I forgot to mention I am using a 310 tip @ 600 PSI. While we did get the Emerald Urethane to layout very smooth, I know it can still be better. The ProClassic Hybrid did decent, I could've sprayed it slower and changed the outcome. It did eventually level out a little bit better. I am still waiting on the outcome of the oil.
Emerald Urethane for the WIN! It's expensive but well worth it. Combine it with HVLP and it does really well. We usually put a little bit of water with the urethane to thin it down. That may not be necessary with your sprayer but needed with HVLP. If you try and use paint thinner with the the urethane, the thinner will sit on top and not mix in, fyi. Great video man
Finish Carpentry TV I’d bump up the pressure a bit, 600 psi is crazy low. You can see your pump fluctuate tons on the second door, and too much fingering on the third door. But definitely a decent little unit!
I am just a diy guy looking to upgrade my home. I have learned so much by watching your videos! From the bottom of my heart, Thank you! Your a great teacher and a extremely talented craftsman!!!
Been using Emerald urethane for some time now. Best product I know for wood finish. Try laying the doors. It will let the paint level and diminish orange peel effect. This will also let you put more product on without runs. Most importantly, sand the primer and between finish coats with 220 grit. Been painting for 10 years now, found this to give the smoothest finish.
Agreed. When I used Emerald Urethane 2 years ago, laying the cabinet doors down and applying a nice thick coat worked really well for self leveling. Dries really really slow tho. Vertical surfaces did still have just the faintest orange peel texture. You had to have light and viewing angle just to see it. The threshold for moving from orange peel to dripping while painting vertical surfaces is tricky. You must spray enough of a coat to eliminate the orange peel texture, but not too much to where the paint will run on the vertical surface. This is why you should lay things flat when you are able.
Well Richard, you've received quite alot of replies. Most of them are well intentioned but, for the most part, are just that. My advise to you, if you;re even interested, is to continue experimenting. I have been a custom painter for 43 years. I have worked most of that time as a high end painter in places like Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Cheviot Hills, etc... you probably wont acheive the results you're looking for without experience and the only way to get experience is to keep at it. Those of us with years of experience usually approach each project without even thinking about what we are doing. For example, I'm not even sure what presure setting I use for each product I spray. I have put up thousands of gallons of lacquer, oil, acrylic and a fair amount of the new water based lacquers. It is usually so routine that I just set it up by the way it feels. The old saying "Practice makes perfect" still applies. I sure like your videos. I hope you're around for years to come sharing your talents with us. Keep up the good work Richard. Bob.
Jerkster being that it’s not an easy life doing this messy work all day long. When a painter does get recognized for some nice faux finish work Or doing a nice antique finish on a set of custom cabinets and sprayed. It’s not boasting, just appreciating a job well done. After 45 yrs as a painting contractor, I have met a lot of proud boasting cabinet makers. I never stop learning, I have spent many hours looking at auto body painting, especially prep. These guys deserve a lot of praise for what they can pull off. I’ve sprayed some cars ,and it’s not an easy trade. Everyone who picks up a paintbrush isn’t a real painter, just as a guy who pounds a nail with a hammer isn’t a real carpenter. I don’t like boasting about my work, I just get annoyed by these guys on RUclips that think their way is just so perfect as to Profess it the way they do. Imagine how they might think after painting high end work for 45 yrs compared to the slop they’re turning out After just a few yrs in the business painting like mommy homeowner can do just like them.
I think that a lot of people have already addressed the pressure. Also it is a good idea to keep your gun to one base. Also when using water based finishes stay away from the oil based tack cloths. We only run water based finishes in my shop and we use micro fiber cloths,works great. We run the same rig as well.
I have used the emerald for a couple of years now and i love the finished look. Satin or semi-gloss, either one looks good. I leave it to the customer preference. One thing i do is hit the sides first to avoid overspray on the front part of the door which is the money shot. Great job. I am a huge fan and i have watched all your videos.
I had occasion to do some spraying of doors, I used a waterbase paint and I added Floetrol to the point and I got a much better finish. I think we get orange peel because the paint is drying while being sprayed and so goes on "chunky." The Floetrol may be the answer to your issue. Best regards.
Hey Richard Couple things: 310 ok (especially for shellac) 410/12 for top coat. 1200 minimum for pressure with graco fflp imo Keep distance about 12" and slow it down. (Hit close on edges only) Also mixing shellac/thinner and water will mess up ur lines long term. A litlle solvent stays trapped and when u spray ur waterbased paints you may begin to see pinholes in ur top coat from thinner trying to escape. Best to keep ur topcoat sprayer dedicated to waterbased. Thx for all ur help with the carpentry you've tought me alot👊
Incredibly impressive how you spent the day just honing your craft and teaching yourself and asking for feedback you were just like ..blow my mind...Involves so much work having to clean that sprayer every time between coats and then you’re gonna repeat it to make sure you got everything the way you need to
I'm not a painter by any means, however, nice touch with the drone footage! To me your video production skills are improving nicely. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder. I did get a kick out of felling for texture with the glove, reminds of something I would do!
On my last build I used the green fflp tip with Benjamin Moore Advance. It has it's own primer as well. Be careful not to get too close or it hangs and sags. Levels great but it's the slowest drying waterborne alkyd out there.
I've got a few tips: 1. First scuff with 400 grit and wipe with tack cloth followed by a wipe down with solvent based deglosser. 2. I like cover stain as a bond coat, to me it seems like it sands better. 3. Lay the doors down on some horses to spray, this helps the paint lay down vs hanging. 4. IMO Properly prepared Oil based alkyd with the right amounts of penetrol and thinner will always provide a nicer finish than any hybrids, even with extenders in them. 5. I usually hit my doors with one light flash coat followed by a nice heavier wet coat
Dude, I love your videos. It's nice to see somebody who cares about what they do. I do a lot of finishing and furniture repair and restoration on the side. Finishing is how I lost all my hair as a matter of fact. You can only pull so much out until it's gone. I use a Fuji 4 stage turbine HVLP. It was also around six hundred bucks. You, being a trim man know that the devil's in the details. I pretty much do things the way you do other than I normally lay my doors down flat on a set of horses I have made just for that. It seems I worry less about runs that way. And your finish also starts to lay out faster. We do more stains and clear finishes than we do paint grade but, we always sand between every coat. So it seems to me you're doing all right and the next thing you'll have to figure out is how to get a production line going. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
I know nothing about painting , but i know if it was me , i would paint the edges first then the main panel , it seems to me as if doing the edges last you will compromise the finish on the main panel . , but it's just an opinion .
Jim Shaw, you're actually right man. Spraying the edges last will leave a build up of paint on the face. Which is why he got the textured look. Luckily the first two products are very forgiving and will lay down properly.
I'm a union painter here in New Jersey and I gotta say your work is a pleasure to watch. You are very meticulous with a lot of attention to detail. Very refreshing since production is more of the norm these days as opposed to quality.
My business is based on details. Customers really enjoy value for their hard earned money spent. The slap it together and let it ride sucks at best. All I know my clients refer me to there friends without me asking. The proof is always in the pudding.
Your right when you were moving slower the first coat definitely improved. If you go back and look when you did the primer you see that the coverage wasn't as good as when you slowed down for the Emerald Urethane. I usually spray stays and polyurethane, but I go in knowing that I am going to do 3 or 4 coats of each with a light sanding between coats and I really take my time for the last stain coat and the last poly coat. Good video.
just to add 2c i use a diff technique to wipe with the tack cloth. Long strokes same direction using a diff part every time i wrap the cloth in soft foam and wipe. Don`t know your system but i have to change nozzles for each type. High heat will mess up your finish get a thermo/hygrometer and keep records. Dont want to sound i know it all (not by far). Thanks a lot for sharing man always pick up somthing. :D peter
It’s all about Tip, Pressure, Distance, Technique and speed. Select the tip for the job, for this work you need the FFLP tip from Graco, fine finish tips all end in an even number 08, 10, 12, 14 etc, this is the size of the tip in thousands of an inch, the first number 2, 3, 4, 5 etc ate the angle in degrees, 20 degrees, 30 degrees etc. If you want to know what size fan that should give you, then double that first number and that should be your fan width in inches, if it’s wider than that your too far away, narrower is too close (distance). Setting your pressure just takes a sharp eye, after priming the pump turn the pressure to approx 1/3rd of its pressure, take the gun with tip and guard attached, remove the safety for the trigger and spray a stripe on some card or other waste flat item, if you can see stripes in the paint pattern then increase the pressure until they disappear , that’s your set pressure. If the pressure is too high you will create lots of overspray and vastly increase your chance of getting creators or pitting in the finish. Technique, even stripes are essential, after you lay down the first stripe, use the edge of that stripe as a guide for where the centre of the next stripe begins so you have a 50-50 overlap (gives depth and coverage of the paint), then when you do the edges, you still work with a wet edge all round. If you watch the way the paint lays down from the gun you will see how it builds and flows out, keep your speed so you get a nice even coat but not so much as to create runs. If the coating is going on too thick then speed up a little if too thin then slow down but if you are having to move too fast to be comfortable then come down a size on your tip (if using a “412” then come down to a 410 or 408).
