Hello Binh, that is a really effective thermal design, good job. Just one suggestion on measuring the inside temperature of the foil surface bubble sheets. The infra-red (IR) emissivity of this foil is probably around 0.06, which is low like you want. It makes the inside surface like a mirror to IR radiation. But the resulting IR reflectivity is about 0.94, so when you aim your IR thermometer at the foil surface you are almost entirely measuring the temperature of the reflected garage interior surfaces. To get an accurate reading of the inside temperature of the foil you can put a small piece (~1 inch) of painters tape on the foil and get real close to it with your IR thermometer so the detection spot is small enough to be completely on the tape. It should be a little warmer than the garage contents surfaces but of course, much cooler than the unmodified metal garage door. Happy thermaling!
Before I dig in to any project, I always watch what others have done. After nearly 50 videos, yours has me convinced it's the way to go. It's clean, cheap, and looks like an easy DIY. Mind if I name drop you in a future video for the inspiration? Either way, great work, bro.
For those not wanting to remove the hurricane bars, cut horizontal lines on opposite sides of the foam panels and then Z-fold them up under the hurricane bars. I did this several years go. Great video, thank you!
I suggest removing the bars and all the hinges, installing the bubble insulation, then securing it in place with all the hinges and bars. Much cleaner and a better air barrier.
Yep I did the same after watching your video but with 1 1/2 inch R Tech , your getting a R6 rating and putting the foil against the door , I did remove the R tech film name on the board after cutting it so you just see just the white. Some were saying the foil barrier you had added had just a very small difference in temperature for the cost of it but aesthetically I think it looks better. As a note : that you didn’t show was cutting these sheets and tools was a T square , sharpie, on a saw horse table to do the work I also found using a saber saw with a metal blade cuts really well like butter and helps with trimming if you have to cut more down as most razor blades holders do not go that deep. Installing this is a pain and it takes time to pinch these into place and is messy as well , I did a three car garage and it took 3 days on and off so it’s not getting done as fast as the video shows dah ! For the money on sheets 👍 R value 👍 Fun project 👎👎 Thanks for sharing the video and doing it the right way the first time ..
I did a very similar install. Instead of cutting the bubble insulation to fit each panel, I taped together a sheet large enough to fit the entire door. Then I removed all the hinges, hung tacked the sheet at the top, poked holes with an awl when all the screws needed to go, then reinstalled all the hardware on top of the sheet. This is probably the same amount of work, but it gave me a true air barrier. NOW it’s time for me to install an AC. I’m going with a portable floor model that I’ll vent through the Florida garage floor vent.
Nice write-up, but one thing I would like to add is that garage door springs are "balanced" to hold the 350lbs door at any point of lift. If you open the door manually halfway and it slowly creeps down, it doesn't have enough tension. If there is too much tension, the door will rise up. Adding 20 lbs of foam and reflective material will throw off that balance, so it's important to ensure it's properly balanced. Adding 20 lbs to an already balanced door won't be an issue, but adding 20 lbs to a door that's already off-balance due to lack of tension will be problematic, especially on your garage door opener. A slight fall with the added foam weight is normal, but if it was already falling before you added these on, I would consider adjusting the springs about 1-2 small 90 degrees turn with two winding bars. Do NOT overtighten the springs and do it at your own risk.
Nice! I have the same doors as you do. I'm doing something similar to this installation except not installing a radiant barrier covering the insulation blocks. Going to install a 97% rated thin reflective radiant barrier on the doors first and then add insulation blocks that have a white vinyl type covering on one side of them facing into the garage for a nice aesthetic look. Also going to paint the outside of the doors with good exterior white semi-gloss to further help reflect sun radiation. Living in FL the heat is the biggest issue so this might not be the best installation for colder climates.
What do you recommend for the outside edge of the door? The weather stripping that comes with the door is worthless. In the northern climates that’s where we have a lot of heat loss in the winter.
What about moisture/mold in the gap? Steel buildings typically use something in between the insulation foam and door to reduce moisture/condensation and mold.
In Missouri we have upto 110 in the summer and -10 to -20 in the winter. My problem is my door folds in places where there isn't a rail. Nothing holding the 2 pieces in beside each other. The Door folds are in the middle of the sections. What should I do?
I'm in Arizona and had this plan for my 28x30 metal buiding. People were making fun of me saying I need a higher R value or I'm wasting my time, but your degree went down quite a bit. i even bought the same products so will try it.
For a metal building you may want to look in spray foam insulation. The cost and of boards may not get you good enough insulation especially in AZ. I’m in FL, reducing the temp helps reduce radiant heat into the bldg but thick insulation will always win in reducing heat gain.
@@TunerwithKids Thank you, I'm testing it first. got the temp gun with a r7 foam board and rbarrier with foil and white on inside. using Smartshield. But for the roof I am hiring a company and they can put the best on there, this will help too
I want to do this to my garage!! Im nervous about doing it myself tho!! I like to keep my car clean in the winter and I need a warmer garage!! I live in Illinois.
