I've heard of then and spoken to people that use them, but can't comment on them since I have no experience with BD. They do sound like they know what they're doing. Having said that, you may be able to accomplish the same thing by purchasing heavy duty clutches and components and doing the rebuild yourself, if you're up to it and know what to do. I was rebuilding my own trans at age 16 without any experience whatsoever and managed to do it. SO go for it...Thanks for posting.
All is well in dodge land,Erased codes and reset memory and nothing,no up shift,replaced the replacment solenoid and all is well,bad parts can really keep you humble,Thanks for responding.
Yes, most YM 2000 and up are dealer tool dependent. Having said that, lots of Aftermarket scanners also have this capability now. By the way, resurfacing a trans valve body isn't easy. Most shops just replace the whole thing with a new one at a higher cost to you of course. If warped you'll need to resurface the valve body on a milling machine or the old fashioned way, use a 2'X4' mirror and glue sandpaper to it then run the VB to resurface. Old trick I learned a while back. Good luck.
Wow, the new solenoid was also defective... Yes, I've seen it before, but it's a bummer. That's why it pays to buy OEM solenoids, they may also fail (when new) but it's rare. That's for posting back my friend...Good for you.
CONTINUED FROM 1: Check fluid level and quality, add if needed, don't replace fluid, a burnt clutch pack, stripped overdrive clutch hub, worn accumulators, worn valving especially the actuator feed limit valve, and just high mileage can all cause this code. Basically, the ECM is seeing a long engagement or like I said a slipping. Again, check fluid level and add if needed. Post back with more and let us know what happens...Thanks for posting.
ADPTraining I have a 99 Chevy Silverado, I had a small accidents that damage my radiators and cooling systems, after the repairs where done my truck drove about 100 miles fine and then start losing pressure transmission would go over 50 took it back to the mechanic "Said need it a flush " after that was done I drove it again another 30 miles and then transmission wouldn't engage at all , called him back and said transmission was bad , I waited 40 minutes for the wreck truck and while waiting I decided to tried to move it to get out of the way, to my surprise transmission worked just fine for another 5 miles till oil gets hot , and is been like that , any suggestions? Thank you.
That's usually what happens. The issue is either the PCS, which controls the pressure or an issue with the valve body. Sometimes, one of the valves has to be honed it due to damage. Once a shop open the trans, they'll want to do a rebuilt, due to liability issues and you coming back afterwards with another trans issue. If you're planning on doing the work yourself, then fine. How many miles on you car?
I agree, modern consumers should get educated and learn as much about the system as possible. Yes, often times a $100 part is all you need. But, there are good repair shops out there. It is also a risky situation. If you do replace the PCS and the transmission goes a few months later, the shop gets blamed. Any court of law will fault the repair shop first, regardless of what they did. Education and knowledge are the consumer's best choice...Thanks for posting...
@surfmusicjamweedgirl OK, use this rationale: If when dismantling the Trans oil pan you have access to the PCS, then don't change it (assuming it's ok). PCS units are the strongest of the all transmission solenoids. They have to be. But, if getting to it requires major disassembly, then replace it. 4L80Es are strong units, but you do have almost 300K, so tread carefully. Good luck...Mandy.
@PatinOmaha These PC sol. are tough units. If possible disable by removing fuse (if separate). The noise does seem a bit problematic. A faulty PC sol. would not cause a noise. Other possible fault areas are the TPS and VSS (vehicle speed sensor). The TPS is a main shift input to the TCM. VSS is the main speed input and also a main shift point determinator. Good luck to you. Mandy.
Chances are the trans is gone. Brown fluid is a sign of extreme transmission neglect. Do spend money doing a fluid change. If leaking, the pump gasket is probably gone and hence a PCS code, but code related to system not necessarily solenoid. If you've ever done a trans, then remove, disassemble pump and replace entire pump with gasket. Remember, you may end up doing all the work for nothing, since the rest of trans may also need repair. Shake is caused by friction slipping at the wet clutches.
Yes, it's possible. But also understand that if the PCS looses power or ground it stays fully open and delivers the maximum amount of pressure. So look into this area (POWER and GROUNDS). Hope that helps...
Oh wow, yes the trans has outlived itself many times over. Not that many transmissions last that long. There's no reason a car can't last forever, unless the chassis rusts out completely. Being that you're n school and on budget, I would suggest a used trans from the salvage yard, so long as the repair shop warranties it. It is not the way to go if you're keeping the car forever, but may work out even better than a total rebuilt. Good luck and thanks for posting.
@SunsetNap YES it can. The NSF tell the TCM which gear it should be on. There's a varying voltage that goes to the TCM (Trans Computer). It's not a simple on and off switch indicating Neutral and Park. On most systems the TCM then broadcasts the gear position via the vehicle network for the dash to show the shifter position.
I was asked to clarify my earlier comment. In the video it says many of these solenoids cannot be checked with an ohm meter. GM 4L60E will ohm at about 4.5 to 5 ohms. Of course you must have a good volt ohm meter or DVOM as we call them. Meaning digital volt ohm meter. Ford Motor Co. 4R100 or E4OD will also Ohm test in the same range as the GM solenoid. An ohm test will only confirm that the electrical part of the solenoid is good. A pressure test is required to test the mechanical part.
The issueis is there is no internal transmission fluid filter. The clutch material that wears gets into the pump, valve body, and converter, which is why you have the fault codes. Most of the time a trans needs rebuild. Acura extended the warranty on the transmission, which is included, contact Acura of America customer service. Look up Service Bulletin 02-027. Sorry for the bad news.
I appreciate your compliments. We also have two new channels: "GDI Gasoline Direct Injection" and "Automotive Relay Circuits Explained". They're both very instructive videos and free for all. Thanks for posting.
@Kintosol89 Hi, ok the Press. Cont. Sol. circuit low means gone to ground. You may not have a solenoid fault. This is how it works: A relay provides power feed. The ECM grounds the solenoid. If no power is seen at the other side of the relay, then you get a "Circuit Low" code. You need to pull out wiring diagram. Alldata information systems have DIY accounts for one car, one model only. Check it out. Probe and make sure you have power feed to the solenoids. Post back with more...
If a shift into any gear other than reverse and forward engagements takes longer than 0.65 seconds to complete, code P1811 will set. The ECM will then command maximum line pressure inside of the transmission, resulting in harsh shifting. ECM will also command the check engine light light to be illuminated when P1811 is set. Basically, the PCM is sensing a slip, and is increasing line pressure to maximum in order to prevent the transmission from hurting itself further. CONTINUED 1:
OK, the fact that the voltage starts at 3 and drops to 1 says that as the PCS gets hotter, resistance drops, hence 1 volts seen at the end. One volt is kind of high, meaning that there's excessive resistance at the PCS windings. Having said that, compare by measuring resistance, with solenoid hot. These units normally carry very low resistance. Or almost like a straight through wire. Your PCS doesn't seem shorted, which is more common.