Floetrol. For the latex, especially in that heat, I found that almost all paints lay out with orange peel and then level out, un less they dry too fast
I’m not an expert but I’m a finish carpenter to is trying to improve my ability to stain and spray my work. One thing I see you doing that I did and when I changed it it really helped was using a wider fan. I would you a 510 for those. I found it easier to get a good consistent overlap which made the finish layout smoother. Hope that helps. I also use a graco contractor II gun which I really like.
Hey I have painted for 35 years and think you’re doing an excellent job. Only one coat of primer is needed. It is not a topcoat or a color coat it is merely primer, something for the paint to hang on to. On another note you do not sand those doors to smooth them out but rather to give them tooth as they say in the painting business.
Like I said before I don't paint I watch your videos because your a great Craftsmen and have much respect for you your an honest dude operator error how many people would actually say that great video keep up the pride in your work
Heat /Temp/Humidity/Product used. Then get in your groove. I have been finishing for over 40 years. One of the few master finish carpenters that still do that sort of thing. Oil Benjamin moore Impervo always gives me the best results. Looks like glass when it is put down the right way. I learned from ole timers years ago with oil and all other latex semi's. One Direction with the brush and feather once. Prime with BM oil as well. Sand lightly between coats. For latex the Benjamin Moore ADVANCE® Interior Paint great finish. Try it out fantastic. 1/8" finish roller 4" then feather with 3" purdy. I do doors like this as well. It gives it that ole time charm and classic finish instead of a sprayed perfect look. Best man hope it helps. You stuff looks great as usual.
@@vitex1231 Finish Roller small 4 inch. Sure Line used to make them. 16 hours at least. High Humiidty figure 5 days. It takes Latex 30 Days to cure. Oil one Week. Advance High Gloss. Interior Exterior
On bigger flatter panels like those. Use a larger first number. The 310 your using (3) being fan width which is actually 6 and (10) being the orifice size. A 10 is good for medium thickness paints. The thinner the paints the smaller the orifice size needed to atomized properly. But because your spraying wide flat panels use a 410 tip and up the pressure. You should over lap your fan patterns by aiming the middle of each pass at the edge of the pass before.
I like to use a FFLP tip with pro classic on trim. Also try bumping up the psi if it isn't laying out flat. The guy saying it's not meant to be sprayed is completely wrong.
I don’t typically comment, but I have always liked your videos. I own a cabinet shop and we use air assured airless. It’s expensive, but it comes out like glass. I found a used one with a gun less than 500. Food for thought. Good job.
I painted for 25 years. Only get so good up to the point where your equipment can not do better. After a few years experience buy a quality sprayer like the kremlin with high end gun like excite 150. Then you will master the products as you choose and use them. Graco will only take you so far. Cheers
I have been waiting for 35 years. We always separate our doors To another area after we spray them because of the Overspray dust flying in the air. It will land on your new finished door and make it rough. Thank you for your videos
Another thing to consider you are spraying in a garage with high humidity and no ventilation whatsoever, advance and proclassic are meant to be sprayed in an area with very low humidity, in a room at around 72 degrees proclassic if sprayed correctly should look like oil very smooth finish, but also your prep and spray method has alot to do with it as well
I use the pro classic alkyd urethane on cabinets. I use the the Sherwin Williams latex primer. Smaller tip. I'm no pro painter just went into Sherwin Williams one day talked with 3 of the guys there and have been using the same combo for about a year. Never an issue. Customer love it and it holds up to abuse well. The thing with paint is I hate it but seems like I end up doing it a lot. Our businesses are so much a like. Name of my company is Y Co Carpentry in St George UT.
If you will look at the specs on the pro classic waterborne paint you would see they recommend using a .010 to .014 tip at 2000 psi for fine finish work. It's a good idea to read the application recommendations on the paint you are using for a better result. I use a 311 tip for that on cabinets.
New spray paint gun are always hard to get the perfect finish they are like a new guy needs I few days to learn how to do staff righ but good video thank you.
Emerald is one the best products for sure we use it on all our cabinets. I don't quite like that Graco sprayer the pressure varries to much. I prefer Titan 655 Graco 395 ultra. I adjust my pressure as needed with fflp 410 tip. Good video 👍
Richard, I like you have been looking for the ultimate smooth finish using a airless. Here is what I found works for me. Airless set at 1300psi Tip FFLP 310 or you could use a FFLP 308 which would give a little smoother finish. Paint PPG Breakthrough satin with 1 cap of floetrol added to each quart and mixed for 1 minute. Spraying technique looks good moving quicker helps. I also found that if you spray the piece horizontal and not vertical it lays down better and has no chance to sag or run on you. PPG Breakthrough dies in 15 minuets in heat of 105 degrees, watch out for blisters in the paint with those temps. Hope this helps.
Hi, this is a well done video. I am a professional painter from Canada so we don't have to deal with 107-degree temps :) I use may sprayers for quite a few jobs and although the Graco RAC X Fine Finish Low-Pressure tips allow for a finer finish with an airless it is almost impossible to get a super flat and smooth finish. Even at 600 psi, you will still get that orange peel finish that you referred to. I use my Graco hvlp unit for most trim and cabinet jobs. With less pressure, the paint will flatten better for you. I also us Benjamin Moore Advance, it is a waterborne alkyd, it is pretty well the only paint that I have found that flattens like an oil. (if you are committed to using the airless, play with the pressure and maybe be a little further from your work surface, it might help with the finished look) Hope that this gives you some ideas on how to improve that finish, also, as mentioned by a previous responder, experience and trial and error is the best teacher.
Did you add any paint retarder? Something like Floetrol? These additives help slow down the drying time of the paint and give it time to flow out smooth before drying. I sprayed all the trim and doors in my last home reno. I found the tip size plays a huge part in getting a glass like finish. You can find a tip that matches your natural speed. One other important part I learned is you can never vacuum the trim too much.
I have been trying different options lately painting built-ins...I use a fugi mini mite 5 in lieu of the airless. Have had some luck with ppg breakthrough, I would say 95% shop finish. I spray onsite mainly. Primer and sanding is key with that product. Breakthrough does best with thin coats...and it drys very fast and feels hard to the touch. I can get 3 coats in one day if necessary. If you like oil, I think you would like BM advanced. It lays down similar to oil and hides flaws better than breakthrough. But it takes forever to dry/cure. The time btw coats is its main downfall. Another thing I noticed...you can’t judge breakthrough or advanced while they are wet. They always look like crap wet, I have stressed myself out many times looking at wet paint between coats.
Your probably going to think I am sounding like a know it all but I have been down the road you are going and I am constantly trying new stuff. I have tested all the sherwin williams stuff and if you are looking for that banging finish your going to have to get into the cabinet water base finishes such as the Kem Aqua, Saylerlack, Target, CIC, ML Campbell, or Melesi stuff. All of those companies have great products. For whatever reason the pro classic works best in the semi gloss. The satin leaves it somewhat with a grainy feel. Best of luck and I hope you find the combination you are looking for.
Oil all the way. On my oil base airless i use the fine mesh filters in the gun and pump filter for oil-base enamels along with the fine finish tips instead of the filters that come standard. Lightly Thin with naphtha to speed up drying and so that it hangs on instead of drips. Silky smooth finish. #graco #love
Try bear paint, the sprayer is like the auto body shop sprayer long slow movement from top to bottom or bottom to top one long spray with a little over spary so it dont dip on the edges. I use oil based paint for metal not wood material if you use oil based you need to add paint thinner to help the paint spray e-zer. I use a non latex type or semi gloss finish But it's the priming coat that makes the difference.