Likewise! I don’t care about keeping my heat in the garage here in DFW, do you think that additional radiant barrier you installed on the interior side helps with any of that outside heat as well, or exclusively for retaining heat inside your garage?
@@tdeeez the way radiant barriers work, they need an air gap which takes any radiant heat from a surface and reflects it back. So I’m theory, the small air gap between door and foam helps reflect the suns heat on the door. Mine has the added Reflex foil layer on the inside, so any radiant heat inside reflex back inside. Radiant heat is different from convection heat, that is heat absorbed by something it physically touches (foam board to metal door)
On 2:25, did you measure that gap between the garage door and the metal bar and you slided the foam board in? I have the same garage door and I measured that gap for the width of the foam board but is super complicate to put it if I account for those gaps. I only did the top row so any suggestion will be helpful. thanks for the video.
I'm thinking putting the bubble wrap against the door and then the reflective side of the foam on the inside of the garage. The bubble wrap is a radiant barrier isn't it?
So what was the working temperature in your garage before you installed the system your way, versus what was the holding temperature inside your garage after you installed these? I know your original scan showed about 20° but for some reason that seems awful high when everybody else is showing maybe 10 at the most but you showing 20 to 24 I have to admit is very intriguing. How does your mini split work in there now with the garage door insulated the way that you did it?
I will be looking at a similar set up as we are in Florida and have the 3 car garage as well . I would be tempted to put the radiant bubble against the door and possibly paint the foam board white . Were the springs enough to handle the extra weight? Any thoughts?
Excellent ideas Binh! How much wider did you cut each foam board to fit into each garage panel? What is the air temperature before and after the insulation? Thanks for your video!
I already have reflectix on my door in fla. Wonder if just adding the foam on the back of it would be fine. Rather not start over. I didn't see your video till after my work.
It is a nice video. Thanks! The only thing I'm worried about is the extra weight you gaining on the garage door. Do you need to rebalance it? The springs may not work right. Thanks again.
the weight we add is negligible vs the 400# door. The HD guys carried all the boards over their head as they brought it to my car, so they weigh nothing. Your door springs do all the lifting anyway.
Weight added is negligible, probably 10lbs. If it’s a concern, just wind the springs in garage door 1/4 turn. Garage opener isn’t designed to lift full weight, springs do the lift.
Hey Binh. Fellow FL resident here. Just got done with my garage doors this weeked. Used your technique and love how the doors turned out. Getting prepped for that minisplit AC sometime soon. Curious if you have insulated your attic space above as well? That is where I'm going next. Probably with blown-in insulation. Thanks for sharing your steps!
I’ve done that in my old house and at this on for the single car garage side. I used rolls of batt insulation both times. It’s was more manageable and also less messy for using it as storage space. I’m also added plywood decking up there to make more useful for storage and boxes.
So your radium barrier on the wall you just put on the inside portion of the garage correct? The foil lining of the insulation is went towards the street correct or did you use radiant barrier inside the garage panels then the insulation with the metal side facing out toward the street putting the insulation in the frame and then putting another radiant barrier on the inside of the garage facing inside the house?
im curious...i know its foam on foam, but what about the weight? the motor is rated for the door as is, any additional weight can make it struggle...have you noticed any difference in the performance?
Didn’t need to make any adjustments to spring wind since the weight of these boards and foil are nothing. The Home Depot guy carried all the sheets over his head to my van. But anyone doing this can easily test the weight by disconnecting the garage door safety latch and lifting manually to make sure it holds up by itself at the top.
Hi, what is your depth from outside frame to door? I see u are using 1” panels. I am also in FL and just measured mine and it’s 1 5/8”. I’m thinking would have to use at least 1 1/4 or even 1 1/2.
I mentioned in video, 1-1/2 will fit tight and may not clear the bars. they only had 1-inch in this size board so I used that and the foil radiant which made a snug fit.
Hello Binh , great video Do you know if it’s possible to have white foam facing inside of garage , instead of having a silver as the inside layer How would you approach that ? Thanks in advance
Please note that when you measure temperature with IR thermometer, you need to change emissivity because the silver surface will have different emissivity then the white door. Otherwise the temperature will be very inaccurate, like in your case.
I think you got this backwards. The Reflectix performs better than the foil on the boards. You want Reflectix against the door metal, street side, then the board with ideally an air gap between the door and the Reflectix and another air gap between that and the foam. I’d personally do foil side in for a finished look.
Not just "ideally". Without an air gap, the refectix inside will not reflect at all to the outside. Because Reflectix is softer and more flexible than the board, it may not stay away from touching the door the way the stiff flat board will, and again, contact with the door will destroy the reflective effect at points of contact between reflectix and door. The hard, flat boards will stay off from contact with the door better than the reflextix against the door--for better overall performance the way HE did it.
