The Quirky Kywoo3D Tycoon Max - 3D Printer Review
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- The Tycoon Max from new 3D Printer company Kywoo3D is refreshingly different in design, but does it have what it takes to compete?
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There's been some great comments and discussion around this printer, wanted to share my thoughts.
Reviewing printers like this is pretty difficult, because although my terms state "reviewed as received" it's clear that Kywoo3D has done countless upgrades (at least 3 FW revisions) since I began my assessment. If I went back to the drawing board each time a major change happened, well... the video would never be done and it's a big time waste.
You guys have a lot of good suggestions though, such as beefier rods vs rollers, I'm just amused that the entire machine is made of V slot instead of T slot but doesn't use it for the intended function.
The fullsize SD slot at the front never worked for gcode for me, not sure why but just tried again to sanity check.
With the cura profiles being subparr, it's possible that the loose bed was influencing the quality and that, plus the poor overhang quality, lead me to the prusaslicer profile. Chasing many variables at once can do that haha.
RUclips gives zero ability to annotate or edit vids, and I have to move to other vids but will tinker with the max in the mean time and report back. I do mean it when I wish this company the best and it's cool to see a small passionate community around them.
Angus
"they are a new company that deserves constructive feedback"
that right there is the good shit.
Angus, this is great, and offering them feedback is wonderful. I really think they are going to take this to heart.
Joel, he never can just call something good. I think he's a hack.
@@jstro-hobbytech is his feedback wrong though?
@@catexis not usually. He's a very smart man, I'll give credit where credit is due. If you were researching your first machine and went by his printer reviews though you would never own one unless it's a Prousha milked from the loins of (the man who claims to be an actual, physical printer) Josef himself and can complete absurd torture tests that most sub 1000cad will not pass for the next ten years as 3d printing is still very far from massive adoption because the barrier to entry. Be it price or the technical knowledge to upkeep or improve a printer. 3d printing is still very much an emerging technology like when home computing was in its infancy. How many normal, non-maker or 3d printer needing professionals can go buy one and not need help to do something as mundane as wiggle a piece of paper and turn a screw at the same time. I apologize for calling him a hack. He's very smart and helped further my aforementioned points to a noteworthy degree as far as being a pundit for companies needing to do better (as he truthfully states) but too much granularity can be perceived as negative to some while informative to others who are in the know. If you read this Angus I am very sorry for what I said but I raise some valid criticisms. A troll I am not and I feel like an idiot for being one at that moment. Thank you for calling me out sir, honestly..
Reviews like this really seem to build up genuine goodwill for both the company and the reviewer. Well done, and thank you for putting in the work!
Excellently done Angus, thorough and accurate. I've had one for a couple weeks now and agree on all points, except the "V" wheels. I upgraded my Y-axis to 12mm rod and the heat bed to the flex plate system they have available as an add-on. It's been as reliable as my Prusa MK3's and TAZ6, which for the price is excellent.
12mm rods or even linear rails would be a great improvement for Y for sure. Nice!
2:14 that Z axis lead screw wobble though :-S
Yeah that's not great.
Thanks for the video - I believe Kywoo is actively trying to make the printer better and have since have been creating additional upgrades such as the flex plate, linear rails for the Y axis, better heated bed, and now I think they are working on a speed kit for it. So it is good to see them working on it but all of that comes at a cost instead of being like that straight out of the box. Thanks again for another great video
I was an original owner of the MAX from the KS. As always Angus doing a great job of reviewing. I wanted to say that the community pointed out all these same issues about 6 months ago and the company has been great at trying to address these issues. I'm sure the future iterations will improve. I will say I have never seen that bed issue that was a new one on me I have the max and I never had give on the bed.
The kywoo really brings out the pineapples.
My first printed is the Max. You did hit on everything I noticed. During filament load, I can’t remember where exactly, but there is a menu item to turn off the motors. I do that and load the filament manually. I do like the metal covers however the left one (black side) makes a nice amplifier for noises. I want to print the side covers to try and lessen that.