I don't have to call anyone. All electrical circuits need current to operate. A current test using the clamp-on AMP probe will always give you the most definitive results. Forget Ford uses this, GM uses that...none of it maters. ALL CIRCUITS run on CURRENT flow. A resistance test is fine, but it's a static test. It'll pass when the component is cold, but fail when hot. It is the nature of all coil windings. You can research what I'm trying to tech you or take on faith value. Thanks again.
You can gain a lot of insight on the problem by referring to the OBD-2 code. These are either Circuit-Fault, or Mechanical in nature, also circuit low or high. Look up the exact definition for the code. Good luck.
Sure let me get that info out to you tomorrow..based on your advice here I checked the transmission fluid level and it was right at the line where it says to add oil. The car is a 2001 Aztek. the Code is 1810
Sounds like a linkage issue. Look into the shift lever to transmission linkage. If trans is defective it won't go int gear no matter what, even if you push it. Do some visual inspection on the shifter and post back with more.
I need to know which code was it exactly. There are a few codes for the PCS. Yes, you can replace the PCS. It is a solenoid and shops don't just replace it because if something else on the trans goes a few months after, they don't want to get blamed. Some dis assembly will be required on your part. Post back with more...Mandy...
Hello, well we have a few software products. I'll assume you're referring to the Scan-1. Try our site autodiagnosticsandpublishing or do a Google for Scan 1. If that's not what you're looking for let me know...
Thanks for the great video, but I would want to know that, if we can see the PCS as the Actuators of the automatic transmissions? They look like they have the same missions in the A/T.
The TCC has nothing to do with it. Any car can run without TCC. It's only active at higher speeds to lock the engine and transmission together, as in a regular clutch. See if you can manually shift to 3rd gear.
Depending on the year, but chances are yes. The NSS or trans-range switch is used by the ECM to compare to the gear pressure switches that tell the ECM the actual gear the trans is in. Did that made sense? Thanks for posting.
No, an Ohm test will not tell you if the part is good. Often times the shift solenoid fails when hot and it fails due to shorted windings. By and and large the best way to test a SS is by doing a current rampping test. This you do using a clamp-on AMP probe and scope.
You need the manual for component location or any other software. Otherwise pay a one time fee at Alldata for your specific car only, which is cheap and full of information.
CONTINUED from 1: 2nd, if press ok, prove your pressure sensor (refer to other videos here). 3rd, if sensor proves good then test your pressure control solenoid (again, refer to our other videos). Beware: in the event the PCS is faulty or with it disconnected the sol. is normally open, so max press. is applied. You wouldn't have a delay but a hard shift. I think your issue is either PCS or pump itself, but don't jump the gun and follow procedure. Good luck.
Honda automatic trans are different than the other makers. Forget Lucas as there's no magic fluid to replace that fixes your car. Diagnosing Honda trans of that year us easier since the solenoids are not inside. I need more information. What happens when you put the shifter in 1st or 2nd gear? Tell us more about the symptoms...Thanks for posting.
Check power and grounds for the TCM module. Also check power and grounds feed to the transmission itself. Since some transes do get their ground from the chassis, check the ground strap at the Eng block. Makes sense?
pressure regulator solonoid can also partly short to ground caused bij transmission wear particles getting in between the metal body of the solonoid and the coil casing. on frontera it triggers P1625 low voltage or open circuit, and can be intermittend by switching ignition multiple times ! since 12 volt is permanent on the solonoid, the same powerline as all the other solonoids, controlled bij switched negative from the computer unit, setting and stopping the power sometimes moves internal metal particles by magnetising the coil. however the problem and gearbox error light keeps coming up and the car goes in limp mode. only solution , pull front pan (the small one) and replace (or try and fix the old one, its broken anyway) the pressure solonoid. dealership will try to set you back a lot of cash for new transmission, wich off course will fix the problem, or sell you a new computer because mostly they think it's an internal error of the computer, this is NOT TRUE ! in my case I had the computer send out and checked, found out that interfering the power to solonoid contact caused the problem to disappear for a while, soldered a by-pass switch on the computer 54 (ignition) to 53 ( solonoid power), bij pressing it a couple of times with ignition on, then switch ignition off and back on again, the error went for the coming ride mostly. after some time that didn't work anymore, so I checked all the wires in between, nothing wrong there except an odd measurement to ground on the power feeding line to the solonoids, and a varying ohms value, that should not occur on a 12volts power source. eventually I fount the pressure solonoid causing it, as soon as I plugged the front connector on the trans it gave some continuity between positive and case ground. so pulled the pan, and the pressure solonoid, opened it up by bending back the edge, found quite some metal particles in there, like the normal bit on the magnet in the big pan, cleaned the thing and put it back together and back in the gearbox. continuity as well as geaerbox error are gone now. its that simple ! and a solonoid costs only about $30 bucks ! however don't forget to buy some gearbox oil (dexron ||| ) at least 2 litres as there will be about that coming out. best offcourse, is to change all the oil while you're at it.
I've got a 300zx 1984 when I let off the Gas I meet with the it gos in to free weeling it don't shiffer in till it's at 4grand I can start it up in park and it wants to move it wants to go forward in every year and no rev
Transmission is stuck on 3rd gear. I did a DTC computer analysis and I got this code : P0748 : Pressure control solenoid valve (Vfs) 'A' Electrical. I have removed the valve body and tested the resistance of the PCS and it was 3.6 ohm. I have connected 9V battery to the PCS but the plunger didn't move. Does that mean its faulty? Specs: car is Hyunday Accent 2012, 4-speed transmission type A4CF1 and 1.4L 4-cyl engine
OK but it seems we are discussing 2 different things. First of all YOUR video says these switches can't be ohm tested because of their very low ohm reading. I stand by my belief that if you run a line pressure test on the vehicle at operating temp. and it passes the solenoid is good. Now this tells us what? The wiring is good. The PCS is good, the windings are good, the valve body and pump is good. Now if we still have a problem at least we know what IS NOT the problem.
I have a '95 Mitsubishi GTO (same as 3000GT) with an AWD ATX. Well, After replacing the transmission fluid, filter and main seal, due to a very slow leak, the car started behaving very strange. It would sometimes churp the tires when I try to get off the line quickly immediately after a sudden stop. Also, it would drop the RPMs suddenly and try to stall the engine when letting off the gas and reaching low speeds about 25mph or less (going around a round about).
If stuck in 2nd gear, then it's limp-in mode. TCM saw a discrepancy issue and set LIM. Erase codes and reset adaptive memory. Let me know if that helps.
