer for longer as it’ll trap the heat inside
Dont point a thermal camera at a shiny surface and believe the results use some black tape and look at it then as reflective surfaces mess up the readings of ir cameras and it show a huge difference.
Thanks for the tip! If I do future thermal camera tests I'll be sure to do that. I'm confident that in general the results of this project are positive. The reflectix is noticeably cooler to the touch than what's behind it. I'm also putting a pin in this topic. No more garage door videos unless they need to be replaced. I'm happy with the results. Take the info for what it's worth to you. :-)
You might want to cover the gaps with reflectix tape
Have you thought about putting strips to bridge the gaps in better refletix? Like leave some slack in it where the door hinges so it doesn't tear off? Have not seen anyone try it yet.
Have you tried 2 layers? Or, a Reflectix layer topped by a rigid foam layer? A comment from a similar video triggers my thought.
2 Layers wouldn't likely have any further radiant improvement. Over foam you'd still need an air gap, but depending on the door it could be doable.
Love the humor. Wish I could like the video twice! My garage needs more insulation and I am trying to find a way to do it without blowing in insulation or ripping out the Sheetrock. Not looking forward to it.
One method I've seen (if you have attic access) is to cut holes in the top plate and fill the cavities from above... and then plug the holes. They did that in my old house... from the first year or so of my channel.
@@JasonExplainsThings that’s a good idea. There is access. I will look at your past videos too.
You could also cut round holes in the interior drywall and blow in cellulose insulation from above. I believe plastic, paintable covers for the holes are available. Easier than drilling holes through the upper wall plate. This assumes that your garage is ok with the look of the covers.
Definitely enjoying your content, keep up the good work buddy...
Can't wait for the sequels