We got another 3D Printer! I have a new addiction...
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
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Thanks for printing my CHEP Cube and CHEP Pawn. You can use my Cura profiles with the Ender 5 which should help you print better.
I also have an extra fast profile to cut print time in half (with reduced quality).
Jay, listen to this dude!
Coming from the trucking industry, my initial thought when seeing your name is the pallet company.
What a trip seeing you here. Would the profiles work on my Anycubic Mega X?
@@Nareimooncatt why would you bring back such painful memories, damn chep pallets.....
@@Gimpy17 hey, why should I suffer alone? Lol
Been a 3D modeler for 16 years, and the moment I could hold one of my models in my hands for the first time was an overwhelmingly awesome experience.
I agree, that's magical experience. Especially, when you're working with virtual assets your whole career.
Same! I would put it up there when you go from high quality stills to animating your own movie and watching those first four months of work in motion for the first time.
I'm still a noob when it comes to CAD, but I understand the feeling. At least some basic modeling skills are almost a must if you own a 3d printer, it changes it from an expensive toy to an incredible tool.
@@C-M-E Ah yes, those first 4 months, ...of rendering....aaaaaand you have 10 seconds.
*sigh. Poor little Core 2 duo...duoing it's best.
Sure is different now.
@@C-M-E I would love to reach that point, but right as I was figuring out character modeling in Maya, my school went bankrupt and left me to foot the bill. As much as I despise blender, gonna have to learn blander.
Just FYI Jay, you can pretty easily use modern Cura on a lulzbot. You just have to set up the "machine" yourself in the software. It's pretty simple though.
This and he needs to get OctoPrint/OctoPi. I cringe when I see people use the TFT touchscreens. He could have got 2x Voron 2.4's for the price of the lulzbot.
@@SolarityTechnology the thing is he’s getting all this for free from micro center so he’s not really “invested” I guess you could say, outside materials of course
I do hope he reads your comments though it would save him time and money he is wasting right now just blindly printing
Modern Curac with tower or tree supports would would work much better for that Stitch model.
His lulzbot failing cals, I've never seen a lulzbot do that. Check the wiring harnesses, i think the cal wire is loose somewhere
@@thefatmoop no, I've used several lulzbots as well. He explained the exact issue perfectly. It relies on conductivity between the nozzle and the 4 touch points. If any plastic is oozing out of the nozzle it will insulate the connection point. This is very common on those lulzbot machines. Its a terrible design. I don't even use the auto calibration because of it.
I would recommend that with every filament you get print a "temp tower" a "retraction tower" , then you print a "swatch" that will have tons of little test on them, best temps etc... and that you can keep on record for color and transparency. so next time you want to do a print you will have the swatches to color match and test.
Best tool for calibration: teaching tech 3d printer calibration
He has some good videos for beginners, if you've got the time.
You can pretty easily swap nozzles (and you should every few months, they're a consumable!), a 0.4 is pretty good for detailed models, especially if you've got curves, however I print with a 0.6, and for PC sizes I'd recommend that, or even bigger, even if only for prototyping.
For bigger nozzles you'll get a little bit more rounded corners, also harder to remove supports (which also happens with bigger layer heights).
For retractions (jumping between points without printing), pressure advance is very good, you should research that.
I'm unfamiliar with the enders, but the Auto Bed Leveling should have an offset option that you can change mid print, so you can get a good/perfect first layer (very important!). If it isn't there, you should be able to enable it in firmware.
Also for a studio environment you should make the printers silent(er), I know some enders have silent boards that you can buy, or you can buy stepper drivers separately, if the board supports it (the drivers should be TMC 2208 or 2209). It might have them for all I know, but it could be in the wrong mode, which I think is changed in firmware.
I don't print with PLA, but direct drive makes a huge difference in "blobs" and "strings" with PETG, should be pretty major for other filaments too.
PLA prints very well with maximum cooling (however that might come with reduced layer bonding strength), that should help especially with overhangs.
I HAD NO IDEA NOZZLES ARE A CONSUMABLE THANK YOU
Teaching Tech is my go to source for info.
Before I bought my Ender 3 pro, after I bought it, when doing upgrades, when changing the motherboard to a 32 bit version, when adding a bl touch, when doing a 0 to complete calibration.
All info came from him!
As a 3D printing and pc building enthusiast I am thrilled to see you join the 3d community. If you really want to take this printer to its limits, make sure to install new firmware on it besides just installing the mods. It makes a world of difference and enables both faster and better quality printing at the same time because it unlocks higher accelerations and advanced features like linear advance and input shaping.