@ADPTraining CONTINUED: Second, if tranny shifts fine and smooth it is surely an electronic fault. If tranny is not shifting properly and ISS OSS checks out fine, then you have a mechanical issue. Post more with further details so that we can uncover the issue. Good luck.
I don't what you mean by induction system. But anyhow, there are many things that can cause it. Replacing the trans fluid after it's due date can cause lots of issues due to viscosity changes. In all my years working on cars If I knew that the owner was late on it I would discourage him from replacing the fluid. The issue may also be on the AWD system. I really have mo more info to go by. Are there codes present?
I replaced some parts from the air intake system first, because I thought that the problem was there, but it seems as if the problem is in the transmission. There are no codes or warning lights...
I have to hit the gas, in order to keep it from shutting down. So far it has shut off twice since I had the music loud and didn't hear the engine. When this happens, I could hear a whining noise coming from under the hood as if something there is struggling. If I don't hit the gas at that moment, the car feels as if I am applying the brakes or something is stopping it. Furthermore, the car would surge ocasionally when accelerating from a slow roll between 2-3K RPM. Slow leak is observed again.
Cont... You may want to apply 12 volts directly, but IN A PULSATING WAY and see if PCS clicks. Don't leave 12v on or you'll damage the unit. See how that goes. Good luck...
I'm getting a PO741 code on a '05 Toyota Corolla. 1) To access the trans lockup solenoid, is draining the ATF required? I am ready to change the ATF and filter and clean the magnets as a first step to see if the code changes, but I don't want to have to do it twice. 2) I've read that some people just ignore the code and accept lower gas milage for a while. Is this okay? Thank you!
From what I understand, the shop wants to replace the TCM or trans computer. THere are many steps to condemning any computer module, so all I can say is that it is the worse case scenario. Make sure the shop is reputable and hold them to it if it doesn't work.
I find it amazing that no mechanic can fix your issue. We badly need proper training for the traditional trades. OK, 758 tells you that there's a general error. Here are the possibilities: Hydraulic pump, pressure sensor defective, or PCS (solenoid). 1st you need to take a manual pressure reading and if PRESS ok, then no rebuilding is necessary, otherwise replace pump. CONTINUED 1
NEED help I have this honda accord 94 automatic. At first it runs smoothly but after 10 to 15 mins. it dont' move forward. I'm having problem with the transmission even how hard i step on the gas my car wont move its like the gear is on park. I let it cool for 3mins and it start moving again moving but very slow. Do I need to change the transmission . Well I'm from Philippines and I cannot find Lucas oil. in here . I already change the fluid and still the same problem.
04 Camry with p0776 code swapped out trans n still have code with new one . ..jerks wen I accelerate from a stop n den after drives fine jus after I accelerate from stops
I have a 2005 grand Cherokee 5.7. I first received the P0700 code with a lot of other various codes which came from the bad battery (low voltage codes). Also came up was the code for speed sensors input and then the P0934 code for oil line pressure sensor. I replaced all but just a couple days later the engine light came back on and the codes were the 0700 & 0934 again. Your video makes me think I have a similar problem but not too sure. It's so difficult it seems because the transmission is all electrical. I wonder if I have a bad solenoid under the pan area?
I hope you used the correct gear oil for Honda CVTs. Well start by scanning the transmission or engine for codes. Otherwise I have nothing to go by. Makes sense?
Hi, I have a Saab 9-5 2010, I have a problem with a errors P0778 and P0966. The errors refer to a problem with solenoid B. We are replace the solenoid and we check all installation cable and everything was correct but it again repeated the mistakes after a short time. Du you have any idea what we should check next or what could be really mistake? thanks in advance...
Ok, like most shift solenoids, you should have steady power and the TCM grounds the pressure sol. to effect the pressure control. So, disconnect the TCM connector (TCM=Transmission Computer) and with power applied to the PCS, ground the pulsed side of the PCS. Listen carefully for a clicking sound. Also, check the TPS which is a main shifting input to the TCM. and you may check the following. - Low transmission fluid level- Dirty transmission fluid- Faulty line pressure solenoid 'B' valve- Line pressure solenoid 'B' valve harness is open or shorted- Line pressure solenoid 'B' valve circuit poor electrical connection Here are some of our products that may help you. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/TransDoctor_Auto_Transmission_Software.html sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/instant/automotivetransmissiontroubleshooter
That's impossible for me to know. What I don't get is that it seems you're dealing directly with a Honda dealership, why can't they fix it? With the factory scanner you can do and command all sorts of scenarios with your Honda and quickly see the problem. I'm a bit perplexed.
GM uses amps to control the EPC Ford uses variable ground signal to control it. So an amp clamp wont work on Fords. If the windings are shorted to ground it will fail the ohm test. If you still insist I am wrong you need to call ATRA, ATSG and other transmission tech lines and tell them they are wrong. I have ohm tested hundreds of these and might have had 10 in 25 years need replacing because of an issue that occurred only when the EPC was hot.
Please explain yourself, somewhere in there what you're saying makes sense. I'd rather you clarify your comment for my viewer, that way we can all benefit...
I'm getting a P0775 code on a Ford, In Drive I can feel it switching from 1st to 2nd seemingly when its supposed to, but it doesn't appear to be switching from 2nd to 3rd, the code says "Pressure Control Solenoid B", which I'm thinking is associated with it not going into 3rd. Any suggestions? I'm not sure if I can swap out the bad solenoid or if I have to replace a pack. Also this not going into 3rd is a problem, Cannot go very long distances and have to take secondary roads to avoid faster traffic.
Good video ! But a i have a question. I have a mazda protege 2002 sedan automatic transmission. On the mornings if i dont let the car heat up around 10 to 15 minutes when i put the drive shift it slip. I get a code and i have the p1250 which is for the pcs D what thoes that means ?
i have a 92 dodge dakota 4x4 with a 318 driving the other day stoped and went to go and it was like it wasnt in gear shut it off for a while started up and only drives for short distances now and does it all over again and ideas? i have been told many different things just trying to get some more ideas
I have a 2003 Chevy trailblazer and my problem is when I first crank it up it will go in reverse and drive but after a few times of moving the vehicle it stops going into any gears at all. I changed the filter and put new gasket on and 5 quarts of fluid back in and still same problem. What am I missing? Help me please!
So lower voltage higher pressure?? Or lower voltage lower pressure?? Need to know for a project how exactly the tcm and pcs are functioning according to environmental inputs
I have a 2000 Montana van that is occasionally up-shifting hard and has a whining noise when that's occurring. Some people say that it's a trans pressure control solenoid. Is that a common problem on that GM vehicle?
I have a 96 dodge dakota with a 42 re trans.I was having a very rough shift from first to second and was informed that it might be my shift solenoid so I changed it and the sensor put it back together but know it wont shift out of first at all,so I took it apart again to check and make sure my connection were tight, that i had power and ground to the sensor and solenoid which I do,buttoned it up and still no upshift,need your expert advice on this one.
