Perfect Installation - Pool Equipment Installation Tips
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- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2025
- From swimmingpoolst... this is one of the nicest equipment installations reviewed in this series. This system includes a variable speed pump, cartridge filter, sacrificial anode, 250FDN heater, check valve and Hayward "low salt" chlorine generator. A perfect example of how to properly install pool equipment.
#swimmingpoolsteve #poolpump #installationtips
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Great video's as always. You need to do a video on properly setting a Hayward Aqua Rite T-Cell up.
What level of salt/chlorine should I put my Hayward generator at? My pool hardly gets used! I thank you in advance. Love your videos. I used the 2 inch long sweep 90's on my installation. Thanks to your countless times of mentioning this in your videos!
The lower the salt the better, and whatever percentage you need to run your cell at in order to easily maintain 1-3ppm of free chlorine at all times. This value will change based on sun, raitm, bather load, age of the cell etc.
Hi Steve, I have a in ground pool .
Nothing is bonded and just added a low chlorine salt system.
I also installed a anode rod but not connected to anything, would connecting it to the ground in the electrical box do the job of protecting against corrosion?
Do I have to ground my heater as well?
Thank you for your help.
Fastasic video! It's so sad the most (95%) of pool installers are stuck in their outdated ways to install pools and plumbing! When I ask potential pool installed questions on plumbing, pumps, filters and electrical I am told or shown a photo of cheap blue PVC with cheap ball valves connects to undersized constant speed pumps, undersized filters with and grounding! Trying to get them to improve or even watch a few RUclips videos is like pulling teeth! It appears I will be telling them how to do their job and paying extra for the equipment and lessons!
A couple questions 1) in this video there is a long sweep elbow very close to the top of the pump outflow. Is that ok, or is it better to have a bigger gap first? 2) for supplying water to a booster pump, is there some kind of tee or wye that is low head (lower than the 4.3 you have cited on your friction loss fittings page for 2" line flow tees)?
Hi Steve! I got a question. Is an in-line sacrificial zinc anode better then a zinc anode that you can just place in your skimmer? And please explain why?? Thanks!!!
Another question. Do you recommend a heater bypass? Does the Hayward h-series heater have a bypass in them already?? Or should I install a separate bypass valve? Thanks soo much!!!
Can you use flexible pvc to hook it up to the overflow drain pipe?
Flex is not ideal for any application but used for many anyway. A non pressure rated drain line for your overflow could be done with flex with the main concern being you need slope with a drain line and that would be hard to do with the memory in flex pipe. Rigid for sure is easier for setting slope.
It'd older video I know, but the check valve after the heater is not installed correctly. If installing vertical the flow needs to be going upward.
Hi Steve. VSD is cool. However to recommend while the intake pump trench has been made or dug, I recommend making it two pipes. I.E. 2x50mm or higher, simply using 2 Y pipes splitters. This drastically reduces the suction pressure drop. Kind regards Graham.
All the installation instructions for a salt-water setup say to put the flow switch BEFORE the chlorinator, and in two of your videos I see it after the chlorinator. It makes sense in the setup to put it after as it helps provide that straight run and it appears that it shouldn't matter if it is before or after as long as they are directly connected without valves in between. Is there a difference between putting the switch before or after in your opinion?
The reason why you should put it before the cell is simply that the flow switch is made from a very thin piece of metal that moves when water is flowing and closes a contact point. Since the cell is generating chlorine you would want to have that behind the cell to prevent any corrosion damage on that piece of metal.
I would disagree, I'm a experienced pool technician and usually I stick to Pentair products as they are the best there is, Pentair's cell has the same flow switch built in to the cell and its BEFORE the cell as not to blast a sensor component with chlorine. I shake my head whenever I see any kind of sensor installed after a cell in the pipes, because its common sense not to blast a sensor with chlorine. Great videos and appreciate what you're doing but gotta disagree on that one.