Your modding project were already top notch, but I'm sure that with the help of your new printers you will take them to a whole other level. Keep it up
Creality is a reputable brand for FDMs; I use the Ender 3-V2 (with mods).
I'm sure plenty have commented already, but here are some inexpensive/straightforward modifications you can do that really improve prints and reliability once you feel ready:
- Dual gear metal extruder (reduces extrusion skips, more reliable and consistent feed)
- Silicon Bed springs (once calibrated, it will never need adjusting)
- Capricorn PTFE tubing (longer-lasting, less likely to clog)
-Filament Runout sensor (you may already have it? It does require a simple software update)
-PEI Flexplate (Really good for removing prints, good adhesion too. Added bonus, the bottom layer can be super smooth)
Having gotten into this hobby about 6 months ago, I understand the addiction. Started with a stock Ender 3 Pro, and now I have more mods than I should (probably), but I love it all. Nothing like 'growing' your own stuff.
You guys really need to get the Silent Motherboard, it gets rid of that motor noise entirely.
Just wait until Jay discovers the speed printing community and he specs out his own voron build to take them on. It'll be glorious.
can't wait to see how he liquid cools it ;)
Voron! w00pw00p!
@@BennyVermeulen get him a V0.1 supercharged
Tbf that ender 5 plus should have the capability to be fairly competitive
@@jamieswain4888 I see alot of people turn ender 5s into either a voron,hevort, or vzbot adaptation
Jay, once I added a the BL-Touch to my ender, I got rid of the springs to level the bed and solid mounted it with aluminum spacers. As long as your frame holds the bed relatively level the BL-Touch will correct any high/low spots. You'll spend much less time having to calibrate the printer in between prints.
Much better choice jay! Another one i reccomend you try is the prusa mk3s. Also cura is the go to slicer and fusion 360 for cad
I've had this printer for a while now and it hasn't missed a beat. Replaced the main board with a silent one, bearing fans and a removable magnetic build plate. Great bang for buck printer for the build volume. Mine is in a really tight space so being able to place the extruder wherever you want is fantastic.
Cable chains let it sit under an overhang and so only the Capricorn tube flops around on top of the printer.
So far haven't had to mess with the actual frame or balance it once.
Lulzbot was always overpriced and is pretty outdated at this point. If you want to look at a plug and play mostly automated printer for a decent price, look at a Prusa MK3S.
Prusa MK3S is fire. I really wanted one but settled on an ender 3 pro because well the price. got one during microcenters promotion for only $99.99. So with the savings it only made sense I'de put another $200 of upgrades into it😂 addiction.
i cant believe they still try to sell that thing for 3 grand though, with how much better competition there is, at a fraction of the price. crazy. its not even like its more of a finished professional product either. it seems to require as much tinkering as the ender.
@@ge2719 its not 3 grand though? its like 700 for you to build yourself so you can understand how to fix it when and if it breaks. if you arent willing to do that then this hobby may not be for you. my ender vs prusa is a no brainer on every front. Also for about 3k you can get their newest prusa big boi 5 extruder blah blah fancy printer so again idk where you are getting 3k from...
Get a Prusa to make a Voron 😏
I am surprised how he has not got a Prusa. They make some of the top notch Printers. Basically made 3d printing a reality.
3D Printing is pretty fun and definitely addictive 😎🤘
Totally agree. And the community is awesome!
@@MakerViking yea except for the IP theft :(
@@mrphysics2625 True, that doesn't define the whole community though.
3D Printing is pretty fun and definitely additive.
I'll see myself out. ;)
What I can recommend to get even more out of your printer especially those like Ender 3s and 5s is to update the firmware (Marlin). Also to setup a monitoring software like Octoprint or Repetier is a good idea so you can send and start prints to the printers without even touching the one of them expect from turning them on
Since I installed Octoprint on my Ender 3, I've never touch the lcd and button to the point it was very dusty, lol (I only cleaned the bed and rail 😂)
Even better is to run them on Klipper and Fluidd/Octo. Personally i cant go back to Marlin.
I was about to say the same thing
Defo would use the one from Insanity Automation, it has a lot more settings opened.. its just that the stock firmware is dirt crap
@@P4P5 yeah good point. My second ender 3 pro is running Klipper but it was a bit of a hassle to setup, at least for me
I got the ender 5+ 2 months ago for my work. There's a lot of upgrades for the ender 5+. I upgraded the bed to magnetic and PEI. I took me about 2 weeks to tune the printer before I could use it for work. I had a lot of problems with bed leveling, bed adhesion and layer adhesion. After most of the problems is solved, the printer has been working very well. It printed 300+ models over 3 weeks running 24/7.