You need to be more descriptive. I am not a psychic. I need year make and model and engine size, PLUS the DTC or code present PXXXX. We always answer all our calls.
I have a 2009 ford mustang that has a p0966 and p0193 codes. Changed the fuel rail pressure sensor. So was wondering if the other is something to do with my transmission.
my 2003 Acura TL has 2 codes P1750 & P1740 what should I do the car rides fine but the engine light stays on is it just a sensor switch, or do I really need to rebuilt my transmission
I have a 93 chevy 4l60 trans it has 123 no 4th and seems like at times its stuck in 3rd when stoped and excelerating fluid smells burnt what could it be seems to shift better when truck is cold
I have a 2016 Honda Accord V6 Touring that is harsh shifting similar to what you explained in the video. My mechanic did a diagnostic and I managed to note the trouble code A/T clutch pressure control solenoid......My mechanic claims I need a new transmission because the solenoid that has failed is not sold separately from the valve body and the cost of the valve body is very expensive and almost equivalent to buying a new transmission. Can you provide me with any perspectives on this issue? Please and thanks in advance.
I have a Golf 5, 2.0 FSI model 2007, automatic transmission and it is having a gearbox problem, when i am driving sometimes it stuck in gear 3 or 4, when we connect it to the computer it says (P2716 Pressure Control Solenoid D stuck malfunction) and if we clear the error, the car start working normal for some kilos ( 50 to 100 km) then the same problem come again. Do i need to buy a new pressure control solenoid? Thanks!
i do have a 2004 honda accord 4 cyl, 2.4 , engine light is on, code is P0962 pressure control solenoid A control circuit low, where is located this solenoid, inside or outside the transmission?
I have a 2004 acura tl automatic.. bought it 2 months ago....when I bought it, reverse was very slow to engage and it took alot of gas to get it going in reverse. Every other gear was fine and shifting smoothe... when I flushed the fluid he had in there, it was thick and discolored, im guessing it was full of lucas.. once I drained and put good fluid in there, reverse imidiatly came back and it reverses nicely but within a week, 3rd gear started slipping and eventually it stop shifting from 2-3.... Iget a p0848 code for 3rd gear pressure switch even after Ive replaced the pressure switch. ...any idea?
What are the chances that these problems could be somehow connected to the PCS? Or is it time for a new transmission? There is no grinding, rattling or hard shifting that I observe. There is some hessitation when accelerating very slowly between what I think is 1st & 2nd gear shift. When I launch the car hard from a stop, everything seems to work perfectly. I am completely lost as I have replaced most of the induction system...
I was getting P0751 selenoid A code. I replaced new selenoid A and I'm still getting the code and it did not fixed the problem. Any ideas what the problem could be?
+Jeff Dean If you want to learn more, here's a good series that allows you to build your own repair equipment. Enjoy.... www.createspace.com/pub/simplesitesearch.search.do?sitesearch_query=make+your+own+diagnostic+mandy+concepcion&sitesearch_type=STORE
Lol. They are actually a lot easier. Diagnostics help you weed out a problem very quickly, and the engines/trans are way more efficient when electronically controlled. thats why an old 70's truck gets 8 mpg, but a newer one with pretty much the same engine size gets 17
Josh Denham Electronic diagnostics are easier for a person who has no mechanical aptitude. Listen, I was an AIRCRAFT mechanic for 24 years and I can assure you, I can out diagnose an electronic diagnostic machine both in speed and accuracy. Give me a set of symptoms and I'll tell you instantly what is wrong! You just have to know your machine. If you DON'T well then, yes, electronic diagnostic is your only hope.
0:21 "Do not apply 12V..." 1:30 "Apply power, 12V..." contradiction there? BTW, are thoses solenoid working the same as clutch shift solenoids? (specially interested in 5L40 one)
Is it possible to make your auto transmission shift quicker/faster and reduce or stop gear overlapping on an ect electronically controlled transmission
Can u help regarding this fault code(18228) P1820 pressure control solenoid 'b' control circuit high implausible signal.I recently replaced the clutch, transmission,also this issue occurs while doing clutch adaptation.Audi ccz engine code
Excuse me i have a 1995 Cadillac Seville STS and it threw a code P076 it stands for Transmission pressure Solenoid. Is the Pressure Solenoid the same as a Pressure control solenoid or are they 2 completely different things. i appreciate it if you could get back to me ASAP. Im kinda on a standstill untill i get that response from you?
I have a 2006 Ford Freestyle Limited FWD with a CVT and My wrench light (Limp mode) comes on whenever I come to a complete stop. Auto Zone detected error code P0701. The local auto-mechanic said it was solinoids. Could this help fix my car?
Hi I have rebuilt manuals buut I think I'm going to gain the experience of automatic soon , this ford taurus has 70 k on it no sdlipping just a slight shudder putting it in reversve and the voila , nuthin in any gear . The car has 70 k from my granny so i know its not worn out . Does any one or you sir have any idea what it could be before I swap out whole thing?
@VSLURK3R Thank you so much for the compliments. We ask all our viewers to post and participate to keep this channel free. Thank you.
I've heard of then and spoken to people that use them, but can't comment on them since I have no experience with BD. They do sound like they know what they're doing. Having said that, you may be able to accomplish the same thing by purchasing heavy duty clutches and components and doing the rebuild yourself, if you're up to it and know what to do. I was rebuilding my own trans at age 16 without any experience whatsoever and managed to do it. SO go for it...Thanks for posting.
All is well in dodge land,Erased codes and reset memory and nothing,no up shift,replaced the replacment solenoid and all is well,bad parts can really keep you humble,Thanks for responding.
Yes, most YM 2000 and up are dealer tool dependent. Having said that, lots of Aftermarket scanners also have this capability now. By the way, resurfacing a trans valve body isn't easy. Most shops just replace the whole thing with a new one at a higher cost to you of course. If warped you'll need to resurface the valve body on a milling machine or the old fashioned way, use a 2'X4' mirror and glue sandpaper to it then run the VB to resurface. Old trick I learned a while back. Good luck.
Wow, the new solenoid was also defective... Yes, I've seen it before, but it's a bummer. That's why it pays to buy OEM solenoids, they may also fail (when new) but it's rare. That's for posting back my friend...Good for you.
CONTINUED FROM 1:
Check fluid level and quality, add if needed, don't replace fluid, a burnt clutch pack, stripped overdrive clutch hub, worn accumulators, worn valving especially the actuator feed limit valve, and just high mileage can all cause this code.
Basically, the ECM is seeing a long engagement or like I said a slipping. Again, check fluid level and add if needed. Post back with more and let us know what happens...Thanks for posting.
