I used to have a Martin turret lathe. It featured a lever that indexed the tool carousel to the next position with each pull and adjustable stops for each tool to set depth of cut. It was very handy for quickly making a few thousand parts. It was great technology back in the day, but it was replaced by a CNC lathe.
Oh oh ! You said slot drill !!!! That's gonna fry some North American neurons! More than ten years of watching YT I was wondering if I'd just imagined that was the proper name for a two flute milling cutter ! Good on you for using that important nomenclature. Many moons ago I used to work on a Ward 7 Capstan turret lathe that had a flat capstan -your idea is excellent and reminds me of a clever use of a 4th axis+ a tombstone on a CNC mill used to machine more facets than would otherwise be accessible . Love the old lathes but you really deserve a newer one ..... if you can, bigger really really is better !
I’ve always known them as slot drills. I think that is the general term used in the UK at least! The Myford lathe is very user friendly but is not massively rigid and lacks grunt for heavier machining.
I have a "store bought" one of these turrets and also used drill chucks for awhile. I just did not like the stick out so I made some tool holders using ER 20 collets which reduced the stick out a lot.
The tang on the end of a morse taper is not used to drive it. It's there to enable the drill or reamer to be removed from a drill press or similar machine. I see yours is tapped for a draw bar. I would make a threaded button to fit in it so that the ejector in the tailstock does not damage the end too much. Excellent video.
Hallo ! I have a chinese lathe and i got for it such a turret as you show in the video. I'm from Italy, i just in time got it at a reasonabile price from an English company, just before Brexit: after that expenses would be more and more higher ... This turret - smaller than your one - make any work very very fast, specially when - sometime - you have to make ripetitive items with multiple operation ... A very usefull tool, even for an hobbist, as i am ...
@@MetalMachineShop yes, exactly, it cost me about 90 euro, if i'm not wrong ... It is equipped with a morse cone mk2, just for my tailstock. It helps very much, i had to make a sort of box ( 2 pieces indeed ) with 4 legs each ( 8 in total ). Each leg should be bored and then threaded ... 16 terminals in total ... Luckely i've had this fantastic tool ... Mine has not mandrels, i use 16 mm steel round bars to grip the tools ( i lathe that round pieces on my need, and then they last for ever ... )
چقدر با ارزشه ❤ آفرین ، متاسفانه علم و هنرهای فردی جای خودشو داده به ماشینهای هوشمند و افراد بیفکر . الان کارهای ما رو ماشینها انجام میدن چون نیاز ندارن کابرهاشون فکر کنن . عالی بود ❤❤❤
Mighti suggest making drill holders made similar but scaled down to those used on screw machines..index..Acme...those float to center the tool and then lock in place two bolts and tool held by bushing
It’s not and it doesn’t have to be as the active tool on the turret is always aligned with the tailstock axis so the MT/turret can be swivelled to any convenient position.
Dear Mr., hats off. Remarkable accessory, indeed. My only question is (maybe shared for some other viewers) would be, how do you ensure a proper alignment of the tools with the part? I don't have experience with lathes, apologies if this is a silly question.
Very nicely done,.. A ramp on the detent hole would allow rotation in one direction without the need to pull the plunger similar to a 4 position tool post.
You could have just used er collet holders with straight shanks. Those are very good and easy to use better than the drill Chucks also low profile. Also you could use straight shank reamers instead of boring, gives better and repeated result. Very nice build for a small lathe. ❤🥳
Good idea with the collets, I didn’t think of that. Probably quite an expensive solution though? Agreed re. reamers; it’s a case of making best use of the tools available sometimes.
@@MetalMachineShop gamble with cheap and chinese. i imagine a bad collet still has less runout and greater rigidity than an average jacobs. not that i know just a guess.
If you reduce the exposure a bit when recording your videos will look a bit less blown out, you can adjust for under-exposure, but over-exposure blows the image out irreversably, and it's super easy to over-expose with reflective metal surfaces under bright lighting conditions
Yes you are right, I need to get the user manual out for my camera as I have been struggling with this. Some of the clips are overexposed, it’s annoying!
