Thank you so much for doing this. I’ve just retired and want my van to last as long as I do. We will be going everywhere together. I will do this asap as it’s 12 years old ❤️
Fantastic I shared it on self build campers having helped a friend do that job. Congratulations on how many people you help save their vans from rust. Your style of instruction and presentation makes you an excellent instructor and a pleasure to learn from.
O.K. valid issue and your video is great in showing these problem areas in perfect detail. 👍 A few issues if I may though: I absolutely cringe 😖, when I see these sidepanels being removed with a bare metal screwdriver. You'll be putting scratches in the paintwork causing other corrosion issues. You should also remove the trim clips from the bodywork using similar PLASTIC tools meant for the job. And PLEASE: Remove the markers PRIOR to removing the panels to avoid damaged wiring whilst pulling the panel. The markers have an etched in arrow on one end of the lens, push them in that direction, lift them out and remove the bulb socket with a twist (as shown). Replace ALL (125 on our LWB Crafter) clips with new FACTORY ones (don't use cheap Chinese knock-offs, they are brittle out of the bag). Add a waxing agent, "Mike Sanders" fluid or similar to the INSIDE areas aroud the clip holes. And only use a clip sealant, that remains flexible over time (we used Dekaseal). We've done the lot on our 2014 Crafter and along with a Raptor coating on the side and lower panels, rust should not be an issue. 😎
Very good presentation, have a 2015 144 ex ambulance 906, ran a seal of silicone along the top of the plastic side piece all round and check drain holes regularly, works for me.
Mate I'm in the early stages of my own Sprinter conversion and came across your video by accident. This is next on my ever expanding list but a van saver. Great presentation.
Great advice. One other thing I would add is to make sure that the narrow slotted drain holes are cleared with a piece of wire. One of mine was blocked & the panel full of water
Can't thank you enough mate, brilliant, simple solution to a potentially serious future issue. I just got a new one and it will be one of the first things I do. I plan on keeping my rig till they put me under so want it to last. Much appreciated from the other side of the pond.
Superb video. Just doing my 2008 sprinter and the 50p discs are half off already. One has disappeared completely. Explains the surface rust on the inside of the box section! Thanks for this - the van may last another 10 years now!
Thanks for this. I'm getting a van to convert on a budget so I'm gathering the skills for remedial maintenance that I'm going to need on the van I can afford!
Great advice, thanks for sharing. Im doing my 2nd van fit out and already planning my 3rd. These are the things you don't think about till its too late. Thanks
Hard to believe this is a simple, undetected flaw, especially since it has been affecting sprinters over many years and fix is simple. On the other hand, these are commercial cars, so they tend to do high mileage and get beaten on the job.
Accidentally came across this video and I'm glad I did.When i checked there were water marks , dirt inside the panels and also a few rust circles round some of the clips. Thanks
Liked, subbed and rung the bell! Invaluable info for people like me driving camper conversions over 10 years old with very low mileage, thinking that your maintenance regime will keep it looking and driving great indefinitely, only to find Mercedes themselves are shafting you. "kin pee's me off! The only issue I have had with my bodywork has been due to the installation of a window prior to delivery when new. It developed problems a few years later which shows that they couldn't even be bothered to seal the bodywork properly when cutting into a new £35k van. Would have taken less than a minute. Everything else as long as you keep it clean and serviced has been spot on. Although I am now dreading taking these panels off and finding anything. Great video, thanks. (Enjoyed your humour too!)
Going to do this on my Renault/Vauxhall van also. Water also came in and rusted inside and side panel of my van exactly because of this design fault. Thanks!
Nice 1 Adam, after watching several other videos of Crafter and Sprinter owners sealing up their holes, yours is the first to highlight those larger 50p sized holes. I'm trying to think what they would of been for, but cannot think what, I first thought maybe for a 4x4, I know they have plastic trim over the rear arches, but this still doesn't make sense why those larger holes are there.
Thanks so so much we are just starting to convert our VW Crafter 2011 lwb, i am going to sort ours out in the next few weeks great video, its people like yourself sharing your knowledge and ideas that make it all worth while many thanks again...
