Dang, That is so true and I should have said that and it didn't even cross my mind. That alone is a much more important reason to look for even minor bends. Thank you Donnie.
Love ur vids have watched the whole build ...i also raced for 12 years quit in 06 I miss it so much like u I did it my way right or wrong I had my own opinion on my springs also long on left front and rear short on right front and rear long it worked for me but I'm a high side and wide open runner if I remember I ran a 10 in right front at 800 and 12 in 600 or 650 on left front on left rear 225 12in and 175 or 200 10in on right rear. Give or take 25lb ...its been a while also kept a sway bar for just such an occasion ...i wasn't no slouch either ...take care I'll be looking for next vid
Thanks for another GREAT Video Jason! I have been involved in racing over 30 years and I knew I would learn better/Quicker ways to check for bent/damaged parts. Spinning the Ball joints is a Great way to check for a bent Ball Joint stud. Thanks, Mike
I have been enjoying your videos you do a great job. We were at the Mag and Cherokee racing with you earlier this season. I would offer you one tip on chains when using them. Wrap them in electrical tape. Keeps the links from getting disoriented or getting caught on anything which in turn can accidentally limit what you are limiting even more causing some issues. Electrical tape or shrink wrap is fine and can save you some headaches down the line.
Thats a good point. I have my rears taped but forgot to do that RF. I will now though. Thanks Ricky, I need all the eyes on this to help and appreciate you watching and calling it out :)
Loving ur stuff, im learning alot about street stock racing this off season....ran ump modiefieds in the midwest about 10 yrs ago and been out of the game since. Starting back into it with a ump street stock this coming yr...I know I way behind on ur videos but I'm watching them all taking notes and trying to catch up....top notch stuff man keep it up.
I appreciate you watching Troy. As you go through them you will see how I am learning, processing the information, and changing my understanding in some aspects. Where I am now on getting back in the game for coil cars is vastly different from where I was one year ago. I hope you find useful information and details in the journey!
One thing we do is use Medieval upper control arms. There a much beefier design than the kind your running, heck if you touch wheels you can bend the upper ball joint plate
They say you win races in the shop and I think this is detail where that's at. I hope it makes a difference for a few racers and if so then it's worth showing.
@@DIRTRACELIFE it’s already made a difference, I built my very first chassis because of watching your series ! I wish I could post pictures in the comments!
Great detail on post crash damage assessment. Explaining the effects of bent Ackerman arm was on point too. I thought that right front was coming up faster based on the video from hot laps of the suspension than I would have imagined. We talked about the GF600, and I thought that would help. At least trying the GF800 will definitely tie that sucker down and keep it there. Under acceleration it will obviously come up a bit quicker than in this video. If it’s to much there’s room between the GF500, and 800. Looking forward to seeing what You/We learn from these changes.
Jay suggested the 800 as the alternative. One thing about it, it is different enough that I should be able to feel the difference and know if it is a good move or not!
I think it’s going work great. I’m curious to learn about how the tether on the left rear is going to work in conjunction with tying the right front down so hard. I agree that it will allow less initial wedge and am curious if that will result in the car wanting to carry the left front to much. What I’m thinking is the LR tether will help limit the drive from the left rear from pulling the left front off the track. I don’t know if any of that makes any since, but that’s where My mind is going.