I think tack cloths are wax impregnated cheese cloth. Just found your channel and I'm enjoying it. I did a major kitchen reno when my son was 2. He's 23 now. Maybe I will finish the moldings one day....
If you use an extender it will increase drying time and give the paint time to level out. Using an extender instead of water doesn't compromise the integrity of the paint. Thanks for your content, good job. Nick the painter
pro classic oil base 411 tip turn pressure up a bit more. if tip is blown a little get a new one, if fan is to large go smaller tip that is. this is what worked for me in the past. titan 440 is what I used on wood works. like that graco you use. Never seen that gx19 before. hvlp sprayers work good on wood works, I am just not a fan of them they are more time consuming. good work
I knew a paint and body shop owner that could not get the finish he wanted with house painters, they all had orange peel! So he brought in his corvett guy and he put a car finish on the cabinets by fiberglassing the doors and frames! They were sanded in between coats and did a final wet sanding to get a slick finish! I think he paid more for the finish of the cabinets than he did for the build! But he was happy!
I haven't read through all of the comments, but I'm going to guess that because of the temps in the garage, the paint was drying way too fast. It didn't have enough to level out. You could try adding some Floetrol to the paint, and that will extend the dry time. You could also spray the doors out as they're laying horizontally. In that position, you can lay on the paint a little bit heavier, which will also slightly extend the dry time. The reason that the door you sprayed out with Pro Classic didn't feel as smooth as the Emerald doors, is because they might have gotten hit with the Emerald overspray. Good to hear that you enjoy the paint/staining part of the job as much as you like the carpentry. It shows in your work. Oh, one last thing- a cabinet painter that I know claims that compressed air is the only way to make sure that you've got all of the sanding dust off of your material. Tack cloths are okay, but they don't get everything.
Hey man long time subscriber I’m a cabinetmaker in Alabama ,,I thought about this video and figured I would share my experience we use a graco airless as well sprayed SW emerald for years wanted to recommend a paint for you to try Milesi it’s a total game changer it’s also water base if you can find a dealer around you should definitely give it a shot!!
I use a Greco 635tip @ 2800psi, contractor series gun with a 42 inch Titan spray Pole with a swivel. For the sprayer I use a Greco 7500. Fine finish filters in the gun and the sprayer. Running 2 150 foot lines. Two guys 1500 doors a day..
By the way I’ve never use tack clothes because they left some remaining wax on the surface . If you using denatured alcohol wet a microfiber and clean it out that’s the best way to clean up a wood surface .
I sprayed lacquer finishes on my builds for many years in SoCal where it can be hot and dry. The way I found to get the best finish is to do a crisscross pattern. Spray all the edges first of course and then spray the flat part in one direction first and the the other (vertical and then horizontal if you will) being careful not to overdue it. A bit lighter pass than if you were just doing one pass. Hope that helps. Good videos :)
i've been painting for 10 years or something, and i used Emerald for the first time last year when it came out. I sprayed all my doors and brushed out all my trim, and both have a glass like smoothness to them. Its also supposed to be the hardest paint for trim out there so it should last a long time (we'll see about that). I did notice that Emerald Satin is a TRUE satin and has almost no shine, unlike some of the other trim paints satin which seem like semi gloss (like Ben Moore Advance). Thanks for doing the comparison!
You're doing it right, sanding between all coats and tacking. One suggestion is to spray the edges of the door first and you will avoid getting a fog or mist of paint on the face.
I have a couple airless units and an HVLP, so I have a little experience. Buy a 5 stage HVLP, a medium flow tip, and add some water to thin your paint a little. It'll give you a smoother finish, less over-spray, faster cleanup, and in general is easier to use. The only con is you can only hold a limited amount of paint, if you don't have a pressure pot. Even still, a gravity feed gun (2/3 quart) will give you enough paint to spray around 100 SF. Good luck
Another great video, I would have to agree to turning the pressure up a little, also use Ben Moore cabinet coat,very low odor and beautiful finish. Just finished painting 47 cabinets for a retail store with it could not be happier
great video I like the sprayer to, Emerald and pro ind. are the same paint the emerald covers better try thinning the emerald with water i like how your are not afraid to ask for suggestions on what you could improve on, that shows some one who cares and with that attitude you will go far , I can teach you to do a task but I can't teach you to CARE
Hello, I`m from Spain , I`ve had tried a lot to have a good finishing with different sprayers and materials. Basicly the secret is to get the right pressure, right thinning and the right hand speed movement. HVLP is great but slowly , airmix is the better sprayer. Thanks for your videos
Custom home painter in Canada. We use Kem Aqua plus over SW multipurpose oil based primer. You have to do 2 light coats or it will run and sag, probably twice the speed you just did. SW multipurpose we thin about 20 % with toluene to be able to spray out of a. 012 tip. We sand the first coat of finish, the increased surface area of the "rough" primer helps with the bond between oil and water based coatings. Oil base sands to a glass finish and its like trying to get paint to stick to glass if you sand your primer smooth. Oil base stops the grain raise of mdf and will probably give you the smoothest results I used to swear by ppg breakthrough. They are having durability concerns on cabinets and we switch to Kem Aqua from Sw. Slightly longer dry and tack off times but half the price. Also never try ppg aquacron, it can't be sprayed with a low pressure tip at anything less than 3300
While painting has a bit of wizardry to it, im fairly certain painting @ 105f is outside the working paramaters of spraying that paint. I think you might be flashing off too fast, leading to the roughness because the paint cannot flatten out before drying in that heat.
Try some Benjamin Moore Advanced. I recently laid some of it down on a pair of shaker style cabinet doors (popular frames & MDF panels) and I was very impressed. Great video!
I don't know about oil but if your using water based products and end up with a textured appearance try using Latex X-Tender. It's a must for hvlp and airless, It also buys you some time when painting in High heat.
Emerald urethane over primer is your go to. It self levels wonderfully if you put it on wet enough. It looks like your pressure could have been a bit lower. 😊. Nice job overall and thank you.
Awesome job. We have three exterior doors to paint on our house 3 on the garage, two bathroom doors and three sets of closet doors to paint. We got a Graco sprayer, had decided to use BIN shellac. Emerald was what I was going to use. I really, really thank you for this video. I feel more confident now.
Now as for the paint sprayer, I have found one of the smaller hand held units, airless sprayer's with the screw on canister's works really well on trim from my past experience. Needless to say, the instructional videos from Graco talk about taking slow, passes on whatever it is you are painting. As well as, overlapping the passes, as you were doing in this video. As for the tip, I have a 313 that I use most of the time, and a 515 that I only use when I am covering a larger area! Although, I believe the 4-6 inch fan size is probably as wide as you would ever want to go. Plus everyone I ever learned from when I was younger always sprayed from left to right. Not saying they were right, that is just how they did it. However, they were some pretty good painters, and even now, are still back up with work.
When spraying doors or wider pieces, even cabinet doors, I like a tip with a wider fan, like a 517, just seems as though I get a better finish, I use a Graco 390 tall boy. Just a suggestion
BTW I do a lot of trim carpentry and spraying also, love watching your productions, 2 thumbs up, and I used your technique for building recessed wainscoting, keep em coming 👍👍
I know I am way late on this, but, you can use ammonia to clean BIN out of your sprayer. It smells like death but is way cheaper than denatured alcohol
If you can use warm water to wash your rig out then use warm water . If your using oilbase paints in your machine then use mineral spirit. What ever type of material you use to use the correct cleaner through your machine. It will tell you on the paint can what cleaner to use. I still wouldn't mix spraying waterborne then oilbase with the same rig
First of all I would just like to say that I watch your videos and enjoy not only the way you do them but also the quality and the craftsmanship of your work. For a smoother finish I would try thinning down your paint a little and maybe using a small amount of Floetrol in it. I have found that you seldom get a good finish with paint straight out of the can. Second you may try a quick tack coat then a full coat after that. This will give the paint something to grab on to and minimize the chances of the water based paint to run. That is something I have done in the past and it works well on slick surfaces with water based paints. Thanks again for all your videos. .
Maybe the temperature was affecting the finish a bit, causing the surface layer to tack up in its original sprayed pattern instead of laying down evenly. I’m not a professional by any means but I’m thinking this may be similar to how texture dries differently on mud rather than on the paper of the drywall panel
The speed you move you hand with depend on your personal satisfaction of the coverage of the surface you spray. That's my opinion after 10 years of spraying. You might be interested to try cross spraying. Do your primer up and down , first coat left to right and final coat up and down again. It gives a better coverage... I think.