I feel you, Jay. I often would see these 3D prints and think to myself "I wish I could do that". I finally bought a Creality Ender 3 V2, and have been tinkering with it since. I've already dumped even more money into upgrades...it does get addicting!
I got the 3 pro and it already has been upgradet with the cr touch and direct drive metal extrouder xD
I really recomend the cr touch level for the ender printers
Same printer I have. It’s so quiet too. I’m running noctua cooling fans and the silent stepper drivers are great. I’m very confused why Lulzbot is still selling printers that don’t have silent stepper drivers, but yet cost thousands
I go Prusa MK2 years back and now it looks nothing like it did when new :)
Hi Jay! Big fan of your channel, a lot of your videos contributed to my first PC build 2 years ago. I've built 3 more since then, it's quite an exciting time! I always enjoy every video of yours, please keep the amazing content up for years to come! I bought my first 3D printer, the Ender 3 Pro, a little over year ago. It's such a fun hobby and I can't stop printing! Since then, I've gotten an Elegoo Saturn S resin printer and most recently purchased an Ender 5 Plus, and I just cannot believe that my favorite RUclipsr purchased the same machine, also from my favorite store! You're going to love the direct drive extruder! I recommend upgrading to the silent board to reduce A LOT of noise from the motors. This printer is, just as you said, perfect for tinkerers, and you will have a blast modding the hell out of it! Looking forward to the future content about 3D printed PC upgrades! 😁
Being a car guy also, I used feeler gauges instead of paper to level the bed. I've since upgraded my Ender 3 with a BL touch. I highly advise that upgrade.
for my filament printer I not long ago got a set of feeler gauges because paper was starting to become more and more inaccurate for me that when I wanted to print something in filament it took twice as long just making sure it'll stick from a properly leveled bed.
there ender 5 has a auto bed level already
It's interesting to watch someone I look up to as an expert in one area, come into another field as a noob and have such similar experiences to my own in the beginning.
Welcome to an even deeper and more nuanced rabbit hole than PCs, Jay! Happy printing!
3d printing is awesome its actually easier for me to print complex things than a label from ups 95% of the time
9:57 Nick's face after the nozzle size comparison is pretty priceless :DDDD
Definitely check out Prusa Slicer, it's very intuitive to use and has some nice features like adaptive layer heights which would work nicely for that stitch model. I use it for all of my printers of various makes.
I recently switched to SuperSlicer from PrusaSlicer. It's a fork of PrusaSlicer with a few improvements/enhancements. They're both good, but I think SuperSlicer is a little better
Agreed on Prusa I've had issues with Cura, plus Prusa pause function for changing filement for multicolor prints is awesome.
I won’t go back to Cura.
Creality Slicer is amazing tho. Just choose advanced mode and you have a ton of good settings to tune with.
Hi Jay, just a quick note for Creality Ender printers: The stepper motors they use have a resolution of 0.04mm, meaning that especially your Layer height should always be a multiple of 0.04. You said your layer height is 0.25 which is 0.01 too high, which can introduce layer inconsistencies when printing bigger stuff. You should set it to 0.24 because of that^^
Not the stepper motor's resolution, the vertical screw's thread pitch, 8mm per turn or 360 rotation, but yeah, sticking to .04 gets you full or half turns of the screw per layer, which is a good thing.
Start researching into open source firmware for your printers, I've migrated my printers to Klipper and haven't looked back! Marlin is also a very good option as well
Get open source firmware that's compatible with OctoPi, and control it with a web page interface.
I tried Klipper on Duet Wifi a while ago. It was unable to maintain a stable USB connection. But, it did work sometimes and it was a breeze. I stopped trying at some point.
i just got a printer for my bday, 4/12, dude, i'm so freaking addicted. I love it. I got a ender 3, printed one thing and already have added a bl touch, new motherboard, v2 screen, compiled my own firmware .. etc...
Love watching you guys get into 3D printing. Bought my first ender 2 years ago and iv'e got and three printers now. Actually had never heard of Lulzbot before.
I work in paper production and my facility has HUGE extruder machines that puts poly coating onto the paper which is used for mostly food packaging. We use poly resins such as PLA, PET, LD, etc. Very interesting hearing 3D printing as extruding and using PLA
I would give Prusa Slic3r a try as an alternative to Cura. I myself prefer Super Slic3r but that has too many options and would recommend for more experienced users.