Nice Job and I would say good video subject as not to many would have seen one of these in a modern shop. I have made one of these myself as an apprentice project a very long time ago. Mine was slightly different as I chose to use a mount that put it on the tool post and not the Tailstock. To lazy to wind the drills in just power feed. I would ask a question however, What are you using to locate the turret radially in the tail stock quill? I noticed the morse taper didn't have a tang on the end. It's a bit important as without radial location getting it on center each fitment would be a bit of a pain?
It’s a good question but actually the taper, active tool, tailstock axis and headstock are all in perfect alignment so the rotational position of the turret on the tailstock does not affect the alignment of the active tool to the work.
Fascinating piece of work. My only question: with a Morse taper fitting into the tailstock, what guarantees the alignment of the tool in the exact same place, every time? All I can see is the MT going in the whole and landing wherever it happens to land, so I hope I'm missing something.
As the tool holes are bored from the headstock, the tool axis is in line with the headstock and tailstock, so the rotational position of the Morse taper in the tailstock does not affect the axial alignment of the active tool.
Hai sir good plan and so think casting meterial Drill chak six side in 45digrey and 45 digrey Hols meching Driall chak Lowver Small skills and experience people problems within your company so good sir like in video
Excellent video, very interesting. Have you seen any issues with additional runout when using this instead of the standard tail stock? Your build seems very well made I’m just curious if any minor error ir tolerancing in each step propgates through to the end. Very cool video, seems like a huge timesaver.
Nice trick using the lathe to drill the tooling holes. I was wondering how you'd get those aligned accurately. Was that grease or anti-seize you put on the threads?
Great job . The morse taper angled piece should be located onto the rotating disc housing with 2 dowels . Csk screws are okay for location but because youve bored each turret position in situ if you ever strip it down you are relying on screwthreads and csk screws to put it back into the correct orientation. If i dowels were used theres no alignment issues and if you ever have to strip it down it will always go back in the same place . Just a thought ,nice job 👍
I am following the argument that the MT 3 taper (in my book) would need some sort of locating mechanism, and at 2.05 you show the 45 deg block, scribed with a 45 deg line which becomes your centre line, at 2.50 you show the assembly, but can you describe the centre line of the MT3 to the centre of the 45 deg block and THEN its centre relative to the backing plate which would allow the MT3 to be in "any rotational position and still concentric", please. if they are not concentric then as the MT3 is rotated the assembly would describe an arc around but not concentric to the centre line you achieved. Would you be prepared to share the plans of that part so I can get my head around that aspect please. T I A A very handy tool and you could have several top pieces for a variety of different sized stubby tool holders
The holes for the tool holders are bored from the lathe headstock after making the other parts, including the detent holes. As the headstock and tailstock axes are aligned, the tool holes in the turret end up so that the active tool is in perfect alignment with the Morse Taper, therefore the rotational position of the turret does not affect the position of the active tool.
Trying to wrap my head around this as well. If the assembly is removed from the tailstock, how is repeatability maintained? Does the clocking position of the turret tool taper into the tailstock taper affect the alignment of the detent positions? If not clocked exactly how it was drilled during build, can’t there be some error? It would seem to me one of the tools would have to be indicated to the lowest position so it’s at the bottom of the radius. What am I missing? This is a nice build, just trying to understand it.
He’s not understanding what you’re asking but I have the same exact question. How do you index the MT3 in the tailstock? Or, how do you make sure the MT3 shank on the turret goes into the same position in the tailstock taper? Morse tapers aren’t indexed so it could land anywhere. This has been my question from the beginning (and arguably the most difficult part) yet he continually ignores it or doesn’t understand what people are asking. It’s quite frustrating.
@@brianmihlfeith7135 sorry I’m being so frustrating, I’m either misunderstanding the question or my answers are not being understood. Because of the machining sequence, with the tool holes being bored from the headstock once all the other parts are made, including the detent that returns the turret to the same six positions, the alignment of the active cutting tool is not affected no matter what rotational position the Morse taper ends up in the tailstock. It’s just like a normal drill chuck in that respect.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. A question - How do you ensure the MT is located correctly and not turned as it does not have a tang or anything locating it in the same position every time?
