Super helpful. I couldn't keep my salt levels balanced and now I know that I'm going to have to do this and, though dreading it, a bottle of muriatic acid is WAY cheaper than a new cell.... I appreciate your video! Perfectly helpful!
Great video. Have been struggling to keep chlorine levels up on SW pool, had it at 60% and nothing, system displaying "no flow". Sure enough, opened the cell and full of scales. Cleaned it and 15 minutes later back on with correct "flow" reading.
One suggestion for improvement here - when you screw the cell into the stand make sure the cord is facing down. Otherwise, the acid can't clean everywhere inside the cell. I found this in the manufacturer's training video.
@@retrotechandelectronics No. You did it correct. If the cord is at the bottom I don't even think it will screw onto the GLX salt cell cleaning stand. I do it with the cord up everytime, just like you did in the video.
Thanks. I haven't ever done it before and my first Hayward salt cell lasted 6 years and this one is 5 years old. I am trying to figure out why the salt cell is generating great, but for some reason it's reading a low salt level. It keeps going to 2600 or 2400 when the pool store says it's at 3000 or 3200. Thought cleaning it might fix the problem? When my last one died after 6 years, it had never been cleaned, and it was quite clean. I guess Atlanta water must be very good. I tried recalibration, but it does not seem to hold. Question: Does it take about a gallon of the water acid mixture or a smaller amount? Thanks.
Thank you....but was curious what did u do with the bucket of water and the "waste" muriatic acid and water mixture from the cell? Some vids just say pour it into the pool? Did you? If its quite dirty id rather not throw it into the pool do you just add more water to it and dump it in the corner of a rock garden or backyard?
The scaling is normal calcium buildup, it leaches out from the pool plaster and sticks to the metal plates during electrolysis. More so in new pools....
Great video. I might have to finally try cleaning my cell. I've never had to clean it before. Vinyl liner pool with low calcium levels and with rain I don't have to add much water from the tap. The control panel is only reading 3300 ppm when the salt level in the pool is actually 4250 ppm (pool store). The 4250 ppm is my fault. I added salt at the beginning of the season without checking to see if the salt cell was reading salt levels accurately. I normally run the salt around 3600. The salt cell is 8 years old. Then again I normally run the cell at around 30% for the 5 summer months. So I guess it really doesn't have that much use. I hope cleaning it will fix the cell/readout. I'm going to just keep running it until it stops producing chlorine or the control panel read "too low salt" and won't run. When it does finally fail, I'll just switch to adding liquid chlorine for the rest of the season or until the price of new cells comes back down. The cost of a new T-15 cell is insane at the moment. They are asking $900 when just 6 months ago they sold for around $550.
I do the exact same thing as well. Results are always good. I also just changed a bad pot on the chlorine controller. The 0-100% pot. It was jumping all over the place. Works great again.
My control unit is not co-located near the pump, its in the screened enclosure near the house away from the elements. I can see how the pot might be the first thing to go.
I bought an after market salt cell two years ago. It’s seems to be dead. Is that common? Any way to test if the unit is kaput before buying another one? I wonder if buying a cheap cell is why I am in this situation. I got 5 years from my Hayward that costs 4xs as much.
I use an oil filter wrench like this www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5866-12-Inch-Filter-Pliers/dp/B000NPR33O/ref=asc_df_B000NPR33O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312003160272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14860492056429093465&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012393&hvtargid=pla-382661962209&psc=1
Hi. We used grips to successfully unscrew the rings from the salt cell, but when we did a lot of water started coming out and would not stop. We had to screw it back together and stop the process. Any help?
I would imagine that if you used cleaning vinegar, without dilution it would work. You would have to see how long it would take by trila and error, or when the bubble stop, maybe an hour or more.
The Power and Generating lights go on and pop off on my AquaRite after a few seconds and my chlorine levers are low...The Led display is responsive, but it seems like it keeps popping off. Any ideas?
I suspect you meant chlorine levels. If you are good with electronics you should check the PCB in the controller. It uses large electrolytic capacitors that have a habit of failing which prevents the unit from powering on. A bad one is obvious because it will be bloated and have gunk escaping from the top. My controller would not power on and replacing a single capacitor for a few bucks saved it.