@@roundedges2 I sort of follow you but what is the Reflectix doing facing the inside of the garage? Shouldn’t that be the first layer of protection for the door? So if you could keep that an inch or so off the door metal I’d think that performs better than how he has it. Because as it stands its just a pretty finish to look at from inside the garage. It’s not really reflecting heat radiation anywhere useful
@@znelson32 I'll be doing the Reflectix on outer door side and reflective side of foam board facing into shop. My doors are 10'w x 12'h, may use double sided tape to space Reflectix off door slightly, and tape foam board to doors for a little more security.
Agree foil 1st. Air gap is critical for the radiant barrier to work, thus why it gets staples on rafters Want to reflect outside heat from the door & then keep the garage air cool with the foam He has 2 doors maybe he could redo one to see how much it would help on a sunny day.
Binh, how does the Reflectix stay in place? Is it just compressed into place? No air gap between Reflectix and outer board? Another fellow did two layers of 1/2" board with an air gap in between, which also is interesting. Does anyone believe the Reflectix has a 14 to 21 R-value? Would you do it the same or differently a 2nd time around?
The reflectix is just held by the hurricane bars and tucked in edges. There is no air gap between. The board has a tiny air gap due to the pattern on door but nothing that creates a true radiant barrier. Radiant barriers don’t have R value, the reflect heat and reduce heat gain, there by allowing your insulation to do less work.
I didn’t have to. The foam boards don’t add more than 10lbs or so to my doors but with all the hurricane bars, these springs are pretty meaty. I’ve messed with the springs recently before this to get the seals all aligned and closed right.
Fellow Floridian here looking at doing this within the next few weeks. Just moved into a new house without an insulated garage door and it's unbearable. Just wondering what horsepower rating your double car garage door is? I still need to add an opener to mine and don't want to undersize it by adding insulation like this. Thanks for the video!
It’s a standard consumer opener. The garage springs do all the lifting so garage opener doesn’t need much power. It’s more important to make sure the door can hold itself up when you manually open and also close tight without dropping.
It’s much easier to block the heat from radiating into the space than try and air it out. If you have AC in garage then it’s a must. My neighbor keeps his garage AC 24/7 due to his hot wheels wall collection and the insulation made a huge difference it run time and temps.
I live in Texas (Houston) and for some reason those foam boards (1 in x4x8) aren't available in my area and not available for delivery, so I've been looking for alternative boards. Did you use any adhesive to make sure the foam board stays put? Did you completely cover the garage door panel up to the steel railing on those inside lips on all sides to make a tight seal? And for the reflective insulation, again any type of adhesive used? What about weight issue, any issues with your garage door opener struggling to open the door? Thanks for your time in answering my questions and helpful video! Hoping my project will turn out like yours!
If you have 1-1/4 it might be better. They only had 1” at mine. No adhesive just the hurricanes bars keep it in place. I cut it to slide into the rails. The 1” had enough wiggle room, 1-1/4 might be tight. The weight of these are nothing compared to the 400lbs door.
Hmm, since the radiant barriers require an air gap and no gap is provided, I am not sure they are providing any value. i am down in SWFL and researching options as well. Those horizontal hurricane supports sure make things a bit more difficult.
There is a slight air gap since the door has the raised pattern but it’s not as effective as a true air gap. Nonetheless, the aesthetic on the backside with the added layer was more what I wanted. I didn’t want the branding foil showing.
@@TunerwithKids , that plastic foil is removable, but silver looks nicer than white. Contactless temperature measurement off a highly reflective surface is inaccurate: it gives a lower reading than the actual temperature.
No, as far as the radiant barriers themselves, as its only useful in blocking radiant heat. IE Solar, incandescent, etc. It won't help with conductive or convective. The foam board itself does help insulate some, but only marginally so, that you would not notice the difference. But that's usually not the biggest problem compared to the hottest summer months of the year.
Thank you for this! I had a hard time searching for someone who put the bubble foil over the foam board insulation and an extra bonus you live in FL too. That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing to my she-shed. I already have 2" foam board installed on the ceiling and 1/2" on the walls, but you know the heat in FL is oppressive. I currently run a window shaker and floor AC and I'll still sweat when working on my dirt bikes. I also put that reflective silicone paint on my she-shed roof. What did you use to cut the foam boards? I used my circular saw for the 2" boards and my yard looked like it was snowing. I just used a box cutter for the 1/2" boards.
Hi Binh, thank you for the information. Great content. I live in FL and want to do the same thing. Since the garage door has the support bars, I was wondering if you had to adjust the springs for the added weights? Thank you in advance.
The boards only have an R6 or R7. That’s the hard number. The radiant barrier really doesn’t add R value but does have an affect on heat gain. I can’t really quantify the differences in temp before and after the insulation because the minisplit was installed in the fall so no other comparison for seasonal changes. I also really only use the garage and AC at night.
@@TunerwithKids thank you for the response because I need to insulate my garage and I'm wondering if my garage door openers could handle say maybe doubling the insulation to bring it closer to a traditional wall if they are 13 and still be able to pick up the door
@@TunerwithKids I had surgery under my armpits full gland removal. My apologies I want to do this but can’t.. can you advise me of someone nearby or yourself even?