It doesn’t have to be located in any particular rotational position as the active tool is coaxial with the tailstock spindle so its position is not affected,
Nice job. I'd be bothered by having the clamping handle in the middle of all those pointy tools. I think it might be possible to design it with the clamping lever underneath the turret by making the axle one part with the turret and drilling right through the baseplate. Next, add a rack and pinion drive outboard on your tailstock, turning it into a horizontal quill.
That’s a good idea, it would theoretically be possible to add a locking lever on the back similar to a tailstock clamp. A lever feed tailstock would be a good enhancement.
The drills are not always perfectly straight so there can be a bit of movement when they engage. Also there is a bit of rotational play in the tailstock which you may have seen.
Only thing I can think of is to have the Morse taper have the rectangle drive dog on the end to make sure that the entire turret doesn’t spin in the tailstock
Hi there, brilliant tool youve made. Am i right in thinking that this tool would only work with your Lathe due to the chuck and tailstock alignment? Im getting into metalwork again after about 22 years so im trying to absorb as much information as possible before i buy myself an old lathe to learn and practice on. Thanks in advance and subscribed :)
fantastic work 😁👍👌 I am having a Hard time wrapping my head around the .... mt alignment questions below ... 🙃 I just don't get how it doesnt matter 🤣 maybe it's too early in the morning lol
I’ve been working up a Mk II version design but as haven’t had the time to make too much progress. Hoping to get back to it at some point. The first one was ok as a prototype but not really usable as a practical machine.
I imagine an automatic tool changer would be better tho more expensive. Also, tool clearance and work depth suffer greatly with this configuration, the same as rigidity.
There was a bit of flex when boring the holes, but there is no measurable slop in the tailstock, except for some rotational slack, which is of no consequence to accuracy.
it is pointless in this setup with regular tailstock, you NEED the sliding one to have any good use out of this setup, because you lose everything cranking the thing, and you have no depth stop and no fast retrack, can of course use it without locking the tailstock for some operations, but overall it is pretty pointless so - do yourself a favor and make one if you can't find one from another lathe and adopt it, its dead simple since no high accuracy is required, good to have the accuracy, but not strictly necessary
@@MetalMachineShop it is marginal at best, understand that I'm not criticizing your craftsmanship, just that they figured this stuff out many decades ago, hence why it has its own slide I don't have one, since I'm not making hundreds or thousands of same on manual, but what I did though was make all my morse shank ends same length for the HLV-H, I didn't buy them all at same time, so they were a mishmash, same length means they bump out at the same position on quill, saves a little bit of time and most common tools have their dedicated chuks/holders, then 3-4 chucks empty ready to go, that is all thats necessary I also have Casaneuve HBX360 with the quick quill tailstock, that might benefit from something like this because the quill travel is much longer than on normal TS, and it is fast, but still, no point really because the real "capstan slide" will have built in tool change on the back motion they pop up sometimes on industrial auctions or ebay, if I really needed the speed out of manual, that would be the only way to go
"imagine having to make a hundred or a thousand of these parts" Well 99.9% of people ARE NOT going to be making 1000 or even 100 of any part. So people, instead of going through numerous hours, effort, and work, just keep your tools on a magnetic tray that can be put on your lathe at a convenient location
That's fantastic work!! Sometimes genius is born from necessity, and you certainly proved that here.
Thanks, although I can't claim it's my original Idea!
I used to have a Martin turret lathe. It featured a lever that indexed the tool carousel to the next position with each pull and adjustable stops for each tool to set depth of cut. It was very handy for quickly making a few thousand parts. It was great technology back in the day, but it was replaced by a CNC lathe.
Superbe réalisation
It was great fun watching that! Brilliant stuff.
Oh oh ! You said slot drill !!!! That's gonna fry some North American neurons! More than ten years of watching YT I was wondering if I'd just imagined that was the proper name for a two flute milling cutter ! Good on you for using that important nomenclature. Many moons ago I used to work on a Ward 7 Capstan turret lathe that had a flat capstan -your idea is excellent and reminds me of a clever use of a 4th axis+ a tombstone on a CNC mill used to machine more facets than would otherwise be accessible . Love the old lathes but you really deserve a newer one ..... if you can, bigger really really is better !