@@dano2490 Thanks for following up! I ended up replacing the inhibitor, which I got from Digikey, Shipping cost more than 3x the $2.50 part. Ha! As I was clipping the posts on the old inhibitor, it was literally crumbling. I just drilled into the board and soldered it in; works great!
Could you imagine dying from cleaning your salt chlorine generator because you didnt bother cutting power. What would they put on your tombstone?? "Found Everlasting Serenity in Balancing Salinity..........."
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video!
You make this task much simpler. I particularly appreciate your insistance on good safety practices.
Thanks a lot for sharing 😊
Glad it was helpful
Super helpful. I couldn't keep my salt levels balanced and now I know that I'm going to have to do this and, though dreading it, a bottle of muriatic acid is WAY cheaper than a new cell.... I appreciate your video! Perfectly helpful!
Glad it helped.
Widow here trying to figure these jobs out! Thank you soooooo much!1
You are so welcome
I wish all tutorials were this easy to follow! Thank you, Sir! 👍🏼
Glad you like them!
Great video? How do you shut off the check cell light?
Press and hold the Diagnostic button.
Hayward suggests that when using a VFD pump that the offset on the cell faces down when the cell is installed horizontally.
Thanks so much for this simple helpful video! I'm agonizing over a process I don't understand but you made it so simple. Love your vids!
You are so welcome!
Thanks a lot for this video, it worked on my pool. I will check every 3-4 months from now on.
Great video. Have been struggling to keep chlorine levels up on SW pool, had it at 60% and nothing, system displaying "no flow". Sure enough, opened the cell and full of scales. Cleaned it and 15 minutes later back on with correct "flow" reading.
Glad it helped!
Thanks man... I need to do the same thing this week for the first time. you did a thorough job... may need gloves :)
Check the level of buildup to see how often it should be done and set an interval.
One suggestion for improvement here - when you screw the cell into the stand make sure the cord is facing down. Otherwise, the acid can't clean everywhere inside the cell. I found this in the manufacturer's training video.
Thanks for sharing.
@@retrotechandelectronics No. You did it correct. If the cord is at the bottom I don't even think it will screw onto the GLX salt cell cleaning stand. I do it with the cord up everytime, just like you did in the video.
@@scotty7647 It will screw in either way, and yes, the manufacturer suggests having the cord facing down to ensure complete cleaning.
@@lilricky2515correct
I’m kind of sarcastic by nature, but I’ve got to tell ya, this video is a gold mine…
Thanks. I haven't ever done it before and my first Hayward salt cell lasted 6 years and this one is 5 years old. I am trying to figure out why the salt cell is generating great, but for some reason it's reading a low salt level. It keeps going to 2600 or 2400 when the pool store says it's at 3000 or 3200. Thought cleaning it might fix the problem? When my last one died after 6 years, it had never been cleaned, and it was quite clean. I guess Atlanta water must be very good. I tried recalibration, but it does not seem to hold. Question: Does it take about a gallon of the water acid mixture or a smaller amount? Thanks.
3:05 What kind of wrench do you call that and where do you get it?
Thank you....but was curious what did u do with the bucket of water and the "waste" muriatic acid and water mixture from the cell? Some vids just say pour it into the pool? Did you? If its quite dirty id rather not throw it into the pool do you just add more water to it and dump it in the corner of a rock garden or backyard?
“Acid is extremely dangerous” as sirens are going off in the background! Great timing 😂👏🏻
Great video and info!
Theres is always a siren going off here near the hospital.
Good video! I’m following the video right now as I’m cleaning the t-cell. Thanks for posting!
Glad it was helpful!
The scaling is normal calcium buildup, it leaches out from the pool plaster and sticks to the metal plates during electrolysis. More so in new pools....
GReat video and explanation. I appreciate you showing the screw on stand...I need to get that to do my salt cell cleaning. Much appreciated.
The stand makes the procedure 100 times easier
Great video.
I might have to finally try cleaning my cell. I've never had to clean it before. Vinyl liner pool with low calcium levels and with rain I don't have to add much water from the tap.
The control panel is only reading 3300 ppm when the salt level in the pool is actually 4250 ppm (pool store).
