Note: The knurl wheels in the video are one of two very cheap Chinese extra sets of differing patterns I bought off the net. They work well. This is the most coarse pattern. Easily swapped over and very durable. Cheers Rob
Hi Alan. The pincer action certainly put less load on the lathe when knurling hard metal. For softer metals like aluminium plunge tools work quite OK. I noticed there were no videos on this aspect and thought it needed airing ;) Cheers Rob
I have used this trick quite a few times where the job is slightly larger than the clamping range of the knurl. Very rare to do jobs as large as in the video - but it shows it can easily be done. Cheers Rob
Hi Wayne. Yes, it's a very good tool. I got mine from the UK. I also use some different pattern cheap Chinese knurl wheels in it with great success. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, great demo. I have the same knurling tool. A while back I was given an Index knurler that fits in the tailstock. The work is pushed between the two knurling wheels. You are limited on the diameter of material, but it produces an amazing knurl. I did a video on using it. All the best Rob. Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby. I saw that video. I remember it was a bit tricky to adjust, but worked well. Gotta have a knurl of some type as they are so useful and great for decorative finishes. I bought two extra sets of Chinese knurl wheels including the set in the demo and they work fine. Gives three patterns basically. Cheers Rob
Yes. Knurling always produces rough edges. I would normally just break edges like this on the linisher, but you could use a HSS turning tool of whatever profile you like, wherever you like. Cheers Rob
I have the pinch type, never thought of this to be honest, I've only ever used it a couple of times period. Why do you state fast feed when moving the carriage towards the chuck, I assumed that slow would have been the way to go??
The carriage speed must be fast enough that the rollers don't over impress and destroy the pattern. Basically the speed must relate to the distance between the pattern sections of the rollers. Too slow and the pattern will be all chewed up or poorly formed. Try it on some scrap and see. I did demonstrate this in a very early video. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks Rob, I'm guessing that you only get one crack at it too? You can't then move the carriage back to the tail stock end for another deeper cut? Knowing how tight you can clamp down in the first place, how's a novice meant to know??
You can go over your first pass again provided you gently feed the knurl in without carriage travel. Once the knurl finds/aligns with the first pass pattern you can then engage carriage travel. I occasionally do this if the metal is harder than expected or I want a deeper impression. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks, that makes sense,, so are you really trying to cut the rest of the length at full depth in one pass? I suppose that the deepest of cut that you can ever make with a knurling tool is microns anyhow? Compared to turning or facing a part, where you shave a tiny amount off on each pass.
I would normally cut the full depth in one pass. Obviously the amount of pressure required will be determined/vary by metal hardness. For clean edges on the knurl I always knurl that section before finishing the job (where possible). That way you can later machine to the edges of the knurled section and make a neat job of it. You just have to plan ahead as you near job completion. Knurling should never be the last machining function if you want a professional looking result.. Cheers Rob
Note: The knurl wheels in the video are one of two very cheap Chinese extra sets of differing patterns I bought off the net. They work well. This is the most coarse pattern. Easily swapped over and very durable. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob. I've used a pinch knurl for many years now but never considered using it that way. Great idea 👍👍👍 Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan. The pincer action certainly put less load on the lathe when knurling hard metal. For softer metals like aluminium plunge tools work quite OK. I noticed there were no videos on this aspect and thought it needed airing ;) Cheers Rob
I never needed to knurl a big diameter,but indeed, this is a good idea.
I have used this trick quite a few times where the job is slightly larger than the clamping range of the knurl. Very rare to do jobs as large as in the video - but it shows it can easily be done. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, these are a great knurler I have one and it does a great job every time almost a perfect diamond patten. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi Wayne. Yes, it's a very good tool. I got mine from the UK. I also use some different pattern cheap Chinese knurl wheels in it with great success. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob. A sweet and simple tip. Why didn’t I think of it 🥴🥺
Hi Andrew. I think the whole clamping action thing blinds people as to what it basically is. Cheers Rob
That made a very nice looking knurl 👍
It's a good tool.
@@Xynudu Sure is.
👍👍😎👍👍
Hi Rob, great demo. I have the same knurling tool. A while back I was given an Index knurler that fits in the tailstock. The work is pushed between the two knurling wheels. You are limited on the diameter of material, but it produces an amazing knurl. I did a video on using it. All the best Rob. Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby. I saw that video. I remember it was a bit tricky to adjust, but worked well. Gotta have a knurl of some type as they are so useful and great for decorative finishes. I bought two extra sets of Chinese knurl wheels including the set in the demo and they work fine. Gives three patterns basically. Cheers Rob
Interesting. Very nice work
It comes in handy at times. Flies under the radar with most people. Cheers Rob
Hey Rob hope you're well and keeping hydrated
Thanks Nicholas. I'm trying to stay out of trouble ;) Been working on the house lately, so YT time has been limited. Cheers Rob
Last operation, chamfer ends ?
Yes. Knurling always produces rough edges. I would normally just break edges like this on the linisher, but you could use a HSS turning tool of whatever profile you like, wherever you like. Cheers Rob
I have the pinch type, never thought of this to be honest, I've only ever used it a couple of times period. Why do you state fast feed when moving the carriage towards the chuck, I assumed that slow would have been the way to go??
The carriage speed must be fast enough that the rollers don't over impress and destroy the pattern. Basically the speed must relate to the distance between the pattern sections of the rollers. Too slow and the pattern will be all chewed up or poorly formed. Try it on some scrap and see. I did demonstrate this in a very early video. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks Rob, I'm guessing that you only get one crack at it too? You can't then move the carriage back to the tail stock end for another deeper cut? Knowing how tight you can clamp down in the first place, how's a novice meant to know??
You can go over your first pass again provided you gently feed the knurl in without carriage travel. Once the knurl finds/aligns with the first pass pattern you can then engage carriage travel. I occasionally do this if the metal is harder than expected or I want a deeper impression. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks, that makes sense,, so are you really trying to cut the rest of the length at full depth in one pass? I suppose that the deepest of cut that you can ever make with a knurling tool is microns anyhow? Compared to turning or facing a part, where you shave a tiny amount off on each pass.
I would normally cut the full depth in one pass. Obviously the amount of pressure required will be determined/vary by metal hardness. For clean edges on the knurl I always knurl that section before finishing the job (where possible). That way you can later machine to the edges of the knurled section and make a neat job of it. You just have to plan ahead as you near job completion. Knurling should never be the last machining function if you want a professional looking result.. Cheers Rob
I love mine Rob.. I had push style and never like them. Still have a push style but it's far back in the tool box
Hi Shawn. The pincer type work well, especially with deep impressions into hard metal. Cheers Rob