I’ve always known them as slot drills. I think that is the general term used in the UK at least! The Myford lathe is very user friendly but is not massively rigid and lacks grunt for heavier machining.
I have a "store bought" one of these turrets and also used drill chucks for awhile. I just did not like the stick out so I made some tool holders using ER 20 collets which reduced the stick out a lot.
Nice job, it's a very handy tool to have in hand for speedup the rapid machining
Impressive I really enjoyed the video. You did an excellent job video, editing and narrating.
Thanks!
What a great Idea! It makes perfect sense, but *you* figured it out.
Clever clever man! Love the approach
It’s not my original idea, but it works well!
This is beautiful. I would buy this in a heartbeat.
Very nice and clean design
Very clever, and well done. You turned your lathe into a Burgmaster of sorts.
The tang on the end of a morse taper is not used to drive it. It's there to enable the drill or reamer to be removed from a drill press or similar machine.
I see yours is tapped for a draw bar. I would make a threaded button to fit in it so that the ejector in the tailstock does not damage the end too much.
Excellent video.
Good idea
Nice job on a rare homemade tool build. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum last week 😎
Thanks!
Very nice. I really enjoyed seeing your creative snd resourceful use of the machine and tooking you have
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hallo ! I have a chinese lathe and i got for it such a turret as you show in the video.
I'm from Italy, i just in time got it at a reasonabile price from an English company, just before Brexit: after that expenses would be more and more higher ...
This turret - smaller than your one - make any work very very fast, specially when - sometime - you have to make ripetitive items with multiple operation ...
A very usefull tool, even for an hobbist, as i am ...
Was it from Arc Euro Trade? They do a similar item.
@@MetalMachineShop yes, exactly, it cost me about 90 euro, if i'm not wrong ...
It is equipped with a morse cone mk2, just for my tailstock. It helps very much, i had to make a sort of box ( 2 pieces indeed ) with 4 legs each ( 8 in total ). Each leg should be bored and then threaded ... 16 terminals in total ... Luckely i've had this fantastic tool ...
Mine has not mandrels, i use 16 mm steel round bars to grip the tools ( i lathe that round pieces on my need, and then they last for ever ... )
@@James-to7pi why dangerous?
@@alessandroandrenacci2372RDG TOOLS sell a four way tailstock turret for £79 🙂 arceurotrade sell a six way one for £64.
چقدر با ارزشه ❤
آفرین ،
متاسفانه علم و هنرهای فردی جای خودشو داده به ماشینهای هوشمند و افراد بیفکر .
الان کارهای ما رو ماشینها انجام میدن چون نیاز ندارن کابرهاشون فکر کنن .
عالی بود ❤❤❤
Thanks! Yes you are right automatic machines do take the skill out of it! Different sort of skill anyway.
Mighti suggest making drill holders made similar but scaled down to those used on screw machines..index..Acme...those float to center the tool and then lock in place two bolts and tool held by bushing
This kind of tool turret has only been seen on large lathes. It is very practical and well made. It would be great if there is a plan released.
I will see if I can make the plan available.
Very well done.
This is a wonderful build.
Thanks!
Outstanding.
Hats off to you sir!
Hello,
An enjoyable video, thank you... the tailstock turret is a great addition to your Myford.
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks, yes it is a useful addition!
Wow awesome creation.
Awesome! How is the MT indexed in the tailstock to assure alignment?
It’s not and it doesn’t have to be as the active tool on the turret is always aligned with the tailstock axis so the MT/turret can be swivelled to any convenient position.
Whoa!!!1 Not gonna lie, I would have loved to have this on my tailstock in the shop
That's badass!
Awesome job!
Great video. gives me some good ideas. 👍
Glad to hear it!
Dear Mr., hats off. Remarkable accessory, indeed. My only question is (maybe shared for some other viewers) would be, how do you ensure a proper alignment of the tools with the part? I don't have experience with lathes, apologies if this is a silly question.
Lots of people are asking this question, check out some of the other answers!
Love it! Inspired, thanks.
Thank you!