I purchased the Ender 5+ as my first 3D printer. For weeks I printed and messed with it and had some success but always had to check the bed level with the dual motors driving it up and down. the bed would always end up not level. Ended up buying the MicroSwiss direct drive full metal print head and an SKR v1.4 turbo control board and screen. Using Marlin firmware those 2 motors are now driven individually. Now my printer can sit for weeks and I just turn it on and send a print and it works great. It levels the bed right to left and goes. It is so much easier to use now.
Yep, I got an Ender 3 a few years ago, and I've probably put 3x that price into upgrades...direct drive extruder among them. Worth it.
Did the DD extruder eliminate printing errors where the filament skips on the extruder cog? i have been thinking about getting a DD extruder but just want to scout "the road ahead".
at the moment i am having some issues mid print where the filament starts skipping from the cog that pushed it into the nozzle and filament stops flowing through ruining a good few hours into the print.
@@KazPeRinzky I'd say the actual cog mechanism on the MicroSwiss DD kit is definitely an improvement over stock (or even the all-metal stock upgrades). I haven't had any issues with it so far. The only upgrade I do have an issue with is a dual-Z-axis upgrade, which has...something...going on with it.
few tips I use for 3d printing. Use a higher temp for the first layer like 220 225 then drop it to your optimal print temp of say 205. This greatly helps with bed adhesion. Second print the first layer at half the speed of the rest of the print, again helps with bed adhesion. 3rd always level the printer with the nozzle and bed at printing temp.
I use this printer personally, absolutely love it
I struggled with bed levelling for months on my Ender 3. I didn't have auto bed levelling. It wasn't until I learnt to do it properly and stopped using the paper method that I solved every issue I had. The method I use instead is, preheat bed and extruder and then homing the printer (setting it's height to 0.0), then using the menu set the height to 0.3. I then use a feeler gauge, a strip of metal that is exactly 0.3mm thick, and adjust the levelling screws in each corner until the nozzle is just touching it (should only feel slight resistance). I do this several times in each corner and in the middle, ensuring they are all the same amount of resistance. Its also super important that you preheat the bed and extruder to your intended print temperature as the metal will warp and expand slightly. (Obviously, no filament in the extruder at this point).
Relevel the bed every time you move the printer, or after 2-3 prints or if there is a change in print temp.
The reason this works is because when you start printing, you don't start printing at 0. It starts at whatever your initial layer height is. By using the paper, you are adding an offset from the start. Paper varies in thickness and it's not accurate. The characteristics of each bed may be different too due to manufacturing. Having a glass bed can help also.
If issues with bed adhesion persists after having a level bed, it'll be because of a number of other issues. It could be your nozzle or bed temperatures ( too high or not high enough for your filament) or ambient room temp fluctuations causing the print to cool unevenly (this causes warping, usually in the corners) or the print surface itself. Adding a skirt to the print can help as well as a rough surface to print on. If using a glass bed, I like to use painter's/masking tape.
I recommend using 10-15% infill on your prints, unless you need it to withstand a really heavy load
Use a chemical bath to smooth the print. If ABS you can use acetone. Each plastic has a chemical that can be used. You'll have to look up what to use for PLA. Smooth with a chemical that malts the plastic rather than trying to sand it.
I look forward to seeing Jay start looking into printing high temp materials and going that rabbit hole.
So, Just saying, but you could export the printer profiles that were made for the luzbot, and import them into a newer version of cura... then you don't need to tune and you can take advantage of new features. Every printer except for proprietary ones like Stratasys can have g code sliced from any slicing software
Welcome to the rabbit hole Jay, you'll love it! I've got an Ender 5 Plus as well and it's a great machine. About to upgrade extruder to a Bondtech LGX Lite myself, one of many future upgrades.
How have you gotten on with the 5 plus? I'm looking to get one at the end of the month, have you had any issue with prints?
@@mbr0wn950 I have one too, insulate the underside of the bed, it gets cold spots, so large prints can lift in places.
You can smooth out layer lines with wood filler, I use white and water it down to like syrup consistency, after that you can add acrylic paint to get whatever colour you want and apply it with a paint brush 👌🏻 I've just finished the makerbot T-Rex skull and it came out flawless
This almost completely goes over my head but I’ve a feeling printing anything for your computer should be less than 10% as complicated as that stitch thing.
yeah thats a pretty serious early print to jump into.