I noticed you had 2 rolls of the Reflectix bubble wrap (looked like the 48 in x 25ft). Was that enough to cover both your garage doors? And how has your garage temp held up so far this 2022 summer in FL?
It was enough to do a double door and the one single with a small amount left over. It was a huge difference in summer especially when I’m using the AC in my garage. It still gets hot but minimize the heat gain especially from morning direct sun on it.
It’s best to do the math on your door. Mine are standard 7’ tall and 8’ / 16’ wide, respectively . So the double needed 28’ to cover. The single needed 14’. That left me with 8’ extra.
If you add up all the exposed metal inside your garage that will transmit heat, and calculate the percentage of area not insulated, you will see how inefficient your design is. You should cover all exposed metal with the reflective material to maximize the efficiency.
My garage is all concrete block. In FL there isn’t any insulation in CMU. Garage has 75% second floor coverage. The single car side, already installed batt insulation. So overall my garage is well insulated already. This was the biggest heat gain area.
It's killing me how many guys install these wrong, and documenting the process... It says right on the package there needs to be a gap with the reflectix.
What do you mean, I mentioned measuring your door (everyone has slightly different measurements) @3:25 after that you can see me using a 4-foot drywall ruler/level to mark a straight edge and cut with a razor. It’s foam, not difficult to cut or score and break.
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Hello Binh, that is a really effective thermal design, good job. Just one suggestion on measuring the inside temperature of the foil surface bubble sheets. The infra-red (IR) emissivity of this foil is probably around 0.06, which is low like you want. It makes the inside surface like a mirror to IR radiation. But the resulting IR reflectivity is about 0.94, so when you aim your IR thermometer at the foil surface you are almost entirely measuring the temperature of the reflected garage interior surfaces. To get an accurate reading of the inside temperature of the foil you can put a small piece (~1 inch) of painters tape on the foil and get real close to it with your IR thermometer so the detection spot is small enough to be completely on the tape. It should be a little warmer than the garage contents surfaces but of course, much cooler than the unmodified metal garage door. Happy thermaling!
Before I dig in to any project, I always watch what others have done. After nearly 50 videos, yours has me convinced it's the way to go. It's clean, cheap, and looks like an easy DIY. Mind if I name drop you in a future video for the inspiration? Either way, great work, bro.
Yea go ahead, thanks.
Same here! Great video
For those not wanting to remove the hurricane bars, cut horizontal lines on opposite sides of the foam panels and then Z-fold them up under the hurricane bars. I did this several years go.
Great video, thank you!
I suggest removing the bars and all the hinges, installing the bubble insulation, then securing it in place with all the hinges and bars. Much cleaner and a better air barrier.
Yep I did the same after watching your video but with 1 1/2 inch R Tech , your getting a R6 rating and putting the foil against the door , I did remove the R tech film name on the board after cutting it so you just see just the white.
Some were saying the foil barrier you had added had just a very small difference in temperature for the cost of it but aesthetically I think it looks better.
As a note : that you didn’t show was cutting these sheets and tools was a T square , sharpie, on a saw horse table to do the work I also found using a saber saw with a metal blade cuts really well like butter and helps with trimming if you have to cut more down as most razor blades holders do not go that deep.
Installing this is a pain and it takes time to pinch these into place and is messy as well , I did a three car garage and it took 3 days on and off so it’s not getting done as fast as the video shows dah !
For the money on sheets 👍
R value 👍
Fun project 👎👎
Thanks for sharing the video and doing it the right way the first time ..
I did a very similar install. Instead of cutting the bubble insulation to fit each panel, I taped together a sheet large enough to fit the entire door. Then I removed all the hinges, hung tacked the sheet at the top, poked holes with an awl when all the screws needed to go, then reinstalled all the hardware on top of the sheet. This is probably the same amount of work, but it gave me a true air barrier. NOW it’s time for me to install an AC. I’m going with a portable floor model that I’ll vent through the Florida garage floor vent.
I like that you showed us temperature readings of before and after. Good job.
I only saw the part where he showed the temperature of the door insulated. Did he happen to show the inside the temperature before and after?
I am glad I am not the only one who thought of using both foam and bubble wrap barrier. Looks great.
I wanted the aesthetic and the extra layer helps keep panels tight.
Very nice! I’ve watched a lot of garage door insulation videos in preparation for doing mine. Yours is the most impressive so far!
Dude, agreed.
I live in Florida too and that is something I really need.
You did a good job.
Thanks
Nice write-up, but one thing I would like to add is that garage door springs are "balanced" to hold the 350lbs door at any point of lift. If you open the door manually halfway and it slowly creeps down, it doesn't have enough tension. If there is too much tension, the door will rise up. Adding 20 lbs of foam and reflective material will throw off that balance, so it's important to ensure it's properly balanced.