3 thin coats for latex products with extender, small tip. A light tac coat for oils let tac coat get sticky to the touch. Holds final coat from running. White lacquer undercoat
if you can stand the smell and fumes Use solid based Laquers. They are much finer and more durable and takes seconds to dry and let's you do more production faster
Pro Industrial Water Based Alkyd Urethane you can get it a Sherwin- Williams it's great for that stuff, like other people where saying edges first, tip up, work smooth, think of everything BEFORE you spray, and watch you're over lap 30 to 50 percent depending on tip size (second number)
I know what your issue is. 1.Use a larger tip ( like a 312 FF) Bigger fan and more material. 2. Turn that spray nozzle vertical. This way your fan passes are even every time. That texture is considered orange peel, the result of not applying enough paint. There is a fine line between success and disaster when spraying. Too little paint= orange peel finish Too much paint= drips You have to be right inbetween!
Ive been spraying for about 14 years. temperature doesnt affect the finish but the humidity level does. dryer atmospheres will give the paint a rough finish with light coats. from what I saw you had your pressure too low and the paint looked pretty thick. It's ok to dilute paint with clean water to help it move easier through the tip. you also want to use a tip that sprays a wider fan to minimize lines or streaks. I like to use a 411 or 413 tip for doors but sometimes I use 511 or 513. and keep a distance of about 12 to 14 inches away. On a Graco 595 Airless. We always use Benjamin Moore products and never had a single issue. hope that helps, cheers from Washington State
Don't listen to Ceasar never thin out paints, the chemists whom make paint have built in tolerance for thinning but do not recommend it, if you need to thin out paint your pump is worn down or you are spraying with a blown tip.
@@dorosco74 Ok. I only paint for a living. I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing. you can go and do what manufacturers tell you to do. in the end they just want you to buy more paint because no matter how many coats you apply, it'll always look like crap with all the orange peel you'll leave with your thick paint.
14 YRS, and you are still learning how to paint the right way? Your reply tells me you stopped learning and your just a bratt with conspiracy theories. If you cant spray without getting a hard orange-peel you don't know how to paint because your application methods are ignorant, 14yrs, lmao at you.
@@dorosco74 So what's the "right" way to you? you can't even differentiate your and you're. you even misspelled your last name. yeah 14 years, along my Dad and uncles 40+ years in the trade. in the first five years I learned more than a lot of you so-called "Pros" will learn in a lifetime. You dont understand paint as much as you think you do buddy. We have work every single day non stop. and I guarantee my work. if I was doing something wrong, I'd be out of work by now.
my last name is spelled correctly yours is not I have been painting longer than your daddies and pathetic uncles so i laugh at you them and your whole family for teaching you to paint the wrong way, you're,lol, Pathetic.
Just a little tip you shouldn't use the same sprayer if you use oilbase paints and then waterborne paints . It can screw your sprayer up eventually. It's like having a kettle and using emulsion in it then once it dries you use an oilbase gloss , the gloss eats into the emulsion and makes it peel, the same thing will happen to your sprayer no later how clean you think you cleaned it out. You need one sprayer for oil and one sprayer for waterborne paints
Well... thats just not true. I've been painting for 43 years and spraying from day one. Clean the pump and spray whatever you want. No problems at all. This is 43 years of spraying experience talking here. I'll say it again. Clean the pump and spary whatever you want. It will not hurt the pump. It will not cause problems. I spray lacquer, oil, water and even epoxy through all of my equiptment. As long as you clean thoroughly there will be NO problems. Some of my pumps are old. VERY OLD. Some of them are over 30 years old as well as my hoses. Clean the pump. Spray whatever you want. No problems. Just my two cents. BTW... Keep up the excellent the good work Richard. I sure do enjoy your videos. Bob.
@Matt Mayes I'd say yes to those hoses but that wouldn't be true. Hoses drag around on concrete and other surfaces and they wear out. I have so many hoses I don't really know how old each of them are but I'm confident that most are only as old as maybe 7 or 8 years.
@Klaa2 No ultrasonic cleaning. No bucket of water at the ready just run water, or solvent, through until clean water or solvent is all you see when finished. Clean filters and I try to always keep antifreeze in the lines when not in use.
I switch from oil to latex all the time with no problems just make sure to clean 1st and then if switching from water oil just run some mineral spirits in the line after I've cleaned the water based paint out and then you can switch to oil. It goes both ways.
There are many factors that play a role on the final outcome of your sprayed finish for instance humidity, heat, thinning of the material, and thickness of material applied. I would recommend on 75 % of the time or depending on viscosity of material thinning at least 4 to 1 ratio or 3 to 1 (paint-thinning material). Also you can spray what I call a "mist" spray first, let it dry for a bit and it allows for thicker coat to be sprayed with less risk of runs. Also if using oil based paint u can thin with laquer thinner it acts as a thinner and dryer at the same time not my preferred method because of the extra expense but know fellow colleagues that learned this way and love this trick. Finally, pressure should be half ways or 3/4 The full throttle of these small guns.
i would say your tip is a bit small. To get a really nice finish I like to put on a a heavy but even coat. BTW when shooting doors I like to turn the tip and housing so that the gun can be held straight up and down.
I would shoot 312 314 on those doors. Just a touch more paint with that hand speed might be the difference. That Pro Classic should lay out better. Perhaps your orange peal was the result of not enough paint. At any rate, love your videos and keep experimenting. Side note: see if the wife lets you pick up a second sprayer. One for oil, one for water base.
From a home builders perspective, I've never seen a better finish than using an HVLP to spray, since you're mostly doing trim and doors, why not try one of those. It's a lot less over spray when working in finished homes too. Just a thought since you want the best finish possible. My painter used one on my personal home and Ive never seen Masonite doors look like glass any other way!!
Thanks. I appreciate the comment coming from a builder. I went with airless because I love the gun. I think I can get what I am going for with this sprayer but it will take a lot of practice.
I know what your doing wrong you need to stop for a BEER or 2 before coats then the last coat looks amassing that coming for an Ozzy down under and the jobs not done right if there's no blowy stuck in your paint finish it adds character :) keep them coming.
![Graco Ultramax 12 months on.. [video #312]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cRijz8BdEfk/mqdefault.jpg)
I forgot to mention I am using a 310 tip @ 600 PSI. While we did get the Emerald Urethane to layout very smooth, I know it can still be better. The ProClassic Hybrid did decent, I could've sprayed it slower and changed the outcome. It did eventually level out a little bit better. I am still waiting on the outcome of the oil.
Emerald Urethane for the WIN! It's expensive but well worth it. Combine it with HVLP and it does really well. We usually put a little bit of water with the urethane to thin it down. That may not be necessary with your sprayer but needed with HVLP. If you try and use paint thinner with the the urethane, the thinner will sit on top and not mix in, fyi. Great video man
Finish Carpentry TV I’d bump up the pressure a bit, 600 psi is crazy low. You can see your pump fluctuate tons on the second door, and too much fingering on the third door. But definitely a decent little unit!
Don Thomson thanks everyone for all the advice. It really is a lot harder than people think. Especially since every paint is different.
You spent a $1000 on a sprayer. My wife would kill me if I did that. Hahaha
Jared Parker thanks for giving reason #1,365 to NOT get married.
I am just a diy guy looking to upgrade my home. I have learned so much by watching your videos! From the bottom of my heart, Thank you! Your a great teacher and a extremely talented craftsman!!!
Been using Emerald urethane for some time now. Best product I know for wood finish.
Try laying the doors. It will let the paint level and diminish orange peel effect.
This will also let you put more product on without runs.
Most importantly, sand the primer and between finish coats with 220 grit.
Been painting for 10 years now, found this to give the smoothest finish.
Agreed. When I used Emerald Urethane 2 years ago, laying the cabinet doors down and applying a nice thick coat worked really well for self leveling. Dries really really slow tho. Vertical surfaces did still have just the faintest orange peel texture. You had to have light and viewing angle just to see it. The threshold for moving from orange peel to dripping while painting vertical surfaces is tricky. You must spray enough of a coat to eliminate the orange peel texture, but not too much to where the paint will run on the vertical surface. This is why you should lay things flat when you are able.