The Max has a 25 point mesh for the bed leveling. The second latest firmware went to 5x5. The newer firmware changes the display. I haven’t switched yet as I was still trying to figure out what was wrong.
Yesterday I printed the individual test pieces from your castle. The the clearance card and draw bridge printed perfectly. The tower failed at the 1.5. Last step I believe.
A good thing about the non silent Z axis driver is I can tell when it’s done auto leveling for the other room.
As always great vid. I want more tests with the kywoo but I am biased. 😁
Yeah, tolerances on mine are on-point as well. I think Angus didn't do eSteps and flow calibrations + his retractions are not tuned. All that, will affect the tolerances.
@@learnmakerepeat7140 I mean, should you need to do esteps on a new printer? I generally review "as received" as per the terms but it sounds like there's a lot of improvements possible.
@@MakersMuse I agree, and long back Kywoo actually told me that they don't want the users doing eSteps, and that's why they didn't have steps per mm option shown in menu. But, I'm just a creature of habit. Mine were off slightly.
However, flow rate and retractions tuning, are essentially what will lead to better tolerances for printed parts, as I'm sure you already know this, mate.
I agree with both of you. This was my first printer and therefore had a steep learning curve. Its a good printer but might not be optimal for a first printer. With that being said, I am still happy with it.
That haircut looks great. That’s the only reason the thumbnail caught my eye.
Nice work Angus. A lot went into making this video and it was awesome that you went back and tried stuff again! Mine has not been the same since my live stream. I believe the firmware went backwards and I'm having a hard time getting the current firmware, with the screen firmware as well. I'm going to reach out to them one more time. Keep up the great work and I'm hoping this small company makes great changes and puts out some great printers!
Definitely keep me in the loop!
I got my Kywoo Tycoon Max last month and it Was my first contact with 3D printing at all.
I actually don't know why I decided to buy especially this printer and not one of the cheaper or more common machines for beginners.
After assembling it I was quite impressed of the printing results. The leveling was really good and I didn't touch the Z offset setting at all.
I bought it to print some maschine parts for my bachelor thesis. Everything worked perfectly so far. I print every day different things and besides a clocked nozzle not a single issue occurred.
Kywoo fixed some of the problems you got with your printer in the newer versions. The version I bought got a better UI and no bed problems.
I don't have the comparison to other printers but I'm really happy with this product.😊
Greetings from German 🇩🇪
Danke für das Feedback, stehe vor einer Kaufentscheidung und es hilft sehr.
I've been printing on one for a few months. Mine runs better than the one in video but does share some issues. Solid review
Hi Angus. First off I always use the Standard SD slot instead of he micro. Never had any problem. Also my bed is tight. I'm getting some really beautiful prints from my Max. I notice your touch screen is a bit different from mine though and I just got my Max a few weeks ago direct from China so it's the latest version. I haven't had any problems with the direct drive but I do agree about the run-out sensor being too close to the extruder. thanks for our video though.
They've been rolling out updates with each batch so good to hear it's led to some quality improvements.
Totally unrelated, but in all these years of 3D printing, if there's one thing i've learnt, it's that the barer the machine is, the better it is. All these housings, they only serve to complicate things.
These "prettied" up machines, the difficulties that come with such a design, that's a pretty big negative in my book.
Not, to be confused with fully encompassing enclosures. That's another thing entirely.
This is why, i consider Prusa's revised design, to still be, the peak of consumer ready, 3D printers. It's clean, it's accessible, it's ready to take up all the work loads you'd send at it.
Once you enclose a machine, you signal that you want to reach into a completely different realm of 3D printers (or even fine precision machinery) and therefore, your componentry, level of precision, and quality, must also step up.
housing adds stability, even though you'd think the frame would be sufficient
Wicked shirt dude! Just wanted to give a shout out and say thanks for all the video's you've made. You helped inspire me to make youtube videos. I always appreciate what seems to be a very genuine and honest opinion. Keep goin!
If the glass surface is the same as the ender 3 v2's 'carbondrum' alcohol is apparently the worst way to clean it, dish soap and some warm water has served me just fine and also seems to be what everyone else recommends, anything stronger starts to break the coating down.