Great video, I have a 906 2011, it gas virtually no rust, I want to keep it that way, for years. Its low mileage. Sikoflex is the product I ysed to install monumental scilpture we bonded really heavy items with it. Are there any drain holes I can empty any possible water from my sills
Thank you for this one.We just looked at a 2015 Sprinter LWB for sale in Chertsey England.It has Satnav it had Aircon.It had been owned by a landscape gardener.It is still for sale £11250.Luckily for us the seller had removed the ply lining off the walls which meant we could look into the the depths of the walls of the van inside.It had a perfect tide scum mark from the front of the load area to the back of the load area with soil/rust at the bottom.We walked away from it.Thank you for this vid we could have bought a load of trouble
Stevie, I was looking at that van in Chertsey, the photos I saw showed damp on the ply lining, I just bought a 66 plate for less than that. good luck with your hunt.
Great vid, word of advice to fellow van converters, some of the panels look very similar, such as the one on the sliding door and the one opposite, but they are slightly different, the clips are in a different location on each by about 1cm, varely noticeable until you got the thing covered in sikaflex and it won't go on😂
great tip and note the same sikaflex is used to bond windscreens it sets in about 4 hours like rubber and will never let water through... its murder to get off your hands or parts of the van but does come off with the use of WD40 ... best not to get messy with it in the first place..... great tip though & something id never of considered without you pointing it out cheers bud
I'd probably use a marine grade sealant/adhesive on those holes. I can't see any reason for needing to unseal them anytime soon. I'm talking about the plastic round patches now, not the clips that really hold the trim in. For instance, 3M Marine 5200 adhesive sealant. That stuff will probably survive the apocalypse. Although, why not - 5200 is permanent as heck, so if you use that, those side panel grommets aren't coming off without violence. But the plastic might still come out, but replacing any of the grommets will probably be a bit more painful.
Please can I ask which number sealant you used as I just looked online and there's lots of different numbers for the sealant you say use. Thank you For any replies. Best wishes.
Thanks for the video. I have a leak and rust on the inside wall behind the driver seat. This is probably the culprit. I will pull the panel and reseal.
I think the side rail is also to be checked for leaks, and in my case, the back door rubber seal at the top was letting water in the crack between 2 body parts that were not sealed properly (gummy material was missing). Reapplied silicon all along the body parts hidden by the seal. Hopefully no more leaks
14:06 and when i'm that far with my sprinter, then i will seal off the plastic trim all around so no water can run behind it. And for the side lamp i would use a silicone based sealant because that's easy to remove in case a new light bulb is needed.
Also clear the drain holes at the bottom of the panels (Regularly!) If you don't you could be driving around with a buckets worth of water rusting away
Thank you for your videos! They're so clear and well-filmed. I really appreciate you sharing all this knowledge. And now I know what my next job on the van is ;)
I guess Im asking randomly but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost the login password. I love any tips you can give me
@Deshawn Enrique thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
So,. How do you ever get the trim off without breaking the clip holders on the trim (this ruining the attachments) after you seal the clips to the body?
4 года назад+1
can you still change the bulbs on the side lights ?
Great Job 👍🏽. One question - why you put the clips firstin the panel and then the Sika to the clips and all together with the panel to the car? Why not putting Sika on the clip and then the clip to the car and after the Sika dryed put on the panel? Any reason to do it that way?
Thanks for the video. Under my sprinter panels was an absurd amount of rust holes which caused major leakage into my vehicle. I have fiberglass patched all of the rust holes but I would like to apply a sealant to the top and bottom of the side panels on the outside of my van. Would you recommend this and if so, what type of sealant would work best? Thanks!
My Crafter leaks. It's 2nd hand 13 plate and I noticed water run marks from the trim clips and damp inside. This explains why! What a poor design - mind you VW/Merc want it to rot so you will buy another. 🤔 On the back of your fix, I would advise anyone buying a 2nd hand Crafter/Sprinter to do this as a matter of course. The 1st things to get damaged in a scrape are the trims. (It's what they're there for). If (When - I defy you to show me a 2nd hand van without a bump) your van has had a scrape, the repairer might not have put everything back right. Even to the point of not replacing all the clips? Thanks for a good fix tip👌 Another rot point on Crafter/ Sprinters is the side door track between the stainless steel runner and body. (Mine has it's own little eco system growing there.) Give it a good drink of water displacer (WD40 or alternative). It looks messy but at least you will have something left to clean and polish. May 2022 update - Finally got round to sealing the trim clips. I found that some of the clips were destroyed on removal so replaced with new from eBay along with Sikaflex. They were mostly flithy where the rainwater, salt and roadmuck had gotten behind them. Got me thinking why? Then I was struck by a revelation - as you are moving, there is a pressure difference between the inside and outside of the van. so wherever there is a small gap there will be at times a suction pulling water in.
