Building a Helix at Chadwick Model Railway | 114.
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- Опубликовано: 12 авг 2024
- Building a helix with twin tracks on 3rd and 4th radius curves at Chawick Model Railway.
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Хобби
Let this be a clear warning to anyone thinking "how hard can it be?" This hard. Excellent job!
A fair assessment MM. Regards, Charlie
Comfy slippers on - Charlie's back with more amazing engineering for model railways. Makes Fridays worthwhile as always. Thanks Charlie - great to see the helix taking shape.
What a heartwarming comment Ian. Regards Charlie
Nice!! That helix alone would be a big conversation piece for visitors to your layout. Another greatly informative video, sir. Cheers from the States. Stay safe.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Paulville, Grovemont & New Jersey RR. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Very good demonstration. I did not consider a helix in the past, but with a new basement, I need one or two now. Thank you for this great demonstration.
Thanks, Bob, and I do hope the spreadsheets come in handy. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you for sending them my way. Keep up the great videos.
It's amazing all the details involved in building one of these monsters. I'm intrigued by the Powerbase. Over here, we just cut in a couple of "B" units! Seriously, that is a great solution to the problem. Really enjoying this build. Thanks for letting us watch!
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Pat. Regards Charlie
Thank you so much for your channel. My wife watches because your voice is so soothing .
What a strange comment, at least it might send her to sleep and you can get on with some more railway modelling!
I do like you videos. Especially your favourite expression "hopefully that will work". Good to see the helix coming together.
I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting John. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway hopefully that will work...does that make sense? lol keep on keeping on Charlie
Thanks for the tip regarding the Arbiton underlay, that's just the sort of thing I've been looking for !
Be aware that it does dent if you apply pressure.
I love scenic videos like you produce but this is something a bit different and every bit as interesting. Looking forward to the next installment.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Good to see the railway coming together keep up the good work!
Henry
Thanks Henry you’re too kind. Regards Charlie
What a great piece of engineering! Thanks for sharing the experience!
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting, regards Charlie
Great to see the helix come together Charlie.
I love the guys at DCC Train Automation, they are super and very helpful.
All the best
Alex
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Alex, regards Charlie
I never thought I would see the day that this happens, but screws and track on this channel!!
Great video as always, looking forward to seeing it in place!
You make a very good point but I could never risk that track coming off the helix. It would be unforgivable. Regards Charlie
Charlie, that was the most enjoyable, fascinating and compelling video I have watched for a very long time. All your videos are a joy to watch, but this one was something really special.
I'm unlikely to ever have a model railway of my own so I've adopted Chadwick as my virtual layout. Thank you for all your work, wisdom and endless gentle good humour. The internet is better place for your presence.
Wow, thank you. What a heart warming comment Alastair Vize. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Slow and steady, what a job you've taken on there. Beautifully and clearly explained (with your usual good humour).
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Chazzy B. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Thanks for the message explaining the power base. I was wondering how it worked. Great vid Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Clive.
Fully makes sense on your mathematics, I wish I had seen a video like this before I built mine. Great detail and reasons why you are using Power Base (magnets) on up track, looking forward to seeing helix in place..
Thanks Barry, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
what a brilliant interesting upload and what a lot of work....hope your knee appreciates it!!!! great stuff.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it skyfall 23. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Fascinating stuff, Charlie! I hope you’ll be able to show the helix being transported to your home and set up.
It all should be in next week’s video Perry, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
very informative and great video to show the fine details required and possible issues in helix building. Planning and thought is most definitely the key here!! Thankfully I haven't had the need to install one and not sure I would have the stomach to tackle one lol
cheers,
Derek.
Thanks Derek, it really is a drain on your time. It takes a lot more effort than I realise. Regards Charlie
Thank you for a guide through what is a fascinating and devilishly complex list of requirements, for letting us see its complexities and the keen advice you provided too. Always an education on your channel as well; I can't list the confidence I've gained in areas of worry to me on here, just in building a more standard layout m'self. I do hope it all goes back together with less fuss when you re-install it in your own Railway Room. Stay Safe and Keep Well, sir.
What a heartwarming comment Flymo. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Great way to utilise all that normally unused space, good forethought and ingenuity.
Thanks David, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie
What a cool video...never has 31minutes passed so quick. Its going to look so cool when its all done. Here's to the next one. All the best.
Thanks Tim, what a heartwarming comment. Stay safe, regards Charlie
This is an amazing project and very enjoyable to watch an explained very well. Having a double Helix opens up so many running opportunities and I guess continuous running? So there will be double track underneath the mainboard connecting the two and some sort of crossover.