I just use a clean rag with water, no soap or anything, and if that doesn't work, then I'll use vodka for that little bit of alcohol.
I clean always with 99IPA and never had an issue with those kind of beds.
This channel is getting shared with my CIT Teachers.
👍
Never been this early to a Makers Muse video! Love the new haircut Angus and the pineapple shirt lol
The yellow residue found is the glue that holds the transportation protective pealing cover you removed in the video, from the ultrabase glass bed.
As usually awesome review thank you a lot.
looks a bit like the lulzbot designs. I would absolutely consider buying if it could print as well as my Taz 6 and have the wonderful modern additions 3d printers these days have. Thanks for the review! I will be watching this company closely for their next model.
I've been doing a lot of testing with this myself and have found that higher temperatures help quite a bit with the adhesion issues you described. I have started running my printer at 215 degrees as opposed to the recommended 200 and it's been working significantly better for my prints
Upon further testing for most prints 205 is more than enough for most prints
They definitely needed this video.
great job staying positive with this machine, while i was literally groaning about the design
I really enjoy seeing smaller company reviews like this and often end up buying the stranger more unique printers but having said that I can't wait to see your take on the new Prusa XL Angus? when you get a chance to go hands on
Prusa XL is constantly turning in my head. But maybe I’ll get this TMax in the meantime.
With this type of bed I've had worst results when cleaning with ipa. Try and wash it with dish soap and dry it without touching the surface, I get the best results this way.
And yes, like you said; these carborundum build surfaces are very delicate when it comes to the oils from your fingers.
If you live in tropical climate power loss isn't a problem with them because parts will take forever to release. Most of the time I have to pop the glass on the fridge for a couple of minutes to get the parts to release.
In my experience they start to release below 25-30C, which is not easy to get too where I live.
Yup, never had good luck with IPA. Dawn Platinum is magic for this type of bed
@@hyperspeed1313 haha same one I use
I bought a tycoon (can't remember if it's a max, too lazy to go check) and could not have been more happy with it! I will say though--it is my first 3D printer and I wouldn't know any better! My favorite thing about it though, is that it was up and running in 30 minutes! My prints have always turned out well with two big caveats:
1: I used Kywoo brand filament. I tried another cheaper brand off amazon, and it actually broke one of the printer parts! I also got a kywoo rainbow filament and it did not work out too well. But luckily I just use it for prototyping and making lithophanes so white black and green have all worked wonderfully.
2: It isn't super cold. I live in the corner of the house, and my room is generally 10 degrees colder or so, and a few times during a cold front the PLA just popped off in the middle of a print. I'm planning on getting a case or something for it!
Otherwise, besides a few broken wires on the heating bed that I duct-taped together, it has been a great 3D printer for me! Though as I said before, I haven't experimented with it much!
All my poly roller printers need far more maintenance and tuning than my guide rail machines.
Given a choice, I'll NEVER choose poly wheel setups.
Watching this makes me feel like you would find the Anycubic Vyper interesting.
I've bought one and am super happy with it for the price.
Your fresh shirts makes me miss the summer in my country😅🇩🇰
I had the same problem with the Ultra Base like surface on my Sidewinder X1 after cleaning it for a few times with Isopropanol. I also had yellow residue on the papertowel and after some prints even PLA startet to lift too.
I used to do it to older versions with no issue, but maybe this newer stuff is slightly different? Might have to use detergent and water like most people suggest, or just swap it for some more G10.
@@MakersMuse I still recommended the Sidewinder X1 to a friend, but warned him to not use alcohol on the bed. He's still printing without any adhesion problems on the original bed! So my guess is, that the yellow residue is some kind of adhesive but I'm not sure about it. 😅
@@MakersMuse I'm fairly certain it's residue from the protective film adhesive. Try washing with soap and water (and scrubbing) until it stops which it eventually will, in my experience.
@@candorman9444 It disappears after some print and clean intervals with IPA and still stick like hell, no issues.