ADPTraining I have a 99 Chevy Silverado, I had a small accidents that damage my radiators and cooling systems, after the repairs where done my truck drove about 100 miles fine and then start losing pressure transmission would go over 50 took it back to the mechanic "Said need it a flush " after that was done I drove it again another 30 miles and then transmission wouldn't engage at all , called him back and said transmission was bad , I waited 40 minutes for the wreck truck and while waiting I decided to tried to move it to get out of the way, to my surprise transmission worked just fine for another 5 miles till oil gets hot , and is been like that , any suggestions? Thank you.
That's usually what happens. The issue is either the PCS, which controls the pressure or an issue with the valve body. Sometimes, one of the valves has to be honed it due to damage. Once a shop open the trans, they'll want to do a rebuilt, due to liability issues and you coming back afterwards with another trans issue. If you're planning on doing the work yourself, then fine. How many miles on you car?
I agree, modern consumers should get educated and learn as much about the system as possible. Yes, often times a $100 part is all you need. But, there are good repair shops out there. It is also a risky situation. If you do replace the PCS and the transmission goes a few months later, the shop gets blamed. Any court of law will fault the repair shop first, regardless of what they did. Education and knowledge are the consumer's best choice...Thanks for posting...
@surfmusicjamweedgirl OK, use this rationale: If when dismantling the Trans oil pan you have access to the PCS, then don't change it (assuming it's ok). PCS units are the strongest of the all transmission solenoids. They have to be. But, if getting to it requires major disassembly, then replace it. 4L80Es are strong units, but you do have almost 300K, so tread carefully. Good luck...Mandy.
@PatinOmaha These PC sol. are tough units. If possible disable by removing fuse (if separate). The noise does seem a bit problematic. A faulty PC sol. would not cause a noise.
Other possible fault areas are the TPS and VSS (vehicle speed sensor). The TPS is a main shift input to the TCM. VSS is the main speed input and also a main shift point determinator. Good luck to you. Mandy.
Chances are the trans is gone. Brown fluid is a sign of extreme transmission neglect. Do spend money doing a fluid change. If leaking, the pump gasket is probably gone and hence a PCS code, but code related to system not necessarily solenoid. If you've ever done a trans, then remove, disassemble pump and replace entire pump with gasket. Remember, you may end up doing all the work for nothing, since the rest of trans may also need repair. Shake is caused by friction slipping at the wet clutches.
Yes, it's possible. But also understand that if the PCS looses power or ground it stays fully open and delivers the maximum amount of pressure. So look into this area (POWER and GROUNDS). Hope that helps...
Oh wow, yes the trans has outlived itself many times over. Not that many transmissions last that long. There's no reason a car can't last forever, unless the chassis rusts out completely. Being that you're n school and on budget, I would suggest a used trans from the salvage yard, so long as the repair shop warranties it. It is not the way to go if you're keeping the car forever, but may work out even better than a total rebuilt. Good luck and thanks for posting.
@SunsetNap YES it can. The NSF tell the TCM which gear it should be on. There's a varying voltage that goes to the TCM (Trans Computer). It's not a simple on and off switch indicating Neutral and Park. On most systems the TCM then broadcasts the gear position via the vehicle network for the dash to show the shifter position.
I was asked to clarify my earlier comment. In the video it says many of these solenoids cannot be checked with an ohm meter. GM 4L60E will ohm at about 4.5 to 5 ohms. Of course you must have a good volt ohm meter or DVOM as we call them. Meaning digital volt ohm meter. Ford Motor Co. 4R100 or E4OD will also Ohm test in the same range as the GM solenoid. An ohm test will only confirm that the electrical part of the solenoid is good. A pressure test is required to test the mechanical part.
The issueis is there is no internal transmission fluid filter. The clutch material that wears gets into the pump, valve body, and converter, which is why you have the fault codes. Most of the time a trans needs rebuild. Acura extended the warranty on the transmission, which is included, contact Acura of America customer service. Look up Service Bulletin 02-027. Sorry for the bad news.
I appreciate your compliments. We also have two new channels: "GDI Gasoline Direct Injection" and "Automotive Relay Circuits Explained". They're both very instructive videos and free for all. Thanks for posting.
@Kintosol89 Hi, ok the Press. Cont. Sol. circuit low means gone to ground. You may not have a solenoid fault. This is how it works: A relay provides power feed. The ECM grounds the solenoid. If no power is seen at the other side of the relay, then you get a "Circuit Low" code. You need to pull out wiring diagram. Alldata information systems have DIY accounts for one car, one model only. Check it out. Probe and make sure you have power feed to the solenoids. Post back with more...
Hello. Thank you for the excellent video. One question though, won't a restricted line pressure solenoid valve affect all shifts?
If a shift into any gear other than reverse and forward engagements takes longer than 0.65 seconds to complete, code P1811 will set. The ECM will then command maximum line pressure inside of the transmission, resulting in harsh shifting.
ECM will also command the check engine light light to be illuminated when P1811 is set. Basically, the PCM is sensing a slip, and is increasing line pressure to maximum in order to prevent the transmission from hurting itself further.
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OK, the fact that the voltage starts at 3 and drops to 1 says that as the PCS gets hotter, resistance drops, hence 1 volts seen at the end. One volt is kind of high, meaning that there's excessive resistance at the PCS windings. Having said that, compare by measuring resistance, with solenoid hot. These units normally carry very low resistance. Or almost like a straight through wire. Your PCS doesn't seem shorted, which is more common.
I don't have to call anyone. All electrical circuits need current to operate. A current test using the clamp-on AMP probe will always give you the most definitive results. Forget Ford uses this, GM uses that...none of it maters. ALL CIRCUITS run on CURRENT flow. A resistance test is fine, but it's a static test. It'll pass when the component is cold, but fail when hot. It is the nature of all coil windings. You can research what I'm trying to tech you or take on faith value. Thanks again.
You can gain a lot of insight on the problem by referring to the OBD-2 code. These are either Circuit-Fault, or Mechanical in nature, also circuit low or high. Look up the exact definition for the code. Good luck.
Sure let me get that info out to you tomorrow..based on your advice here I checked the transmission fluid level and it was right at the line where it says to add oil. The car is a 2001 Aztek. the Code is 1810
Sounds like a linkage issue. Look into the shift lever to transmission linkage. If trans is defective it won't go int gear no matter what, even if you push it. Do some visual inspection on the shifter and post back with more.
I need to know which code was it exactly. There are a few codes for the PCS. Yes, you can replace the PCS. It is a solenoid and shops don't just replace it because if something else on the trans goes a few months after, they don't want to get blamed. Some dis assembly will be required on your part. Post back with more...Mandy...