Adding 20 lbs to an already balanced door won't be an issue, but adding 20 lbs to a door that's already off-balance due to lack of tension will be problematic, especially on your garage door opener. A slight fall with the added foam weight is normal, but if it was already falling before you added these on, I would consider adjusting the springs about 1-2 small 90 degrees turn with two winding bars. Do NOT overtighten the springs and do it at your own risk.
Awesome, I'm glad I didn't buy the kit. I've watched several of these and I think the foam and bubble wrap combo is most versatile for installation.
I have been viewing a few videos and wanted to use something more than just the kits. Thank you for confirming how well it looks and works.
Nice! I have the same doors as you do. I'm doing something similar to this installation except not installing a radiant barrier covering the insulation blocks. Going to install a 97% rated thin reflective radiant barrier on the doors first and then add insulation blocks that have a white vinyl type covering on one side of them facing into the garage for a nice aesthetic look.
Also going to paint the outside of the doors with good exterior white semi-gloss to further help reflect sun radiation.
Living in FL the heat is the biggest issue so this might not be the best installation for colder climates.
I think putting the reflective roll first then the form board (with aluminum side face toward inside) will be more effective for summer and winter...
What do you recommend for the outside edge of the door? The weather stripping that comes with the door is worthless. In the northern climates that’s where we have a lot of heat loss in the winter.
What about moisture/mold in the gap? Steel buildings typically use something in between the insulation foam and door to reduce moisture/condensation and mold.
In Missouri we have upto 110 in the summer and -10 to -20 in the winter. My problem is my door folds in places where there isn't a rail. Nothing holding the 2 pieces in beside each other. The Door folds are in the middle of the sections. What should I do?
I did the exact same thing a few months ago! Crazy they don't factory install insulation for doors going to Florida.
This is one of the best DIY insulation videos I have seen. One quick question. How do you cut the panels?
Thanks
Lou
Razor use a straight edge and score and bend.
Great stuff!! The Florida heat is real !
Same here in Texas.
I'm in Arizona and had this plan for my 28x30 metal buiding. People were making fun of me saying I need a higher R value or I'm wasting my time, but your degree went down quite a bit. i even bought the same products so will try it.
For a metal building you may want to look in spray foam insulation. The cost and of boards may not get you good enough insulation especially in AZ. I’m in FL, reducing the temp helps reduce radiant heat into the bldg but thick insulation will always win in reducing heat gain.
@@TunerwithKids Thank you, I'm testing it first. got the temp gun with a r7 foam board and rbarrier with foil and white on inside. using Smartshield. But for the roof I am hiring a company and they can put the best on there, this will help too
Great job! I am doing your same set up as a Fl resident.
Excellent video friend!! Thank you for taking the time to share.
I want to do this to my garage!! Im nervous about doing it myself tho!! I like to keep my car clean in the winter and I need a warmer garage!! I live in Illinois.
In IL, probably don’t have the hurricane bars to keep it on.
You could add some thermal tape to really seal it tight.
From one Nguyen to another, this is a win-win video. Will be tackling this project soon to fight the Texas heat.
Minisplit AC is where it’s at.
Likewise! I don’t care about keeping my heat in the garage here in DFW, do you think that additional radiant barrier you installed on the interior side helps with any of that outside heat as well, or exclusively for retaining heat inside your garage?
@@tdeeez the way radiant barriers work, they need an air gap which takes any radiant heat from a surface and reflects it back. So I’m theory, the small air gap between door and foam helps reflect the suns heat on the door. Mine has the added Reflex foil layer on the inside, so any radiant heat inside reflex back inside. Radiant heat is different from convection heat, that is heat absorbed by something it physically touches (foam board to metal door)
@@TunerwithKids makes sense. Thank you!
On 2:25, did you measure that gap between the garage door and the metal bar and you slided the foam board in? I have the same garage door and I measured that gap for the width of the foam board but is super complicate to put it if I account for those gaps. I only did the top row so any suggestion will be helpful. thanks for the video.
I'm thinking putting the bubble wrap against the door and then the reflective side of the foam on the inside of the garage. The bubble wrap is a radiant barrier isn't it?
Yes it’s a radiant barrier but needs an air gap to work.
Would you rotate the Reflective sides of both differently if you were in a cold Climate like Utah and Montana?
So what was the working temperature in your garage before you installed the system your way, versus what was the holding temperature inside your garage after you installed these? I know your original scan showed about 20° but for some reason that seems awful high when everybody else is showing maybe 10 at the most but you showing 20 to 24 I have to admit is very intriguing. How does your mini split work in there now with the garage door insulated the way that you did it?
I will be looking at a similar set up as we are in Florida and have the 3 car garage as well . I would be tempted to put the radiant bubble against the door and possibly paint the foam board white . Were the springs enough to handle the extra weight? Any thoughts?
Weight was negigible for foam vs the 400 lbs door.
Thanks @@TunerwithKids
Excellent ideas Binh! How much wider did you cut each foam board to fit into each garage panel? What is the air temperature before and after the insulation? Thanks for your video!