Exactly Iain, but also the storage area for another 20 trains. Regards Charlie
Threaded rod is a sensible choice. US practice seems stuck on using 1x2 "ladders." These are often made in batches with the level-to-level rise uniformly applied. The base legs are then trimmed to create the slope. US practice often uses "door skins" (sheets of either bidirectional or unidirectional plywood meant to face residential panel doors; available cheaply) to cut the entire 360º, which is threaded onto the ladders. Handy part with all that is having a central "man access" to the assembled helix. But, such things are simpler with the sort of manpower a club layout enjoys.
Thanks for the info mate. I've seen a ladder build before, great if you're a carpenter. Regards Charlie
That is a lot of precise work Charlie, feels like a lots of pennies, incredible video. can't wait to see it in situ, good luck.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Bob. I too, am excited about its installation. Regards Charlie
Wow! The helix is impressive part built. So looking forward to seeing it finished and installed. Spot on Charlie.
Thanks Nick, Next week hopefully it will be back in my railway room. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway it looks brilliant. Your knees will be very happy. It will be such a sight to see a full train negotiating a he helixes.
I've gotta say Charlie, this is looking amazing. Can't wait to see it complete and in situ.
Stay tuned Paul, it’s now at home.
@@ChadwickModelRailway . Can't wait to see some trains running along those bad boys. Hope everything is running well.
Yet another great video, have you won the lottery Charlie lol
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Barry.
No but I do hope that one day .....
Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, looking really good. The calculations look complicated but with some time and effort they are ok. Looking forward to the next one.
regards
Gareth
Thanks Gareth, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Well looking good Charley. Kinda of behind I. Viewing lately lol. You could used, think I mentioned it before, cheap bathroom caulking, sticks to the track well and also sticks to metal well. Instead of screws, but end of the day what works for you is great :).
I found building my first layer of the helix is always the pain and time consuming with raising the screws a little, test, lower where required test lol. But once that first run is done successfully I cut a spacer and the rest of the layers went up quick as the spacer just set it Off from my bottom layer. Fun building one though hey :)
It certainly was an interesting challenge Sean. Regards Charlie
FYI, I used that screw method to hold my HO track in my helix and to hold my 45mm gauge track in my backyard. It works in both places! And, my outdoor track is subject to temps from near freezing to 120F. It allows the tracks to expand and contract without any problem. Brilliant!
That was a reassuring comment that is, thank you regards Charlie
Some work that is, Charlie! Brilliant channel, love every episode of it!
You’re too kind GL. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, congratulations on what, to me, appears to be a massive undertaking. In some ways it takes me back to my childhood when putting Meccano pieces together if that make sense. I will continue to follow with great interest the Helix being assembled. Again stay safe Cheers Greg
I’m so pleased I’m keeping you entertained Greg. It is a little bit of a challenge but we will get there in the end. Regards Charlie
Fascinating and very engaging episode! The mind bogles how you get the thing back to your train room...thanks
That’s in the next episode!
Hi Charlie another great video mate great information on binding your helixs I really injoyed it so much I am looking forward to see them on your layout and seeing trains runing on them it will be every interested keep up the great work mate stay safe and well mate goodbye for now Clive
Thanks Clive. Another heartwarming comment mate. Regards Charlie
The helix is coming together, looking forward to seeing it installed in the room.
Me too Chris, regards Charlie
That is quite a piece of engineering! Very impressive.
It’s running pretty sweet too.
Hi Charlie
Great video as always.
Its a different way than what I did when I built my first helix as I done mine from scratch myself, but anyway keep up the great videos always full of useful information
Trevor
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Trevor, regards Charlie
Charlie what an informative and educational video, Top Bloke..
Thanks Colin, you’re too kind, regards Charlie
Nicely done, all very professional looking 👍
Thanks mate.
Wow a lot of (to me) complicated calculations amazing job Charlie can’t wait to see it in place on the layout
You and me both David.
Charlie... get a small round kitchen sponge, put a nut and bolt through the middle of it and then put the bolt in the chuck of your drill... then use it and the drill to wind down all then threaded bar bolts by using the side of the sponge to the side of the nut.. if that makes sense. Stu
Great idea Stu, I'm onto it.
Simple, very simple, but very clever. I love it. 😁👍👌
Not really worth the effort for a couple of nuts but, for a project like this, that wee idea could save 𝐚 𝐥𝐨𝐭 of time and a couple of blisters.