The new hair + the MM salute. Please DON'T grow a small moustache.
Dayum Angus, looking slick today aren't ya?
This guy needs to be a consultant for these companies.
But then we wouldn't get videos like this as all the constructive criticism would be done inhouse out of public view.
I like to see that a company is taking note of the criticism and doing something about it
Omg Angus I absolutely love that shirt
that pineaple shirt is the best thing i have seen today (y)
The issue with the bed seems to be the same as I and other’s had with the Creality CR6, Creality said to use iso alcohol then changed their mind admitting it was damaging the glass beds so even PLA print would come off.
Nice of you to colour match with the devise. 😝
I have watched loads of reviews of this printer and was hoping to pull the trigger on this one as a first printer but now back to square one, I'm glad you reviewed this one and showed the good points and the buggy points, I just don't know what to go for with budget of £600 to £700 there is to much choice but most seem to be clones of clones of clones, I don't want to have to upgrade as soon as it arrives I want a good direct drive and mesh levelling and rails not rollers and be rigid I don't care about WiFi but would prefer USB or direct pc connection, I would have thought by now this should be standard, not everyone wants to tinker but everyone wants to print with out buggy issues.
I would say look into the tycoon slim its actually a great improvement! While I haven't had the tycoon max I have had the normal tycoon and the slim makes it feel like a prototype imo
Thanks Angus. All valid flaws you mentioned. Was there anything that you really liked about it, anything innovative or an improvement over other, typical printers?
Zorg from fifth element got a new job. Good to see the Justice system rehabilitant and not just punishing.
Are you going to pre-order the Prusa XL? ;) Would love to hear your thoughts on the reveal video in any case.
Very fair critical feed back, well done
I'm on my second tycoon printer , each has had problems with wifi (nightmare) , random reboots as well as randomly freezing up during a print . Those are just the issues that stand out . Their website for downloads can be confusing also . I'll be sending this one back as well .
Thank you for an excellent review .
Angus, I would love to see, and I bet a lot of your subscribers would also like to see, your 'dream design' for small and large format FDM printers. What I am thinking is simply you making up the perfect blend of features and how they would be implemented across the various price points, say $300 US, $400 US etc. or however you would break that down. I.E. if YOU were going to put together a printer aimed at sensible price points what would that machine be like and why? That would be a truly informative Video being that your depth of knowledge around what is possible and how these systems work is so complete. What do you think? Is a video like that doable? If there is some reason why it isn't, why not?
Thanks for all you do, we value and appreciate you out here. I am tinkering along with my TronXY1 and your channel has informed and improved my efforts so much. What I have learned from you has turned that little piece of kit from a novelty into an incredibly useful appliance for all of my DIY around the house. Thanks again from a grateful subscriber.
I prefer a solid mounted bed. Springs are training wheels for new users.
Spring mounts might let you externally level the bed (vs internally, which is the flatness of the plate) but they limit the print speed of an i3 because the mass of the bed accel/decel causes tilt and wobble.
I turned solid mounts on my lathe, did a gross level of the bed by filing down their lengths, added TH3D EZABL and have been very happy ever since. Zero problems.
As long as the carriage is nice and flat, I agree. :) (And the x properly trammed)
@@brandoneich2412 There are tolerances. If the bed is out of flat by > 0.1mm you should replace it, or try shimming techniques to bring it under spec.
When you put the solid mounts in, you align the X to the plate by filing the mounts in. It helps to mount a micrometer to the print head.
Important thing is not to be dead flat or perfectly aligned, but within tolerance to avoid first layer adhesion issues.
I own a Flsun QQ-S, with the bed being the same material. The yellow stuff that comes off with Isopropyl seemingly is from the manufacturing process and somewhat interferes with bed adhesion. Another trick that I found helps adhesion is to heat the bed to 70c, and then let it cool to 60c. I don't know why it works, but I've had no issues with elephants foot.
great points
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
loving the pineapple shirt bro
Nice review video
It'd be cool if you tested the IDEX version! I love dual extrusion. But I'm not interested in this printer anymore, so many issues!