Love you videos and you are helping me learn a bunch. Can't wait to see the tire prep stand, I have been gathering parts myself for building one and am real curious to see your design
Hey Jason how you doing I think doing a hell of a job. Let me know that whip for that Mig gun worked out great thank you. My next question I was going to ask you I'm wanting to get a GoPro and start doing some videos I was just wondering what would be a good one to start off with I'm not knowing electronic Guru you got time let me know thank you keep up the good work Buddy
Norman, thanks for watching! Currently I am using a GoPro Hero 9 and a Hero 10. I have the module it plugs into that has an auxiliary mic as well as port to plug a mic in. I film in the shop in 4k @ 30 frames with a separate raw audio file. I put everything on youtube in 1080 HD which is just one 4th of 4k but the reason i do this is so I can zoom in when needed. Just be aware it makes for very LARGE file sizes. At the track i just record in 1080 @ 60 frames which makes files half the size of 4k but i can slow motion the 60 frames if the cases arises where it would be useful. I use hitfilms pro to edit. Hit films express is free to use and then you can pay to upgrade to pro if you want. Be warned. Video editing software takes a butt ton of processor power (think gamer level pc) I use a acer nitro 5 that I built to run on solid state with a coulple extra terra bite drives just for video archive. If you aren't ready to do all this then I suggest skipping editing altogether and using gopro's cloud services instead. You can port videos from your gopro to the cloud using your phone and then edit them using the app on your phone. Not the greatest overall but is a great way to get started :) I hope this helped!
I agree the craft is changing and some of it seems opposite to what has been done in the past. But I am seeing some top performing teams evolve in this direction and I think its worth investigating and understanding why it is working. I am running the RF at 2 inches out from the RR but yes want to go out another inch and see if I can tell difference it makes and how it acts when I can get a chance.
@@DIRTRACELIFE I have a 1 inch wheel with a 2 inch spacer, you can tell major difference. But it would only work on certain tracks. Youll get to the point were its too much lol
Need some help with a sport mod. The previous owner of my car welded the upper control arm mount on the wrong side of the shock mount making the mount too far toward the wheel. I have a 7-3/4” arm on it which is not even legal in this class but still have positive 8° camber on the left front. What’s the best way relocate the mount without destroying my front end geometry?
If it is a flat plate mount and has been done parallel, it shouldn't be that bad to move. Use it as a guide to put a spacer behind it and tack down. then cut it loose and put it on the other side of the spacer. (Spacer should be however thick you need to move it inward.)
@@DIRTRACELIFEGot it done! I had to do some creative stuff to make sure the crossbar on the control arm wouldn’t get hit by the by the shock body but made it work. Thanks again for these videos!
Its not looking like we will go to Talledega unfortunately. Weather is going to be way too iffy for a 5 hour haul at these gas prices. Going to focus on getting some shop videos done at a minimum.
I think the two can be treated separately Steve. Shocks are more accurate and effective as you move them out but that should not hinder us using a chain to preload a corner. Ps- thank you for the order. It should ship Monday :)
We are running a big car 112” wheelbase in factory stock and we are going to the tubular upper control arms do you have a part number by chance for the ball joint
Cameron, the K6136 is the 10 degree taper ball joint that most including me use. If you happen to be using 67-72 chevelle spindles or pinto spindles that are cut for a 7 degree taper then you would use K6024s.
@@DIRTRACELIFE thank you I appreciate the info I enjoy the videos just ordered everything to make the tire stand I enjoy how thorough you are about going over everything
A bent ball joint will also break later ....
Dang, That is so true and I should have said that and it didn't even cross my mind. That alone is a much more important reason to look for even minor bends. Thank you Donnie.
Love ur vids have watched the whole build ...i also raced for 12 years quit in 06 I miss it so much like u I did it my way right or wrong I had my own opinion on my springs also long on left front and rear short on right front and rear long it worked for me but I'm a high side and wide open runner if I remember I ran a 10 in right front at 800 and 12 in 600 or 650 on left front on left rear 225 12in and 175 or 200 10in on right rear. Give or take 25lb ...its been a while also kept a sway bar for just such an occasion ...i wasn't no slouch either ...take care I'll be looking for next vid
Ps I didn't run jack bolt on my metric so the springs fit and kept my ride hight down.
Thanks for another GREAT Video Jason! I have been involved in racing over 30 years and I knew I would learn better/Quicker ways to check for bent/damaged parts. Spinning the Ball joints is a Great way to check for a bent Ball Joint stud. Thanks, Mike
Awesome Mike, really appreciate your comments and the insight you've been giving me. Thank you.