Hello, well we have a few software products. I'll assume you're referring to the Scan-1. Try our site autodiagnosticsandpublishing or do a Google for Scan 1. If that's not what you're looking for let me know...
Thanks for the great video, but I would want to know that, if we can see the PCS as the Actuators of the automatic transmissions? They look like they have the same missions in the A/T.
The TCC has nothing to do with it. Any car can run without TCC. It's only active at higher speeds to lock the engine and transmission together, as in a regular clutch. See if you can manually shift to 3rd gear.
Depending on the year, but chances are yes. The NSS or trans-range switch is used by the ECM to compare to the gear pressure switches that tell the ECM the actual gear the trans is in. Did that made sense? Thanks for posting.
No, an Ohm test will not tell you if the part is good. Often times the shift solenoid fails when hot and it fails due to shorted windings. By and and large the best way to test a SS is by doing a current rampping test. This you do using a clamp-on AMP probe and scope.
You need the manual for component location or any other software. Otherwise pay a one time fee at Alldata for your specific car only, which is cheap and full of information.
@PatinOmaha Disconnect the PC sol. and see if there's a difference in shift quality.
man i really wish i watched this before buying 2 transmissions
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2nd, if press ok, prove your pressure sensor (refer to other videos here). 3rd, if sensor proves good then test your pressure control solenoid (again, refer to our other videos).
Beware: in the event the PCS is faulty or with it disconnected the sol. is normally open, so max press. is applied. You wouldn't have a delay but a hard shift. I think your issue is either PCS or pump itself, but don't jump the gun and follow procedure. Good luck.
Good video. Initially you informed that do not test it with 12 volts but you tested it with 12 volts. So, will it not damage the PCS?
Thanks.
Not through a testlight
You need to scan the transmission and post back with some codes. Also, post again with a detailed explanation of what it does. Be precise. Thanks
Honda automatic trans are different than the other makers. Forget Lucas as there's no magic fluid to replace that fixes your car. Diagnosing Honda trans of that year us easier since the solenoids are not inside. I need more information. What happens when you put the shifter in 1st or 2nd gear? Tell us more about the symptoms...Thanks for posting.
ADPTraining runs cold quits when hot no gears
You seem to be stuck in limp-in mode, which is normally 2nd gear. Scan and post back with the related DTCs or codes. Thanks...
i am learning a lot on transmissions from this channel, thanks for all the info :-)
Check power and grounds for the TCM module. Also check power and grounds feed to the transmission itself. Since some transes do get their ground from the chassis, check the ground strap at the Eng block. Makes sense?
pressure regulator solonoid can also partly short to ground caused bij transmission wear particles getting in between the metal body of the solonoid and the coil casing.
on frontera it triggers P1625 low voltage or open circuit, and can be intermittend by switching ignition multiple times !
since 12 volt is permanent on the solonoid, the same powerline as all the other solonoids, controlled bij switched negative from the computer unit, setting and stopping the power sometimes moves internal metal particles by magnetising the coil.
however the problem and gearbox error light keeps coming up and the car goes in limp mode.
only solution , pull front pan (the small one) and replace (or try and fix the old one, its broken anyway) the pressure solonoid.
dealership will try to set you back a lot of cash for new transmission, wich off course will fix the problem, or sell you a new computer because mostly they think it's an internal error of the computer, this is NOT TRUE !
in my case I had the computer send out and checked, found out that interfering the power to solonoid contact caused the problem to disappear for a while, soldered a by-pass switch on the computer 54 (ignition) to 53 ( solonoid power), bij pressing it a couple of times with ignition on, then switch ignition off and back on again, the error went for the coming ride mostly.
after some time that didn't work anymore, so I checked all the wires in between, nothing wrong there except an odd measurement to ground on the power feeding line to the solonoids, and a varying ohms value, that should not occur on a 12volts power source. eventually I fount the pressure solonoid causing it, as soon as I plugged the front connector on the trans it gave some continuity between positive and case ground.
so pulled the pan, and the pressure solonoid, opened it up by bending back the edge, found quite some metal particles in there, like the normal bit on the magnet in the big pan, cleaned the thing and put it back together and back in the gearbox. continuity as well as geaerbox error are gone now.
its that simple ! and a solonoid costs only about $30 bucks ! however don't forget to buy some gearbox oil (dexron ||| ) at least 2 litres as there will be about that coming out.
best offcourse, is to change all the oil while you're at it.
marzon tijneveld Thank you so much for this detailed information. We appreciate that quite a bit. Helping others is a noble thing.
I've got a 300zx 1984 when I let off the Gas I meet with the it gos in to free weeling it don't shiffer in till it's at 4grand I can start it up in park and it wants to move it wants to go forward in every year and no rev
... 1994 Honda Accord the shifting cable for high and low when you're going how do you adjust it
Depends on the year make and model of your car.
Transmission is stuck on 3rd gear. I did a DTC computer analysis and I got this code : P0748 : Pressure control solenoid valve (Vfs) 'A' Electrical.
I have removed the valve body and tested the resistance of the PCS and it was 3.6 ohm. I have connected 9V battery to the PCS but the plunger didn't move. Does that mean its faulty?
Specs: car is Hyunday Accent 2012, 4-speed transmission type A4CF1 and 1.4L 4-cyl engine
OK but it seems we are discussing 2 different things. First of all YOUR video says these switches can't be ohm tested because of their very low ohm reading. I stand by my belief that if you run a line pressure test on the vehicle at operating temp. and it passes the solenoid is good. Now this tells us what? The wiring is good. The PCS is good, the windings are good, the valve body and pump is good. Now if we still have a problem at least we know what IS NOT the problem.
I have a '95 Mitsubishi GTO (same as 3000GT) with an AWD ATX. Well, After replacing the transmission fluid, filter and main seal, due to a very slow leak, the car started behaving very strange. It would sometimes churp the tires when I try to get off the line quickly immediately after a sudden stop. Also, it would drop the RPMs suddenly and try to stall the engine when letting off the gas and reaching low speeds about 25mph or less (going around a round about).
If stuck in 2nd gear, then it's limp-in mode. TCM saw a discrepancy issue and set LIM. Erase codes and reset adaptive memory. Let me know if that helps.
@ADPTraining CONTINUED:
Second, if tranny shifts fine and smooth it is surely an electronic fault. If tranny is not shifting properly and ISS OSS checks out fine, then you have a mechanical issue.
Post more with further details so that we can uncover the issue. Good luck.
I don't what you mean by induction system. But anyhow, there are many things that can cause it. Replacing the trans fluid after it's due date can cause lots of issues due to viscosity changes. In all my years working on cars If I knew that the owner was late on it I would discourage him from replacing the fluid. The issue may also be on the AWD system. I really have mo more info to go by. Are there codes present?