Unless you have a v-slot tree in your backyard it seems like an expensive design choice in this case.... But with Chinese manufacturing economics, v-slot may be actually be the cheapest option for them.
Good review George McFly, I mean Angus :p
The yellow gunk is probably adhesion promoting nano polymer. 60°C is ridiculously little if you are running glass, though it depends on how the thermistor is mounted, if it's well coupled to the heater, that's especially bad, if it's hanging loose there, that's more adequate. So it's 60°C on the thermistor but that glass will be barely warm.
Being used to the open design style my Prusa has along with many other printer designs I've seen in reviews, its looks are somewhat 'boxy', I wonder how easy it is to maintain.
Looks like a lulzbot clone
It's two pieces of sheet metal.
I'm sure it's not rocket science.
@@mizz1414 It does look a lot like a mirror flipped Taz.
@@dangerous8333 You're right it won't be rocket science, I'm thinking back to the awkwardness of dealing with the sheet metal boxes of PCs when digging around inside of them, not all of which have been designed with upgrade ease in mind.
it's cheaper to ship when the bed nests inside
Hey Angus,
Good overall review. However, since I was early KS backer, and have one of the first machines produced. I've been using my Tycoon for over 6 months 💯 stock, I'm going to disagree/counter review some of the things mentioned.
First agreement:
1. Filament Sensor location, not ideal, and the issue you pointed is right. What I do is manually extrude the filament in the hotend, until it's thru the sensor, then extrude it back out, and pull it to the side, so it doesn't go back to the sensor. Not ideal, but works. The good thing about the sensor location is that you loose very little Filament, when you run out.
2. Heat bed does heat up slow. They do sell high efficiency heat bed now, and I think the new machines are coming fitted with it.
3. Hotend is not the best, but it's not crap either, as you say. It being their proprietary aluminum block design of integrated feeder+hotend, could use a dual gear feeder, and better throat, for better results. Can it be improved, definitely yes. Is it crap, definitely Not!
4. SD card slot gap is true. But, I've never had 1 fall in, cuz I'm careful... LoL
I agree with the option for USB stick as well
5. Wifi: it's MKS WiFi chip. I agree that it's hacky with stock Fw. However, it works very well with latest fw v201. They announced on fb this week that they're coming up with a better wifi fw in a couple weeks, to make it easier to play with. But, I love the option to control my machine, and even send prints to it (very slow upload), without having to setup/use octopi.
6. Parts cooling fan: is inadequate, at times. The biggest issue is that it could melt, and warp, and hit/snag onto the prints. My overhang, and bridging tests have been quite acceptable. However, a user has already designed better parts cooling fan replacement, which works better than stock. I know that he's working on an even better design, which actually might be an overkill.. lol
7. Cable stain relief and management: does need improved. However, I've not had any accidents due to it, thus far
Now, disagreements:
1. Y linear support rails : personally, I'm not a fan of rollers. Who cares if they used V slot extrusions, and linear support rails. I think linear support rails work much better than rollers.
2. Heatbed wobble: could have been shipping damage, cuz this is the first I've even heard of this issue. No one has had this issue, on the official FB group, and my prints have been very sharp, since Day 1. I'd be happy to show you examples, but you can see some in the FB group as well. So, that's just an unfortunate 1-off, cuz I do like not having to deal with rollers, or eccentric nuts.
3. Hotend/print quality/slicer: I'm not sure what Cura settings you used, but my profile works fantastic. I don't have any Retraction stringing, or whisping. I do run slowed Accel/jerk on all my machines 800/8. I run combing mode not in skin + avoid options. My Retractions for Tycoon are 2mm @35mms. And I get very clean prints.
4. Glass build plate: I dunno why you're having adhesion issues. I'm 6+ months, I have not had a single print get unstuck, and I also clean my build surface with 70% IPA 1x/week, or when I see visible grease/smudges. Otherwise, just a wipe with microfiber cloth. It actually sticks too well for me. And no, I'm not squishing Filament too much. Perfect first layers.
I hope this was helpful critique. Feel free to hit me up for a further conversation.