Do the wheel arches come off the same way, with the t20 for the screw and then the snap fittings? Great video. I don’t have one yet but looking at a one or two year old used one in the near future.
My 2008 looks exactly like that one. I'll go a step further and say the problem starts right away, no need to wait for those snap in fasteners to get old and brittle, they're just not water tight to begin with. Do you have any recommendations after attempting to mitigate this rust, inside and outside and completely filling in ALL of the holes, for finishing the entire area without re-using the plastic panels? Wood? Some other kind of thick epoxy coating, sculpted to the contour? Anything? Great video. I finally found someone who understands just how maddening (and criminal) this cover up job really is.
Actually the large holes on my van didn't even come (brand new) with the tape over them. Just open, gaping holes. My problem is I have advanced rust nearly all the way thru now.
Hi I've removed & sealed up my trims as per you're recommendations, it seems to be a controversial issue on installing insulation & vapor barrier with some people arguing to never insulate the inner cills themselves as you'll never get a 100% VB partly because of the cill drain holes. what your thoughts on these? What do you do with the cill drain holes after draining them in relation to this? thanks
Thanks for a great fix-tip and video. I don't own a Sprinter/Crafter van myself, but I have heard terrible stories about that flaw for a while now, and wants to share another one. The seal on the rear wheel arches (between the wheel tub and the outer panel) are so bad/sometimes even missing on some vans, that You need to re-seal it to keep the inside of your van free from water. There is otherwise a serious spray of water coming in to your van from the rear wheels. And like You say and many people have said, it's a shame that they get away with such idiotic constructions and sloppy works. Why don't people sue them :/
@@vangeezerexperience Do you always go around slamming company’s products based on unsubstantiated innuendo and without going into detail? BTW, I didn’t see any rust or rusty water in this video.
hi great little video! do you know if the holes for the plastics lead directly to the sills? im looking to cavity wax my van and was thinking i can kill 2 birds with one stone. thanks kev
Wouldn't it be much a more guaranteed seal/easier fix if you just caulked the perimeter of where the plastic panel's edges meet the metal body of the van?
How easy will it be to remove these panels afterwards. If the sealant is too good next time you can break the clips. I know those clips are relatively inexpensive but what kind of hell will I go through replacing them?
I think that thin plastic disc would be better to cover the hole, the hole was probable a need in production line for something thats my guess, I am after crafter not sure if it will be like that. Thanks...
sound advice, with the plastic trims, would it not be better to seal the clips into the holes, let the sealant go off, then put the trims on? with your method, if there is any surplus sealant about you could effectively end up glueing the panels on? and if you use silicone, you will find it's a pain when doing any paintwork
What a video to come across, I've just been given a 2012 Mercedes Sprinter, my plan is to do a conversion. Question I have, is it still easy to change the bulb on the side marker lights after doing this fix?
opinion only, but the clips once sealed to the van body will pull out of the trim piece itself. you will probably break one or two on occasion as the clips get brittle over time. but replacing plastic clips is better then water or rust.
You don't need to take any of the side panels off to change the side marker bulbs. Near the edge of the marker housing is an arrow - slide the marker that way and pull it out to change the bulb.
Another MOPAR van; the Fiat Ducato aka Ram Promaster ALSO requires this fix and needs to be sealed up along the wheel wells and on the back panels it also had a very badly designed air escape vent. All leak into the bottom of the walls / frame.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much for doing this. I’ve just retired and want my van to last as long as I do. We will be going everywhere together. I will do this asap as it’s 12 years old ❤️
Fantastic I shared it on self build campers having helped a friend do that job. Congratulations on how many people you help save their vans from rust. Your style of instruction and presentation makes you an excellent instructor and a pleasure to learn from.
Yupp 👍😎❤️👌👍
O.K. valid issue and your video is great in showing these problem areas in perfect detail. 👍
A few issues if I may though: I absolutely cringe 😖, when I see these sidepanels being removed with a bare metal screwdriver. You'll be putting scratches in the paintwork causing other corrosion issues.
You should also remove the trim clips from the bodywork using similar PLASTIC tools meant for the job.
And PLEASE: Remove the markers PRIOR to removing the panels to avoid damaged wiring whilst pulling the panel. The markers have an etched in arrow on one end of the lens, push them in that direction, lift them out and remove the bulb socket with a twist (as shown).