Excellent video Charlie . Love how beautifully the laser cut parts fit together. Very satisfying. For threading all those nuts on you can put a buffing wheel on your trusty Makita and hold it against the nut to spin it on quickly. Probably too late for that advice ...
Yes it is a little late Peter for that advice. However I have of course another Helix to build! Regards Charlie
Looks awesome Charlie....can’t wait to see it in situ.
Thanks Ron,
I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards Charlie
Many years ago I unsuccessfully tried to build a "rabbit" in Z gauge for my youngest twins, and stumbled repeatedly over the gradients. I eventually concluded it was far too much for my limited skillset, (even then it'd been years since I'd done much modelling beyond some first fix on a club layout with the lad between the sets of twins), and gave up...totally...so I thought this might offer my addled mind some explanation for my failings...and it did...but my god you must have a convoluted mind and the patience of a saint!
Thank you for such a clear explanation, and I'm watching this build with fascination!
Dave
What a heartwarming comment Dave. You’re too kind, regards Charlie
Thinking about building a Helix gives me a belly ache. Thanks Charlie. Cheers 🍻 from the good old, but a little off USA.
You know that you really want one Patrick, go on, build it
Excellent film. Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ian.
Great stuff Charlie - I constructed a helix, single track with a gradient of 1:45 and my Hornby HST flies up it with seven coaches! It really is a powerful loco. Some of the steam locos need banking but in general all the diesels cope with it - even my 1970s Lima Westerns!
That’s reassuring DF
A very complex project which obviously requires an understanding of math/geometry but Cad and manufactured curves obviously help not to mention the enormous expense, time and effort. Well done👍
Thanks Charles, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Great progress. Cant wait to see it installed.
Thanks UG. Regards Charlie
DCC Concepts Powerbase works by fitting the supplied magnets to the underside of locomotives. This enhances grip, pulling the loco down onto the track.
Interesting video, I might need to use a helix or two when I get started. Do those magnets interfere with Kaydee couplings?
@@meester5565 no as the magnets are installed under the locomotive, the track base is just steel as far as im aware
@@UndergroundEric Ah thanks that makes sense.
was already asking myself what these matal things are.
Thanks for that explanation! I was wondering why steel under plastic sleepers was going to help anything.
This video is the template to the helix on my layout. Well done :)
Now that is praise indeed SPL, many thanks
@@ChadwickModelRailway You're welcome 😁😎👍👌
As usual a superb show! Thanks mate👍🏻
You’re too kind Mark.
Another keeper video, Charlie, thank you. May use laser cut boards myself - sure is alot easier. I had to Google those steel strips under the tracks as I didn't know what they were.
Thanks Terrence, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Hi. very impressive and informative. You mentioned about the track being level. In real life, tracks are at an angle in curves to compensate the centripetal force of the train and helps also to keep the train not slowing down. In my curves, the first 30cm of curve track is not glued to the track bed, but then for all of the curve length ( except the last 30cm ), i elevate the outer track just 1 to 2 mm from the inner one. It works really fine.
Once I’ve got it home Josef and in place, I can the adjust the super/elevation. Regards Charlie
Evening Charlie. Again another great video. This tutorial on the helix is very interesting. Dave at Dean park used the DDC concepts power base on his layout 👍🏻 If you run a kettle it'll have to be banked 😆 Looking forward to seeing it back at Chadwick in situ 😄 Cheers again for your absolutely fantastic video especially with the classroom bit thrown in for good measure 🤣 You'd of made a great teacher to. Have a nice weekend and see ya until the next exciting episode on Chadwick. Cheers Stevie 😎
Thanks Stevie, what a delightful comment. In fact it’s comments such as yours that make the whole RUclips thing worthwhile. Regards Charlie
Well Charlie, you have got my admiration for tackling this awesome project. I cannot wait to see the next installment.
Thanks Philip, I’ll certainly keep you posted, regards Charlie
Nice one on doing the new project on layout keep posting updates up
I certainly will AR
I have long fantasized running a train around the house above the window frames, bringing it down wherever it was convenient. a Helix would get the train up there!
It must be about time you built it Jerry. Regards Charlie
Great stuff again Charlie. Your video's are superb
Thanks Robin, you’re too kind.