Just measure the space and cut. Didn’t measure air temp.
I already have reflectix on my door in fla. Wonder if just adding the foam on the back of it would be fine. Rather not start over. I didn't see your video till after my work.
If it fits, you can add foam. The foam will do more than reflectix.
It is a nice video. Thanks! The only thing I'm worried about is the extra weight you gaining on the garage door. Do you need to rebalance it? The springs may not work right. Thanks again.
the weight we add is negligible vs the 400# door. The HD guys carried all the boards over their head as they brought it to my car, so they weigh nothing. Your door springs do all the lifting anyway.
If your garage door opener is old, you may want to replace it to handle the additional weight
Weight added is negligible, probably 10lbs. If it’s a concern, just wind the springs in garage door 1/4 turn. Garage opener isn’t designed to lift full weight, springs do the lift.
Hey Binh. Fellow FL resident here. Just got done with my garage doors this weeked. Used your technique and love how the doors turned out. Getting prepped for that minisplit AC sometime soon. Curious if you have insulated your attic space above as well? That is where I'm going next. Probably with blown-in insulation. Thanks for sharing your steps!
I’ve done that in my old house and at this on for the single car garage side. I used rolls of batt insulation both times. It’s was more manageable and also less messy for using it as storage space. I’m also added plywood decking up there to make more useful for storage and boxes.
Nice job, I want to thank you, you have given me some ideas. I live in northern MichIgan.
There's another video out there showing the proper placement to include the air gap which is necessary.
What temperature difference it’s mini split after the insulation
So your radium barrier on the wall you just put on the inside portion of the garage correct? The foil lining of the insulation is went towards the street correct or did you use radiant barrier inside the garage panels then the insulation with the metal side facing out toward the street putting the insulation in the frame and then putting another radiant barrier on the inside of the garage facing inside the house?
Excellent video! Great ideas.
Hi Bihn, wondering what the difference in temperature has been since you’ve installed the radiant barrier and boards on all doors?
I’m in FL so it’s always hot!!! But it helps reduce some of the morning heat gain when direct sunlight on doors.
im curious...i know its foam on foam, but what about the weight? the motor is rated for the door as is, any additional weight can make it struggle...have you noticed any difference in the performance?
Weight is negligible vs the 400lbs door.
What about the added weight to the doors? Did you rebalance the doors by adjusting the tension coils?
The weight is negligible vs the 350lbs door.
you add foam board w/double radiant barrier that s additional weight of the garage door ,did you you make adjustment to spring ? just asking.
Didn’t need to make any adjustments to spring wind since the weight of these boards and foil are nothing. The Home Depot guy carried all the sheets over his head to my van. But anyone doing this can easily test the weight by disconnecting the garage door safety latch and lifting manually to make sure it holds up by itself at the top.
Hi, what is your depth from outside frame to door? I see u are using 1” panels. I am also in FL and just measured mine and it’s 1 5/8”. I’m thinking would have to use at least 1 1/4 or even 1 1/2.
I mentioned in video, 1-1/2 will fit tight and may not clear the bars. they only had 1-inch in this size board so I used that and the foil radiant which made a snug fit.
Hello Binh , great video
Do you know if it’s possible to have white foam facing inside of garage , instead of having a silver as the inside layer
How would you approach that ?
Thanks in advance
Yea you can do it that way too. Most of the precut kits are just plain white foam with no radiant foil.
How does the radiant barrier stay on?
Please note that when you measure temperature with IR thermometer, you need to change emissivity because the silver surface will have different emissivity then the white door. Otherwise the temperature will be very inaccurate, like in your case.
I think you got this backwards. The Reflectix performs better than the foil on the boards. You want Reflectix against the door metal, street side, then the board with ideally an air gap between the door and the Reflectix and another air gap between that and the foam. I’d personally do foil side in for a finished look.
Not just "ideally". Without an air gap, the refectix inside will not reflect at all to the outside. Because Reflectix is softer and more flexible than the board, it may not stay away from touching the door the way the stiff flat board will, and again, contact with the door will destroy the reflective effect at points of contact between reflectix and door. The hard, flat boards will stay off from contact with the door better than the reflextix against the door--for better overall performance the way HE did it.
@@roundedges2 I sort of follow you but what is the Reflectix doing facing the inside of the garage? Shouldn’t that be the first layer of protection for the door? So if you could keep that an inch or so off the door metal I’d think that performs better than how he has it. Because as it stands its just a pretty finish to look at from inside the garage. It’s not really reflecting heat radiation anywhere useful
@@znelson32 I'll be doing the Reflectix on outer door side and reflective side of foam board facing into shop. My doors are 10'w x 12'h, may use double sided tape to space Reflectix off door slightly, and tape foam board to doors for a little more security.
Agree foil 1st. Air gap is critical for the radiant barrier to work, thus why it gets staples on rafters Want to reflect outside heat from the door & then keep the garage air cool with the foam
He has 2 doors maybe he could redo one to see how much it would help on a sunny day.