Replace ALL (125 on our LWB Crafter) clips with new FACTORY ones (don't use cheap Chinese knock-offs, they are brittle out of the bag). Add a waxing agent, "Mike Sanders" fluid or similar to the INSIDE areas aroud the clip holes. And only use a clip sealant, that remains flexible over time (we used Dekaseal).
We've done the lot on our 2014 Crafter and along with a Raptor coating on the side and lower panels, rust should not be an issue. 😎
Very good presentation, have a 2015 144 ex ambulance 906, ran a seal of silicone along the top of the plastic side piece all round and check drain holes regularly, works for me.
Mate I'm in the early stages of my own Sprinter conversion and came across your video by accident. This is next on my ever expanding list but a van saver. Great presentation.
The sprinters ALL rust in the body... this is a great tip!
I just snagged a 2011, i will be checking this asap!
I’m just about to start converting a new van. Glad I came across this video before I started. Great vid. Thanks
Great advice. One other thing I would add is to make sure that the narrow slotted drain holes are cleared with a piece of wire. One of mine was blocked & the panel full of water
How many narrow slotted drains per side budd ??… on an 07 plate
Soz xlwb 07
Can't thank you enough mate, brilliant, simple solution to a potentially serious future issue. I just got a new one and it will be one of the first things I do. I plan on keeping my rig till they put me under so want it to last. Much appreciated from the other side of the pond.
Thanks much, my Sprinter’s had a California life, little water so no such rust yet, but this is key for humid/rainy locales.
Superb video. Just doing my 2008 sprinter and the 50p discs are half off already. One has disappeared completely. Explains the surface rust on the inside of the box section! Thanks for this - the van may last another 10 years now!
Thanks for this. I'm getting a van to convert on a budget so I'm gathering the skills for remedial maintenance that I'm going to need on the van I can afford!
Great advice, thanks for sharing. Im doing my 2nd van fit out and already planning my 3rd. These are the things you don't think about till its too late. Thanks
You just ruined Mercedes-Benz' planned obsolescence...
Exactly. I have the '98 Sprinter with unbreakable engine. So they designed it with cheap steel otherwise nobody would ever buy a new van:)
I agree totally,,,, these alleged oversights are designed to fuck up your plan to keep a van for years,,,
Hard to believe this is a simple, undetected flaw, especially since it has been affecting sprinters over many years and fix is simple. On the other hand, these are commercial cars, so they tend to do high mileage and get beaten on the job.
Brilliant work. I would suggest using butyl tape as it allows for expansion and contraction in cold and hot weather
Accidentally came across this video and I'm glad I did.When i checked there were water marks , dirt inside the panels and also a few rust circles round some of the clips. Thanks
Liked, subbed and rung the bell! Invaluable info for people like me driving camper conversions over 10 years old with very low mileage, thinking that your maintenance regime will keep it looking and driving great indefinitely, only to find Mercedes themselves are shafting you. "kin pee's me off! The only issue I have had with my bodywork has been due to the installation of a window prior to delivery when new. It developed problems a few years later which shows that they couldn't even be bothered to seal the bodywork properly when cutting into a new £35k van. Would have taken less than a minute. Everything else as long as you keep it clean and serviced has been spot on. Although I am now dreading taking these panels off and finding anything. Great video, thanks. (Enjoyed your humour too!)
Fantastic advice thank you I am looking to get a an old sprinter early next year guess what I am doing first . 😊 thank you .
Thanks for sharing Bud - what a shocking design flaw! Unbelievable!
Going to do this on my Renault/Vauxhall van also. Water also came in and rusted inside and side panel of my van exactly because of this design fault. Thanks!
Must do mine ! Fortunately I’m in Spain and my sprinter is mint but moving north soon 🤔Thanks , subscribed 👍🏻
You remind me of Richard Hammond for some reason when he does top gear. Well done on showing us the fix!
Nice mate! just got a 2012 sprinter and starting my camper van convertion. first thing I will do ;)
Nice 1 Adam, after watching several other videos of Crafter and Sprinter owners sealing up their holes, yours is the first to highlight those larger 50p sized holes. I'm trying to think what they would of been for, but cannot think what, I first thought maybe for a 4x4, I know they have plastic trim over the rear arches, but this still doesn't make sense why those larger holes are there.
Maybe they are acces holes to ge to some hardware/bolts etc...