Great Teamwork Gents ! Well that was a really informative video and and on a personal note, the timing of it is brilliant for me having recently got my own helix from James. Great minds think alike Charlie, because I’m also going to use PowerBase from DCC Concepts on the outside loop. I’ve also planned for a third inner loop which will be 009 gauge and reversible so will also have PowerBase. However, there the similarities between our plans end. I’m going to use DCC Concepts track underlay and, as the radius of my loops is greater than third and fourth radius, will be using flexi track (wish me luck !). Thanks James for the tip about the start of the helix rise by creating that flap in the baseboard - a very neat solution ! I was wondering how to achieve a smooth transition from baseboard to helix, now I know ! And good to learn from your lesson about Copydex Charlie, I also use it to stick track down, so may rethink that strategy where the PowerBase will be. And looks like a visit to B&Q (other DIY stores are available 🤣) to buy some more clamps ! Thanks again Gents for your joint production, you really do combine to produce an easy to understand step by step guide and your efforts are much appreciated. Take care.
What an excellent comment Bryan. Good luck with your Helix In do keep in contact should you have any problems. Regards Charlie
great video as always! ive always thought of doing a double helix for easieness sake but hey
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Great update Charlie
Thanks Matthew I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Well impressed!! This could be a way of using all my series 3 and Super 4 curves! However, my first action point is to buy shares in the DIY store; and any company producing M8 threaded rods and nuts. I first thought you could more easily use plastic or steel sleeves on the rod, but then realised the need to make the structure rigid.
And well done on not poking your eyes out on any of those rods....or is the next video from casualty😂? Should you run out of curved rails, I'm sure I have a lot spare!
As always, an excellent video with lots of valuable information.
What a cracking comment in Ian. It’s great to have you onboard and so enthusiastic with the videos that I produce. Take care buddy, regards Charlie
Hey Charlie , that looks incredible 👍👍
Thanks mate, regards charlie
Another great vid Charlie, Just one point though. I'd check for any reaction between the Inox and/or any glues with the flooring foam using a scrap piece of foam. I wouldn't like to see all your hard work be undone !
A good point PP. I shall certainly check it out, regards Charlie
Hey Charlie,loved when you where working in both metric & imperial.........I do exactly the same.......keep up the great work.atb
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Sid.
Great video, Charlie!!
Thanks Dave, regards Charlie
Your first helix is really coming along there Charlie.
I'm still doing the math on mine, more so on the where it starts to where it ends.
Yes, can be a little bit challenging trying to figure it out. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Wow that'll look pretty impressive once it's finished. When I was involved with the old model railway at Sheffield Park on the Bluebell Railway which had a model of Horsted Keynes station it had a 2 turn helix at one end that was built in. There were fiddle yards top and bottom of the helix as well as a single lead junction and facing crossover so it was pretty involved in the days before DCC. I think it went up about a foot so one end was a helix and the other was a single arc that dropped down quite steeply. I do remember my old mainline Jubilee used to struggle up that so it had to be restricted to three coaches anti clockwise. Great fun to operate but it was very temperamental. I do believe it still exists but it's stored in one of the many containers around Horsted Keynes.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it DJ. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, Good to see the helix is progressing, I hope you have checked that you can get it into your railway room once complete as it looks a large construction. Regards, David.
That’s the next video David.
OMG Charlie, I think I might take up golf! Excellent and informative as usual, throughout the video I kept on thinking how the hell are you going to get that back home. I’m sure you have a plan and look forward to the next instalment.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Kevin.
Stay tuned for transportation!
About access, I noted that on many (if not any) professional /public opened layouts, the helixes are hollowed out in the middle to allow an easier access ro the tracks for repair and maintenance. Not forgetting the lighter construction, the quantity of wood saved and a much easier handling when installing and/or eventual moving the whole construction...
Yes you’re right Jin, I have never known whether I’ve made the right choice in having a solid base.
Also access for clearing the hopefully rare derailment.
Another great video Charlie. The build is really coming along nicely. With your switching between imperial and metric units all the time, if you had said then I'd have given you both in the spreadsheet. Two name checks in two weeks eh! I wonder what I can do for you next week :)
A name check Lee, was the least I could do. I remain in your debt. Regards Charlie
That's certainly a major project which requires plenty of skill. My layout wouldn't benefit from a helix and if it did I wouldn't attempt to build one. It's about knowing your limits and for me it's certainly off limits. Hats off to you and a very interesting watch
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting ER.
That is going to be one beast of a structure but should look pretty impressive once installed, think I’ll be sticking to the more simple stuff myself just a little hill with a gentle curve. Not only that, it just wouldn’t fit. As for your gluing session I know all about boring repetitive work, it’s part of my day job.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Rob, regards Charlie
Nice video. Great to see such a full treatment.