I do a lot of 3d printing for cosplay so I know a bit about getting a pla print ready for paint. Start by figuring out your optimal settings (layer height, movement speed, retraction speed, temps) so you can get consistent, quality prints. Once you get a good print the steps I follow are; sand, prime, sand, polish, prime, paint.
The bulging corners can be prevented by tuning linear advance. Also the ender has newer stepper drivers so should produce better prints and be quieter.
Should note, partially (arguably, mostly) caused by the spring load in the bowden tube. But yes! dead on. It's crazy to think that mechanically the original 3D printers from the 80's mostly work the same 😅 the huge jump has been in software, and arguably the jump to 32-bit boards (i still have a Replicator Dual w/wood frame that i got around 2012-13, prints just as good as a Prusa)
@@MrHeHim yeah at the end of the day a FDM 3d printer is basically still just a robotic hot glue gun but they have definitely been improvements over the years, expecially to the lower end market.
also 80mm /sec ... it has to speed up first, then slow down again so its not going 80 the whole time, it can offset print times because of that. also if you want faster prints update the settings to include fewer walls, and top/bottom layers even all the way to 1 or 2 layers, i like to keep 1 wall at .8
Try using tree supports in cura on Stitch. Also, a couple light coats of filler primer and sanding before painting will help hide the layers
Yep filler primer and sanding. It always annoys me when people think you can just print the perfect finish. Maybe on some models you get away with it but you can save a lot of time and material by using fillers and sanding it to a smooth finish.
Was gonna write thise myself. Love tree supports as they are way easier to remove and faster to print
I have had 8 printers 7 printing at one time before. Constantly tuning and calibrating. I sold everything about 6 months ago. I went get an ender 3 S1 yesterday. This thing is so good it's just so good. I was printing in about 20 minutes and the very first print was flawless. Like almost zero effort. I highly recommend the ender 3 S1. Once they have a larger version I'm getting that also. It's just the most finished printer I've ever owned.
I would recommend upgrading the mainboard for the Ender 5. The one you have has A4988 drivers (because the printer is loud in movement in the X and Y axis). The newer Creality mainboards use TMC drivers which are MUCH quieter. There are also other mainboards like the SKR Mini and others that also have TMC drivers.
I would say that for both printers.
For the 5 plus id say the skr mini e3 v3 or skr 2. The skr 2 has 5 tmc2209 drivers so you can use g34 for z leveling
Welcome. What started out as an Ender 3 for me is now. A Voron V0.1 and 2 Voron 2.4's. It's a pain in the ass to learn and figure out how to tune things. But starting with the Ender that you did is a great starting point. With some mod's that thing is gonna rip out parts for you faster than you know what to do with!
I wouldn't say you're 10 years late; even the guys at LTT say the last 10 years of printers has been expensive and generally difficult to setup and keep running properly.
Jay make sure you recheck your adjustments after doing all the corners double check them again because the movement of one knob will change the position on all 4 corners esp. when your dealing with such a small adjustment.
I am so excited for you guys with the 3d printing rabbit hole that you've just jumped head first into.
Don't feel bad Jay. I've been doing it for just over a year. Started a side business and have 14 to 16 printers. That includes the ones that are down and possibly used for parts.
I want to say thank you forgetting into this world. Goes along with my computer building , 3d molding and printing. Love this content.
If you do a bed calibration print, basically flat discs arranged in an X pattern with a wide skirt adhesion, it'll make bed calibration SO MUCH easier. I was scraping my bed with the nozzle a lot while using the paper method. Another advantage to this is that you can adjust the wheels while the bed is hot. When the bed heats up the materials expand, so doing cold calibration doesn't really do you much good.
Jay is 10 years late to this hobby, but I'm glad he finally found his way! I've been printing for many years already and still love it. I now have kids old enough to start participating as well and they love it too.
10 years late? Who says? 3D printing has been around since the 70s and conceptualized before that. So I think it’s foolish to say that if you didn’t get in during the 3d printing hype train of 2012 you’re late.
@@StunnerAlpha ok, dude...calm down. I said "hobby". There was no mainstream 3d printing hobby in the 70's. I'm well aware that 3d printing has been around since the 70's in the manufacturing space. Thanks for the comment though. (insert eyeroll)
@@StunnerAlpha it was actually early/mid 80s, nothing commercial until late 80s, and the RepRap project didn't start until the early 2000's - which is why hobby/desktop printers became available
If you want supports to pop off in one piece just buy looking at it. Stock settings then edit with the following: tree supports enabled, touching build plate only, 0 to 1 support wall, 0 to 3% support density (I always do 0%), connect support lines enabled, support brim enabled.