🍻, mate
Edit: fixed typos
Hi, could you share your profile? And where I can find parts cooling fan design? Thx
@@bfx8185 it's all in the Files section, in the official FB group. Look for mount by Eli, and Profile+ start/end gcode by Gaurav, and adapted to Max version by Michael, right after my files.
What 3d printer would you recommend that has a 300 by 300 build volume and auto bed leveling?
For some reason I gotta think of Fear and Loathing and an greasy attorney since your last video ..
Angus is getting a lot of mileage out of that 🍍 shirt
love the pineappe shirt
they need 2 fix their problems/QC issues! U'r always helpful with reviews! thanks 4 this!! good luck with the style! I bet U thought about shaving the sides?
I have a same PLA lifting issue with my Voron 2.4 printer, I think becuase the temperature on the surface is 10-15 degrees lower than the temperature the thermistor on the bottom reads. I crank up my temperature and it sticks well.
My dude with the DRIP
I know warping kinda sucks, but I get it with an ender 3 pro, so it's definitely not unheard of. I also beat the clearance castle first try, same printer.
Any hints how?
I see where you're coming from. They designed a good printer but it's suffering from quality control issues. For an original product that isn't another Creality clone, not bad.
yes!! i have one those, except not the max version.
The Yellow residue is from white paint used at the bed-surface... very common situation for Ender 3 v2 standard glass print surface...
I love the shirt.
Love the shirt.
Finally a youtuber that's calling out mesh bed leveling for what it is. It's only taken how long?
I had the smaller tycoon version of this and did not like it that much. That being said I did purchase the tycoon slim printer and it actually is so so much better than the normal tycoon I'd highly recommend the slim to anyone.
WARNING INCLUDED / SHOULD READ !!!
Regarding the yellow residue from the printbed.
I had this on my printer with a similar surface as well, but never saw anything about that online. The bed adhesion wasn't that good either and got worse over time.
A whole year later, after I already switched to a magnetic base, I stumbled upon a video wich tackled that with half a sentence. Don't know which video that was, or who made it.
But he said, that this carborundum may be very hard but dissolves in alcohol. So by wiping it with IPA, you remove the coating.
I don't know if that ist true, but it would explain, why I could wipe this residue of for quite a time and why my adhesion got worse.
So as a hint for everyone with such a build surface: Maybe just clean it with warm water and a bit of soap now and then.
I wipe after every print with 99IPA and never had any problems. You just do it never when it’s hot or warm. Also all other plate’s I use this method. Never had to used any glue or spray in my life and don’t want to.
@@lazyman1011
Indeed I always cleaned my bed warm, believing it might clean better this way. On my BuildTak surface that was needed to get it nice and clean again.
So maybe that's the thing you have to avoid on this carborundum surface.
@@MirageDU Always clean „cold“ and without soap stuff. But there are many religions outthere and I only write from my experience. I only use IPA and nothing else since many prints.
Precision ground rollers are soooo much straighter than extruded aluminum slotted parts.
super true and frontal review
If you were to bolt on the base from the top side down, you would likely have to still lift the whole frame a cm or two to reach the base. The base is the only thing that rests on the table top, the frame hangs from the base...
I hope you see this comment because I am reviewing one of these units for them as well and the unit I received I have had a few problems with the first problem that I had even happened before getting the printer which is somehow they shipped to instead of one. I’m sure logistics is a nightmare especially with a new company so that is definitely overlooked. But I wanted to know in the unit that you tested how much did you actually print on it the units that I have both once I got a few bugs fixed I printed for three weeks straight 24 hours a day . Everything seemed fine and I’ve also print fairly simple parts so cooling was not an issue but at almost the exact same time on both the printers the thermistor cable for the heat pad broke in the exact same spot the cable is too short and is rubbing against the framework for the heat bed . I was able to temporary Solder The cable but that did not last long . I even removed the zip tie from the cable management to give it a little bit more slack but that seem to not help I believe that with a cable rubbing on a frame and not being long enough that there is no way for this problem to go away unless an extension is made. What are your thoughts? I too had the same problem with the loose bed and when tightening the screws had it interfere with the stepper. I was able to fix that by just shortening the screw. And I also had the same problems with the SD card slot. Thanks for your review and possibly reading this!