Very nicely done,.. A ramp on the detent hole would allow rotation in one direction without the need to pull the plunger similar to a 4 position tool post.
It would be easier to use if the plunger could be pressed in to function. That could require a rocker shaft to change direction
best of the best‼️
I feel like an apprentice again 😂
I really want to learn from you sir
I still have lots to learn! Very few things seem to go right first time.
You could have just used er collet holders with straight shanks.
Those are very good and easy to use better than the drill Chucks also low profile.
Also you could use straight shank reamers instead of boring, gives better and repeated result.
Very nice build for a small lathe. ❤🥳
Good idea with the collets, I didn’t think of that. Probably quite an expensive solution though? Agreed re. reamers; it’s a case of making best use of the tools available sometimes.
@@MetalMachineShop gamble with cheap and chinese. i imagine a bad collet still has less runout and greater rigidity than an average jacobs. not that i know just a guess.
@@cho4d Rigidity probably, runout? Wouldn't gamble. At least step up to Taiwanese.
@@cho4d I suspect you are right.
That is ..... genius!
If you reduce the exposure a bit when recording your videos will look a bit less blown out, you can adjust for under-exposure, but over-exposure blows the image out irreversably, and it's super easy to over-expose with reflective metal surfaces under bright lighting conditions
Yes you are right, I need to get the user manual out for my camera as I have been struggling with this. Some of the clips are overexposed, it’s annoying!
Nice Job and I would say good video subject as not to many would have seen one of these in a modern shop.
I have made one of these myself as an apprentice project a very long time ago. Mine was slightly different as I chose to use a mount that put it on the tool post and not the Tailstock. To lazy to wind the drills in just power feed.
I would ask a question however, What are you using to locate the turret radially in the tail stock quill? I noticed the morse taper didn't have a tang on the end. It's a bit important as without radial location getting it on center each fitment would be a bit of a pain?
dazaspc - What a great idea mounting it to the tool post.
It’s a good question but actually the taper, active tool, tailstock axis and headstock are all in perfect alignment so the rotational position of the turret on the tailstock does not affect the alignment of the active tool to the work.
@@MetalMachineShop Of course as the mount holes were put in via the spindle.
Fascinating piece of work. My only question: with a Morse taper fitting into the tailstock, what guarantees the alignment of the tool in the exact same place, every time? All I can see is the MT going in the whole and landing wherever it happens to land, so I hope I'm missing something.
As the tool holes are bored from the headstock, the tool axis is in line with the headstock and tailstock, so the rotational position of the Morse taper in the tailstock does not affect the axial alignment of the active tool.
Hai sir good plan and so think casting meterial Drill chak six side in 45digrey and 45 digrey Hols meching Driall chak Lowver Small skills and experience people problems within your company so good sir like in video
If that isn’t pure craftsmanship then I don’t know what is
Super! Bravissimo! Master
Extraordinario
Very nice work, just subscribed.
All the best, Neil
Thanks!
Joli travail bravo et merci pour le partage
Excellent video, very interesting. Have you seen any issues with additional runout when using this instead of the standard tail stock? Your build seems very well made I’m just curious if any minor error ir tolerancing in each step propgates through to the end. Very cool video, seems like a huge timesaver.
It’s not a problem as the holes for the chucks are drilled through from the lathe headstock a the last operation, ensuring good alignment.
lovely! you could use a tapered detente & pin to guarantee a perfect fit?
Nice trick using the lathe to drill the tooling holes. I was wondering how you'd get those aligned accurately. Was that grease or anti-seize you put on the threads?
It was copper grease. Not sure if it's the best thing to use but seems to do the job.
I would love to do this stuff, but it looks like a ton of work
Work is rewarding and good for the soul.
A great idea. Thank you for posting it.
That is Epic
Great job .
The morse taper angled piece should be located onto the rotating disc housing with 2 dowels .
Csk screws are okay for location but because youve bored each turret position in situ if you ever strip it down you are relying on screwthreads and csk screws to put it back into the correct orientation.
If i dowels were used theres no alignment issues and if you ever have to strip it down it will always go back in the same place .
Just a thought ,nice job 👍
Yes you are right, in fact I did fit some dowels partway through, but this bit ended up on the cutting room floor!