I need someone to help me to do this, I'm in Florida too and it is brutally hot in my garage. Great video.
Did you get new garage springs for the added weight?
No need to the new panels are light and barely add any weight compared to the 400lbs or more of the door.
@@TunerwithKids thanks for the response!! they still hold up pretty well?
WOW that's a huge temperature difference, Is adhesive not a requirement
No need if you have hurricane bars. Also I wanted the slight air gap for radiant barrier.
Hello from Mooresville NC
I see you put a gap in the Styrofoam were the door pivots. Was that 1/2 inch on bot sides?
Not sure what gap you mean? The air gap between the foam and door? That for the radiant barrier to reflect out.
@@TunerwithKids Sir, I was wrong in my perception. thanks for the response.
Binh, how does the Reflectix stay in place? Is it just compressed into place? No air gap between Reflectix and outer board? Another fellow did two layers of 1/2" board with an air gap in between, which also is interesting. Does anyone believe the Reflectix has a 14 to 21 R-value? Would you do it the same or differently a 2nd time around?
The reflectix is just held by the hurricane bars and tucked in edges. There is no air gap between. The board has a tiny air gap due to the pattern on door but nothing that creates a true radiant barrier. Radiant barriers don’t have R value, the reflect heat and reduce heat gain, there by allowing your insulation to do less work.
curious why did you choose rtech rather than ngx board?
It’s whatever brand they had at HD.
Thx I'm debating between those 2 now. Great video
What were the measurements for the outside and the measurements you used for the middle part
IDK, I just measured the existing door clearance and cut as I went to fit.
Great video bro, how did you keep the radiant barrier in place?
The hurricane bars on my door keep them wedged.
Did you adjust the door springs? There is a surprising amount of weight with this method and the springs may need adjustment.
I didn’t have to. The foam boards don’t add more than 10lbs or so to my doors but with all the hurricane bars, these springs are pretty meaty. I’ve messed with the springs recently before this to get the seals all aligned and closed right.
Fellow Floridian here looking at doing this within the next few weeks. Just moved into a new house without an insulated garage door and it's unbearable. Just wondering what horsepower rating your double car garage door is? I still need to add an opener to mine and don't want to undersize it by adding insulation like this. Thanks for the video!
It’s a standard consumer opener. The garage springs do all the lifting so garage opener doesn’t need much power. It’s more important to make sure the door can hold itself up when you manually open and also close tight without dropping.
hope you can help can you do 1 1/2 thick board with radiant barrier
Probably not. That’s the max thickness that fits most aluminum garage doors.
i thought about doing this because we're here in texas, but meh to release the heat i just open the doors and work in the hot humid weather. :(
It’s much easier to block the heat from radiating into the space than try and air it out. If you have AC in garage then it’s a must. My neighbor keeps his garage AC 24/7 due to his hot wheels wall collection and the insulation made a huge difference it run time and temps.
You'll get dehydrated doing it this way! Please drink plenty of beer, your choice, make sure it is cold.
I live in Texas (Houston) and for some reason those foam boards (1 in x4x8) aren't available in my area and not available for delivery, so I've been looking for alternative boards. Did you use any adhesive to make sure the foam board stays put? Did you completely cover the garage door panel up to the steel railing on those inside lips on all sides to make a tight seal? And for the reflective insulation, again any type of adhesive used? What about weight issue, any issues with your garage door opener struggling to open the door? Thanks for your time in answering my questions and helpful video! Hoping my project will turn out like yours!
If you have 1-1/4 it might be better. They only had 1” at mine. No adhesive just the hurricanes bars keep it in place. I cut it to slide into the rails. The 1” had enough wiggle room, 1-1/4 might be tight. The weight of these are nothing compared to the 400lbs door.
I love the idea, but our garage has a row of windows so it is not clear if this would help much
If you like the light coming thru that cut the holes out. Better yo have 90% of the area insulated than none.
It will help for sure. And you can put 3M Tint film on your windows to reduce the heat coming in your garage, also😊
Hmm, since the radiant barriers require an air gap and no gap is provided, I am not sure they are providing any value. i am down in SWFL and researching options as well. Those horizontal hurricane supports sure make things a bit more difficult.
There is a slight air gap since the door has the raised pattern but it’s not as effective as a true air gap. Nonetheless, the aesthetic on the backside with the added layer was more what I wanted. I didn’t want the branding foil showing.
@@TunerwithKids , that plastic foil is removable, but silver looks nicer than white. Contactless temperature measurement off a highly reflective surface is inaccurate: it gives a lower reading than the actual temperature.
Clean install 💪🏾
How much Horse Power does your garage engine has on the big door?
Idk. It’s a regular consumer Genie belt opener.
Thank you. Well explained.
Does it do a good job keeping it warmer in the winter also?
Supposed to but in FL, no way to tell.