I replaced some parts from the air intake system first, because I thought that the problem was there, but it seems as if the problem is in the transmission. There are no codes or warning lights...
It might have, remember, reverse sometimes is effected by more than 2 solenoids especially in these later transmissions.
I have to hit the gas, in order to keep it from shutting down. So far it has shut off twice since I had the music loud and didn't hear the engine. When this happens, I could hear a whining noise coming from under the hood as if something there is struggling. If I don't hit the gas at that moment, the car feels as if I am applying the brakes or something is stopping it. Furthermore, the car would surge ocasionally when accelerating from a slow roll between 2-3K RPM. Slow leak is observed again.
Cont...
You may want to apply 12 volts directly, but IN A PULSATING WAY and see if PCS clicks. Don't leave 12v on or you'll damage the unit. See how that goes. Good luck...
I'm getting a PO741 code on a '05 Toyota Corolla.
1) To access the trans lockup solenoid, is draining the ATF required? I am ready to change the ATF and filter and clean the magnets as a first step to see if the code changes, but I don't want to have to do it twice.
2) I've read that some people just ignore the code and accept lower gas milage for a while. Is this okay?
Thank you!
Great. Thanks DONATE: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=F9W5VPHTGWBV6
From what I understand, the shop wants to replace the TCM or trans computer. THere are many steps to condemning any computer module, so all I can say is that it is the worse case scenario. Make sure the shop is reputable and hold them to it if it doesn't work.
In all likelihood your issue is in slipping wet clutches. This is a classical symptom for a worn out transmission.
I find it amazing that no mechanic can fix your issue. We badly need proper training for the traditional trades. OK, 758 tells you that there's a general error. Here are the possibilities: Hydraulic pump, pressure sensor defective, or PCS (solenoid). 1st you need to take a manual pressure reading and if PRESS ok, then no rebuilding is necessary, otherwise replace pump.
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NEED help I have this honda accord 94 automatic. At first it runs smoothly but after 10 to 15 mins. it dont' move forward. I'm having problem with the transmission even how hard i step on the gas my car wont move its like the gear is on park. I let it cool for 3mins and it start moving again moving but very slow. Do I need to change the transmission . Well I'm from Philippines and I cannot find Lucas oil. in here . I already change the fluid and still the same problem.
04 Camry with p0776 code swapped out trans n still have code with new one . ..jerks wen I accelerate from a stop n den after drives fine jus after I accelerate from stops
Ok
I have a 2005 grand Cherokee 5.7. I first received the P0700 code with a lot of other various codes which came from the bad battery (low voltage codes). Also came up was the code for speed sensors input and then the P0934 code for oil line pressure sensor. I replaced all but just a couple days later the engine light came back on and the codes were the 0700 & 0934 again. Your video makes me think I have a similar problem but not too sure. It's so difficult it seems because the transmission is all electrical. I wonder if I have a bad solenoid under the pan area?
I hope you used the correct gear oil for Honda CVTs. Well start by scanning the transmission or engine for codes. Otherwise I have nothing to go by. Makes sense?
Hi, next time post as a brand new post so that I can see it. Yes, these are both the same. Back then they might have called it differently.
Hi, I have a Saab 9-5 2010, I have a problem with a errors P0778 and P0966. The errors refer to a problem with solenoid B. We are replace the solenoid and we check all installation cable and everything was correct but it again repeated the mistakes after a short time. Du you have any idea what we should check next or what could be really mistake? thanks in advance...
Ok, like most shift solenoids, you should have steady power and the TCM grounds the pressure sol. to effect the pressure control. So, disconnect the TCM connector (TCM=Transmission Computer) and with power applied to the PCS, ground the pulsed side of the PCS. Listen carefully for a clicking sound.
Also, check the TPS which is a main shifting input to the TCM. and you may check the following.
- Low transmission fluid level- Dirty transmission fluid- Faulty line pressure solenoid 'B' valve- Line pressure solenoid 'B' valve harness is open or shorted- Line pressure solenoid 'B' valve circuit poor electrical connection
Here are some of our products that may help you.
www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/TransDoctor_Auto_Transmission_Software.html
sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/instant/automotivetransmissiontroubleshooter
If it's slipping then the wet clutches are gone. check the transmission fluid before you do anything. Good luck.
That's impossible for me to know. What I don't get is that it seems you're dealing directly with a Honda dealership, why can't they fix it? With the factory scanner you can do and command all sorts of scenarios with your Honda and quickly see the problem. I'm a bit perplexed.
Yes, but I need the code number... Post back with more...
GM uses amps to control the EPC Ford uses variable ground signal to control it. So an amp clamp wont work on Fords. If the windings are shorted to ground it will fail the ohm test. If you still insist I am wrong you need to call ATRA, ATSG and other transmission tech lines and tell them they are wrong. I have ohm tested hundreds of these and might have had 10 in 25 years need replacing because of an issue that occurred only when the EPC was hot.
Please explain yourself, somewhere in there what you're saying makes sense. I'd rather you clarify your comment for my viewer, that way we can all benefit...
I'm getting a P0775 code on a Ford, In Drive I can feel it switching from 1st to 2nd seemingly when its supposed to, but it doesn't appear to be switching from 2nd to 3rd, the code says "Pressure Control Solenoid B", which I'm thinking is associated with it not going into 3rd. Any suggestions? I'm not sure if I can swap out the bad solenoid or if I have to replace a pack.
Also this not going into 3rd is a problem, Cannot go very long distances and have to take secondary roads to avoid faster traffic.
Good video !
But a i have
a question. I have a mazda protege 2002 sedan automatic transmission. On the mornings if i dont let the car heat up around 10 to 15 minutes when i put the drive shift it slip. I get a code and i have the p1250 which is for the pcs D
what thoes that means ?
i have a 92 dodge dakota 4x4 with a 318 driving the other day stoped and went to go and it was like it wasnt in gear shut it off for a while started up and only drives for short distances now and does it all over again and ideas? i have been told many different things just trying to get some more ideas
Those are symptoms of a worn out transmission, typical of loss of pressure. You're probably looking at a rebuild.
I have a 2003 Chevy trailblazer and my problem is when I first crank it up it will go in reverse and drive but after a few times of moving the vehicle it stops going into any gears at all. I changed the filter and put new gasket on and 5 quarts of fluid back in and still same problem. What am I missing? Help me please!
Trans is bad
So lower voltage higher pressure?? Or lower voltage lower pressure?? Need to know for a project how exactly the tcm and pcs are functioning according to environmental inputs
PWM
I have a 2000 Montana van that is occasionally up-shifting hard and has a whining noise when that's occurring. Some people say that it's a trans pressure control solenoid. Is that a common problem on that GM vehicle?