Well Richard, you've received quite alot of replies. Most of them are well intentioned but, for the most part, are just that. My advise to you, if you;re even interested, is to continue experimenting. I have been a custom painter for 43 years. I have worked most of that time as a high end painter in places like Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Cheviot Hills, etc... you probably wont acheive the results you're looking for without experience and the only way to get experience is to keep at it. Those of us with years of experience usually approach each project without even thinking about what we are doing. For example, I'm not even sure what presure setting I use for each product I spray. I have put up thousands of gallons of lacquer, oil, acrylic and a fair amount of the new water based lacquers. It is usually so routine that I just set it up by the way it feels. The old saying "Practice makes perfect" still applies. I sure like your videos. I hope you're around for years to come sharing your talents with us. Keep up the good work Richard. Bob.
Why do painters always brag/lie about their experience? Have not noticed this in any other profession.
@@jerkster9114 you havent met a taper
@@mam241 you haven't met a carpenter.
Jerkster every tradesman out there does that. Trust me, I’ve been on job sites for 85 years.
Jerkster being that it’s not an easy life doing this messy work all day long. When a painter does get recognized for some nice faux finish work
Or doing a nice antique finish on a set of custom cabinets and sprayed. It’s not boasting, just appreciating a job well done.
After 45 yrs as a painting contractor, I have met a lot of proud boasting cabinet makers. I never stop learning, I have spent many hours looking at auto body painting, especially prep. These guys deserve a lot of praise for what they can pull off. I’ve sprayed some cars ,and it’s not an easy trade.
Everyone who picks up a paintbrush isn’t a real painter, just as a guy who pounds a nail with a hammer isn’t a real carpenter.
I don’t like boasting about my work, I just get annoyed by these guys on RUclips that think their way is just so perfect as to
Profess it the way they do. Imagine how they might think after painting high end work for 45 yrs compared to the slop they’re turning out
After just a few yrs in the business painting like mommy homeowner can do just like them.
If you spray the edges first you will paint over the overspray in the field where the finish counts.
I think that a lot of people have already addressed the pressure. Also it is a good idea to keep your gun to one base. Also when using water based finishes stay away from the oil based tack cloths. We only run water based finishes in my shop and we use micro fiber cloths,works great. We run the same rig as well.
I have used the emerald for a couple of years now and i love the finished look. Satin or semi-gloss, either one looks good. I leave it to the customer preference. One thing i do is hit the sides first to avoid overspray on the front part of the door which is the money shot. Great job. I am a huge fan and i have watched all your videos.
I had occasion to do some spraying of doors, I used a waterbase paint and I added Floetrol to the point and I got a much better finish. I think we get orange peel because the paint is drying while being sprayed and so goes on "chunky." The Floetrol may be the answer to your issue. Best regards.
Hey Richard
Couple things:
310 ok (especially for shellac) 410/12 for top coat.
1200 minimum for pressure with graco fflp imo
Keep distance about 12" and slow it down. (Hit close on edges only)
Also mixing shellac/thinner and water will mess up ur lines long term. A litlle solvent stays trapped and when u spray ur waterbased paints you may begin to see pinholes in ur top coat from thinner trying to escape. Best to keep ur topcoat sprayer dedicated to waterbased.
Thx for all ur help with the carpentry you've tought me alot👊
Robert Adam thank you! Makes sense to me, I will try it out!
Exactly what i was thinkin!!
Great comment. Thanks for sharing
Incredibly impressive how you spent the day just honing your craft and teaching yourself and asking for feedback you were just like ..blow my mind...Involves so much work having to clean that sprayer every time between coats and then you’re gonna repeat it to make sure you got everything the way you need to
Bro. Your so flipping humble it's unreal. I wish I was like that when I started.
Love the Emerald Urethane. We use it on cabinetry all the time
I'm not a painter by any means, however, nice touch with the drone footage! To me your video production skills are improving nicely. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder.
I did get a kick out of felling for texture with the glove, reminds of something I would do!
Excellent demo! A lot of your personal time dedicated to mastering your new sprayer. RESPECT! 👊
But won't he have a new skill to make more money? Not sure of many professions where you strictly learn on the job and not with your offtime.
On my last build I used the green fflp tip with Benjamin Moore Advance. It has it's own primer as well. Be careful not to get too close or it hangs and sags. Levels great but it's the slowest drying waterborne alkyd out there.
I've got a few tips:
1. First scuff with 400 grit and wipe with tack cloth followed by a wipe down with solvent based deglosser.
2. I like cover stain as a bond coat, to me it seems like it sands better.
3. Lay the doors down on some horses to spray, this helps the paint lay down vs hanging.
4. IMO Properly prepared Oil based alkyd with the right amounts of penetrol and thinner will always provide a nicer finish than any hybrids, even with extenders in them.
5. I usually hit my doors with one light flash coat followed by a nice heavier wet coat
Dude, I love your videos. It's nice to see somebody who cares about what they do. I do a lot of finishing and furniture repair and restoration on the side. Finishing is how I lost all my hair as a matter of fact. You can only pull so much out until it's gone. I use a Fuji 4 stage turbine HVLP. It was also around six hundred bucks. You, being a trim man know that the devil's in the details. I pretty much do things the way you do other than I normally lay my doors down flat on a set of horses I have made just for that. It seems I worry less about runs that way. And your finish also starts to lay out faster. We do more stains and clear finishes than we do paint grade but, we always sand between every coat. So it seems to me you're doing all right and the next thing you'll have to figure out is how to get a production line going. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
Man that’s smooth I don’t think I have to sand it
Takes off glove: yea I have to sand it 😂😂
I know nothing about painting , but i know if it was me , i would paint the edges first then the main panel , it seems to me as if doing the edges last you will compromise the finish on the main panel . , but it's just an opinion .
Jim Shaw, you're actually right man. Spraying the edges last will leave a build up of paint on the face. Which is why he got the textured look. Luckily the first two products are very forgiving and will lay down properly.
Indeed, spraying edges last will leave thin haze over the main panel which will dry too fast no time for paint to "get" smooth.
same here
Definitely spray edges first. When you do it last you catch overspray and dust on the front
Alejandro Soli
I'm a union painter here in New Jersey and I gotta say your work is a pleasure to watch. You are very meticulous with a lot of attention to detail. Very refreshing since production is more of the norm these days as opposed to quality.
My business is based on details. Customers really enjoy value for their hard earned money spent. The slap it together and let it ride sucks at best. All I know my clients refer me to there friends without me asking. The proof is always in the pudding.
Your right when you were moving slower the first coat definitely improved. If you go back and look when you did the primer you see that the coverage wasn't as good as when you slowed down for the Emerald Urethane. I usually spray stays and polyurethane, but I go in knowing that I am going to do 3 or 4 coats of each with a light sanding between coats and I really take my time for the last stain coat and the last poly coat. Good video.
just to add 2c i use a diff technique to wipe with the tack cloth. Long strokes same direction using a diff part every time i wrap the cloth in soft foam and wipe. Don`t know your system but i have to change nozzles for each type. High heat will mess up your finish get a thermo/hygrometer and keep records. Dont want to sound i know it all (not by far). Thanks a lot for sharing man always pick up somthing. :D peter
It’s all about Tip, Pressure, Distance, Technique and speed. Select the tip for the job, for this work you need the FFLP tip from Graco, fine finish tips all end in an even number 08, 10, 12, 14 etc, this is the size of the tip in thousands of an inch, the first number 2, 3, 4, 5 etc ate the angle in degrees, 20 degrees, 30 degrees etc. If you want to know what size fan that should give you, then double that first number and that should be your fan width in inches, if it’s wider than that your too far away, narrower is too close (distance). Setting your pressure just takes a sharp eye, after priming the pump turn the pressure to approx 1/3rd of its pressure, take the gun with tip and guard attached, remove the safety for the trigger and spray a stripe on some card or other waste flat item, if you can see stripes in the paint pattern then increase the pressure until they disappear , that’s your set pressure. If the pressure is too high you will create lots of overspray and vastly increase your chance of getting creators or pitting in the finish.
Technique, even stripes are essential, after you lay down the first stripe, use the edge of that stripe as a guide for where the centre of the next stripe begins so you have a 50-50 overlap (gives depth and coverage of the paint), then when you do the edges, you still work with a wet edge all round.