I have been enjoying your videos you do a great job. We were at the Mag and Cherokee racing with you earlier this season. I would offer you one tip on chains when using them. Wrap them in electrical tape. Keeps the links from getting disoriented or getting caught on anything which in turn can accidentally limit what you are limiting even more causing some issues. Electrical tape or shrink wrap is fine and can save you some headaches down the line.
Thats a good point. I have my rears taped but forgot to do that RF. I will now though. Thanks Ricky, I need all the eyes on this to help and appreciate you watching and calling it out :)
Loving ur stuff, im learning alot about street stock racing this off season....ran ump modiefieds in the midwest about 10 yrs ago and been out of the game since. Starting back into it with a ump street stock this coming yr...I know I way behind on ur videos but I'm watching them all taking notes and trying to catch up....top notch stuff man keep it up.
I appreciate you watching Troy. As you go through them you will see how I am learning, processing the information, and changing my understanding in some aspects. Where I am now on getting back in the game for coil cars is vastly different from where I was one year ago. I hope you find useful information and details in the journey!
Very nice explanation as to how to check after an incident
Thanks Jeff, I was surprised by that lower ball joint getting bent. Hoping to drop the next part in a day or two.
One thing we do is use Medieval upper control arms. There a much beefier design than the kind your running, heck if you touch wheels you can bend the upper ball joint plate
I agree, These Afco uppers are probably some of the least robust you can get. I could stand to upgrade these but it has to wait for now.
@@DIRTRACELIFE I’ll email you the link. I’m not sure they have ones to fit your chassis
When you beef up one part you need to beef up all the components due to it will bend the weakest part in a wreck
@@DIRTRACELIFE Speedway's house brand are the cheapest and weeniest.
This is the part of raving a lot of people over look! This work your doing in this video is what seperates the men from the boys ?
They say you win races in the shop and I think this is detail where that's at. I hope it makes a difference for a few racers and if so then it's worth showing.
@@DIRTRACELIFE it’s already made a difference, I built my very first chassis because of watching your series ! I wish I could post pictures in the comments!
By all means share them with us on facebook and Instagram if you have that set up. Love seeing folks hard work turn into race cars.
Great detail on post crash damage assessment.
Explaining the effects of bent Ackerman arm was on point too.
I thought that right front was coming up faster based on the video from hot laps of the suspension than I would have imagined.
We talked about the GF600, and I thought that would help.
At least trying the GF800 will definitely tie that sucker down and keep it there.
Under acceleration it will obviously come up a bit quicker than in this video.
If it’s to much there’s room between the GF500, and 800.
Looking forward to seeing what You/We learn from these changes.
Jay suggested the 800 as the alternative. One thing about it, it is different enough that I should be able to feel the difference and know if it is a good move or not!
I think it’s going work great.
I’m curious to learn about how the tether on the left rear is going to work in conjunction with tying the right front down so hard.
I agree that it will allow less initial wedge and am curious if that will result in the car wanting to carry the left front to much.
What I’m thinking is the LR tether will help limit the drive from the left rear from pulling the left front off the track.
I don’t know if any of that makes any since, but that’s where My mind is going.
Your exactly right Chuck. It should help plant the RF instead of unloading the LF.
Cant wait to see how the new shock works out.
One thing about it..... It's going to be different! I think it will be a good move but we will see :)
Hell Yeah! Very good job. Ty so much
Thanks Patrick
Great video bud! It will definitely help a LOT of us!!
Thanks Darrell, I hope so :)
Love you videos and you are helping me learn a bunch. Can't wait to see the tire prep stand, I have been gathering parts myself for building one and am real curious to see your design
I need to be on that tire machine build right now. Life getting in the way again but I promise I will get it done.
@@DIRTRACELIFE totally understand that, my car is still about 75% finished hoping to get it out in August.