When watching the spreadsheet work at 9:00 as you cranked up the revolutions to cover the 18 inches to get the grade down, I became worried as you were not watching the elevation gain per revolution. It’s all nice on paper but in that One revolution you have to get the loco and cars in there by height so the roof doesn’t hit the bottom of the next revolution.
3.27 inches is what you computer. That’s going to be a very tight squeeze for OO locos. Not running electrics the pantograph issue doesn’t come into play. But you still will want the space to be such that you can get your hand in there to address an issue if needed between the levels.
So my recommendation to folks is to build it to the lowest height that will work for your locos (tallest loco with pantos up if your need that) and still allow your fingers over the loco so you can pick it up and place it back. That sets the minimum gap per revolution.
The room then likely sets the radius of the circle, of the grip of the loco with what it is pulling and the all of that determines how.far up you will go.
The elevation gain is really a function of the per turn gain needed to reach in and the radius that you can work with.
I think what your comment has highlighted, it’s just the complexity of the whole installation. I do realise there is little clearance within the levels, in fact there is only half an inch between the top of the train and the next bed, but I believe that’s enough. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie..... All looks to be coming together just fine. All the research.parameters etc spot on and explained well. Something worth considering
when finished is to make up a control train.... loco plus a load of rolling stock that can just make it up the helix without wheel slip. Keep this
train as a unit train or take note of it's makeup, throttle setting etc maybe also. First run: Track must be 'virgin' ... clean as possible and shinny. (Track could be washed in your sink maybe as you assemble helix's. [G} ). Reason I pass this on is as you use the up helix performance will change depending on how you clean the track or run your trains. The control train gives you a base to compare performance against later on. You may get a few surprises depending on how you treat your track.
A very interesting point Indigo. Many thanks, regards Charlie
This video introduced me to the Powerbase. There's a section on my club's layout that has has a branchline with about 80 cm of approximately 1/25 gradient. The section is, quite obviously, notoriously bad for steam locomotives. I'll have to see about convincing them to try out the Powerbase.
Do make sure that your steamers have space for the magnets mate.
Another great video Charlie - thank you. It's looking good.
A couple of things I learnt when I built my last layout which incorporated a similar Helix with threaded rods and nuts (albeit Swiss narrow gauge single track). I deliberately incorporated some super elevation (cant) into the track sub-bed (giving me 0.8mm across the 12mm gauge track) I started with the track level, and then worked my way around to get it adjusted correctly, time consuming but straightforward (Trains (no steam locos) run perfectly with a 380mm radius curve and a 4.5% grade)
I also elongated the holes through which the rods pass to reduce the stress in the sub-bed because if you look at the vertical geometry the sub-bed is the long side (hypotenuse) of a right angle triangle. With only a 2% grade and a larger radius the difference is small but not insignificant and you may find that when complete the threaded rods are not be vertical, which of course isn't an issue if they are out of sight. Just my 2p worth but hopefully useful.
Take care and keep safe
john c
Very interesting points John, thank you. Yes I thought of adjusting some cant on the bed which I can do towards the end of the build. Elongated holes is in a good idea and perhaps one we should look into. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Sorry I forgot to mention that with my 4.5% grade I also had to use tapered wooden washers above and below the track sub-bed because when I tightened the nuts above and below they tried to flatten the sub-bed. With a 2% grade this will not be so noticeable but don't over tighten them because the clamping effect will be to flatten the sub-bed.
Great tip mate, thanks.
The helix looks great charlie looks more professional then something you would build in your own home and i am going to guess that the other helix that goes on the other end of the layout is the same? cheers and all the best.
Nicholas.
Yes Nicholas, that is the current plan. Regards Charlie
Charlie - love all the videos, they are most informative and entertaining. Just one small point, here in UK we use square millimeters to describe cable sizes, to save me having to convert every time can you include the square millimeter size of the wires you use.
Hi Andrew, I am also in the UK but when I buy model railway cable sizes they are metric. Such as 16 x 0.2, is 16 strands of 0.2mm cable. Regards Charlie
If you are an obsessive, you *can* still fix the missing nut: *just* unthread the rod through the entire stack from everything below this point (or above, whichever is the shorter distance to have to shift the rod), add the missing hardware, and reverse the process. Granted, it would be tedious, but still possible. With all the other rods, getting one out and back in shouldn't be much of a structural risk.
Thanks O50, I’m pleased that you understand my situation.