The 4250 ppm is my fault. I added salt at the beginning of the season without checking to see if the salt cell was reading salt levels accurately. I normally run the salt around 3600.
The salt cell is 8 years old. Then again I normally run the cell at around 30% for the 5 summer months. So I guess it really doesn't have that much use. I hope cleaning it will fix the cell/readout. I'm going to just keep running it until it stops producing chlorine or the control panel read "too low salt" and won't run.
When it does finally fail, I'll just switch to adding liquid chlorine for the rest of the season or until the price of new cells comes back down.
The cost of a new T-15 cell is insane at the moment. They are asking $900 when just 6 months ago they sold for around $550.
Wow, 8 years without cleaning. Impressive.
Thank you so so much for this very informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid, thx. How do you get rid of the used mur. Acid?
Dilute it and if need be add a base to neutralize it, its not toxic, just acidic.
dump it in the pool
When you replaced the cell you should of make sure witch way to install it ?
Thankyou soo much for this. This was extremely helpful and informative to me. Now I know how to service my salt cell. Thankyou!
You're welcome.
I do the exact same thing as well. Results are always good. I also just changed a bad pot on the chlorine controller. The 0-100% pot. It was jumping all over the place. Works great again.
My control unit is not co-located near the pump, its in the screened enclosure near the house away from the elements. I can see how the pot might be the first thing to go.
I noticed that my screen jumps all over the place also. How do you change the pot?
@@retrotechandelectronics what's the chlorine controller "pot"?
How do you dispose of the acid? Do the o-rings come out prior to pouring the acid in it?
@@jwalker502 Pull the O- rings out, pour the acid into the pool. Put the o-rings back in after.
Thank you for your feedback. From my experience with cleaning other similar items, it will probably take overnight to clear the calsium deposits.
That seems like a significant amount of time.
@@retrotechandelectronics yes, it is too much time. Leaving acidic water in a salt cell for more then thirty minutes can damage the cell.
Great video, going to tackle this tomorrow and nice easy to follow video.
Makes a big difference.
How much total liquid do you need for the T-cell?
Thank you for the tutorial. I understand the process now.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent walkthrough. First time pool owner so this really helped me out.
HOOOOOOORAAHHHHH!
What's the name of that tool to unscrew the salt cell? I can't do it with my hands.
A bar clamp?
What is the tool that you used to unscrew the chlorinator called? Thanks.
I use what is called a bar clamp. It works well for me.
A cheap strap wrench is ideal. The bar clamp could crack the plastic if not very careful.
Any proper sized Chanel lock pliers or pipe wrench will work
Where do you dispose of the acid? Some say back in to the pool. Is that correct?
Yes
Buenos días, José Peres Compré SWP925, mantenimiento de la piscina, pero no necesitaré nada de cloro, ¿qué productos naturales puedo usar ahora?
el cloro se produce a partir de sal
I bought an after market salt cell two years ago. It’s seems to be dead. Is that common? Any way to test if the unit is kaput before buying another one? I wonder if buying a cheap cell is why I am in this situation. I got 5 years from my Hayward that costs 4xs as much.
I havent had any experiance with off brand cells, check amazon reviews on the one you purchased.
What is the name of the tool do you use to open it? mine is too hard
I use an oil filter wrench like this
www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5866-12-Inch-Filter-Pliers/dp/B000NPR33O/ref=asc_df_B000NPR33O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312003160272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14860492056429093465&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012393&hvtargid=pla-382661962209&psc=1
Hi. We used grips to successfully unscrew the rings from the salt cell, but when we did a lot of water started coming out and would not stop. We had to screw it back together and stop the process. Any help?
open the air valve of the filter first, then the water will drain down to the pool and the salt cell will empty.
@@retrotechandelectronicshi, will opening the pump lid (where the basket is) also do the trick?
Could you simply discard the acid solution (perhaps diluted a bite more) on the ground?
Yes, acid isn’t poisonous, diluting it makes it safe and as mentioned above might provide gardening benefit in some instances.
When I removed the cell, it pushed a bunch of salt or fine sand into the pool. Is there anything I can do to prevent this?
There should be nothing in that cell when removed but water.... You have other issues upstream...