@@MetalMachineShop looks mint 👍as an apprentice I used to set capstan lathes , really versatile machines
Very good 👍
I am following the argument that the MT 3 taper (in my book) would need some sort of locating mechanism, and at 2.05 you show the 45 deg block, scribed with a 45 deg line which becomes your centre line, at 2.50 you show the assembly, but can you describe the centre line of the MT3 to the centre of the 45 deg block and THEN its centre relative to the backing plate which would allow the MT3 to be in "any rotational position and still concentric", please. if they are not concentric then as the MT3 is rotated the assembly would describe an arc around but not concentric to the centre line you achieved. Would you be prepared to share the plans of that part so I can get my head around that aspect please. T I A
A very handy tool and you could have several top pieces for a variety of different sized stubby tool holders
The holes for the tool holders are bored from the lathe headstock after making the other parts, including the detent holes. As the headstock and tailstock axes are aligned, the tool holes in the turret end up so that the active tool is in perfect alignment with the Morse Taper, therefore the rotational position of the turret does not affect the position of the active tool.
Trying to wrap my head around this as well. If the assembly is removed from the tailstock, how is repeatability maintained? Does the clocking position of the turret tool taper into the tailstock taper affect the alignment of the detent positions? If not clocked exactly how it was drilled during build, can’t there be some error? It would seem to me one of the tools would have to be indicated to the lowest position so it’s at the bottom of the radius. What am I missing? This is a nice build, just trying to understand it.
He’s not understanding what you’re asking but I have the same exact question.
How do you index the MT3 in the tailstock? Or, how do you make sure the MT3 shank on the turret goes into the same position in the tailstock taper? Morse tapers aren’t indexed so it could land anywhere.
This has been my question from the beginning (and arguably the most difficult part) yet he continually ignores it or doesn’t understand what people are asking.
It’s quite frustrating.
@@brianmihlfeith7135 sorry I’m being so frustrating, I’m either misunderstanding the question or my answers are not being understood. Because of the machining sequence, with the tool holes being bored from the headstock once all the other parts are made, including the detent that returns the turret to the same six positions, the alignment of the active cutting tool is not affected no matter what rotational position the Morse taper ends up in the tailstock. It’s just like a normal drill chuck in that respect.
not mt 2
a great idea
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. A question - How do you ensure the MT is located correctly and not turned as it does not have a tang or anything locating it in the same position every time?
It doesn’t have to be located in any particular rotational position as the active tool is coaxial with the tailstock spindle so its position is not affected,
Nice job.
I'd be bothered by having the clamping handle in the middle of all those pointy tools. I think it might be possible to design it with the clamping lever underneath the turret by making the axle one part with the turret and drilling right through the baseplate.
Next, add a rack and pinion drive outboard on your tailstock, turning it into a horizontal quill.
That’s a good idea, it would theoretically be possible to add a locking lever on the back similar to a tailstock clamp. A lever feed tailstock would be a good enhancement.
I'm a bit out of my depth here but it seems like there's a good amount of movement when it first engages.
The drills are not always perfectly straight so there can be a bit of movement when they engage. Also there is a bit of rotational play in the tailstock which you may have seen.
fantastic!
Only thing I can think of is to have the Morse taper have the rectangle drive dog on the end to make sure that the entire turret doesn’t spin in the tailstock
Good idea, I agree.
SOOO COOOL AMAZING 🤩🤩🤩🤩 TANKS
Exllent ur talant is so good
Thanks!
Beautiful vedio
Muito bom genial
Estimado señor que buen video hubiera sido mucho mejor si adjuntaste los planos del bello dispositivo.
Thanks! The plans are a trade secret, but maybe I will make them available!
❤yes
Great work! Where did you find those stub arbors you put on it?
I got them from Arc Euro Trade in the uk. Online order.
Hi there, brilliant tool youve made. Am i right in thinking that this tool would only work with your Lathe due to the chuck and tailstock alignment? Im getting into metalwork again after about 22 years so im trying to absorb as much information as possible before i buy myself an old lathe to learn and practice on. Thanks in advance and subscribed :)
it would work in any lathe with a compatible tailstock taper as everything is aligned with the lathe spindle axis.