I have a 96 dodge dakota with a 42 re trans.I was having a very rough shift from first to second and was informed that it might be my shift solenoid so I changed it and the sensor put it back together but know it wont shift out of first at all,so I took it apart again to check and make sure my connection were tight, that i had power and ground to the sensor and solenoid which I do,buttoned it up and still no upshift,need your expert advice on this one.
2004 gmc envoy. shift cable broke. replaced it. shortly afterwards it will not go backwards. no reverse. Forward is fine.
Thanks so much. Good luck.
Hello, I have a 2013 Nissan Altima 4 cyl. My code is P0776 (pressure control solenoid B). Where would the solenoid be located? Inside or out? Thanks.
Hello how much was it for you to fix this problem
Inside.
You need to be more descriptive. I am not a psychic. I need year make and model and engine size, PLUS the DTC or code present PXXXX. We always answer all our calls.
I have a 2009 ford mustang that has a p0966 and p0193 codes. Changed the fuel rail pressure sensor. So was wondering if the other is something to do with my transmission.
Yes of course it's transmission. Use t our PWM Controller for trans testing.
autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com
my 2003 Acura TL has 2 codes P1750 & P1740 what should I do the car rides fine but the engine light stays on is it just a sensor switch, or do I really need to rebuilt my transmission
I have a 93 chevy 4l60 trans it has 123 no 4th and seems like at times its stuck in 3rd when stoped and excelerating fluid smells burnt what could it be seems to shift better when truck is cold
Did u find out da problem I have a 2000 4l60e and I just have 1st n 2nd gear it’s not shifting into 3rd n 4th gear n da fluid is dark
Change trans.
How can you tell pressure switch is bad by looking at it when you take it out of the transmission
Nope
2001 Aztek 3.4L V6,
from the scanner:
DTC 0/2
P1810 01/02
P1810 P 02/02
any help is greatly appreciated thank you!!!
I have a 2016 Honda Accord V6 Touring that is harsh shifting similar to what you explained in the video. My mechanic did a diagnostic and I managed to note the trouble code A/T clutch pressure control solenoid......My mechanic claims I need a new transmission because the solenoid that has failed is not sold separately from the valve body and the cost of the valve body is very expensive and almost equivalent to buying a new transmission. Can you provide me with any perspectives on this issue? Please and thanks in advance.
I have a Golf 5, 2.0 FSI model 2007, automatic transmission and it is having a gearbox problem, when i am driving sometimes it stuck in gear 3 or 4, when we connect it to the computer it says (P2716 Pressure Control Solenoid D stuck malfunction) and if we clear the error, the car start working normal for some kilos ( 50 to 100 km) then the same problem come again. Do i need to buy a new pressure control solenoid?
Thanks!
Sackiro Nehale i have some problem....
i do have a 2004 honda accord 4 cyl, 2.4 , engine light is on, code is P0962 pressure control solenoid A control circuit low, where is located this solenoid, inside or outside the transmission?
Honda places it's solenoids outside the transmission.
I have a 2004 acura tl automatic.. bought it 2 months ago....when I bought it, reverse was very slow to engage and it took alot of gas to get it going in reverse. Every other gear was fine and shifting smoothe... when I flushed the fluid he had in there, it was thick and discolored, im guessing it was full of lucas.. once I drained and put good fluid in there, reverse imidiatly came back and it reverses nicely but within a week, 3rd gear started slipping and eventually it stop shifting from 2-3.... Iget a p0848 code for 3rd gear pressure switch even after Ive replaced the pressure switch. ...any idea?
thank so much
gaby salgado ya
What are the chances that these problems could be somehow connected to the PCS? Or is it time for a new transmission? There is no grinding, rattling or hard shifting that I observe. There is some hessitation when accelerating very slowly between what I think is 1st & 2nd gear shift. When I launch the car hard from a stop, everything seems to work perfectly. I am completely lost as I have replaced most of the induction system...
I'd have to road test it to determine where the shake is coming from. THis is almost impossible to do like this over the web.
I was getting P0751 selenoid A code. I replaced new selenoid A and I'm still getting the code and it did not fixed the problem. Any ideas what the problem could be?
What a shame they had to overcomplicate modern vehicles so...
+Jeff Dean Thank big gov for that bro!
+Jeff Dean If you want to learn more, here's a good series that allows you to build your own repair equipment. Enjoy.... www.createspace.com/pub/simplesitesearch.search.do?sitesearch_query=make+your+own+diagnostic+mandy+concepcion&sitesearch_type=STORE
Lol. They are actually a lot easier. Diagnostics help you weed out a problem very quickly, and the engines/trans are way more efficient when electronically controlled. thats why an old 70's truck gets 8 mpg, but a newer one with pretty much the same engine size gets 17
Josh Denham Electronic diagnostics are easier for a person who has no mechanical aptitude. Listen, I was an AIRCRAFT mechanic for 24 years and I can assure you, I can out diagnose an electronic diagnostic machine both in speed and accuracy. Give me a set of symptoms and I'll tell you instantly what is wrong! You just have to know your machine. If you DON'T well then, yes, electronic diagnostic is your only hope.
Jeffrey Dean so if I described my vehicles issues you could tell me what is wrong? :)
Yes, but in my opinion it makes things a lot simpler...
ADPTraining I have a 91 Chev truck k 1500 4x4 with a hard shift from 1to2ed mostly when cold
Absolutely...keep the great video's coming!
0:21 "Do not apply 12V..."
1:30 "Apply power, 12V..." contradiction there?
BTW, are thoses solenoid working the same as clutch shift solenoids? (specially interested in 5L40 one)
Your opinion
Is it possible to make your auto transmission shift quicker/faster and reduce or stop gear overlapping on an ect electronically controlled transmission
I love this where can i get more training
autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
Can u help regarding this fault code(18228) P1820 pressure control solenoid 'b' control circuit high implausible signal.I recently replaced the clutch, transmission,also this issue occurs while doing clutch adaptation.Audi ccz engine code
Excuse me i have a 1995 Cadillac Seville STS and it threw a code P076 it stands for Transmission pressure Solenoid. Is the Pressure Solenoid the same as a Pressure control solenoid or are they 2 completely different things. i appreciate it if you could get back to me ASAP. Im kinda on a standstill untill i get that response from you?
I have a 2006 Ford Freestyle Limited FWD with a CVT and My wrench light (Limp mode) comes on whenever I come to a complete stop. Auto Zone detected error code P0701. The local auto-mechanic said it was solinoids. Could this help fix my car?
Hi I have rebuilt manuals buut I think I'm going to gain the experience of automatic soon , this ford taurus has 70 k on it no sdlipping just a slight shudder putting it in reversve and the voila , nuthin in any gear . The car has 70 k from my granny so i know its not worn out . Does any one or you sir have any idea what it could be before I swap out whole thing?