Hey Jason how you doing I think doing a hell of a job. Let me know that whip for that Mig gun worked out great thank you. My next question I was going to ask you I'm wanting to get a GoPro and start doing some videos I was just wondering what would be a good one to start off with I'm not knowing electronic Guru you got time let me know thank you keep up the good work Buddy
Norman, thanks for watching! Currently I am using a GoPro Hero 9 and a Hero 10. I have the module it plugs into that has an auxiliary mic as well as port to plug a mic in.
I film in the shop in 4k @ 30 frames with a separate raw audio file. I put everything on youtube in 1080 HD which is just one 4th of 4k but the reason i do this is so I can zoom in when needed. Just be aware it makes for very LARGE file sizes. At the track i just record in 1080 @ 60 frames which makes files half the size of 4k but i can slow motion the 60 frames if the cases arises where it would be useful.
I use hitfilms pro to edit. Hit films express is free to use and then you can pay to upgrade to pro if you want. Be warned. Video editing software takes a butt ton of processor power (think gamer level pc) I use a acer nitro 5 that I built to run on solid state with a coulple extra terra bite drives just for video archive. If you aren't ready to do all this then I suggest skipping editing altogether and using gopro's cloud services instead. You can port videos from your gopro to the cloud using your phone and then edit them using the app on your phone. Not the greatest overall but is a great way to get started :)
I hope this helped!
@@DIRTRACELIFE wow that was enough information right there for a whole nother video
Ive never chained up the RF, always the LF. And if your looking for a freer entry try a 1 inch wheel on the RF.
I agree the craft is changing and some of it seems opposite to what has been done in the past. But I am seeing some top performing teams evolve in this direction and I think its worth investigating and understanding why it is working. I am running the RF at 2 inches out from the RR but yes want to go out another inch and see if I can tell difference it makes and how it acts when I can get a chance.
@@DIRTRACELIFE I have a 1 inch wheel with a 2 inch spacer, you can tell major difference. But it would only work on certain tracks. Youll get to the point were its too much lol
Need some help with a sport mod. The previous owner of my car welded the upper control arm mount on the wrong side of the shock mount making the mount too far toward the wheel. I have a 7-3/4” arm on it which is not even legal in this class but still have positive 8° camber on the left front. What’s the best way relocate the mount without destroying my front end geometry?
If it is a flat plate mount and has been done parallel, it shouldn't be that bad to move. Use it as a guide to put a spacer behind it and tack down. then cut it loose and put it on the other side of the spacer. (Spacer should be however thick you need to move it inward.)
@@DIRTRACELIFE That’s not too bad. I can weld well but didn’t know enough to know I could move the plate in without messing up other geometry.
No, I would think your geometry is a disaster right now and moving it in helps in that regard.
@@DIRTRACELIFEGot it done! I had to do some creative stuff to make sure the crossbar on the control arm wouldn’t get hit by the by the shock body but made it work. Thanks again for these videos!
Are you racing anywhere this weekend July 2nd
Its not looking like we will go to Talledega unfortunately. Weather is going to be way too iffy for a 5 hour haul at these gas prices. Going to focus on getting some shop videos done at a minimum.
Jason, I’m wondering if the preload chain will work for shock in stock location as well?
I think the two can be treated separately Steve. Shocks are more accurate and effective as you move them out but that should not hinder us using a chain to preload a corner.
Ps- thank you for the order. It should ship Monday :)
We are running a big car 112” wheelbase in factory stock and we are going to the tubular upper control arms do you have a part number by chance for the ball joint
Cameron, the K6136 is the 10 degree taper ball joint that most including me use. If you happen to be using 67-72 chevelle spindles or pinto spindles that are cut for a 7 degree taper then you would use K6024s.
@@DIRTRACELIFE thank you I appreciate the info I enjoy the videos just ordered everything to make the tire stand I enjoy how thorough you are about going over everything