@MetalMachineShop,
Excellent video and an amazing build.
My question, would you be will to sell the drawings for this attachment?
the drawings need a bit of tidying up, but in principle, yes.
Cool. Let me know when ready so we can discuss further regarding payment etc.
👍👍👍
Для метчиков 3-х кулачковый патрон не лучший держатель а так твоя идея очень хорошая!
Yes, you are right, it’s not ideal for taps but does work.
You don’t need to drill a pilot hole then drill tapping size literally just drill straight to tapping size
Yes you are probably right. I sometimes find drills drill oversize unless you creep up on it with progressively larger drills.
fantastic work 😁👍👌
I am having a Hard time wrapping my head around the .... mt alignment questions below ... 🙃 I just don't get how it doesnt matter 🤣 maybe it's too early in the morning lol
Just think of it as a normal tailstock chuck; it can be rotated without affecting the alignment.
Nicely done. Any chance of print sales for this?
I’ll see if I can make the plans available.
thank you for sharig this video. ı want to make this turret , would you please send the part drawings for it , thanks🙂
I don’t have suitable drawings available just yet unfortunately.
How did you attach the No. 2 MT to the chunky metal bracket?
it screws into a threaded hole in the bracket and the nose of the taper was also threaded.
why did u stop tilting trike?
I’ve been working up a Mk II version design but as haven’t had the time to make too much progress. Hoping to get back to it at some point. The first one was ok as a prototype but not really usable as a practical machine.
How do you go about clocking the turret in the Morris taper tail stock? Or does it not matter since the selected tool is on center line?
Hi, it does not matter, for the reason you have stated!
I imagine an automatic tool changer would be better tho more expensive. Also, tool clearance and work depth suffer greatly with this configuration, the same as rigidity.
Hugely more expensive!
Мені одному здається, що різьби не повні?
Всё равно он вращается по центру!
It looks like there is .050 of slop in the tail stock body. YIKES......
There was a bit of flex when boring the holes, but there is no measurable slop in the tailstock, except for some rotational slack, which is of no consequence to accuracy.
hat je niet beter een pistool draaibank kunne kopen !!!!!😄👍
Project
it is pointless in this setup with regular tailstock, you NEED the sliding one to have any good use out of this setup, because you lose everything cranking the thing, and you have no depth stop and no fast retrack, can of course use it without locking the tailstock for some operations, but overall it is pretty pointless
so - do yourself a favor and make one if you can't find one from another lathe and adopt it, its dead simple since no high accuracy is required, good to have the accuracy, but not strictly necessary
It would be better to have the lever feed and depth stops, but the turret is an improvement over continuous tool changes at least.
@@MetalMachineShop it is marginal at best, understand that I'm not criticizing your craftsmanship, just that they figured this stuff out many decades ago, hence why it has its own slide
I don't have one, since I'm not making hundreds or thousands of same on manual, but what I did though was make all my morse shank ends same length for the HLV-H, I didn't buy them all at same time, so they were a mishmash, same length means they bump out at the same position on quill, saves a little bit of time
and most common tools have their dedicated chuks/holders, then 3-4 chucks empty ready to go, that is all thats necessary
I also have Casaneuve HBX360 with the quick quill tailstock, that might benefit from something like this because the quill travel is much longer than on normal TS, and it is fast, but still, no point really because the real "capstan slide" will have built in tool change on the back motion
they pop up sometimes on industrial auctions or ebay, if I really needed the speed out of manual, that would be the only way to go
"imagine having to make a hundred or a thousand of these parts" Well 99.9% of people ARE NOT going to be making 1000 or even 100 of any part. So people, instead of going through numerous hours, effort, and work, just keep your tools on a magnetic tray that can be put on your lathe at a convenient location
v v v olde tipe
useless... you can change chucks that fast
You can’t be serious…
@@strykerjones8842 i am
Clever stuff but have to question the safety aspect of things sticking up in the air. No thanks
Enco made one decades ago many have used them there's also others made similar to that used turrent lathe..for south bend and atlas lathes
Way too very precise for me...
@inheritanceMachining