I cleaned it but still says 0 and my aquarite system still says inspect cell its not flashing , the light is just on should I increase the output ?
you need to hold the button for several seconds to reset the maintenance light.
Where do you dump the used acid/water??
I dilute it in a large bucket about 40:1 and dump it in a sand pit with good drainage.
@@retrotechandelectronics cool, tks! Great video!
very helpful appreciate all the details.
Glad I could help.
Can I use vinegar instead of the acid? I know it will take much longer to do the job but is safer
I would imagine that if you used cleaning vinegar, without dilution it would work. You would have to see how long it would take by trila and error, or when the bubble stop, maybe an hour or more.
The Power and Generating lights go on and pop off on my AquaRite after a few seconds and my chlorine levers are low...The Led display is responsive, but it seems like it keeps popping off. Any ideas?
Please explain what a chlorine lever is. I am not familiar with this.
I suspect you meant chlorine levels. If you are good with electronics you should check the PCB in the controller. It uses large electrolytic capacitors that have a habit of failing which prevents the unit from powering on. A bad one is obvious because it will be bloated and have gunk escaping from the top. My controller would not power on and replacing a single capacitor for a few bucks saved it.
@@dano2490 Thanks for following up! I ended up replacing the inhibitor, which I got from Digikey, Shipping cost more than 3x the $2.50 part. Ha! As I was clipping the posts on the old inhibitor, it was literally crumbling. I just drilled into the board and soldered it in; works great!
I noticed you didn't disconnected the cord from the panel . is it necessary to do so ?
I shut the main breaker to all of the electricity to the Pool beforehand.
Excellent video thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
How do I reset the inspect salt cell flashing yellow light?
Hold the display button for 3 seconds to reset that timer and clear the blinking light
What is that tool (special wrench?) you use to loosen the union?
Its called a bar clamp. Its used for a different purpose but I found it works well for this so I use it.
A strap wrench works well also.
whats the strength of the acid you are using?
Thanks
Its the consumer grade purchased in the local pool store. Its very strong though.
Thank you so much you are awesome. See you in heaven. 😊😊
Uuuhm ok. You’re welcome
Great job. Like a pro!
Thanks!
the stand should be at the other end of the Cell.
.
THANK YOU!!! GREAT INFORMATION :)
Glad it was helpful!
Good video, thanks
You're welcome
“ None of this is worth dying for, I assure you” 😂😂😂
Could you imagine dying from cleaning your salt chlorine generator because you didnt bother cutting power. What would they put on your tombstone??
"Found Everlasting Serenity in Balancing Salinity..........."
@@retrotechandelectronics Darwin was right? Thanks for the great detailed videos.
Am I looking at this wrong, or is it installed backwards from the way Hayward recommend? My manual says put the power cord end downstream of flow.
Does it? Ill have to check it out... If so I can just flip it around as those are the quick disconnect fittings for maintenance of the unit. Thanks.
What’s up with 2” pipe to 1 1/2” back up to 2”? Who is the plumber? Wow.
Believe me.... I was not the original installer, Ive already cleaned up what was a much worse design.
Sehr gut!!!
Danke. Gibt’s auch so ein Gerät in Deutschland?
Thanks really helpful
Glad it helped
20 % in Florida u Better bump that up
This all depends on cell to pool gallon size.
I’ve noticed during this procedure you put a great emphasis on wearing protective gear yet noticed you’re wearing invisible gloves...
Its true, and you should, and i should mention it. However, most people aren't operating a camera when conducting this procedure.
thank you
I hope you found it helpful.
And check out those DWV fittings on the plumbing. What idiot plumbed this thing?
That acid wash is what kills the cell
This guy scare shit out you with all this talk. So easy to do. If your not sure you can buy a ready mix cell cleaning solution to pour in.
You forgot to wear your gloves
Do not use acid, I used CLR and mine still good after 9 years
Do not use CLR, I used Acid and mine is still good after 9 years
They want you to use acid to buy an other one after 3 years
foreign matter....debris? Too funny, it's calcium buildup.
Yes, the foreign matter, and the debris, and the calcium and the other mineral deposits.
Excellent video thank you.
You're welcome.