If you watch the way the paint lays down from the gun you will see how it builds and flows out, keep your speed so you get a nice even coat but not so much as to create runs. If the coating is going on too thick then speed up a little if too thin then slow down but if you are having to move too fast to be comfortable then come down a size on your tip (if using a “412” then come down to a 410 or 408).
been using a graco 390 for few years. defiantly would recommend for someone getting into airless spraying
I use the Emerald Urethane almost exclusively now and it sprays on beautifully. Stick with that and you will be very happy.
Floetrol. For the latex, especially in that heat, I found that almost all paints lay out with orange peel and then level out, un less they dry too fast
absolutely use an extender, especially in the heat
Floetrol is some awesome stuff. I use it a lot when I'm brushing trim also. Lays out nice and flat
Total agreement with Steve! Floetrol with waterborne, penetrol with oil base.
I agree with you.
I’m not an expert but I’m a finish carpenter to is trying to improve my ability to stain and spray my work. One thing I see you doing that I did and when I changed it it really helped was using a wider fan. I would you a 510 for those. I found it easier to get a good consistent overlap which made the finish layout smoother.
Hope that helps. I also use a graco contractor II gun which I really like.
Hey I have painted for 35 years and think you’re doing an excellent job. Only one coat of primer is needed. It is not a topcoat or a color coat it is merely primer, something for the paint to hang on to. On another note you do not sand those doors to smooth them out but rather to give them tooth as they say in the painting business.
Like I said before I don't paint I watch your videos because your a great Craftsmen and have much respect for you your an honest dude operator error how many people would actually say that great video keep up the pride in your work
Very instructive videos, with a lot of patience and understanding of the work your doing, keep up the good work little brother, I like your style.
Would like to see a video on cleaning steps needed for your sprayer.
Second that.
Lol 😅😆 clean that shit
@@alexandergonsales9514 Then show us!
There is plenty of other videos on RUclips on how to clean your sprayer. Super simple and easy.
Heat /Temp/Humidity/Product used. Then get in your groove. I have been finishing for over 40 years. One of the few master finish carpenters that still do that sort of thing. Oil Benjamin moore Impervo always gives me the best results. Looks like glass when it is put down the right way. I learned from ole timers years ago with oil and all other latex semi's. One Direction with the brush and feather once. Prime with BM oil as well. Sand lightly between coats. For latex the Benjamin Moore ADVANCE® Interior Paint great finish. Try it out fantastic. 1/8" finish roller 4" then feather with 3" purdy. I do doors like this as well. It gives it that ole time charm and classic finish instead of a sprayed perfect look. Best man hope it helps. You stuff looks great as usual.
I'd love to use Advance but read that it needs to dry 16 hours between coats. What material is the 1/8" finish roller?
@@vitex1231 Finish Roller small 4 inch. Sure Line used to make them. 16 hours at least. High Humiidty figure 5 days. It takes Latex 30 Days to cure. Oil one Week. Advance High Gloss. Interior Exterior
On bigger flatter panels like those. Use a larger first number. The 310 your using (3) being fan width which is actually 6 and (10) being the orifice size. A 10 is good for medium thickness paints. The thinner the paints the smaller the orifice size needed to atomized properly. But because your spraying wide flat panels use a 410 tip and up the pressure. You should over lap your fan patterns by aiming the middle of each pass at the edge of the pass before.
I like to use a FFLP tip with pro classic on trim. Also try bumping up the psi if it isn't laying out flat. The guy saying it's not meant to be sprayed is completely wrong.
I don’t typically comment, but I have always liked your videos. I own a cabinet shop and we use air assured airless. It’s expensive, but it comes out like glass. I found a used one with a gun less than 500. Food for thought. Good job.
You are good carpenter!
I painted for 25 years. Only get so good up to the point where your equipment can not do better. After a few years experience buy a quality sprayer like the kremlin with high end gun like excite 150. Then you will master the products as you choose and use them. Graco will only take you so far. Cheers
Pro industrial alkyd urethane from Sherwin gives you the best trim finish looks and feels like oil but with out the hassle.
I have been waiting for 35 years. We always separate our doors To another area after we spray them because of the Overspray dust flying in the air. It will land on your new finished door and make it rough. Thank you for your videos
35 years painting
Another thing to consider you are spraying in a garage with high humidity and no ventilation whatsoever, advance and proclassic are meant to be sprayed in an area with very low humidity, in a room at around 72 degrees proclassic if sprayed correctly should look like oil very smooth finish, but also your prep and spray method has alot to do with it as well
I use the pro classic alkyd urethane on cabinets. I use the the Sherwin Williams latex primer. Smaller tip. I'm no pro painter just went into Sherwin Williams one day talked with 3 of the guys there and have been using the same combo for about a year. Never an issue. Customer love it and it holds up to abuse well. The thing with paint is I hate it but seems like I end up doing it a lot. Our businesses are so much a like. Name of my company is Y Co Carpentry in St George UT.
Sorry Sherwin Williams Industrial pro alkyd urethane. Not pro classic
If you will look at the specs on the pro classic waterborne paint you would see they recommend using a .010 to .014 tip at 2000 psi for fine finish work. It's a good idea to read the application recommendations on the paint you are using for a better result. I use a 311 tip for that on cabinets.
New spray paint gun are always hard to get the perfect finish they are like a new guy needs I few days to learn how to do staff righ but good video thank you.
Emerald is one the best products for sure we use it on all our cabinets. I don't quite like that Graco sprayer the pressure varries to much. I prefer Titan 655 Graco 395 ultra. I adjust my pressure as needed with fflp 410 tip. Good video 👍
Richard, I like you have been looking for the ultimate smooth finish using a airless. Here is what I found works for me. Airless set at 1300psi Tip FFLP 310 or you could use a FFLP 308 which would give a little smoother finish. Paint PPG Breakthrough satin with 1 cap of floetrol added to each quart and mixed for 1 minute. Spraying technique looks good moving quicker helps. I also found that if you spray the piece horizontal and not vertical it lays down better and has no chance to sag or run on you. PPG Breakthrough dies in 15 minuets in heat of 105 degrees, watch out for blisters in the paint with those temps. Hope this helps.
Great advice! Thanks for taking the time to type it all out.
Best advice so far.
Michael Rose that floetrol is excellent stuff. Used on hand painted kitchen cupboards
Hi, this is a well done video. I am a professional painter from Canada so we don't have to deal with 107-degree temps :) I use may sprayers for quite a few jobs and although the Graco RAC X Fine Finish Low-Pressure tips allow for a finer finish with an airless it is almost impossible to get a super flat and smooth finish. Even at 600 psi, you will still get that orange peel finish that you referred to. I use my Graco hvlp unit for most trim and cabinet jobs. With less pressure, the paint will flatten better for you. I also us Benjamin Moore Advance, it is a waterborne alkyd, it is pretty well the only paint that I have found that flattens like an oil. (if you are committed to using the airless, play with the pressure and maybe be a little further from your work surface, it might help with the finished look) Hope that this gives you some ideas on how to improve that finish, also, as mentioned by a previous responder, experience and trial and error is the best teacher.
Did you add any paint retarder? Something like Floetrol? These additives help slow down the drying time of the paint and give it time to flow out smooth before drying. I sprayed all the trim and doors in my last home reno. I found the tip size plays a huge part in getting a glass like finish. You can find a tip that matches your natural speed. One other important part I learned is you can never vacuum the trim too much.
I have been trying different options lately painting built-ins...I use a fugi mini mite 5 in lieu of the airless. Have had some luck with ppg breakthrough, I would say 95% shop finish. I spray onsite mainly. Primer and sanding is key with that product. Breakthrough does best with thin coats...and it drys very fast and feels hard to the touch. I can get 3 coats in one day if necessary. If you like oil, I think you would like BM advanced. It lays down similar to oil and hides flaws better than breakthrough. But it takes forever to dry/cure. The time btw coats is its main downfall. Another thing I noticed...you can’t judge breakthrough or advanced while they are wet. They always look like crap wet, I have stressed myself out many times looking at wet paint between coats.
Add some Flotroel to your paint and it will lay down better and dry with a smoother finish.
Your probably going to think I am sounding like a know it all but I have been down the road you are going and I am constantly trying new stuff. I have tested all the sherwin williams stuff and if you are looking for that banging finish your going to have to get into the cabinet water base finishes such as the Kem Aqua, Saylerlack, Target, CIC, ML Campbell, or Melesi stuff. All of those companies have great products. For whatever reason the pro classic works best in the semi gloss. The satin leaves it somewhat with a grainy feel. Best of luck and I hope you find the combination you are looking for.