Thanks so so much we are just starting to convert our VW Crafter 2011 lwb, i am going to sort ours out in the next few weeks great video, its people like yourself sharing your knowledge and ideas that make it all worth while many thanks again...
Great video, I have a 906 2011, it gas virtually no rust, I want to keep it that way, for years. Its low mileage. Sikoflex is the product I ysed to install monumental scilpture we bonded really heavy items with it. Are there any drain holes I can empty any possible water from my sills
Thank you for this one.We just looked at a 2015 Sprinter LWB for sale in Chertsey England.It has Satnav it had Aircon.It had been owned by a landscape gardener.It is still for sale £11250.Luckily for us the seller had removed the ply lining off the walls which meant we could look into the the depths of the walls of the van inside.It had a perfect tide scum mark from the front of the load area to the back of the load area with soil/rust at the bottom.We walked away from it.Thank you for this vid we could have bought a load of trouble
Stevie, I was looking at that van in Chertsey, the photos I saw showed damp on the ply lining, I just bought a 66 plate for less than that. good luck with your hunt.
Hiya just done my plastic sides took about 2 hrs good job done thanks
Ian Trowsdale Nice work, glad the video helped and thanks for watching!
Great vid, word of advice to fellow van converters, some of the panels look very similar, such as the one on the sliding door and the one opposite, but they are slightly different, the clips are in a different location on each by about 1cm, varely noticeable until you got the thing covered in sikaflex and it won't go on😂
Just started a crafter, 16 plate, gonna do this straight away, thanks great video
We also used to run a bead of black silicone along the top of the black trim
One off the best vids THANKS PAL JOBS A GOOD EN
Thanks so much for that top tip, I have a planned Crafter build out for end of this year so these types of life saver videos are invaluable. Cheers!
Thank you for this video. This is the next step for my van when it comes back from paint .
Fantastic video.. but i do have a question, how easy is it to remove plastic pannel at a later date??
Excellent tips! Thank-you. Why not seal the edges of the plastics as well with clear sealant?
Great idea.. bonded to the van forever…if not rip it off and take all the paint with it….
great tip and note the same sikaflex is used to bond windscreens it sets in about 4 hours like rubber and will never let water through... its murder to get off your hands or parts of the van but does come off with the use of WD40 ... best not to get messy with it in the first place..... great tip though & something id never of considered without you pointing it out cheers bud
I'd probably use a marine grade sealant/adhesive on those holes. I can't see any reason for needing to unseal them anytime soon. I'm talking about the plastic round patches now, not the clips that really hold the trim in. For instance, 3M Marine 5200 adhesive sealant. That stuff will probably survive the apocalypse. Although, why not - 5200 is permanent as heck, so if you use that, those side panel grommets aren't coming off without violence. But the plastic might still come out, but replacing any of the grommets will probably be a bit more painful.
Ive just bought 15 plate crafter so thsnks for the warning mate ill look into this
Brilliant video thanks for sharing. I'm glad I've watched it.
Will share it with my friends 👍
Please can I ask which number sealant you used
as I just looked online and there's lots of different numbers for the sealant you say use.
Thank you
For any replies.
Best wishes.
great video mate, would you recommend doing the same on a Ducato?
brilliant, thank you! I had found out about this, but your video is the absolute best at explaining it all really easily.
Thanks for the video. I have a leak and rust on the inside wall behind the driver seat. This is probably the culprit. I will pull the panel and reseal.
I think the side rail is also to be checked for leaks, and in my case, the back door rubber seal at the top was letting water in the crack between 2 body parts that were not sealed properly (gummy material was missing). Reapplied silicon all along the body parts hidden by the seal. Hopefully no more leaks
14:06 and when i'm that far with my sprinter, then i will seal off the plastic trim all around so no water can run behind it. And for the side lamp i would
use a silicone based sealant because that's easy to remove in case a new light bulb is needed.
Having just brought my crafter this is great
never thought of those trim pieces doing that... plan on a ram promaster but i bet that one would have the same issues too. thanks again for the tip
Good video. Recently found out about this issue. Which is after I'd done my conversion. Definitely on my things to do list
Also clear the drain holes at the bottom of the panels (Regularly!)