Daniel Freedman He literally said to put it before the cell lol
I’m considering installing a heat pump this season on my chlorine pool. From watching your video it looks like I should add an anode before it. Is a check valve necessary? I was planning to do diverter bypass valves to isolate the heater if needed.
Is it a salt pool? If yes an anode is prudent. If you have any chlorine injection, salt cell or especially puck feeder, then yes use a check valve to protect heater from chlorine tracking backwards in the system. Worth the small amount extra cost for extra heater protection.
I believe the salt cell needs to be installed 12” downstream the outlet of the heater in a perfect world. Correct?
The further the better as far as I am concerned...but as long as there is a check valve in between the two then I hive it a thumbs up.
Hayward doesn’t require a certain amount of straight line flow after the flow switch, only 12” straight upstream (which can include the salt cell housing if immediately upstream), so why are you saying there needs to be 8” after the flow switch? Thanks in advance
Not a bad system but certainly not the best. Cartridge filters are the bottom of filter systems. It was prudent for the builder to add the discharge hose. Just wondering why they went with the 3hp variable pump? At max flow is going to put a huge load on the cartridges. Massive overkill for the size you told us the pool was. How many skimmers?
Also, FYI, those are not sweep 90’s.
Do they have a cleaner? Hopefully not the Polaris 360. Since there’s no booster pump one would venture to guess that they would have either a Polaris 360 or an independent unit. If there’s no auto cleaner then they will be vacuuming everything into the cartridges, which means that they’ll have to have the filter serviced 4x a year.
Also, Hayward has made some positive changes, ie…discontinuing the Northstar pump, but still not the best product for the price. Warranty work with them is like pulling teeth.
Just not the best choices on this build. Over priced and wrong equipment. I hope that builders will get back to the old days of positive customer service and accessible equipment for when things need to be replaced.
Just sayin.
No ball valves huh. That's a must on all my lines.
Is a 3 way valve ( if water is not flowing directly through it) be similar to a sweep elbow or a street?
i realize it's quite off topic but do anyone know a good place to watch new series online ?
@Alex Dallas flixportal :P
@Ramon Corey thank you, I went there and it seems like a nice service =) I appreciate it!!
@Alex Dallas happy to help :)
Hello, Can you share what is the model number of the SCG?
Can you please reply and tell US where to correctly bond the ANODE PLEASE
Here is a video for this question: ruclips.net/video/2bp61oOqGSQ/видео.html
Pump lid is on wrong, and backwards leaking air into pump
Pump is a Tristar not an ecostar. Thank goodness
Pump lid locking ring is 180* wrong.
No heater bypass..
I would not consider those 90's sweeps they look standard 90 right angle fitting to me. A sweep 90 has a much more gradual longer turn that creates less back pressure and turbulence in the plumbing. Almost all installers use standard 90's for one reason - less cost.
I agree 100% I'm getting ready to correct my pool filter setup from the precious owner. I'm doing lots of research and there is no way those 90's are sweep. The whole purpose for using sweep 90's it to avoid restricting the flow of water!
LivingTroysLife ! Lasco SCH40 #406-020 is the 90 elbow for 2”. #406-020SW is the sweep elbow
I am getting a bit seasick watching this.. Love the info though
Why do you keep calling short 90s sweep 90s? There is not a single sweep 90 in that video.
Street elbows, short radius sweep elbows and long radius sweep elbows are the three options. In my area the average installer uses all street elbows for every turn in the pipe. By comparison short sweep elbows are 4x better and less restriction to flow.
No. Street elbows have one male and one female end. Street elbows can be short or sweeping (wide radius).
You're mixing definitions and are confusing your audience.
What you are calling street elbows are actually vent elbows.
Please google it and learn proper terminology if your're going to give instructional videos and especially if you're going to critique other's work, which BTW you're spot on.
Secret agent, the street 90s your are talking about are galvanized pipe or steel pipe, in the PVC world street 90s are a female slip on one end and a male slip on the other. In this video there are several pvc street 90s. I use them when needed mainly on retrofitting to pre installed equipment.