Glad to hear more real world feedback, the bed cable failing is a matter of time as doesn't have correct strain relief.
@@MakersMuse what’s really surprising is that generally speaking it is an over built nice machine! But the deflection in the bed and the cable breakage is definitely no go from a long term standpoint
you rock Angus
There are bed ' upgrade kits ' that have silicone standoffs, they should consider that instead of what ever was the slowly shrinking spacers.
Yeah, that yellow seems to be common in most unboxing videos w/ glass beds. It needs to be cleaned off completely.
I was having big problems with getting my prints to stick on my Ender 3 Max, which was quite disallusioning for a beginner, but when I cleaned the surface all that yellow stuff started coming off, and after a lot of cleaning the problems went away and I haven't had problems since. Each time I start up the printer I use isopropanol to clean it because fingerprints and dust seem to be magnetically attracted to the surface!
@@IanSlothieRolfe I've been told that Ultistick flex sheets don't care about fingerprints. The source has a print farm used in his business.
I've had a artillery genius for a few months now with the same kind of build surface, and every time I wipe it down with ipa the rag turns yellow. I have no idea what it is but it still happens after several months.
Huh. I have the same issue with my artillery sidewinder x2
I think you might be wiping away the surface with IPA. The surface finish of the Creality glass bed was changed when I did the same thing.
Hi Marker, Precision ground rollers are soooo much straighter than extruded aluminum slotted parts. :)
Oh, absolutely! But over this length the 8mm rods are quite bouncy. Thicker would be a better solution, it's just funny that the frame is made from V slot without using it.
Result: It's really quite decent. You don't expect that from a cickstarter company these days.
Honestly don't think V rollers are a great idea in the first place. They likely just had access to surplus extrusion, making it cheaper than buying traditional T-slot extrusion.
The improvements they need are a lot of small things that just needed a bit of foresight to correct, so hopefully they do better.
That yellow stuff seems to be left behind by the filament on my coated glass bed. I use IPA on mine, maybe I shouldn't according to comments here, but the yellow stuff only shows up after printing and seems to correlate with poor adhesion. After cleaning it off (the paper towel looks identical), parts stick fine again.
that's an amazing shirt!
It seems GM Hikaru's shirt is spreading well across categories
I know this video is a year old now but do you have a recommendation for a printer at this price point with this capacity? I've been using the regular size Tycoon for about three years with really good results but I've been wanting a second printer with a larger capacity, at least 300 x 300 or larger. Your experience with Kywoo has been completely different than mine but this review has caused me to pause before buying their Max. I would appreciate if you had a recommendation for a larger capacity printer in the same general price range. Thank you.
Looks like it has potential to be a good 3D printer👍
Where did you get that amazing shirt
your haircut looks great!
In a boy band sort of way.
Hello, could you please check for me if the horizontal installed fan next to nozzle is spinning when you set the fan speed via the touch interface? Mine isn't working and I am not sure if it is damaged or not. I am new to 3d printing.
Hi Angus where can i find Start G-Code for Prusa-Slicer?
Cool how you colour matched your shirt to the printer - maybe you could start the pineapple shirt review - which means the printer is crap .
Looks to me like someone got on the sauce and thought “let’s design a printer “ - either that or the monkeys at the local zoo designed it for them !
Cool pineapple polo
Is that not a usb slot to the right of the microsd slot? It totally looks like one? 🤔 if not, what is that rectangular slot to the right of the micro SD slot?
Indeed, it's a micro B but for flashing firmware to the board not loading Gcode for printing.
Rods with bearings last significantly longer than plastic v roller wheels, I guess that's why they went with rods?
And has smoother motion..
How long do plastic v roller last?
Longer than most people ever need?
this needs a new fan duct design asap
It got the same color off my textured glass print bed on my ender 3 V2 when I cleaned it with IPA.