If you don't you could be driving around with a buckets worth of water rusting away
great vid seen one were a guy just sicoflexed the hole trim sealed it all the way round
I just bought a 2016 crafter du recon this needs the same treatment cheers
Thank you for your videos! They're so clear and well-filmed. I really appreciate you sharing all this knowledge. And now I know what my next job on the van is ;)
I guess Im asking randomly but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost the login password. I love any tips you can give me
@Yehuda Nehemiah Instablaster ;)
@Deshawn Enrique thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Deshawn Enrique It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Yehuda Nehemiah happy to help :)
So,. How do you ever get the trim off without breaking the clip holders on the trim (this ruining the attachments) after you seal the clips to the body?
can you still change the bulbs on the side lights ?
Great Job 👍🏽.
One question - why you put the clips firstin the panel and then the Sika to the clips and all together with the panel to the car? Why not putting Sika on the clip and then the clip to the car and after the Sika dryed put on the panel?
Any reason to do it that way?
Thanks for the video. Under my sprinter panels was an absurd amount of rust holes which caused major leakage into my vehicle. I have fiberglass patched all of the rust holes but I would like to apply a sealant to the top and bottom of the side panels on the outside of my van. Would you recommend this and if so, what type of sealant would work best? Thanks!
Awesome video. Did you have any issues with removing the panel after sealing the clips and then putting it back on?
My Crafter leaks. It's 2nd hand 13 plate and I noticed water run marks from the trim clips and damp inside. This explains why! What a poor design - mind you VW/Merc want it to rot so you will buy another. 🤔
On the back of your fix, I would advise anyone buying a 2nd hand Crafter/Sprinter to do this as a matter of course. The 1st things to get damaged in a scrape are the trims. (It's what they're there for). If (When - I defy you to show me a 2nd hand van without a bump) your van has had a scrape, the repairer might not have put everything back right. Even to the point of not replacing all the clips?
Thanks for a good fix tip👌
Another rot point on Crafter/ Sprinters is the side door track between the stainless steel runner and body. (Mine has it's own little eco system growing there.) Give it a good drink of water displacer (WD40 or alternative). It looks messy but at least you will have something left to clean and polish.
May 2022 update - Finally got round to sealing the trim clips. I found that some of the clips were destroyed on removal so replaced with new from eBay along with Sikaflex.
They were mostly flithy where the rainwater, salt and roadmuck had gotten behind them. Got me thinking why? Then I was struck by a revelation - as you are moving, there is a pressure difference between the inside and outside of the van. so wherever there is a small gap there will be at times a suction pulling water in.
Do the wheel arches come off the same way, with the t20 for the screw and then the snap fittings? Great video. I don’t have one yet but looking at a one or two year old used one in the near future.
Or on the citroen relay. Got the same problem.
Awesome video and really easy to see what to do. I need to do this on my van and this video is perfect! Thanks so much!
My panels are warping on a 2020 MB van. Hopefully I can fix them with this fix
Great tip. Could this not be done from inside the van when its completely empty, without taking the trim off?
No
Is this the same case with the 2019 model sprinter?
All vans have this problem
It is the same yes. Check out owlvans. American company sell a strip to install that doesn’t require removing trims.
how about investing in the right trim removal tools?
Thx for this input. One question: what about the hole for the sidelight cable?? Why didn’t you seal that as well?
Because that had a rubber grommet already installed 👍
Black Rock Outfitters , thx for reply
My 2008 looks exactly like that one. I'll go a step further and say the problem starts right away, no need to wait for those snap in fasteners to get old and brittle, they're just not water tight to begin with. Do you have any recommendations after attempting to mitigate this rust, inside and outside and completely filling in ALL of the holes, for finishing the entire area without re-using the plastic panels? Wood? Some other kind of thick epoxy coating, sculpted to the contour? Anything? Great video. I finally found someone who understands just how maddening (and criminal) this cover up job really is.
Actually the large holes on my van didn't even come (brand new) with the tape over them. Just open, gaping holes. My problem is I have advanced rust nearly all the way thru now.
Hi I've removed & sealed up my trims as per you're recommendations, it seems to be a controversial issue on installing insulation & vapor barrier with some people arguing to never insulate the inner cills themselves as you'll never get a 100% VB partly because of the cill drain holes. what your thoughts on these? What do you do with the cill drain holes after draining them in relation to this? thanks
So if you want to replace the side light markers, you'll do what now?
Can you still change the bulb in the future?