Remember bed leveling will solve most problems that others would say upgrade this upgrade that, dry pla, use adhesives, etc… if the filament doesn’t stick you’re too high, if it’s transparent/extruder clicking or rough surface then you’re too low.
The rounded corners can come from the nozzle oozing while slowing down at the corner. Can be tuned out with linear/pressure advance. Also get some ipa to clean the bed frequently, that helps bed adhesion quite a bit.
ipa = India Pale Ale? I generally like to stay in bed the next day if I have a lot of IPA... as for isopropyl alcohol, I haven't tried drinking this, as I slightly value my life.
What also helps is getting that direct drive on it to get really sharp corners, like mine can take out your eye lol.
IPA (which he did mention in previous video) + some general bed glue. I've got 2 PLA glues at work, can't tell difference.. Students using the workshop add more glue after each print while I've noted that it works fiiine for 10+ prints or washing the bed with IPA.
@@Lanka0Kera I use bed weld even on my textured pei for large abs prints. Makes bed adhesion so much simpler!
also, for support material, i like to use 15 to 20 % support density because its easier to break away, uses less material, and you need less post processing.
Yeah, you can lose yourself in 3D printing. Sometimes my mind will wander for hours just thinking of stuff to print.
So if you intend to sand down your prints, you might switch to PETG, as it tends to take the sanding a lot better than PLA. Also you can buy nozzles down to .2mm for your printer. PETG also has a higher glass transition temp, meaning it will last a lot longer in hot environments, like being strapped to a GPU or sitting in a car on a hot day, where PLA will start to deform. At some point you might upgrade to an all metal hotend and unlock PC and PA(Nylon) filaments, allowing you to print things that could survive even under the hood of a car. The "cheap" 3d printers like those of the ender line are blank canvases that can seriously outperform $10k machines when set up well. I have 2 FDM printers, and a resin printer, and each one has it's strengths for sure. Cheers, it's a fun and rewarding hobby and you learn a lot more than how to print in the process, it really is a crash course in basic robotics.
I've found out to have the best results with prusa slicer, smoother prints, although all my printers were diy, ultimaker style, corexy (like your ender), and Cartesian (prusa style)... With the lastest updates I think prusa slicer is ahead
give superslicer a look! basically a fully unlocked version of prusaslicer
@@owenwagner9017 will do!
The ender 5 ain't corexy. It's just a square framed cartesian
What firmware your printers are running on?
@@matthewweinberger7023 yeah saw that my bad .....
ENABLE TREE SUPPORTS! This will allow you to have full support without having to build supports from on top of Stitch's legs. Otherwise, you have begun the journey down the rabbit hole and have been doing a great job! Good luck!
Just wait till he gets into resin. The detail is insane. Love having both options. Bigger stuff from fdm and detail in resin
Came looking for a "time for an SLA" comment
That’s next month I believe! Resin printers a fantastic bargain. They are, as you know provided a much better print over others methods.
There's also settings like extrusion width (as ratio to nozzle) in slicers, on a 0.4 nozzle I often prefer to use a 0.42mm extrusion width, just so the layers are more 'pancaked' rather than round. Depending on layer heigth you can get some real smooth sides that way. The thing with layer heigth and support (especially in Cura -- I moved to SuperSlicer for the most part, just tree support in cura in some cases can't be matched) is that there's also Z-offset in support, where it's often a part of the layer heigth. If I do real thin layers, I often add another layer extra between the print itself and support, because it'd be so thin it'd be hard to remove otherwise. On stupid stuff like a 0.05mm layer heighth (with a yolo 0.25mm nozzle possibly) I even triple it so the airgap between support and print is 0.15mm :D. For the rest... especially when printing PLA, cooling is all about drooping. On my printer I use EVA as carriage/extruder frame, (LGX + nowadays a Rapido HF hotend), and added a second cooling fan to just cool PLA faster. Especially when printing fast :D
Ender 3 v2 owner here, totally agree with your assessment of the Ender 5 not holding your hand but in the end if you stick at it, you'll get much better results. Also, that 0.4 nozzle can be changed out anytime you need. If you want more speed less detail, try a 0.6 or you want more detail you can go 0.3 or even lower. FYI, Creality factory firmware is crap, install something else or even compile your own. I Use Jyers UI on mine as that is specific to my printer. Hopefully you'll do more 3D printing stuff as I'd enjoy watching your journey with the technology.
I hope the 3d printing sparks more custom pc building content! I love that stuff and it's great original content too!