Oil all the way. On my oil base airless i use the fine mesh filters in the gun and pump filter for oil-base enamels along with the fine finish tips instead of the filters that come standard. Lightly Thin with naphtha to speed up drying and so that it hangs on instead of drips. Silky smooth finish. #graco #love
Try bear paint, the sprayer is like the auto body shop sprayer long slow movement from top to bottom or bottom to top one long spray with a little over spary so it dont dip on the edges. I use oil based paint for metal not wood material if you use oil based you need to add paint thinner to help the paint spray e-zer. I use a non latex type or semi gloss finish But it's the priming coat that makes the difference.
I think tack cloths are wax impregnated cheese cloth. Just found your channel and I'm enjoying it. I did a major kitchen reno when my son was 2. He's 23 now. Maybe I will finish the moldings one day....
If you use an extender it will increase drying time and give the paint time to level out. Using an extender instead of water doesn't compromise the integrity of the paint.
Thanks for your content, good job.
Nick the painter
pro classic oil base 411 tip turn pressure up a bit more. if tip is blown a little get a new one, if fan is to large go smaller tip that is. this is what worked for me in the past. titan 440 is what I used on wood works. like that graco you use. Never seen that gx19 before. hvlp sprayers work good on wood works, I am just not a fan of them they are more time consuming. good work
I knew a paint and body shop owner that could not get the finish he wanted with house painters, they all had orange peel!
So he brought in his corvett guy and he put a car finish on the cabinets by fiberglassing the doors and frames!
They were sanded in between coats and did a final wet sanding to get a slick finish!
I think he paid more for the finish of the cabinets than he did for the build! But he was happy!
Try a 312 tip and bump up the preasure your not getting enough paint on the doors. Theyres a happy medium with proclassic dont be scared to lay it on!
I haven't read through all of the comments, but I'm going to guess that because of the temps in the garage, the paint was drying way too fast. It didn't have enough to level out. You could try adding some Floetrol to the paint, and that will extend the dry time. You could also spray the doors out as they're laying horizontally. In that position, you can lay on the paint a little bit heavier, which will also slightly extend the dry time. The reason that the door you sprayed out with Pro Classic didn't feel as smooth as the Emerald doors, is because they might have gotten hit with the Emerald overspray. Good to hear that you enjoy the paint/staining part of the job as much as you like the carpentry. It shows in your work.
Oh, one last thing- a cabinet painter that I know claims that compressed air is the only way to make sure that you've got all of the sanding dust off of your material. Tack cloths are okay, but they don't get everything.
Hey man long time subscriber I’m a cabinetmaker in Alabama ,,I thought about this video and figured I would share my experience we use a graco airless as well sprayed SW emerald for years wanted to recommend a paint for you to try Milesi it’s a total game changer it’s also water base if you can find a dealer around you should definitely give it a shot!!
Also use the bin primer with it as well
I use a Greco 635tip @ 2800psi, contractor series gun with a 42 inch Titan spray Pole with a swivel. For the sprayer I use a Greco 7500. Fine finish filters in the gun and the sprayer. Running 2 150 foot lines. Two guys 1500 doors a day..
By the way I’ve never use tack clothes because they left some remaining wax on the surface .
If you using denatured alcohol wet a microfiber and clean it out that’s the best way to clean up a wood surface .
I sprayed lacquer finishes on my builds for many years in SoCal where it can be hot and dry. The way I found to get the best finish is to do a crisscross pattern. Spray all the edges first of course and then spray the flat part in one direction first and the the other (vertical and then horizontal if you will) being careful not to overdue it. A bit lighter pass than if you were just doing one pass. Hope that helps. Good videos :)
i've been painting for 10 years or something, and i used Emerald for the first time last year when it came out. I sprayed all my doors and brushed out all my trim, and both have a glass like smoothness to them. Its also supposed to be the hardest paint for trim out there so it should last a long time (we'll see about that). I did notice that Emerald Satin is a TRUE satin and has almost no shine, unlike some of the other trim paints satin which seem like semi gloss (like Ben Moore Advance). Thanks for doing the comparison!
Thanks for the comment. I too noticed that about the advance satin from BM. I still love that paint though.
You're doing it right, sanding between all coats and tacking. One suggestion is to spray the edges of the door first and you will avoid getting a fog or mist of paint on the face.
I have a couple airless units and an HVLP, so I have a little experience. Buy a 5 stage HVLP, a medium flow tip, and add some water to thin your paint a little. It'll give you a smoother finish, less over-spray, faster cleanup, and in general is easier to use. The only con is you can only hold a limited amount of paint, if you don't have a pressure pot. Even still, a gravity feed gun (2/3 quart) will give you enough paint to spray around 100 SF. Good luck
Another great video, I would have to agree to turning the pressure up a little, also use Ben Moore cabinet coat,very low odor and beautiful finish. Just finished painting 47 cabinets for a retail store with it could not be happier
Dial up the pressure a bit , I usually spray trim between 1900 - 3000 psi depending on the product I'm using ... hope this helps
great video I like the sprayer to, Emerald and pro ind. are the same paint the emerald covers better try thinning the emerald with water i like how your are not afraid to ask for suggestions on what you could improve on, that shows some one who cares and with that attitude you will go far , I can teach you to do a task but I can't teach you to CARE
Hello, I`m from Spain , I`ve had tried a lot to have a good finishing with different sprayers and materials. Basicly the secret is to get the right pressure, right thinning and the right hand speed movement. HVLP is great but slowly , airmix is the better sprayer. Thanks for your videos
Custom home painter in Canada. We use Kem Aqua plus over SW multipurpose oil based primer. You have to do 2 light coats or it will run and sag, probably twice the speed you just did. SW multipurpose we thin about 20 % with toluene to be able to spray out of a. 012 tip.
We sand the first coat of finish, the increased surface area of the "rough" primer helps with the bond between oil and water based coatings. Oil base sands to a glass finish and its like trying to get paint to stick to glass if you sand your primer smooth. Oil base stops the grain raise of mdf and will probably give you the smoothest results
I used to swear by ppg breakthrough. They are having durability concerns on cabinets and we switch to Kem Aqua from Sw. Slightly longer dry and tack off times but half the price. Also never try ppg aquacron, it can't be sprayed with a low pressure tip at anything less than 3300
I just did some doors with Kem Aqua and the surfacer with an HVLP. OMG, this stuff is like glass. It dries hard, and FAST.
While painting has a bit of wizardry to it, im fairly certain painting @ 105f is outside the working paramaters of spraying that paint.
I think you might be flashing off too fast, leading to the roughness because the paint cannot flatten out before drying in that heat.
Try some Benjamin Moore Advanced. I recently laid some of it down on a pair of shaker style cabinet doors (popular frames & MDF panels) and I was very impressed. Great video!
Did you use a sprayer with it?
I don't know about oil but if your using water based products and end up with a textured appearance try using Latex X-Tender. It's a must for hvlp and airless, It also buys you some time when painting in High heat.
Emerald urethane over primer is your go to. It self levels wonderfully if you put it on wet enough. It looks like your pressure could have been a bit lower. 😊. Nice job overall and thank you.
Given that you spray mostly trim and require a fine finish. Did you consider an HVLP turbine unit like a Fuji? Great for cabinets and furniture.
Awesome job. We have three exterior doors to paint on our house 3 on the garage, two bathroom doors and three sets of closet doors to paint. We got a Graco sprayer, had decided to use BIN shellac. Emerald was what I was going to use. I really, really thank you for this video. I feel more confident now.
Now as for the paint sprayer, I have found one of the smaller hand held units, airless sprayer's with the screw on canister's works really well on trim from my past experience. Needless to say, the instructional videos from Graco talk about taking slow, passes on whatever it is you are painting. As well as, overlapping the passes, as you were doing in this video. As for the tip, I have a 313 that I use most of the time, and a 515 that I only use when I am covering a larger area! Although, I believe the 4-6 inch fan size is probably as wide as you would ever want to go. Plus everyone I ever learned from when I was younger always sprayed from left to right. Not saying they were right, that is just how they did it. However, they were some pretty good painters, and even now, are still back up with work.