Thanks for a great fix-tip and video. I don't own a Sprinter/Crafter van myself, but I have heard terrible stories about that flaw for a while now, and wants to share another one. The seal on the rear wheel arches (between the wheel tub and the outer panel) are so bad/sometimes even missing on some vans, that You need to re-seal it to keep the inside of your van free from water. There is otherwise a serious spray of water coming in to your van from the rear wheels. And like You say and many people have said, it's a shame that they get away with such idiotic constructions and sloppy works. Why don't people sue them :/
Were those terrible stories coming from transit owners who have to hate on the sprinter because they can’t afford one?
Why are you watching fix it tips for vehicle you don’t own?
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath Are You serious or just 12 y.o?
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath Because back in those days (2 years ago) I was looking for a new van. It is always good to do consumer research.
@@vangeezerexperience Do you always go around slamming company’s products based on unsubstantiated innuendo and without going into detail? BTW, I didn’t see any rust or rusty water in this video.
hi great little video! do you know if the holes for the plastics lead directly to the sills? im looking to cavity wax my van and was thinking i can kill 2 birds with one stone. thanks kev
Super detailed and positive-It makes doing this very possible-and as you say- you must. Thank you.
Wouldn't it be much a more guaranteed seal/easier fix if you just caulked the perimeter of where the plastic panel's edges meet the metal body of the van?
Until you want to remove the trims.
Very excellent video. Thanks mate
Do you know if this is still a problem with the new Crafters?
Thank you so much for this video iv got the problem now with water coming in....thank you
Great advice buddy thanks 😆John york be crafter
How easy will it be to remove these panels afterwards. If the sealant is too good next time you can break the clips. I know those clips are relatively inexpensive but what kind of hell will I go through replacing them?
How often will you remove the panel? Buying a bag of clips or letting your van rust...choice is easy if you ask me.
Everytime you need to replace the light bulb?
@@TheFriesennerz You dont remove the plastics to change a bulb, the bulb holder pops out 👍
Black Rock Outfitters: thanks, that makes sense.
@@blackrockoutfitters78 Answered the question I came here to ask. Thank you.
Very good. So why do Merc or VW put that black plastic strip there at all? I mean, what's it for, what's it do? Alan, in Norfolk.
Great Video Only issue is when the side light bulb needs changing.....
Mark T The side bulb holder comes out on its own for easy access mate so no problem there.
@@blackrockoutfitters78 Thanks Pal
sooooooooooooo glad i watched this, thank you! anyone know how many clips on a long wheelbase sprinter?
I think that thin plastic disc would be better to cover the hole, the hole was probable a need in production line for something thats my guess, I am after crafter not sure if it will be like that. Thanks...
Great informative vid, thank you. I'm just about to tackle a few rust spots on my 2009 Sprinter and found your vid on a YT trawl, subscribed.
sound advice, with the plastic trims, would it not be better to seal the clips into the holes, let the sealant go off, then put the trims on? with your method, if there is any surplus sealant about you could effectively end up glueing the panels on?
and if you use silicone, you will find it's a pain when doing any paintwork
I was thinking that. I mean is there a reason to take the trim off? Seems like he’s stuck it on there
Which type of Sikaflex sealant did you use?
There’s lots out there, He probably used tiger seal
What a video to come across, I've just been given a 2012 Mercedes Sprinter, my plan is to do a conversion. Question I have, is it still easy to change the bulb on the side marker lights after doing this fix?
What happens if you need to change that bulb in that light? Do the clips still come out to allow this?
Nice one Adam, thanks for the great gen
Great video, but how do you drain the water out first.?
What about the light socket? It seems like a massive hole as well?
Hi there, have got the plastic wheel arch trims in stock for a lwb sprinter?
Does anyone know if the 2021 Vans still have this issue??
How do you change the side lights later then?
opinion only, but the clips once sealed to the van body will pull out of the trim piece itself. you will probably break one or two on occasion as the clips get brittle over time. but replacing plastic clips is better then water or rust.
What about the big hole of the position light, is that well enough sealed from factory side?
What happens if you need to change the bulb?
You don't need to take any of the side panels off to change the side marker bulbs. Near the edge of the marker housing is an arrow - slide the marker that way and pull it out to change the bulb.
Another MOPAR van; the Fiat Ducato aka Ram Promaster ALSO requires this fix and needs to be sealed up along the wheel wells and on the back panels it also had a very badly designed air escape vent. All leak into the bottom of the walls / frame.
Feel better that I have a TN1 with no cladding .Stickers for hole covers??? Crazy good info
Unserstand so far but whats about the hole for the light?