Regards Charlie
Haha I'd love to see the bloopers to the math part Charlie 😂😂 I was list through most of it so I have no idea how u managed to say it so quickly without cards 😅 anyway great video and thanks for sharing, KJ
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Kingston Junction Model Railway. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Charlie as much as I appreciate your prowess and professionalism in this venture , I can't share your enthusiasm I'm sorry.
I understand your point John, using a helix is not for everyone and clearly can be problematic. Regards Charlie
Another great vid Charlie
Thanks HJ.
Really informative video, it's given me a few ideas haha!
Thanks Caz, go on, build one too!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm hoping to get my own place in the next couple of years, space for a decent sized layout is quite close to the top of the agenda!
Very nicely done. I love it. My question is if the rise of each round is the same why done we cut a piece of pipe of the high and place it in the rode under each board so turnings the nuts height would be easier.
That’s a fair point SM but should you change your mind a need a less steep rise, you would be snookered.
I have also used DCC Concepts Powerbase and it worked very well for me.
That is good news, it was just a struggle to get it to stick down. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I used UHU glue, seemed to work a treat :D
Great tip, thanks
Morning Charlie,
Looks good but a Steady job eh, look forward to seeing it in action,
Now awaiting transportation Mick.
The one thing I found with the magnets is the reduced ground clearance especially with certain locos. Certainly worth checking with the screws you have used.
Excellent point Richard.
I'd like to see a helix kit with a laser cut raised track guide fixed in the six foot (~4mm mdf). So you can push flexitrack up to the guide on both sides and have neat Curves, without needing to use set track...
I was thinking that 3d printed guides would make laying the track bed and track rather precise and easy. That way flexitrack could be used with minimal issues.
Certainly interesting points gentlemen. And of course the Flexi track will be so much cheaper. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm not sure how much track you need to swap out for it to become economical to buy a 3d printer just for this, but for those doing less popular settings, it's well worth the money.
A band saw and a radius cutting jig. Or a radius jig and a router.
Another great video Charlie, need say no more 👍👍
Thanks Simon I’m so pleased that you found it interesting, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie! Been following you for a long time, and like many of your followers I've been struggling for many weeks with the "to build or not to build a helix" conundrum so your timing here is perfect! Fascinating explanation of the maths and other issues so I'm waiting impatiently for the next episode.
But what intrigues me most is your comment that it's the track that's the most expensive element of this project. Track certainly isn't cheap but surely the helixes themselves cost more? So much fine detail work and materials involved. Maybe they cut you a special deal? ;)
Anyway, keep up the great work.
Cheers,
Peter
I think that you will be quietly surprised Peter once you’ve worked out the cost of the track. Regards Charlie
Charlie Should be given an MBE!
Don’t make me blush.
Another great video Charlie. I've always been curious to know what goes into preparing and building a helix, and by the looks of it, quite a lot. As you know, I'm also an advocate for the inox but I did wonder whether you might encounter adhesion issues for ascending trains. I did notice a bit of traction loss on my inclines after applying the inox. However, you might be alright with the DCC Concepts Power Base installed.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Station Road Model Railway.
The Inox point occurred to me too but only time will tell.
Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Excellent video Charlie, I'm planning to build something similar so this is really useful, I can let you make all the mistakes first, e.g. Copydex + PowerBase, good point well made :).
I have build the Helix in AnyRail to help calculate the slope %, but that spreadsheet looks much easier.
I will be very interested to see how steam locos & your HSTs cope with and without help from DCC Concepts' PowerBase and only putting it on the up helix is inspired and blindingly obvious now that I come to think about it :) Dave
Dave, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Crikey. How cool is that? Your comment on keeping the power track going after exiting the helix, is what I used to say to my learner truck driver trainees when teaching in semi-trailers (artics) “Dont shift gear as the prime mover crests the hill as the load is still climbing and will try to pull you back”.
A great comparison Redbank.
Wow, you've got your work cut out on this project. Never heard of the DCC concepts Power Base but it looks really good. Presumably it means adding magnets to all of your Locos? Very interesting video and I really look forward to seeing the next stage. Thanks.
That’s it Dave, but you only need to add magnets to the locos that struggle.
Regards Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway sorry need to explain what the magnets use for
@@jenniferwhite6089 The magnets are attached to the underside of your locos and are attracted to the Power Base strips thus pulling the loco down onto the track giving it more traction. (think ground effect in F1). Jenny Kirk did a video a couple of months ago and she was able to run a loco upside down using the Power Base system ! Dave