Now all Jay needs is laser cutter to make his own acrylic side panels.. Frame out of stock steel/aluminium profile with 3d printed end caps. :p
Jay, don't forget to dry out the filament also (heat/dehydrate it for 12h about 10-20c lower than bed-temp)
It makes a ton of difference when you get rid of the moisture interfering with layer adhesion.
If you want to get into laser engraving, creality offers a kit that lets you turn your printer into a laser engraver... pretty cool!
I have just recently got into this hobby, and I am very exited to see you start this journy as well.
Its also fun to see the quallity of printers that I cannot afford.
I can't wait to see the insane Core XY printer that you eventually build, or have built for you... I wanna see the 3d printer version of Skunkworkz
Voron in his future
Theres a couple of calibration files I always print to finetune my slicer settings:
1: temp tower
2: cooling tower
3: flowrate
4: retraction
Throughout those calibration files I will also vary the bed temp to get good adhesion at the lowest possible temp. After that I'm usually good to go. I'm a huge fan of printing ASA (with enclosure). So much reasier than ABS and PC (warpage). PC being MUCH stronger though (only works with small models). ASA is very easy to post process (sanding) and much more temp resistant compared to PLA.
I'd love to see Jay build a Voron v2.4r2 or Trident. Or even converting the Ender 5 Plus to Mercury One would be awesome.
Really excited to see you getting into 3d printing. Couple tips for your supports, for a .4mm nozzle, supports are cleanest at .1 and .2 layer heights. So for parts and quick stuff print at .2, for things you intend to paint print at .1. This only applies on prints that need supports and a .4 nozzle. Have fun Guys.
As an avid Ender 5 Pro user, I definitely recommend printing the "super strut" bed supports.
Great advice I was looking into getting the ender 5. Seems it needs most of the key components replaced.
@@geronimo5537 Stepping up to the 5 Pro addresses many of them. It adds upgraded, silent stepper drivers, all metal extruder, and Capricorn tubing.
All you really need from there is the superstruts, and a Fula-Flex steel print bed.
@@clicketyclack100 could you link to the proper superstruts 3d model? I definitely appreciate your input. Some of the upgrades are quite pricey.
Your flow rate should always be 100%, regardless of temperature. The thing you want to dial in and tune is eSteps. I would definitely print in just PLA+. Temps should be around 210-215c, with cooling fan on and maxed out
You should check out Prusa Mk3S+. They made their own filament. Using their software and filament pretty much guarantee you a successful print. Can’t wait for their XL to become available the end of this year.
Strongly recommend that you print in a well ventilated place, preferably with active exhaust to the outside and even use a shroud. Turns out all kinds of airborne nasties are released during the printing process.
As an engineer at a machine shop (specifically sheet metal but other machines to supplement) I can say that those scanners are awesome, but they'll definitely want your files in a form they can view since you'll already have a 3-D model in the computer :)
Also, if you want a really smooth print, look into acetone vapor bathing. You can do it super cheap and easily for small pieces, and it just melts the surface layer slightly to smooth away the filament layers. I can't remember which filament it works on, but I think it was only ABS.
Oh man, I gotta say your explanations are really useful. I have been attempting to learn 3D Printing over the last 2 years and your simple explanations on why certain prints were difficult are easy to understand. Thanks.
That multizone bed leveling grid is also really nice, since over time sometimes the print beds can get warped. I used to have a crappy printer where the bed had a visible bow to it when I tested it with a level.
Also little tip, try printing at 190 and work up every 5c till you get a preferred preference, then down every 2c till you find the right temp for *that* filament.
I print PLA at about 192c, I've got some old PLA filament that was good quality at 182c
This is amazing. I love seeing you expand your nerdy horizons. I got into the hobby a little over a year ago and haven't looked back since.
Pretty sure someone has mentioned it but I don't feel like reading thru the comments to check, try using tree supports. They don't work right for every model but for many they do a better job than traditional ones. They break away MUCH easier and quite often you can use them from the build plate only.
I recently switched from Cura to Prusa’s slicer and am super happy with its results out of the box for the Ender and PLA. The one feature that took me there was “fill plate with instances” and I haven’t looked back.
I’m 5 months into 3D printing and I’m only now able to “speak the language” of it.
1) Look at tree supports in cura, it's like magic 2) you will need printer capable of print ABS/ASA/PC for part which will be inside PC near hot components like CPU, I have printed some fan holders from PETG and it didn't survived heat of my PC, but everything printed from ABS/ASA works great
Love it as someone who's been interested in 3d print but wants the newbs perspective today this is way more helpful in the getting started process
Me too bro, started with one last Christmas. I ordered my fourth one this week. I also have a desktop full of calibration cubes lol. Keep ‘em coming!