No, as far as the radiant barriers themselves, as its only useful in blocking radiant heat. IE Solar, incandescent, etc. It won't help with conductive or convective. The foam board itself does help insulate some, but only marginally so, that you would not notice the difference. But that's usually not the biggest problem compared to the hottest summer months of the year.
Hey Binh..I'm in Florida too (Orlando), cool project and good video!
Thank you for this! I had a hard time searching for someone who put the bubble foil over the foam board insulation and an extra bonus you live in FL too. That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing to my she-shed. I already have 2" foam board installed on the ceiling and 1/2" on the walls, but you know the heat in FL is oppressive. I currently run a window shaker and floor AC and I'll still sweat when working on my dirt bikes. I also put that reflective silicone paint on my she-shed roof. What did you use to cut the foam boards? I used my circular saw for the 2" boards and my yard looked like it was snowing. I just used a box cutter for the 1/2" boards.
A razor or box cutter to score it and break.
Did the weight make it harder for the garage opener?
no issues...the springs can handle this small amount of added weight since its already lifting a 400lbs door.
Did the added weight affect how your door operated?
Negligible weight. They springs can handle fine.
Hi Binh, thank you for the information. Great content. I live in FL and want to do the same thing. Since the garage door has the support bars, I was wondering if you had to adjust the springs for the added weights? Thank you in advance.
The weight of the foam is negligible compared to the 350lbs door.
I thought you were going to put the foil side against the door 🤔
I did but I added another reflective layer on the inside too.
And what is your r value?
The boards only have an R6 or R7. That’s the hard number. The radiant barrier really doesn’t add R value but does have an affect on heat gain. I can’t really quantify the differences in temp before and after the insulation because the minisplit was installed in the fall so no other comparison for seasonal changes. I also really only use the garage and AC at night.
@@TunerwithKids thank you for the response because I need to insulate my garage and I'm wondering if my garage door openers could handle say maybe doubling the insulation to bring it closer to a traditional wall if they are 13 and still be able to pick up the door
Not the opener but the springs. You can wind springs another 1/4 or 1/2 turn if it gets too heavy.
Can I pay you to do mine? I live in Florida too thanks man
Here to teach, not to do.
@@TunerwithKids I had surgery under my armpits full gland removal. My apologies I want to do this but can’t.. can you advise me of someone nearby or yourself even?
I’d recommend a garage door company or home insulation company. I’m sure they will give you quotes and you can compare.
How much difference has it made in temp?
Great Work! thanks for the video, ill be doing mine this way soon!
I noticed you had 2 rolls of the Reflectix bubble wrap (looked like the 48 in x 25ft). Was that enough to cover both your garage doors?
And how has your garage temp held up so far this 2022 summer in FL?
It was enough to do a double door and the one single with a small amount left over. It was a huge difference in summer especially when I’m using the AC in my garage. It still gets hot but minimize the heat gain especially from morning direct sun on it.
@@TunerwithKids if you can remember, were the rolls of the reflectix 48in by 25ft? I greatly appreciate your time and response.
It’s best to do the math on your door. Mine are standard 7’ tall and 8’ / 16’ wide, respectively . So the double needed 28’ to cover. The single needed 14’. That left me with 8’ extra.
@@TunerwithKids my doors are the same, 7ft x 16ft and 7ft by approx 8ft. Awesome! Again, I greatly appreciate your time, video, and responses.
If you add up all the exposed metal inside your garage that will transmit heat, and calculate the percentage of area not insulated, you will see how inefficient your design is.
You should cover all exposed metal with the reflective material to maximize the efficiency.
My garage is all concrete block. In FL there isn’t any insulation in CMU. Garage has 75% second floor coverage. The single car side, already installed batt insulation. So overall my garage is well insulated already. This was the biggest heat gain area.
How do I get that shirt?
I got it on my Teespring store. Check links in description box.
I saw your thumbnail on Reddit
$180? Today you can get either 6 of those sheets or the reflectix for $180. Also, hd will deliver it next day too.
LEAVE AN AIRGAP WITH REFLECTIVE MATERIAL.
Man, all that stuff costs a fortune in Australia.
It's killing me how many guys install these wrong, and documenting the process... It says right on the package there needs to be a gap with the reflectix.
Binh there, done that 👍
It is a pity u did show how to measure and cut the pieces
What do you mean, I mentioned measuring your door (everyone has slightly different measurements) @3:25 after that you can see me using a 4-foot drywall ruler/level to mark a straight edge and cut with a razor. It’s foam, not difficult to cut or score and break.
What did you cut it with?
Just a razor blade utility knife or box cutter.
Kits cost is $118
Looks factory!
Fire Hazard
Really bad choice. The bubble wrap core will be dead and collapsed in a few months. The glue will be forever unremivable.
There’s no glue.
How do you get the bubble wrap to stick to the foam?
@ncc6726 just tucked behind the bar.
Airgap goes in first. You made a mistake putting the foam first.
WOW that's a huge temperature difference, Is adhesive not a requirement