When spraying doors or wider pieces, even cabinet doors, I like a tip with a wider fan, like a 517, just seems as though I get a better finish, I use a Graco 390 tall boy. Just a suggestion
BTW I do a lot of trim carpentry and spraying also, love watching your productions, 2 thumbs up, and I used your technique for building recessed wainscoting, keep em coming 👍👍
I know I am way late on this, but, you can use ammonia to clean BIN out of your sprayer. It smells like death but is way cheaper than denatured alcohol
If you can use warm water to wash your rig out then use warm water . If your using oilbase paints in your machine then use mineral spirit. What ever type of material you use to use the correct cleaner through your machine. It will tell you on the paint can what cleaner to use. I still wouldn't mix spraying waterborne then oilbase with the same rig
First of all I would just like to say that I watch your videos and enjoy not only the way you do them but also the quality and the craftsmanship of your work. For a smoother finish I would try thinning down your paint a little and maybe using a small amount of Floetrol in it. I have found that you seldom get a good finish with paint straight out of the can. Second you may try a quick tack coat then a full coat after that. This will give the paint something to grab on to and minimize the chances of the water based paint to run. That is something I have done in the past and it works well on slick surfaces with water based paints. Thanks again for all your videos.
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Floetrol or spray early morning or evenings when it's cooler. Lay doors flat when possible.
Maybe the temperature was affecting the finish a bit, causing the surface layer to tack up in its original sprayed pattern instead of laying down evenly. I’m not a professional by any means but I’m thinking this may be similar to how texture dries differently on mud rather than on the paper of the drywall panel
The speed you move you hand with depend on your personal satisfaction of the coverage of the surface you spray. That's my opinion after 10 years of spraying.
You might be interested to try cross spraying. Do your primer up and down , first coat left to right and final coat up and down again. It gives a better coverage... I think.
3 thin coats for latex products with extender, small tip.
A light tac coat for oils let tac coat get sticky to the touch. Holds final coat from running.
White lacquer undercoat
if you can stand the smell and fumes
Use solid based Laquers. They are much finer and more durable and takes seconds to dry and let's you do more production faster
Pro Industrial Water Based Alkyd Urethane you can get it a Sherwin- Williams it's great for that stuff, like other people where saying edges first, tip up, work smooth, think of everything BEFORE you spray, and watch you're over lap 30 to 50 percent depending on tip size (second number)
Thànkyou man.I learning how to spray and it helps watching you videos
I just got the graco 395 ultra, and love it. I'm curious about the hopper accessory. Looks handy for some projects
I know what your issue is.
1.Use a larger tip ( like a 312 FF)
Bigger fan and more material.
2. Turn that spray nozzle vertical.
This way your fan passes are even every time.
That texture is considered orange peel, the result of not applying enough paint.
There is a fine line between success and disaster when spraying.
Too little paint= orange peel finish
Too much paint= drips
You have to be right inbetween!
Nice to be connected, I went to my local restore, also to buy a door, and was told no haggling was allowed at restore when I offered to pay less.
Ive been spraying for about 14 years. temperature doesnt affect the finish but the humidity level does. dryer atmospheres will give the paint a rough finish with light coats.
from what I saw you had your pressure too low and the paint looked pretty thick.
It's ok to dilute paint with clean water to help it move easier through the tip. you also want to use a tip that sprays a wider fan to minimize lines or streaks. I like to use a 411 or 413 tip for doors but sometimes I use 511 or 513. and keep a distance of about 12 to 14 inches away. On a Graco 595 Airless. We always use Benjamin Moore products and never had a single issue.
hope that helps, cheers from Washington State
Don't listen to Ceasar never thin out paints, the chemists whom make paint have built in tolerance for thinning but do not recommend it, if you need to thin out paint your pump is worn down or you are spraying with a blown tip.
@@dorosco74 Ok. I only paint for a living. I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing. you can go and do what manufacturers tell you to do. in the end they just want you to buy more paint because no matter how many coats you apply, it'll always look like crap with all the orange peel you'll leave with your thick paint.
14 YRS, and you are still learning how to paint the right way? Your reply tells me you stopped learning and your just a bratt with conspiracy theories. If you cant spray without getting a hard orange-peel you don't know how to paint because your application methods are ignorant, 14yrs, lmao at you.
@@dorosco74 So what's the "right" way to you? you can't even differentiate your and you're. you even misspelled your last name. yeah 14 years, along my Dad and uncles 40+ years in the trade. in the first five years I learned more than a lot of you so-called "Pros" will learn in a lifetime.
You dont understand paint as much as you think you do buddy. We have work every single day non stop. and I guarantee my work. if I was doing something wrong, I'd be out of work by now.
my last name is spelled correctly yours is not I have been painting longer than your daddies and pathetic uncles so i laugh at you them and your whole family for teaching you to paint the wrong way, you're,lol, Pathetic.
Just a little tip you shouldn't use the same sprayer if you use oilbase paints and then waterborne paints . It can screw your sprayer up eventually. It's like having a kettle and using emulsion in it then once it dries you use an oilbase gloss , the gloss eats into the emulsion and makes it peel, the same thing will happen to your sprayer no later how clean you think you cleaned it out. You need one sprayer for oil and one sprayer for waterborne paints
cam decorations I thought about that, I wonder how long it would take to damage it. Planning to be using water from here on out though. Thank you.
Well... thats just not true. I've been painting for 43 years and spraying from day one. Clean the pump and spray whatever you want. No problems at all. This is 43 years of spraying experience talking here. I'll say it again. Clean the pump and spary whatever you want. It will not hurt the pump. It will not cause problems. I spray lacquer, oil, water and even epoxy through all of my equiptment. As long as you clean thoroughly there will be NO problems. Some of my pumps are old. VERY OLD. Some of them are over 30 years old as well as my hoses. Clean the pump. Spray whatever you want. No problems. Just my two cents. BTW... Keep up the excellent the good work Richard. I sure do enjoy your videos. Bob.
@Matt Mayes I'd say yes to those hoses but that wouldn't be true. Hoses drag around on concrete and other surfaces and they wear out. I have so many hoses I don't really know how old each of them are but I'm confident that most are only as old as maybe 7 or 8 years.
@Klaa2 No ultrasonic cleaning. No bucket of water at the ready just run water, or solvent, through until clean water or solvent is all you see when finished. Clean filters and I try to always keep antifreeze in the lines when not in use.
I switch from oil to latex all the time with no problems just make sure to clean 1st and then if switching from water oil just run some mineral spirits in the line after I've cleaned the water based paint out and then you can switch to oil. It goes both ways.
You can cut the BIN primer with denature alcohol it will make it dry faster and it lays that much smoother
There are many factors that play a role on the final outcome of your sprayed finish for instance humidity, heat, thinning of the material, and thickness of material applied. I would recommend on 75 % of the time or depending on viscosity of material thinning at least 4 to 1 ratio or 3 to 1 (paint-thinning material). Also you can spray what I call a "mist" spray first, let it dry for a bit and it allows for thicker coat to be sprayed with less risk of runs. Also if using oil based paint u can thin with laquer thinner it acts as a thinner and dryer at the same time not my preferred method because of the extra expense but know fellow colleagues that learned this way and love this trick. Finally, pressure should be half ways or 3/4 The full throttle of these small guns.
i would say your tip is a bit small. To get a really nice finish I like to put on a a heavy but even coat. BTW when shooting doors I like to turn the tip and housing so that the gun can be held straight up and down.
I would shoot 312 314 on those doors. Just a touch more paint with that hand speed might be the difference. That Pro Classic should lay out better. Perhaps your orange peal was the result of not enough paint. At any rate, love your videos and keep experimenting. Side note: see if the wife lets you pick up a second sprayer. One for oil, one for water base.
9:47 haha this is why I keep watching :) always get a good laugh 😛 no but you do quality work. We need more craftsman like you in Texas
From a home builders perspective, I've never seen a better finish than using an HVLP to spray, since you're mostly doing trim and doors, why not try one of those. It's a lot less over spray when working in finished homes too. Just a thought since you want the best finish possible. My painter used one on my personal home and Ive never seen Masonite doors look like glass any other way!!
Thanks. I appreciate the comment coming from a builder. I went with airless because I love the gun. I think I can get what I am going for with this sprayer but it will take a lot of practice.
Use the hand held spray guns on the other side to compare the difference in finishes.
I know what your doing wrong you need to stop for a BEER or 2 before coats then the last coat looks amassing that coming for an Ozzy down under and the jobs not done right if there's no blowy stuck in your paint finish it adds character :) keep them coming.