Jay, Welcome to the club! Let's get you away from companies that steal IP though.. Always happy to help out if you want!
I have some extra information that you might not know
1. you can change the extruder tips to different sizes
2. you have a bltouch on the ender 5 max which can "auto level the bed for you" (technically it just maps the build surface and adjust the print to be level to it)
I would recommend installing any/all upgrades right away, and then tuning the printer. If you wait, you'll spend all kinds of time tuning it, then have to do alot of it again when you upgrade. When I got my Ender 3 v2 I immediately changed out the bed springs, installed an all metal extruder, and got a better bowden tube. Then I installed the Jyers UI firmware with a 5x5 mesh bed levelling. Then I tuned the printer. The only changes since then have been a new spring steel bed, put the filament spool off to the left side, and mount a Samsung Galaxy phone to the front to run OctoPrint from the phone. Only the bed change required more tuning, which was just relevelling the bed, something you have to do periodically anyway.
I've just got a printer this month, an Ender 3 S1. Still learning the rope.
I use feeler gauge for bed leveling and nozzle height adjustment (along with an e-leveler) though. I think it's more objective than the paper method.
I love that your just bringing us along for the ride as a noob to 3d printing. Really relatable content for a lot of people.
It is done.
I've stepped those steps.
This is now a 3D printing channel.
Welcome to the club.
So much to do with the e5+. With some simple upgrading and tuning it gets awesome. Also e5+ can only do overhangs well on one side. Because the fan gets blocked on the other sides. Dual cooling fan upgrade with upgraded duct work that you can print solves that. Also, turn off energy saving mode. It turns the need off and prints release early sometimes.
It's a rabbit hole of knowledge and testing to dive down Jay. I love it, recently purchased an Anycubic Kobra.
Welcome to the 3D printing world. I bet, you'll never get out of it again. It's so addictive, and satifying at the same time. The privilege to materialize anything that we draw, is insane.
Jay, if you want to break the support easier, I suggest you look at the support roof setting. I use 2mm roof, with 0.2mm height. Then you can make a less dense support, and about 80% roof density. The quality improved much. 50% should give you a very good quality, but I do a prototype work, and 80% gives me a very smooth surface.
After venturing into FDM printer, and if you love action figures, go get a resin printer. It will take some effort to print with resin, but the detail is crazy. I printed something like Tifa Lockhart, and the details blew me away. Her belt, even her hair. I upgraded to a 4K screen LCD.
Welcome to club. Recently replaced my DIY printer with factory made. Ans now im planning to build Prusa Mini+ clone next. Very addictive hobby this 3d-printing and its related things.
Just so you hear, if y9u read it. I like the 3d printing stuff. I dont think id want you to move 100% to it but definately seeing stuff about it and learning about it is great. And id love to see some stuff about the learning process. I dont have ome but i imagine ill get one eventually
I bought the "Ender 3 V2" 1 month ago, and i'm addicted to 3D printing now. It's an amazing 3D printer. Really cheap, easy modding. If you have issues with the adhesion, use the 3DLAC spray. Btw, you can calibrate the printer with a bigger paper lol.
If you're having adhesion issues with PLA, either your bed is dirty, damaged or not levelled. Prints on my stock E3V2 bed stick like $%!& to a blanket until the bed cools off, no need for sprays, glue, etc. Also, don't use rubbing alcohol on the carborundum side of the glass, it will ruin it over time.
@@fenrir7969 Oh yea, my PLA printing was fine aswell. I had only issues with Prusa PETG. I use rarely the 3DLAC. I dont mind the glass, it's not that extremely pricey luckily. But thanks for the tips, i do appreciate it.
You can get your prints to come out smoothly by using the "cold" MEK method. There are many videos on how to use this method to get a smooth product. The end result may not be as good as manufactured plastics but you can get close then you can use bondo to finish up to get the results you like. Many times I was pleased with how the product turned out after the cold MEK method that I didn't need to use any bondo. Just paint and have fun.
Didn't want to crap on the newer tazbots but they've always been behind creality from my experience. Given the usual time for tuning for your filament the ender will always beat the taz from what I've seen. I was concerned you'd be negative of printing because of the taz but the ender is a much better setup. If you ever switch to PTEG and have adhesion issues try flipping the textured bed. The pure glass works better for that filament on my ender 5 pro